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ROLLO, 

1859 


WALL-STKEET  TO  CASHMERE. 


A  JOURNAL  OF  FIVE  YEAllS 


IN 


ASIA,  AFBICA,  AND  EUROPE; 

COJIPRISIXG 

VISITS,  DUEING  1851,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6, 

TO   THE 

DxlNEMORA  IR0:N"  MINES,  THE  "  SEVEX  CHURCHES," 

PLAIN'S  OF  TROY,  PALMYRA,  JERUSALEM, 

PETRA,  SERIXGAPATAM,  SURAT; 

•WITH 

THE  SCENES  OF  THE  RECENT  MUTINIES  (BENARES,  AGRA,  CAWNPORE, 
LDCKNOW,  DELHI,  ETC.,  ETC.), 


Casljiucre, 


PESHAWUR,  THE  KIIYBER  PASS  TO  AFGHANISTAN,  JAVA, 
CHINA,  AND  MAURITIUS. 

BY 

JOHN    B.   IRELAND. 

WITH  KEAELT  ONE  HUNDEED  ILLUSTEATIOXS,  FROM  SKETCHES  MADE  OX 

THE  SPOT  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


NEW    YORK: 
PUBLISHED  BY  S.  A.  ROLLO  &  CO.,  29  PARK  ROW 

LONDON  ;— SAMPSON  LOW,  SOX  &  CO. 
1850. 


Entered,  nceording  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  tlic  j-ear  1859,  by 

JOHN  B.   IRELAND, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  tlie  United  States  for  the  Southern 

District  of  New  York. 


JoiiM  K.  Tkow,  Printer. 


Mr  Dear  Mother: 

In  dedicating  this  worh  to  you^  I  feel  I  am  only  performing 
a  duty,  and  rendering  iut  a  small  return  for  the  affectionate  anxiety 
and  tenderness  with  which  you  traced  my  journeyings  during  the  long 
years  of  my  ahsence. 

Thinlcing  at  this  time,  tchen  India  has  been  brought  so  near  to  us  hy 
the  melancholy  events  of  the  last  two  years,  that  even  the  hasty  notes  of 
a  traveller  made  on  the  spot,  and  entirely  from  personal  observation, 
about  a  country  hitherto  so  little  hioioi,  would  interest  th-e  public,  and 
perhaps  please  the  reader,  I  have  talcen  the  liberty  of  publishing  that 
portion  of  my  letters  to  you  which  related  to  India,  with  the  briefest 
abstract  of  my  tour  preceding  my  arrival  there,  except  as  to  a  few  places 
which,  being  rarely  visited  or  icritten  about.  I  thought  might  interest. 
The  India  2'>ortion  is  a  literal  transcript  of  my  letters,  as  you  will  see, 
except  an  occasional  relief  from  a  few  brief  dottings;  for,  as  you  kriow, 
most  of  the  letters  were  written  in  the  hurry  of  the  moment,  when  and 
where  the  opportunity  offered  —  in  the  palanquin,  on  my  lap,  bed,  or 
floor,  and  often  when  oppressed  by  heat,  cold,  or  travel. 

Yours  affectionately, 

John  B.  Ireland. 


A  WORD  TO  THE  READER. 


In  this  volume  which  I  present  to  the  public,  I  have  given  a  very 
brief  abstract  (except  as  to  those  places  seldom  visited  or  written 
about)  of  wanderings  in  Europe,  Asia  Minor,  and  Africa,  Avith  a 
literal  transcript  of  tliat  during  my  travels  in  India,  China,  and 
Java,  taken  from  a  continuous  journal  in  letters  to  my  mother, 
during  a  period  of  five  or  six  years  in  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  and 
of  course  reliable  from  the  very  nature  of  the  journal. 

As  my  letters  were  not  even  remotely  intended  for  publication, 
but  strictly  fur  my  fomily,  it  will  account  for  their  every-day 
familiarity  of  style.  Although  repeatedly  solicited  by  civilian 
friends  i:i  India,  to  publish  a  book,  as  they  xclshed  to  see  an  American 
view  of  their  country  and  government,  I  constantly  refused,  as  I 
have  done  to  niy  friends  here  who  wished  to  know  what  I  saw ;  and 
as  I  only  decided  to  publish  the  book  .about  the  first  of  last  January, 
my  prol'essional  engagements  Avould  not  have  allowed  me  to  spend 
any  time  (even  if  so  disposed)  in  belles  lettres  embellishments,  or 
research,  to  mvke  up  a  book;  for  the  .actual  labor  of  revising, 
abstracting,  and  carefully  comparing  the  journal,  much  of  which 
had  never  before  ben  read  by  me,  together  with  the  various  cares 
of  prep  nation  f  tr  the  press,  and  ex.amniing  the  drawings  irom  ray 
sketches  to  asrertnin  if  strictly  accurate — have  alone  crowded  an 
immens'ty  of  labor  in  these  two  months,  as  any  person  familiar 
with  book-writai:^  wi'l  re.adily  see.  And  it  is  only  now,  Avhen 
India  and  its  ad'a'rs  have  assumed  such  a  vast  importance  before 


Vm  A  WORD  TO  THE   READER. 

the  world,  that  I  have  been  induced  to  yield  to  the  repeated 
solicitations  of  friends,  to  give  the  public  my  mite  of  experience 
and  knowledge  of  the  country,  its  people,  customs,  government, 
army,  etc.,  derived  during  eighteen  months  of  pleasure  travel  in 
which  I  visited  every  part  of  India. 

All  the  views  of  places  and  edifices  in  this  book,  were  taken  by 
me  on  the  spots  they  represent,  and  therefore  may  be  relied  upon 
as  strictly  correct.  The  reader  will  doubtless  be  well  satisfied  that 
Mr.  J.  W.  Orr,  who  engraved  the  sketches,  has  added  to  his  well- 
merited  reputation  in  that  department  of  art. 

With  these  few  words  to  the  reader,  I  dismiss  the  work, — of 
course  wishing  it  success, — but  feelmg  very  sure,  that  whatever 
may  be  its  fate,  no  person  who  may  hereafter  follow  my  track,  will 
find  anything  different  from  what  is  represented  as  having  been 
seen  by  me ;  and  if  the  book  should  not  prove  to  be  interesting, 
it  will  at  least  be  found  correct. 

J.  B.  I. 


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CONTENTS. 


EUROPE. 

DENMARK — NORWAY — SWEDEN. 

Copenhagen. — Thorwaldsen. — Colored  "Gent.'" — "  A  breeze." — Christiania. — Early 
Sunrise. — Minde. — Gilley  tlie  Courier. — Gottenburg. — Falls  of  Trall-liattan — Gotha 
Canal — Yankee  Doodle  with  Variations. — Motala  Iron  "Works. — Approach  to 
Stockholm. — Sympathetic  Commissionnaire. — Affecting  Sermon. — Stockholm  Pa- 
laces.— Dalecarlians. — New  Upsala. — Dannemora  Iron  Mines. — Old  Upsala  Uni- 
versity.— Odin's  Horn. — Chamber  of  Deputies 13-29 

RUSSIA. 

Abo. — Revel. — Sweaborg. — Cronstadt. — St.  Petersburg. — Our  Creditable  Diplomats. 
— Peterhofl',  Imperial  Family. — Cadet  Review. — Isaac  Church. — Citadel. — Hermi- 
tage Palace. — Fete  in  Burial  Ground. — Foundling  Hospital,  Palace. — Tzarsko-Celo 
Festival  Days. — Expectant  Review. — Greek  Service. — Road  to  Moscow. — Krem- 
lin and  Old  Church. — Manoeuvres. — Flatboats. — Bazaars. — Seminoff  Monastery. 
— Siberian  Exiles. — Porta  Triumphahs  of  Moscow. — Yellow  Tea. — New  Palace. 
— Grand  Review. — Opening  Letters. — Sterlet 29-51 

The  Solitary  Horseman. — Tula. — Prompt  Russian  Justice. — Musket  Manufactory. — 
Pultowa. — Elizavgrad. — Cavalry  Review. — Odessa. — Grain. — Passport  Vise. — 
Waggon  Trains 51-55 

TURKEY. 

Constantinople. — Golden  Horn. — Kossuth. — Sultan's  Harem. — Bulgurlu. — "  Seven 
Towers." — Confusion. — Sultan's  Palaces. — Dancing  and  Howling  Dervishes. — 
Arbutus. — Modest  Minister. — Sail  to  the  Dardanelles. — Plains  of  Troy.  — Priam's 
Palace. — Democratic  Ablutions. — Xerxes'  Throne. — Ramazan. — Smyrna. — Sport- 
ing Steamer  Captain 55-63 

GREECE. 

Puraeus. — Quarantine. — Athens. — Jnpiter  Olympus. — Old  Ruins. — Mr.  Hill's,  Greek 
Court.— Marathon    by    Moonlight.— Mars    Hill. — Tlirough  Greece. — Daphne.— 


:  CONTENTS. 

Thebes. — Clicronea.— Delphi— Parnassus— Corj'cian  Cave.— Galaxede.— (Edipufl.-— 
Novel  mode  of  Shipping  and  Unshipping  Horses. — Megaspelion,  Mammotli  Tree. — 
Jolly  Priest. — Corinth  — Nemeaii  Cave. — Mj-cenae. — Nauplia. — Temple  of  Escula- 
pius. — jEgina. — Maid  of  Athens. — Acropolis. — Greek  Marriages.. ..,..'..  .63-72 


ASIA. 

ASIA    IIIXOR   AND   PALESTINE. 

Smyrna. — Rhodes. — Cyprus  — BeirCit. — Distinguished  Party. — Dr.  Smith  Translat- 
ing the  Bible. — Camel  Loads. — Porter  Loads. — Unwilling  Purchase. — Roofing  a 
House. — Sidon. — Albany  General — Jonah's  Tomb. — Tyre. — Solomon's  Fountain. 
— Invitation  to  Breakfast. — Scientific  Cooks. — Acre. — Mount  Carmel. — Iliram'g 
Tombs. — Jaffa. — Ascalon. — Fancy  Pocket. — Philistine  Cities. — "  Gaza  the  Strong." 
— Vigilant  Guard. — Dutch  Concert 73-18 


AFRICA. 

EGYPT. 

First  Essay  on  Camels. — Elarish. — Quarantine. — Sheik's  temporary  Tribute. — Inter- 
esting Inquiry  after  our  Fathers. — Hurling  the  Jereed. — Nubian's  Devotion. — 
Bill  of  Health 78-79 

Heliopolis. — Cairo. — Mahommed  Ali's  Mosque. — Asparagus  Bed. — Circumcision. — 
Nile. — Christmas  Dinner. — Thebes. — Esne. — Virtuous  Government. — Battle  of 
New  Orleans  — River  Salutes. — First  Cataract. — New  Use  of  Trowsers. — Second 
Cataract. — "Water  Wheels. — Sketching  under  Difficulties. — Peanut  Merchant. — 
Honors  of  the  Tombs. — Dyspeptic  Countrj'man. — Bastinadoing. — Heads  Shaved. — 
Cairo  Lawyers. — Industrious  Soldiers. — Delectable  Countryman 79-8-4 


ASIA. 

ARABIA. 

Israelites  Crossing  the  Red  Sea. — "Waters  of  Marah. — Blount  Sinai. — Plain  of  tho 
Lawgiving.— Burning  Bush. — Coral. — Akabali — "Olive  Sprig." — Cabinet  Coun- 
cil.— Pctra. — Night  Alarm. — Fine  Facades. — Serious  Accident. — Arab  Alarm. — 
Ploughs. — Quarantine  Amusements 84-94 

PALESTIXE. 

Abraham's  Tomb. — Abel. — Cain. — Terebinth  Tree. — Pools  of  Solomon. — Jews' 
Place  of  "U'ailing. — Dr.  Barclay. — Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. — Jordan  and  the 
Pilgrims. — Tomb  of  Moses. — Swim  in  the  Dead  Sea. — Mar-Saba. — Miserere  Ser- 
vice.— Amiability'  of  the  Greeks. — Latins  and  Armenians. — Crucifixion  Service. — 
Greek   Fire. — Aclunet's   Devotion. — Nabalus. — Gibeon — Nazareth. — Tiberias. — 


CONTENTS.  Xi 

"Cana  of  Galilee." — Jacob's  Bridge. — Damascus. — "Street   called  Straight." — 
Early  Christian  Church.— Baalbec.—BeirCit 94-100 


i  EUROPE. 

FRANCE— SPAIN. 

Rocliefaveur. — Perpignan. — Barcelona. — Valencia. — Malaga. — Granada — Gibraltar. 
— Cadiz. — Seville. —  Cordova — Madrid. — Murillo. — Toledo. — Escurial. — Burgos. 
— Cathedral — Beautiful  Ornament. — Basque  Provinces. — Pau. — Bordeaux. — Nan- 
tes.—Kochelle.—Saumur.—Orieans.—Cliartres 100-103 

SWITZERLAND — GERMANY. 

Paris. — Prince  President. — Geneva. — Odd  Reunion  of  Travellers. — Lucerne. — Con- 
stance.— Execution  of  IIuss. — Munich. — Nuremberg. — Leipsic. — Dresden  Gal- 
leries.— Prague. — Berlin. — Pumpkin  Vino  Borders. — Vienna. — Lintz. — Lobau. — 
Pesth  Reviews. — Danube. — Lovely  Countess. — Accident. — Ismail. — Gj'psies. — 
Shooting  Excursion. — Jolly  Guardiano. — Constantinople  Dogs 103-112 


ASIA. 

ASIA  MINOR. 

Supper  with  a  Bey. — Zebeque's  Frugal  Supper. — Pergamus. — Charming  Greek 
Hostess. — Thyatira. — Chaining  Prisoners. — Aga  Justice. — Sardis. — Tumuli  of  Ly- 
dian  Kings. — Breakfast  with  Sporting  Bey. — Tablet  of  Sesostris. — Ephesus. — 
Robber  Visit. — Robber  Alarm. — Robber  Ransoms. — Smyrna  — Beirut  Theatre — 
Tenting  Solitaire. — Cedars  of  Lebanon. — Bedouin  Alarm. — Missionaries  — Pistol 
Robbery. — Hadj  from  Mecca. — Journey  to  Palmyra. — Tasting  of  Wine. — Palmyra 
Statuary. — Return  from  Palmyra — Downy  Couch. — Roadside  Accommodations. 
— Custom  House  Official — Fanciful  Cawass. — Sicilian  Prince 112-131 

INDIA — BOilBAY   PRESIDENCY. 

Van-Travel. — ^Voyage  to  Bombay. — Aden. — Bombay  Harbor. — Miniature  Hyde 
Park — Kind  "Welcome  to  Bombay. — Native  Winter  Costume. — Dr.  Bruist's. — Arab 
Stables. — Towers  of  Silence. — Railway. — Punkahs. — Caves  of  Elepiianta. — Lord 
Falkland's  Reception — Colonel  Havelock. — Unceremoniously  visiting. — Old  Tombs 
at  Surat. — Former  importance. — Voyage  to  Gogo. — Convalescent  Sick  Officers  — 
Jain. — Temples  at  Polytanna — Boston  Lobsters — Meeting  at  Cairo  to  be  Married. 
— Arab  Horse  Purchase. — Servants  in  India. — Borah's  Consideration — Police 
Sepoys. — American  Press. — Ice  Ships  and  Yankee  Clocks 131-145 

Bassein-Bhang. — Government  Revenue  — Sugar  Cane. — Government  Bungalows  — 
Snakes.— Salsetto. — Rock  Temples — Terrestrial  Neptune. — Willing  Servant. — 
Robber.?.— Hot  Wind.— "  Agra  Mail." — Luxury  of  Baths. — BuUock  Convoy  with 
Grain. — Native  Trickery  in  Cotton. — Horse  Shampooing. — Trimbuc  Sanctity. — 


XU  CONTENTS. 

Patnarclml  Embrace. — "  A  Spill." — Nassack — Action  of  I^jectment. — Cheek  by 
Jowl  Avitli  Bralima. — Mailing  a  Letter. — Devotion  versus  Curiosity. — Antelope. — 
Squatting  at  Ellora. — Hindoo  "  Wake." — Kylas  Rock  Temple. — Indian  Hospita- 
lity.— Aurung/.cbe's  Tomb 145-159 

Dowlatabad  Fortress. — Dinner  Party. — Afl'ectionate  Son. — Guns  and  Pistols.— A 
Palanquin  Journey. — Visit  at  Ajunta. — Cave  Temples. — Tiger  Shooting. — Fa- 
tiguing Da}-. — Missionaries  at  Ahniednuggur. — Dosing  a  Hindoo  Servant. — 
Yoking  Bullocks. — Hindoo  Meals. — Highlander  Sentinel. — Karlee  Caves. — Specu- 
lative Yankee. — Peishwar  of  Mahrattas. — Segur. — Lesson  in  Obedience. — Native 
"Watchman. — Mahabk-shwar. — Holy  Water  Drink. — Elphinstone  Point. — Pro- 
digious Fall  of  Rain. — Journey  to  Satara. — Subsoil  Ploughing. — State  Carriage. — 
Siwargee. — Wag-Nac. — Reversion  of  Satara. — Sutteeism. — Irregular  Cavalry. — 
American  Missionaries. — Expensive  Servant 159-174 

Tiger  Alarm. — Useful  Siwars. — A  Brot'her  Professional. — Midnight  Dinner. — Beeja- 
pore  and  its  Ruins. — Midnight  Alarm. — Immense  Cannon. — Mahommed  Shah's 
Tomb. — A  Wedding  Party. — Quieting  a  Village  Bully. — Fording  the  Chrishna. — 
Game  at  Midnight. — Madame  Sahib's  Salaam. — A  Narrow  Escape. — Belgaum. — 
A  Fog. — A  New  Horse. — Bombay  Mangoes. — Butler's  difficulty  about  Gora- 
wallas. — Flower  Collection. — Misfortunes  in  Moving. — Gentle  Hint. — Portuguese 
Custom  House. — Intelligible  Report. — Portuguese  View  of  America. — Service  in 
Goa. — Monastic  Establishments. — Inquisition. — Luxurious  Desert. — Bookkeeping. 
— Crow  Quill. — Intelligible  Report. — Women  Coolies. — Compulsive  Walk. — A 
Big  Snake. — Midnight  Fandango. — Guide  Book  to  Gussuppa  Falls. — Dialects  of 
Southern  India. — Avalanche  of  Good  Luck — Snake  tliat  was  no  Serpent. — Gus- 
suppa Falls. — Devotion  to  Flora. — Honahwar. — Voyage  to  Calicut. — More  Mag- 
nificent than  Comfortable. — Devout  Servant. — Life  Preserver  Boat 174-203 

MADRAS   PRESIDENCY. 

Calicut  and  People. — Former  Importance. — Native  Want  of  Decency. — Servant 
always  accompanying  to  Dinner. — Droll.  Native  Hat. — Gorgeous  Dress  of  Mine. — 
Warfare  in  the  East  formerly. — Formation  of  East  India  Company. — Political 
Partizans. — Improvements  under  present  Government. — Crossing  Baj-onets. — 
Energy  of  the  Company. — Army. — Effective  Police. — Row  from  Calicut.— Native 
Methodists. — Munchil. — Travel  by  Water. — Pegu  Pony. — Nev/-  Acquaintance. — 
Munchil  Race. — Height  of  Ground. — Cold  Weather 203-2  U 

"Boniflice." — Ootacamund. — Coup  de  Soleil. — Opinion  of  the  Government. — Obsti- 
nate Bullocks. — Luggage  Wet.— Mysore. — Forced  Honors. — Hyder  All's  History. 
—Large  Army  on  small  Scale.— Seringapatam.— Duke  of  Wellington's  DebOt. — 
Credulous  Traveller. — Hyder  All's  Tomb,— Bangalore. — Visit  of  Ceremony. — 
Mess  Dinners. — Exciting  Ride.— Cockney  on  the  Points  of  a  Horse. — Hospitable 
Officer. — Services  in  India.— Indian  Etiquette. — 15th  Hussars— Love  of  Sport. — 
Difficulty  in  Horse-flesh. — Mess  Dinner  Speech.— Musical  Lieutenant.— Hussar 
Manoeuvre.— Liver  Complaint. — Doing  John  Company. — Mid-day  Games.— Col- 
lection of  Seeds. — Monkeys. — Indian  Army. — Tapai  or  Post. — Dinner  at  Col. 
M 's 211-229 

CETLON — INDIAN   OCEAN — CHINA. 

Journey  to  Madras. — ^Hot  Night. — Bachelor  Accommodations.— Sir  Henry  Pct- 
tinger's  Breakflist. — St.  Thomas.— Arsenal. — Profitable  Exchange  — Escape  from  a 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

Blunder. —Seven  Pagodas.— Brahminism. — Bhuddists.— Breakfast. — American  Ice. 
— Missionary  Press  of  Americans. — American  Presses. — Mordecai's  Artillery. — Dr. 
Scudder. — Mi.ssions  in  India. — Catamarans. — Unpleasant  Ship. — Cocoanut  Uses. — 
Columbo. — Unexpected  Visitor. — Japanese  Customs. — Penang. — Mangastines. — 
Singapore. — Pine  Apples. — Lotus. — Hong  Kong. — American  Sailors. — Pirate's 
Offering. — Warm  "Weather. — Hong  Kong  Club. — Sail  to  Canton. — Opium  Ships. — 
Canton  Customs. — A  Queer  Customer. — Hongs. — Population. — Floating  Popula- 
tion.— Yachts. — The  Challenge  Clipper. — Chinese  Shop  Signs. — Exclusiveness  of 
the  Cantonese. — Flagstaff  DifBculty. — Chinese  Coin. — Honan  Temple. .  ..230-254 
Commodore  Perry. — Pocket  Picked. — Tj'ping-Wang's  Eeligion. — North  River 
Sloop. — Executions  in  Canton. — Hospital  and  Infirmary  of  Dr.  Parker.  —  Summer 
Gardens. — French  Jesuits  — American  Ice. — Russian  Steamer. — Chinese  Dinner. — 
Birds'  Nest  Soup. — Salt  Collector. — Interpreters. — Russian  Embassy. — Pekin. — 
Fourth  of  Jul}'. — Canton. — Sensible  Dress  — Young  America  in  Canton  — Inso- 
lence of  the  Chinese. — Notes  given  to  settle  Treaty. — Yankee  Skipper. — Sugges- 
tion for  Surveys. — American  Enterprise. — Sail  to  Macao. — Crusty  Frenchman. — 
Dog  Fancier.— Evening  Visits. — New  Acquaintance. — Dinner  Party. — "Weather- 
wise  Chinaman. — American  Missionary. — Indulging  in  Fine  Arts. — Sketching 
under  Difficulties  — Sail  to  Hong  Kong. — Mr.  Harris. — American  Sail  Boat. — 
Pleasure  Party  to  Karhng. — Chinese  Muster  of  Recruits  — Dinner  at  59tli  Mess. — 
English  Ignorance  of  America. — American  Enterprise. — Voj-age  to  Singapore. — 
Timid  Captain. — Mustering  Ship's  Crews. — Pleasant  Surprise. — Getting  back 
Caste. — Native  Sympathy. — Business  at  Singapore. — Crews  in  Australia. — Con- 
stitutionals.— Col.   M "s  Opinion  of  the  English. — Letters  of  Introduction. — 

Chinese  Fruit  Painter. — New  Dodge  for  a  Card. — Dorian  Fruit. — Lively  Time. — L^n- 
fortunate  Passenger 254-276 

J.WA. 

Voyage  to  Batavia. — Banca  Tin. — Arrival  at  Batavia. — Waterloo  Column. — A  Java 
Currie  Breakfast. — Dutch  Exquisites. — Wanasapee. — American  Energy. — Tiger 
Shot. — Java  Regent  and  Wife.— Kreis.— Hadji.— Gibson's  Affair.— Buffaloes  Fight 
Tigers. — Stylish  Earrings. — Beauty  Adorned. — New  Servant. — Government  Ex- 
tortion.— Geographical  OfiScer. — Vanity. — Volcano. — Frugal  Meal. — Foliage. — 
Residents. — Visit  to  a  Regent. — Stopping  with  a  Regent. — Native  Concert. — Un- 
sophisticated Servant. — Heavy  Stirrups 276-291 

STRAITS — SINGAPORE — BENGAL.  ' 

Haunted  House.— EightJi  Wedding.— Breakdown.— Honorable  Resident. — Native 
Artist. — Rapid  Travelling. — Java  Climate. — Police. — Roads,  how  kept  up. — 
Queer  Pets. — Early  Morning  Costume. — Passengers. — Letters. — Anticipation. — 
Massacre. — American  Steamers. — Nutmeg  Plantation. — Kaiar  Rope. — Japanese 
Porcelain.— Chinese  Undershirt. — Domestic  Anaconda. — Christian  Duty. — Sea 
Weed.— Sweetmeats — Penang  Lawyers. — Practising  Shop. — Tea  Brew. — Ben- 
gal Pilots.— Amiable  Officer. 291-305 

Hoogly  Current.- Suffocating  Nights.— Calcutta  Servant  Experience.— Presenting 
Introduction  Letters  —Sights  in  Calcutta.— Learning  Hindoostanee  —Hindoo  Pro- 
visions.—Fort  William  Shops —Colonel  Low.— Difficulties  at  the  North.— Indian 
Fabrics.— Transit  Coach.— Mint.— New  Zealand  CaterpQlars.- Arab  Stables.— 


XIV  COXTENTS. 

Young  Bengal  — Master's  Caste. — Commerce  of  Calcutta. — Commerce  of  Bombay. 
— Commerce  of  Madras. — Pig  Slicking. — Liver  Complaint  — Official  Pay. — Gallant 
Regiment. — Indian  rrogre.s.iive  J'lmiiire — Missionaiies 305-320 

Barrackporc. — Ciiaudcraiiagore. — Dak  Travelling. — Strong  Bridge. — ICloqucnco. — 
Quiet  Cooly  Train. — Opium. — I'atna. — Native  Vehicle. — Granary. — Lodging-houso- 
— Dinapore. — Owning  up. — Gliazeeporo. — Timid  Landlady. — Paleljotlira. — Din- 
ner with  ihe  Governor.  —  Benares.— Penitential  Travel — Disappointed  Em- 
ployes.—  Di-iinguished  American. — Tiger  Sportsmen. — Native  Devotion. — Be- 
nares.—Ghauts.— Custard  Apples 320-334 

Chunar. — Longlegged  God. — Beautiful  Tomb. — Cholera  in  Benares. — Loci  Kedudon. 

—  BliuddiSt  Confessions  of  Failii. — Kin-Koh.s. — Manufactory. — Beautiful  Dresses. 

—  Higli  Flown  Eastern  Notes. — Benares  College. — Durbar  at  the  Rajah's. — Merze- 
pore  Merclianls. — Allahabad. — Native  Superstition. — American  Missionaries. — 
Cool  Sunnuer  Air. — Missionary  Press. — Cawnporo  Wrongs  Avenged 33-1-3-42 

PUNJAUB. 

Lucknow. — Resident. — Attempted  A.ssassination. — La  Martinicrc. — Promenade  of 
Tigers. — Chectur.s. — Cliarging  a  Mirror. — Choke — Misrule  in  Oude. — Enlisting 
Tn)op.«. — Mutinous  Spirit. — Ilavelock — Neill. — Sir  Ileiirj^  Lawrence. — Merut. — 
14th  Light  Dragoons. — Seidhana. — Mercenary  Lady. — Outrageous  OSicials. — 
Begum  Suniroo. — Quizzical  Gaze. — Umballa. — Missionaries. — Laodiana. — Sikh 
Campaigns — Umntza. — Sacred  Tank. — Cashmere  Shawls. — Sikh  Troops. 343-360 

CASnSIERE. 

Letters  of  Introduction. — Lahore. — Tomb  of  Jehan  Ghir. — Native  Painting. — Sut- 
ledge  Campaign. — Settlement. — Shalimar. — Gardens. — Transplanting  Trees. — Mu- 
sical Fakeer. — Visit  to  the  Jail  — Cattle  Tracker. — Thuggery.— Dower  Settlement. 
— Gunnny-hogard. — Grunth. — Cashmere  Travel.  —  Chenaub.  —  Chillianwallali. — 
Arabian  Night  Scene. — Pedestrianizing. — Jackal  Serenade. — Amiable  Native. — 
Luxurious  Meal. — Cuisine  Instruction. — Musical  Soldiers. — Coup  de  Soleil. — Ras- 
cally Coohes 361-376 

Herd  of  Monkeys — Beautiful  Views. — Ducking. — Fakeer-host. — Deodars. — Moun- 
tain Cro.«sing. — ''Lambing  the  Butler." — ■' Ilumbnggy  Very  Much." — Ilydaspcs. 
— Uri  Suspension  Bridge. — River  Travel — Native  Thanks. — Kashmir — A'estige  of 
Civilization. — House  Hunting. — Neighbors. — Canvas-back  Ducks. — Maharajah's 
Review. — Interview  with  Goolaub  Singii. — Ca-shmere  Tableland. — Mookti  Shah's 
Breakliist. — Ca.^hmere  Shawls.  — LoftN- Mountain  Barrier. — Cashmere  Killing  Beef. 
— Beauties.— Tukht-i-Suliman— Letters  of  Introduction. — Rat-race  Course.  3  7  6-395 

Catching  Fish. — Duck  Siiooling. — Unfortunate  Servants. — Goolaub  Singh's  Wealth. 
— Arbitrary  Laws  and  Ta.xes. — Peppering  a  Man's  Side. — Cashmere  Sold  to 
Slavery. — Runaway  Cooly. — Uncle  Tom. — Hunting  Suit. — Barasingh  Stalking. — 
Faithful  Afghan. — Cashmere  Insolence. — Merry  Christmas  —Santa  Claus. — Koran- 
Pandan  Temple.— Pandan  Dynasty. — Muskdeer — Christmas  Dinner. — Sudden 
Indisposition. — Levying  Coolies  —  Smallpox. — Good  Shooting. — Leojjard  and  Trap. 
— Medical  Practice. — Vacant  Sick  Room. — Receipt  for  Sleeping  Warm. — Doctors' 
Quarrel. — Medical  Faith  — Large  Trees. — Islamabad . .  .395-407 

Game. — Caslnncre  Shawl  Manufacture. — Mi.shad-bagh. — Beautiful  Sunset. — Char- 
Chunar  Island. — Shalimar. — Garden  of  Lalla  Rookli  — Moore's  Poetic  Ii.^lo  and 


COXTENTS.  XY 

my  Matter-of-Fact — New  Year's  Dinner  with  P. — Aralanc'ie. — Bath. — Em- 
broidered Shawls. — Quality  of  Shawls. — Cold  Water  Bathing  — Thibet  People. — 
Profit  of  Maharajah  in  Shawls. — Marriage  to  Sisters-in-Law. — Bearers'  Prayer. — 
Unhappy  Prisoner. — Harriet  Beecher  Stowc,  by  P. — Unicorn. — Xo  Snow  and 
Alarm — Beauty  of  Kashmir. — Bad  Luck  to  Finish  a  House 407^17 

Gunning  Punt. — Gun. — Modest  Boatman's  Daughter. — Unexpected  Cooks. — Twig 

Rope  Bridge. — Piunaway   Coolies. — Wedding   Procession — Stealing  Chickens. — 

\  Disregard   of  Maharajah  — Polyphemus'  Oar. — Indian    Corn. — Familiar  Trees  — 

Murree. — Products   of  Cashmere. — Dafibdils. — Uncomfortable  "Walk. — Curing   a 

Sick  Cooley  — ''Uncle  Tom"  to  the  Thamidar. — Stopping  at  Captain  C 's  — Din- 

h<j  at  87th  Mess. — Col.  B.,  32d  Queen's. — Letters  of  Introduction. — Mail 
Cirt 41 8-127 

Beartrs  lleposing. — Arrival  at  Peshawur. — Appointments. — Banks  Conducive  to 
Deb;. — Captain  and  ilrs.  S. — Ladies'  Health  in  India. — Pig  Sticking. — English 
Slave  Selling  Captain. — English  Sympathy  for  Slavery. — Slaves  in  India. — 
ADrite. — Major  Edwards. — Visit  to  Peshawur. — SnuO'. — Fruit. — Dinner  at  the  9th 
Infty.  KcRS. — KhyberPass. — Afghans. — Troops  on  Guard. — Tamara. — Spearing  an 
Orange.— Artillery  Mess  Dinner. — Colonel  Halifax,  75th  Queen's.  —Earthquake. — 
Birthda}-.— Calculating  Yankee. — "  Chicky." — Private  Houses.  — Antiquity  ot 
Peshawur.— Expected  Trouble. — Cotton  Carpets 427-440 

Getting  a  Gufj-d.— A  Night  in  the  Fort. — Hassan- Abdul. — Troops  Firing  by  Sec- 
tions.— Avemge  Height. — Bucephalus'  Monument. — Throttling  a  Kitmagar. — R»- 
turn  to  Lahore. — Sikh  Swords. — Government  Assistance  to  American  Mis- 
Bionaries. — Cottributions  of  Civil  and  Military. — Only  American  ever  in  Kashmir. 
— General  IlarUn. — ilaking  Ice. — Indian  Precociousne.ss. — Quiet  of  Sikh  Country. 
— Punjaub  Campaign  — New  Prescription. — Pic-Nic. — Murder  of  W. — Echoes. — 
Telegraph.— Stormy  Nights.— Sacred  Hurdwar. — Happy  Butler 441-454 


NORTH-WEST  PR0TIXCE3. 

Pleasant  Ride.— Mr.  Campbell.— Dinner  Party.— Pay  for  Attending  College.— Ex- 
cavating Tubes.— Battlctield  of  Hindoos.— Elephant  Ride.— Holy  Water  Mer- 
chants.— Hurdwar — Fairs  at  Hurdwar. — Tribute  to  E.  I.  Company's  Management. 
—Gratitude  to  Dliooly.— Delhi. — Presenting  Letters. — Palace  Citadel.— Sir  Charles 
Napier's  Suggestion. — Contrast  of  Services. — Old  Charley. — Various  Delhis. — 
Jehanahad— Nadir  Shah.— Monolith — Holding  Bazaar.— Kootub  and  Toolaka- 
bad. — Timid  Dak  Proprietor. — Beresford  and  Family  Murdered 455-460 

Agra. — Presenting  Letters. — Sightseeing  Palace  Citadel. — Sights. — Native  Musi- 
cian.— Amalgamation  —  Secundra.  —  Missionaries.  —  Bhurt  pore. — Futtepore  Se- 
kree  — Muttra. — Goverdund.— Starvation  — Ingenuity  — Kri.shna  and  Milkmaids. 
— Underfastidious. — Eccentric  Banker. — Review. — Battlefield  of  Maharajpore. — 
Presenting  Letter  at  Gwalior. — Gaieties. — Visiting  the  Fortress. — Contingent 
Officers.—"  Homes  in  the  New  World." 466-4S4 

Visit  to  the  Rajah  of  Gwalior.— Topsy  Sung.— Letters  of  Introduction.— Reading 
Service.— Uncertainty  of  Life.— Style  of  Ladies  in  India. — Gates  of  Sumnaut.— 
Taj. — Noor  Mahal— Start  for  Bombay  Again. — Antelopes. — Scrupulous  Brahmin. 
— Jypore  Residency.— Bloomers. — Sights.— Revenue. — Treasure  Escort.— Ajmere. 
— Colonel  Dixon  and  his  Improvements. — Plundering  Rajahs — Revenue. — Nus- 
seerabad.— Chcetore.— Sporting  Acquaintances 4S5-497 


XVI  CONTENTS. 


BOMBAY   rUESIDENCY. 


Oodeypore. — Elegant  Rajali. — Colonel  Lawrence's  Letters. — Game  Preserves. — 
Beautiful  Lake  and  Pavilions. — Choking  Camel  Men. — Escort. — Luxurious  Larder. 
— Justice  to  Village  Authority. — Transport  up  the  Mountain. — Large  Mungoose. — 
Moimt  Aboo. — Famous  Jain  Temples. — Priests. — Experience  in  Afghanistan. — 
Deesa. — Ahmcdabad. — Expensive  Travel. — Cambay. — Suspicious  Funeral  Pile.— 
Sail  to  Surat. — Little  Pauls  and  Virginias. — Parsees  and  Jewelry, — Bombay. — 
Grand  Vizier's  Letters. — Attack  of  Cholera. — Drive  on  the  "Ptcach." -^98 

Easter  Sunday. — Enviable  Kiss. — Parsee  Flight. — Invent  a  Religion. — Cockrrach 
Destruction.  —  Robbery. — One-Eighth  Felicity. — Ciiarming  Passengers. — Frats, 
&c. — Colonel  Neill. — A  Plunge  and  Stars. — Port  St.  Louis. — Mauritiu.s. — Sugar 
Exported. — Fish  Market. — Paul  and  Virginia's  Tomb. — Labors  of  Americaa  Mis- 
sionaries.— India  Government. — Travellers'  Books. — Low  Partisans. — Mil-admi- 
nistration of  Justice.— Fortune. — Villanies 499-417 

Defect  of  Government. — Passage  of  Bill. — Board  of  Control. — Afghan  Wa;. — Scinde 
Conquest. — Commander-in-Chief — Disasters  in  War. — Sale  of  Cashmere. — Effec- 
tive Soldiers  of  India. — Lord  Dalhousie. — Canals  in  India. — Expense  of  Indian 
Government. — Government  of  India. — Annexations. — Races  of  Indii. — Farming. 
— Diseases. — Crimes. — Precious  Stones. — Opium  Revenue. — Dacca  Muslin. — Fila- 
gree.— Sword  Blades. — Cannon. — Ancient  Cities. — Buildings. — Expense  of  Tra- 
vel  417-526 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAOB 

1.  FRONTISPIECE: 

THE  AUTHOB  IK  THE  ASAB  DRESS    HE  WOBE  TO  PALMTBA. 

2.  VIGXETTE: 

A  DELHI  PSINCESS. 

8.  WEDDING  DRESS  AT   SAETEESDALEN, 20 

4.  DESCENT  TO  THE  DANNEMORA  IRON  MINES, 26 

5.  ESCAPE      OF    PETER     THE     GREAT     FEOM     THE    STRELITZES    INTO 

TROITZKA  MONASTERY, 86 

6.  TARANTAS  TRAVELLING, 44 

T.  A  TRAVELLER'S  IDEA  OF   ORDER, 64 

8.  RUINS  OF  PRIAM'S   PALACE,  TROT, 62 

9.  RUINS   OF  THE  TEMPLE  OF  JUPITER  OLYMPUS,   ATHENS,        ...  70 

10.  PLAIN  OF  THE  LAW-GIVING  AND  MT.  SINAI, 76 

11.  CORINTHIAN  TOMBS,  PETRA, 82 

12.  EL  DHIR,   PETRA, 86 

13.  JEWS'  PLACE   OF  WAILING, 92 

11.  OLD   CHURCH   AT  DAMASCUS, 96 

15.  BAALBEC 100 

16.  ALHAMBRA,   GRENADA', 106 

17.  DINNER  AT  THE   BET'S, 110 

18.  PERGAMUS, 114 

19.  THYATIRA, 118 

23.  SARDIS 122 

21.  EPUESUS, 128 

22.  2.3.  TWO  ZEBEQUE8— LEBANON  MULETEER, 182 

24.  CEDARS  OF  LEBANON 186 

25   HADJ  RETURNING  FROM  MECCA, 142 

26.  ENTRANCE  TO  THE   GRAND   COLONNADE,   PALMYRA,        ....  140 

27.  GRAND   COLONNADE, 152 

28.  CAVE  TEMPLE,  ELEPHANTA, 160 

29.  OLD  TOMB   AT  SURAT, 166 

30.  JAIN   TEMPLES  AT   POLYTANNA, 1T2 

81.  PATRIARCHAL  EMBRACE— TRIMBUC. ISO 


XVIU  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAOR 

83.  KVLAS  TKMPLE   AT  ELLORA l-<8 

8a  DOWLATAIJAl)    KOKTRKSS 195 

84.  PAK-KK   STOUE,    TOON  All— ANCIENT  CAVE  CIIIRACTER,   KARLEE,      .  2C3 

85.  KARLEE  CAVE  TEMPLE 2C8 

86.  TOMB   OK   MAIIOMMKDSIIAir,   BEEJAPORE ^10 

8T.  TOMB   OF    IBIIAIIIM    ADIL    i^llMl, 233 

83.  ST.  JOHN'S  CHURCH,  GOA 243 

89.  OUSSUPl'A   FALLS 252 

40.  UYDKR   ALl'S  TOMB,  SERINGAPATAM, 2frl 

41.  SEVEN   PAGODAS,   NEAR  MADRAS, 274 

42.  43.  44.  RAJAH— WIFE— CHINA  BOATWO.MEN, 284 

45.  JAVA   HOrSE 5:93 

46.  47.  48.  WATERING  STREETS   IN  BATAVIA— POST  COACHMAN— SI ND EL- 

LA THE   GUE.VT   CAFFRE  CHIEF, 238 

49.  DAK  TRAVELLING   IN   BENGAL, 810 

60.  BENARES, 323 

01.  CHUNAR   FORTRESS, 330 

62.  CAWNPORE 340 

6a  LUCKSOW, 853 

64.  LAHORE, 863 

65.  APPROACH  TO   CASHMERE, 874 

66.  SHAM-DAM,   MOSQUE, 354 

6T.  KORAN  PANDAN  TEMPLE,  KASHMIR, S94 

63.  CHAE-CHUNAR   ISLAND 4C2 

69.  SHALIMAR   GARDEN,  KASHMIR, 414 

60.  JHELUM   AND   BRIDGE 426 

61.  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE,  URI 436 

C2.  MONUMENT  TO   BUCEPHALUS 444 

63.  ATTOCK 454 

64.  HURDWAR, 4fi6 

65.  DELHI 473 

66.  C7.  SACRED  SIKH    TANK.   UMRITZUR— PALACE,   HALL   OF   AUDIENCE, 

"AND  OH!    IF  THERE   BE   AN   ELYSIUM,"  etc. 490 

63.  69.  PEACOCK  THRONE,   DELHI— INTERIOR  OF  THE  TAJ,   AGRA,     .        .  5J0 

TO.  TAJ,   MAHAL,   AND   AGRA 610 

Tl.  PREPARING  FOR  A  SUTTEE, 516 


FROM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 


Copenhage:n',  June  29,  1851. 

My  Dear  Mother  : — I  am  off  for  Caslimere :  so  good-bye  to 
you,  Wall  street,  briefs,  and  "  Code."  En  j^assant,  stopped  in 
London  to  see  the  opening  of  tbe  Great  Exliibition,  be  presented 
to  the  Queen,  and  gaze  at  the  three  great  notabilities,  "The 
Duke,"  Cardinal  Wiseman,  and  the  hippopotamus.  Then  to 
P.iris  for  a  glimpse  at  the  Prince  President. 

This  morning  steamed  into  Copenhagen,  accompanied  by  a 
friend  from  the  "sunny  South,"  who  is  to  share  the  "roughs 
and  tumbles"  with  me.  I  was  much  amused  at  the  clumsy 
way  we  came  into  dock,  a  matter  so  skilfully  done  by  our 
captains. 

To-day  our  steamer  acquaintances  and  we  (a  designation  I 
shall  always  hereafter  give  to  express  my  friend  and  self)  formed 
a  large  party  for  sight-seeing.  Started  under  convoy  of  a  huge 
negro  guide,  a  freed  or  escaped  slave  from  the  West  Indies,  who 
was  a  fund  of  amusement  for  the  party,  with  his  exaggerated 
style  of  dress,  and  assumption  of  "  easy  assurance,"  dignity,  and 
information,  for  me  especially,  from  the  patronizing  condescen- 
sion he  was  constantly  displaying  to  my  little  Southern  friend. 
Our  party  was  a  strange  medley — a  German,  a  Finlander,  an 
Englishman,  my  friend,  and  self  With  our  patronizing  guide, 
we  felt  like  a  lot  of  school-boys  on  a  holiday  excursion. 


14  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Our  first  pause,  at  the  Eosenburg  Palace,  wliere  the  kings  of 
Denmark  formerly  resided,  but  now  only  a  show  palace — a 
curious  looking  brick  affair,  said  to  have  been  planned  by  Inigo 
Jones.  It  contains  many  objects  of  curiosity,  the  royal  armory 
and  some  old  china,  among  it  the  first  porcelain  ever  brought  to 
Denmark,  which  the  king,  fearful  of  its  breaking,  from  its  trans- 
lucency,  had  lined  with  silver.  In  another  apartment,  a  curious 
suit  of  "  horse  furniture,"  ornamented  with  pearls  and  diamonds 
— cost  $20,000,  a  present  from  one  of  the  kings  to  his  son. 

Thence  to  the  Church — Thorwaldsen's  twelve  apostles,  in 
marble,  and  considered  among  the  finest  of  his  works.  At  the 
Museum  are  plaster  casts  of  all  his  works,  many  of  them  in  mar- 
ble. He  presented  them  to  Denmark  :  they  are  very  beautiful, 
but  none  of  them  pleased  me  more  than  some  of  Crawford's. 
On  the  outside  of  the  building  is  a  representation,  in  fresco,  of 
his  reception  on  his  return  from  Italy.  His  countrymen,  from 
king  to  peasant,  all  idolized  him.  His  tomb  is  in  the  quadrangle 
of  the  building  :  over  it  a  vase  filled  with  plants  in  bloom.  In- 
dulging the  Anglo-Saxon  taste  for  mementoes,  I  plucked  a 
flower  ;  souvenirs  that  recall  pleasant  hours. 

The  Museum  of  Antiquities  contains  much  that  is  interesting 
— commencing  with  arms  and  coins  from  a  very  early  period, 
when  payments  were  made  by  weight,  and  one's  purse  full  of 
money  was  a  coil  of  precious  metal,  and  the  pocket-knife  fur- 
nished from  it  the  small  change.  Among  the  spectators  was 
an  Englishwoman,  without  an  escort, — one  of  that  much  sympa- 
thized class,  "  an  unprotected  female." 

This  evening  visited  the  summer  garden,  -which,  from  the 
number  and  variety  of  amusements,  would  seem  to  have  com- 
prised all  in  the  city.  Our  colored  guide  affords  me  more  amuse- 
jnent  than  anybody  I  have  seen  for  a  long  time.  As  he  struts 
and  swaggers  in  the  plenitude  of  his  importance,  he  flourishes  his 
hand  and  hat  with  condescending  politeness  to  gentleman  and 
peasant,  who  return  it  with  a  seeming  consciousness  of  his  im- 
portance.    He  pats  my  Southern  friend  on  the  shoulder,  and 


A   BREEZE.  15 

whispers  to  my  Englisli  acquaintance  and  self.  Copenliagen, 
from  the  warm  weather,  is  comparatively  dull ;  the  war  of  the 
Duchies  lends  a  helping  hand  to  stupefy,  and  the  king  adds  the 
climax  by  his  own  domestic  scandal.  He  is  a  most  disreputable 
fellow,  twice  married  and  divorced,  and  now  again  married  to  a 
woman  of  neither  character  nor  birth,  of  the  Lola  Montez  genus. 
The  merchants  appear  to  live  in  considerable  style,  but  our 
blackey,  with  a  contemptuous  toss  of  the  head,  and  flourish  of 

his  skirts,  said  they  were  not  worth  a  d d  cent.     You  will 

doubtless  admire  his  elegant  and  graphic  style. 

There  are  many  pleasant  walks,  especially  near  the  moat. 
Attached  to  the  Bourse  is  a  curious  tower  or  spire,  formed  by 
four  twisted  dragons,  the  heads,  bodies,  and  tails  forming  an 
exterior  spiral  stairway.  The  Observatory  has  so  wide  and  gra- 
dual an  ascent  that  two  carriages  may  be  drawn  up  abreast. 

From  Copenhagen  steamed  to  Christiania,  in  Norway,  in  a  very 
nice  boat ;  ofl&cers  and  steamer  attached  to  the  Norwegian  navy. 

July  Zd. — Stopped  at  Elsinore  a  short  time ;  saw  the  old 
Castle  of  Konigsberg,  a  fine,  large  structure.  The  boat  was 
very  crowded  ;  of  us  one  attended  to  the  luggage,  and  the  other 
secured  a  cabin.  We  were  among  the  very  few  who  did ;  most 
of  our  acquaintances  slept  in  the  salon^  and  toileted  in  our  cabin. 

One  of  our  compatriots,  a  vulgar,  tobacco-expectorating  brag- 
gart, from  somewhere  on  the  outskirts  of  civilization.  South  or 
"West,  being  among  the  number  of  unfortunates  in  the  salon^  had 
laid  his  coat  on  a  sofa  to  secure  it,  and  returning  to  take  posses- 
sion in  the  evening,  found  a  young  cockney  reposing  on  it. 
"Without  asking  him  to  let  him  have  the  place  claimed  by  his 
coat,  which  would  instantly  have  been  done,  he  came  up  to  me 
to  ask  if  it  was  not  the  place  he  had  taken.  On  my  saying, 
"  Yes"  (as  I  had  been  talking  to  him  at  the  time  he  took  it),  he 
went  out  and  brought  the  captain  in,  who  was  wondering  what 
was  to  follow  this  unexpected  captivity,  when  the  compatriot 
asked  if  it  was  not  the  custom  when  the  steamer  was  full,  and  a 


16  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

gentleman  laid  liis  coat  on  a  sofa  to  claim  a  place,  for  the  coat  to 
keep  tlic  place  ?     "  Certainly,"  replied  the  bewildered  captain  ; 

'*  Then  I'm  d d  if  I  don't  have  my  rights,  as  a  free-born 

American  citizen."  The  rest  of  the  Americans  "  vamoosed."  The 
cockney,  who  had  been  waked  up  by  the  tumult,  seeing  he  was 
"  the  observed  of  all  observers,"  and  not  being  accustomed  to 
Western  braggadocio,  made  tracks  to  avoid  the  too  intimate 
acquaintance  of  bowie-knife  or  revolver. 

Among  our  passengers  was  a  very  gentlemanly  and  well- 
known  Bostonian.  There  was  also  a  Norwegian  who  had  gone 
to  America  nine  years  before  as  a  boy  of  sixteen.  Getting 
employment  on  a  merchant  vessel,  by  his  intelligence  and  atten- 
tion to  his  duties,  he  had  risen  to  be  first  mate  of  a  five-hundred- 
ton  ship,  lying  at  Elsinorc  ;  he  was  now  going  to  visit  his  family 
for  the  first  time  since  he  left  them.  On  his  return  to  America  he 
was  ])romiscd  the  command  of  another  ship.  He  amused  us  all, 
and  especially  the  Norwegian  ofiicers,  on  the  subject  of  blacks, 
who  arc  thought  as  much  of  by  them  as  of  whites — while  in 
changing  his  country  he  had  adopted  American  views. 

In  these  high  latitudes  you  can  read  by  the  twilight  all  night. 
This  evening  I  was  reading  on  the  deck  till  past  twelve.  The 
Fiord  is  covered  with  vessels,  the  views  beautiful,  constantly  in 
sight  of  land  on  one  side,  and  now  on  both  sides.  One  evening 
came  to  anchor  in  the  little  bay  of  Walloe ;  we  all  took  boats 
and  v;cnt  off  on  explorations.  My  friend  and  I,  among  other 
places,  visited  an  old  church  and  burial-ground.  Of  the  curious 
inscriptions — one  of  a  man  and  wife  who  had  lived  together  hap- 
pily fifty  years,  and  left  nine  borne ;  twenty-one  borne,  borne ; 
and  seven  borne,  borne,  borne.  The  first  borne  meaning  chil- 
dren ;  the  second,  grandchildren ;  and  third,  great-grandchildren. 

A  sail  of  two  days  brought  us  this  morning  to  Christiania, 
which  lies  at  the  head  of  the  bay  or  fiord,  with  a  fine  approach. 

July  4:tJi. — This  being  the  king's  birth-day,  all  the  flags  were 
flying,  and  when  we  reached  the  hotel,  ours  too,  in  honor  of  our 


GILLEY,    THE   COURIER.  17 

country's  birth-daj.  My  patriotic  friena  had  among  his  luggage 
a  fine  American  flag,  worked  by  the  fair  hands  of  one  of  his 
charming  countrywomen,  and  a  jointed  flag -staff,  cut  at  Washing- 
ton's tomb  by  the  President,  Mr.  Fillmore,  and  given  to  him  by 
the  advice  and  legal  opinion  of  the  Secretary  of  State  and  Attor- 
ney-General, Messrs.  "Webster  and  Crittenden,  thus  forming  an 
amusing  souvenir  and  episode  in  its  history. 

We  engaged  a  courier,  his  recommendation  being  that  he  was 
the  best  in  the  place,  and  could  speak  English  ;  but  we  found  his 
vocabulary  very  limited  in  addressing  us,  and  apparently  still 
more  so,  when  we  addressed  him.  Then  took  a  carriage  to 
Johnsrud  and  Kraglaven  for  a  very  fine  sunrise  view.  We  were 
on  the  ground  the  next  morning  at  two,  just  half  an  hour  too 
late,  but  the  view  alone  more  than  paid  for  the  drive.  The 
morning  was  lovely,  and  a  better  pen  than  mine  required  to 
describe  the  landscape  at  our  feet.  The  view  was  most  extensive, 
belted  by  snow-clad  mountains,  seventy  miles  distant,  while 
streams,  cascades,  and  lakes,  lent  their  charm  to  the  nearer  hills 
and  valleys,  now  half  concealed  by  morning  mist,  while  here 
and  there  a  farm  or  house  peered  through  it,  like  a  flower-bed 
plot,  and  the  tinkling  cowbells  were  the  only  evidence  of  life. 

On  our  return  I  found  at  the  Athenceum  two  New  York 
Papers,  a  luxury  you  can  scarce  appreciate,  as  you  never  fail  to 
see  a  daily  paper. 

July  8th. — Yesterday  we  started  on  a  tour  inland ;  to-day 
reached  Minde,  on  a  beautiful  lake  (Morsin).  Our  equipage,  the 
best  we  could  find,  a  miniature  Noah's  ark,  the  wheels  the  size 
of  a  handbarrow's.  Our  courier,  whose  name  we,  for  conve- 
nience, have  abbreviated  to  Gilley,  acted  in  the  double  capacity 
of  charioteer  and  courier ;  his  bappy  old  face  beaming  with 
pleasure,  and  a  grin  from  ear  to  ear,  whenever  we  spoke.  To 
our  anxious  inquiries,  if  he  was  certain  he  knew  how  to  drive, 
he  gave  an  extra  grin  and  his  horses  an  additional  cut  with  the 
whip,  and  replied,  "Oh,  yes;  oh,  yes;  he  drive  well,  he  drive 

2 


18        .  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

quick ;"  then  cherup  to  his  poor  little  team.  We've  had  all  sorts 
of  a  time,  first  terribly  dusty,  then  a  pelting  rain,  terminating  with 
hail.  Reached  our  stopping-place  about  half-past  eleven  at 
night ;  and  next  morning,  while  breakfasting,  were  joined  by  a 
very  nice  fellow,  a  young  Englishman,  who  had  lately  left  the 
army. 

To-day,  being  Sunday  and  a  holiday,  numbers  of  vehicles 
were  constantly  arriving.  The  usual  vehicle  of  travel  is  what  is 
-called  a  "  carry-all,"  as  if  in  burlesque  of  its  capacity,  which  is 
limited  to  one  person  and  a  small  carpet  bag,  while  the  post-boy, 
if  you  have  one,  rides  the  horse. 

My  friend  has  just  been  trying  to  make  our  brilliant  courier 
understand  we  want  an  early  breakfast,  with  coffee,  eggs,  and 
a  beefsteak  broiled,  to  which  he  has  just  replied,  "Yes,  yes,  I 
understand,  coffee,  eggs,  and  beefsteak  toiled  f  so  we  sent  him 
for  the  article  to  be  sure.  He  returned  with  a  nondescript,  looking 
like  a  relic  of  the  crusades,  an  old  vizor,  about  six  inches 
diameter,  so  you  may  imagine  what  our  steak  will  be  like. 

Our  landlord  has  been  in  a  side  room  all  day  playing  cards, 
and  some  neighbors  rolling  nine-pins.  But  as  we  go  at  five,  by 
the  Damshift  (steamboat),  to-morrow  morning,  I  must  say  hon  nuit, 
though  broad  daylight. 

We  were  all  on  board  in  good  season,  Gilley  looking  much 
the  happiest  of  the  party.  There  are  a  great  number  of  passen- 
gers, every  man  and  boy  with  his  pipe  and  pouch. 

The  day  has  been  lovely,  and  the  entire  sail  of  eighty  miles  a 
succession  of  beautiful  views,  interspersed  with  evidences  of  sub- 
stantial prosperity  in  good  farms  and  houses,  with  a  well-clad 
people. 

We  undertook  to  journalize  in  the  cabin,  but  the  tobacco 
smoke  and  discordant  snoring  so  discomposed  eyes  and  ears,  we 
were  forced  to  beat  a  retreat.  To-day  we  returned  to  Chris- 
tiania,  weary  and  worn,  while  poor  Gilley  could  scarce  muster  a 
-ghastly  smile  instead  of  his  usual  broad  grin.  We  met  some 
•engineers  who  are  constructing  a  railroad  along  the  river,  and 


GOTTENBURG.  19 

then  drove  to  Hunefoss  or  Dog-fall,  a  fine  cascade  about  fifteen 
miles  north  of  Lillehammer, 

For  two  days  it  has  rained  most  of  the  time.  Yesterday,  at 
the  hotel  where  we  stopped,  they  gave  us  for  dinner  a  fish  much 
praised  in  this  country,  which  they  called  Eeck ;  on  close  inspec- 
tion I  found  it  to  be  an  old  acquaintance, — the  spotted  trout. 

To-day  we  found  a  small  mountain-torrent  had,  in  one  place, 
made  a  deep  gully  in  the  road,  so  sent  Gilley  after  some  farmers, 
and  in  a  short  time  had  a  specimen  of  a  Norwegian  impromptu 
bridge.  Labor  is  very  cheap  here ;  most  of  the  men  we  met  on 
the  road  only  receiving  about  two  shillings  and  sixpence,  of  our 
money,  per  day ;  their  diet  light.  The  king  has  a  very  pretty 
palace  here,  and  the  country  contains  one  nobleman,  who  must 
have  a  jovial  time  if  he  confines  himself,  when  here,  to  those  of 
his  own  rank. 

GoTTENBURG,  July  14. — After  ten  delightful  days  in  Norway, 
came  to  this  place,  about  two  thirds  of  the  way  down  the  Fiord, 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  bodies  of  water  in  the  world ;  more  than 
one  hundred  miles  you  are  surrounded  by  grand  and  varying 
scenery. 

Last  night  was  tempestuous,  and  passed  midst  the  discordant 
sounds  of  a  creaking  vessel  and  the  moans  of  the  seasick. 
Among  the  passengers,  a  Norwegian  from  New  York,  who  asked 
about  many  New  Yorkers  he  knew  (in  a  professional  way,  I 
presume,  as  he  was  a  practising  dentist). 

The  only  satisfactory  lodgings  we  could  find  were  kept  by  a 
bowing,  scraping  Jew.  Having  secured  our  passage  in  the 
canal-boat  for  Stockholm,  joined  some  Scotchmen,  who  came 
down  the  Fiord  with  us,  and  had  been  making  a  pedestrian  tour 
through  Norway,  We  dined  at  the  Laurenceberg  Gardens,  a 
pretty  resort  just  out  of  town  ;  on  our  return  passed  through  the 
artillery  parade  ground,  where  some  soldiers  were  amusing  them- 
selves tossing  unlucky  comrades  in  a  blanket. 

On  returning  our  little  Jew  host,  with  a  profusion  of  bows, 


20  FROM   WALL   STEEET  TO   CASUMERE. 

tried  to  sell  us  something ;  first  it  was  some  Elderberry  wine, 
very  fine,  of  whicli  he  had  only  three  bottles  left ;  then  sundry 
other  things,  concluding  with  such  a  convenient  pocket-book; 
but,  unfortunately,  we  were  not  in  want  of  anything.  He  has 
been  endeavoring  to  persuade  us  to  leave  our  things  here  until 
our  return ;  in  his  excitement  he  rattled  away  in  Swedish,  and 
pulling  out  some  of  his  grey  hairs,  pointed  to  them  and  the 
things,  from  which,  I  gathered,  he  liicant  not  a  hair  of  them 
would  be  touched. 

The  town  is  small,  neat,  and  flourishing,  of  about  87,000.  In 
these  northern  latitudes  the  excessive  formality  of  politeness  is 
very  disagreeable,  more  than  I  have  ever  seen  before,  not  only 
bowing  to  every  other  man  you  meet  but  taking  off  your  hat. 

In  Norway  there  is  a  curious  custom.  On  rising  from  table,  the 
father,  mother,  and  children  kiss  each  other,  shaking  hands  with 
their  guests,  hope  the  meal  will  do  them  no  harm — that  of  the 
parents  and  children  I  witnessed  on  board  of  the  steamer. 

July  15 — Falls  of  Trall-hatten. — Came  on  here  this  morn- 
ing, via  the  Gotha  Canal,  which  crosses  through  the  centre  and 
garden  of  Sweden  to  Stockholm,  which  route  we  shall  continue 
to-morrow.  This  is  a  succession  of  small  falls  or  very  heavy 
rapids,  and  very  grand,  being  ■  the  whole  body  of  the  river ; 
approaching  it  are  some  fine  locks,  though  in  number  do  not 
compare  with  Lockport  on  the  Erie  Canal. 

July  22 — Stockholm. — The  jar  of  the  small  steamer  used  on 
the  canal  has  prevented  my  letter-journalising  until  our  arrival 
here.  I  had  barely  time  to  make  a  half-way  sketch  of  the  rapids 
when  the  boat  arrived,  and  very  full — ^by  good  luck  all  very  nice 
people.  In  Sweden  they  have  a  curious  custom  in  the  navy ; 
every  five  years  (I  think)  an  officer  is  allowed  leave  of  absence 
for  about  three  years,  when  he  seeks  employment  in  the  mer- 
chant steamers,  and  thus  receives  increased  pay.  This  was  the 
case  with  our  captain.     His  father,  the  oldest  admiral  in  the 


in' '  II) '  f '  ^*^^\#t' 


Sketched  by  the  Author.  See  page 

WEDDING   COSTUME   AT    SAETEESDALEN,  NOEWAY. 


i 


YANKEE   DOODLE   WITH  VARIATIONS.  21 

service,  was  on  board  with  his  family :  Miss  Bremer's  two  sisters, 
and  brother-in-law,  who  had  some  high  position  at  court,  besides 
sundry  others,  one  a  very  nice  fellow,  formerly  an  officer  in  the 
guards,  who,  in  his  boyhood,  had  gone  to  South  America  for  his 
health,  and  there  became  very  intimate  with  the  officers  of  some 
of  our  ships  of  war.  His  great  delight  was  to  start  a  discussion 
between  my  Scotch  friends  and  me  about  the  respective  merits  of 
England  and  America;  and,  as  it  is  a  subject  the  natives  of 
the  two  countries  can  never  agree  upon,  we  always  changed  it ; 
but  there  was  no  evading  his  ingenuity,  and  the  moment  he 
succeeded  he  would  rub  his  hands  in  his  glee,  washing  them 
"  with  invisible  soap." 

My  friend  soon  made  the  acquaintance  of  Miss  Bremer's 
family,  having  entertained  her  at  his  house  only  a  few  evenings 
before  leaving  America.  The  passengers  all  spoke  English  or 
French,  and  we  had  the  most  delightful  voyage,  or  journey,  since 
leaving  home. 

The  scenery  gentle  but  beautiful ;  passed  through  several  lakes, 
"Wettern  (which  is  very  large),  Werner,  and  Malar,  In  the 
former  stands  the  finest  fortification  in  Sweden — capable  of  con- 
taining 20,000  men — and  called  Wanas.  My  companion  told  the 
admiral  of  his  having  the  American  flag ;  he  expressed  a  wish 
to  see  it ;  and  my  friend  asked  to  have  it  hoisted  in  passing  the 
fort,  which  the  admiral  requested  his  son  to  do.  My  officer 
friend  endeavored  to  recall  (to  some  returning  musicians,  by 
whistling)  the  air  of  Yankee  Doodle,  and  finally  got  it,  after  their 
own  fashion,  with  any  number  of  unheard  of  variations ;  and 
the  most  enthusiastic  Yankee  would  have  been  much  puzzled  to 
"guess"  the  air  except  from  the  intention.  He  told  me  how 
near  he  was  joining  our  navy,  and  wound  up  by  saying  what  a 
good  American  he  was ;  and  then,  giving  me  a  wink,  told  my 
Scotch  acquaintances,  sitting  at  my  side,  that  he  had  learned 
"so  many  American  songs  on  the  Macedonian,  captured  from 
the  English,"  and  began  singing  some  of  our  naval  victories. 
He  then  alluded  to  our  successes  over  the  English,  till  he  had 


22  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

excited  my  friends'  national  pride  and  produced  the  discussion  he 
was  wishing.  On  bidding  him  good-bye,  at  Stockholm,  he  took 
my  hand,  asked  me  the  course  of  my  wanderings,  then  shaking 
it  warmly,  said,  "Then  you  go  home — then  you  marry — then 
may  you  be  happy  as  I  be."  I  heartily  joined  him  in  the  last 
wish,  for  he  had  one  of  the  handsomest,  finest  women  I've  met 
since  I  left  home — not  to  speak  of  her  "  solid  charms^ 

Wc  stopped  at  Motala,  which  has  the  finest  iron-works  in 
Sweden,  Iron  steamers,  steam-engines,  rolling  mills,  etc.,  are 
made  here.  Government  is  making  great  efforts  to  improve 
their  various  manufactures;  and  young  men  are  sent  to  Eng- 
land to  learn  the  method  of  making  cutlery.  I  saw  some 
good  machinery,  and  small  steamers  for  the  Eussian  govern- 
ment. In  passing  the  locks  we  all  got  out  and  walked. 
Once  we  stopped  to  see  the  grave  of  Admiral  Plattan,  the 
De  Witt  Clinton  of  this  canal.  It  .docs  not  lead  direct  to 
Stockholm,  but  reaches  the  coast  some  distance  south,  and 
then  the  steamer  coasts  through  a  beautiful,  but  most  dense, 
archipelago  of  islands  and  rocks,  the  passage  so  winding  that 
frequently  you  cannot  see  a  clear  course  one  hundred  feet  ahead, 
making  navigation  dangerous  and  most  diflicult. 

Last  evening  we  were  all  to  bed  early,  with  repeated  injunc- 
tions to  be  called  before  daylight,  as  the  approach  to  Stockholm 
is  much  admired.  "We  were  on  deck  by  three  o'clock ;  alas  for 
our  pleasant  anticipations ;  it  was  raining  in  torrents,  but,  well 
wrapped  up,  we  waited  for  the  first  glimpse.  A  venerable  Jew 
crawled  out,  sans  cravat^  with  dressing-gown  and  slippers  ;  next 
our  two  Scotchmen ;  but  the  rain  was  too  much  for  my  com- 
pagnon  de  voyage^  and  he  tumbled  into  his  berth  again.  "We  held 
on  only  to  be  disappointed.  Though  fine  in  sunshine,  the 
view  was  dreary  enough  in  a  pelting  rain. 

Here  our  luggage  had  to  be  re-examined.     Our  new  acquaint* 

ance,  Mr.  G (the  brother-in-law  of  Miss  Bremer),  sent  his 

servant  for  a  guide  and  carriage,  and  we  are  now  snugly  lodged 
in  private  apartments,  clean,  and  supplied  with  every  comfort 


THE    DALECARLIANS.  23 

and  one  su2:)erfluous  luxury  (fleas).  We  liave  a  most  provokinglj 
stupid  servant,  or  commissionnoAre,  on  whom  we  expend  patience 
and  abuse  successively.  He  occasionally  allows  his  sympathy 
for  Americans  to  break  forth  in  a  condolatory  strain,  regretting 
Mr.  Ellsworth  behaved  so  badly ;  defrauding  the  custom-house 
while  Charge  d'affaires  and  hurting  America — ^but  always  con- 
cludes with  '■^hut  he  was  a  goodman^ 

On  our  arrival  we  sent  "  old  stupid  "  with  cards  and  a  note  to 
the  Charge  ^affaires  to  ask  when  we  should  call,  and  to  "  borrow 
the  loan  "  of  American  or  English  newspapers.  He  sent  us  the 
late  papers  and  an  invitation  to  dine,  en  famille,  to-day.  We 
met  Mr.  Cogswell,  who  was  hunting  up  books  for  the  Astor 
Library,  and  had  a  delightful  visit. 

Sunday. — Lutheran  church  of  St.  Nicholas.  I  suppose  the 
service  was  very  affecting,  for  I  saw  two  women  near  me  crying, 
but  as  I  never  act  without  "a  why  and  wherefore,"  I  could  not 
sympathizingly  join  them  from  ignorance  of  the  language. 
The  preacher  wore  a  black  gown,  and  the  priest  read  the  service 
like  a  catholic.  In  the  congregation  were  many  Dalecarlians  in 
full  costume ;  they  are  from  one  of  the  northern  districts,  and 
were  the  first  to  declare  for  Gustavus  Yasa  when  Sweden 
revolted  from  Denmark.  They  pride  themselves  on  their  inde- 
pendence, and  come  down  in  large  numbers  during  the  summer 
months  to  work ;  the  women  mostly  managing  the  small  plea- 
sure or  passenger  boats  that  ply  between  the  islands  and  the 
city.  They  all  dress  in  their  peculiar  costume,  which  is  quite; 
picturesque. 

This  afternoon  we  crossed  to  one  of  the  islands,  and  while 
strolling  through  the  grounds  of  one  of  the  smaller  palaces  (of 
which  the  king  has  fourteen,  large  and  small)  we  were  attacked 
by  a  German  professor,  who  would  have  us  go  in ;  as  it  would 
save  expense  for  us  and  his  family,  we  did  so.  It  is  tastefully 
furnished  with  Dresden  china;  a  table  of  malachite,  one  of 
Sevres,  an  exquisite  thing,  and  a  present  from  Louis  Philippe  to 


24  FROM   WAT.L   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Bernadottc.  In  front  of  the  palace  are  two  large  porphyry 
vases,  seven  or  eight  feet  high.  We  passed  several  places  of 
amusement  and  theatres,  all  apparently  well  attended ;  our  ser- 
vant could  not  understand  why  we  would  not  go  in,  especially 
as  the  performances  were  better  on  Sunday  than  any  other 
day. 

Yesterday  we  visited  the  Eidder-haus,  or  Knight's  Parliament, 
composed  of  heads  of  noble  families.  They  had  an  animated 
debate  on  the  "school  question."  Then  the  church  of  Eidder- 
haus — the  royal  burial-place,  and  repository  of  the  remains  of 
many  great  generals ;  those  of  Gustavus  Adolphus  and  Charles 
the  Twelfth,  together  with  the  five  thousand  flags  taken  by  the 
various  sovereigns,  but  mostly  by  Gustavus  Adolphus,  in  the 
Thirty  Years'  War.  There  are  many  equestrian  figures,  with 
coats  of  armor  w^orn  by  distinguished  kings  of  Sweden.  We 
then  visited  the  great  palace,  which  incloses  a  vast  quad- 
rangle ;  Bernadotte's  bedroom,  as  he  died ;  in  one  room  a  picture 
of  his  coronation,  and  another  of  himself,  wife,  children,  and 
grandchildren — a  grand  family  group.  Among  the  beautiful 
objects  of  the  palace  are  two  handsome  malachite  vases  five  feet 
liigh. 

July  22nd. — To-day  we  went  down  to  Drotningholm  (or, 
'Queen's  Island),  on  the  Malar  lake,  seven  miles  from  Stockholm. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  palaces  in  the  kingdom.  The  park 
.almost  equals  Versailles,  and  has  various  cottages,  Swiss  and 
■Chinese,  for  the  amusement  of  the  royal  family.  Stockholm 
is  well  built,  with  many  large  public  edifices.  It  is  subdivided 
by  numerous  small  streams  or  canals,  and  mostly  built  on  piles. 
The  harbor  is  dotted  with  small  islands,  and  the  poetry  of  the 
scene  is  heightened  by  the  picturesque  costume  of  the  Dalecarlian 
boatwomen.  The  country  is  prosperous;  moderate  taxes,  no 
.debt,  and  a  large  surplus  in  the  treasury. 

23(7. — To-day,  the  Museum  of  Antiquities.     The  collection  is 


EN   ROUTE   FOR  NEW   UPSALA.  25 

fine  in  coins,  trinkets,  and  weapons  found  in  this  country  from 
the  earliest  period ;  besides  many  curious  things  captured  at 
Prague  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War  (Gustavus  Adolphus, 
king  of  Sweden,  being  generalissimo  of  the  allied  Protestant 
powers,  against  Austria  and  her  allies) ;  also,  a  curiously  carved 
piece  of  ivory,  by  one  of  her  generals,  during  a  long  imprison- 
ment at  Copenhagen.  A  Swedish  student,  of  Upsala,  from  the 
Island  of  St.  Bartholomew,  had  come  here  to  be  educated,  had 
graduated,  was  to  be  married  in  a  few  weeks,  and  return  home. 
He  gave  us  much  desirable  information  about  Upsala,  and  the 
Danamora  iron  mines,  besides  a  letter  to  a  friend  of  his,  the 
royal  secretary,  at  Upsala. 

Among  the  sights  here  is  the  market-place,  where  Christian 
of  Denmark,  "  The  Tyrant,"  executed  ninety  Swedish  noblemen 
in  one  day ;  among  them,  the  father  of  Gustavus  Vasa,  who 
revolutionized  Sweden,  and  was  made  king.  Dined  as  usual  at 
the  club,  where  we  had  been  introduced  by  our  banker.  Drove 
to  the  telegraph,  where  we  had  a  beautiful  panoramic  view  of 
Stockholm  and  its  bay  of  islands.  Returning,  a  Finnish  acquaint- 
ance joined  us  for  the  Deer  Garden,  a  favorite  afternoon  resort, 
where  there  were  some  fine  tableaux  vivants,  besides  equipages 
of  the  nobility. 

24:ih. — This  morning  started  for  New  Upsala,  by  steamer,  up 
the  lake.  Shortly  after,  while  we  were  talking  to  each  other  of 
the  pretty  face  and  figure  of  a  lady  standing  near  us,  Count 
Sparr^!,  whose  mother,  sister,  and  brother-in-law  (my  officer 
friend),  we  had  known  on  board  the  steamer  from  Gotten- 
burg,  came  up  and  introduced  himself,  said  he  had  been  looking 
for  us  in  Stockholm  several  davs  without  success,  and  now  was 
on  his  way  to  his  mother's,  with  his  fiancee  (the  young  lady  we 
had  been  noticing),  who  was  a  "maid  of  honor"  to  the  Queen. 
He  wished  us  to  go  home  and  spend  a  few  days  at  his  house ; 
but  we  had  to  decline  on  account  of  our  engagements,  though  it 
would  have  given  us  much  pleasure  to  have  accepted. 


2<j  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

The  sail  was  fine  up  tlic  lake ,  with,  its  small  islands.  "We 
passed  Sigtuna,  the  capitol,  under  Odin.  We  sent  our  letter  and 
cards  to  the  secretary.  While  dining,  a  gentleman  called,  said 
his  friend  was  not  at  home,  but  he  would  show  us  the  sights. 
He  took  us  to  the  College — a  cluster  of  buildings,  the  students 
living  where  they  choose,  and  certain  hours  and  days  attending 
at  the  professors'  houses.  The  library  is  a  fine  building,  of 
130,000  volumes — many  of  them  American ;  saw  one  of  the  pro- 
fessors who  had  lately  returned  from  the  United  States — pleased 
with  his  trip.  Visited  the  cathedral,  which  contains  the  Tomb  of 
Gustavus  Vasa,  and  frescoes  of  the  four  principal  scenes  in  his  life. 

To-day,  on  to  Danamora  mines,  thirty  miles  through  a  well 
cultivated  country.  The  place  is  filled  with  what  looked  like 
paving  stones  of  trap  rock,  but  are  pieces  of  iron  ore.  The  pits 
or  mines  vary  from  two  to  six  hundred  feet  long,  by  one  or  two 
hundred  wide,  and  from  four  to  five  hundred  feet  deep  ;  though 
there  is  one  that  is  over  seven  hundred,  perfectly  dark.  Over 
most  of  them  there  is  a  wheel,  with  a  wire  rope  about  half  an 
inch  in  diameter,  which  also  passes  half  a  dozen  times  round  a 
cylinder  about  fifi;y  feet  distant,  to  keep  the  cord  from  slipping, 
as  there  are  two  buckets,  one  descending  as  the  other  ascends. 
The  best  mine  is  five  hundred  feet  deep  ;  so  we  slipped  on  miners' 
coats,  and  with  a  guide  got  into  the  bucket,  a  heavy  affair,  two 
and  a  half  feet  high,  by  three  in  diameter.  The  man  stood  on 
the  rim  to  fend  off  from  the  rocks.  We  passed,  on  our  passage, 
a  great  number  of  dark  caverns  that  had  been  explored  for  iron , 
also  little  birds  flying  about.  There  was  considerable  ice  and 
snow  on  the  rocks  and  at  the  bottom.  Here  they  are  just 
beginning  to  make  exploratory  caverns  or  passages.  After 
warming  up  at  the  fire,  and  feeing  the  guide,  we  got  in  again, 
and  in  five  minutes  were  at  the  top.  As  it  was  near  twelve, 
when  the  men  "  knock  off"  for  the  day,  and  blast  the  morning 
drills,  we  waited,  and  got  a  good  place  to  see  and  hear ;  such  a 
succession  of  terrific  blasts  I  have  never  heard — old  Jove's  best 
thunderbolts  are  child's-play  to  it. 


Sketched  liy  the  Author. 

DESCENT   TO   DANEMORA   IRON  MINES,   SWEDEN. 


See  page  26, 


IRON   MINES.  27 

There  are  eiglity  mines,  but  only  forty-eight  worked,  and  these 
for  only  a  small  part  of  the  year,  as  only  a  certain  portion  of 
wood  was  allowed  to  be  cut  for  smelting,  lest  it  should  be  de- 
stroyed. This  restriction  has  been  done  away  with  for  several 
years,  but  the  force  of  custom,  I  presume,  has  prevented  any 
change  in  the  amount  cut,  notwithstanding  the  immense  amount 
of  forest  in  the  country — thus,  much  reducing  the  large  quan- 
tity that  might  be  made  in  the  country,  and  exported,  for  they 
are  forbid  by  law  from  exporting  unsmelted  ore.  The  annual 
average  produced  within  the  last  five  years  by  these  celebrated 
mines,  is  only  300,000  tons ;  the  quantity  manufactured,  about 
130,000  tons,  and  100,000  tons  of  bar  iron.  Two-fifths  of  the 
pig  iron  is  purchased  and  manufactured  into  bar  iron,  by  iron 
masters,  who  do  not  own  mines ;  the  remainder  is  manufactured 
by  the  companies  who  own  the  mines.  The  best  iron  is  found 
in  the  Upsala  district,  at  Danamora  or  Soderby,  which  contains 
the  forges. 

There  are  4,000  tons  made  here  annually.  It  is  the  best  in  iJie 
world  for  steel !  The  iron  made  in  Sweden  is  superior  to  that  of 
other  countries,  from  being  smelted  by  charcoal  instead  of  other 
coal  or  peat.  Of  the  70,000  tons  exported,  33,000  are  used  in 
England;  20,000  in  the  United  States ;  8,000  in  Denmark;  and 
5,000  in  France. 

Stopped  at  Old  Upsala,  visiting  the  tombs  and  tumuli  of  Odin 
and  his  family ;  drank  mead  out  of  his  horn.  Saw  the  old 
church,  the  first  Christian  one  in  Scandinavia.  Passed  a  fine 
chateau  of  the  Brahe  family. 

26i!7i. — To-day  rowed  down  to  Stockloster  Chateau,  built  by 
Marshal  Wrangel,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  of  the  Swedish 
generals  in  the  Thirty  Years'  "War,  but,  by  marriage,  is  now  in 
the  Brahe  family.  It  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  old  build- 
ings I  have  ever  visited ;  has  six  large  rooms  appropriated  to 
the  armor  of  the  two  families,  which  contain  many  curious  wea- 
pons, and  a  large  library  in  the  other  six  rooms  on  that  story. 


28  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

The  large  galleries  are  hung  with  portraits  of  old  marshals  and 
battle  scenes  ;  while  the  vacant  spaces  are  filled  with  quotations 
in  French,  German,  Italian,  and  Latin.  The  parlors  and  cabi- 
nets are  filled  with  presents  from  sovereigns,  or  things  captured 
at  Prague.  One  room  was  carpeted  with  Gobelin  tapestry ;  in 
another,  which  we  were  shown  into,  a  pretty  young  countess 
was  taking  her  music  lesson  ;  discovering  the  mistake  we  bowed 
and  retired.  The  building  contains  a  quadrangle,  with  octago- 
nal towers.  A  hundred  yards  distant,  the  old  church  contains 
the  tombs  of  the  marshal  and  his  ancestors.  On  our  way  down 
the  lake  we  passed  the  prince  royal,  who  was  going  to  the  same 
chateau. 

29th. — To-day  we  visited  Gripsholm  Palace,  built  a.d.  1300 ; 
burnt  in  one  of  the  revolutions ;  and  rebuilt  by  a  marshal  of  the 
Thirty  Years'  "War  from  his  share  of  the  plunder.  It  contains 
many  portraits  of  Swedish  celebrities.  I  have  not  seen  so  many 
portraits  of  fine-looking  men,  since  I  landed  in  Europe,  as  in 
the  palaces  and  chateaux  of  this  country.  Here  several  kings 
were  confined  and  poisoned. 

On  our  return  to  Stockholm  saw  the  eclipse,  which  here  was 
about  three-quarters.  Taking  a  drive  in  the  park  met  some  of 
the  princes.  Saw  the  foundations  of  the  Bastile,  laid  by  Gus- 
tavus  the  Third  for  the  benefit  of  his  nobles,  who,  not  liking  the 
project,  shot  him  at  the  opera-house  before  it  was  finished. 

This  evening  tead  with  the  family  of  our  Charge-d' Affaires, 

July  SOth. — To-day  visited  the  four  Chambers  of  Deputies, 
viz :  nobles,  priests,  citizens,  and  peasants.  They  meet  every 
four  years.  They  seemed  very  respectable,  sensible,  fine-looking 
people,  and  conducted  matters  with  much  order  and  decorum. 
Then  off  on  the  steamer  for  St.  Petersburg.  Had  a  most  affect- 
ing parting  with  "  old  stupid,"  who  paid  us  for  our  good  advice 
and  scoldings,  with  tears  and  "  God  bless  yous." 

We  had  about  seventy  passengers,  stowed  close  :  the  fortunate 


A   DROSKY.  29 

ones  in  the  cabin,  the  rest  where  they  can  tuck  away — ^in  car- 
riages, on  floors,  or  decks,  rolled  in  cloaks,  with  starry  canopy. 
Many  are  very  pleasant :  an  elderly,  retired  English  Peninsular 
officer,  and  a  young  Irishman,  under  his  protection,  my  friend 
and  self,  all  paired  off;  the  old  'uns  and  young  'uns  together 
(the  imagined  parentals  and  filials) : — a  Finlander,  an  Italian ; 
and  a  Eussian,  sent  out  by  the  Emperor  to  take  charge  of 
his  nation's  share  in  the  Exhibition. 

August  1st. — Abo — We  reached  to-day,  after  a  delightful  sail 
of  sixty  hours,  mostly  surrounded  by  pretty  little  islands.  It 
formerly  was  part  of  Sweden,  but  taken  from  her  by  the  Allied 
Powers  in  1815,  and  given  to  Eussia,  while  Norway  was  taken 
from  Denmark  and  given  to  Sweden. 

Our  luggage  and  passports  examined,  and  our  descriptions 
taken  (my  friend  has  a  middle  name,  and  the  official  gravely 
asked  if  the  two  first  would  not  answer  without  the  third),  and 
a  refreshing  swim  in  the  Gulf  of  Finland,  the  Finn,  who  lives 
here,  took  us  a  drive  through  the  town  in  droskies,  the  funniest 
contrivances  you  can  imagine.  They  are  only  a  foot  and  a  half 
from  the  ground,  with  low  wheels,  a  wide  mud-guard,  protecting 
seat  and  steps,  and  the  most  conspicuous  thing  about  the  vehicle. 
Sinking  into  a  low,  scanty  seat,  no  cover,  and  buttoned  in  by  an 
apron,  the  driver,  in  a  long  dressing-gown-looking  coat,  confined 
at  the  waist  by  a  red  sash,  with  a  very  low,  but  immensely  bell- 
crowned  hat,  mounted  the  little  box  in  front,  and  started  his 
miniature  Bucephalus  off  at  a  gallop.  Both  arms  were  kept  go- 
ing, whipping,  slapping,  and  he  chirruping  to  this  imaginary  steed, 
who  hurried  us  over  gutters,  pavements,  up  and  down  hill,  at 
this  same  rapid  pace.  "We  wished  to  see  a  Cossack  regiment 
stationed  in  the  suburbs,  but  were  disappointed — they  were  not 
in  uniform.  They  are  a  most  miserable  dirty-looking  set.  The 
horses  are  small  and  badly  shaped,  though,  I  believe,  of  great 
endurance.  Eeturned  just  as  a  lumbering  travelling  carriage 
started  off,  drawn  by  four  little  rats  of  horses,  tied  by  ropes  to 


30  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

every  place  tliey  could  bitch  fast  to.  In,  on,  and  around  it  was 
stowed  luggage  enough  for  a  caravan.  I  counted  ten  umbrellas, 
six  canes,  and  five  parasols ! 

August  2d. — Kevel — We  reached  this  afternoon,  after  two 
days  of  steaming.  Yesterday  afternoon  and  evening  had  a  vio- 
lent thunderstorm.  The  captain,  for  safety,  anchored  at  dark. 
All  who  could,  got  into  the  cabin ;  the  rest  were  obliged  to  avail 
themselves  of  the  carriages,  awnings,  luggage  covers,  etc.  We 
were  in  the  back  cabin,  a  room  about  twenty  by  twenty -four,  of 
which  one-half  was  occupied  by  berths,  which,  with  closed  win- 
dows and  bed  curtains,  caused  an  oppressive  heat,  almost  sti- 
fling ;  but  we  poor  (sixteen)  mortals,  by  dint  of  obstinacy  and 
perseverance,  managed  to  survive  the  night. 

By  six  this  morning  were  at  Sweaborg  and  Helsingfors.  A 
small  town,  with  a  very  fine  fortress,  impregnably  fortified,  and 
called  the  "  Gibraltar  of  the  North ;"  the  place,  principally  a 
military  post,  and  containing  many  public  buildings,  has  an 
imposing  Lutheran  church.  Then  across  the  Gulf  of  Finland  to 
this  place,  which  we  reached  at  four  this  afternoon.  It  is  the 
great  naval  depot  of  the  Baltic.  We  did  not  go  ashore ;  there 
was  a  pelting  rain  all  the  time  we  were  here.  Among  the  pas- 
sengers who  came  aboard  was  a  young  Prince  Bobinski,  a  very 
gentlemanly,  intelligent  young  fellow  of  about  twenty,  a  mid- 
shipman, and  grandson  of  one  of  the  Empress  Catharine's 
"  nephews.^'' 

Aug.  4 — St.  Petersburg. — Two  days  more  brought  us  here. 
Saturday  night,  after  leaving  Eevel,  it  cleared  off  and  has  been 
fine  ever  since.  The  Gulf  has  thronged  with  vessels — yesterday 
we  counted  ninety-seven ;  and  lighthouses  on  most  of  the  many 
islands.  Reached  Cronstadt  about  four  this  afternoon.  The 
approach  is  very  formidable,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  the  combined 
fleets  of  the  world  could  take  it.  Here  our  passports  and  selves 
were  visaed ;  then  we  shifted  to  a  small  steamer  and  went  up 


ST.   PETERSBURG.  31 

the  bay  (whicli  is  about  fifteen  miles  long  by  ten  wide,  and  very 
shoal)  to  this  place.  The  sail  is  pleasant ;  on  the  one  side  are 
scattered  palaces,  villas,  and  villages ;  among  the  former  Peter- 
hoff*  the  old  imperial  residence  of  Peter  the  Great,  and  several 
smaller,  prettier,  and  more  modern  ones  of  the  present  Emperor. 
On  the  opposite  side,  the  low  marshy  shores  of  Livonia ;  passed 
the  Kamschatka,  the  first  and  fastest  steiam  frigate  in  the  Eussian 
Navy,  built  at  Hoboken  ;  also  two  small  American  steamers  that 
ply  between  St.  Petersburg  and  Peterhoff.  "We  soon  caught 
sight  of  the  Admiralty,  and  St.  Isaac's  gilded  dome,  besides  many 
others,  spangled  and  gilded,  though  less  grand  and  beautiful. 
The  first  approach  of  the  Neva,  is  through  wood  rafts  and 
decayed  docks ;  then  soon  in  the  midst  of  the  fine  granite  quays, 
iron  bridges,  and  beautiful  buildings.  A  soldier  guarded  us  till 
the  custom-house  ofl&cers  came.  The  man  who  was  to  examine 
my  luggage,  shut  it  up  without  looking  at  it,  at  the  same  time 
giving  me  a  knowing  look.  I  accordingly  "  tip'd"  him,  and 
with  our  two  English  friends  was  soon  at  Mr.  Benson's,  a  very 
nice  English  boarding-house  on  the  banks  of  the  Neva. 

Owing  to  the  necessity  of  having  our  passports  viseed  we  did 
very  little  regular  sightseeing  yesterday  or  to-day.  This  after- 
noon the  Secretary  (now  Charge  d' Affaires)  called,  and  went  with 
us  to  look  at  several  places.  Saw  Catharine's  celebrated  statue 
of  Peter  the  Great,  very  fine  and  spirited,  though  not  as  large  as 
we  supposed.  It  is  in  a  large  square,  on  the  four  sides  of  which 
are  the  palace,  Isaac  Church,  Admiralty,  quay,  and  bridge,  a 
beautiful  coup  (Poe.il  of  art,  and  gratifying  to  an  American,  for 
most  of  the  iron  bridge  is  the  work  of  an  American  manufactory 
here.  The  great  railway  to  Moscow  is  in  charge  of  Americans ; 
the  Emperor  has  much  confidence  in  them,  and  it's  pleasant  to 
know  that  some  of  them  are  creditable, — the  diplomats  are  rarely 
so,  except  to  England  and  France.  Ellsworth,  Chargd  to  Sweden, 
defrauded  the  government,  and  left  without  paying  his  private 
debts.  At  this  court,  John  Eandolph  behaved  so  rudely  to  the 
court,  that  his  recall  or  absence  was  requested.     Bagly,  our  late 


32  FROM    WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Minister  here,  had  three  appointments  to  present  his  credentials, 
and  every  time  too  drunk  to  keep  them  ;  on  the  occasion  of  one 
appointment  he  was  lying  drunk  on  the  floor  in  one  corner  of 
his  room,  his  servant  in  another,  and  the  female  companions  of 
their  debauchery  in  some  other  part  of  the  room  in  the  same  feli- 
citous condition ;  and  when  he  did  get  them  made  a  long 
harangue  to  the  Emperor.  He  was  so  constantly  engaged  in 
low  debauchery  that,  I'm  told,  a  letter  was  written  to  Gen, 
Taylor  requesting  his  recall,  or  that  otherwise  the  Emperor 
would  be  compelled  to  give  him  his  passport.  One  of  the  Secre- 
taries, who  was  left  as  Charge^  went  armed  to  the  ball  given  on 
the  marriage  of  the  Crown  Prince,  and  getting  drunk,  swore 
he'd  shoot  any  one  who  attempted  to  remove  him.  Hannigan, 
in  Prussia,  w^as  drunk  most  of  the  time — left  in  debt  to  every 
one,  and  murdered  his  brother-in-law  when  he  got  home  for 
greater  ^clat.  The  man  who  was  sent  over  with  the  ratification 
of  the  Oregon  Treaty,  stopped  at  Liverpool  for  a  "  spree."  Our 
Minister,  after  hearing  of  his  arrival,  waited  three  days  and  then 
sent  to  Liverpool ;  he  was  there  found  in  a  low  groggery,  beastly 
intoxicated,  with  the  treaty  in  his  pocket.  In  Italy,  President 
Polk's  brother  disgraced  the  country  and  himself,  if  possible.  In 
addition  to  his  other  peccadilloes,  he  was  in  the  habit  of  driving  in 
the  "  Cliiaja^^  with  the  notorious  "women  of  the  town;"  and 
the  man  sent  to  succeed  him,  I  heard,  was  drunk  all  the  time  he 
was  there,  besides  lots  of  others  I  could  mention. 

The  Emperor  is  most  capricious  in  his  actions  and  movements ; 
as  an  instance  of  one,  a  few  nights  since,  returning  from  a  naval 
review  at  Cronstadt,  the  whim  seized  him  to  order  out  the  cadets. 
So  off  he  went,  ten  o'clock  at  night,  to  the  camp,  and  had  them 
out  for  a  sham  fight ;  the  whole  five  or  six  thousand — poor  little 
devils — ^had  to  turn  out  and  tumble  out  the  best  way  they  could, 
and  go  at  it.  A  gentleman  told  me  he  was  returning  from  a  late 
dinner,  and  found  himself  in  the  midst  of  aides,  guards,  and  Cos- 
sacks, flying  about  at  full  speed,  singly  or  in  squadrons,  and 
cannon  thundering  in  every  direction. 


THE   ROYAL    FAMILY   OF   RUSSIA.  33 

All  the  papers  undergo  tlie  strictest  censorship ;  while  obnox- 
ious articles  are  cut  out  of  the  few  foreign  papers  which  are 
admitted.  Yesterday  I  was  in  wonderful  good  luck ;  having 
been  invited  by  our  Consul  to  dine  with  him  at  Peterhoif,  which 
is  one  of  the  imperial  summer  residences,  and  in  the  environs  the 
seats  of  many  gentlemen.  Arriving  by  water  we  took  dros- 
keys ;  first  drove  through  the  grounds  of  Peter  the  Great's  villa 
(for  the  imperial  residences  here  are  nothing  more),  a  plain  low 
brick  building,  but  with  beautiful  grounds  extending  to  the  bank 
of  the  bay.  The  house  is  near  the  bank  with  a  stone  wall  along 
the  border;  then  passed  the  present  imperial  villa,  (which  is 
strictly  private  when  occupied  by  the  family,)  to  the  palace,  so 
called  from  being  the  largest ;  on  reaching  this  we  found  all  the 
imperial  droskeys  and  calashes,  with  the '  Circassian  attendants, 
in  waiting ;  so,  by  advice  of  the  Consul,  dismissed  the  carriages 
for  a  short  time,  and  took  a  good  position  about  fifty  feet  distant 
in  front  of  the  steps,  and  waited ;  they  all  came  out  in  very  few 
minutes,  Emperor,  Empress,  Prince  Royal,  his  two  younger 
brothers  (17  and  19),  Grand  Duchess  Olga,  their  sister,  and  three 
or  four  Russian  and  German  Princes  and  Princesses.  The 
Emperor  is  very  fine  looking,  as  is  the  eldest  son,  who  is  the 
exact  counterpart  of  his  father,  except  in  the  fire  and  energy.  The 
men  all  had  on  the  long  military  cloaks,  without  which  an  officer 
is  never  seen,  even  in  the  warmest  weather.  We  had  ten 
minutes'  view  of  them,  and  stood  uncovered  ;  which  they  acknow- 
ledged, the  Emperor  and  Princes  by  the  military  salute,  the 
Empress  and  Princesses  bowing.  The  Emperor  helped  the 
Empress  (who  is  very  infirm  and  in  bad  health),  and  Grand 
Duchess  Olga  (who  is  very  good  looking,  and  was  very  hand- 
some, now  about  twenty-eight),  into  the  calash ;  took  the  foot- 
man's place  behind,  and  all  drove  off.  While  driving  through  the 
park  had  another  view  of  the  Prince  Royal  and  Princess.  The 
palace  stands  on  a  hill  with  a  fine  view  of  the  bay  and  Cronstadt 
in  sight.  On  the  terraced  slope  a  succession  of  fountains,  like 
Yersailles,  form  a  canal  three  or  four  hundred  yards  distant,. 

3 


34  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

"which  divides  a  belt  of  trees  that  skirt  the  shore,  making  a 
pretty  and  wide  vista  of  the  bay.  The  other  palaces  are  gems ; 
the  Duke  of  Leuchtenburg's  (son  of  Eug(ine  Beauharnais,  and 
brother  of  the  Queen  of  Sweden)  we  also  visited.  It  was  a  pre- 
sent from  his  father-in-law,  the  Ernperor.  Everything  is  exqui- 
sitely beautiful.  The  grounds,  instead  of  being  in  lawn,  form 
principally  a  garden  admirably  kept.  Beyond,  a  lawn,  with 
pleasant  walks  intersected  with  small  streams,  is  seen.  The 
country  is  nearly  level ;  all  the  grounds  of  the  imperial  family 
contain  statuary,  summer-houses,  vases,  and  seats, — all  of  marble. 
In  the  Duke's  there  is  a  beautiful  little  Eussian  cottage  (a  play- 
house for  the  children),  a  surprise  of  the  Emperor,  who  had  the 
materials  brought  and  building  finished  in  one  night.  He  is  said 
to  be  very  fond  of  his  family,  and  never  happier  than  Avhen  sur- 
rounded by  them  wath  his  grandchildren  pulling  him  about. 

Visited  the  villa  of  the  Empress  on  an  island  in  an  artificial 
lake,  the  model  of  one  she  lived  in  at  Naples  a  few  years  ago  ; 
then  the  villa  of  the  Grand  Duchess  Olga,  in  the  same  lake. 
We  there  saw  the  Emperor  and  his  sons  reviewing  the  cadets — 
dined  with  the  Consul  and  went  to  see  them  attack  a  fort,  but 
the  early  departure  of  the  steamboat  prevented  our  seeing  the 
finale.  We  heard  the  Emperor  "blowing"  them  up  most 
savagely.  We  passed  some  four  thousand  men  marching  to  the 
camp  for  the  grand  review,  soon  to  take  place ;  the  men  were  tall 
and  marching  to  lively  songs.  I'm  told  the  Emperor  takes  good 
-care  of  them,  and  punishes  his  officers  severely  if  they  fail  to 
do  so.  On  the  return  from  the  Hungarian  campaign  he  degraded 
one  of  his  generals  to  the  ranks,  for  peculations  on  the  men. 
The  knout  is  said  to  be  abolished ;  the  severest  punishment  in  the 
army,  and  a  substitute  for  capital  punishment,  is  running  the 
gauntlet,  resorted  to  in  extreme  cases,  as  in  mutiny,  desertion, 
or  murder.  The  culprit,  with  two  long  poles  under  his  arms, 
the  ends  supported  by  soldiers,  marches  between  a  double  line 
of  comrades  each  supplied  with  a  rod,  who  strike  him  as  he 
passes :  if  the  wretch  survives  he  is  sent  to  Siberia.     The  taxes 


VISIT  TO  THE   ISAAC   CHURCH.  35 

of  tlie  nobles  are  partially  paid  by  furnisliing  serfs,  who,  after 
serving  seven  years,  have  their  option  of  leaving  as  free  men,  or 
of  remaining  with  the  chance  of  becoming  officers;  thus  they 
nominally  have  a  very  good  time,  and  I  doubt  if  the  "  devil  is 
quite  as  black  as  he  is  painted." 

The  Emperor  is  fine  looking,  tall,  and  stout,  with  a  severe 
expression,  appearing  better  on  foot  than  on  horse,  as  he  does  not 
ride  very  well. 

I've  just  received  a  ticket  to  the  Isaac  Church  and  Hermi- 
tage Palace.  The  former  will  be,  internally,  the  most  magnificent 
in  the  world  when  completed;  though  not  as  large  as  some 
others.  It  has  been  twelve  years  in  building,  and  it  may  be 
finished  in  three  or  four  more.  The  interior  will  be  entirely  of 
scagliola,  plaster  frescoed,  rare  valuable  marbles,  and  malachite. 
There  are  to  be  five  fluted  columns  fifty  feet  high,  by  five  in 
diameter  of  malachite  (veneered) ;  I  saw  one  that  was  finished, 
also  several  parts  of  the  church  completed.  The  entire  building 
was  occupied  by  scafiblding,  and  formed  our  sightseeing  prome- 
nade. As  we  made  our  spiral  ascent  to  the  dome,  a  distance  of 
two  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  passing  five  granite  columns,  and 
all  kinds  of  most  elaborate  work  in  marble,  porphyry,  fresco, 
gigantic  gilded  figures,  vases  and  cornices  of  "rose  antique,"  or 
almost  equally  beautiful  scagliola.  Imagination  in  her  dreamy 
or  lofty  flights,  can  scarce  conceive  aught  more  beautifully 
exquisite  in  the  form  of  a  church.  Fortune  again  favoring  us,  we 
were  allowed  to  visit  the  exterior  summit  of  the  dome  (thanks 
to  the  courtesy  of  an  official  we  met  in  the  church).  After 
multifarious  twistings  and  contortions  of  body  and  legs,  until 
nature  herself  must  fain  have  admired  the  pliability  of  her 
handiwork,  though  I  feared  I  never  should  get  into  proper 
shape  again,  or  even  know  when  I  approximated  to  it,  I  had  got 
accustomed  to  so  many  shapes.  In  our  passage  through  such 
varied,  narrow,  low,  dark,  and  winding  ways,  barely  sufficing 
for  a  child,  much  less  for  four  such  difierent  figures,  tall,  short, 
stout,  and  thin ;  on  reaching  the  summit,  counted  and  found  our 


36  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

stoui  man  missing,  having  got  wedged  on  the  way.  I've  rarely 
seen  a  more  beautiful  view  to  make  one  oblivious  to  wrenchings 
of  body,  or  vexations  of  mind.  All  St.  Petersburg  lay  at  our 
feet,  with  its  stately  palaces,  glittering  domes  and  minarets, 
monuments,  and  multitudes  of  immense  public  buildings,  with 
the  Neva,  sweeping  beneath,  spanned  by  beautiful  bridges,  wash- 
ing in  its  sluggish  course  the  walls  of  the  gloomy  citadel,  within 
which  are  subterranean  dungeons  for  state  prisoners,  for  whom, 
once  in,  "hope  takes  its  flight."  In  the  distance,  numerous 
small  villages,  the  bay,  Peterhoff,  and  Cronstadt  are  visible.  The 
roof  is  so  vast,  two  regiments  of  horse  might  manoeuvre.  The 
form  is  the  Greek  cross  with  four  porticoes  or  fa§ades,  supported 
in  front  and  rear  by  double,  and  sides  by  single  rows  of  columns 
of  polished  red  granite,  sixty  feet  high  by  seven  in  diameter, 
with  perfect  Corinthian  caps  of  bronze.  Each  front  has  a  beau- 
tiful alto-relievo  in  bronze ;  after  which  we  visited  the  "  Hermi- 
tage," so  called  by  Catharine,  and  used  by  her  when  retiring  from 
the  cares  of  state, — now  a  show  palace,  and  almost  rivalling  the 
scenes  of  the  Arabian  Nights  in  its  varied  beauties — rarest 
marbles  and  malachite  made  common  by  their  profusion — suites 
of  rooms,  walled,  panelled,  or  j^illared  with  them,  mosaic  and 
tesselated  floors  of  inconceivably  fine  work — immense  tables 
and  vases  of  malachite,  "rose  antique,"  with  rare  marbles  from 
Siberia :  one  vase  a  perfect  swimming  bath,  ten  by  twenty  feet 
— the  picture  gallery  one  of  the  most  superb  in  Europe,  and 
excelling  all  others  in  Claudes — the  library  the  most  extensive  in 
northern  Europe — among  its  treasures  Yoltaire's  collection. 

In  my  flight  from  Wall  Street,  I  thought  I  had  left  law  and 
code  behind ;  but  to-day,  was  agreeably  surprised  to  meet  my 
most  esteemed  friend  and  townsman,  our  brilliant  Codifier,  who, 
with  his  family,  had  just  been  visiting  the  "midnight  sun,"  and 
like  myself  are  winging  their  way  to  the  lands  of  the  "crescent 
and  the  cross." 

The  winter  is  the  season  of  Russian  gaiety.  With  weather 
so  cold,  the  mercury  is  seriously  meditating  a  retirement  through 


Ski'tclied  by  the  Author.  See  page  49. 

ESCAPE   OF   PETER  THE   GREAT   AND  BROTHER   FROM  THE  3TRELITZE3   INTO 

TROITZKA   MONASTERY. 


A  FETE  IN  A  BURIAL-GROUND.  37 

the  bottom  of  the  bulb,  and  the  few  people  who  do  promenade 
the  streets,  typical  of  their  own  polar  bears.  Then  society,  with 
an  inverse  ratio  to  the  temperature  without,  effervesces  with 
excitement  into  balls,  operas,  and  the  hundred  varied  gaieties 
of  a  brilliant  capital.  But  to  us,  of  milder  latitudes,  the  summer 
is  the  season  of  our  enjoyments,  preferring  the  external  sights  to 
the  social  ones. 

August  loih. — To-day  our  Charge,  friend,  and  self  drove  to 
the  grand  burial-ground,  the  specialite  there  being  a  grand  jol- 
lification over  the  bones  of  relatives ;  an  annual  ftte  (proba- 
bly originating  from  some  grateful  spendthrift  paying  a  yearly 
homage  to  the  departed  remains  of  kindi'ed  who  had  bestowed 
upon  him  his  hoarded  wealth,  as  all  fashions  take  their  rise  in 
some  leader  of  "  ifon,"  who  is  anxious  to  exhibit  or  conceal  some 
beauty,  grace,  deformity,  or  defect),  when  every  man,  woman, 
and  child  comes  and  spends  the  day,  feasting,  rioting,  and  becom- 
ing oblivious,  often  passing  the  night  here.  They  spread  a  table- 
cloth on  the  tablet,  if  one  there  be ;  if  not,  then  on  a  table  over 
the  grave,  and  unloading  their  hampers  of  provisions  "  make  a 
day  of  it."  The  common  people  get  up  tea-houses  to  make  tea, 
that  being  their  favorite  drink,  as  coffee  is  in  Paris,  beer  in 
England,  and  brandy-and-water  in  America,  Here  are  seen 
rich  and  poor,  high  and  low,  officials  civil  and  military,  beggars 
by  the  hundreds  and  thousands.  In  the  midst  of  this  feasting,  I 
saw  a  family  come  in,  the  father  with  a  cofl&n  under  one  arm 
and  spade  in  hand,  while  behind  followed  the  wife  and  children 
with  monument,  hamper  of  provisions,  and  liquor. 

In  the  afternoon,  drove  through  the  suburbs  to-  see  the  islands 
and  graceful  villas  of  the  nobility. 

IQth^  Sunday. — Attended  church  at  the  factory,  which  is  Epis- 
copal. The  other  is  called  the  American  church,  for  no  reason 
that  I  can  learn,  other  than  that  it  has  a  Presbyterian  minister, 
and  he  is  English.     Have  just  visited  the  Foundhng  Asylum, 


38  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

said  to  be  the  best  in  the  world  after  that  at  Moscow.  Saw 
three  hundred  babies  squalhng,  kicking,  and  breakfasting ; 
others  juveniles,  up  to  sixteen  and  seventeen.  There  are  about 
four  thousand  children  connected  with  the  institution.  Most  of 
them  are  in  the  country.  They  educate  the  girls  for  the  stage, 
or  to  become  teachers  or  governesses,  according  to  their  peculiar 
talents.  The  boys  for  teachers,  army,  or  civil  service.  I  only 
saw  the  girls.  We  went  through  about  half  the  building,  which 
is  on  an  immense  scale.  Everything  is  in  the  most  perfect 
order,  and  excessively  neat.  The  Imperial  family  often  visit  it. 
We  heard  about  three  hundred  sing  the  blessing  for  dinner. 

11th,  Tuesday. — Visited  the  fortress  and  church ;  (the  latter  is 
the  imperial  mausoleum,)  and  also  Peter  the  Great's  house.  To- 
day the  Winter  Palace,  the  largest  building  in  the  world.  One 
apartment  called  the  golden  room,  its  furniture  and  ornaments 
gilded  or  malachite,  of  which  were  table  tops,  two  mantels,  and 
candelabra.  The  jewel  room  is  perfectly  dazzling  with  the 
crown,  regalia,  etc.  Here  is  the  largest  diamond  in  the  civilized 
world,  except  the  one  lately  brought  to  England.  There  were 
hundreds  of  necklaces,  bracelets,  and  head  ornaments,  all  of 
most  brilliant  diamonds,  rubies,  emeralds,  and  sapphires ;  fans, 
the  handles  covered  with  them  ;  snuff-boxes  brilliant  with  gold 
and  jewels ;  and  beautiful  canes  with  heads  of  precious  stones. 

15^/i. — I  have  just  returned  from  Tzarsko-Celo,  Catharine's 
famous  country  palace  —  seven  hundred  feet  in  front,  and 
unique  in  its  arrangements.  The  walls  of  one  room  covered 
with  amber,  others  with  draperies  of  blue  and  gold,  everything 
lavishly  splendid.  The  grounds  the  handsomest  I  have  seen  m 
Europe,  with  the  exception  of  fountains,  which  form  a  j)romi- 
nent  part  in  most  palace  parks.  From-  the  palace  to  Paulolfsk 
Gardens,  and  saw  fine  fireworks  and  music.  This  being  a  great 
festival  day  (these  festival  days  come  about  five  times  a  week, 
to  the  great  detriment  of  business,  to  take  a  practical  view)  of 
course  multitudes  of  people,  and  some  pretty  faces,  were  out. 


A  REVIEW.  39 

On  Monday,  with  a  New  York  acquaintance,  who  in  his  loco- 
motive style  has  overtaken  us,  we  shall  start  for  Moscow. 

Although  in  the  early  part  of  August,  the  weather  is  very- 
cold,  and  so  changeable  nobody  moves  without  an  overcoat: 
like  the  English  habit  of  carrying  an  umbrella,  which  they 
almost  take  to  bed  with  them,  for  fear  of  its  raining  before 
morning. 

To-day  have  been  inspecting  the  beautiful  shops,  and  collect- 
ing souvenirs,  for  sight  or  use,  malachite,  and  such  like  rarities. 

Tired  and  provoked,  I  sit  down  to  tell  my  day's  work.  Last 
evening  our  Consul  kindly  sent  us  word  he  had  learned,  from 
good  authority,  the  grand  review  was  to  come  off  to-day  at 
Krassnacelo,  and  invited  us  to  drive  over  to  Peterhoff,  and  dine 
with  him  afterwards.  As  the  review  was  to  commence  at  seven, 
and  we  had  a  drive  of  twenty  miles  before  us,  we  were  up  at 
half -past  two,  dressed,  arranged  a  hamper  of  lunch,  my  New 
Orleans  and  New  York  friend,  "  stupid,"  and  self  stowed  away  in 
the  carriage,  and  we  started  with  thi'ee  horses,  on  a  full  gallop. 
Eeached  the  place,  breakfasted  as  circumstances  (of  bad  and 
scanty  prog)  at  the  tavern  allowed,  and  then  on  the  ground  by 
eight,  having  received  here  the  gratifying  information  that  there 
was  not  to  be  a  review ;  only  a  manoeuvre  of  the  troops,  about 
twelve  or  fifteen  miles  distant,  and  that  if  we  took  a  certain  po- 
sition would  be  able  to  see  them  return.  So  we  did  as  advised ; 
waited  and  waited,  until  our  patience  was  well-nigh  exhausted, 
hearing  the  firing  of  musketry  and  guns,  but  not  able  to  go 
there,  as  no  inducement  would  make  our  driver  move  his  horses  ; 
it  was  "  Russian  fashion  to  give  the  horses  four  hours  to  feed, 
and  they  had  had  only  two" — then  his  carriage  might  be  bro- 
ken! At  last  we  saw  the  troops  approach  and  pass,  eighteen 
thousand  horse,  and  forty  thousand  infantry ;  Cossacks,  Circas- 
sians, Russians,  Finns,  and  I  don't  know  what  else,  composed 
this  omnium  gatherum : — for  one  requires  a  private  memorandum 
book  to  occasionally  refresh  the  memory  with  the  various  na- 
tions and  tribes  this  annexing  government  has  taken  under  its 


40  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

protecting  wing.  Just  then,  two  officers  approached  leading 
their  horses ;  so  we  did  the  American  civility,  and  asked  them 
to  stop  and  take  a  "  drink,"  ascertained  from  them  there  had  been 
manosuvres  which  were  over  for  the  day.  So  we  harnessed  up, 
and  promised  our  driver  an  extra  "  vodka"  (drink)  if  he  got  us 
to  Peterhoff  (fifteen  miles  distant)  in  good  season.  He  whipped 
up  and  went  off  singing,  much  to  our  amazement.  Just  then 
seeing  a  regiment  of  "Life  Guards"  about  to  cross  into  the  road 
ahead  of  us,  whipped  up,  and  yelling  and  flogging,  as  if  mad, 
went  cutting  and  slashing  through  the  regiment  for  about  two 
miles,  while  we  were  terribly  afraid  of  getting  into  trouble. 
But  nothing  would  stop  him,  and  we  found  that  he  had  been 
libating  rather  too  freely,  while  his  horses  had  been  eating  four 
hours,  after  Eussian  fashion.  At  last  we  reached  Peterhoif,  and 
right  glad  too ;  for,  after  the  first  excitement  wore  off,  our  driver 
was  half  the  time  asleep.  When  we  did  reach  there,  were  so 
covered  with  dust  we  went  on  board  the  steamer  and  returned 
to  St.  Petersburg. 

17^/i,  Sunday. — Attended  service  in  the  Greek  church  this 
morning,  wishing  to  hear  their  fine  music,  especially  the  chants. 
More  miserable  mockery  and  idolatry  I  have  never  witnessed, 
even  among  the  lowest  order  of  Roman  Catholics.  Every  one 
stands,  or  stands  and  kneels,  for  it  is  about  half  and  half.  As 
they  are  not  allowed  to  worship  images,  the  church  is  hung 
in  every  part  with  small  pictures  of  the  Virgin  and  Saviour,  or 
saints;  every  portion  but  the  face  covered  with  tinsel,  before 
which  are  numerous  sockets,  usually  kept  filled  with  lighted 
candles,  furnished  by  the  devotees  who  throng  the  church  hourly ; 
on  entering  buy  a  candle,  light  it,  and  place  it  in  "the  first  empty 
socket,  or  else  hand  it  to  the  priest,  who  places  it  in  a  receptacle, 
which,  when  full,  is  sent  back  to  the  door  for  the  benefit  of 
other  purchasers.  Every  one  in  passing  a  picture,  crosses  him- 
self or  herself,  and  is  supposed  to  "patter"  a  prayer,  be  they 
high,  low,  rich,  or  poor,  from  the  imperial  princes  to  the  humble 


SERVICE   IN  THE   GREEK   CHURCH.  41 

drosky  driver,  who  will  stop,  cross  himself  a  dozen  times,  mutter 
Ms  prayer,  then  turn  and  cheat  you.  The  service  was  performed 
by  a  disgusting  looking  priest  (with  long  hair  reaching  to  his 
shoulders — their  custom,  each  hair  appearing  to  stand  alone  on 
its  own  account) ;  assisted  by  several  venerables,  who  followed 
their  prepossessing  leader  in  mumblings  and  crossings.  Then 
the  choir  relieved  us  from  this  tedious,  senseless  mummery,  by 
some  fine  music;  after  which  the  priest  drawled  out  a  sen- 
tence, looked  at  the  figure,  and  with  his  assistants  crossed  himself. 
Then  succeeded,  alternately,  music,  mumblings,  and  genuflexions, 
for  two  hours;  the  people,  mostly  men,  bowing,  crossing,  and 
pattering  prayers,  with  every  five  minutes  a  genuflexion  of  the 
neck  (to  Hibernicise),  as  well  as  of  the  "  pedestals  "  in  order  to 
touch  their  forehead  to  the  pavement.  A  fine-looking  old  gen- 
tleman, who  stood  near  me,  seeing  I  was  a  stranger,  entering  into 
conversation,  asked  where  I  was  from,  where  bound  to,  etc.,  then 
explained  several  of  the  ceremonies,  one  in  particular,  that  struck 
me  very  oddly,  i.  e.  of  children  only  about  six  months  old,  taking 
the  Sacrament,  which  I  saw.  Then  he  continued  his  crossings, 
prayers,  and  kneelings.  One  old  fellow  could  not  perform  quite 
so  easily  this  "  religion  culbutant "  (as  Chateaubriand  terms  it,  in 
speaking  of  the  Turks  and  Egyptians),  "whipped  the  devil  round 
the  stump  "  by  touching  his  finger  first  to  the  floor  and  then  his 
forehead.  After  the  service  was  finished,  great  numbers  went 
up  and  kissed  the  feet  of  the  figure  in  the  picture.  They  never 
have  preaching  in  the  Grreek  church. 

Moscow,  August  Tltli. — Before  starting  for  Moscow,  we  had 
collected  our  various  souvenirs  ;  one  of  mine,  a  wood-carrier  on  a 
malachite  vase.  They  are  the  most  common  objects  here.  The 
costume,  as  you  will  perceive,  is  very  simple,  merely  shirt  and 
trowsers,  shirt  outside — their  unsophisticated  way  of  wearing  it, 
and  the  bottoms  of  the  trowsers  loosely  tucked  in  a  pair  of  high 
boots,  which  every  man  has.  When  anything  is  worn  over  the 
shirt,  it  is  for  a  drosky  driver — a  long  blue  cloth  gown,  plaited 


42  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

at  the  waist,  and  confined  by  a  belt ;  but  ordinarily  only  a  sheep- 
skin overcoat,  fur  inside,  dirty  and  greasy  as  agreeable.  At  half- 
past  four,  my  Southern,  New  York  friend,  and  I,  with  our  "traps" 
and  baskets  of  eatables,  started  in  three  droskys  for  the  Moscow 
Diligence,  where  we  were  stowed  two  and  two,  my  travelling 
friend  from  the  South  and  self  in  the  coup6,  with  our  carpet-bags, 
coats,  cloaks,  books,  and  hamper  of  eatables  and  drinkables,  all 
so  tightly  packed,  that  we  never  should  have  got  out  before 
reaching  Moscow,  had  there  not  luckily  been  a  door  on  either 
side.  Our  Irish  friends  came  down,  to  be  able  more  clearly  to 
anticipate  their  approaching  misery,  and  bid  us  good  by,  and 
give  their  cards,  if  we  should  not  meet  in  Moscow,  to  visit  their 
houses  and  clubs  in  Ireland  and  London  on  our  return.  With 
lingering  look  "at  what  we  ne'er  might  see  again,"  we  bid  adieu 
to  St.  Petersburg. 

Our  vehicle,  a  long  lumbering  machine  with  four  apartments, 
was  hurried  along  by  four  scraggy-looking  ponies,  and  a  driver 
in  the  usual  dirty  sheep-skin  coat.  We  travelled  night  and  day, 
only  stopping  occasionally  to  get  a  cup  of  tea  (Tchai),  and  twice, 
at  famous  places,  for  chicken  cutlets.  The  tea  (which  is  better 
in  Eussia  than  any  other  place  out  of  China)  was  always  good, 
though  the  appearance  of  the  taverns  and  domestics  rather  pre- 
judicial to  any  appetite,  but  one  augmented  by  twelve  to  twenty 
hours  of  Diligence  travel.  Tea,  in  its  voyage  from  China,  is 
injured  by  what  is  termed  the  sweating  process,  which  it  under- 
goes in  the  confined  holds  of  the  ships,  and  avoids  in  its  over- 
land caravan  journeys  from  China,  which,  though  rendering 
it  much  dearer,  at  the  same  time  gives  you  a  better  article. 
Around  every  station  were  collected  a  dozen  or  more,  dirty, 
quarrelsome  ruffians,  in  these  same  sheep-skin  overcoats.  At 
night,  found  them  lying  on  the  ground,  stoops  of  houses,  or 
in  the  corners  of  the  yards  on  straw,  like  pigs.  The  appearance 
of  the  houses  on  the  way  to  Moscow,  impressed  me  favorably. 
Many  of  them  with  very  fanciful  cornices,  window  frames,  and 
galleries.     Most  of  them  are  built  of  logs,  with  the  gable  ends  to 


APPROACH  TO   MOSCOW.  43 

the  road;  none  were  painted.  The  fields  indicated  abundant 
harvests.  We  passed  thousands  of  acres  of  grain  and  flax  ;  like 
those  of  France, — rarely  divided  by  fences.  Saw  immense  num- 
bers of  fine  cattle,  either  grazing  or  being  driven  to  market 
(mostly  white  and  dun,  a  few  red): — tedious  operation,  occu- 
pying six  months, — a  business  which  the  railroad,  when  com- 
pleted, will  engross,  hurrying  them  to  market  in  a  few  hours. 
The  sheep,  of  which  we  saw  many,  are  small,  usually  black  or 
mixed.  The  farming  implements  are  of  the  roughest  description. 
Passed  immense  numbers  of  waggons  carrying  loads  to  St. 
Petersburg ;  some  trains  consisting  of  twenty,  one  of  thirty -three. 
The  railroad  is  nearly  completed ;  the  Emperor  will  use  it  in  Ms 
trip  to  Moscow  in  a  few  days,  for  the  first  time.  The  country, 
for  the  most  part,  very  flat,  and  monotonous  scenery.  The  only 
objects  besides  the  log-houses — the  green  domes  of  the  churches. 
The  priests  must  have  exercised  a  very  powerful  influence  to 
have  erected  so  many,  and  mostly  are  very  large  ;  however,  the 
religion  is  a  national  one,  and  the  people  are  fanatic. 

Emerging  from  a  small  wood  on  the  third  afternoon,  Moscow 
broke  upon  us,  with  its  hundreds,  almost  thousands,  of  domes 
and  minarets,  delighting  us  nearly  as  much  as  it  did  Napoleon 
when  he  first  beheld  them  from  the  Sparrow  Hills,  on  our  right. 
Landing  and  receiving  our  passports,  we  were  hurried  and  tum- 
bled, with  our  luggage,  into  droskys,  and  galloping  off  to  Mr. 
Howard's  (the  Enghsh  boarding-house)  in  the  shortest  possible 
time,  where  we  are  quartered,  and  the  only  lodgers. 

This  evening,  while  dining,  our  valet-de-place  came  in ;  a 
young  Anglo-Muscovite — ^a  veritable  John  Smith,  to  our  amaze- 
ment, when  his  name  was  announced.  Having  arranged  mat- 
ters for  to-morrow,  we  retire  with  pleasant  anticipations  of  Mos- 
cow, so  "bon  nuit" — the  "bon  repas"  I  shall  doubtless  take 
long  before  you  can  wish  it. 

August  22>d. — Yesterday  paid  the  famed  Kremlin  a  visit.  It  is 
the  citadel  of  Moscow  and  probably  a  mile  in  circuit,  surrounded 


44  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASmiERE. 

by  high  walls,  outside  of  which  stands  the  old  city  of  Moscow, 
the  walls  of  which  are  gone  and  only  gates  left ;  outside  of  this 
again  are  the  suburbs  or  the  greater  part  of  the  present  city.  In 
the  Kremlin  are  the  old  and  new  palaces,  treasury,  armory  or 
powder  magazine,  and  the  three  oldest  churches.  None  of  these 
buildings  were  burned  in  1812 ;  the  oldest  contains  the  bodies 
of  most  of  the  Idngs  and  emperors  to  the  time  of  Peter  the 
Great.  Some  few  of  the  church  ornaments  are  five  hundred 
years  old ;  the  grand  one  is  where  the  Emperor  was  crowned,  his 
chair  was  in  the  treasury — that  of  his  predecessors  looked  like 
a  moderate-sized  bed  with  curtains,  as  did  also  that  of  the  patri- 
archs. This  church  holds,  besides  the  remains  of  many  of  its 
early  sovereigns,  wonderful  relics, — among  them  a  garment  of  our 
Saviour  (what  article  of  dress  I  did  not  learn),  but  suffice  to 
say  they  are  the  "Simon  Pures,"  and  those  old  hypocrites  at 
Treves  have  been  humbugging  the  world  for  two  or  three  centu- 
ries with  their  imaginary  veritables.  Also  a  veritable  nail 
from  the  cross,  and  we  could  have  seen  some  of  the  fiesh  had  I 
desired  it.  One  old  patriarch  was  packed  away  in  his  coffin 
with  a  hand  exposed,  which  the  devotees  were  kissing  in  most 
ecstatic  raptures.  The  pictures  were  hung  round  with  dia- 
monds, gifts  of  royalty  and  nobility.  The  patriarch  allowed  us 
to  visit  the  robe-room  ;  the  dresses  were  magnificently  embroid- 
ered in  gold  and  silver  thread,  many  almost  covered  with  pearls 
fi'om  the  size  of  the  head  of  a  large  pin,  to  a  large  pea,  and  some 
as  large  as  a  wren's  egg,  besides  diamonds,  rubies,  and  emeralds ; 
on  their  crosses  were  beautiful  stones.  There  were  also  two  large 
bronze  kettles  to  boil  the  sacred  oil  for  baptism,  and  an  immense 
vase  to  deposit  it  in  when  prepared — also  several  hundred  silver 
dishes,  goblets,  vases,  and  pictures,  part  of  the  patriarch's  sur- 
vice ;  then  various  old  bibles  and  testaments  with  divers  merits, 
ages,  illuminations,  and  languages.  We  then  indulged  the  femi- 
nine passion,  and  did  some  shopping  in  the  Persian  bazaar. 

To-day  drove  out  with  a  Eussian  friend  to  see  the  manoeuvres. 
There  were  eight  or  ten  of  the  crack  regiments  of  guards,  hus- 


Sketched  by  the  Author. 


TARANTAS   TRAVl'XLING,    EUi^SIA. 


See  page  51. 


A  KAMBLE  THKOUGH  MOSCOW.  45 

sars,  and  lancers,  besides  a  regiment  or  two  of  artillery  and  ten 
or  twelve  of  infantry.  The  sight  was  beautiful,  and  the  appa- 
rently eccentric  evolutions  of  the  artillery  kept  our  driver  in 
constant  motion.  Once  getting  on  the  other  side  of  a  ditch,  we 
supposed  we  should  then  be  quite  safe,  and  scarcely  the  thought 
passed  through  our  minds,  when,  as  if  we  were  the  imaginary 
enemy,  down  thundered  the  artillery  horses  and  carriages,  all 
taking  the  ditches  "  flying,"  and  we  scampering  off  at  telegraphic 
speed.  Eeturning  to  the  city  we  drove  through  the  Peterskoi 
Park ;  old  Peter's  palace  is  a  curiously  constructed  affair,  of  red 
brick,  and  Byzantine  order.  "We  could  not  get  in,  as  everything 
was  preparing  for  the  approaching  visit  of  the  Emperor  next 
week ;  then  to  the  Kremlin  to  again  see  the  outside  of  the  new 
palace,  which,  being  of  stucco,  and  with  its  fresh  coat  of  yellow 
wash,  looks  very  fine — all  of  the  white  and  yellow  washers  are 
performing  their  annual  duty.  Instead  of  painting  their  houses 
occasionally,  as  we  do,  every  house  takes  its  periodical  coat  of 
white,  grey,  brown,  or  yellow  wash.  The  view  of  the  city  is 
very  fine  from  this  side.  I  counted  seventy-seven  churches^ 
domes,  and  spires,  besides  multitudes  of  monasteries  and  con- 
vents ;  after  which  walked  through  the  gardens  and  along  the 
banks  of  the  Mosqua  river.  Saw  some  of  the  immense  flat- 
boats,  from  two  to  three  hundred  feet  in  length,  by  about  sixty 
in  width,  in  which  they  bring  wood  from  a  thousand  miles  in  the 
interior — then  through  the  old  town  stores,  a  succession  of  small 
shops  under  one  roof,  and  very  like  market-stalls,  with  two  or 
more  children  to  each,  standing  outside  and  inviting  indiscrimi- 
nately to  buy ;  the  money-changers  with  piles  of  loose  silver 
lying  on  their  open  counters — the  people  have  a  sort  of  rogue's 
honor  towards  each  other.  Passing  these  untouched  they 
would  pick  my  pockets  without  the  least  hesitation.  In  these 
miniature  shops  you  often  see  the  richest  and  most  valuable 
jewelry.  Further  on,  the  wholesale  department  of  rich  goods  of 
which  the  only  indications  are  barred  windows,  and  a  dull  dirty 
look,  like  a  feed  store  on  a  Monday  morning.     Between  the 


46  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

outer  and  inner  barrier  there  is  a  space  of  a  few  feet  in  width, 
along  which  a  rope  is  stretched ;  on  it  are  rings  running  short 
distances,  and  to  these  rings  dogs  with  short  ropes  are  attached, 
with  rope  enough  for  a  patrol  but  not  near  enough  to  fight. 

Saw  the  Grand  Patriarch  of  the  Greek  church  pass  with  coach 
and  four  this  morning ;  this  afternoon  we  all  went  to  the  Semi- 
noff  Monastery,  a  drive  of  four  miles ;  it  is  a  fortress-like  build- 
ing within  high  walls,  where  are  also  other  buildings  besides  the 
chapel  or  church.  My  travelling  friend  had  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  Mclchisedec  the  patriarch.  On  reaching  this  and  inquir- 
ing for  him  found  he  had  been  promoted  to  a  higher  post,  so, 
resolute  not  to  be  disappointed,  my  friend  sent  in  his  card 
with  the  guide  to  the  present  one,  who  immediately  sent  out 
word  he  would  be  very  glad  to  see  all  of  us, — so  we  all  went  in 
"to  see  the  elephant." 

He  was  a  fine-looking  old  gentleman,  with  most  benevolent 
expression,  with  the  long  beard,  moustache,  and  hair  which  they 
all  wear.  We  made  him  a  visit  of  nearly  an  hour,  when  he 
appeared  very  reluctant  to  have  us  leave,  being  exceedingly 
anxious  to  hear  about  the  United  States;  but  as  it  was  near 
"vespers"  we  did  not  like  to  tresjoass  on  his  time,  as  we 
were  intending  to  hear  the  vesper  service,  when  he  very  kindly 
sent  word  to  the  priests  to  sing  from  their  notes,  and  we  thought 
he  had  an  extra  grand  flourish  of  service  for  us.  He,  as  well  as 
the  other  priests  who  performed  the  more  important  parts,  were 
very  richly  dressed  in  long  robes  beautifully  embroidered  and  in 
most  cases  the  entire  robe  covered  with  gold  and  silver;  the 
others  in  plain  black  gowns,  with  the  high  Greek  church  crape 
hat  (like  an  ordinary  hat  without  the  rim  and  immensely  bell- 
crowned)  with  a  very  large  cape  at  the  back.  We  staid  until 
nine  (two  hours,  but  the  service  lasts  imtil  twelve)  witnessing 
the  principal  parts  of  the  service,  particularly  "  the  blessing  of 
bread,"  when  the  patriarch  had  a  superb  cross  of  diamonds,  eme- 
ralds, and  rubies,  probably  worth  many  thousand  dollars.  The 
singing  was  the  finest  I've  ever  heard  in  a  church.     Some  six- 


A  RUSSIAN   HOWARD.  47 

teen  or  eighteen  monks  singing  by  turns  and  in  concert.  The 
interior  of  the  chapel  is  very  like  the  others.  An  old  fellow  near 
me,  with  a  diabolical  cut-throat  face,  who  bowed,  knelt,  and 
crossed  himself  in  most  exemplary  style,  in  the  height  of  his 
enthusiasm  chimed  in  with  a  very  fine  bass. 

August  25, — ^Yesterday  (Sunday)  morning  went  to  the  Sparrow 
Hills  to 'witness  the  departure  of  the  Exiles  to  Siberia — an  event 
that  takes  place  every  Sunday  morning,  they  being  collected 
here  from  far  distances  (even  St.  Petersburg)  for  that  purpose, 
and  sent  oft'  on  foot  in  chains  under  military  escort.  About 
eighty  started  yesterday  ;  their  clothes  and  shoes  are  examined 
before  they  set  out  to  prevent  their  carrying  any  concealed 
money,  after  which  ten  copeks  or  about  eight  cents  are  given  to 
each.  The  majority  had  a  chain  and  band  on  each  leg — the 
chain  supported  by  a  belt  around  the  waist.  Others  were  hand- 
cuffed and  attached  to  a  long  chain.  Dr.  Haas,  a  German  resi- 
dent, who  has  taken  great  interest  in  these  poor  wretches  and 
the  prisons  for  years,  and  also  by  his  benevolence  much  impo- 
verished himself,  was  present.  He  went  among  them  talking  to 
each,  and  giving  the  conducter  money  for  them.  He  is  a  kind, 
benevolent  looking  old  gentleman  of  about  seventy,  quite  tall 
and  stout,  dressed  in  small-clothes.  We  introduced  ourselves. 
He  had  a  long  conversation  with  us,  on  parting  shook  hands  and 
kissed ;  he  is  the  Howard  of  Russia.  The  spectacle  of  the  pri- 
soners was  most  melancholy,  though  they  had  generally  a  cut- 
throat aspect.  Returning  stopped  on  the  brow  of  Sparrow  Hill, 
where  Napoleon  first  viewed  Moscow,  and  a  fine  sight  it  is, 
though  proving  so  bitter  a  view  to  the  French  after  their  march 
of  two  thousand  miles. 

Returning  by  the  Kremlin,  which  is  to  Moscow  what  the 
Acropolis  was  to  Athens  and  the  Capitol  to  Rome,  surrounded  by 
lofty  walls  with  embattled  towers  and  turrets;  of  its  various 
gates  the  most  celebrated  one  is  the  "  Spass  Vorota"  (or  Gate  of 
the  Redeemer); — the  "porta  triumphalis"  of  Moscow,    Through 


48  FROIil   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

its  portals  often  Kussia's  conquering  Emperors  and  soldiers 
returned  in  triumpli,  and  all  uncover  wlio  pass  it.  Continuing 
on,  we  stopped  for  a  view  from  tlie  majestic  tower  of  Ivan  Veliki ; 
in  our  ascent  passed  a  number  of  enormous  bells,  one  of  wbicli 
was  tolling — tbis  was  about  twelve  feet  in  diameter,  tbe  man 
standing  inside  to  swing  tbe  clapper,  wbile  a  bussar,  witb  plenty 
of  room,  stood  on  tbe  opposite  side.  On  tbe  outside  of  tbe  tower, 
near  tbe  top,  a  long  bearded  fellow  was  wbitewasbing  witb  botb 
bands,  wbile  bis  only  bold  on  tbe  ladder,  wbicb  was  swinging 
witb  tbe  wind,  was  by  one  leg.  Our  companion,  a  nepbew  of 
tbe  Eussian  Ambassador  at  "Wasbington,  dined  witb  us;  and 
knowing  our  American  tastes  be  brougbt  two  fine  water-melons, 
(wbicb  tasted  as  fresb  as  if  just  picked),  tbougb  tbey  came  from 
Astrakan,  more  tban  a  tbousand  miles.  After  dinner  we  went 
to  a  famous  restaurant  to  take  "  yellow  tea,"  wbicb  costs  from 
twelve  to  twenty  dollars  a  pound. 

To-day  we  visited  tbe  new  palace,  tbrougb  tbe  courtesy  of  Mr. 
B.,  wbo  bad  obtained  an  order  from  tbe  governor.  I've  never 
seen  anytbing  equal  to  it.  Imagination  could  bardly  surpass  its 
magnificence ;  it  is  truly  an  Imperial  Palace.  Tbe  grand  stairs 
are  in  tbe  same  style,  but  not  as  fine  as  tbose  at  tbe  Hermitage. 
Tbe  vestibule  is  circular,  witb  walls  and  ceilings  beautifully 
ornamented  witb  gilding  and  fresco.  It  opens  into  tbe  Hall  of 
St.  George,  at  tbe  end  of  wbicb  we  saw  a  large  medallion  in 
plaster,  representing  tbe  killing  of  tbe  dragon.  At  tbat  end  of 
tbe  room  are  windows  opening  on  tbe  balcony,  witb  pink  cur- 
tains, wbicb  gave  a  beautiful  tint  to  tbe  room.  Tbe  cornices  are 
decorated  witb  representations  of  tbe  order  of  St.  George.  On 
tbe  marble  panels  are  tbe  names  of  tbe  various  regiments  of  tbe 
army  :  wbo  raised  tbem  and  tbe  names  of  tbe  princes  and  gene- 
rals wbo  bave  received  this  highest  order  in  Russia.  Superb 
vistas  open  on  tbe  eye,  and  tbe  bardly  less  beautiful  balls  of  St. 
Yladimer,  St.  Andrew,  and  St.  Catbarine,  witb  tbe  magnificent 
tbrone  rooms  of  Alexander  and  Nicbolas.  Tbe  canopy  and  cur- 
tains of  tbe  tbrone  are  lined  witb  ermine.     In  passing  tbrougb 


PREPARATION  FOR  A  THOUSAND  MILES'   JAUNT.  49 

the  family  rooms  "we  paused  to  gaze  on  the  splendor  of  the 
boudoir  prepared  for  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Saxe-Weimar, 
the  tables,  fire-screens,  andirons,  shovel-stand,  cover,  and  back  to 
the  fireplace  ;  looking-glass  frames,  which  were  very  heavy  and 
elaborate;  two  chandeliers  (very  large),  besides  nine  tables, 
all  of  sohd  silver ;  and  the  rest  were  covered  with  heavy  plate, 
not  less  than  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  And  then  we  went  on 
through  long  ranges  exquisitely  beautiful. 

It  being  a  grand  fete  day  we  started  for  Troitzka,  a  famous 
monastery  forty  miles  distant,  and  well  known  in  the  history  of 
Eussia  for  the  important  part  it  has  borne  at  various  times. 
One,  the  affording  refage  to  Peter  the  Great  when  his  life  was 
threatened  by  the  Strelitzes.  It  has  had  various  important 
grants  of  privileges  and  property  from  Peter  the  Great,  Catha- 
rine, and  others;  besides — the  left-handed  one — self-appropri- 
ation again  by  some  of  these  devout  but  aggrandizing  imperi- 
ahties. 

"We  have  returned  from  Troitzka  and  bought  our  tarantas  for 
the  Odessa  trip — apleasantlittlejauntof  a  thousand  miles,  which 
we  are  told  we  can  accomplish  with  good  luck,  and  no  break- 
downs, in  nine  days,  including  a  day  and  a  half  stoppage  on  the 
road.  These  tarantases  are  odd  vehicles  to  look  at,  with  a  max- 
imum of  axletrees  and  poles,  and  a  minimum  of  wheels  (in 
circumference)  and  carriage  body  ;  however,  with  our  trunks  and 
boxes  on  behind,  and  sacks,  cloaks,  cushions,  coats  to  comfort 
the  outer  man,  and  a  good  hamper  of  "  creature  comforts"  for  the 
inner  one,  a  post-office  courier  (the  best  we  could  do),  who, 
though  not  speaking  a  word  of  English  or  any  of  our  varied 
"lingos,"  struts  about  in  his  long  green  official  cloak  with 
becoming  dignity,  and  handles  his  pistol — while  we  shall  be  left 
to  our  own  minimum  to  supply  our  wants.  The  last  of  our 
complement  is  the  wild  looking  Yampschik  (postillion).  With 
all  our  arrangements  for  Odessa,  we  started  off  with  Mr.  B.  to 
see  the  grand  review  for  Prince  Paskovitch  the  Yice-King  of 
Poland,  and  since  his  Hungarian  campaign  the  second  man.  i:i. 

4 


50  FROM  "WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

the  Empire.  On  his  return,  a  gift  from  the  Emperor  was  presented 
to  him  by  one  of  the  Grand  Dukes  on  bended  knee.  There 
were  more  than  one  hundred  thousand  troops  on  review.  The 
scene  was  brilliant.  It  seemed  surprising  that  so  many  men  could, 
even  by  perfect  discipline,  be  brought  in  so  compact  a  column. 

In  this  country  every  man,  to  be  anybody,  must  be  in  the 
civil  or  military  service.     Everything  and  every  body  always 
under  the  strictest  surveillance  of  the  police.     Every  suspected 
letter  passing  through  the  post-office  is  opened  and  not  always 
sealed;    if  unimportant  is  put  back   again.      Those   going  to 
or  from  the  embassies  are  invariably  opened,  so  that  now  the 
English  embassy  wishing  to  communicate  information  as  to  their 
acts,  or  give  them  what  John  Eandolph  called  an  unintentional 
hit,  they  post  a  duplicate  despatch,  and  send  the  other  by  their 
courier,  when  the  duplicate  is  sure  to  be  read  by  Count  Nessel- 
rode  before  the  courier  reaches  Cronstadt.     The  roads  are  con- 
structed purely  for  military  purposes,  and  travelling  is  restricted 
as  much  as  possible     A  gentleman  can't  go  to  his  country  seat, 
one  hundred  miles  from  the  city,  without  a  pass  for  a  certain 
length  of  time,  and  mentioning  all  his  family  ;   and  this  can  be 
renewed  only  on  personal  application,  except  in  sickness,  and 
then  the  applicant  must  appear  with  the  physician's  certificate, 
for  that  alone  will  save  him  from  punishment.     The  Emperor  is 
trying  to  cripple  the  power  of  the  nobles  and  raise  himself  with 
the  soldiers  and  common  people  by  the  appearance  of  being  able 
to  accomplish  all  he  says  he  will  do  or  have  done,  when  and  in 
the  way  he  chooses ;  whether  it  be  the  erection  of  his  winter 
palace  in  a  year,  which  was  done  at  the  sacrifice  of  hundreds  of 
lives ;  or  the  construction  of  the  iron  bridge  over  the  river,  which 
3ias    been   repairing   ever   since ;     or   building    a   railway    to 
Moscow,  in  a  direct  line  through  swamps  and  morasses,  which 
have  sunk  as  fast  as  filled  in ;  or  coming  to  Moscow  in  thirty 
hours  by  post ;  and  now,  in  a  day  or  two,  he  is  to  try  on  this 
untried  new  railroad  to  accomplish  it  in  the  trial  trip  in  seven 
hours — four  hundred  and  sixty  miles. 


INTOIATIONS   OF   ROBBERS.  51 

The  workpeople  are  clever  at  imitation,  but  they  have  no 
inventive  genius — except  in  setting  jewelry. 

To-day  dined  with  B.  We  had  sterlet,  the  famous  luxury 
brought  from  the  Volga.  Even  in  winter  they  are  brought  on 
alive,  and  shown  swimming  to  the  guests  as  they  pass  through 
the  hall  at  a  dinner  party ;  and  when  they  are  ready  for  the  fish 
(the  third  course  in  Eussia)  they  are  cooked  ;  at  that  season  they 
cost  from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  a.  piece,  which  makes  a  dinner  an 
expensive  affair,  as  every  guest  has  a  fisli — except  of  the  large 
ones,  which  are  two  and  three  hundred  dollars  apiece. 

As  an  instance  of  the  strictness  of  the  censorship,  the  English 
clergyman  at  this  place  told  me  he  could  not  write  his  sermons, 
until  he  had  shown  the  heads  of  bis  subject  to  the  censor  and 
obtained  his  permission  to  use  them. 

Odessa,    Se^ptemher    10th. — After    lockings   and   unlockings, 
directions  and  orders,  we  were  finally  tucked  away  in  our  taran- 
tas,  and  off"  in  grand  grotesque  style,  witb  our  box  of  trunks 
chained,  strapped,  and  tied,  standing  out  in  bold  relief  behind, 
and  our  post-office  courier  in  all  the  dignity  of  his  office,  redou- 
bled by  his  present  charge,  sitting  in  equally  bold  relief  in  front, 
with  his  official  panoply  of  coat  buttons   and  pistol,  cartridge 
box,  padaroshnas  (post-office  orders  for  horses)  and  march  route, 
"  backed  up  "  by  a  sheep-skin-coated  driver.     But  "  pride  must 
have  a  fall,"  and  so  we  learned,  for  two  or  three  stations  or 
our  way  found  our  wheels  giving  out.     At  a  station  where  ve 
stopped  just  before  dark,  the  officer,  on  looking  at  our  lugg.'ge, 
said  he  thought  it  well  fastened  (of  late  there  had  been  ome 
robberies  on  the  road).     Peter,  our  courier,  loaded  his  pist-'l  and 
showed  it  to  me,  while  I  strengthened  his  courage  by  {lowing 
him  my  revolver,  explaining,  that  it  fired  six  shotr  without 
reloading.   Eecovering  from  his  surprise,  we  examines  arranged 
matters  and  were  off  again.    About  the  middle  of  the  ^ig^t,  while 
we  were  giving  our  undivided  attention  to  Somnus  undisturbed 
by  visions  of  robbers,  were  suddenly  startled  by  a  I'emendous  jar, 


52  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

accompanied  by  a  vague  recollection  of  robber  stories  and  present 
feeling  of  upset.  AVc  found  a  wheel  off;  wliile  tbe  rest  were 
looking  for  the  wheel  and  linchpin,  and  I  holding  the  horses,  "a 
tall  horseman  was  seen  emerging  from  the  woods,"  quite  in 
G.  P.  R.  James'  style.     But  he  was  a  mounted  Cossack  patrol. 

Next  morning,  about  eight,  reached  Tula,  passing  through  a 
beautiful  country,  we  should  have  enjoyed  but  for  the  mishaps. 
We  hunted  up  an  Englishman  here,  to  whom  we  had  a  letter, 
and  he  put  us  in  the  way  of  making  "  a  swap  "  for  another  car- 
riage, lie  took  us  to  the  Government  Musket  Manufactory, 
which  he  has  charge  of.  They  were  making  seventy-five  thou- 
sand muskets  a  year,  and  enlarging  to  make  a  hundred  thousand. 
Yet,  strange  enough,  they  make  the  stocks  here,  and  in  every 
other  armory  in  Europe,  by  hand,  while  Yankees,  wide-awake 
for  a  time-saving  machine,  do  them  by  machinery.  After  the 
day  with  him,  we  started  at  dusk  with  letters  to  his  relatives  and 
to  dignitaries  at  ^Micholaiofif.  At  the  first  station,  looking  at  our 
wheels,  saw  we  had  been  cheated,  so  back  we  went  fifteen  miles. 

At  Tula,  my  friend  found  a  party  at  our  English  acquaintance's, 
he  sent  one  of  his  family  with  him  to  the  Lieut. -Governor's,  who 
was  at  the  Governor's ;  there  the  Governor  had  a  long  conversation 
with  him,  learning  he  was  an  American,  and  finished  by  sending 
him  with  his  compliments  to  the  Chief  of  Police,  to  say  "  he 
^^sent  them," — so  they  went  to  him  and  told  the  story.     He  twisted 
lis  moustache,  summoned  his  adjutant  and  aides  (every  one  here 
i^ilitary) ;    one   of  them  knew  Andrio  Corbato,  the  horrid 
vilain !    Ordered  him  arrested,  with  a  sentinel  at  his  door,  till 
the  carriage   was  arranged  to  the  gentlemen's  satisfaction — a 
prompt  administration  of  justice,  mj  learned  friend  forgot  to  put 
in  the  \code."     So  back  they  came  to  the  carriage,  routing  me, 
courier, Vid  "traps"  out,  when  poor  Andrio  Corbato,  officer, 
sentinel,  jm  carriage,  hurried  off;  the  former  feeling  very  much, 
as  if  his  pa\port  for  Siberia  was  almost  made-  out.    The  English- 
man wishedXus  to   finish  the  evening  at  his  house,  but  our 
company  "ri^'  was  not  comeatable,  so  we  declined;  the  next 


A  FRENCH  RESTAURATEUR.  53 

morning  at  daylight,  I  heard  a  noise  in  front  of  the  house,  there 
stood  the  carriage  (with  new  wheels),  Andrio  Corbato,  and  the 
sentinel,  with  fixed  bayonet,  keeping  guard,  and  the  prisoner, 
probably,  vowing  most  sincerely  never  to  sell  another  carriage 
on  a  saint's  day. 

Breakfast  over,  the  Englishman  called,  and  after  due  inspec- 
tion of  the  reparations,  and  Andrio  being  threatened  with  the 
vengeance  of  the  police  if  they  gave  out  again,  we  made  another 
start.  Everything  held  together  well  enough,  till  just  before  wc 
reached  Orel  (a  post  of  about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles),  our 
driver's  box  gave  way. 

Here  we  found  a  French  restaurateur  who  had  come  on  in  the 
Diligence  from  St.  Petersburg  with  us;  he  had  just  returned 
from  the  Great  Exhibition,  with  all  the  grievances  a  French- 
man must  suffer  in  "perfidious  Albion;"  he  had  been  all  over 
England  without  getting  a  beefsteak  well  cooked.  And  as  we 
complimented  France  and  its  cuisine^  he  gave  us  a  delicious 
dejeuner  a  la  fourcheite.  The  town  has  some  80,000.  Last  winter 
fifteen  hundred  froze  to  death. 

On  to  Kourisk,  of  which  a  cup  of  Tchai  (tea)  and  the  bad  pave- 
ments will  be  our  sole  souvenirs.  Then  Karkofif,  along  a  sandy 
dusty  road,  galloping  on  in  grand  style  with  five  horses. 

The  rich  black  loam,  after  heavy  rains,  had  been  baked  so 
hard  by  the  sun  as  to  resemble  asphaltum. 

Karkoff  is  a  large  town  with  many  public  buildings,  but  like 
every  city  in  Russia,  built  of  brick  or  rough  stone  stuccoed.  On 
to  Pultowa,  nearly  suffocated  by  the  clouds  of  fine  black  dust, 
while  in  the  spring  and  autumn  almost  impassable  from 
mud. 

Pultowa,  celebrated  for  the  defeat  of  Charles  the  Twelfth, 
stands  on  a  high,  almost  isolated  hill,  with  no  good  buildings 
but  the  public  ones.  The  monument,  which  is  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  does  not  amount  to  much.  The  Post-house  bad,  but 
any  place  with  ablution  privileges,  was  acceptable  after  twenty- 
four  hours  of  dusting. 


64  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Our  next  rcsting-placc  Elizevagrad,  one  of  the  cavalry  posts 
of  Russia.  A  few  years  ago,  tlie  Emperor  reviewed  eighty  thou- 
sand cavalry  here.  Then  with  a  gallop  of  twenty-four  hours 
over  the  steppes  (prairie)  reached  the  Black  Sea  fleet  station  of 
Nicholaioff — a  fine  town  on  high  ground,  nearly  surrounded 
by  water. 

The  admiral  to  whom  we  had  letters  had  gone  to  Sevastopol. 
Feeling  that  we  had  nearly  reached  the  end  of  our  journey, 
pushed  on  with  invigorated  spirits  to  Odessa ;  only  stopping  now 
and  then  to  "Tchai."  At  one  place  my  culinary  skill  was 
called  into  requisition  to  poach  some  eggs ;  as  all  we  could  get 
was  fire,  eggs  and  a  plate,  no  water  or  thing  to  heat  it  in. 

Eeaching  Odessa  Sunday  morning,  after  a  fatiguing  journey 
of  nine  days,  almost  constant  travelling,  and  making  nearly  a 
thousand  miles;  both  of  us  in  best  of  health  and  spirits, 
found  an  excellent  hotel  on  the  terrace  overlooking  the  Black 
Sea,  with  rooms  on  the  water.  A  comfortable  breakfast  once 
more,  our  things  examined,  and  such  a  plight !  Everything  full 
of  dust !  Poor  Peter,  half  dead,  thinking  his  work  and  responsi- 
bility over,  was  soon  composed  to  sleep  on  a  bench,  with  his 
martial  cloak  around  him.  We  vowing  never  to  go  through 
this  again,  went  to  sleep  like  Peter — but  on  a  bed. 

This  afternoon,  dinner  over,  strolled  on  the  Boulevard,  over- 
looking the  finest  bay  on  the  Black  Sea. 

Nearly  in  front  of  the  hotel  is  a  fine  flight  of  steps  of  yellow 
stone.  The  Duke  de  Richelieu,  a  French  emigrant,  while  go- 
vernor of  the  place,  built  it.  They  are  about  one  hundred  feet 
wide,  descended  by  six  flights ;  at  the  bottom  a  bathing-house, 
whose  privileges  of  a  Black  Sea  swim  we  found  most  grateful. 
Called  with  our  letters. 

Mr.  Rallie,  the  Consul,  told  me  that  some  fifteen  years  since, 
when  travellers  were  less  frequent,  a  New  York  gentleman  and 
his  wife  stopped  here  on  their  way  from  the  East  to  St.  Peters- 
burg. Prince  "Woronzoff  had  a  party  just  after  their  arrival, 
and  sent  them  an  invitation.     The  guests  hearing  she  was  Ame 


»M»w;;vX«>¥--"'^~ 


Sketched  by  the  Author.  .  See  page  5S. 

A  TUAVELLEKS   IDEA   OF  OKDEU,   CONSTANTINOPLE. 


y 


IS 


a» 


GOOD   BYE   TO   RUSSIA.  65 

rican,  all  exclaimed,  with  surprise,  "Why,  she  is  white!  why, 

she  is  white !" 

No  one  is  considered  a  merchant  here  who  does  not  deal  in 
grain.  In  the  autumn  the  streets  are  impassable  from  the  wag- 
gons, which  I  can  imagine  from  the  thousands  of  them  I  met 
on  the  road,  many  trains  of  thirty  and  forty  each.  The  country 
for  fourteen  hundred  miles  is  an  uninterrupted  grain  field. 

The  town  is  mostly  built  of  yellowish  stone  like  that  used  in 
Paris.     It  is  pleasant  looking,  with  fine  view  from  its  lofty  site. 

•  Engaged  our  courier  for  a  tour  through  the  Crimea.  The 
day  before  starting,  he  mysteriously  disappeared,  and  as  he  could 
not  leave  the  place  without  permission  of  the  police,  we  sup- 
posed he  had  been  shut  up  by  them  to  prevent  travellers  go- 
ing there,  without  resorting  to  the  necessity  of  forbidding  it. 
So  we  spent  our  time  in  sight-seeing  and  dining  with  friends, 
who  were  kind  and  attentive. 

Difficult  as  is  the  job  to  get  into  Russia,  it  is  about  as  hard  to 
get  out.  And  as  I  had  dismissed  my  courier,  and  the  other  ser- 
vant had  dismissed  himself,  it  took  me  nearly  a  day  to  get 
my  visees.  The  last  official  I  found  in  the  kitchen  of  the  con- 
cierge, in  his  shirt  sleeves,  eating  stewed  pears  ;  he  asked  me  to 
join  him,  but  time  was  too  precious.  We  bid  good-bye  to  Eus- 
sia,  where  we  had  passed  so  many  pleasant  daj'S. 

The  villages  on  our  way  were  mere  hamlets  ;  the  soil  badly  cul- 
tivated ;  the  threshing  done  on  the  bare  ground,  and  grain  car- 
ried hundreds  of  miles  to  market  by  miserable  little  waggons, 
holding  about  two  wheelbarrow  loads,  and  taking  from  four  to 
six  weeks  in  the  transport.  Near  the  Sea  of  Azoff  are  large- 
beds  of  anthracite  coal. 

Constantinople,  Sept.  lAih,  1851. — This  morning  arrived; 
after  a  pleasant  sail  of  thirty-nine  hours.  In  the  night  a  sudden 
squall  came  up,  and  I  was  awaked  by  the  steward  shutting  my 
window ;  luckily,  my  India-rubber  traps  saved  me  from  a  cold 
bath,  a  wave  having  just  preceded  his  arrival. 


5Q  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

The  Bosphorus  is  narrow  and  winding,  witli  numerous  forts 
on  the  rocky  eminences.  We  thought  they  added  much  to  the 
landscape,  though  the  Czar,  doubtless,  is  of  a  different  opinion, 
as  the}^  and  the  treaty  prevent  his  fleet  going  into  the  Mediter- 
ranean. The  shores  are  lined  with  villages,  and  the  hills  with 
gardens  and  fields.  About  half  way  down,  passed  Therapia,  the 
summer  resort  of  the  diplomatic  corps,  where  we  stopped  to  send 
the  Eussian  despatches  on  shore.  Then  on  through  one  of  the 
most  beautifully  mingled  views  of  land  and  w^ater  I  have  ever 
seen.  The  hills,  valley,  and  shore  varied  with  vineyards, 
villages,  and  villas,  occasionally  a  palace  of  the  Sultan,  tall 
minarets,  or  a  conspicuous  dome  of  some  mosque,  arrested  the 
eye,  while  the  waters  were  dotted  with  craft  of  every  description, 
nation,  and  rig,  from  the  light  caique  of  the  Osmanli  to  the  lofty 
four-deckers  of  the  Sultan.  Zebeques,  with  their  irregular  rig, 
Austrian,  French,  English  (everything  but  American)  flags  met 
the  eye.  And  that  flag  which  an  American  has  the  more  reason  to 
be  proud  of,  the  farther  he  wanders,  had  gone  to  the  Dardanelles 
a  few  days  previous,  borne  by  the  Mississippi,  where  she  awaited 
the  delivery  of  Kossuth  from  the  Turkish  governors. 

Though  no  American  flag  met  our  eye,  we  had  the  satisfaction 
of  knowing  the  Turkish  vessels  of  war  and  many  of  the  steam- 
ers pl3^ing  the  Bosphorus  were  made  by  Americans. 

At  last  we  dropped  anchor  in  the  "  Golden  Horn,"  a  small 
cove  separating  Stamboul  (Constantinople  proper)  from  Pera, 
where  foreigners  reside  and  do  business.  At  the  junction  of 
the  "Golden  Horn"  wdth  the  Bosphorus,  stands  the  Sultan's 
Palace,  called  "  Seraglio  Point." 

The  immense  mosques  of  Santa  Sophia,  Sulimania,  and 
Mahmoud,  with  their  tall  minarets,  rise  proudly  above  seraglio 
and  palace.  In  the  distance  are  the  ruins  of  ancient  aqueducts, 
the  walls  of  the  city,  the  scene  of  many  a  hard-fought  battle, 
and  the  seven  towers.  But  travellers  have  made  this  scene 
too  familiar  to  our  eyes  to  render  another  description  necessary, 
even  to  the  sudden   transition,    on    landing,   from    the    lovely 


THE  SULTAJSr's  HAEEM.  57 

picturesque  to  the  sliocldng  filth  of  streets  and  place,  and  the 
praise  accorded  the  sensible  Englishman  who,  rapt  iu  admi- 
ration of  the  view  from  his  yacht,  never  left  her,  fearing  to 
destroy  the  impression.  We  had  hardly  dropped  anchor,  when 
the  servant  of  Mr.  F.  (whom  we  had  left  at  St.  Petersburg,  but 
who  had  preceded  us,  via  Vienna  and  the  Danube,)  was  most 
kindly  sent  aboard  for  us  to  join  his  family  and  a  party  for  the 
mosques,  palaces,  etc.  We  had  a  delightful  excursion  among 
these  oft-read-of  but  never-to-be-realized  places,  except  on  ocular 
demonstration.  Then  at  the  hotel  we  have  lovely  views  of 
Stamboul  and  the  Bosphorus. 

AYe  are  by  the  side  of  a  burial-ground,  which  appears  to  be  a 
promenade  for  braying  donkeys,  growling  camels,  and  fighting 
dogs,  judging  from  the  perpetual  concert  they  keep  up. 

Sept.  lAth. — A  gala  day,  our  little  party  of  Americans,  six  in  all, 
took  carriages  for  Scutari,  on  the  Asiatic  shore,  where,  with 
horses  for  the  gentlemen,  and  arabahs  (vehicles  drawn  by  oxen) 
for  the  two  ladies,  we  went  to  Bulgurlu,  a  high  hill  which  affords 
a  beautiful  panoramic  view  of  the  city,  Bosphorus,  and  Sea  of 
Marmora.  Here  were  all  the  ladies  of  the  Sultan's  "harem" 
(house) ;  we  passed  leisurely  through — a  Frank  lady  being  as 
great  a  curiosity  to  them  as  they  to  us ;  consequently  returned 
our  stare  with  interest ;  throwing  aside  their  yashmacs,  ceasing 
to  eat  bonbons,  drink  sherbet,  and  almost  to  smoke  their  pipes. 

Few  of  them  were  good-looking ;  they  have  full  faces,  dark 
eyes,  pale  complexions  (fi'om  their  constant  veiling  or  confine- 
ment in  the  house),  and  very  little  intelligence ;  what  we  term  a 
most  rmmeaning  face.  Their  eyebrows  are  painted  till  they 
nearly  or  quite  meet.  On  our  way  home,  rowed  down  the  Bos- 
phorus, over  the  spot  where  the  sultans  summarily  dispose  of 
troublesome  and  bagged  members  of  their  female  domestic  circles, 
passing  the  city  and  her  sea  walls,  so  often  crimsoned  by  con- 
tending foes,  and  over  which  blind  Dandalus  was  led,  conquer- 
ing as  he  went.  Landed  at  the  extremity  of  the  city,  where 
stands  the  first  of  the  "seven  towers:"  not  finding  horses,  walked 


58  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

on  and  passed  the  Golden  Gate  through  which  the  Emperors  rode 
in  triumph.  There  arc  three  walls  on  the  land  side.  At  last  got 
two  horses,  and  though  with  men's  saddles,  a  most  agreeable 
relief  to  the  ladies  of  our  party;  we  walked  on  either  side,  cava- 
liers a  pied^  helping  them  hold  on  in  so  awkward  a  side-saddle. 
Got  to  hotel  at  ten,  after  an  amusing  walk  of  six  miles. 

"We  are  now  arranging  for  our  journey  to  Mosul,  Nineveh, 
and  so  on  to  Jerusalem.  A  long  big-fisted  Irishman  from 
Australia  wishes  to  go  with  us ;  he  has  an  ugly,  gaunt-looking 
wife  who  holds  the  purse,  well  filled  too  I  fancy,  from  the  satis- 
faction she  takes  in  jingling  it  in  her  pocket  while  she  stalks 
along  with  grenadier  stride.  The  wife  he  proposes  to  send  on 
direct  to  Jerusalem,  and  we  have  concluded  to  take  him,  think- 
ing he'd  be  such  a  "broth  of  a  boy"  if  we  should  chance  to 
have  a  "  scrimmage  "  with  the  Arabs  (who  are  very  troublesome) 
en  route.  So  my  room  is  in  the  j oiliest  kind  of  confusion.  On 
the  floor,  patent  canteens,  pistols,  flasks,  clothes,  camp  bedstead, 
maps,  a  library  of  books  for  reading,  studying,  and  sketching ; 
ink,  pencils,  paper,  compasses,  bullet  moulds ;  around  on  chairs 
and  sofas,  are  scattered  coats  and  India-rubber  "  traps,"  while 
trunks  lay  open  around  me  with  all  the  etceteras  of  a  vagrandiz- 
ing  comfortable  traveller ;  musketo-bars,  camera-obscura,  her- 
barium, and  a  medicine  chest ;  the  lancets  and  weights,  with  the 
book  of  directions  I've  just  been  examining.  They  extend  from 
a  broken  neck  to  a  snake  bite.  Being  issued  under  act  of  Par- 
liament and  the  Admiralty,  feel  I  must  arrive  at  some  termina- 
tion, kill  or  cure,  though  should  feel  more  faith  if  qualified  by 
"  Act  of  Congress  "  than  Parliament,  as  we  stifi'-necked  Eepubli- 
cans  are  apt  to  be  rebellious  to  all  that  bears  the  impress  of 
royalty. 

To-day,  visited  Terrhapia  and  our  minister ;  most  of  his  family 
have  suffered  severely  from  a  trip  to  Egypt,  the  desert,  and 
Palestine,  last  spring  and  this  summer.  Dined  with  the  Secre- 
tary of  Legation.  Returning,  called  on  several  of  the  missiona- 
ries, passing  on  our  way  down  the  new  palace  of  the  Sultan, 


A  MODEL   REPRESENTATIVE.  59 

spoilt  bj  the  lower  part  only  being  of  marble,  the  rest  of  wood  ; 
but  beautifully  situated  •  on  the  water's  edge.  They  have  a 
curious  custom — every  Sultan  builds  a  palace  for  his  successor. 

Saw  the  dancing  and  howling  Dervishes  perform :  one  set  on 
either  side  of  the  Bosphorus.  The  one  like  "  Lebanon  Shakers," 
the  others,  maniacs  with  their  frantic  "  shines." 

Saw  the  Sultan  go  to  mosque  this  morning — a  pale,  thin  man 
about  twenty-eight,  of  very  slight  form. 

At  the  "sweet  (fresh)  waters"  of  Europe  and  Asia,  another 
sight  of  the  Sultan's  harem. 

To-day  made  my  first  essay  in  donkey-riding,  and  was  puz- 
zled to  know  what  to  do  with  my  legs,  especially  in  a  crowded 
bazaar. 

On  a  visit  to  "Prince's  Islands,"  saw  quantities  of  arbutus 
trees,  full  of  ripe  fruit. 

This  morning  learned  our  dragoman  for  Mosul,  etc.,  whom  we 
have  been  waiting  three  weeks  to  find,  had  gone  off  with  ano- 
ther party,  thinking  he  might  be  robbed  or  murdered  returning 
alone.  So,  with  Mussulmanic  philosophy,  we  must  shrug  our 
shoulders  and  say,  "Enshallah!"  (God  wills  it!) 

Now  we  go  to  Troy  and  Greece,  en  route  to  Syria,  Egyj^t,  etc. 
As  our  diplomatic  representatives  so  often  disgrace  their  coun- 
try, except  it  may  be  in  England  and  France,  I'll  pay  a  parting 
tribute  to  our  most  worthy  and  esteemed  one  here,  who  has  so 
ably  sustained,  in  all  the  walks  of  public  and  private  life,  the 

high  reputation   he  bore  at  home.     Mr.  C ,  a  previous 

representative,  in  the  same  "kit"  and  category  as  Bagby,  Han- 
negan,  and  Polk,  vain  of  his  ugly  "corpus,"  exposed  himself, 
nude,  at  the  ministerial  windows,  to  some  Greek  ladies.  Their 
brothers,  in  natural  indignation  at  the  insult,  took  the  law  into 
their  own  hands,  and  would  have  assassinated  him,  had  he  not 
possessed  more  prudence  (or  cowardice,  term  it  which  you  will 
— that,  and  gratuitous  insult  to  a  woman,  are  the  same)  than 
modesty,  and  thus  hid  himself. 

The  Turks,  with  that  love  of  the  "almighty  dollar"  falsely 


60  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

imputed  to  us  alone,  keep  Sunday  instead  of  Friday,  in  order 
to  avoid  losing  the  Frank  custom  of  one  day. 

October  2d.  —  DARDANELLES. — Yesterday  came  down  from 
Constantinople,  which  I  parted  from  with  regret:  I've  passed 
my  time  so  delightfully,  and  had  such  lovely  views  from  my 
window ;  from  early  morning  to  midnight  I  gaze  upon  its  thou- 
sand glittering  lights;  the  dark  outlines  of  Santa  Sophia  and 
Suleimanye,  with  their  lofty  minarets,  and  beyond,  Marmora 
reflecting  the  moon's  rays  from  its  glassy  surface,  until  it  seems 
a  dream  too  beautiful  for  reality. 

Just  before  leaving  yesterday,  a  very  nice  fellow  asked  per- 
mission to  join  us  at  Beyrout — one  of  the  leading  members  of 
the  old  Visconti  family  at  Milan.  Being  too  ardent  a  repub- 
lican, had  been  obliged  to  take  refuge  here.  I  hope  he  will  join 
us ;  I  like  him  much. 

At  this  place  we  stay  with  the  English  vice-consul.  The 
scene  on  the  deck  was  most  amusing ;  the  Turks  always  have 
part  portioned  off  to  them ;  and  being  exclusive,  confined  them- 
selves to  their  quarter,  where  they  scrubbed,  chatted,  and 
scolded — the  latter  quality  the  feminine  gender  in  this  nation 
excel  in. 

Scattered  about  the  forward  deck  were  Mussulmans,  Jews, 
Armenians,  Greeks,  and  Heaven  only  knows  who  or  what  else. 
I  should  think,  a  dash  of  every  clime,  from  the  variety  of 
costume,  enveloped  in  >huge  blankets,  cloaks,  and  the  shaggy 
"capote." 

On  the  wheel-house  were  two  Persian  priests,  with  their  tall 
pointed  fur  caps,  prostrating  themselves,  with  their  eyes  turned 
towards  Mecca.  I  wandered  about  the  decks,  passenger  and 
moon-gazing  until  tired,  and  then  turned  in. 

This  morning  arrived  at  the  Dardanelles,  at  six,  leaving  Ses- 
tos  and  Abydos  about  three  miles  behind  us.  Went  ashore  at 
the  little  town  of  Chanak-Kalasi  {Anglice,  Pottery- ware  Town). 


THE   PLAINS   OF  TKOY.  61 

October  Mh. — Started  for  the  moutli  of  the  Dardanelles,  land- 
ing near  Boonabashe.  The  sail  was  delightful,  passing  the 
various  guard  forts. 

They  use  immense  cannon,  with  granite  balls  of  enormous 
size ;  one  nearly  sunk  an  English  fi-igate  a  few  years  ago,  one  of 
the  fleet  that  forced  the  passage.  No  vessel  is  allowed  to  pass 
after  dark.  During  the  night  constantly  hear  the  cannon  fired 
to  "come  to." 

In  the  style  of  Homer,  most  sapient  D ,  long-legged  I , 

and  most  useful  Joseph,  were  soon  landed  from  their  sharp- 
prowed  caique.  With  our  "  traps  "  on  our  backs  trudged  to 
the  village,  about  the  spot  where  the  "  valiant  Achilles,"  "much- 
devising  Ulysses,"  and  their  warlike  countrymen  first  landed. 
"We  were  soon  in  the  saddle,  and  stopped  for  the  night  at  a  khan 
opposite  Tenedos,  where  was  a  most  primitive  lighthouse  (a 
large  fire)  on  a  hill. 

This  morning  in  the  saddle  before  sunrise,  and  soon  fairly  on 
the  Plains  of  Troy.  Three  mounds  are  pointed  out  as  the  tombs 
of  Hector,  Achilles,  and  Ajax.  On  a  high  hill,  some  distance 
from  the  sea,  the  remains  of  the  old  city,  and  in  the  distance  the 
rivers  Scamander  and  Simoeis,  now  nearly  dry.  The  plains, 
over  which  Homer  has  thrown  a  mystic  spell,  are  low,  and  flat, 
growing  grapes  and  olives,  but  even  they  not  flourishing, — 
perhaps  a  judgment  on  the  desecration. 

On  over  broken  columns  and  other  vestiges  of  ancient  ruins, 
reached  the  Amphitheatre  of  Alexander  Troas  (built  by  Anti- 
gonus,  one  of  Alexander's  generals).  The  columns  of  grey 
granite,  some  five  feet  in  diameter  and  sixty  feet  high.  One  of 
the  columns  lying  in  the  water,  showed  the  encroachment  of  the 
sea. 

Inside  of  an  old  wall  is  seen  a  large  ruin,  called  Priam's 
Palace, — the  ruins  so  large  and  massive  that  I  actually  rode  to  the 
top  of  the  building,  where  my  friend  unfurled  "  the  flag,"  which 
I  saluted  with  my  pistol.  Then  continued  on  finding  and  ex- 
ploring many  more  similar  ruins,  though  none  as  large.    Eeached 


62  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

the  baths,  where  were  mineral  waters — I  suppose  a  Trojan  Sara- 
toga. At  last,  near  dark,  we  got  to  the  little  village  of  Ulaga ; 
after  much  delay  found  they  had  no  rooms — but  we  could  lodge 
in  the  quarantine ;  being  all  we  could  get,  and  too  late  to  con- 
tinue on,  had  to  take  it ;  and  stowed  our  three  valuable  selves  as 
best  we  could.  By  guess  measurement,  our  quarters  were  eight 
feet  wide  by  twelve  long.  Here  there  was  a  space  five  feet 
square  for  passage,  wood,  etc.,  cut  in  the  floor,  which  was  about 
three  feet  above  the  ground;  and  ceiling  just  six  feet  high.  In 
this  spacious  apartment  had  to  be  lodged — ourselves,  servant, 
provender,  saddles,  and  other  "  traps." 

Not  being  proud,  we  went  to  the  common  fountain,  and  took 
our  turn  at  ablutions  with  Turks,  niggers,  donkeys,  horses, 
camels,  and  other  cattle. 

From  the  number  of  huge  turbaned  fellows  hanging  round  our 
door,  our  place  must  be  the  "  Ton  "  itself,  and  certainly  of  sanc- 
tity, for  we  are  under  the  same  roof  as  the  mosque,  as  we  soon  , 
learned  by  the  "  Muezzin  "  (or  cry  to  prayer),  and  nasal  whine 
of  the  worshippers. 

They  have  a  funny  way  of  leading  a  train  of  camels,  gene- 
rally by  a  little  donkey,  which  produces  a  ludicrous  effect. 

Dardanelles,  Oct  4:th. — Last  night  I  was  woke  up  by  a  cat 
walking  across  my  feet,  I  shouted,  and  she  landed  on  Mr.  D.,  en 
route  to  the  window. 

This  morning  toileted  at  the  fountain  with  our  friends  of  last 
evening.  Off  before  sunrise.  The  sunrises  and  sunsets  are 
lovely,  with  those  beautiful  tints  we  always  see  in  pictures  of  the 
Mediterranean. 

Passed  through  the  little  village  of  Eenkoii,  and  scrambling 
along  breakneck  paths  reached  the  shores  of  the  Dardanelles 
again,  and  two  hours  after  in  Chanak-kalasi,  at  the  comfortable 
house  of  the  Consul,  and  right  glad  to  get  there  after  twelve 
hours  in  the  saddle. 

Oct.  5th.  Eowed  to  Abydos,  and  ascended  the  hill  where  Xerxes 


Sketcbed  by  the  Author 


RUINS   OF   PPvIAMS   PALACE.     TROY. 


See  page  61. 


SMYRNA.  63 

viewed  his  vast  army,  and  made  his  memorable  exclamation. 
Here  his  famous  bridge  was  fastened,  and  to  this  place  Leander 
swam  nightly  to  see  his  "  lady-love."  The  Turks,  in  excavating 
from  the  top  of  the  hill  for  a  battery,  found  the  hexagonal  base 
of  what  was  either  Xerxes's  throne  or  a  light-house.  On  our  re- 
turn the  guns  were  thundering  forth  their  sunset  salute  in  honor 
of  the  Turkish  feast  the  "  Eamazan." 

Smyrna,  Oct.  7th. — ^Yesterday  the  steamer  (though  French) 
following  the  charming  track  of  these  Orientals,  who  fancying 
to-morrow  is  as  good  as  to-day,  and  the  day  after  better  yet, 
did  not  arrive  until  near  twelve.  While  waiting  for  her  saw 
one  of  the  carts  of  this  place,  which  performs  the  double  duty 
of  cart  and  "hurdy-gurdy,"  The  wheels  are  very  small  and 
solid,  with  a  narrow  iron  tire,  the  wood  tapering  off  and  so  fine 
it  would  ruin  the  best  road  in  the  world.  The  wheels  and  axle- 
trees  are  morticed  together ;  never  being  greased  its  eternal 
squeak  sounds  like  a  drove  of  swine  in  full  concert. 

Our  sail  was  delightful,  and  found  several  acquaintances  on 
board  of  the  steamer. 

Passed  between  Troy  and  Tenedos. 

The  harbor  of  Smyrna  is  beautiful.  We  have  not  been  on 
shore,  but  we  shall  spend  some  days  here  on  our  return. 

Our  departure  this  morning  was  delayed  some  hours  for  the 
captain  to  breakfast  with  the  admiral,  and  yesterday  for  him  to 
go  ashore  at  the  Dardanelles  to  shoot.  A  few  trips  since,  in 
the  anxiety  to  shoot,  they  forgot  the  mail,  which  they  did  not 
discover  until  about  two  hours  after  they  had  started. 

PiR^US,  Oct.  8th. — I  date  from  the  Quarantine  rooms.  We 
had  a  charming  sail  here,  passing  the  principal  islands  and 
ports.  Mytilene  and  Scio  were  illuminated  by  coal  kilns, 
which  produced  a  very  fine  efiect,  thirty  or  forty  lighting  up 
the  entire  side  of  the  mountains. 

This  morning  saw  Pentelicus  and  the  mountains  at  Mara- 


64  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

thon,  passing  under  tlic  promontory  of  Sunium,  with  the  ruined 
old  Temple  of  Minerva  crowning  its  brow.  There  are  just  twelve 
columns  standing.     Now  Athens  is  in  sight,  so  I  must  close. 

Athens,  October  10. — After  a  quarantine  of  three  days,  an 
amusement  or  vexation  these  wiseacres  get  up  for  annoying 
each  other,  the  doctor  looked  in  this  morning,  and  finding  us 
all  flourishing,  let  us  out.  We  were  soon  off  for  Athens,  a  dull, 
dusty  drive  of  six  miles,  and  particularly  iminteresting — though 
we  did  our  best  to  feel  enthusiastic  and  recall  all  the  Grecian  lore 
whipped  into  us  at  school,  but  much  of  it  long  since  forgotten. 

The  Pirceus  is  a  most  diminutive  port,  the  entrance  only  about 
two  hundred  feet  wide. 

We  are  established  in  the  Hotel  d'Angleterre,  under  the  aus- 
pices of  two  hosts,  one  with  the  reputation  of  being  the  greatest 
liar  in  Greece,  the  other  of  having  been  a  bandit ;  but  they  keep 
the  best  hotel  here. 

Went  this  evening  to  view  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus  by 
moonlight,  the  largest  of  the  temples,  begun  first  and  completed 
last  (by  the  Eomans) ;  a  joint  monument  of  the  two  nations. 
There  are  only  sixteen  columns  left — but  their  immense  size  gives 
an  idea  of  its  magnitude ;  they  formed  the  fagade  and  are  sixty 
feet  high  by  six  and  a  half  in  diameter.  Near  by,  the  Arch  of 
Hadrian,  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  city.  We  climbed  up  to 
the  Acropolis,  but  the  Cerberus  of  the  citadel  was  not  to  be  bribed. 
Visited  the  vast  ruins  of  the  theatre  built  by  Herodes  Atticus,  in 
honor  of  his  wife. 

The  Acropolis  is  a  ragged,  rocky  hill — and  has  always  been  the 
citadel;  thus  the  perpetual  target  for  bombs  and  cannon-balls 
during  the  sieges,  and  much  to  the-  detriment  of  the  beautiful 
temples  that  crown  this  fortress.  While  the  Parthenon  was  the 
powder  magazine  of  the  Venetians,  a  bomb  exploded  and  shat- 
tered it. 

Saw  Mr.  Hill,  the  American  Missionary,  and  Chaplain  to  the 
English  Embassy — the  only  instance  on  record  of  the  position 


THE  PLAIN   OF   MARATHON.  65 

ever  being  offered  to  an  American.  The  place  being  vacant  the 
English  Minister  had  him  appointed,  a  compliment  and  mark  of 
his  high  esteem.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hill  are  much  interested  in  their 
school,  which,  some  years,  has  had  over  a  thousand  scholars — 
many  of  the  pupils  children  of  former  scholars. 

Our  Presbyterian  missionary  has  a  pretty  Smyrnian  wife  who 
won't  be  of  any  religion.  Then  to  a  Greek  court — saw  a  modern 
Demosthenes  defending  his  client  for  stealing  sponges  ;  if  he  stole 
them  for  his  own  use  should  have  been  let  off,  on  condition  of 
using  them.  The  judges  invited  us  to  sit  near  them,  doubtless 
irom  a  fellow  feeling,  "birds  of  a  feather,"  &c. 

Suiiday,  12th. — Yesterday  were  off  by  break  of  day,  with  a 
dashing  young  Albanian  guide,  for  Marathon.  Half  the  journey 
in  carriage,  rest  on  horseback.  Last  night  it  rained,  and  this 
morning  the  air  is  very  fresh.  Passed  Hymettus,  then  Pente- 
licus'  white  peaks.  Shortly  after  starting,  discovered  my  friend 
missing, — turning  back,  found  him  and  his  horse  having  a  game 
of  "leap-frog,"  one  on  his  nose  the  other  on  his  knees.  Chang- 
ing horses  with  him,  he  got  along  better. 

Marathon  is  a  long  narrow  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
and  bordered  on  the  other  side  by  the  sea.  A  half  washed  and 
dug-away  hill  marks  the  place  where  the  Athenians  were  buried, 
and  a  heap  of  stones  where  Miltiades  was  afterwards  entombed 
on  the  field  of  his  fame. 

The  road  home  lined  with  arbutus  trees  in  fruit.  This  even- 
ing a  full  moon, — went  to  the  Parthenon.  The  Archseological  So- 
ciety of  Athens  has  done  much  to  remove  the  rubbish  from  the 
Acropolis,  and  put  together  old  temples.  The  Turks,  when 
besieged  here,  made  cannon  balls  from  the  columns  of  the  Par- 
thenon and  other  temples. 

This  morning  at  daylight,  we  and  our  servant  were  off  for 
Mars'  Hill,  Mr.  D.  did  St.  Paul,  the  servant  and  I  the  audience— 
[the  Areopagite,  and  he,  not  understandingEnghsh,  the  Athenian. 
Returned  by  Socrates'  prison,  and  the  Bema  where  Themistocles 

5 


66  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

and  Demosthenes  harangued  the  assembHes.  An  admirable  spot 
for  the  purpose :  they  here  could  appeal  to  the  feelings,  in  sight  of 
their  homes,  the  temple-crowned  Acropolis  with  the  altars  of 
their  gods,  the  bay  of  Salamis,  and  the  numerous  sites  of  their 
victories  as  they  circled  the  horizon. 

The  palace  is  an  immense  abortive  attempt  at  architecture, 
with  but  one  feature  of  success  in  its  construction — enriching  the 
rascally  architect  who  made  a  large  fortune  out  of  it. 

Dinner  over,  the  band  played  in  the  grand  square ;  the  King 
and  Queen  rode  up  with  their  suite — she  has  been  pretty,  not  so 
now ;  he,  small,  plain,  and  common  looking. 

October  14//;. — Started  early  yesterday  morning  on  a  tour  of 
two  weeks  through  Grreece.  Stopped  in  the  vale  of  Daphne, 
where  once  stood  a  temple  to  Apollo ;  near  it,  the  temple  of 
Yenus.  Then  tomb  of  Strato,  now  in  ruins.  Going  on  by  the 
"Via  Sacra,"  passed  the  bay  of  Eleusis,  the  salt  and  fresh  water 
side  by  side.  A  few  ancient  tombs,  then  the  temple  of  Ceres 
and  ruins  of  Eleusis.  The  temple  must  have  been  very  fine, 
judging  from  its  ruins  and  a  fa§ade  ornament  of  Ceres  reclining 
on  a  ground  of  grains  and  fruit.  Some  Vandal  has  knocked  off 
the  head  and  carried  it  away.     Saw  a  fine  statue  with  drapery. 

Stopped  for  the  night  at  Gasa,  formerly  Enarkos.  Dined  in 
grand  style  with  Alexander  in  full  costume  as  waiter,  and  a 
capital  one  too ;  we  have  a  retinue  of  seven  horses  and  four  men. 

Off  this  morning  before  daylight,  and  got  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountains  as  the  sun  rose — a  superb  view — Parnassus'  tall  peak 
still  in  sight,  while  Platea  and  Leuctra  lay  at  our  feet.  Just 
beyond,  is  Thebes.  Getting  out  to  walk,  picked  up  a  very  old 
coin. 

Thebes  is  on  a  hill,  its  ancient  mantle  of  glory  now  covers  a 
village  of  cobblers.  After  breakfast,  stopped  at  Mardonius' 
tomb ;  the  Lacedoemons  were  led  by  Pausanias,  and  Herodotus 
pronounced  their  victory  the  greatest  he  ever  heard  of. 

Crossed  the  Esopus,  a  stream,  two  and  a  half  inches  deep. 


CARNASSUS  AT   MIDNIGHT.  67 

Leuctra  is  on  a  hill,  witli  a  tumulus  to  mark  the  place  of 
those  who  fell  under  Epaminondas — next  Thespia's  former 
site. 

Did  not  get  off  early  this  morning;  my  friend  sick.  The 
gendarmes  went  out  after  robbers.  Passing  the  site  of  the  Tem- 
ple of  the  Muses  saw  some  old  columns  covered  with  inscriptions 
verifying  the  spot.  Then  fountains  of  Hippomene  and  Narcissus. 
Stopped  at  Lebadea  for  the  night. 

Leaving  the  town,  passed  the  caves  of  Trophonius  curiously 
honey-combed.  On  the  summit,  three  hundred  feet  high,  stands 
the  citadel. 

Cheronea,  a  vast  fertile  plain,  with  ruins  of  amphitheatre  and 
citadel.  Also  of  the  lion  over  the  tombs  of  the  Boeotians  who 
fell  in  battle  against  Philip  of  Macedon.  Near  by,  the  chair  of 
Plutarch,  and  the  old  town  of  Achaia  with  its  lofty  citadel,  and 
on  over  a  battle-field  of  Greeks  and  Turks  to  Arachova,  through 
thousands  of  acres  of  vineyard. 

In  waiting  for  dinner,  amused  ourselves  throwing  coppers  out 
of  the  window  until  a  crowd  of  some  seventy  persons  gathered. 

Delphi,  October  17th. — Eose  at  one — by  half  past  breakfasted ; 
and  in  our  saddles,  such  as  they  were  (on  mules)  ascending  Par- 
nassus, A  lovely  moonlight,  the  de'il  was  always  possessing  our 
brutes  to  be  constantly  leaning  over  a  precipice  to  pick  a  bon 
bouclie  of  thistle,  when  we  could  see  the  cottage  -lights  hundreds 
of  feet  below  us.  At  this  midnight  hour,  the  clouds  and  moun- 
tains blending  together,  and  lit  by  the  moon's  rays,  were  like 
angiy  billows  of  snow.  Peached  the  summit  after  six  tedious 
hours  as  the  rising  sun  was  gilding  the  mountain  peaks  and 
tinging  the  clouds  with  rainbow  colors.  The  last  few  hundred 
feet  we  had  to  climb  a  pied ;  the  rotundity  of  my  friend  was  not 
compatible  with  that,  so  three  men  pulled  him  up.  The  view 
was  one  of  the  most  extensive  I've  ever  beheld.  All  Greece 
seemed  present  to  our  gaze. 

Descending,  stopped  at  the  celebrated  Corycian  cave,  an  up- 


68  FROM    WALL   STllEET   TO   CASUMERE. 

hill  scramble  of  a  thousand  feet.  The  entrance  is  small ;  the 
large  chamber,  one  hundred  by  two  hundred  feet,  and  fifty  high, 
covered  with  stalactites,  and  the  floor  with  stalagmites,  followed 
by  a  succession  of  smaller  damp  slimy  chambers.  On  to  Delj^hi, 
which  we  reached  by  a  breakneck  road  at  nine  this  evening. 

Galaxidi,  Sunday,  October  19lh. — After  a  disturbed  night 
from  rain  with  a  leaky  roof  above,  uneasy  horses  below,  and 
mewing  cats  in  the  room,  we  hurried  through  breakfast  and  off 
for  the  oracular  seat.  Visited  Apollo's  Temple,  lately  discovered 
in  excavating,  then  the  Castalian  fount.  I  quaffed  the  water, 
but  the  spell  of  poesy  has  not  come  o'er  me  yet.  Saw  the  seat 
of  the  priestess  when  delivering  the  oracles — then  the  stadium, 
and  various  tombs  cut  in  the  rock  along  the  road. 

Turned  to  look  once  more  on  this  amphitheatre  of  nature 
and  ancient  seat  of  Grecian  mythology — then  on  to  the  port, 
or  Scala  di  Salona,  passing  the  spot  where  (Edipus  killed  his 
father. 

Beginning  to  rain,  we  started  pell-mell  for  the  village.  Not 
being  able  to  get  a  large  boat  for  Vestiggia,  took  a  small  one  for 
thLs  place.  No  better  luck  here,  for  none  would  start  till  Mon- 
day morning,  so  we  made  our  quarters  over  a  coffee-room. 

Down  stairs  the  Greeks  have  been  quarrelling  over  their  cards 
all  day. 

Megaspelion,  21sL — Eose  at  three  yesterday,  and  went  on  the 
boat.  The  horses  were  slung  aboard  most  strangely.  With 
little  wind  we  were  drifting  about  all  day.  On  landing,  the 
horses  were  slung  over  the  side  by  a  noose,  and  held  up  in  the 
water  till  the  noose  was  unfastened,  when  they  swam  ashore  ;  a 
more  brutal  affair  I  have  never  seen.  On  the  way  to  the  khan 
passed  a  sycamore  tree  forty-three  feet  in  circumference. 

Left  this  miserable  town  at  seven ;  travelled  over  beautiful 
and  verdant  mountain  scenery,  with  wild  flowers,  and  the  arbutus 
red  with  fruit.     Got  here  in  the  afternoon.     The  building   is 


A  JOVIAL   PRIEST,  G9 

perched  in  the  recess  of  a  projecting  mountain  peak,  with  high 
stronsr  walls  around  it.     Here  the  Greek  Revolution  first  broke 

O 

out,  and  afterwards  the  Turks  were  repulsed,  with  great  loss,  in 
their  attempt  to  take  it.  The  semicircular  hill-side  garden 
terraced  down  three  hundred  feet.  The  old  priest  showed  us  a 
"  Transfiguration,"  presented  by  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  the 
chapel,  and  wine  vaults.  The  latter  are  extensive,  and  apparently 
their  pride ;  they  also  showed  several  fountains,  but  of  no  use 
that  I  could  discover,  internally  or  externally. 

Corinth,  23rd  October. — Night  before  last  a  very  amusing  time. 
The  old  priest,  the  head  of  the  establishment,  declined  to  dine  or 
drink  with  us  (at  these  places  you  have  your  own  dinner),  but  he 
dined  at  his  own  end  of  the  table,  libating  very  freely  of  their 
own  beastly  wine  (with  flavor  of  melted  pitch  and  sealing-wax), 
every  time  reversing  his  glass  to  show  us  he  left  no  "  heel-taps ;" 
then  said  he  would  take  a  little  with  us,  and  some  brandy,  so 
poured  out  a  good  half-tumbler,  drank  it  off  (pure)  in  two  swal- 
lows. He  gagged  and  choked ;  at  last,  as  by  degrees,  recovering 
the  use  of  his  half  excoriated  throat,  gulped  out  as  he  stroked 
his  long  beard,  "  su-per-li-ti-i-vum  seniori." 

Three  or  four  tumblers  of  wine  following  this  in  quick  succes- 
sion, he  soon  became  oblivious,  and  threatened  to  whip  us  if  we 
did  not  eat  some  grapes  he  brought ;  then  wished  to  send  some  to 
the  President  of  the  United  States,  and  begged  us  to  make  a 
long  visit,  etc. 

Yesterday,  left  early ;  had  all  sorts  of  a  ride, — chmbing  tops 
of  mountains,  and  galloping  along  the  shore  of  the  Gulf  of 
Corinth  to  Zaphilites. 

To-day,  visited  Sicyon,  formerly  one  of  the  first  kingdoms  in 
Greece,  now  only  the  ruins  of  a  temple  and  theatre  visible.  At 
Corinth  went  to  the  old  temple  of  Minerva,  which  is  stuccoed  ! 
Then  firom  the  khan  to  the  Acro-Corinth,  or  citadel,  eighteen 
hundred  feet  in  the  air. 

"  A  fortress  form'd  to  freedom's  hands." 


70  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

It  has  all  sorts  of  fortiiications,  the  eternal  Venetian  tower  among 
the  rest.  The  view  is  magnificent, — the  place  impregnable.  The 
rest  of  Corinth  has  vanished ;  Eoman,  Goth,  Venetian,  and  Turk, 
have  destroyed  every  vestige  of  this  once  mistress  of  Grecian 
luxury  and  art. 

Athens,  Monday  ^Itli. — Friday,  passed  the  Nemean  cave 
shortly  after  leaving  Corinth, — the  ruins  of  Cleonse,  then  Nemea, 
with  a  few  temple  ruins. 

Met  two  armed  men  in  a  defile,  gendarmes,  my  guide  said, 
but  I  thought  robbers,  from  his  sudden  flush,  as  he  handed 
them  some  money  and  whipped  into  a  rapid  gallop.  The  guides 
have  all  the  robber  bands  in  pay,  as  the  robbery  of  a  traveller 
would  cost  them  their  business. 

Saw  the  track  in  the  rocks  of  ancient  chariot  wheels.  Then 
reached  Mycenas.  The  city  is  on  a  hill.  Part  of  the  walls  in 
good  preservation,  built  of  large  stones,  laid  without  mortar. 
The  two  gates,  the  one  of  Lions  very  perfect  except  their  heads. 
They  lean  against  a  column.  Near  is  the  (so-called)  treasury 
of  Atreus ;  further  on  the  tomb  of  Agamemnon,  some  say  of 
Atreus, — a  curious,  conical,  bee-hive-looking  affair,  fifty  feet  in 
diameter  and  height.  The  principal  chamber  was  laid  in  stone 
covered  with  brass.  The  stone  over  the  door  twenty-seven  feet 
long  by  eighteen  broad,  and  three  thick.  Then  to  the  Nixus  of 
Argos,  its  citadel,  on  a  small  mountain  near  the  city;  at  its  base 
an  old  theatre. 

Saturday. — ^This  morning  rode  to  Nauplia,  stopping  at  Tyre- 
nus  or  Tyrens.  The  walls  are  in  good  condition,  in  the  outer 
one  an  arched  way  ;  near  it  sat  an  owl — perhaps  Minerva  her- 
self, watching  us. 

Nauplia  is  the  only  really  well-fortified  town  in  Greece ;  the 
streets  are  tolerable.  It  was  the  capital  for  a  few  years  during  the 
regency: — then  full  gallop  (the  usual  style,  and  over  such  roads, 
one  would  consider  elsewhere  certain  destruction  to  man  or 


—  v-:."^---^-  '■ 


SkftcluMl  by  till'  Author. 


KUINS   OF   TEMPLE  OF  JUI'ITEi;  (Jl.VMlT.-^,  ATHENS. 


See  p.ige  W. 


A   VISIT  TO  THE   ACROPOLIS.  71 

beast,  perhaps  both,  and  here  neither)  over  horrid,  loose,  stony, 
and  breaknecli  ways. 

Stopped  at  Hiero,  where  stood  the  Temple  of  Esculapius, 
which,  from  the  ruins,  must  have  been  both  immense  and  beau- 
tiful. The  theatre  is  the  only  perfect  seated  one  I  have  seen 
(they  are  cut  in  the  rock  or  of  stone),  this  would  hold  twelve 
thousand. 

On  to  Epidaurus  through  the  Sacred  Grrove. 

Sunday. — This  place,  though  small,  very  ancient.  The  first 
Congress  met  here.  Left  at  five  in  a  small  boat,  and  with  heavy 
wind  and  sea  been  beating  about  all  day.  At  dusk  put  into  a 
small  cove  in  the  island  of  ^gina. 

I  started  with  the  captain  to  see  the  old  Temple  of  Jupiter. 
Has  twenty -two  columns  standing,  in  many  parts  perfect. 

Monday. — Last  night  our  lodging,  a  cavern  just  above  the 
water's  edge,  the  bed  an  old  carpet.  My  friend  and  the  ser- 
vant, like  yesterday,  enjoying  a  felicity  of  sea-sickness. 

Eeached  the  Pireeus  at  one,  and  right  glad  to  get  on  terra 
firma  after  an  adventurous  cruise,  which  was  far  from  a  safe 
one.  At  the  hotel  found  several  Southern  and  New  York  ac- 
quaintances. 

This  afternoon  Mr.  Hill,  who  was  delighted  to  see  us  safe 
back  (the  country  swarms  with  banditti),  accompanied  us  to  the 
Acropolis.  The  Archaeological  Society  have  quite  restored,  or 
put  together,  the  ruins  of  the  little  Temple  of  Victory,  which 
stands  at  the  side  of  the  Propylaeon.  The  goddess  at  Sparta  is 
chained,  here  is  represented  as  laying  aside  her  garments  to 
remain.  There  is  a  hideous  square  Venetian  tower,  decided  by 
the  King  of  Bavaria  (an  imaginary  wiseacre  in  such  matters)  to 
remain  as  marking  an  epoch.  Then  the  chariot-worn  rocks,  by 
which  the  Panathenssan  procession  passed  every  fifth  year. 

Now  the  Parthenon,  robbed  of  much  of  its  beauty  and  orna- 
ment by  barbarian  Turk,  scarce  less  vandalic  Saxon,  still  retains 


72  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

enou2:h  to  encliant.     In  its  centre  stood  the  famous  statue  of 

O 

Minerva,  "whose  gilded  spear  could  be  seen  from  Cape  Colonna. 
The  setting  sun  was  gilding  Hymettus'  crest  and  mellowing  the 
landscape  as  we  descended. 

29th,  Wednesday,  PiRiEUS. — ^Yesterday  finished  our  sight- 
seeing; visited  the  Stadium,  crossed  the  Ilyssus,  saw  the  choragic 
.monument  of  Lysicrates,  Temple  of  the  Winds,  and  Hadrian's 
iGranary,  a  very  handsome  building. 

To-day  came  down  expecting  to  find  the  French  steamer. 
Met  Mr.  Hill,  who  took  us  to  call  upon  Mr.  Black,  whose  wife 
was  Byron's  "  Maid  of  Athens."  Mr.  B.  is  a  professor  with 
every  requisite  for  success  but  good  lack.  Mrs.  B.,  dark  hair 
and  eyes,  with  prett}^  teeth.  The  daughter  is  a  very  pretty  young 
ladv  of  nineteen. 

The  steamer  not  coming,  we  stayed  with  some  very  nice  people, 
American  missionaries.  In  the  evening  a  niece  of  our  friend, 
Mr.  Rallie,  of  Odessa,  came  in — a  young  lady  of  eighteen,  who 
was  soon  to  be  married  to  a  Greek  merchant  in  London  whom 
she  had  never  seen.  They  have  a  curious  custom  in  these 
affairs.  If  a  gentleman  is  pleased  with  a  young  lady  he  tells  some 
mutual  friend,  who  informs  her  parents.  If  they  like  him  they 
settle  upon  the  amount  of  her  dowry,  and  propose  to  the  young 
man  or  his  family ;  but  it's  a  great  disgrace  for  the  young  man  to 
propose  first.  Often  the  matches  are  made  by  the  families  with- 
out either  party  seeing  the  other.  Called  to  see  a  daughter  of 
Marco  Bozzaris,  but  she  was  out  of  town. 

The  priests,  as  usual,  are  illiterate — the  monks  are  looked  down 
on.  Their  establishments  are  of  ancient  foundation.  The 
Ejng  as  small  in  mind  as  bod}^,  with  no  sympathy  for  the  coun- 
try.    Yery  few  roads  and  those  bad. 

The  country,  if  properly  cultivated,  would  be  very  productive 
and  of  great  adaptability  for  most  things.  Greek  honesty  and 
integrity  are  commodities  unknown. 


THE   LADIES   OF   SMYENA.  73 

Smyrna,  October  31. — Yesterday  started  for  this  place  with 
some  English  friends.  "Was  introduced  to  Col.  Rawlinson,  now 
on  his  way  to  Mosul. 

At  our  hotel  several  New  Yorkers,  en  route  for  Syria  or 
Egypt.     One  had  lately  returned  from  Iceland. 

Just  seen  an  Enghsh  paper  with  the  distribution  of  prizes  at 
tiie  Great  Exhibition,  and  gi-atified  to  find  in  the  scientific 
department,  we've  come  off  with  flying  colors,  though  that  eagle 
did  spread  his  wings  over  a  blank  space  in  the  large  room. 

The  country  is  swarming  with  robbers,  and  since  the  Dutch 
Consul  was  carried  off  a  few  days  since  from  his  garden,  and 
only  released  on  paying  of  twentj^-five  hundred  dollars,  all  the 
merchants  have  moved  into  town.  The  government  takes  very 
little  trouble  to  suppress  the  robbers,  and  all  its  expeditions 
against  them,  are  got  up  with  such  a  parade  they  have  time  to 
run  away. 

The  ladies  have  a  custom  (for  strangers  very  pleasant)  of  sit- 
ting afternoons  at  their  doors,  in  full  dress,  sewing  or  gossipping 
with  their  opposite  neighbors;  many  of  them  are  pretty.  They 
mostly  adopt  the  European  style  of  dress ;  a  few  wear  the  scarf 
on  the  head  and  a  fez  (red  cap)  with  the  hair  in  a  large  braid 
around  the  forehead,  with  a  veil  instead  of  a  bonnet.  There 
are  many  Armenians  here ;  they  are  the  Jews  of  the  east  in  finan- 
cial matters.  At  Smyrna,  they  indulge  in  a  perfect  Babel  of 
languages.  The  Dutch  Consul's  wife  is  English  or  American: 
they  have  four  sons  and  two  daughters :  the  sons  are  married  to 
English,  American,  Italian,  and  Danish  ladies — the  daughters  to  a 
Frenchman  and  a  Maltese. 

Monday^   November  Sd. — Started  this    afternoon  for  Beirut, 

about  half  a  dozen  passengers,  among  them  Capt.  C an 

English  officer,  and  great  traveller,  who  was  with  Fremont  on 
his  Rocky  Mountain  Expedition. 

BeirtjT,  November  8th. — First  night:— had  a  glimpse  of  Patmos. 


74  FKOM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Second  day,  stopped  at  Rhodes,  where  are  many  remains  of  the 
Knights  of  St.  John,  in  the  armorial  bearings  on  the  houses  and 
church.  There  are  two  harbors,  both  very  small.  Third  day, 
stopped  at  Cyprus :  went  to  Larnica  the  sea-port, — supposed  to 
be  the  ancient  Citpum  where  Zeno  was  born,  and  Cimon  the 
Athenian  general  died — j^assed  Paphos,  where  Venus,  springing 
from  the  foam  of  the  sea,  landed,  and  where  stood  her  hundred 
temples. ' 

We  arrived  at  this  place  at  seven  this  morning,  and  are  in  a 
capital  eastern  hotel,  by  the  water.  We  have  had  a  cabinet 
council  over  our  plans.  One  LL.D.,  and  two  members  of  the 
bar  (of  New  Orleans  and  New  York),  with  precedent  and  con- 
tracts, against  .a  shrivelled  up  Arab.  We  succeeded,  he  rolled 
up  his  eyes  and  remarked  he  was  a  poor  Arab,  and  Allah  is 
great.  One  of  the  great  questions  being  the  Backsheesh  (present) 
the  great  motive  power  in  every  rank  in  every  country,  only 
known  under  different  names,  ^'pou7^  hoire^^  office  or  something  else. 

Nov.  llih. — We  and  Mr.  Smith  (the  distinguished  missionary, 

formerly  a  classmate  at  Yale  with  my  friend),  IST ,  C , 

and  all  started  off,  they  for  a  tour  through  Syria,  and  we  to  El 
Kelb  to  see  some  Assyrian  inscriptions  on  the  rocks  in  cuneiform 
character. 

I've  just  returned  from  Mr.  Smith's  studio,  where  he  is 
engaged  in  translating  the  Bible  into  Arabic.  Yankee  like,  he 
has  made  an  improvement  in   the   arrangement  of  the  type. 

There  are  in  the  English  press,  one  hundred  and  fifty  kinds 
of  letters  and  points :  in  the  Arabic,  eighteen  hundred !  In  the 
study,  the  books  are  arranged  on  the  three  sides  of  the  room  on 
a  continuous  desk ;  they  are  all  wide  open,  and  in  constant  use, — 
twelve  Bibles  in  five  languages,  two  commentaries,  two  concord- 
ances, four  dictionaries,  four  Hebrew  grammars,  three  in  Arabic, 
and  a  book  on  particles.  His  method  is  to  get  a  good  translator 
to  make  a  good  translation  from  Hebrew  into  Arabic ;  he  then 
examines  it,  comparing  it  with  the  translations  of  the  Bibles  he 


STREET  SIGHTS.  75 

has,  and  after  his  corrections,  re-examines  it  with  a  very  learned 
grammarian,  who  copies  it.  They  then  .print  one  hundred  and 
twenty  copies,  and  send  them  to  the  various  Arabic  scholars  in 
Europe  and  America,  requesting  them  to  make  any  corrections 
they  may  consider  necessary.  He  has  got  to  the  fifth  chapter  of 
Numbers,  which  he  finished  to-day. 

Returning,  saw  some  camels  carrying  sticks  of  timber,  thirty 
and  forty  feet  long.  As  they  occasionally  oscillated,  the  poor 
brutes  were  in  momentary  fear  of  a  rap  on  their  heads,  which 
they  avoided  by  dodging.  Our  things  went  oQ"  to  the  consulate 
to-day.  Such  loads  I've  never  seen  on  mortal  man  before :  one 
had  two  small  but  very  heavy  trunks  on  his  back,  held  by  a 
fine  cord  passed  round  his  forehead :  on  top  of  that  a  camp  table 
and  legs,  over  his  head  Achmet  put  the  camp  stools,  one  part 
of  which  refused  to  go  over  his  nose,  but  he  gave  it  a  jerk  almost 
jamming  the  poor  fellow's  proboscis  into  his  face :  on  either  side 
of  his  head  hung  two  heavy  leather  water  jugs:  he  finished  the 
load  with  a  furnace  and  saddle,  all  to  be  carried  nearly  a  mile 
for ten  cents ! and  that  rather  above  the  usual  price. 

Wandering  through  the  town,  saw  a  little  blackey  sold  (so 
black,  I  believe  charcoal  would  almost  have  made  a  white 
mark  on  him),  a  boy  of  twelve,  who,  when  his  purchaser  wished 
to  take  him  away,  made  furious  fight  with  feet,  teeth,  and  voice ; 
his  late  owner  cuffed  and  scolded ;  the  buyer,  a  very  mild  man, 
did  the  persuasive  and  coaxed,  but  all  of  no  avail.  I  left,  and 
perhaps  they  are  hard  at  it  yet. 

The  town  is  by  a  little  bay,  on  the  site  of  ancient  Earytus. 
This  morning  watched  some  men  roofing  a  house  with  mortar. 
There  were  a  dozen  with  flat  pounders,  their  feet  and  pounders 
keeping  time  to  a  song  by  their  leader ;  such  a  performance  by 
twelve  big-breeched  fellows  would  have  convulsed  a  New  York 
mason  or  roofer. 

All  the  travellers  have  gone  but  my  friend  and  self, — our  sole 
companion  in  the  dining-room  is  a  bulbul,  who  tries  to  brighten 
our  solitude  with  his  cheerful  notes.     They  look  somewhat  like 


76  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

our  mocking-birds,  but  smaller ;  tlieir  note  is  more  of  a  shrill 
whistle  than  a  continuous  song. 

SiDOisr,  Nov.  14:tli. — After  a  hard  day's  ride  from  Beirut  this 
morning,  we  are  cooped  up  in  a  sort  of  rubbish  room  about  ten 
feet  square.  After  leaving  the  rough  lanes,  bordered  by  scraggy, 
prickly  pears,  followed  the  seashore,  and  met  several  friends 
returning  from  Jerusalem.  One  of  them  a  militia  general  from 
Albany,  more  skilled  in  trotting  horses  than  in  military  tactics, 
who,  in  his  simplicity  wore,  by  mistake,  at  all  the  balls  while  in 
Europe,  a  full  marshal's  dress  for  a  major-general's  !  He  had  a 
large  parchment  from  the  Governor  of  New  York  to  inquire 
into  the  state  .of  the  cavalry  in  Eussia,  To-day  his  first  sentence 
after  "  How-do-you-do,"  was,  "  I  made  the  trip  from  Moscow  to 
Odessa  in  six  hours  and  twenty  minutes, — less  time  than  ever 
done  before,"  overlooking  in  his  speed  Elizavagrad,  where  the 
Emperor  keeps  a  large  cavalry  dtpot^  and  had  eighty  thousand 
cavalry  there  at  a  review  a  few  years  ago.  Passed  over  some 
remains  of  Eoman  road,  and  the  temple  where  the  whale 
"beached"  Jonah. 

Solomon's  Fountain,  Nov.  15th. — Still  skirting  the  sea, 
passing  ruins,  and  the  town  of  Zareptlia  (in  the  Bible),  at  three 
entered  Tyre,  the  "Island  Cit}'-,"  connected  with  the  land  by  a 

« 

narrow  causeway  of  sand  beach  half  a  mile  long.  Truly,  the 
prophecy  has  been  fulfilled,  and  describes  most  literally  its 
ruined  walls,  "  Thou  shalt  be  a  place  to  spread  nets  upon." 
Then  to  this  place,  large  reservoirs,  said  to  have  been  made  by 
Solomon.  This  morning,  as  I  stopped  to  water  my  horse  at  a 
fountain,  an  cx-pasha,  who  was  breakfasting  a  short  distance 
off,  surrounded  by  his  suite,  sent  me  an  invitation  to  join  him, 
but  I  was  obliged,  for  want  of  time,  to  decline.  We  have  been 
trying  to  manufacture  some  meat-biscuit  soup, — a  newly -patented 
article  my  friend  found  while  commissioner  at  the  Exhibition : 
so  he,  with  spectacles,  watch,  and  direction,  read  and  timed, 


MOUNT  CARMEL  AND  JAFFA.  77 

while  I  with  tucked  up  sleeves,  spoon,  jar,  and  pot  of  hot  water, 
did  the  scientific  culinary,  and  Achmet,  with  hands  in  his  pock- 
ets, the  spectator.  As  you  may  readily  imagine  it  proved  admi- 
rable under  such  efficient  artistes. 

Mount  Carmel,  VJtk. — Yesterday  and  to-day  still  along  the 
sea-shore.  To-day  saw  Hiram's  tomb ;  passed  through  several 
large  orange  groves  laden  with  their  golden  fruit,  also  the  pretty 
garden  of  a  pasha :  then  visited  the  fortifications  of  Acre.  The  con- 
vent is  on  the  front  of  a  spur  of  the  mountain  almost  overhanging 
the  sea ;  saw  on  their  books  the  names  of  many  of  my  friends. 

Jaffa,  November  20. — Still  on  the  coast,  passing  Atleth 
and  Caesarea,  with  their  extensive  ruins.  The  consular  agent 
has  put  us  in  his  house  near  the  town ;  a  fine  pipe  of  water  runs 
into  his  garden.  After  our  warm  ride  we  soon  had  our  coats  off, 
and  dove  in  like  a  couple  of  ducks.  Was  near  being  spilt 
into  a  tan  vat  (of  which  there  are  as  many  as  in  Peter's  time). 
"While  riding  sideways  my  horse  became  frightened  and  restive ; 
spurs  and  holsters  would  not  allow  me  to  get  my  leg  back 
again,  and  I  was  becoming  resigned  to  be  manufactured  into 
sole-leather. 

Saw  a  funeral  as  we  passed  through  the  town, — the  body  on  a 
donkey,  followed  by  a  priest  and  a  dozen  women  singing,  neither 
in  time  nor  tune,  to  a  discordant  banjo.  The  women  wear  long 
dresses  and  scarf,  part  of  which  envelopes  the  head.  One  article 
of  dress  answers  for  the  men,  who  wear  a  girdle  around  their 
waist,  the  dress  is  not  troublesome  from  length.  We  asked  our 
host  about  a  place  ten  miles  distant;  said  he  had  never  been 
there,  or  away  from  home  but  once,  and  then  to  make  a  pilgrim- 
age to  Jerusalem, — thirty-five  miles ! 

November  22. — "Gaza  the  Strong."  Yesterday  at  Ashdod, 
tried  in  vain  to  find  Ekron.  Bible  says  "is  not,"  and  I'm  quite 
of  that  belief.  Saw  a  wedding  at  a  distance,  all  dancing  merrily 
to  the  banjo.     Stopped  at  Askalon,  of  which  little  but  detached 


78  FROM   WAT.L   STREET   TO    CASHJIERE. 

bits  of  wall  and  parts  of  towers  is  left.  Met  two  Algerine  pil- 
grims here,  on  their  way  from  Mecca ;  pretended  we  wished  a 
servant  to  accompany  us  to  America,  and  bargained  with  one 
much  to  the  amusement  of  his  companions ;  but  the  condition 
that  staggered  the  ragamuffin  was,  he  must  wear  coat  and  trow- 
sers  like  us. 

We  got  a  boy  to  bring  us  some  tomatoes,  which  we  had  seen 
in  a  garden  ;  he  soon  returned  with  a  pocketful.  As  their  dress 
is  only  one  robe,  he  had  pulled  a  little  extra  shirt  above  his  belt 
for  pocket,  and  his  body  made  the  lining  ;  we  had  a  good  laugh 
at  the  novel  pocket. 

As  there  have  been  Bedouins  about  the  town  lately,  our  dra- 
goman has  provided  guards ;  so  we  shall  be  safe  if  attacked  ;  for 
now,  at  near  midnight,  I  hear  them  snoring  a  discordant  quar- 
tette. From  the  cultivation  of  the  country  I  should  fancy  the 
people  all  Fourierites.  Their  agricultural  implements  of  the 
rudest  description,  the  plough  a  crooked  branch. 

Achmet  has  come  in  with  the  news  of  war  in  the  desert, 
between  the  tribes  whose  country  we  cross,  and  we  may  be 
robbed  or  murdered !  Inspiriting.  Some  magnate  is  to  be 
married,  and  nightly  receives  a  furious  serenade — like  the  Dutch 
ones  on  the  Hudson. 

November  24, — This  morning  we  were  off,  cracking  jokes  at 
our  novel  steeds  (camels),  Achmet  scolding,  camel-men  shouting, 
and  animals  growling — passed  some  armed  and  mounted  Be- 
douins. 

Elarisit,  November  26ih. — In  quarantine  three  days,  before 
entering  Egypt.  The  superintendent  has  got  our  names,  and 
those  of  our  fathers,  though  my  friend's  has  been  dead  fifty  years. 
Last  night  a  sheik  came  for  his  tribute,  but  we  have  put  him  off 
with  two  sour  oranges  until  we  leave  this  place. 

To-day  have  been  amused  by  seeing  the  Turkish  officers  prac- 
tising the  jereed, — a  small  stick  five  feet  long — from  whichever 
side  it  is  thrown  the  horse  wheels  and  rushes  with  great  rapidity. 


ARRIVAL   AT   CAIRO.  79 

This  evening  saw  a  ludicrous  aflfair  in  front  of  our  tent ;  one  of 
our  men  is  a  Nubian,  about  "  seven  feet  nothing"  high,  and  pro- 
portionably  thin ;  he's  for  ever  at  his  prayers,  polishing  his  feet 
and  arms  with  sand,  which  the  Prophet  allows  in  absence  of 
water.  While  in  the  midst  of  a  prayer  he  heard  the  rattling  of 
the  pot  cover ;  at  a  glance  he  discovered  the  matter;  his  gourmand 
companion  was  about  attacking  their  supper,  not  liking  to  tax  the 
strength  of  his  religious  zeal  by  a  continuance  of  his  "genuflex- 
ions," but  with  a  hasty  amen,  hurried  to  keep  him  company. 

November  30ih. — The  "  Medicos  "  were  to  see^  us  this  morning 
and  give  us  a  clean  bill  of  health ;  so  we  all  marched  out,  exhibit- 
ing our  tongues ;  one  man  was  found  missing,  blackey,  who  was 
soon  espied  and  signalled ;  he  came  rushing  up,  rags  flying, 
thinking  it  the  jolliest  fun.  My  friend  wished  his  inkstand 
filled,  those  sheets  of  manuscript  he  has  been  throwing  off  like 
a  printer's  press,  for  three  daj^s  past,  having  reduced  it;  but, 
being  in  a  wooden  case,  the  bottle  must  be  taken  out  and  carried 
by  a  string  to  the  town  to  avoid  contagion. 

In  one  place  to-day,  saw  them  watering  camels,  drawing  water 
with  a  broken  pitcher,  a  wooden  wash-bowl  receiving  it !  This 
evening  a  crowd  of  Arabs  visiting  Blackie,  who  claims  the 
people  of  the  Desert  as  friends. 

Cairo,  December  8th. — Tliis  morning  entered  this  most  pic- 
turesque city,  after  an  amusing  yet  rather  fatiguing  journey. 

The  Desert  is  neither  a  waste  of  soft  sand,  nor  cultivated,  but 
either  a  succession  of  rolling  hills  or  plain  of  compact  sand, 
sometimes  hard  and  gravelly.  Passed,  yesterday,  the  bed  of  the 
ancient  canal,  cut  by  Arsinoe,  from  the  Mediterranean  to  the 
Red  Sea.  The  dromedary  gait  is  fatiguing,  from  the  constant 
oscillating  motion  of  the  body,  which  you  support  by  a  wide  sash 
wound  several  times  round  the  waist.  The  city  looked  lovely 
as  we  entered,  like  a  June  morning  with  us.  We  passed  the  old 
obelisk,  and  site  of  Heliopolis,  built  some  forty  years  before  the 
tune  of  Joseph  and  "  Mrs.  Potiphar."     Passed  some  slovenly- 


80  FRO]\I   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

looking  soldiers  practising  sabre  cutting  on  wet  clay  figures. 
Arrived  in  the  city,  selected  our  hotel,  called  to  sec  our  friends, 

and  present  my  letter  to  the  honorable  Mrs.  C M , 

wife  of  the  English  Consul-General,  a  well-known  and  esteemed 
countrywoman,  who,  I  learned,  had  died  suddenly  that  morning. 
Then  chose  our  boat. 

December  12th. — This  afternoon  on  board  our  boat  and  up  the 
Nile,  after  seeing  most,  if  not  all,  the  sights,  fortress,  mosques, 
including  the  beautiful  new  one  Mohammed  Ali  built  of  alabas- 
ter, in  the  form  'of  a  Maltese  cross ;  palace  and  mausoleum  of 
Mohammed  All's  children,  monuments  so  numerous,  of  irregular 
heights,  and  peculiar  form,  they  looked  like  a  badly  kept  aspara- 
gus bed ;  the  slave  market  and  beautiful  tombs  of  the  Mameluke 
kings. 

Going  through  the  bazaars  one  day,  saw  a  crowd,  and  heard 
(Egyptian)  harmonious  strains  preceding  a  miserable  looking 
"young  one"  of  about  ten,  gaudily  dressed  ;  learned  he  was  to 
be  circumcised,  a  ceremony  they  still  perform,  but  not  until 
attaining  as  many  years  as  the  Jews  allow  days.  "We  have  one 
of  the  usual  so-oft-described  sail-boats  of  the  Nile,  that  travel 
has  induced  these  unprogressive  people,  from  interest,  to  make  so 
comfortable.  The  coffee-grinding  machine  of  our  crew  is  like 
the  old  fashioned  samp  mortars  in  size  and  arrangement. 

Nile,  Christmas^  1851. — We  have  sailed  and  been  towed 
alternately  against  the  downward  current.  Heard  from  a  French 
sugar  manufacturer  of  the  coiq^  d'etat  at  Paris.  This  morning 
strained  our  eyes  for  some  wanderer  of  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  or 
Eed  Cross,  to  help  us  to  jollify  the  day,  but  in  vain  ;  so  we  did 
our  best  at  M.  Edward's  (onr  Arab  cook)  dinner,  whose  nonde- 
script names  and  cookery  would  have  crazed  "  Yattel's  "  brain. 
Then  drank  to  the  health  of  our, "  absent  friends  "  and  "  noble 
selves." 

New  Year's  Day^  1852. — Even  duller  than  Christmas 


THE   FIRST  CATAEACT   OF  THE  NILE.  81 

Thebes,  January  Zd. — At  last  one  of  the  great  objects  of  our 
voyage  attained ;  met  some  friends  and  took  a  donkey  ride  to 
the  ruins  of  Karnak,  magnificently  grand  and  beautiful  as  the  full 
moon  threw  her  silver  rays  along  massive  columned  halls,  or 
over  crumbling  shattered  wall,  obelisk,  or  sphinx.  Had  a  guide 
mounted  and  armed  with  long  spear,  for  ruin  gazing  by  midnight 
is  not  very  safe  in  these  latitudes. 

EsNE,  bth  January. — Stopped  for  the  double  purpose  of  pro- 
visioning and  seeing  the  famous  Almeh  dancers,  who  have  been 
banished  to  this  place  by  the  virtuous  Egyptian  government, 
who,  when  the  Yiceroy  travels  on  the  Nile,  takes  three  steamers, 
one  for  himself  and  suite,  the  other  two  for  the  harems  of  women 
and  boys.  The  dancing  certainly  is  repulsively  disgusting  in  its- 
best  form,  not  to  speak  of  it  in  its  variations,  when  they  cater  to 
the  low  tastes  of  their  visitors. 

January  Sth,  Assouan. — (Head  of  the  lower  Nile  and  first 
cataract.)  Came  in  with  flying  colors  after  a  sharp  race  of 
twelve  hours,  with  a  smacking  breeze,  passing  all  the  other  boats. 
Being  the  anniversary  of  the  Battle  of  New  Orleans,  my  friend's 
flag  has  been  flying  all  day. 

Among  the  pleasant  interchanges  of  civilities  on  the  river,  is 
the  saluting,  by  the  ascending  boat,  every  returning  one,  which 
of  course  returns  it,  irrespective  of  nation. 

January  11th. — Went  up  the  cataract  yesterday  ;  rowed,  drag- 
ged or  pulled  by  fifty  or  sixty  noisy,  nude  vagabonds.  The 
boatmen  never  overload  themselves  with  clothes:  last  winter 
a  gentleman  coming  up  with  his  wife  and  daughter,  thought 
one  of  his  men  displayed  a  paucity  of  clothing  for  even  decency, 
so  gave  him  a  pair  of  trowsers : — next  morning  he  saw  them  con- 
verted into  a  turban ! 

The  appearance  of  the  country  is  now  entirely  changed',, 
instead  of  low  flat  banks,  rough  rugged  mountains.     I  beheve 

6 


82  FRO:\I   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

I've  not  mentioned  that  the  country  is  irrigated  nine  months  in 
the  year,  artificially,  by  water-wheels,  which  go  night  and  day ; 
thus  their  eternal  squeaking  furnishes  poor  travellers  with  their 
evening  "lullaby"  and  daily  solace;  you  know  "music  hath 
charms,"  etc. 

January  17 tJi. — Wadee  Halfeh  (second  cataract).  Got  here  at 
eleven  this  evening — with  little  to  vary  the  monotony  of  being 
towed  and  sailing,  save  a  few  shots  at  crocodiles,  and  daily 
shooting  on  shore. 


"O 


ISth. — Visited  the  cataract — a  long  rapid.  Saw  two  gazelles. 
Crossed  the  river  in  a  boat.  The  donkey  boys  lift  their  animals 
forelegs  in,  and  giving  them  a  push  behind,  they  necessarily  jerk 
the  others  in  after  to  save  a  fall. 

.    A  man  brought  us  half  a  pint  of  peanuts  to  sell,  his  whole 
stock  in  trade — an  importer  of  these  parts. 

This  afternoon  started  downward,  when  the  boats  usually 
row  or  drift,  the  wind  always  being  up  stream. 

January  26. — Philae,  first  cataract  again,  after  eight  hundred 
miles.  Arrived  this  morning,  visiting,  en  route,  the  various 
ruins  and  rock-cut  temples  of  Aboo  Simbul — Ibreeim — Derr — 
Gerf  Hassan — Kalabshee — Taphis,  and  others. 

Having  taught  myself  drawing  while  we  were  going  up  the 
Nile,  I  made  my  first  essay  on  our  return,  at  the  first  temple, 
and  certainly  under  difficulties ;  for  with  only  self-taught  know- 
ledge, I  endeavored  to  get  the  four  walls,  ceiling,  and  floor  in  my 
sketch,  and  to  help  the  difficulty,  my  Reis  (boat  captain)  on  his 
knees  kissing  my  feet  and  begging  for  backsheesh.  My  next  trial 
was  at  Aboo  Simbul,  where  it  was  so  close  I  nearly  suffocated ; 
and  in  their  assiduity  to  gain  favor  and  backsheesh,  they  nearly 
burnt  me  up  with  their  torches  and  sparks ;  and  with  varied 
adventures  in  that  way,  and  usual  experiences  of  Nile  travellers. 

One  evening  saluted  a  boat  very  close  to  us,  which  hailed  us 


EETURN  TO   CAIEO,  83 

in  return,  and  gave  an  invitation  to  visit  a  ruin  by  torchlight. 
Found  tlic  man  a  French  savan  sent  out  by  his  government. 
He  gave  us,  on  parting,  a  letter  to  some  friends  in  Thebes,  who, 
he  said,  would  do  the  honors  of  the  tombs. 

Grot  here  at  eight  in  the  morning,  the  time  they  say  the  Prophet 
decreed  for  going  over  the  cataract — over  we  went.  A  grand 
affair  it  is,  often  compared  to  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
but  infinitely  superior. 

Found  lots  of  friends,  among  others  Cathcart  and  Noel,  whom 
we  parted  with  at  Beirut.  They  had  been  to  Palmyra,  where  they 
were  discovered  by  a  wandering  tribe,  and  after  a  barricade  of 
several  days  they  escaped. 

Cairo,  February  17. — Eeturned  this  morning  after  a  delightful 
voyage  of  two  months  (and  1800  miles),  having  visited  every- 
thing of  note  or  interest.  We  spent  a  week  at  Thebes,  exploring 
its  massive  ruins  and  sepulchral  wonders. 

Met  a  queer  countryman  from  Michigan,  who  canied  a  beaver 
for  his  flag ;  told  a  friend  of  mine  he  was  editor  of  two  religious 
papers,  and  travelling  for  dyspepsia,  to  cure  which  he  lived  on 
cheese  and  onions. 

lOlli. — Cairo  is  full  of  Americans  and  English,  about  equally 
divided.  To-day  were  invited  to  witness  a  grand  bastinadoing ; 
of  the  dignitaries  of  a  village,  for  some  quarrel  a  blustering 
Tennessean  had  got  himself  into,  in  which  his  servant  was  shot 
and  he  somewhat  injured ;  when,  of  course^  the  natives  were  to 
blame  (our  people  never  are !) 

24<A. — We  have  had  our  heads  shaved,  and  I  take  it  the  sig- 
nificant Texas  phrase,  "his  hair  is  too  long,"  (meaning  a  fellow 
who  wears  long  hair  to  hide  the  remains  of  his  ears,  clipped  for 
hog-stealing),  won't  apply  to  us  for  some  months.  My  friends 
hardly  knew  whether  to  laugh  or  cry  at  this  novel  "fix." 

Taking  an  adieu  of  our  Consul,  met  two  members  of  the  Cairo 


84  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

"  bar," — a  young  Arab,  and  a  drunken  Englishman,  We  started, 
a  grand  cavalcade,  two  tents,  ten  camels,  four  drivers,  and  four 
servants;  our  camels  with  loads  of  ourselves,  kegs  of  water, 
wicker  coops  of  chicks,  turkeys,  and  panniers  of  provender — "  eat" 
and  "  drink."  Our  whole  train  and  parties  had  fifteen  servants, 
fifty-two  camel  drivers,  and  sixty-eight  camels.  As  we  came  out 
of  Cairo,  saw  some  Egyptian  soldiers  on  guard  who  were  knit- 
ting; wonder  what  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  Duke  of  Wellington, 
or  our  distinguished  Commander-in-Chief,  —  "Fuss  and 
Feathers"  (to  use  the  sobriquet  of  the  "Point"  cadets)  would 
say  ?  You  see  we  travel  luxuriously,  for  as  a  friend  observed, 
who  was  joked  on  his  comfortable  high-post  bedstead,  "  the  camel 
carries  it,"  and  so  we  say  of  our  luxuries. 

"Wells  of  Moses,"  February  28th. — Started  the  afternoon 
of  the  24th,  my  friend  persuading  me  to  let  the  quarrelsome 
Tennessean  and  his  "  unlicked  cub"  of  a  protege  join  us,  to 
reduce  expense,  and  "  I  reckon  "  he  has  found  they  are  not  up  to 
"  musta."  Four-fifths  of  his  words  are  oaths ;  fingers  and  table 
napkins  his  mouchoir.  So  you  may  realize  the  agreeable  com- 
panionship to  my  courtly  compagnon  de  voyage. 

The  journey  from  Cairo,  pleasant,  passing  the  Eagged  Tree  (a 
tree  where  each  returning  Mecca  pilgrim  deposits  a  rag). 

Robinson's  and  Smith's  book  on  the  Holy  Land,  our  text-book 
of  travel  (as  well  as  that  of  all  travellers) ;  I  quite  agree  with 
them  as  to  the  place  where  the  Eed  Sea  was  crossed  by  the 
Israelites. 

Mount  Sinai,  March  bth. — Reached  this  place  this  afternoon, 
putting  up  for  the  night  at  the  convent  (St.  Catharine's) — found 
several  friends  here.  On  our  way  from  Suez  and  Wells  of  Moses 
stopped  at  the  "  Waters  of  Marah," — they  are  still  bitter  (bitter 
means  brackish).  Encamped  near  the  "  Wells  of  Elim."  Passed 
through  Waddy  LIukattid  (the  supposed  route  of  the  Israelites). 

There  are  many  inscriptions  on  the  rocks  here,  that  very  much 


JEBEL   MUSA.  85 

puzzle  antiquarians.  Then  on  by  Mount  Tubal,  whicli  some  sup- 
pose to  be  the  "  Sinai "  of  the  Scriptures.  And  this  afternoon, 
Waddy-er-Rahab,  Robinson's  "  Plain  of  the  Law-Giving."  A 
plain  about  two  and  a-half  miles  long,  by  three-quarters  broad. 

March  6th  {The  Jewish  Sunday). — This  morning  we  ascended 
"  Jebel  Musa  "  in  the  rear  of  the  convent.  It  is  the  Sinai  of  the 
monks.  We  had  a  priest  for  guide ;  passed  several  fountains  of 
Moses,  also  chapels,  at  each  of  the  latter  he  stopped  to  mumble  a 
prayer.  Near  the  top  is  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  where  we  saw  an 
amusing  pantomime  by  one  of  our  Arab  boys,  who  was  bringing 
provisions,  etc.  He  wished  to  explain  that  it  was  the  place  where 
Moses  hid  himself  when  the  Almighty  passed  by.  He  crouched 
under,  and  pressing  himself  as  tightly  as  possible  against  the 
sides,  looked  out  of  the  corner  of  his  eye  to  the  sky,  and  whis- 
pered, "  Allah!  "  This  mountain  peak  is  by  many  thought  to 
be  Sinai,  though  Robinson  says  the  other,  or  western  end,  is, 
which  is  very  much  more  likely.  Then  we  descended  from  the 
peak,  continuing  along  the  summit  of  the  mountain  to  the  other 
extremity — Es-Sufsafeh  or  Robinson's  Sinai.  He  calls  the  range 
Horeb,  and  this  peak  Sinai, 

On  our  descent,  passed  the  rock  Moses  is  said  to  have  struck 
for  water.  Our  tents  having  been  put  up  we  did  not  return  to 
the  convent. 

March  7th. — Went  up  to  the  convent  to  see  the  service,  then 
the  "burning  bush,"  where  we,  in  imitation  of  Moses,  were 
obliged  to  unshoe.  It  is  covered  with  a  silver  grating.  It  is 
not  a  bush,  but  a  vine,  and  as  it  dies  away  in  the  autumn,  very 
little  is  left ;  it's  the  "  Simon  Pure"  and  no  mistake,  so  believe 
it,  unless  you  desire  to  be  considered  a  heathen,  Turk,  or  infidel. 
Then  Jethro's  well,  where  Moses'  gallantry  got  him  a  wife.  The 
waters  are  now  used  for  distilling  arrack,  for  which  these  good 
fathers  have  rather  a  weakness,  judging  from  the  ocular  proof 
I  had. 


86  FKOM   WALL   STKEET  TQ   CASHMERE. 

They  make  a  date  cheese,  composed  of  dates  and  almonds. 
The  library  has  two  thousand  volumes,  mostly  Greek  and  Latin. 
They  have  a  curious  way  of  arranging  the  dead  bodies  of  the 
monks ;  after  the  flesh  is  decomposed,  they  put  the  skulls  in  one 
place,  and  the  bones  in  other  places,  each  kind  by  itself. 

March  8lh. — I  have  just  returned  from  sketching  the  convent 
and  Sinai ;  our  delectable  Tennessean  is  back  from  his  ascent  of 
Mt.  St.  Catharine,  half  dead  with  fatigue,  as  are  the  Englishmen 
who  accompanied ;  we  shall  start  to-morrow  morning,  and  they 
will  miss  ascending  Sinai.  We  are  a  charming  invahded  party ; 
besides  those  "  dead  beat"  from  their  mountain  ascent,  our  "un- 
licked  cub  "  of  the  "West  has  been  sick  ever  since  starting  ;  and 
I  have  a  sprained  thumb  by  way  of  eking  out  the  "  kilts."  One 
man,  in  another  party,  has  a  gouty  foot  he  contrived  to  get 
mashed  by  a  donkey  in  Cairo,  while  all  the  rest  have  teethache 
or  colds,  including  "  the  beauty  from  Cork,"  a  very  nice  Irish 
lady,  wife  of  one  of  the  travellers.  Another  is  sick  from  too  long 
exposure  when  we  all  took  a  "  dip"  in  the  Eed  Sea  at  the  "  de- 
sert of  sin." 

Last  night  was  terribly  cold,  the  water  as  it  oozed  from  the 
leathern  buckets  froze.  On  rising  this  morning  found  snow 
under  the  edge  of  my  tent. 

The  convent  is  situated  midway  up  a  narrow  defile  between 
two  valleys ;  it  is  a  curious  medley  of  buildings,  and  built  in 
the  time  of  Justinian,  half  fortress,  half  house,  and  has  seen 
many  troublous  times.  Dr.  Eobinson  makes  the  ancient  Rephi- 
dim,  W'here  "  Amalek  came  and  fought  with  Israel,"  to  be  very 
near  this.  These  mountains  were  the  refuge  of  early  Egyptian 
Christians. 

Akabah,  March  14:th. — Left  Mt.  Sinai  for  this  place  the  10th. 
Yarious  members  of  the  party  pairing  off,  always  walk  several 
hours,  first  collecting  gum  arable,  then  along  the  shore  of  the 
Gulf  of  Akabah,  with  lovely  views.     We  have  picked  up  much 


PREPARING  FOR  ANOTHER  START.  87 

coral  (red  and  white)  and  beautiful  sliells.  Among  our  amuse- 
ments or  pets,  two  sheep,  part  of  our  live  stock,  who  walk  the 
marches  until  we  require  their  presence  on  the  table,  after  which 
we  have  to  carry  them.  Near  the  present  Akabah  stood  Ezion- 
Geber,  one  of  Solomon's  ports  on  the  Eed  Sea.  "We  have  just 
had  a  visit  from  the  Governor,  a  forlorn-looking  old  Turk ;  and 
Sheik  Hassein,  the  head  of  the  Arabs  here  ;  a  very  dignified  old 
villain. 

There  is  a  question  of  backsheesh  among  the  Arabs,  in  dis- 
pute, that  will  probably  prevent  our  starting  for  several  days, 
until  they  arrange  it  among  themselves.  The  old  Governor's 
wife,  a  yellow  Abyssinian  woman,  has  been  to  call  upon  our 
lady  traveller  this  afternoon. 

17^/?. — To-day  Sheik  Hassein's  brother  arrived  with  the  pre- 
sent Sheik  of  Petra,  and  his  father  Abu  Zeitan  (Father  of 
Olives),  so  we  have  nicknamed  the  son,  "  The  Olive  S^Drig." 

This  evening  after  they  had  had  a  long  "pow-wow"  around 
the  camp-fire,  with  "fierce  debate,"  reminding  one  of  the  witches 
in  Macbeth,  they  adjourned  it  to  our  tent,  it  being  the  largest, 
and  made  an  amusing  scene.  Old  Hassein,  at  the  entrance,  in 
close  conference  with  three  dragomen ;  we  (the  members  of  the 
various  parties)  sitting  on  beds  or  trunks,  in  all  sorts  of  cos- 
tumes, from  crazy  0 in  his  fine  military  undress,  a  compro- 
mise of  every  division  in  the  army  (to  none  of  which  he  was 
entitled),  down  to  the  very  lowest  grade  of  desert  costume,  with 
moustache  and  whiskers  to  match.  In  the  midst  of  the  conference 
between  the  Sheik  and  dragomen  (who  were  working  to  cheat 
the  Sheik  of  Petra),  he  very  coolly  marched  in,  pipe  in  hand, 
and  as  coolly  surveying  the  party  quietly  took  a  seat,  to  the 
great  annoyance  of  old  Hassein,  a  regular  Paul  Pry, — "  hope  I 
don't  intrude"  scene  ;  however  we  are  to  start  to-morrow. 

Petra,  March  22d.~We  were  off  the  18th,  m  confusion  and 
uproar  with  our  new,  wild  camels,   and  sundry  damages  to 


88  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

liquor  and  crockery  by  their  summarily  relieving  themselves  of 
their  loads.  Of  mishaps  to  riders,  my  compagnon  de  voyage^  sel' 
fislthj  monopolized  them  all;  first,  his  camel  sprung  up,  leaving 
him  hanging  by  one  foot  in  the  stirrup,  and  holding  on  to  the 
horns  of  the  saddle,  till  the  brute  could  take  a  prance  for  a 
minute  or  so,  then  getting  composed  let  matters  be  comfortably 
arranged,  when  we  all  started  off.  Suddenly  I  heard,  "  Ugh !  ugh !" 
looking  around  saw  him  again  in  trouble,  making  a  "spread 
eagle"  of  himself  as  he  took  a  summerset  over  his  camel's  head, 
while  the  beast  was  apparently  trying  how  high  he  could  get 
his  hind  feet  in  the  air  when  going  at  full  speed ;  coats,  cushions, 
rugs,  umbrellas,  books,  and  all  the  varied  ei  ceieras  of  our  camel 
"  fixins"  were  flying  in  all  directions.  "We  soon  had  the  brute 
stopped.  His  rider  (who  luckily  had  sustained  no  injury)  with 
traps  on  his  back,  and  all  off  again  respectably. 

Continued  on ;  the  afternoon  of  the  fourth  day  ascended  to  Mt. 
Hor  and  top  of  Aaron's  tomb,  erected  by  the  Mussulmen ;  on 
into  the  valley  of  these  mountains  passing  varieties  of  fagades  of 
tombs  of  freestone,  in  every  tint.  At  last  pitched  our  tents  in 
the  middle  of  Petra,  the  capital  of  Lower  Idumea.  The  pro- 
phecy of,  "  Thou  shalt  be  desolate,  O  Mount  Seir,  and  all  Idu- 
mea," is  as  literally  fulfilled  here  as  in  the  Philistine  cities  of 
Ekron,  Askalon,  etc.,  in  Palestine. 

Yesterday  had  some  little  trouble  to  find  a  clear  place  to 
pitch  our  tent,  as  under  every  stone  is  at  least  one  scorpion,  and 
often  two  or  three.  In  the  night  were  awoke  by  some  firing.  I 
consulted  with  my  friend,  and  we  concluded  it  was  safer  to  keep 
still  in  bed  until  the  danger  came  nearer,  as  our  tent  was  not 
supposed  to  be  proof  against  stray  balls,  and  no  glory  in  dying 
under  such  circumstances,  besides  not  seeing  Petra  after  all  our 
rtrouble. 

This  morning  found  that  a  strange  tribe  had  seen  our  camp- 
fires,  and  coming  too  close,  had  been  fired  into  by  our  Arabs, 
-of  whom  we  have  a  host — about  one  hundred.  After  breakfast 
with  guide  (for  no  one  is  safe  from  wandering  Arabs  without 


PnARAOn's  CASTLE.  89 

one,  he  being  the  visible  certificate  of  the  sheik's  protection), 
our  little  party  ascended  some  hundreds  of  feet  to  the  "El 
Dhir."  An  exquisite  fagade,  the  architecture  of  Eome  in  its 
later  days,  facing  on  an  open,  grassy  plot  of  about  two  acres; 
the  name  signifies  convent,  but  it  was  one  of  the  many  fine 
tombs  of  Petra  in  its  "palmy  days,"  when  they  appear  to  have 
made  more  liberal  provision  for  the  dead  than  the  living.  The 
interior  is  very  rough,  consisting  of  only  two  or  three  rooms  on 
the  first  floor,  though  the  fagade  exhibits  two  stories. 

Then  the  "Khusne:"  passing  an  old  ruin  on  a  high  isolated 
peak  called  "  Pharaoh's  Castle,"  a  triumphal  arch  near  our  tents, 
a  small  theatre — seats  cut  in  the  rock,  and  on  through  a  narrow 
ravine  for  several  hundred  yards.  In  a  small  lateral  one  was  the 
"  Khusne,"  an  exquisite  fagade,  and  flattering  monument  to  the 
taste  and  skill  of  a  nation  who  have  passed  away  like  a  dream, 
without  even  a  record  in  history,  other  than  at  one  time  Petra 
was  the  great  centre  of  all  the  commerce  in  this  part  of  the 
world.  Now  it  is  a  desolation  in  the  fullest  sense  of  the  term ; 
not  even  an  Arab  dwells  among  its  ruins.  This,  like  "El 
Dhir,"  has  probably  been  a  tomb,  as  the  arrangements  are  the 
same,  though  its  architecture  more  elaborate;  its  name  means 
Treasur}^  The  Arabs,  supposing  there  was  gold  in  a  stone  urn 
over  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  door,  have  discharged  any  number 
of  bullets  at  it,  hoping  to  break  it  and  scatter  a  shower  of  the 
precious  metal,  as  there  is  no  other  way  for  them  to  reach  it. 

In  one  of  the  rooms  I  saw  the  names  of  Irby  and  Mangles, 
1818,  Stephens,  Eobertson,  and  Smith;  Burkhardt's  name  is 
said  to  be  here.  He  was  in  the  place  about  five  or  six  hours,  and 
only  succeeded  in  getting  here  as  a  pilgrim  from  Morocco  to  the 
tomb  of  Aaron, — but  his  close  observance  of  the  place  and  its 
ruins  excited  the  suspicions  of  the  Arabs  (they  are  ever  sus- 
picious in  regard  to  Petra,  which,  except  Palmyra,  is  the  most 
difficult  place  to  visit  in  this  part  of  the  East),  who  showed  him 
the  "bee-line"  out;  yet  he  has  written  the  best  description  of 
the  place,  notwithstanding  his  brief  visit. 


90  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

The  rocks  arc  of  sandstone,  with  every  shade  of  blue,  red, 
grey,  cream,  purple  and  brown.  Steps  originally  led  in  every 
direction  over  the  rocks,  but  time  and  rain  have  washed  them 
away,  and  hollowed  the  rocks  into  most  fantastic  shapes. 

Continuing  on  through  the  larger  ravine,  which  in  many 
places  is  not  above  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  wide,  and  in  none 
more  than  eighty,  with  walls  of  ragged  rock,  like  those  of  huge 
fissures,  rising  from  two  to  four  hundred  feet;  came  to  the  arch 
called  "Sikh," — perhaps  a  gate  formerly. 

On  either  side  of  this  passage  or  ravine,  once  a  street,  judging 
from  the  large  flag  and  pavement — on  either  side  are  earthen 
pipes  for  supplying  the  city  with  water,  or  to  furnish  an  exit  for 
its  superfluity. 

Following  the  street  we  soon  reached  the  entrance,  and  in  wan- 
dering about  saw  a  very  large  tunnel,  three  or  four  hundred  feet 
long,  cut  in  the  rock.  Mr.  Marsh  found  it  last  year  in  the  same 
way  and  thought  he  was  the  discoverer,  from  never  having  heard 
of  it  before. 

23cZ. — To-day  have  been  sketching  "El  Dhir,"  "Corinthian 
Tombs"  (a  fine  fagade  of  consecutive  tombs),  "  Khusne,"  and 
"Sikh,"  It  is  most  singular  how  Petra  ever  was  selected  as  the 
site  of  a  city,  when  so  difiicult  of  access. 

This  morning  saw  a  camel-branding  operation  ;  the  feet  of  the 
brute  are  tied  so  he  cannot  move,  while  the  more  brute  biped 
owner,  with  a  burning  brand,  makes  a  chequer-board,  or  some 
equally  tedious  device  on  the  belly  of  the  animal,  burning 
throu2;h  the  skin.  I  was  dressinsr  at  the  time,  and  hearing  the 
frantic  moans  of  the  camel,  looked  out. 

Ilih. — Started  again  the  24th,  after  w^e  had  all  satisfied  our 
curiosity : — and  some  had  made  blurred  photographs,  and  I  about 
equally  bad  sketches. 

The  next  day,  while  we  had  stopped  for  our  luggage  to  come 
up,  as  we  saw  a  party  of  Arabs  in  the  distance,  my  rotund  little 


AN  ALARM  FROM  ARABS.  91 

companion  had  an  awful  back  summerset  from  his  camel,  falling 
head  foremost  on  a  hard  gravelly  spot,  luckily  striking  the  front 
instead  of  the  back  of  his  head,  or  he  -would  have  been  instantly 
killed:  and  as  it  is,  he  is  in  very  great  pain,  momentarily 
increased  by  the  oscillating  motion  of  the  body  consequent  on  the 
long  rolling  gait  of  the  camel. 

Hebron,  March  28. — A  few  days  since,  crossed  a  slippery 
mountain,  rising  at  an  angle  of  about  forty -five  degrees.  While 
we  were  slipping  and  sliding,  the  camels,  with  their  soft  spongy 
feet,  clambered  up  with  great  ease. 

Night  before  last  told  Ali,  our  smiling  Syrian  waiter,  to  wake 
me  at  four  for  an  early  start ;  he  asked  for  my  watch,  so  I 
explained  and  marked  the  hour  with  my  pencil.  This  morning 
he  came  in  grinning  as  usual  (fancying  it  the  j  oiliest  fun  in  the 
world  to  rout  us  up  at  midnight),  watch  and  candle  in  hand, 
exclaiming,  "quatre  heure.  Monsieur  Irian d,  quatre  heure." 
Looking  at  the  watch  I  saw  it  was  only  three,  so  sent  him  off 
with  a  threat  to  shoot  him  if  he  dared  show  his  face  again  one 
minute  before  four. 

Yesterday  saw  great  numbers  of  cranes  as  we  reached  the 
green  pastures  and  "flowery  meads,"  which  mark  the  approach 
to  Hebron. 

Had  an  alarm  from  Arabs  ;  a  small  tribe  owning  this  part  of 
the  desert  claim  the  right  of  escorting  us  across  to  Hebron  to  the 
exclusion  of  the  others.  So  each  body  halted,  and  while  the 
leading  dragomen  and  sheiks  were  holding  consultation,  we  were 
getting  our  revolvers,  guns,  and  rifles  ready,  and  our  Arab  escort 
priming  their  guns  and  lighting  the  matches.  Our  Syrian  cooks 
and  waiters  "  waxed  valorous,"  seized  the  iron-pointed  lantern 
stakes,  like  Paddy  and  his  shillelah  at  Donnybrook  Fair,  with  a 
good  "scrimmage"  in  prospective,  and  they  fiercely  flourished  them 
as  if  "  on  deeds  of  valor  bent."  As  my  travelling  companion  was 
an  invalid  and  could  not  fight,  I  tried  to  persuade  him  to  try  his 
latent  musical  genius  (he  could  not  tell  a  jig  from  a  dead  march), 


92  FROM  "WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

and  excite  our  American  ardor  by  whistling  "Yankee  Doodle," 
feeling  sure  his  fellow  invalid,  with  the  gouty  foot,  would  try 
"  God  save  the  Queen"  for  our  "  cousins."  The  most  valorous 
men  of  our  party  were  Otley  (a  very  good  fellow  if  not  troubled 
with  a  crazy  military  mania,  and  we  all  dub  him  the  "  Green- 
brook  Volunteer"),  in  his  conglomeration  of  uniform  (Turkish 
fez  and  turban,  artillery  undress  coat  (blue),  infantry  waistcoat 
(scarlet),  walking  trowsers,  shooting  shoes,  surgeon's  sword, 
revolver  in  his  belt,  Bible  tucked  in  his  waistcoat,  and  cocked 
rifle  in  hand,  reminding  one  of  Cromwell's  injunction  to  his 
troops,  "  trust  in  the  Lord  hut  keep  your  powder  dry,"  and  the 
Irish  traveller's  black  cook,  who,  with  an  apology  for  a  turban 
on  his  woolly  pate,  an  immense  dress  coat,  the  skirts  of  which 
trail  at  his  feet,  and  with  this  a  pair  of  Turkish  bag  trowsers  and 
bare  feet,  probably  for  better  expedition,  on  Hudibras'  prin- 
ciple, "  he  who  fights  and  runs  away,"  etc. 

All  last  night  we  were  kept  awake  by  the  Arabs  holding 
"watch  and  ward"  against  the  tribes  we  had  met  in  the  after- 
noon. All  yesterday  and  to-day  we  have  been  marching  over 
grassy  fields,  studded  with  myriads  of  wild  flowers,  the  country 
undulating,  and  thousands  of  sheep,  in  the  biblical  language  of 
our  western  paragon  (such  people  deal  in  extremes  of  good  and 
bad),  reminding  him  of  "  the  sheep  on  a  thousand  hills." 

As  w^e  came  in  sight  of  Hebron,  the  country  became  more 
rocky.  Saw  about  thirty  teams  of  yearlings  working  with  most 
primitive  ploughs,  though  somewhat  better  than  those  in  Egypt. 
About  two  miles  from  Hebron  the  Quarantine  guards  stopped 
us,  and  tried  to  get  us  in  some  kind  of  compactness,  but 
looked  the  picture  of  despair  at  our  refractory  conduct.  We 
passed  a  large  reservoir,  surrounded  by  idlers — a  gossiping 
"  exchange."  The  people  seemed  very  merry  at  our  approaching 
captivity, — we  laughed  at  them  in  return.  Then  reached  the 
formidable  building  where  we  are  quietl}'  to  rest  until  three  days 
are  over,  and  all  impurities  engendered  by  forty  days  of  camel 
riding  in  the  Desert  have  had  time  to  dissipate.     It  is  likely  to 


Skctcbud  by  the  Author 


JEWS'   PLACE  OF   WAILING.    JERUSALEM. 


See  page  94. 


IN   QUARANTINE.  93 

be  a  horrid  bore,  our  party  so  numerous;  we  were  four,  and 
baggage,  to  a  room  only  twelve  feet  square ;  cold  weather, 
damp  walls,  and  our  only  fire  a  brazier  with  charcoal.  But  I 
kicked  up  such  a  "  row  "  they  gave  me  another  room,  and  the 
other  parties  following  the  example,  our  grievances  are  somewhat 
moderated. 

After  a  furious  uproar  from  unloading  seventy  camels,  groan- 
ing and  bellowing,  with  a  dozen  little  ones  crying  for  their 
"mamas,"  and  fifty  or  sixty  quarrelsome  Arabs  yelling  and 
fighting,  with  our  own  servants  adding  their  "mite"  of  importance 
to  the  general  confusion,  with  the  various  orders  and  directions 
of  Quarantine  officials,  and  ourselves  in  a  medley  of  English, 
French,  German,  Italian,  Turkish,  and  Arabic,  for  the  space  of 
nearly  two  hours,  in  a  small  court  fifty  feet  by  a  hundred,  pro- 
ducinsc  a  most  inconceivable  Babel.  We  were  at  last  rid  of  this 
much  of  our  plagues,  sincerely  hoping  it  to  be  our  last  trial  in 
that  form.  I  think  we  all  breathed  freer  when  the  gates  were 
closed  on  the  last  camel  and  his  driver. 

Thanks  to  our  purchases,  my  compagnon  de  voyage  and  self 
are  decidedly  the  most  comfortable  of  the  party  in  our  new 
quarters,  as  we  were  in  the  desert  in  our  large  tent. 

My  invalid  friend  is  better  to-night,  though  he  groans  fear- 
fully as  our  Western  man's  big  blackey  rubs  him,  occasionally 
having  him  by  the  head,  "  taking  him  to  London  town  to  see 
his  grandfather,"  and  from  his  weight,  he  will  be  in  a  fair  way 
to  stay  and  see  the  rest  of  his  relations  if  he  goes  very  often. 

Hebron,  March  28th. — To-day  been  trying  to  "  drive  away 
dull  care"  by  all  sorts  of  expedients,  reading,  writing,  talking, 
and  walking  up  and  down  our  little  balcon}^  But  we  cannot 
keep  still  five  minutes ;  even  our  surviving  chickens  partake  of 
this  feeling,  and  have  cackled  and  crowed  ever  since  they 
arrived,  though  one  would  suppose  that  they,  at  least,  would  wish 
to  rest  after  their  multitudinous  summersets  in  camel  experience. 

This  afternoon,  got  up  some  target-practice  at  a  wall  about 


94  FEOM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

twenty  feet  from  the  smoking  "boudoir"  of  the  governor,  me- 
dico, and  other  officials,  who  were  preciously  disturbed  by  this 
specimen  of  miniature  platoon  firing  from  our  various  revolvers : 
so  after  a  long  discussion  of  "  pros  and  cons,"  found  we  must 
give  up  this  and  try  some  more  quiet  amusement. 

March  31s^, — Doctor  reported  us  all  well,  and  let  us  out  for  a 
run  in  the  hills  back  of  the  quarantine  like  a  flock  of  sheep. 

Jerusalem,  April  Ist^  1852, — Our  dragomen  were  all  off  at 
daylight  this  morning,  in  a  sort  of  steeple-chase,  for  best  rooms 
at  Jerusalem  for  their  parties. 

We  trotted  around  Hebron  first;  saw  the  clay  from  which 
the  lump  was  taken  to  make  Adam  !  and  the  place  where  Cain 
slew  Abel !  Then  by  the  terabinth  (a  species  of  oak)  tree  of 
Abraham  ! — but  really  where  it  is  supposed  many  of  the  Jews 
were  brought,  after  the  final  destruction  of  Jerusalem  by  Ha- 
drian, and  sold  as  slaves.  The  tree  has  every  appearance  of 
being  old,  is  large,  and  of  great  diameter. 

The  tomb  of  Abraham  is  venerated  by  the  Mussulmen  (as  are 
all  of  our  prophets,  only  they  make  an  inferior  prophet  of  the 
"  Saviour,"  putting  Mohammed  in  his  place),  so  no  Christians 
could  enter  its  sacred  precincts. 

Passed  a  man  with  a  miserable  yearling  bullock  and  donkey 
yoked  together;  and  by  the  valley  of  Eschol,  and  "pools  of 
Solomon,"  and  "  Eachel's  tomb,"  on  to  Bethlehem,  on  the  brow 
of  a  high  hill,  and  Jerusalem,  imposing  in  the  distance,  entering 
by  the  "  Yaffa  gate"  and  "Tower  of  Hippius,"  a  relic  of  its 
pristine  importance. 

Visited  Dr.  Barclay,  who  "hails  from"  Virginia;  he  endea- 
vors to  perform  gratuitous  cure  of  soul  as  well  as  body. 

We  have  been  most  industriously  employed  in  visiting  the 
various  sights.  "Jews'  Place  of  Wailing,"  a  melancholy  spec- 
tacle, "Pool  of  Hezekiah,"  "  Coenaculum,"  "  Tower  of  Hippius," 
"Church    of   the    Holy    Sepulchre,"    which   now  during  the 


THE   SIGHTS   OF  JERUSALEM.  95 

"Easter  fetes  "  is  a  regular  bazaar  of  carved  shells  (witli  crucifix 
or  "Last  Supper")  rosaries,  crosses,  etc.,  for  Christian  or  traveller 
(who  is  supposed  to  be  heathen).     "Tomb  of  Joseph  of  Ari- 
mathea,"  "  Gethsemane,"  "where  Stephen  was  martyred,  "  Mount 
of  Olives,"  hole  in  the  pavement  where  Lazarus  fed  in  front  of 
"Dives'  house."        Tree  on  the  ascent  of  Mount  of   Olives, 
whose  leaves  the  Prodigal  Son  fed  on,  the  husks  being  a  poetical 
licence.     The  "Ecce    Homo"    house    and  arch,    "  Yallejs  of 
ffinmim  and  Jehosaphat,"  "Hill  of  Evil  Counsel,"  where  Solo- 
mon kept  his  Sidonian  wife,  ""Well  of  Job,"  "Pool  of  Siloam," 
"  Tombs  of  James  and  Zazariah  "  and  "  Column  of  Absalom," 
all  in  valley  of  Jehoshaphat.     Saw  the  stone  on  the  corner  of 
the  city  wall,  and  also  the  old  temple  wall,  where  the  Mohamme- 
dans say  Christ  will  sit  at  the  day  of  judgment  over  the  people, 
who  will  be  in  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat.     Near  this,  the  valley 
of  Gehenna,  assigned  as  the  place  of  Tophet,  and  where  the  Jews 
practised  the  rites  of  Baal  and  Moloch — beyond  Aceldama  or 
Field  of  Blood.     Then  the  Golden  Gate,  through  which  Christ 
made  his  triumphant  entry  previous  to  the  "Last  Supper."    The 
"  Lower  Gishon  Pool "  and  "  Tombs  of  the  Kings  "  and  "  Tombs 
of  the  Prophets."     "  Grotto  of  Jeremiah,"  "Tomb  of  Lazarus," 
at   Bethany,    "  Pilate's   House,"    and  the  place  where   "  The 
Saviour"   was    put    the  night    before  his    crucifixion,    when 
he  had  been  arrested. 

April  7th. — To-day  we  returned  from  seeing  the  pilgrims 
bathe  in  the  Jordan.  They  leave  the  city  at  twelve  o'clock 
the  Monday  night  before  Easter  Sunday.  As  we  went  out  of 
the  city  day  before  yesterday,  saw  a  Mohammedan  procession 
going  to  the  "Tomb  of  Moses,"  which  these  "wiseacres"  have 
discovered,  though  the  Bible,  in  its  ignorance,  says  "no  man 
knoweth  where  it  is  to  this  day."  There  were  great  numbers  of 
women  at  the  gates  as  we  came  out,  with  their  white  sheets 
thrown  around  them,  but  so  arranged  as  to  leave  many  a  pretty 
face  visible. 


96  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

The  road  being  as  unsafe  as  in  the  days  of  the  "Good 
Samaritan"  we  employed  an  Arab  sheik.  Camped  on  the  plains 
of  Jericho  ;  visited  the  modern  Jericho.  The  site  of  the  ancient 
city  is  unknown. 

The  camp  scene  was  most  amusing.  The  patches  on  the 
trowsers  of  the  guards  would  put  to  the  blush  the  military 
economy  of  any  nation  in  Europe. 

Yesterday  morning  about  half-past  two,  were  in  the  saddle 
and  off  for  the  Jordan  after  the  pilgrims.  The  sight  was  won- 
derfully picturesque  and  wild ;  thousands  of  Greek  pilgrims  in 
two  bodies,  about  three  and  five  thousand,  witli  their  torches  and 
frantic  singing.  Arab  sheiks  galloping  and  curvetting  their 
steeds,  with  long  spears  quivering,  and  "dirty  picturesque" 
robes ;  the  whole  scene  brilliantly  illuminated  by  the  burning 
plain,  kindled  by  the  pilgrims  in  their  wild  frenzy. 

"We  went  on  ahead,  got  our  "  dip,  "  filled  our  bottles  for  the 
benefit  of  future  progeny,  and  got  a  position,  where  we  saw 
the  first  wild  rush,  and  then  the  carefully  deliberate,  who  put  on 
the  long  white  gown,  like  tlie  Millerite  "  ascension  robes,"  dipped 
three  times,  then  carefully  folded  the  gown,  to  be  kept  till  their 
burial, — a  passport  "  en  regie''''  to  heaven.  Then  rode  to  the  Dead 
Sea,  where  took  a  fine  "  swim."  The  day  was  warm,  and  a  slight 
surf  rolled  lazily  in.  The  specific  gravity  of  the  water  is  so 
great  it  is  almost  impossible  to  keep  your  feet  low  enough  to 
swim.  The  water  possesses  mineral  properties,  painfully  dis- 
agreeable to  eyes,  nose,  and  mouth ;  the  bather's  body  looks,  when 
dried,  as  if  rubbed  witb  oil. 

We  spent  last  night  on  the  plains,  and  returned  to  the  city 
this  morning,  passing  several  pilgrims  who  had  been  wounded 
by  the  Arab  robbers. 

Qth. — This  morning,  Mar-Saba,  a  celebrated  convent,  near  the 
Dead  Sea,  and  the  wilderness  where  Saul  and  David,  in  their 
troubles,  played  "hide  and  go  seek." 

This  afternoon,  the  "  miserere  service,"  in  the  church  of  the 


^k^t<■llpll  by  llic  Aiitlinr. 

liUINS   I'F   Till".    nilT.rif   OF   ST.   JOHN.    DAMASCLT.-^. 


See  paito  9S». 


CALVARY.  97 

"Holy  Sepulclire,"  by  tlie  Latin  patriarch.  But  were  disturbed 
by  noisy  boys,  probably  paid  by  tbe  Greeks,  though  they  deny 
the  imputation.  But  the  animosity  is  so  great,  that  a  few  years 
since,  when  the  Latins  got  a  firman  to  make  repairs  in  the  church 
at  Bethlehem,  the  Greeks  procured  another  to  remove  them. 
They  work  through  the  Eussians ;  the  Latins,  through  the 
French;  and  the  Armenians,  through  " Plutus' "  potent  influence. 

In  the  midst  of  the  ceremony,  some  of  the  Greek  women, 
pilgrims  (who  live  in  the  church  in  a  kind  of  gallerj^,  about  nine 
feet  high,  separating  the  Greek  chapel  from  the  rotunda,  in  which 
stands  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  a  beautiful  white  marble  temple, 
about  twelve  feet  wide,  by  twenty  feet  deep),  were  moving  about, 
some  of  them  drinking  water  out  of  the  sj)out  of  a  large  tea-ket- 
tle, exciting  the  risibles  of  us  all,  since  they  were  also  operating 
directly  over  the  Patriarch's  head. 

In  the  evening,  the  crucifixion  service, — when  we  marched 
from  the  Latin  chapel,  each  with  tapers.  They  have  twelve 
stations:  at  each  a  sermon  is  preached  in  a  different  language; 
the  whole  procession  moves  between  a  double  file  of  Turkish 
soldiers  with  fixed  bayonets  ! 

On  Calvary  (the  church  being  supposed  to  include  Calvary, 
which  is  in  the  gallery),  where  the  body,  a  wax  figure,  borne  by 
the  priests,  from  the  chapel,  is  nailed  to  the  cross,  which  is  then 
erected  (the  Greeks  say  He  was  raised  to  the  cross  and  crucified ; 
the  Latins,  that  the  cross  lay  on  the  ground  when  it  was  done, 
and  then  raised  with  Him  on  it),  the  sermon  preached,  then  the 
nails  knocked  out  and  body  taken  down  from  the  cross.  One 
of  the  most  repulsive  sights  imaginable!  The  body  is  then 
carried  down  stairs,  anointed,  and  buried,  and  at  each  of  these 
stages  another  sermon.  The  lights  of  the  church  are  now  put 
out,  and  not  lit  again  by  the  Latins  until  Easter  Sunday. 

Saturday  is  the  great  day  with  the  Greeks, — by  some  calculation 
they  arrive  at  the  conclusion  that  this,  and  not  the  next  day,  is 
Easter,  when  the  church  is  a  perfect  Babel.  The  Greeks  fill 
every  part,  each  with  a  large  wax  taper  or  a  bunch  of  small  ones. 

7 


08  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

The  "fire  from  Ilcaven,"  to  rc-liglit  the  world,  comes  down  to 
the  "  Iloly  Sepulchre,"  at  precisely  two  o'clock  on  every  year  I 
when  some  priests  who  are  there  for  the  purpose,  receive  it,  and 
from  it  light  the  candles  of  the  crowd.  The  church  was  filled 
about  ten,  w^hen  a  grand  "row  "  and  stabbing  affair  getting  up, 
the  soldiers,  with  fixed  bayonets,  marched  in  and  tried  to  keep 
order.     Then  followed  shouting,  singing,  and  fisticuff"  fights. 

In  two  minutes  after  the  first  candle  was  lit,  the  whole  church 
was  ablaze.  Their  blood  warmed  with  the  excitement,  the  sol- 
diers gone,  and  the  tapers  making  good  clubs,  at  it  they  went 
again,  on  the  principle  of  the  shillelah  practice,  "  hit  every  head 
you  see."  This  afternoon  my  travelling  friend  asked  Ach- 
met  (our  dragoman)  if  he  was  busy :  "  Yes,  sir,  I  am  going  to 
the  mosque  to  say  my  prayers ;  I  have  been  so  busy  since  I  left 
Beirut  I  have  not  had  time!"  Only  six  months,  with  nine 
weeks  of  it  repose  on  the  Nile  ! 

I  have  got  any  quantity  of  crosses  and  rosaries,  blessed  by 
the  Patriarch,  and  been  in  and  on  every  sacred  place : — so  when 
you  get  them,  if  they  don't  "put  you  through  straight"  it  is 
because  you  are  "predestined"  to  go  somewhere  else. 

I  have  visited  repeatedly  all  the  churches,  and  gazed  on  the 
city  from  Mount  Olivet  (where,  by-the-way,  is  a  foot-print  made 
in  a  piece  of  marble  by  the  Saviour  when  he  ascended),  and  the 
Mosque  of  Omar,  conspicuous  on  the  foundations  of  the  old 
temple,  besides  making  a  sketch  of  the  whole  scene.  Now  I 
■am  off"  for  Damascus. 

A2:)ril  IZth. — Nabalus  (Sichem). — Started  yesterday  from 
Jerusalem,  stopping  on  the  way  to  see  the  curiously  historic  church 
of  the  Georgians,  a  short  distance  from  the  walls,  where  they 
were  allowed  to  come  in  full  armor,  with  banners  flying,  until 
about  two  hundred  years  ago.  Passed  by  or  near  Mizpeh,  so 
celebrated  in  biblical  history ;  Anathoth  ;  Gibeah,  of  Benjamin  ; 
Gibeon,  where  "  the  sun  stood  still  and  the  moon  stayed,"  and 
■celebrated  in  the  history  of  David,  Solomon,  etc.     Then  Ramah, 


DAMASCUS.  99 

Miclimash,  Bethel,  and  the  mountains  of  the  "  Blessing  and 
Cursing,"  Gerizim  and  Ebal.  Saw  a  Pentateuch  at  this  place 
said  to  have  come  down  from  Abishua,  the  son  of  Phineas,  3460 
years  old ! 

April  loth. — Nazareth. — Yesterday  stopped  to  see  the  ruins 
of  Sebaste  (Samaria)  and  the  colonnade  built  by  Herod  tiie  Great. 

To-day  been  marching  through  the  plain  of  Esdrelon,  passing 
Mount  Gilboah,  plain  of  Jezreel  and  Little  Hermon,  near  which 
the  "  witch  of  Endor"  dwelt;  Shunem  and  Megiddo,  celebrated 
for  the  miracles,  battles,  or  misdeeds  of  Elisha,  Gideon,  Barak, 
and  Ahab  in  ancient  days ;  and  in  more  modern  ones,  for  those 
of  crusaders  and  French.  At  Nazareth  the  house  and  et  ceteras 
of  Joseph  shown,  besides  other  wonders. 

IQth. — Tiberias. — To-day  ascended  Mount  Tabor,  the  sup- 
posed scene  of  the  "  transfiguration."  "  Cana  of  Galilee  "  is  in 
the  distance,  while  we  took  the  route  to  Tiberias,  passing  over 
"  Tell  Hattin"  that  decided  the  fate  of  the  crusaders  in  Palestine. 
The  city  is  small ;  and  the  lake  about  ten  miles  by  three. 

IQUi. — "  Jacob's  Bridge." — Yesterday  passed  by  Bethsaida, 
the  city  of  Andrew,  Peter,  and  Philip,  and  to-night  encamp  on 
the  borders  of  the  Jordan,  a  narrow  stream  of  a  few  feet,  but 
very  swift. 

Damascus,  April  20. — Arrived  this  morning.  Yesterday  and 
day  before  passing  over  a  Roman  road,  and  near  the  old  Roman 
town  of  Arbana.  We  came  in  at  daylight,  not  an  object  moving 
to  disturb  the  harmony  of  the  scene  ;  even  the  bulbul,  with  whose 
"  matin"  we  commence  our  morning  march,  had  not  left  his  nest. 

21st  and  22d. — Seen  all  our  missionaries, — several  from  my 
own  state.  They  showed  us  the  street  called  Straight,"  "  House 
of  Ananias,"  and  the  fine  ruins  of  the  ancient  Christian  church, 
now  built  around  by  Turkish  houses,  on  the  top  of  which  I  went 
to  sketch  them. 


100  FROM   WALL   STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

23c?,  Baalbec. — Yesterday  passed  tlie  Eoman  town  of  Arbela, 
and  the  tablets  of  Marcus  Aurelius  Antoninus  wliich  are  still 
legible.  This  afternoon  have  been  exploring  and  sketching 
these  wonderful  and  beautiful  ruins.  Many  of  the  stones  in  the 
walls  arc  sixty  feet  long  by  twelve  feet  square,  actual  measure- 
ment. 

Beiri^t,  April  25. — The  delectable  western  part  of  our 
party,  or  rather  the  well  one,  has  a  passion  for  electric  speed,  and 
"  doing  a  place"  ("  par  exemple,"  seeing  Eome  in  two  days)  ;  for 
his  protege  cares  for  no  body  or  thing  but  the  black  servant  and 
donkeys;  "birds  of  a  feather,"  etc.  We  find  Drs.  Smith,  and 
Robinson,  whose  book  has  been  our  perpetual  "  vade  mecum" 
since  leaving  Beiriit,  nearly  seven  months  ago,  have  gone  to 
Jerusalem  to  prosecute  further  researches. 

Mmj  15,  Marseilles. — Steamed  via  Alexandria  and  Malta  to 
this  place.  We  did  not  go  ashore, — merely  saw  St.  Elmo  from 
the  ship. 

19^A. — This  morning  Rochefaveur,  the  magnificent  aqueduct. 
It  connects  two  spurs  of  a  mountain,  is  1250  feet  long  by  262 
high,  in  three  tiers  of  arches. 

Perpignan,  May  22. — Stopping  to  see  the  beautiful  Roman 
ruins  at  Nismes  (maison  de  carree,  baths,  and  amphitheatre), 
Montpelier,  and  Bergi^res,  celebrated  for  the  massacres  of  the 
Albigenses  in  1209. 

Barcelona,  24i/t. — Crossed  the  Pyrenees  through  magnificent 
scenery,  and  via  Gerona  to  this  place,  and  had  our  first  expe- 
rience in  Spanish  diligence,  with  nine  and  ten  horses  in  pairs,  no 
lines  to  any  but  the  leaders,  stopping  them  by  pulling,  like 
"hauling  in"  a  ship's  cable.  Very  often  on  the  leader  a  pos- 
tillion, a  little  imp  with  turban,  blouse,  legs  and  arms  flying  like 
a  "dancing  jack,"  while  the  driver  and  assistant  in  dark  velve- 


l._< .'_:  ^__:.    ^.^ -^-r— r~         -T*  i I 


Sketclied  by  tlic  Autlior. 


RUINS    OF   BAALBEC 


See  page  100. 


RAMBLE  THPOUGH   SPAIN.  101 

teens,  resplendent  witli  bright  buttons,  were  whooping,  shouting, 
cutting  and  slashing,  the  diligence  creaking  and  groaning  as  it 
bounded  from  stone  to  stone,  while  we  were  tossed  about  the 
coupe,  blinded  and  choked  with  dust,  wishing  our  lives  insured, 
or  ourselves  somewhere  else.  This  place  is  celebrated  for  its  fine 
fortress  and  large  opera  house.  To-morrow  by  sea  down  the 
coast. 

2Qth. — Valencia  a  bright,  curious  place.  Saw  the  house  of 
"The  Cid,"  and  roofs  covered  with  "azulejos"  (colored  tile). 
Continue  on  bj  sea  this  afternoon. 

28^/i,  Malaga. — The  town  very  ancient,  with  Moorish  remains. 
Saw  numbers  of  pretty  "blondes"  walking  in  the  "Alameda" 
this  afternoon. 

May  31. — Granada  by  saddle,  via  Velez,  Malaga,  and  Alhama. 
Visited  all  the  wonders  of  this  lovely  place,  a  Moorish  paradise, 
its  court  of  lions  and  other  beauties,  the  exquisite  tombs  of 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 

Gibraltar,  June  6th. — Via  Loja,  Campillos,  and  Ronda, 
riding  over  plains  and  wild  mountain  routes.  Visited  the  fortress. 

June  lOih,  Cadiz. — Came  by  steamer.  To-day,  saw  the  Cor- 
pus Christi  services ;  and  a  miniature  bull  fight. 

12th,  Seville. — ^Yesterday  on  here,  via  the  famed  Guadal- 
quiver,  like  the  Nile,  except  very  winding.  There  are  many 
curious  remains  of  the  Moors.  Alcazar  and  private  houses  with 
quadrangles  or  patios,  as  at  Damascus.  The  cathedral  is  magni- 
ficent. The  Murillos  very  numerous  and  fine.  The  treasury  of 
the  church  immensely  valuable  in  plate  and  jewelry  ;  by  good 
luck  I  was  allowed  to  see  and  handle  it  all. 

17ih,    Cordova. — Last  night  started   for  Madrid    by  post. 


102  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASUMERE. 

Stopped  here  to-day  to  sec  the  wonderful  Cathedral  with  its 
854  pillars.  It  lias  been  very  prolific  in  great  men,  and  was 
the  Moorish  Athens  in  its  "  palmy  days." 

June  19th,  Madrid. — This  morning  reached  this,  via  La 
Mancha,  celebrated  in  Don  Quixote,  and  Aranjuez,  the  royal 
country  scat. 

June  2olh. — Visited  the  beautiful  gallery,  one  of  the  finest  in 
Europe.  Seen  Murillo's  celebrated  Santa  Isabel,  of  Hungary, 
applying  Eemedies  to  the  Diseased,  ranking  with  Eaphael's 
Transfiguration.  The  Palace,  celebrated  for  its  charming  situa- 
tion. Prado. — Bull  fights,  disgusting  spectacles.  Chiclanaro 
(nephew  of  the  celebrated  Montes)  was  there  to  display  his  skill. 

Toledo  and  its  famed  Cathedral. 

June  27th,  Segovia. — Stopping  at  the  Escurial  and  La 
Granja.  The  Escurial,  immense  in  size,  devoid  of  beauty  or 
attraction,  except  historical.  La  Grranja,  pretty  and  wild;  the 
fountains  in  the  royal  grounds,  very  fine.  Here,  a  Fair  day. 
The  Roman  aqueduct  is  grand.  The  Alcazar,  a  Moorish  relic,  is 
curious.  Now,  a  Military  College.  Gipsies  were  in  numbers  at 
the  Fair,  the  women  in  red  or  yellow  flannel  skirts. 

July  1st,  Burgos. — Making  a  detour,  visited  Valladolid,  nearly 
ruined  by  the  French  ;  has  a  few  interesting  remains.  This 
place  is  celebrated  for  the  repulse  of  the  "  Duke ;"  its  fine  cathe- 
dral; sundry  minor  churches;  and  wonderful  tomb  of  the 
father  (Juan  II.),  mother,  and  brother  of  Isabella,  much  injured 
by  the  French  soldiers. 

Juli/  bih,  Bayonne. — ^Yia  the  Basque  Provinces,  through 
beautiful  scenery.  This  is  the  frontier  town  of  France,  on  the 
west,  as  Perpignan  is  on  the  east. 

July  10th,  Bordeaux. — Visited  Pau,  beautifully  picturesque. 


RETURN  TO   PARIS.  103 

Celebrated  as  the  birth-place  of  Henry  of  Navarre,  and  Berna- 
dotte,  each  of  whom  changed  his  religion  for  a  crown.  This  is 
a  pretty,  well-built  place,  with  a  fine  stone  bridge  across  the 
river.     In  the  days  of  the  Black  Prince,  noted  for  wars. 

July  llth^  Nantes. — Saw,  en  route,  La  Eochelle,  the  former 
great  stronghold  of  the  Protestants.  This  is  a  pretty  and  impor- 
tant place,  with  a  wide-spread  celebrity.  The  important  "  Edict 
of  Nantes  "  was  signed  here. 


*o" 


July  12ih,  Saumur. — ^Where  Lord  Chatham  and  tlic  Dake  of 
"Wellington  received  part  of  their  education  at  the  French 
MiHtary  School.  Stopping,  en  route  to  this,  at  "  Black  Angler,'^ 
a  strons  lookino;  town  for  feudal  times. 


"o 


July  14:th. — Orleans,  via  Tours,  a  pretty  place,  much  resorted 
to  by  the  English;  Amboise  and  Blois,  both  historically  cele- 
brated. This  place  is  celebrated  for  the  siege  and  Maid  of  Or- 
leans in  English  and  French  wars,  and  its  cathedral. 

15^/i. — Chartres  ;  its  fine  cathedral, — one  of  the  finest  in 
France,  and  scene  of  the  several  coronations. 

July  17th. — Eeturned  to  Paris  yesterday  after  a  continued 
wander  of  thirteen  months,  and  right  glad  to  stop  and  breathe 
once  more.  My  tour  through  Spain  and  France  was  delightful, 
especially  through  the  latter,  the  former  being  only  demi-civilized, 
as  far  as  the  ordinary  comforts  of  a  traveller  are  cared  for :  bad 
roads,  bad  conveyances,  with  minimum  security  for  life  or  mo- 
ney when  travelling,  though  I  roughed  it  safely  through  the 
most  interesting  parts  in  my  "cross  cuts"  and  circuit.  In 
France,  through  districts  of  the  most  historic  interest  in  the  wars 
with  the  Saracens,  English,  Albigenses,  and  Huguenots.  Now 
a  breath  of  English  air,  and off  direct  for  Cashmere 

July  2dth. — Paris,  have  been  to  London, — everybody  out  of 


104  FROM  AVALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

town,  and  all  is  excitement  about  the  election.     Paris  all  quiet, 
the  Prince  President  apparently  popular.     So,  adieu. 

August  4ili. — Geneva. — Have  been  here  several  days.  Last 
evening  was  introduced  to  an  antique  celebrity  who  had  a  great 
admiration  for  America,  said  he  knew  all  about  the  thirteen 
States !  I  could  have  told  him  we  had  inverted  the  numbers, 
and  the  eagle  still  on  his  wing  was  extending  the  circuit.  The 
Sunday  amusements  here  show  Calvin's  star  is  waning. 

August  6(Ii. — Berne,  via  the  lake  to  Lausanne  and  "  Chillon's 
walls,"  and  a  glimpse  at  lovely  Thurn.  Met  two  men, — one  I 
had  parted  from  in  Norway,  the  other  at  Jerusalem.  Stopped  a 
day  for  a  hasty  view  of  the  sights.  The  more  important,  the 
Bernese  Alps,  magnificent  in  the  bright  sun  ;  and  Berchtold's 
(founder  of  Berne)  tomb. 

August  lOih. — Lucerne,  usually  the  stopping-place  for  visit- 
ing the  Rigi.  Took  a  sail  down  the  lake,  as  it  was  just  clearing 
up  after  a  long  storm.  Saw  hundreds  of  cascades  and  fifteen  rain- 
bows, six  of  them  double;  "Tell's"  Chapel;  Thorwaldsen's 
Lion  ;  and  on  the  bridge  the  series  of  paintings  called  "  Dance 
of  Death." 

August  11th. — Zurich. — Lake  Zug,  and  field  where  Zwingli 
was  killed ;  and  battle-fields  of  the  French,  under  Massena,  and 
the  Russians.  The  first  entire  English  version  of  the  Bible  was 
printed  here  in  1535. 

August  12th. — CoN'stance. — A  pleasant  journey  ;  passed  the 
castle  from  which  the  Hapsburg  family  (Austrian  sovereigns) 
originally  came.  The  Grand  Council  of  Constance,  held  here 
in  1414  and  '18,  was  attended  by  ecclesiastics  from  all  parts  of 
Europe,  prince-cardinals  (30),  patriarchs  (4),  archbishops  (20), 
bishops  (150),  professors  of  universities  and  doctors  of  theology 


AUGSBURG  AND  MUNICH.  lOo 

(200),  besides  a  host  of  inferior  prelates,  abbtos,  priors,  etc.,  con- 
vened for  the  purpose  of  reforming  abuses  in  the  church.  Their 
proceedings  were  prefaced  by  a  declaration  that  the  council  had 
received  by  "  divine  right"  a  superlative  power  in  church  mat- 
ters, and  began  by  deposing  John  XXIIL  and  Benedict  XIII., 
and  electing  in  their  place  Martin  Y.  Then  the  treacherous 
seizure  and  murder  of  John  Huss  and  Jerome  of  Prague,  in 
spite  of  the  safe-conduct  granted  him  by  the  Emperor  Sigis- 
mund,  President  of  the  Council. 

The  mother  of  Louis  Napoleon  lived  near  this  lake.  In  the 
shops  pictures  of  Huss  being  led  to  execution.  The  officers 
look  like  dancing-masters  and  assistants  trying  to  "step  off" 
with  an  awkward  scholar  in  his  first  polka  lesson  ! 

August  13. — To  Augsburg,  by  steamer  and  "  rail."  The  seat  of 
many  diets.  In  one,  toleration  to  the  Protestants  of  Germany 
granted.  Here,  in  1530,  the  celebrated  declaration  called,  "  The 
Confession  of  Augsburg,"  was  presented  by  Bayer,  the  Chancellor 
of  Saxony,  to  Charles  Fifth,  and  loudly  read  to  him  in  German 
(that  the  people  might  understand),  though  Charles  ordered  him 
to  read  it  in  Latin.  Formerly  one  of  the  most  important  money 
markets  and  commercial  towns  of  Europe.  Earlier  an  important 
Roman  town.     Saw  women  mowing  grain  in  a  rain  storm. 

August  17,  Munich. — ^Visited  the  studios  of  several  celebrated 
painters  and  sculptors.  The  jjalace  and  its  curiosities.  In  one 
room  the  portraits  of  the  most  beautiful  women  in  Bavaria. 
Many  modern  paintings  in  fresco  and  oil.  The  "  Rich  Chapel," 
so  called  from  its  valuables.  The  galleries,  public  and  private, 
are  fine.  The  library  collection  of  books  large  and  valuable. 
The  city  a  mass  of  imitations,  ancient  and  modern.  The  Statue 
of  Bavaria,  a  splendid  figure  in  bronze,  sixty-four  feet  high. 
Crawford's  bronzes  for  the  statue  at  Richmond,  Virginia,  are  to 
be  cast  here. 

August  18,   NuREMBURG. — Lies  in   an   extensive  plain,  the 


106  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

former  moat,  now  a  vegetable  garden.  In  the  time  of  the 
"  Thirty  Years'  War"  endured  a  memorable  siege  sustained  by 
Gustavus  Adolphus  against  "Wallenstein.  The  place  was  once 
much  celebrated  for  its  commerce  and  manufactures.  Much 
injured  by  the  expulsion  of  the  Jews.  Has  fine  churches  and 
curious  houses,  with  more  tiers  of  windows  in  the  roof  than  in 
the  front  of  the  house. 

AiLgust  19,  Leipsic. — A  dull  place ;  celebrated  for  its  Uni- 
versity, and  the  battle  between  Napoleon  and  the  Allies,  in 
which  Poniatowski  was  drowned, 

August  20,  Dresden. — Arrived  yesterday.  Its  celebrated 
gallery  contains  many  of  the  finest  works  of  the  best  artists, 
particularly  of  Raphael,  Correggio,  Eubens,  Vandyke,  etc.  Also 
an  admirable  collection  of  ancient  arms  and  armor ;  then  the 
"  Green  Vault"  or  treasury — the  finest  collections  of  valuables 
of  any  palace  in  Europe — one  case  alone  worth  $5,000,000.  Met 
Gen.  Santa  Cruz  here ;  the  "  valets  de  place,"  had  the  report 
spread  that  he  was  the  President  of  the  United  States. 

August  21,  Prague. — Came  on  last  night.  Well  known  as 
the  scene  of  wars  and  sieges.  Religious,  "  Thirty  Years'  War," 
and  others.  A  fine  library,  rich  in  Bohemian  literature.  In 
one  of  the  churches  veritable  relics  of  Abraham,  Isaac,  and 
Jacob, — a  bit  of  the  sponge  wet  with  hyssop,  part  of  crown  of 
thorns,  true  cross,  etc.,  etc.  There  is  a  very  curious  synagogue 
here,  very  old;  and  a  burial-ground  said  to  be  one  thousand 
years  old — it  looks  so.  The  private  residences  in  the  suburbs  are 
beautiful.  Wallenstein  lived  here  in  grand  style.  The  Uni- 
versity, at  one  time  very  famous ;  it  had  twenty-five  thousand  stu- 
dents ;  by  an  unfortunate  measure,  abridging  the  privileges  of 
foreigners,  they  were  soon  scattered  over  Europe. 

August  28,  Berlin". — Got  here  six  days  ago,  stopping  one  day 


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VIENNA.  107 

at  Dresden,  The  city  is  very  regular,  and  mucli  like  New  York 
or  Philadelphia.  The  galleries  of  all  kinds  (pictures,  antiquities, 
and  coins)  are  interesting.  A  handsome  monument  in  bronze 
of  Frederick  the  Great,  with  his  marshals  in  the  "  Unter  Linden 
Linden,"  the  street  of  Berlin.  Its  porcelain  manufactory  is 
known  throughout  the  world. 

Met  some  English  friends  who  were  in  the  East  last  winter. 
Visited  Potsdam,  the  Prussian  Versailles,  where  are  various 
palaces,  "Sans  Souci,"  old  palace,  new  palace,  and  others;  besides 
many  residences  of  the  nobility.  In  the  gardens  of  one  of  the 
palaces  saw  one  of  the  loftiest  jets  of  water  in  the  world.  Some  of 
the  garden  beds  are  bordered  with  pumpkin  vines.  Here  stands 
the  palace  built  by  "  Frederick  the  Great"  after  the  "  Seven  Years' 
War,"  to  show  Maria  Theresa  he  had  plenty  of  money  left  to 
carry  on  another  if  she  wished.  His  tomb,  and  those  of  his 
horses  and  great  dogs,  are  in  the  grounds  of  the  palace. 

August  80,  Vienna. — Via  Breslau,  the  birth-place  of  Blucher. 
All  last  night  were  entertained  by  the  discordant  music  of  a 
drove  of  hogs  in  the  rear  car,  who  were  being  taken  to  market. 
The  city  proper  is  small,  inclosed  by  walls,  but  the  suburbs  very 
extensive,  streets  narrow  and  winding.  Found  many  acquaint- 
ances. The  gardens  are  full  of  people  every  evening  listening  to 
the  music,  and  drinking  beer.  One  of  the  churches  has  a  beautiful 
marble  monument  to  Christina,  daughter  of  Maria  Theresa.  One 
of  the  chapels  of  another  church  contains  the  hearts  of  forty-three 
Emperors  in  silver  urns  ranged  around  the  walls.  We  saw  in 
the  vault  of  the  Convent  of  the  Capucins,  the  coffins  of  the 
Emperors  for  the  last  two  hundred  years.  Many  very  beautiful, 
several  of  solid  silver.  Among  them  the  sarcophagus  of  the 
Duke  of  Reichstadt,  near  that  of  his  grandfather,  who  was  very 
fond  of  him.  Then  the  cabinet  of  medals  and  coins,  134,000 ! 
One  of  silver  weighing  six  pounds !  Then  the  picture  galleries, 
private  and  public ;  the  former  are  very  extensive  and  good,  the 
latter  remarkably  fine,  especially  in  Rubens'  works.     The  armory 


108  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

has  a  good  collection.  I  have  met  several  English  acquaint- 
ances here,  who  have  introducd  me  to  English  officers  in  the  Aus- 
trian army. 

September  12,  LiNTZ. — Arrived  here  at  daylight  this  morning. 
A  snug  little  place  ;  for  miles  around  the  town  there  are  towers, 
a  new  defence,  an  invention  of  one  of  the  Archdukes,  to  guard 
Vienna,  this  being  one  of  her  approaches.  This  place  was  a 
Roman  naval  station. 

September  13,  VIENNA. — To-day  returned  here.  The  sail  down 
the  river  grand  and  picturesque.  On  inaccessible  crags,  old 
castles,  many  celebrated  as  notorious  robber  holds.  Drove  out  to 
"Schtinbrunn,"  the  principal  residence  of  the  Emperor;  and 
where  Napoleon  signed  the  Treaty  of  Schonbrunn. 

September  15,  Baden. — A  pleasant  country  resort  near  Vienna. 
To-morrow  I  shall  start  for  Pesth,  after  more  than  two  weeks 
here  very  delightfully. 

September  17,  Pesth. — Coming  down  the  Danube  passed  the 
small  island  of  Lobau,  where  Napoleon  was  obhged  to  retire  after 
the  fields  of  Aspern  and  Essling,  and  was  cooped  up  about  two 
months  with  150,000  foot,  30,000  horse,  with  700  cannon.  By 
a  skilful  manoeuvre  threw  hunself  to  the  mainland  over  a  bridge 
and  then  behind  his  opponent,  the  Archduke  Charles.  Then 
came  the  battle  of  TVagram.  On  one  side  of  the  river  is  Pesth, 
on  the  other  on  high  hills  are  Buda  and  Presburg,  separated  by 
a  deep  valley. 

September  18,  Pesth. — This  morning  went  to  see  the  review 
and  manoeuvres  of  over  eighty  thousand  men  by  the  Emperor,  A 
rather  good-natured  looking  young  man,  quite  thin.  This  after- 
noon a  gentleman  passed  my  door  in  the  full  Magyar  costume, 
which  is  very  striking.     Coming  down  the  Danube  passed  Gran, 


DOWN  THE  DANUBE.  109 

the  scat  of  the  See  of  the  Primate  of  all  Hungary.  The  revenue 
the  richest  of  any  Primate  in  Europe,  $350,000.  Passed  Comorn, 
called  the  maiden  fortress  because  never  captured. 

Sept.  2\st. — Danube  Steamer. — This  morning  started  again 
on  my  voyage  down  the  river,  with  one  of  the  best  cabins  on 
deck ;  an  English  friend  not  joining  me,  offered  to  share  it  with 
a  very  nice  Englishman  I  met  on  board,  who  had  the  bad  luck 
to  be  in  the  general  cabin, — an  awful  suffocating  hole.  Passed 
the  various  towns  so  often  the  scene  of  contention  between 
Turks  and  Christians;  the  castle  of  John  Hunyady,  the  cham- 
pion of  Christendom  against  the  Turks  in  the  fifteenth  century  ; 
then  Belgrade,  so  long  the  alternate  bulwark  of  Christendom 
and  the  advanced  post  of  Moslem  power. 

Sept.  lid. — Gladora,  which  brought  us  to  the  "  rapids," 
the  scenery  wild  and  grand ;  then  the  remains  of  the  old  Eoman 
road,  part  an  excavation  from  the  steep  mountain  sides,  the 
balance  by  holes  or  sockets  in  the  rocks  for  beams ;  saw  the 
large  tablet  cut  in  the  rock  and  called  "  Trajan's  Tafel ;  now  the 
rapids,  and  foaming,  chafing  waters  of  the  "  Iron  Gate."  From 
Orsova,  to  a  place  beyond,  descended  in  barges.  This  evening  a 
grand  concert  by  the  Italian  opera  company  on  board.  Among 
the  passengers  a  lovely  Polish  countess,  whom  Louis  Napoleon 
in  presenting  to  the  Princess  Mathilde,  said,  "  Allow  me  to  pre- 
sent the  most  beautiful  woman  in  Paris."  Besides  an  Arme- 
nian, the  wealthiest  man  in  Turkey,  just  returning  with  a  son 
and  pretty  daughter ;  has  six  sons  being  educated  in  England, 
and  the  same  number  in  Paris. 

Sept.  2bth. — Galatz. — ^Last  night  were  near  having  an  awful 
accident.  A  Greek  freight  vessel  ran  into  us  intentionally,  carry- 
ing away  half  of  the  saloon ;  luckily  no  lives  lost  or  personal 
injury  done. 

Sept.   26th. — Black  Sea.— Saw  the  Eussian  out-posts  and 


110  FROil   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

guards  as  wc  came  down  the  Danube.  Passed  near  Ismail, 
wliicli  Suwarrow  carried  by  storm,  in  1789,  with  a  frightful 
massacre — 

"  There  Avas  an  end  of  Ismail,  hapless  town ! 

Far  flashed  her  burning  towers  o'er  Danube's  stream, 
And  redder  ran  her  blushing  waters  down." 

The  mouths  of  the  Danube,  passing  through  an  extensive  marsh, 
empty  into  the  Black  Sea.  This  bar  is  difficult  to  cross  except 
in  pleasant  weather.  "We  have  two  gentlemen  (Belgian  and 
Prussian) ;  they  have  been  in  the  Carpathian  Mountains  shoot- 
ing. Saw  two  kinds  of  Gypsies  :  one  dark ;  the  other  light,  with 
flaxen  frizzly  hair ;  and  a  curious  bird,  much  like  the  ostrich. 
Stopped  at  Varna  for  a  few  hours, — a  dazzling  whitewashed 
town. 

Sept.  28ih. — Constantinople. — At  daylight  the  entrance  to 
the  Bospliorus  came  in  sight,  with  all  its  splendors  successively 
revealing  themselves  ;  described  in  my  journal  of  last  year.  Put 
up  at  Misserie's  hotel.  My  old  friend,  the  first  dragoman  of  our 
legation,  has  invited  me  to  join  a  shooting-party  for  an  island 
near  the  Dardanelles.  We  are  to  go  down  this  afternoon.  There 
are  twenty  sportsmen,  with  more  than  thirty  dogs,  sleeping, 
eating,  howling,  or  barking,  w^hile  others  are  being  hauled  on 
board  by  their  masters.  All  fairly  being  on  board  the  roll  was 
called  to  detect  any  interlopers.  After  we  had  been  mustered 
and  found  right  then  came  the  servants :  Signer  Spezziosa's 
domesiique ;  Monsieur  (Somebodyelse's)  domesiique ;  then  a  lot 
of  turbaned,  petticoated  Alis,  Mustaphas,  Alexanders,  and  De- 
metriuses.  Then  a  general  hunt  for  Senor  Brown's  Matthias,  a 
big  Hungarian  refugee,  whose  place  had  been  supplied  by  a 
Greek,  whose  name  neither  Mr.  Brown  nor  any  one  else  knew  ; 
he  sat,  quietly  enjoying  the  fun,  while  we  were  racing  around 
the  deck  in  search  of  him.  Senor  Brown's  domesiique  was  voci- 
ferated in  French,   Greek,   Turkish,  Italian,   and  German,  by 


iSketcIied  by  the  Aiulior. 


DINNEE  WITH    A    BET. 


See  page  113. 


A  MEDLEY  PARTY.  Ill 

thirty  pairs  of  lungs.  A  turbaned,  moustached  blackcy,  with 
Tuskaras  and  bill-of-health  in  his  pocket,  sword  by  his  side,  and 
colored  dignity  enveloped  in  huge  capote,  strides  the  deck  with 
an  awful  dignity  as  he  casts  a  watchful  eye  over  his  noisy 
bjects. 

Sept.  SOlh. — This  morning  we  were  all  up  a  long  time  before 
sunrise  and  stowed  away  in  a  tottering  domicil.  This  evening 
returned  fagged  out,  men  and  dogs,  with  heat  and  miles  of 
tramping.  I  have  never  eaten  such  grapes  as  to-day  we  have 
been  walking  by.  We  have  a  medley  party.  The  director  of 
the  Poste  Fran9ais  and  his  head  clerk,   a  distinguished  Italian 

artist,  a  Greek  merchant,  Mr.  B ,  and  I.     We  have  had 

quite  "  a  spread,"  red  mullet,  etc. ;  our  drinking  apparatus  two 
tumblers,  a  cocoa-nut  cup,  an  India-rubber  one,  and  another  of 
leather,  with  silver,  pewter,  and  wooden  spoons,  each  man  car- 
rying this  pocket-knife ! — ^but  with  good  humor,  appetite,  and 
stories  of  our  exploits,  sung, 

"  Fill  liigh  the  bowl  with  Samian  (or  some  other)  wine ! 
We  will  not  think  of  themes  like  these !" 

and  had  a  right  jolly  ^na/e  to  the  day. 

Friday^  Octoher  1st — After  a  beggarly  night,  with  hosts  of 
most  unwelcome,  but  persevering,  visitors  (fleas),  in  a  room, 
already  sufficiently  tenanted  by  six  gentlemen^  five  servants,  and 
seven  dogs  !  made  a  quick  toilet  and  breakfast,  then  oft'.  An- 
other splendid  "  spread  "  on  our  return  in  the  evening;  and  now 
aboard,  going  back  to  the  city,  with  five  hundred  and  odd 
partridges !  and  no  end  of  amusing  incidents  and  experiences. 
One  verdant  youth  had  been  cajoled  out  of  his  gun  by  a  "  honey- 
mouthed" robber.  Another,  from  bad  shooting,  was  deserted 
by  his  disgusted  dog,  who  sought  a  more  successful  master. 
Our  colored  "  Guardiano "  lies  below,  suffering  and  groaning 
from  too  jovial  companionship  with   Ceres  and  Bacchus.     So 


112  FKOM   WALL   STllEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

hon   null,    and   I  will  resign  myself  to  a  wooden    bencli   and 
"  Somnus." 

October  2nd,  Constantinople. — This  morning  arrived ;  state 
of  our  healths  inquired  into  by  the  attentive  Quarantine  official, 
and  off  for  home,  forming  an  escort  for  our  dogs,  who  could  but 
just  move,  much  less  defend  themselves  against  the  hosts  of 
"Pariahs"  that  came  to  attack  them  (the  city  is  regularly  divided 
into  districts  by  the  dogs  themselves,  and  "  woe-betide"  any  dog, 
public  or  private,  who  crosses  the  boundary,  unless  well  pro- 
tected). Saw  some  fresh  American  papers,  filled  with  Presiden- 
tial campaign  and  steamboat  accidents. 

October  bill. — Yesterday,  a  grand  change  of  ministers  in  the 
Sultan's  cabinet ;  hordes  of  visitors  coming  and  going  ;  all  sorts 
of  odd  lists  of  news  "  gratis  "  from  the  lots  of  "  Queen's  Messen- 
gers," who  daily  come  from  and  go  in  every  direction,  spiced 
with  happy  experiences  of  verdant  travellers. 

October  12th. — To-day,  I  have  arranged  with  an  English  friend, 
for  "  a  run  "  to  Troy  and  the  "  Seven  Churches,"  a  foolhardy  thing 
I  suppose,  as  the  country  is  swarming  with  banditti ;  but  curio- 
sity will  lead  people  to  be  stupidly  venturesome  at  times.  A 
Mr.  Abbott  Lawrence,  nephew  of  the  Minister  to  England,  and 
wife,  with  a  Mrs.  Tailor,  a  relative,  arrived  two  or  three  days 
ago ;  so  gossip  is  busy  with  the  report  that  our  Minister  from 
England,  and  the  wife  of  General  Taylor,  are  here. 

October  ISth,  Kenkoi. — Came  down  the  Dardanelles  last  even- 
ing, and  ashore  this  morning,  booted  and  spurred,  with  our 
scanty  wardrobe  in  the  saddle-bags,  just  in  time  to  catch  the 
Vice-Consul  at  breakfast. 

October  16ih,  Assos. — Yesterday  and  day  before,  over  much 
the  same  ground,  on  the  "  Plains  of  Troy,  "  as  last  year.     This 


A   DINNER  WITH  A  BEY.  113 

place  is  an  old  Roman  town ;   our  quarters  a  quarantine,  tlie 
ceiling  nearly  five  feet  high  !  and  both  of  us  tall  men. 

October  IQth,  Kemaik. — Yesterday,  rode  by  the  sea-shore  all 
day  ;  at  night,  lodged  in  a  quarantine  as  usual.  I  expect,  as  we 
are  so  often  put  in  sick  quarters,  we  shall  soon  become  hypo- 
chondriac and  fancy  we  really  are  ill.  Reached  Adrymetum  at 
two,  where  we  took  a  pipe  with  the  substitute  of  the  Bey,  who 
was  on  a  visit  to  the  one  at  this  place.  Then  were  honored  with 
a  guard  to  escort  us  here,  where  we  found  the  Bey  "  holding 
court."  He  gave  us  pipes,  coffee,  and  an  invitation  to  dinner,  all 
of  which  we  accepted.  Then  led  us  up  to  his  reception  room. 
Soon  some  blackies  spread  a  "  crum  cloth  "  in  one  comer.  Then 
turning  a  four  legged  bench  upside  down,  laid  on  it  a  large 
waiter,  covering  it  with  a  table  cloth,  then  "  counting  noses," 
placed  around  the  sides,  alternate  pieces  of  bread,  and  clusters  of 
grapes  (one  of  each  to  every  one).  They  stretched  around  the 
table  in  festoon  manner,  a  long  scarf  as  a  "  family  napkin." 

The  servants  brought  basins,  and  pitchers  of  water,  one  hold- 
ing it  while  the  other  poured  water  on  our  hands,  which  ran  off 
into  the  concave  perforated  cover  of  the  basin,  then  taking  a 
napkin  from  his  shoulder,  on  which  there  was  a  number  corre- 
sponding to  the  guests.  While  this  was  going  on,  my  fellow- 
traveller,  who  understood  a  little  Turkish,  heard  one  of  the  party, 
who  thought  we  were  "  green  uns,"  ask  the  Bey  if  he  had  not 
some  forks  for  us,  to  which  he  replied,  he  thought  there  was  not 
one  in  the  house,  but  would  see  ;  but  sent  a  servant,  who  brought 
two  old  ones. 

We  sat  down  round  this  novel  table,  and  the  two  Beys  and 
their  suites  (six  or  seven  in  all)  too  in  compliment  to  us.  The 
Beys  "led  off"  by  dipping  their  spoons  into  a  large  tureen  of 
soup,  and  we  all  "  followed  suite  "  for  three  or  four  rounds,  when 
the  last  spoon  was  laid  on  the  waiter ;  the  soup  was  removed 
and  a  large  dish  of  stewed  meat,  cut  into  small  pieces,  took  its 
place.     I  had  had  "  the  cue  "  from  my  friend,  who  had  often 

8 


114  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

"  put  up  "  with  Beys  and  Pachas,  never  .to  use  my  left  hand  on 
any  occasion.  So  "  following  leader,"  I  dipped  in  my  fingers 
and  bit  of  bread,  (a  piece  about  an  inch  and  a  half  square,  held 
between  the  first  and  second  fingers,  at  their  ends,)  and  seized 
all  I  could  with  my  thumb  and  the  bread ;  it  is  then  tucked 
down  the  throat  without  the  delay  of  mastication,  but  with  some 
risk  of  choking  a  beginner.  After  the  meat  succeeded  three 
dishes  with  different  kinds  of  vegetables,  from  which  we  all  ate, 
between  times,  eating  grapes  together  with  pickles,  and  such  like, 
from  small  side  dishes ;  then  came  boiled  rice  and  sugared  milk, 
when  the  spoons  (without  washing)  were  brought  in  requisition 
again.  This  was  followed  by  a  large  dish  of  jelly,  like  poor  calf 's- 
foot  jelly ;  then  three  or  four  courses  of  stewed  meats  and  vege- 
tables ;  after  these,  a  large  plate  wdth  a  kind  of  mince-meat  pie ; 
the  finishing  course,  a  grand  pillaf  (dish  of  rice  and  meat  prepared 
in  a  peculiar  way),  then  rose  from  table,  and  resumed  our  dou- 
bled up  seats  on  the  divan  (which  was  not  particularly  comfort- 
able with  our  long  riding  boots  and  spurs),  the  ablutions  renewed, 
then  pipes  and  coffee.  Many  visitors  "  happened  in,"  who  asked 
a,ll  sorts  of  questions,  and  made  all  sorts  of  remarks,  which 

H understanding,  translated  to  me.     Then  off  to  bed,  much 

pleased  with  my  initiation  dinner.     H ,  who  is  an  epicure, 

and  hon  vivanl^  saj^s,  a  good  Turkish  cook  will  equal  a  French 
one  in  the  delicacy  of  his  nice  dishes. 

October  19th,  Kosarko. — True  enough,  the  road  has  been  fully 
as  rough  as  they  represented,  though  we  have  seen  no  robbers, 
against  which  they  wished  us  to  take  a  host  of  Zaptiyahs  (guards), 
all  but  two  of  whom  we  had  declined.  Had  fine  views  of  the 
country  in  crossing  the  mountains. 

Passed  numerous  tents  of  Urrucks  and  Zebeques,  a  sort  of 
demi-civilized  Turks  who  rob  or  murder  as  suits  their  conve- 
nience. They  wear  picturesque  costumes,  with  a  huge  pistol 
(stuck  in  the  long  girdle  around  the  waist),  for  use  or  ornament 
as  occasion  requires. 


Chifi'if'^''' '" 


Mffe'  ^^ 


t  \  1^ 


Sketched  by  tlie  Author. 


See  page  115. 


VIEW  OF  PERGAMUS. 


KUmS  AT  PERGAMOS.  116 

In  a  small  village  met  the  Aga,  who  appeared  to  be  holding 
court ;  he  sent  us  on  to  the  next  village,  promising  to  accompany 
us  the  day  after  to  Pergamos.  About  twenty  Zebeques  followed 
the  greater  part  of  the  way  for  their  pleasure.  Our  quarters, 
one  end  of  a  stable.  The  soldiers  sent  us  some  rice  and  milk  in  a 
huge  dish :  some  "  swollen  wheat,"  cheese,  and  a  villanous  sort  of 
ash  cake  made  from  barley,  ground  husks  and  all.  A  luxurious 
supper  for  two  gentlemen !  we  then  "  tumbled  in  "  on  a  mud 
floor,  I  with  all  my  clothes  on  even  to  boots  and  spurs,  with 
saddle  for  a  pillow,  and  coverlet — bed  and  quilt. 

Oct.  20th. — Pergamos. — This  morning  off  by  daylight,  but 
the  Aga  was  before  us ;  we  have  been  journeying  in  a  rough 
mountainous  country.  At  eleven  reached  the  valley  leading  to 
Pergamos.  Soon  saw  the  remains  of  a  Eoman  bridge  and  aque- 
duct— the  immense  ruins  of  the  amphitheatre,  built  arch  upon 
arch,  three  stories  high,  over  the  current  of  a  small  stream; 
a  singular  structure  and  more  pecuhar  situation.  Peaching  the 
city,  traversed  it  in  search  of  lodgings;  at  last  quartered  on  a 
Greek,  with  a  prospect  of  some  comfort ;  then  climbed  the  isolated 
Acropohs  hill,  with  nothing  to  repay  but  the  sight  of  a  ruin  of 
the  middle  ages. 

Euin-hunting  through  the  town,  saw  the  remains  of  the  old 
theatre,  of  which  two  ends  are  standing ;  on  to  the  amphitheatre, 
which  we  sketched  in  spite  of  a  young  hurricane  which  nearly 
blew  us  away.  After  this,  saw  a  famous  sewer,  an  eighth  of  a 
mile  long,  undermining  part  of  the  town,  and  serving  as  a  passage 
for  the  river.  Beyond  this,  a  curious  old  building  (of  marble) 
said  to  have  been  the  palace  of  the  Roman  governor. 

Oct.  21st. — KiRKAG-HATSCH. — Off  by  daylight,  taking,  as  we 
went  out,  a  rapid  saddle  sketch  of  the  valley  and  distant  moun- 
tains. Passed  some  people  returning  from  a  fair — among  them 
some  gipsies  with  dancing  bears,  looking  scarcely  more  savage 
than  their  masters.    At  eight  got  here,  when  the  Bey  put  us  up 


116  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

in  a  nice  Greek  house,  with  well  carpeted  floors  and  silk  divans. 
Immediately  on  our  arrival,  the  pretty  wife  of  the  host  brought 
us  some  confectionery,  sherbet,  and  coffee.  Then  dinner.  At 
bed-time,  two  famous  beds,  covered  with  silk,  were  laid  on  the 
floor,  and  so  large  they  nearly  filled  the  room ;  for  coverlets, 
superb  silk  quilts,  a  most  unexpected  luxury. 

Oct.  22d — Marmora. — Off  and  reached  Aksa  (Thyatira)  in  a 
few  hours ;  it  is  pleasantly  situated,  though  little  beyond  associa- 
tion to  recommend  it.  The  horses  had  to  almost  swim  through 
the  streets  in  reaching  the  "Kaimakans."  While  waiting  for  the 
Aga  to  return  from  his  devotions,  the  Zaptiyahs  brought  in  two 
robbers,  whom  they  collared,  and  fastened  the  other  end  of  the 
long  chain  to  a  hinge  on  the  outside  of  the  prison.  Were  soon 
off,  as  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen,  and  rode  over  a  flat  country, 
near  the  estate  given  by  the  Sultan  to  Lamartine,  pausing  occa- 
sionally for  a  saddle  sketch,  and  reaching  Marmora  about  seven. 

Stopping  first  at  the  Aga's  for  house,  and  horses  the  next  day. 
He  is  a  splendid  fellow  of  the  "  old  school."  The  Sulagee  had 
refused  to  let  us  have  his  horses,  and  he  had  got  the  consent  of 
the  last  Aga  to  the  arrangement.  But  as  we  could  not  get  others 
here,  and  the  present  ones  are  so  good,  (with  our  firman  in  hand,) 
persuaded  the  Aga  to  decide  that  we  could  have  these  until  we 
found  others  to  suit  us,  even  if  we  had  to  keep  them  until  we 
reached  Smyrna.  Jolly  justice  for  poor  travellers !  The  Tan- 
zimut  makes  terrible  work  for  travellers  and  also  inhabitants,  by 
abolishing  capital  punishment  as  well  as  almost  that  of  every 
other  kind.  Eobbers  are  only  shut  up  for  a  few  months,  perhaps 
a  year  if  they  commit  murder. 

Oct.  23d — Sardis. — A  pleasant  early  morning  ride  soon 
brought  us  in  sight  of  Mt.  Molus,  the  Gygaean  Lake,  and  im- 
mense tumuli  of  the  Lydian  kings.  That  of  Alyattus,  father  of 
Croesus,  being  much  the  largest,  is  described  by  Herodotus,  as 
vieing  with  the  finest  monuments  of  Egypt  or  Babylon  ;  is  three 


A   DEJEUNER   A   LA  DOIGT.  117 

quarters  of  a  mile  at  its  base  by  two  hundred  feet  high  ;  it  is  a 
mound  of  earth  with  foundation  of  stone.  The  lake  is  large — 
covered  with  wild  fowl. 

At  a  small  coffee-house,  they  said  the  night  before  the  Zapti- 
yahs  had,  in  a  small  "scrimmage,"  killed  three  robbers  and  cap- 
tured two  more.  Last  week  about  twenty  Zebeques  had  occu- 
pied one  of  these  tumuli,  and  robbed  or  shot  all  who  passed. 

Crossed  the  Hermes,  a  small  stream,  but  in  the  spring  a  deep 
river.  Stopped  to  coffee  with  an  Aga  whom  we  passed  at  his 
encampment.  Eeached  Sardis  about  one.  Leaving  our  saddle- 
bags, pushed  on  to  some  huge  remains  of  a  building  formerly  a 
theatre.  Then  the  ancient  temple  of  Cybele  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  Acropolis  hill ;  only  two  columns  standing,  and  of  Ionic 
order ;  there  are  remains  of  several  others  lying  near ;  we 
sketched  these  two  and  the  Acropolis.  Then  a  vast  building 
called  "  The  Palace  of  the  Ceesars,"  which  we  sketched.  This 
evening  came  in  two  hours  to  a  small  village ;  quartered  in  a 
guard  house  (second  story).  As  I  was  coming  down  stairs,  a 
large  savage  dog  sprung  at  my  foot  through  the  open  steps, 
caught  me  in  the  heel,  and  took  the  whole  length  of  my  heavy 
spur  down  his  throat !  he  sloped. 

Oct.  24:ih. — NiMFi. — Off  early,  and  at  eleven  reached  Cassibar, 
celebrated  for  its  musk  melons ;  called  upon  the  Bey,  a  capital 
old  fellow,  and  just  in  time  for  a  dejeuner  a  la  doigt,  that  being 
Turkish  fashion ;  so  took  pipes  and  coffee  first,  then  adjourned  to 
the  balcony,  where  cushions  were  laid,  and  ablutions  performed. 
We  were  soon  at  work.  Only  us  three,  on  each  side  of  the  table 
a  large  dish  of  melons  cut  in  small  pieces,  bread  and  a  dish  of  fine 
cut  meat  in  the  centre,  for  general  use.  The  breakfast  consisted 
of  several  courses,  commencing  with  fried  eggs,  followed  by  vege- 
tablcis,  stewed  meat,  stewed  beans,  and  a  pillaf,  which  is  always 
the  finishing  course  at  a  Turkish  table ;  the  vegetables  supply 
the  place  of  drinkables,  which  I  have  never  seen  on  one  of  their 
tables.     Ablutions  again,  then  pipes  and  coffee.     He  had  some 


118  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

curious  old  guns  tliat  were  brought  out  for  our  inspection.  My 
gun  and  revolver  pleased  him  very  much.  He  was  quite  a 
sportsman,  though  off  his  training,  (weighing  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty.)  Got  here  at  five ;  town  beautifully  situated ;  lodg- 
ings, beastly. 

Oct.  2oth. — Tepaquie. — In  about  two  hours  arrived  at  the 
monument  of  Sesostris,  described  by  Herodotus.  It  is  a  tablet 
above  life  size,  cut  in  the  face  of  the  rock,  about  one  hundred 
feet  above  the  road.  Lord  Mandeville,  a  friend  of  H.'s,  was 
robbed  here  some  two  years  ago,  and  they  were  about  to  cut  off 
one  of  his  fingers  to  get  a  ring  that  fitted  very  tight ;  luckily, 
he  succeeded  in  getting  it  off,  and  so  saved  his  finger.  It  is  a 
famous  place  for  robbers.  Our  present  quarters  are  a  miserable 
hovel,  we  at  one  end,  and  a  Bey  and  his  Zaptiyahs  at  the  other. 

Oct.  26ih. — Ephesus. — This  morning  made  sketches  of  some 
tremendously  "swell"  Zebeques  and  Zaptiyahs, — then  off  for  this 
place,  which  we  reached  at  twelve ;  the  Bey  being  off  two  hours 
in  the  mountains,  they  would  not  give  us  rooms,  but  said  we 
had  better  go  up  to  him  and  show  our  firman,  which  pleasant 
little  excursion  we  respectfully  declined,  and  took  possession  of 
the  first  house  we  could  find,  sending  our  firman  to  him  while 
we  went  sight-seeing. 

The  modern  Ephesus  dates  for  two  hundred  years  only,  and 
is  now  called  Ayasaluk ;  it  presents  rather  a  fine  appearance  in 
approacliing,  with  its  Acropolis,  ruined  mosques,  and  extensive 
aqueduct.  We  made  a  saddle  sketch  as  we  approached;  and 
now,  winding  our  way  to  the  ancient  city,  two  miles  off,  paused 
to  examine  some  large  ruins  of  great  si^e,  passing  the  extensive 
remains  of  the  Stadium,  and  on  to  the  Acropolis,  from  which  we 
had  a  fine  view  of  ruined  temples  and  theatre.  One  of  the  for- 
mer was  the  scene  of  an  interesting  incident  in -St.  Paul's  eventful 
life.  Returned  to  the  theatre,  of  which  only  a  part  of  the  ends, 
and  a  seat  or  two  are  remaining.     Extending  from  the  side  of 


Sketclied  hv  the  Author. 


See  page  IIG. 


VIEW   OF  TIIYATIKA 


AUDACIOUS   ROBBERS.  119 

this  for  several  hundred  feet,  are  projections  for  columns,  as 
if  it  had  been  the  fa9ade  of  some  vast  building,  or  a  colonnade. 
This  is  on  one  side  of  a  hill  which  stood  near  the  suburbs  of  the 
city.  As  I  passed  around  this  hill,  paused  on  the  top  of  the 
theatre  for  a  sketch  of  the  Acropolis  and  "bird's-eye"  view  of 
the  harbor.  Then,  further  on,  passed  another  immense  ruin, 
and  a  similar  arrangement  for  portico  or  colonnade ;  and  then, 
home. 

Nicolo  has  laid  himself  out  for  a  famous  dinner,  three  full 
courses — boiled,  stewed,  and  roast  chicken — most  sumptuous 
entertainment  after  our  fortnight's  fare  of  twelve  to  sixteen 
hours  in  the  saddle  daily,  and  then  generally  nothing  but  rice 
and  poor  bread. 

Oct.  21tli, — Sedecui. — Last  night  a  terrific  storm,  thundering 
and  lightening  incessantly,  while  the  rain  poured  in  through  our 
well- ventilated  roofs  in  every  direction;  among  other  excite- 
ments were  screams  and  shouts,  which  Nicolo  informed  me  this 
morning  were  caused  by  robbers.  They,  hearing  some  travellers 
were  to  arrive  with  money,  lay  in  wait  for  them,  and  "  pour  passer 
le  temps,"  they  robbed  the  mail  just  three  miles  from  the  city ! 
The  travellers  not  appearing,  they  entered  the  town  last  evening 
to  inquire  for  them,  and  hence  the  screams. 

The  Bey,  unknown  to  us,  had  stationed  three  guards  at  our 
door  to  protect  us.  Examining  our  arms,  we  set  off  for  another 
survey  of  the  ruins.  The  marble  mosque  is  a  fine  old  building ; 
also  discovered  the  remains  of  some  old  churches.  On  returning, 
to  our  great  surprise  found  no  horses  had  arrived ;  after  a  row 
of  a  couple  of  hours,  we  were  again  fairly  in  the  saddle,  one  of 
the  horses,  making  our  complement,  having  come  by  virtue  of 
compulsion ;  and  now  could  not  get  any  Zaptij^ahs  for  a  guard  ; 
so  trusting  to  our  arms  and  good  luck,  pushed  off  by  ourselves ; 
towards  dusk  picked  up  an  Arnaut  Zaptiyah.  As  we  approached 
a  small  village,  there  was  a  tremendous  bustle.  A  Pasha's 
harem  had  arrived  en  route  to  Smyrna,  with  a  good  guard  for 


120  •   FROM   "WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

them,  and  especially  the  "pickings  and  stealings"  of  his  Pashalic. 
Other  Zaptiyahs  were  starting  off  in  different  directions  for  rob- 
bers ;  another  party  had  brought  in  a  robber's  head  during  the 
day.  The  officials  would  not  give  us  any  guards,  so  we  showed 
the  firman:  raising  a  "big  fuss,"  and  abusing  them  pretty  tho- 
roughly, they  gave  us  two  Amauts,  (who  are  generally"  plucky" 
fellows) ;  so  pushed  on  by  moonlight,  reaching  this  at  near 
twelve,  and  over  thirteen  hours  in  the  saddle !  Routing  up  the 
ofiicials,  got  a  night's  quarters  in  the  office  of  the  Bey. 

The  village  is  the  one  where  the  Dutch  Consul  was  carried  off 
by  the  robbers  last  year,  while  playing  with  his  children  in  his 
garden,  and  only  released  on  payment  of  $3,000. 

Oct.  28ih. — Smyrna. — In  saddle  by  sunrise,  and  here  by  ten, 
after  a  most  delightful  and  interesting  excursion:  got  in  by 
good  luck  safely,  for  which  we  have  been  congratulated  by  every 
one.  A  few  days  ago,  a  Greek  gentleman  was  caught  while  out 
shooting,  and  obliged  to  pay  $5,000  ransom.  The  robbers  have 
an  ugly  trick  of  shooting  you  from  behind  rocks  and  trees,  and 
then  plundering  3-0  u  at  leisure.  Most  of  these  places  are  the  sites 
of  the  "Seven  Churches "  mentioned  in  Eevelations.  Christianitv 
was  first  planted  at  Ephesus  by  St.  Paul.  Pliny  represents  this 
city  as  the  ornament  of  Asia,  and  the  largest  city  in  Asia  Minor. 
The  "  Temple  of  Diana,"  made  familiar  by  the  narrative  in  the 
"Acts  of  the  Apostles,"  was  one  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the 
world.  Laodicea,  a  few  ruins ;  Philadelphia,  a  number;  Sardis, 
about  the  same ;  Thyatira,  none  ;  and  Pergamos  a  few  uncertain 
ones :  but  she  and  Sardis  have  the  best.  Smyrna  has  none  at 
all,  the  only  relic  of  Christianity  is  a  chapel  for  the  benefit 
of  the  few  English  residents  and  travellers.  These  churches 
or  these  sights  have  now  no  interest  but  association  and  occasional 
■display  of  ruins. 

Oct.  29th. — To-day  H.  and  I  have  been  overhauling  our  traps 
.and  having  regular  "  swaps,"    He  is  going  to  Germany  and  Eng- 


BEIRT^TT.  121 

land,  and  I  on  my  eastward  flight ;  so  among  other  tilings  I've 
got  all  his  drawing  and  painting  materials ;  and  if  I  don't  come 
back  a  Raphael  or  Claude,  I  probably  shall  return  somebody 
else. 

Oct.  Zlst. — To-day  at  church,  and  this  afternoon  promenaded 
the  streets,  looking  at  the  handsome  women ;  passing  my  banker, 

Mr,  L ,  he  called  me  in  and  introduced  me  to  his  family ; 

his  daughters  are  among  the  prettiest  young  ladies  I  have  seen. 

Nov.  1st. — At  Sea,  off  Chios. — On  board,  after  bidding  H. 
good-bye, — same  day  and  same  destination  as  last  year  for  both : 
Athens  and  Beirut.  Few  passengers.  Among  them  a  New 
Hampshire  man,  half  editor,  half  preacher,  with  the  sons  of  seve- 
ral well  known  New  Yorkers  under  his  charge,  for  a  wander  in 
Europe  and  the  East. 

Nov.  6ih. — BEiRiyT. — Got  in  this  morning,  warmly  welcomed 
by  Demetrius,  my  handsome  petticoated  landlord  of  last  year ; 
while  hosts  of  Alies,  Achmets,  Mustaphas,  Musas,  and  Abdallahs 
dragomen  of  my  numerous  acquaintances  last  year,  gave  me 
recognizing  grins,  doubtless  hoping  I  was  going  over  another 
seven  months'  tour.  My  friend  Mr.  Smith  was  busy  with  his 
sermon  to-day,  so  I  only  saw  his  family. 

Nov.  7th. — To-day,  to  church ;  this  morning  heard  Mr.  "Whit- 
ing, who  is  very  popular  and  highly  esteemed  by  the  natives. 
This  evening  a  grand  illumination  in  honor  of  the  new  Pasha  who 
arrived  Saturday.  The  shopkeepers  attended  him  through  the 
bazaars,  sprinkling  rose  water  before  him. 

Nov.  8th. — Mr.  Smith  is  to  write  to  some  friends  at  Damascus, 
who  are  to  arrange,  if  possible,  for  me  to  get  to  Palmyra, — at  all 
times  a  difficult  and  dangerous  undertaking.  Mr.  S.  is  getting 
on  finely  with  his  translation :  has  finished  the  Pentateuch  and 


122  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

been  engaged  for  some  weeks  on  the  New  Testament.  This  even- 
ing another  procession  :  sword-dancers  and  others,  each  business 
or  procession  having  its  evening.  Then  to  the  Beirut  theatre  ;  a 
blacky  was  bobbing  in  and  out  a  dignitary's  box,  as  if  the  most 
important  personage  in  it.  The  blacks  here  have  so  decided  a 
color,  that  most  American  "darkies"  would  almost  fancy  them- 
selves "white  folks"  by  the  side  of  them.  The  opera  glasses 
and  "white  kids"  very  amusing  in  this  place;  about  as  wide  as 
a  good  sized  parlor. 

Nov.  llih. — Jebal. — This  morning,  long  before  light,  I  heard 
Achmet's  shrill  "  Mussir,  Hand !  mussir,  Hand !"  I  sprang  out 
of  bed,  recognizing  his  tones,  though  not  having  the  least  idea 
whether  in  Beirut,  Desert,  or  Egypt.  Soon  off  with  my  new 
dragoman  Yousif  (Anglice,  Joseph),  with  Ali  dignified  as  cook, 
this,  my  first  night  of  tenting  "solitaire;"  but  All's  good  dinner 
had  wonderful  charms  by  way  of  companionship.  To-day,  met 
a  man  going  to  market  with  grapes,  and  stopped  him;  he  picked 
up  two  or  three  stones  for  weight! — and  all  five  of  us  carried  off  as 
many  grapes  as  we  could  eat,  for  a  piastre  (five  cents).  As  the 
weather  is  so  cold  with  snow  on  Lebanon,  I  sleep  to-night  half 
way  up. 

Nov.  14:th. — Baalbec. — This  morning  off  an  hour  before  sun- 
rise ;  awfully  cold,  and  everything,  plaids,  coats,  capote,  &;c.,  in 
requisition;  in  an  hour  and  a  half  at  the  "Cedars."  The  New 
Hampshire  man  and  his  young  proteges  only  just  "  off  the  roost." 
There  are  about  two  hundred  trees  scattered  over  a  space  of  three 
or  four  acres  in  a  hollow  of  the  mountain.  Few  are  over  two 
feet  in  diameter,  though  some  reach  three  and  five.  There  are 
three  or  four  very  patriarchal  ones,  that  have  half-a-dozen  trunks 
growing  from  one  root  or  parent  stock;  with  the  exception  of 
these  few,  none  look  very  old.  I  got  a  cane  from  the  top  of  the 
largest  tree.     Made  some  sketches  and  then  set  off. 

Nov.  loth. — ZiBDANiEH. — Sketched  at  Baalbec  yesterday  after- 


Sketched  by  the  Author. 


See  page  117. 


SARDIS.    "SEVEN  CIIUKCHES.' 


DAMASCUS.  123 

noon,  and  this  morning,  wandered  over  the  tops  of  tlie  village 
liouses  "sans  ceremonie,"  for  good  views. 

Nov.  16ih, — Damascus. — To-day  an  alarm  from  Bedouins  and 
Druses ;  seeing  some  strange  armed  horsemen  galloping  across 
the  plain,  we  got  our  guns  and  pistols  ready,  poor  Ali  vowing 
if  he  got  to  Damascus  he'd  buy  a  pair  of  sixty  piastre  pistols  ($3). 
I  have  been  to  see  the  missionaries  (American),  and  the  English 
consul  to  learn  the  chances  of  getting  to  Palmyra — none  at  present. 
Having  done  most  of  my  sight-seeing  last  spring,  and  now  compa- 
ratively "  a  man  of  leisure,"  I  see  the  missionaries  often :  Mr. 
Paulding,  from  New  York ;  Mr.  Burnett,  Ohio ;  Mr.  Fraser,  I 
don't  know  where  from ;  and  Mr.  Lansing,  from  the  Mohawk. 

Nov.  22c?. — My  carpet-bag  was  broken  open  a  few  days  since 
and  revolver  stolen.  Andrea,  my  hotel-keeper,  being  in  a  great 
way  about  it,  asked  me  to-day  to  go  with  him  and  see  a  magician. 
To  please  him  I  went ;  he  looked  very  grave  and  heard  the 
story,  Andrea  declares  he'd  be  the  very  devil  if  he  found  it. 
Big-bearded  Abraham,  our  juvenile  waiter  (of  seventy,  who,  to 
comfort  himself  after  a  six  weeks  widowerhood,  took  to  himself 
another  wife  a  few  days  since),  shakes  his  head  and  looks  wise. 

Nov.  23d — To-day,  while  sketching  the  court  of  our  house, 
in  rushed  Andrea  with  my  pistol.  A  miserable  blackguard 
after  being  chained,  throttled,  and  thrust  into  some  dark  hole, 
confessed — and  Yousif  I  find  is  the  thief! 

Nov.  28th. — This  morning  saw  the  "Hadj"  enter  the  city  on 
its  return  from  Mecca ;  amused  at  the  curious  mode  and  style  of 
camel  conveyance.  I  will  send  you  a  sketch  I  made.  One  camel 
carries  a  "  pall "  and  the  supposed  cofiin  of  Mahomet,  and  ever 
after  he  is  held  sacred ;  happy  fellow ! 

Nov.  29th. — The  sheiks  positively  refuse  to  take  me  to  Pal- 


124  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

myra,  and  as  Yousif  says  he  has  been  once,  and  thinks  he  knows 
the  way  through  the  desert,  I've  concluded  to  overlook  his  theft, 
as  in  the  main,  he's  a  capital  dragoman  with  plenty  of  "  pluck ;" 
has  been  in  Ibraham  Pasha's  service,  thus  used  to  gunpowder ; 
and  to-morrow  is  to  get  me  my  Arab  disguise  dress,  and  take  me 
safe  to  Palmyra,  and  back  to  Beirut  in  nine  days  (with  one  at 
Palmyra),  which  just  saves  me  the  steamer,  while  I  overlook  his 
fault,  and  pay  an  awful  sum  of  money. 

Nov.  SOih. — To-day  settled  my  contract  at  the  English  Consul's, 
(we  have  none  here),  breakfasted  with  them,  and  then  off  in  a 
pelting  rain  ;  put  up  to-night  in  a  dirty  village,  the  head  man  in 
jail  for  some  villany,  so  can't  say  what  the  rest  of  the  people 
must  be ;  our  accommodation  for  man  and  beast,  three  men  (with 
self)  and  three  horses,  are  two  muddy  rooms,  six  feet  high  by 
twelve  square, 

Dec.  Ist. — JuRUUD. — An  Arab  village ;  I  caught  a  fever  last 
night  and  am  so  weak,  I  have  been  holding  on  to  my  horse  and 
saddle  all  day  with  both  hands.  Passed  this  village  this  afternoon, 
stopping  for  a  little  while  in  the  sheik's  hut ;  presently  there  was 
a  grand  stir,  and  they  went  to  prayers  led  off  by  a  big  turbaned 
fellow. 

Dec.  Sd. — Palmyra. — Got  here  at  three  to-day.  Last  night  and 
the  night  before  I  slept  about  four  hours  on  the  bare  ground  (cold 
work),  with  my  bridle  in  my  hand,  and  the  men  the  same ;  but  every 
few  minutes  my  horse  would  plump  his  feed-bag  on  my  head,  or 
paw  close  to  it ;  and  the  others,  I  take  it,  did  not  get  much  more 
sleep,  from  the  frequent  angry  growls  I  heard.  As  we  got  near 
this  place,  the  mountain  ranges  seemed  to  approach  closer  until 
within  a  mile,  when  they  resolved  themselves  into  a  barrier  of 
rough  broken  hills.  These  hills  are  covered  with  old  mud  ruins 
and  part  of  a  wall  led  out  on  this  side.  Passing  this  and  reach- 
ing the  opposite  side.  Palmyra,  the  ruined  capital  of  the  "Queen 
of  the  East,"  lay  before  us  in  all  its  beauty.     By  this  one  view 


KUINS  AT  PALMYRA.  125 

I  felt  most  amply  paid  for  all  my  fatigue  and  annoyances,  great 
as  they  were.  Baalbec  is  more  grand  with  its  immense  founda- 
tions, beautiful  architraves,  portals,  and  columns.  Carnac  is  mag- 
nificent with  its  massive  columns,  and  fallen  obelisks,  surrounded 
by  lofty  walls  and  towering  pylons ;  but  for  light  graceful  beauty 
combined  with  extent,  I've  seen  nothing  in  all  my  wanderings 
that  can  bear  the  least  comparison  with  Palmyra.  Euined  tem- 
ples and  colonnades  cover  a  space  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half 
long.  There  is  one — immensely  long  (several  hundred  feet) — 
continuous  colonnade  of  white  marble ;  the  "  Grand  Temple  of  the 
Sun  "  is  situated  on  the  extreme  southerly  part  of  the  city.  The 
hills  on  the  western  side  are  covered  with  lofty  tombs  and  square 
towers,  whose  sole  ornament  is  a  niche  half  way  up  the  front  of 
each.  In  the  extreme  north,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  stands  an 
old  fortress,  from  its  appearance  probably  Saracenic.  Coming  in 
we  wound  around  the  southern  part,  stopping  at  a  sulphur  spring 
to  water  our  horses — the  only  water  here.  Then  to  the  "  Great 
Temple  " — the  house  of  the  sheik,  which  consisted  of  one  large 
apartment  with  a  fire  near  our  end.  This  part  being  the  seat  of 
state,  I  was  duly  installed  and  coffee'd ;  and  after  "  a  bit  of  lunch," 
started  off  with  an  Arab  guide. 

Passing  through  the  grand  portal  of  the  great  colonnade,  I  saw 
on  many  of  the  columns  Greek  inscriptions,  and  beneath  them 
another  of  Palmyrene.  Then  through,  or  by  other  colonnades, 
to  the  Tombs  Several  had  niches  in  front,  one  with  three 
figures  standing  behind  a  corpse  laid  out.  I  found  some  of  them 
divided  into  eight  partitions  for  the  dead ;  others  with  the  ceilings 
of  the  first  story  ornamented  in  various  designs,  the  angles  filled 
up  with  painted  figures.  Over  the  door,  are  several  figures  in 
basso-relievo ;  around  the  room,  pilasters  with  fine  caps ;  although 
of  two  or  three  stories  in  height,  I  could  find  no  passage  leading 
to  them. 

Most  of  the  tombs  are  dilapidated.  Here  I  stopped  and  made 
two  sketches.  The  Arabs  had  now  increased  to  about  twenty, 
and  raised  a  most  intolerable  din ;    one  moment  jogging  my 


126  FR01[   WALL   STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

elbow  while  trying  to  sec  wliat  I  was  about,  the  next  shout- 
ing Anizee  and  Arab,  to  frighten  me ;  then  they  would  dance, 
shoot, — anything  for  a  noise.  After  I  got  through,  returned  to 
the  ruins,  and  examined  a  small  temple  where  I  found  a  Roman 
inscription,  which  I  have  not  seen  mentioned  in  any  of  the 
books.  I  was  not  able  to  copy  it,  as  it  was  nearly  dark,  in  a 
bad  position,  and  somewhat  illegible.  Then  through  the  various 
ruins  and  by  the  granite  columns,  of  which  there  are  only  four 
left. 

Dr.  Paulding,  who  was  here  about  a  year  ago,  traced  the  walls 
of  the  city  for  a  long  distance,  and  thinks  they  could  not  have 
been  over  four  miles  in  circumference !  Now  to  the  sheik's,  it 
being  some  time  after  dark.  The  Arabs  having  left  me  in  dis- 
gust, my  guide  was  in  a  terrible  way  at  my  staying  out  so  late. 

On  my  return  found  the  rascals  had  tasted  away  my  only  bot- 
tle of  wine  in  the  absence  of  Yousif,  who  had  stepped  out  for 
a  few  minutes  to  attend  to  his  horses.  And  now  they  complain 
that  their  heads  feel  queer,  as  they  are  very  temperate  in  their 
habits,  and  seldom  taste  any  kind  of  liquor. 

They  are  the  most  curiously  inquisitive  people  I  have  ever  met 
with.  This  evening  they  got  up  a  grand  entertainment  for  me, 
giving  me  mine  in  my  corner  of  state,  to  eat  in  lone  dignity. 
Not  feeling  well,  I  wished  it  far  enough,  but  had  to  eat  some, 
or  they  would  have  been  offended,  I  then  stretched  out  on  a  rug 
before  the  fire  for  the  night,  while  at  the  other  end  of  the  room 
the  Arab  vagabonds  were  "doing  up"  Mahomet  with  every 
variety  of  attitude  in  their  "  religion  culbutant." 

December  4:th. — This  morning  off  to  the  ruins  by  daylight. 
Before  starting,  bought  of  the  sheik  a  fine  marble  head,  which  he 
had  discovered  in  the  ruins  about  a  fortnight  before.  I  after- 
wards learned  that  the  French  Consul  at  Damascus  agreed  to 
pay  him  handsomely  for  any  sculpture  he  found  in  the  ruins,  and 
would  bring  to  him ;  so  to  save  the  trouble  of  carrying  the  body 
he  knocked  off  the  head !  but  coming  first,  I  took  advantage  of  it 


RUINS  AT  PALMYRA.  127 

to  "  drive  a  bargain."  I  deeply  regretted  not  knowing  about 
the  body: — but  learned  it  too  late;  my  servant  "picked  up" 
the  story  and  told  it  to  me  on  my  return  to  Damascus.  Clam- 
bered up  the  little  temple  which  occupies  the  centre  of  the  grand 
court,  which  is  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  breadth  by 
six  himdred. 

In  different  parts  of  the  court  are  scattered  groups  or  rows  of 
marble  columns,  and  I  presume,  originally,  the  interior  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  fine  colonnade.  On  to  the  interior  of  the  little 
temple,  which  has  been  beautiful,  sketched  one  end,  and  after- 
wards the  upper  part  of  the  front ;  the  lower  is  buried  in  Arab 
huts. 

The  exterior  walls  on  the  north  and  south  side  of  the  court,  are 
much  dilapidated,  but  have  the  remains  of  "  the  pilasters ; "  the 
eastern  is  new,  built  up  wath  odd  bits  of  columns.  Then,  on 
sketching  the  grand  entrance  to  the  colonnade,  and  made  several 
other  drawings  as  I  wandered  through  the  rest  of  the  ruins:  by 
that  time  my  day  had  been  stretched  to  twenty-five  hours,  and 
Yousif  was  very  impatient,  as  were  the  Arabs,  lest  some  prowl- 
ers of  the  "  Anisees,"  the  ruling  tribe  of  the  desert,  might  make 
their  appearance,  as  they  did  last  year,  when  they  blockaded  two 
of  my  English  friends,  Cathcart  and  Noel,  in  the  sheik's  house 
within  an  hour  after  their  arrival. 

The  Arab  guide  we  "picked  up"  on  our  way  out  here,  having 
persuaded  Yousif  to  pay  him  (contrary  to  my  advice),  he  con- 
sequently declined  returning  with  us,  but  sent  a  boy  of  thirteen, 
on  a  bare-back  horse,  and  two  nearly  naked  Arabs  with  clubs. 
We  were  soon  left  by  all  but  the  boy.  Presently  passed  part  of 
the  "Hadj."  Palmyra,  I  imagine,  must  have  been  supported 
almost  entirely  by  her  commerce,  even  to  the  necessaries  of  life, 
as  all  the  ground,  except  one  small  tract  adjoining  the  city,  with 
a  fortress  and  small  lake,  is  sand  or  gravel. 

A  more  desolate  sight  than  the  hills  behind  the  city  can  hardly 
be  imagined.  The  Arabs  are  lazy  villains,  and  do  nothing  but 
smoke,  steal,  or  fight.     The  ground  to  Jeruud  is  hard  and  gravelly, 


128  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

except  now  and  then  a  few  spots  of  light  sandy  clay  with  holes 
into  which  my  horse  was  constantly  stumbling.  I  saw  three 
gazelles  this  afternoon ;  to-night  stopped  two  hours  to  rest  and 
for  the  moon,  sleeping  on  the  ground,  and  though  fearfully  cold, 
afraid  to  kindle  a  lire  lest  it  might  attract  the  Arabs. 

December  bill. — Jeruud. — Started  again  last  night  at  twelve — 
reached  Kuryatin,  another  Arab  village,  at  six,  rested  a  couple 
of  hours,  and  off  for  this  place  at  eight.  This  evening  the  Arab 
boy  either  lost  himself  or  ran  off;  so  we  groped  on  alone  till  about 
ten,  when  we  halted  until  one  for  the  moon.  As  we  were  pre- 
paring to  start  off,  heard  the  distant  bark  of  a  dog,  and  following 
the  sound,  in  an  hour  we  came  to  a  small  village.  Here  Yousif 
wanted  to  stop  and  feed  his  horses :  The  "  Khan  keeper"  took  us 
to  a  room  where  not  less  than  twenty  Arabs  were  stretched  out 
asleep.  I  declined  the  accommodations,  and  as  he  had  no  other, 
he  proposed  building  a  fire  in  the  yard  until  the  horses  were  fed, 
but  I  insisted  upon  Yousif 's  going  on  to  the  sheik's  at  Jeruud  ; 
so  off  we  started,  getting  here  at  four  in  the  morning. 

Decerriber  6ih. — Damascus. — Fed  the  horses,  and  got  break- 
fast, such  as  it  was,  at  Jeruud,  and  just  as  we  were  starting,  our 
young  Arab  came  in ;  but  having  found  our  way  thus  far,  we 
let  him  go  home,  and  plodded  on  alone. 

Half  way,  turned  from  the  mountains  into  the  plain  of  Damas- 
cus. Here  we  found  a  coffee-vender's  stand,  with  a  pipe  or  two 
for  the  benefit  of  brigandizing  Arabs,  "  Yankees,"  or  what  not. 
He  had  a  companion,  the  Arab  "  Magician"  whom  Andrea  had 
consulted  about  the  revolver  at  Damascus.  As  we  were  starting, 
he  recognised  me  in  my  disguise,  and  was  about  making  some 
remarks,  when  Yousif  stopped  his  mouth  with  a  loaf  of  bread ! 

Got  back  to  the  hotel  at  five,  and  right  glad  to  have  a  bath  (a 
Turkish  one  next  door),  and  some  clean  clothes,  for,  except  my 
boots,  I  had  not  removed  an  article  of  dress  since  I  left  here 
seven  days  ago.  And  now  I  shall  preserve  my  Arab  costume, 
and  send  it  to  you  as  a  curiosity. 


Sketched  by  the  Author. 


EPHESUS. 


See  page  IIS. 


Skotche.l  by  the  Author.  See  l):ii,'e  Ti2. 

MT'LKTKKU,    KKTUUT. 


AN  ARAB   VILLAGE.  129 

I  am  the  first  one,  as  far  as  I  can  learn,  of  the  very  few  tra- 
vellers who  have  been  able  to  reach  this  place,  that  has  ever 
accomplished  it  on  horseback,  and  certainly  in  so  "  hap-hazard" 
a  manner,  without  guide  or  protecting  sheik.  Andrea  and  my 
missionary  friends  were  all  glad  to  see  me  safe  and  successfully 
back,  as  they  all  doubted  the  result  of  my  trip,  as  it  is  rare 
to  return  without  some  difficulty  there  or  on  the  way,  and 
perhaps  be  turned  back  before  reaching  it ;  so  bidding  all  good- 
bye, as  I  shall  be  off  again  at  daylight.  And  now  to  my 
"downy  couch"  of  "corn-husks,"  but  won't  I  sleep? — retiring 
with  tranquil  mind  (" happy 's  the  man  that  free  from  care")  and 
tired  body,  after  an  almost  unexpected  realization  of  this  great 
point  in  my  travels,  for  which  I  returned  purposely,  instead  of 
going  direct  from  Smyrna  to  Alexandria,  and  waited  at  Damas- 
cus a  fortnight  to  get  a  sheik  to  take  me  there.  Yet  seen  and 
gone  so  quick  it  now  seems  almost  like  a  beautiful  dream. 
These  fatigues  were  truly  realities,  especially  after  the  first  night 
out,  when  I  slept  in  that  damp  mud  hole  where  I  caught  a 
fever,  and  my  only  repose  twenty  hours  a  day  in  the  saddle 
for  three  days,  and  four  hours  sleep  in  fearfully  cold  nights  on 
the  bare  ground;  with  the  same  luxuries  returning,  "barring" 
the  fever  which  left  me  at  Palmyra — thanks  to  a  tough  constitu- 
tion, good  habits,  and  a  will  to  fight  it  out  and  get  well. 

Dec.  7  th. — This  morning  "en  route"  with  the  "  bulbul's  ma- 
tins ;"  I  passed  a  party  of  "  hadjies,"  and  saw  what  Dr.  Eobinson 
has  decided  to  be  the  ruins  of  ancient  Colchis.  At  nine  this 
evening  came  to  a  small  Arab  village,  and  put  up  where  we  coukh 
Ali  soon  had  my  bed  arranged ;  an  India-rubber  sheet  and  the 
quilt,  those  charming  companions  of  my  "  seven  churches"  tour, 
which  were  bed  and  bedding  "barring  "  the  saddle  pillow.  Dinner 
served,  not  "a  la  Frangaise"  certainly,  but  most  enjoyable. 
The  entire  family  squatted  themselves  at  the  respectable  distance 
of  four  or  five  feet,  and  while  watching  my  graceful  "handling" 
of  knife  and  fork,  and  the  mysterious  disappearance  of  tongue 

9 


loO  FROM    WALI.   STREET   TO   CASUMERE. 

and  chicken,  they  regaled  me  with  clouds  of  smoke  from  their 
pipes,  which  I  from  civility  and  good-nature  had  to  endure. 

Dec.  8th. — Beirt!jt. — At  daylight  a  cheval,  having  passed  a 
most  comfortable  night  in  spite  of  unpromising  prospects,  with 
two  cats  keeping  "  watch  and  ward"  at  my  head,  with  noses  in 
close  proximity  to  our  provision  sack.  When  disturbed  by  me 
they  "sloped"  through  a  hole  in  the  door,  making  Yousif's  face 
a  resting  point,  "  en  route."  I  climbed  cold,  cheerless  Lebanon's 
crest,  getting  here  at  dark.  Had  a  row  with  the  custom-house 
officer  about  my  luggage,  which  he  wished  to,  and  did  ex- 
amine. "V-VTien  they  came  to  the  medicine-box  he  "passed" 
over  that,  while  I  did  my  best  to  get  him  to  taste  some  ipecacu- 
anha, and  wouldn't  I  have  given  him  a  nice  dose  ? — He  should 
have  had  the  full  benefit  of  my  medical  experience,  not  in  hos- 
pital, but  desert  practice.  The  hotel  was  full.  Called  and  bid 
good-bye  to  my  friend  Mr.  Smith,  now  an  LL.D.  for  his  orien- 
tal attainments ;  got  some  late  papers,  and  lots  of  news,  deaths, 
and  marriages  of  acquaintances. 

Dec.  lOlh. — Jaffa. — Yesterday  full  of  business,  paying  off 
and  giving  certificates  of  character,  for  every  one  in  your  em- 
ploy must  have  them ;  then  on  board.  Among  others  having 
some  French  dignitaries,  with  various  ofiicials,  to  bid  good-bye  to, 
besides  a  "Cawass"  (to  support  somebody's  dignity)  in  "full  fig" 
of  oriental  splendor.  Why  even  Joseph's  "  coat  of  many  colors" 
would  have  been  "  nowhere,"  with  every  color  in  the  rainbow 
and — about  a  dozen  more.  At  Jaffa 'we  discharged  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  pilgrims  of  freight !  The  relief  can  only  be 
appreciated  by  a  voyageur. 

Sunday,  Dec.  12, — Alexandria  Quarantine. — Got  in  at 
twelve,  to  be  lodged  in  Quarantine  three  days,  part  of  the  Pal- 
myra penance.  For  want  of  more  liberal  accommodations,  I  am 
to  share  a  small  room  with  a  Sicilian  Prince,  an  elegant  apart- 


A  PRINCELY  IGNORAMUS.  131 

ment,  twelve  by  sixteen,  two  barred,  windows,  and  charming 
vista  of  the  Quarantine.  We  had  to  wait  two  hours  for  our 
meagre  comforts  and  luggage  to  arrive;  Yankee-like,  I  "whit- 
tled" while  the  Prince  killed  time  and  "  dull  care"  with  a  "  bit 
of  dudeen,"  as  he  promenaded  the  room,  surmising  if  about 
five  hundred  blackguards,  who  are  now  making  an  awful  row 
across  the  way,  were  going  through  the  same  performance  every 
day.  My  bedstead  at  last  came,  and  what  should  it  be  but  a 
family  chicken-coop  of  cane.  Dinner  accomplished,  the  Prince 
went  to  bed  with  his  pipe,  growled  at  the  mosquitoes,  rolling  his 
eyes,  and  sighing  as  he  saw  me  arranging  my  mosquito  netting. 
My  taciturn  associate  has  been  trying  all  day,  with  a  perfect 
grandfather  of  a  spyglass,  to  see  through  the  Quarantine  walls,  for 
I  can  discover  no  other  object  to  look  at. 

December  loth. — A  batch  of  letters  from  the  United  States,  and 
books  from  London  for  my  India  travels.  This  afternoon  the 
Prince  has  been  giving  an  exhibition  to  our  Eussian  and  French 
acquaintances  in  legerdemain.  He  is  the  most  complete  ignora- 
mus Pve  seen.  He  was  at  Jerusalem  with  the  Eussians,  and 
asked  them  if  the  bones  of  Christ  were  still  in  the  holy  sepul- 
chre. He  asked  me  if  Egypt  was  in  Africa,  and  of  my  wander- 
ings, and  did  not  know  about  a  single  place.  He  is  of  the  oldest 
family  in  Sicily,  and  very  rich. 

December  17th. — Our  consul,  Mr.  M ,  is  dead — no  loss. 

Always  "  steamed  up"  with  brandy,  and  sometimes  took  bribes. 
Alexandria  is  much  more  like  a  European  town  than  Cairo — 
wider  streets,  carriages,  and  civilized  houses. 

December  19th. — Suez. — Got  into  Cairo  at  twelve  last  night. 
Pleasant  sail  and  saw  them  at  work  on  the  railroad.  This  morning 
we  were  all  packed  in  "  vans,"  "crumpet"  cart-looking  affairs  on 
two  wheels  with  four  horses,stowed  on  either  side,  sometimes  four, 
sometimes  six  seats,  omnibus  fashion ;  but  luckily  to-day,  never 
more  than  three  or  five  passengers,  so  we  had  room  for  coats  and 


132  FROM    WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

such  like :  numbered  ten  men,  all  officers,  civil  or  military,  except 
two  cadets,  a  Bombay  merchant,  and  self,  besides  a  lady  with  her 
child  and  maid.  We  were  preceded  by  a  blackey  outrider, 
"tricked  out"  in  turban,  frock-coat,  and  a  pair  of  old  slippers. 
Had  a  tolerably  pleasant  journey — horses  baulking — meals  now 
and  then — got  here  at  eleven  in  the  evening — guards  asleep,  and 
a  great  time  to  get  the  gates  unlocked. 

December  20th. — On  the  Eed  Sea, — A  cabin  to  myself  Toge- 
ther with  ten  others,  we  have  just  filled  the  ship.  One  a  distin- 
guished German  missionary,  sent  out  by  the  Missionary  Society  of 
London ;  he  was  sixteen  years  in  Assyria,  and  established,  with 
some  others,  a  missionary  station  too  near  the  Eussian  border 
or  influence ;  and  the  Eussian  government  managed  to  have  them 
ordered  out  of  the  country.     He  has  been  about  as  long  in  India. 

December  27th. — Aden. — Christmas — rough  sea,  and  most  of  the 
passengers  indisposed  for  gaiety.  Yesterday  passed  Mocha.  To- 
day ship  coaling  and  we  on  shore,  and  off  for  the  fortifications  and 
town,  which  is  a  mile  from  the  landing,  in  an  apparently  extinct 
crater.  The  place  is  very  strongly  fortified  and  horribly  hot.  Saw 
a  justice's  court  and  a  crowd  of  loungers  learning  law  "  gratis." 

The  donkey  and  horse-boys  plaster  their  hair  with  some  kind 
of  preparation  that  gives  it  a  saffron  color  and  straightening  it, 
looks  funny  enough,  flying  loose,  as  they  never  wear  hats. 

January  ls(,  1853. — Charming  day — everybody  in  good  humor, 
even  to  our  grumbling  captain. 

January  bth  {Wednesday). — Bombay. — Made  the  harbor  and 
anchored  at  two.  A  truly  Eastern  scene.  A  distant  horizon  of 
lofty  mountains  half  encircled  the  view,  and  just  visible  through 
the  rising  mist.  The  harbor  beautifully  picturesque  with  scat- 
tered islands,  covered  with  tall  graceful  palms.  Every  variety 
of  craft  skimmed  the  water  or  fretted  at  the  cable.  Old  dull 
Indiamen,  sharp  rakish  English  or  American  clippers,  and  native 


Sketched  by  the  Author.  See  page  llf.. 

ZEBEQUE  ZAPTIYAH,  EPHESUS. 


Sketched  by  the  Author.  See  page  118. 

ZKBKQUE   Z.VPTIVAH,    EPHE3US. 


LANDING   AT  BOMBAY.  133 

boats  of  every  shape  and  rig.  On  shore,  tlie  old  fort  and  wide 
esplanade,  with  hundreds  of  tents,  carriages,  equestrians,  and 
natives;  while  behind  all  these,  a  mile  distant,  the  town,  with 
its  tall  minarets  and  temple  towers,  completed  the  scene. 

Malabar  Point  on  the  north  stretches  far  out  to  sea,  forming 
a  large  bay  on  this  side  of  Bombay  Island, — on  the  other  a  wide 
expanse  of  water  that  puts  up  and  separates  it  from  the  main- 
land. Exchanged  cards  with  all  my  "civilian"  and  officer  ship- 
mate friends  I  have  made  on  board,  and  received  invitations  to 
visit  or  stay  with  them  (generally  the  latter)  when  I  reach  their 

stations.     I  started  for  shore  with  Captain  W and  family  ; 

he  is  Deputy-Secretary  of  State,  one  of  the  many  officers  in  civil 
employ.    He  had  invited  me  to  stay  with  him  while  in  Bombay. 

On  the  esplanade  were  great  numbers  of  tents  occupied  by 
temporary  visitors  to  Bombay,  officers,  civil  or  military,  either 
from  the  country  or  "going  up."  The  "Esplanade"  is  a  wide 
oiDcn  space  between  the  fort  and  native  town.  Late  in  the 
afternoon  it  is  thronged  with  ladies  and  gentlemen  riding  or 
driving — quite  a  miniature  "  Hyde  Park."  Wealthy  Hindoos, 
Mussulmen,  or  Parsees  in  their  handsome  equipages,  vicing  with 
high-salaried  English  officials  and  government  employes.  Occa- 
sionally a  rickety  gig,  packed  with  half  a  dozen  drunken  "Jack 
Tars,"  drawn  by  a  horse  looking  like  a  twin-brother  of  the  cab- 
man's horse  in  Pickwick,  that  only  managed  to  stand  up  while 
going.  Funny  little  bullock  carts,  and  the  animals  funnier  still, 
with  their  straight  horns  and  hump  on  their  fore  shoulders ;  they 
are  small,  active,  and  trot  along  like  ponies.  On  past  this  and 
the  native  town ;  it  was  getting  dark,  and  they  were  lighting  ujd  in 
all  kinds  of,  to  me,  singular  ways.  Here  were  "Joss  Houses," 
(Chinese  temples)  flaming  red  Hindoo  temples,  with  mosques : 
shops,  groggeries,  or  taverns  for  the  aquatic  portion  of  the  com- 
munity, and  enlivened  by  the  presence  of  long-tailed  Chinamen, 
drunken  rollicking  sailors,  grave  Persians  with  their  tall  pointed 
hats,  Arabs  in  the  "  dirty  picturesque,"  Parsees  in  their  white 
gowns  and  queer  hats,  Hindoos,  rich  and  poor,  from  the  opulent 


134  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

"Baboo"  in  bis  gossamer  "floating  robes,"  to  tbe  sturdy  porter 
in  his  sligbt  winter  costume  of  three  feet  of  twine  string,  and  a 
small  pocket  handkerchief! — mostly  with  their  different  "caste" 
daubs  of  paint  on  face  or  body.  A  more  motley  set  of  people 
it  would  be  hard  to  find  in  any  city  in  the  world.  Almost  every 
part  of  the  civilized  and  uncivilized  globe  had  its  representative, 
and  presenting  as  novel  a  tableau- vivant,  as  if  I  had  just  got  in 
from  Wall  street.  We  stopped  two  miles  out  at  a  delightful, 
large,  comfortable  house,  or  "bungalow,"  as  they  term  every 
house  here  except  the  Governor's  or  Eesident's,  which  they  call 
"Eesidencies."  You  can  scarce  imagine  my  pleasure,  with  such 
a  "  home  feeling,"  after  nearly  two  years  of  vagrandizing  and 
"  rouo-hino;." 

January  6ih. — This  morning  was  woke  up  by  the  galloping 
of  horses — found  I  was  near  the  "  race  course,"  and  the  horses 
exercising.  Drove  down  to  the  "  fort"  with  my  host,  he  to  attend 
to  business,  I  for  sightseeing,  shopping,  etc.  All  the  business 
by  Europeans  is  done  here.  Merchants'  and  bankers'  counting- 
houses,  shops  of  every  kind,  and  government  ofl&ces — the  fort 

being  but  a  walled  town.    Captain  W.  gave  me  a  note  to  Dr.  B , 

one  of  the  notabilities  here  in  a  literary  and  scientific  way^ 
besides  being  editor  of  the  Bombay  Times.  He  "booked  me 
up"  in  lots  of  places  I  ought  to  visit,  suggesting  Surat  and  its 
neighborhood  to  begin  with,  and  asked  me  to  dinner  for  next 
day,  when  he  would  show  me  his  collections,  and  talk  over  plans 
of  travel.  Then  I  went  to  my  bankers,  who  engaged  me  to  dinner 
for  another  day  to  discuss  tours.  Visited  with  Captain  W.  the 
library  and  museum,  and  this  afternoon  went  to  the  "  Club  House" 
and  to  inquire  about  travelling  servants. 

Jily  7th. — This  afternoon  drove  out  with  Captain  and  Mrs. 
W.  to  a  fine  public  garden,  and  to  see  some  views  of  the  place. 
The  country,  being  hilly,  in  descending  the  hills,  instead  of  a 
"  drag,"  one  servant  runs  in  front  and  pushes  against  the  tongue 
of  the  carriage.     Then  to  a  "  House  of  Industry"  under  charge 


THE   FIRE-WORSIIIPPERS.  135 

of  Dr.  B ,  wliere  all  the  little  vagrants  wlio  are  taken  up  are 

taught  useful  branches  of  work,  in  which  I  was  told  they  are 
verj  apt.  Saw  some  discharged  soldiers  about  going  to  Australia 
to  try  their  luck.  "We  then  drove  to  Dr.  B.'s,  who  had  a  few 
friends  to  dinner  to  meet  me,  and  I  spent  a  very  pleasant  evening. 
Mrs.  B.  is  very  pretty.  A  strong  recommendation  to  an  American 
who  is  "to  the  manner  born."  ^ 

Juhj  8lh. — This  morning  before  breakfast  went  with  Captain 
W.  to  the  stables  ;  a  handsome  sight,  —  hundreds  of  beautiful 
Arab  horses.  The  "  Fort ;"  and  this  afternoon  a  drive  with  Mrs. 
"W.  and  child  to  Malabar  Hill  and  Point,  one  of  the  pleasantest 
of  the  many  drives  here.  The  island  is  very  low  but  hilly ;  in 
many  places  along  the  shore  dykes  are  built  to  prevent  the  sea 
overflowing  the  road.  Saw  the  "Towers  of  Silence"  on  Mala- 
bar Hill,  where  the  Parsees,  "  fire- worshippers "  from  Persia, 
expose  their  dead.  They  are  lofty  square  towers  with  a  grating 
just  below  the  top  on  the  inside.  Here  the  body  is  exposed  until 
it  decomposes,  or  is  eaten  by  carrion  birds,  the  bones  falling 
through ;  when  the  place  is  filled  by  the  bones  it  is  closed  and 
another  built.  They  have  a  peculiar  hat,  which  they  were  com- 
pelled to  wear  at  first  as  a  badge  of  degradation,  and  now  have 
adopted  as  their  distinctive  mark.  They  are  of  very  light 
mulatto  color,  with  bright  dark  eyes ;  their  women  are  very  pretty. 

Eeturning,  we  passed  near  the  railway  which  has  been  con- 
structed to  run  to  Calcutta.  About  forty  miles  are  completed :  but 
I  think  it  is  a  great  mistake  to  make  it  so  solid,  as  if  it  were  an 
English  railroad,  where  the  distances  are  very  short,  and  heavy 
trains  hourly  passmg.  Here  they  will  have  but  few  and  light 
trains,  required  chiefly  for  produce,  which  is  now  brought  to 
market  from  the  interior  by  the  slow  conveyance  of  bullock- 
carts,  often  taking  weeks,  and  making  the  cost  of  transportation 
enormous:  for  except  on  the  main  arteries,  the  roads  of  the  coun- 
try are  very  bad. 

January  9lh. — Sunday.     Attended  church ;  the  weather  is  hot, 


136  FROi[   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

and  we  arc  all  wearing  the  thinnest  summer  clothes.  In  church 
long  rows  of  punkal IS  were  in  motion  during  the  entire  service, 
pulled  by  men  outside.  They  are  oblong  affairs,  varying  from 
six  to  twelve  feet  long,  by  two  to  four  feet  wide — a  framework 
covered  with  muslin  or  stamped  paper  swinging  on  hooks,  length- 
ways along  the  ceihng,  and  used  in  every  house  and  church  to 
keep  them  cool.  A  servant,  called  bearer,  though  the  title  of  each 
servant  is  different  in  eacb  presidency,  usually  stands  in  the 
corner  of  the  room  and  pulls  them.  This  evening  our  mission- 
ary acquaintance  of  the  steamer  dined  with  us. 

January  lOlh. — This  morning  we  (Captain,  Mrs.  W.  and  I,) 
were  all  off  long  before  sunrise  for  the  island  and  caves  of  Ele- 
phanta,  with  a  regular  "fit  out"  of  servants — for  no  one  in  India 
ever  moves  without  a  lot  of  them.  We  had  three,  besides  extra 
men  for  chairs,  table,  and  a  hamper  of  provisions.  The  sail  was 
delightful,  with  a  beautiful  view  in  the  early  morning  light, 
witli  every  tree  and  shrub  freshened  by  tbe  cool  nigbt  air  for  the 
scorching  heat  of  the  day.  On  shore,  we  soon  scrambled  up  the 
hill  to  the  caves.  They  have  been  excavated  in  a  hard  blackish. 
stone  like  volcanic  trap.  The  entrance  is  small,  the  ceiling, 
though,  twenty  feet  high,  appears  low  for  the  immense  size  of  the 
place.  The  walls  are  plain  ;  at  the  entrance  of  the  cave  stand 
four  massive  columns,  with  corresponding  ones  inside,  in  rows  of 
seven  each  formerly,  though  many  are  now  broken  or  fallen.  The 
tradition  is  the  Mahommedans  or  Portuguese  placed  cannon  at 
tbe  entrance,  and  blew  down  the  columns  and  figures  or  idols. 
They  form  a  fine  colonnade  from  the  sides  of  the  Temj^le,  whick 
is  about  one  hundred  feet  deep,  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  in 
width,  including  side  rooms  or  chapels,  with  altars,  apparently. 
At  the  end  of  the  Hall  or  Temple  is  an  immense  alto-relievo  of 
the  Hindoo  Trinity.  There  is  no  certain  mode  of  arriving  at  the 
antiquity  of  this  Temple :  but  as  near  as  they  can  tell  from  the 
cave  temples,  in  which  they  have  found  inscriptions,  it  is  about 
nine  hundred  years  old. 


ARRIVAL   AT  SURAT.  137 

January  11th. — I  have  found  a  head  servant,  or  butler  as  he  is 
termed  in  this  Presidency,  and  have  been  getting  up  my  "kit " 
in  the  bazaars.  This  evening,  with  Captain  and  Mrs.  W.  went 
to  a  dinner  party  at  ]\[r.  D ,  one  of  the  most  distin- 
guished barristers  here. 

January  11th. — This  evenmg  with  the  same  friends,  went  to  the 
Governor's  (Lord  Falkland's)  reception.  The  scene  was  brilliant 
from  the  number  of  officers,  mostly  with  decorations,  for  with  the 
numerous  wars,  every  man  has  had  a  chance  "  to  smell  powder  " 
and  distinguish  himself.  There  were  many  ladies,  a  few  pretty. 
From  climate  and  want  of  exercise,  the  ladies  are  said  to  fade 
very  quickly  here.  Captain  W.  introduced  me  to  many  officers, 
some  much  distinguished,  among  them  a  Colonel  Havelock,  with 
his  breast  covered  with  medals,* — very  affiible  and  looking  every 
inch  the  soldier.  There  were  several  in  the  brilliant,  though 
gaudy  imiform  of  the  Irregular  Cavalry — a  half  native,  half 
European  dress. 

January  ISih. — To-day  packing  up  for  "  a  run  "  to  Surat, 
Gogo,  etc.  Had  the  offer  from  several  acquaintances  of  their 
houses  and  servants  at  Surat,  but  Captain  W.  advises  me  to  go  to 
a  friend  of  his,  the  Judge ;  I  will  follow  his  advice.  Got  numbers 
of  letters  to  my  various  destinations. 

January  loth.  SuRAT. — Started  night  before  last,  and  last  night 
reached  the  bar  too  late  to  cross,  so  we  w^ere  pitched  about  all  night 

in  "  a  nasty  sea."     Arrived  here  at  Judge  F by  eight,  and 

in  the  usual  Indian  style,  the  first  the  host  knew  the  guest  was  at 
the  door  with  all  his  "  traps."  After  breakfast  he  sent  his  servant 
to  arrange  for  a  boat  to-morrow  to  visit  Gogo  and  the  temples. 
After  giving  me  quantities  of  Indian  books  and  introducing 
me  to  his  library  for  my  amusement  during  the  day,  he  excused 

*  The  same  who  has  since,  during  the  Indian  mutinies,  won  so  high  a  name, 
and  finally  died  at  the  "  post  of  duty." 


138  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

himself  until  "tiffin"  (lunch),  as  he  was  obliged  to  hold  "cutch- 
crrj  "  (native  court).  I  then  examined  the  boat,  which  was  not 
verj  prepossessing,  and  returned  to  the  library,  which  is  choice. 
Tiffined,  and  then  we  drove  to  see  the  tombs  of  the  early  Dutch 
and  English  settlers,  this  being  one  of  the  parts  of  India  where 
foreigners  first  settled.  In  driving  through  the  town  passed  the 
old  Portuguese  fort,  the  Dutch  and  English  factories  (magazines 
or  warehouses),  or  rather  their  "patched  up"  ruins. 

The  old  houses  we  passed  had  much  elaborate  carving,  though 
not  pleasing.  I  was  nearly  overwhelmed  by  the  bows,  for  Judge 
F.  is  treated  with  almost  regal  attention.  At  last  reached  the  tombs; 
they  must  have  been  fine  in  their  day,  though  now  fast  crum- 
bling ;  the  architecture  is  of  a  nameless  order,  it  is  so  varied : 
composite,  Hindoo,  Mahommedan,  Grecian,  and  original.  Then 
to  their  rivals  in  life  and  death,  the  English.  Passing  the  house 
of  a  wealthy  Parsee,  a  princely  establishment,  saw  on  each  gate- 
post the  wooden  figure  of  an  English  sentinel.  The  English 
tombs  are  as  varied  as  the  Dutch,  though  not  so  numerous.  Some 
of  the  large  ones  looked  like  castles  in  size  and  structure ;  others 
painted  bright  vermilion.  On  to  the  tombs  of  the  Nawaubs  of 
Surat,  descendants  of  the  Grand  Mogul  at  Delhi,  of  which  this 
was  a  tributary  formerly.  This  is  a  large  platform  of  stone  and 
plaster,  some  fifty  feet  square  and  four  high.  Here  are  two  or 
three  low  Moslem  tombs  of  the  late  rulers  and  their  families,  but 
neither  handsome  nor  imposing.  Went  around  the  outside  walls 
of  the  city  a  little  way  into  the  country.  Home,  and  dressed  for 
dinner.  Evisn  in  this  hot  climate  they  adhere  to  their  home  cos- 
tume of  a  full  evening  dress  for  dining.  That  and  sundry  other 
matters  discussed,  we  went  to  bed.  The  house  is  delight- 
fully situated  on  the  river ;  it  opens  on  a  piazza,  on  all  sides  of 
which  the  birds  and  squirrels  avail  themselves  to  the  fullest 
extent :  the  former  hopping  about  the  room  as  we  sit  at  table,  the 
latter  racing  round  the  room  making  their  familiar  chirp,  and 
attacking  every  loose  end  in  the  carpet  they  can  see.  Surat  was 
the  great  emporium  of  foreign  commerce  in  India,  when  Euro- 


THE   GULF   OF   CAMBAY.  139 

peans  discovered  the  passage  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
the  capital  of  a  populous,  commercial,  and  manufacturing  country, 
trading  with  Europe  and  western  Asia  through  the  Eed  Sea,  and 
Persian  Gulf.  Its  population  was  then  estimated  at  700,000. 
This  was  the  port  where  Mahommedans  embarked  on  their  pil- 
grimage to  Mecca.  Here  the  Dutch  first  established  large  factories. 
They  were  followed  by  the  East  India  Company,  -whose  factories 
were  the  largest  in  India.  The  prince  or  nabob  was  first  temporary 
deputy,  and  eventually  the  hereditary  deputy  of  the  Emperor  at 
Delhi.  In  1800  the  East  India  Company  agreed  to  pay  him  and 
his  heirs,  ao  annuity  of  $50,000,  on  condition  of  his  resigning 
the  government  with  all  its  privileges,  which  he  accepted,  and  it 
now  belongs  to  the  Company.  In  1662  Charles  II.,  by  his  marriage 
with  the  Infanta  Catherine  of  Portugal,  received  Bombay  as  part 
of  her  dowry,  and  that  soon  became  the  chief  seat  of  the  English 
factories  on  the  west  coast  of  India  in  the  place  of  Surat.  Bombay, 
being  on  an  island,  was  more  easily  defended ;  and  though  often 
attacked,  it  has  never  been  taken  since  first  occupied  by  the  English, 

Jan.  17th. — Gulf  of  Cambay. — ^Yesterday  and  to-day  we've 
been  tossing  about  this  wild  sea  in  a  small  boat ;  this  evening 
came  to  anchor  to  wait  the  change  of  tide,  in  the  middle  of  the 
gulf,  with  a  heavy  sea  and  this  crazy  rickety  open  boat.  The 
fools  anchoring  her  at  first  broadside  to  the  sea ;  and  such  a  jolly 
scene  of  confusion  as  we  presented  would  have  been  most 
amusing  to  an  uninterested  spectator,  but  in  more  senses  than  one 
it  was  miserable  to  me  ;  for  I  was  holding  on  with  both  hands,  to 
keep  from  being  rolled  on  to  the  floor,  or  pitched  out  of  the  boat, 
while  bottles  of  wine,  beer,  and  sauces,  with  preserved  meats  and 
soups,  were  dancing  "Pop  goes  the  weasel,"  or  some  lively 
jig  under  foot.  The  crockery  ware  jingled  and  crashed,  until  a 
total  demolition  of  my  entire  stock  was  threatened.  After  half 
an  hour  of  this  delightful  variety,  I  succeeded  in  getting  the  men 
to  change  the  position  of  the  boat  for  a  slightly  better  one,  where 
we  tossed  about  like  a  cork. 


140  FROJI   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

Jan.  IStJi. — GoGO. — Kan  across  the  Gulf  and  got  in  at  ten  this 
morning.  Four  officers,  supposing  ours  was  the  mail  boat,  came 
down.  Discovering  their  mistake,  they  invited  me  to  spend  the 
day  with  them  at  the  Bungalow.  They  were  Bombay  army 
officers  on  leave.  Sickness  was  the  plea,  though  they  seemed  to 
enjoy  a  fair  amount  of  health,  and  discussed  breakfast  and  beer 
with  remarkable  gusto ;  and  went  shooting  every  day  for  a  gentle 
"  constitutional."  Extending  their  invitation  to  dinner,  I  accepted 
and  we  "  clubbed  prog." 

Jan.  19ih. — Paulytanna. — Started  last  night  in  a  small  ox 
cart,  with  matting  cover,  open  at  both  ends,  no  springs,  and  a 
layer  of  hay  on  which  my  quilt,  coat,  and  self  were  spread; 
another  cart  contained  my  traps  and  servant.  This  morning  passed 
near  four  antelopes,  and  soon  after  five  more.  Unfortunately 
I  had  left  my  rifle  at  Bombay,  as  the  servant  said  there  was 
no  game  here.  Near  the  road  a  funn}^  little  temple,  and  at 
nine  came  in.  The  bungalow  "had  departed  this  life,"  but  the 
Eajah  found  me  quarters  in  the  second  story  of  a  new  building, 
ascended  by  a  ladder ;  his  elephant  was  my  opposite  neighbor. 
Saw  several  people  carrying  bows  and  arrows:  bows  of  reed,  with  a 
thin  shaving  of  reed  for  bow-string,  the  arrows  with  long  lance- 
like heads. 

I  had  ordered  a  palanquin,  but  none  coming,  went  out  to  look 
for  it,  and  found  it,  or  what  they  termed  one.  A  frame,  two  feet 
square,  with  cloth  seat,  hung  by  two  ropes  from  two  long  poles ; 
here  I  was  seated,  with  my  feet  lifted  as  high  as  my  head,  on  a 
band,  and  thus  trotted  along.  Our  road  lay  through  a  long 
avenue  of  pumelo  trees.  Passed  by  numerous  tanks  (artificial 
reservoirs),  in  reaching  the  mountain,  a  lofty  isolated  hill,  crested 
with  temples.  Their  first  progress  was  to  get  me  caught  in  a  rock, 
so  I  rolled  out,  and  they  seized  two  other  men,  and  on  up  we 
went,  passing  great  numbers  of  returning  devotees  of  both  sexes, 
the  women  balanced  on  two  poles,  like  myself;  along  the  ascent 
were    many  temples   and  tanks,  somewhat   pleasing.     At  last, 


HINDOO   TEMPLES.  141 

after  a  most  tedious  time,  in  wliicli  my  dignity  was  gratified  at 
the  expense  of  my  comfort,  we  reached  the  top,  where  is  a  most 
extensive  view.  On  entering  the  fortress-like  walls,  wandered 
over  not  less  than  five  acres,  completely  crowded  with  temples, 
no  other  term  will  express  it ;  for  every  step,  right  or  left, 
advance  or  recede,  you  step  into  another  temple.  All  of  dark 
sandstone,  elaborately  sculptured,  with  domes  or  towers,  and 
presenting  a  scene  as  curious  as  picturesque.  The  interiors  were 
generally  alike, — five  idols,  a  centre,  and  four  side  ones, — never 
more  than  two  on  the  same  level,  but  descending  in  pairs  (one  on 
each  side).  Along  some  parts  of  the  walls,  were  long  aisles,  with 
rows  of  these  altars  and  deities.  The  hundreds  of  passages  and 
steps,  ascending  and  descending,  of  these  various  temples,  form  a 
labyrinth.  There  are  quantities  of  small  tanks — frequent  ablu- 
tions being  one  of  the  virtues  of  the  Hindoos,  In  every  court, — 
clouds  of  paroquets,  doves,  and  peacocks,  luxuriating  after  their 
fashion, — while  a  dozen  lazy  fellows  were  lying  on  the  pavement 
basking  in  the  sun,  while  they  played  a  game  with  dice  and  men 
on  a  square  bit  of  cloth.  These  temples  were  erected  by  the 
Jahns,  a  sect  of,  or  division  from  the  Buddhists,  and  this  is  one 
of  their  head-quarters. 

January  20ih,  GoGO. — Starting  at  six  last  evening,  got  in  at 
ten.  In  walking  this  morning,  an  antelope  passed  not  a  hundred 
yards  off.  To-day  one  of  the  officers,  a  "  dabster  "  in  Soyer's 
art,  has  been  trying  his  hand  at  teaching  his  native  cook  to  make 
a  pati^  of  lobster — a  Boston  article  sent  out  hermetically  sealed, 
like  the  roast  beef,  soups,  etc.,  from  Piccadilly,  We  have  had 
quite  a  dinner  party  ourselves,  including  the  artiste  of  the  pate, 

a  Captain  J ,  and  a  Major  somebody  else.    At  the  "  wind 

up,     Captain  X ,  who  is  to  be  my  compagnon  de  voyage 

in  the  bunda  (passenger  or  mail)  boat  to  Surat  to-night. 

January  list,  Surat.— Sailed  last  evening,  with  two  more 
houses  (with  servants  always)  at  my  command,  offered  by  my 


142  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

late  officer  acquaintances  at  Gogo.  My  companion,  a  good  fellow, 
in  the  Guzcrat  Irregular  Cavalry,  now  on  his  way  to  Cairo  to 
meet  his  "  ladye-love,"  who  conies  out  from  England  to  marry 
him  (they  have  an  odd  rule  in  the  service,  originating  before  the 
days  of  steamers,  Suez  route,  and  rapid  transit).  A  man  may 
go  off  on  a  two  years'  leave,  but  nowhere  west  of  the  "  Cape  " 
(of  Good  Hope),  as  he  cannot  go  beyond  without  losing  his  "  ap- 
pointment," which  is  like  a  man's  profession,  business,  or  office. 
The  lady  has  been  out  once  before  as  far  as  Cairo,  but  unluckily 
for  both  parties  his  leave  of  absence  was  unexpectedly  cut  short 
by  an  order  for  "immediate  duty,"  carrying  him  far  into  the 
interior.     Got  in  this  morning. 

January  Tlnd^  SuRAT  Bar. — This  morning  Judge  F.  out 
shooting.  I  drove  out  to  see  the  tombs  again,  and  sketch  them. 
Afterwards  the  tombs  of  the  Mullahs.  They  are  the  head  of  a 
certain  sect  of  Mussulmen,  whose  head-quarters  are  here.  He 
exercises  absolute  sway  over  them,  and  is  immensely  rich.  The 
tombs  are  in  mausoleums,  a  large  court,  very  handsome  in  device. 
They  are  built  of  brick  or  stone,  stuccoed ;  on  each  coffin  were 
placed  fresh  flowers.  03"  at  one,  and  four  miles  below  Surat, 
inside  the  Bar,  got  aground,  where  we  have  been  all  day.  The 
river  scenery  is  flat.  On  the  table  lies  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin.  I 
am  told  it  has  a  run,  not  only  over  Europe  where  it  is  translated 
into  two  languages,  but  all  over  India. 

January  24:th,  Bombay. — ISTight  before  last  got  off;  a  pleasant 
sail,  and  at  midnight  in  Bombay  harbor.  All  last  night.  Par- 
sees,  Mussulmen,  and  Hindoos,  were  disembarking  themselves 
and  effects  with  tremendous  rout.     This  morning  to  Capt.  W.'s. 

January  25th. — This  morning  Captain  W.  had  a  (to  me  most 

welcome)  note,  from  Col.  B (a  friend  of  his,  and  detached  by 

Government  to  mount  the  cavalry,  as  one  of  the  best  judges  of 
horses  in  India),  with  an  Arab  horse  for  me  to  try.     So  after 


."krtcliPd  by  thp  Author.  Pee  page  123. 

IIAD.I   KKTrKXlN(;    FIMM    MKrCA.    DAMASCUS. 


A    MULTIPLICITY    OF    SERVANTS.  143 

breakfast,  adjourned  to  the  race-course,  where  he  i^erformed  to 
my  satisfaction,  and  now  I  am  the  owner  of  a  beautiful  Arab — 
"a  dapple  grey."  Thus  much  on  my  trip,  and  shall  soon  be 
through  my  equipment  at  the  bazaars,  and  off. 

January  26,  27. — Trying  the  horse,  and  shopping.  Captain  and 
Mrs.  W.  are  at  a  state  dinner  at  the  Governor's.  Horses  and  car- 
riages are  a  luxury  in  most  places,  but  here,  from  the  heat  of 
the  climate,  they  become  a  positive  necessity,  both  for  locomotion 
and  health.  TVith  carriages,  usually  two,  and  always  one  ser- 
vant besides  the  coachman,  they  ride  behind  on  the  box,  or  run 
ahead  to  clear  the  way,  or  in  going  down  hill  to  act  as  a  "  brake." 
The  extent  of  the  affected  heljDlessness  of  the  people,  added  to 
the  stringency  of  caste  which  confines  certain  work  to  certain 
castes,  is  perfectly  absurd.  In  this  house,  with  only  a  handsome 
income  from  the  office,  there  are  about  twenty  men  and  two 
women  servants,  and  the  family — a  man,  his  wife  and  child. 
Every  family  does  the  same.  As  a  bachelor,  I  could  not  live  with 
less  than  nine  or  ten.  In  a  large  house,  the  butler  must  have 
his  one  or  two  assistants,  often  more  ;  the  cook,  his  ;  at  the  door 
is  a  porter,  backed  by  from  two  to  half-a-dozen  others,  called 
peons.  A  hamal  to  make  beds,  sweep,  and  clean  lamps; 
another  to  bring  water ;  one  to  wash,  called  a  doby ;  a  tailor, 
usually  a  Portuguese  (from  Goa),  like  the  cook ;  then  in  the 
stable  the  coachman  and  five  grooms,  for  five  horses,  for  every 
horse  must  have  his  groom ;  and  if  you  do  not  buy  the  grass  or 
hay,  an  extra  man  for  each  horse  to  cut  it  for  him.  Fortunately 
the  wages  are  very  low,  and  they  find  themselves.  A  lady  told 
me  to-day  two  very  good  jokes  to  illustrate  the  way  servants 
and  tradespeople  manage  here.  Her  husband  happened  to  receive 
a  higher  appointment  a  few  years  since,  with  large  pay.  At  once 
everything  increased  in  price,  to  her  great  astonishment;  on 
applying  to  the  butler,  who  makes  all  the  purchases,  he  coolly 
replied — "Massa  have  much  higher  pay,  now  servants  ought 
to  have  same."     The  other  was  that  two  officers  and  their  fami- 


l-i-l  FRO^I   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

lies  were  staying  at  licr  liouse,  one  a  major,  the  other  a  captain. 
One  day  a  Borah  (the  people  who  carry  round  things,  like 
country  pedlars,)  called  and  sold  some  things  to  the  major's  wife, 
afterwards  to  the  captain's  wife,  in  another  room ;  comparing 
notes,  the  major's  wife  found  she  had  been  paying  much  higher 
prices.  The  man  returning  in  a  few  days,  they  accused  him  of  it, 
and  he  rej)lied  "  that  Madame  Saib  "  (lady)  meaning  the  major's 
wife,  "had  more  money,  her  husband  had  good  pa}',  while  the 
other  lady's  husband  was  only  a  captain,  and  had  poor  pay." 
These  are  fair  samples  of  the  way  the  tradespeople  and  servants 
arrange  matters,  so  that  poorly  paid  officials  can  thus,  in  many 
respects,  live  as  well  as  the  more  highly  paid  ones,  through  this 
kind  consideration  shown  them.  The  butlers  meet  once  a  week 
and  regulate  the  prices  at  which  they  are  to  let  their  masters  have 
things,  and  pocket  the  balance.  If  you  keep  a  dog,  you  must 
have  an  extra  man  to  take  care  of  him.  An  acquaintance  told  me 
that  he  had  seen  at  Calcutta  (where  they  are  more  lazy,  helpless, 
or  elegant,  whichever  you  choose,)  a  gentleman  dressing  with 
five  servants  assisting. 

In  making  out  my  complement  for  rapid  travelling  (twenty- 
five  miles  a  day,  when  they  must  all  ride),  my  retinue  con- 
sisted of  a  butler,  or  head  servant,  cook,  and  gorawalla  or  groom. 
My  butler  suggests  the  propriety  of  getting  an  assistant  for  the 
cook ;  but  I  respectfully  decline,  feeling  quite  sure  my  appetite 
while  travelling  wont  require  much  pampering,  and  that  the 
potage  and  piece  de  resistance  will  have  such  justice  done  them 
there  will  be  no  occasion  for  many  entremets,  and  when  I  stop  I 
must  trust  to  good  luck  and  my  host's  cuisine.  The  Parsees 
abound  in  this  part  of  India ;  Surat  and  Bombay  were  their  first 
landing-places  when  they  were  driven  out  of  Persia.  Although 
they  are  the  Jews  of  India,  they  are  often  liberal  in  charities. 
Sir  Jamesgee  Jejeebhoy  has  been  specially  so,  and  established  a 
medical  college.  It  was  for  his  liberality,  that  the  queen 
knighted  him.  One  of  the  sights  here  is  the  Arab  stables,  where 
are  hundreds  of  fine  horses,  brought  down  from  Bushire  on  the 


BUND  A   BOAT,  145 

Persian  Gulf.  They  are  almost  tlie  only  horses  used  here,  and 
certainly  the  only  good  ones.  They  bring  from  a  hundred  and 
fifty  to  fifteen  hundred  dollars,  according  to  size,  quality,  and 
speed ;  they  are  generally  small,  usually  not  over  fourteen  and 
a  half  hands,  and  certainly  not  of  the  sui^erior  ones,  but  they 
are  strong  and  close-ribbed.  Government  pays  two  hundred 
and  fifty  dollars  for  every  "  cavalry  mount,"  and  only  fourteen 
and  a  half  hands  at  that. 

The  police  here  are  admirable.  The  Sepoy  soldiers  are  fine- 
looking,  and  with  the  affected  swagger  of  the  English  (or  as 
they  are  called  here  to  distinguish  them  from  the  natives, 
European)  soldiers.  You  can  hardly  tell  them  apart  when  seen  at 
a  short  distance,  and  walking  from  you.  The  Lancers  beat  the 
Infantry  with  their  beautiful  light  blue  dress  and  jaunty  air. 
I  must  say  good-night,  the  mosquitos  are  rather  too  troublesome. 
A  few  nights  since  I  counted  two  hundred  and  forty-three  on  my 
mosquito  curtains,  and  for  the  first  few  days  after  my  arrival  my 
face  looked  as  if  I  was  just  recovering  from  the  varioloid.  At 
Bombay  there  are  several  missionaries,  among  them  Mr.  Allen, 
who  has  resided  in  the  place  for  twenty  years,  and  a  most  estimable 
person.  There  is  also  an  American  missionary  press  here. 
Thanks  to  our  Boston  ice  ships,  we  indulge  in  "creams"  and 
ice  water  almost  as  reasonably  as  at  home,  besides  Yankee  clocks, 
or  "  Sam  Slicks  "  as  they  are  generally  termed,  rocking-chairs,  a 
luxury  exclusively  American  in  its  origin,  preserved  lobsters,  and 
clams  in  hermetically  sealed  cans, 

January  29;A.— Buxda  Boat.— With  such  a  date  without 
explanation,  you  will  be  considerably  puzzled  to  find  me  by  the 
map.  Last  night,  or  rather  about  three  this  morning,  I  finished 
my  last  letter  to  you ;  you  know  I  come  rightly  by  my  love  for 

the  "  small  hours."     At  sunrise,  bidding   Captain  W and 

family  good-bye,  with  many  thanks  for  their  kindness  and  atten- 
tion, which  have  so  much  contributed  to  my  pleasure  here,  and 
in  the  trip  to  Surat,  besides  all  that  is  in  store  for  me  from  the 

10 


146  FROil   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

many  letters  he  has  given  me  to  friends  and  acquaintances  all 
over  India.  Some  of  them  of  highest  positions,  "Ecsidents," 
"  Members  of  Supreme  Council,"  and  the  Governors  of  Madras  and 
Ceylon,  besides  many  his  friends  here  have  given  me.  Started 
by  water  for  Basscin  and  Tannah.  The  "  dapple  grey  "  went  on 
by  land  some  hours  before.  ShakesiDcarc  speaks  of  a  "tide  in 
the  afiiiirs  of  men  that  leads  on  to  fortune,  etc."  I  had  wind  and 
tide,  yet  both  deserted  me,  and  I  am  at  anchor,  journalizing 
"  solus  "  in  my  cabin.  A  pretty  yacht  lies  at  anchor  near  me  ; 
nothing  breaks  the  stillness  of  the  scene  except  a  few  boats, 
gliding  with  the  tide  down  to  Bombay,  and  the  cheerful  songs 
of  the  oarsmen. 

January  ZOih,  BuxDA  BoAT. — Off  again  at  two  last  night ;  at 
four,  plumped  into  the  stone  bridge  connecting  Tannah  with  the 
main  land.  "We  lay  there  until  the  tide  had  lost  some  of  its 
force,  and  then  on  to  Bassein,  the  old  Portuguese  settlement, 
quite  missing  my  evening  reveille  of  "  All's  well ;"  my  midnight 
one  of  the  "  thump,  thump "  of  the  doolies,  and  at  daylight 
that  of  the  race-horses  on  the  "course."  Got  here  at  eight. 
It  has  a  picturesque  look  ;  the  old  walls  washed  by  the  waves, 
:and  from  the  interior  a  forest  of  fruit  and  other  trees,  vieing 
with  the  three  old  church  towers  in  height.  Eeaching  the  shore 
was  hailed  by  a  custom-house  officer  to  know  who  we  were. 
"  Ireland  Saib,"  the  response  of  butler,  or  "  Butler  Saib  "  as  the 
crew  dignify  him.  Now  Ireland  Saib  means  Mr.  Ireland,  but  in 
their  stupidity  of  character  carried  into  the  language,  they  put 
the  Mr.  last.  I  was  soon  borne  ashore  on  the  backs  of  two 
of  the  natives,  who,  catching  me  by  the  calves  of  my  legs,  gave 
me  the  difficult  task  of  balancing  the  rest  of  my  body  as  best  I 
could  on  their  shoulders,  while  I  was  very  apprehensive  of  falling 
backwards  into  the  water.  The  gates  were  studded  with  sharp 
spikes  to  prevent  elephants  from  knocking  them  in,  as  in  these 
countries  they  are  substituted  for  powder  and  ball  for  that  pur- 
pose.    Inside  a  dense  forest,  and  ruins  of  houses ;  some  few  of 


"  BHAKG."  147 

the  seven  or  eiglit  old  cliurclics  had  cloisters, — in  one  quite  per- 
fect. An  English  Vandal  is  erecting  a  sugar  refinery  in  one  of 
the  finest  churches,  over  the  graves  of  the  old  Fathers,  who,  if 
they  should  happen  to  wake  would  cross  themselves  and  mutter  a 
hasty  "  ave,"  fancying  the  "  Evil  One  "  had  come  to  claim  his  oivn. 
Saw  a  number  of  old  tombs,  one  1607.  In  the  midst  of  the 
churches,  a  Hindoo  temple  erected  by  the  Niwaub  of  Poona, 
after  he  had  starved  the  Portuguese  into  surrendering.  Beyond 
these,  the  tomb  of  the  wife  of  an  Indian  officer,  buried  far  away 
from  her  family  and  her  home.  From  the  sap  of  the  palm,  the 
natives  make  quantities  of  an  intoxicating  drink  called  "bhang." 
A  hole  is  made  in  the  tree  near  the  branches,  and  the  sap  passes 
along  a  leaf  gutter  into  an  earthen  pot  just  below.  Some  trees 
yield  four  and  five  gallons.  It  is  amusing  to  watch  the  men 
climbing  these  trees  with  all  their  arrangements ;  a  knife  in  their 
belt,  a  double  hook  on  the  back,  one  end  secured  to  the  girdle  or 
belt,  the  other  securing  the  earthen  pot ;  then  with  a  short  cord 
which  they  put  around  the  tree,  they  start,  catching  the  cord  in 
one  of  the  regular  and  circular  projections  of  the  tree,  left  every 
year  as  each  set  of  leaves  die  off.  They  pull  themselves  up 
about  two  feet  at  a  time,  using  these  projections  to  rest  their  feet 
on.  My  informant  here,  the  Yandal  Englishman  of  the  church, 
says  the  government  derives  an  income  of  £30,000  from  it.  He 
is  the  sole  resident  of  this  city,  if  I  may  except  the  huge  cobras, 
which  are  fearfully  numerous.  Much  sugar-cane  of  a  yery 
superior  quality  is  grown  here ;  but  the  natives  do  not  under- 
stand how  to  prepare  it,  and  therefore  lose  much  of  the  saccha- 
rine. Then  to  Tannah,  twenty  miles  distant.  The  sail  beautiful. 
The  views  a  combination  of  the  Hudson  near  Catskill,  "  Over- 
slaugh," and  Mohawk.  There  were  numerous  distant  ranges  of 
rugged  mountains  and  other  wild  scenery,  from  which  an  occa- 
sional Hindoo  temple  appeared. 

January  Blst,  Travellers'  Bungalow,  Tannah. — This  is  a 
military  station  near  the  water,  and  has  an  old  fort  situated  on  the 


148  FROM   WALL   STKEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

island  of  Salscttc.  Got  in  at  four  this  morning,  and  was  soon  esta- 
blished in  these  snug  quarters,  which  are  erected  by  the  govern- 
ment for  the  convenience  of  its  travelling  employes  and  their 
families,  as  there  are  very  few  hotels  in  any  part  of  India,  and  those 
generally  very  poor;  government  providing  a  "sweeper  "  or  low 
caste  man  who  brings  water,  cleans  the  place,  etc.,  while  your 
own  servants  must  do  the  cooking  and  you  provide  the  bed. 
Government  charges  a  rupee  (fifty  cents)  for  twenty-four  hours, 
and  half  a  rupee  for  a  less  time.  The  money  is  paid  to  the 
servant,  and  you  enter  your  name  and  amount  paid.  These 
often  form  convenient  registers  of  the  movements  of  one's 
friends. 

Just  returned  from  the  Eock  Temples,  of  Salsette,  a  ride  of 
eight  miles  through  an  Indian  path,  splendid  for  tigers  and 
cobras;  luckily  saw  neither.  I  especially  dread  the  latter,  as 
they  are  quite  as  venomous  as  the  rattlesnake,  and  are  so  perti- 
nacious in  their  desire  for  the  comforts  of  domestic  life,  they  are 
often  found  in  your  parlors,  bedrooms,  and  beds.  The  low 
open  houses  afford  them  admirable  opportunities  of  gratifying 
their  tastes.  No  Indian  (a  word  always  used  in  India  to  mean 
an  English  resident,  whether  civil,  military,  or  shopkeeper,  those 
belonging  to  the  home  regiments  being  termed  Queen's  officers  or 
men)  or  other  white  person  in  India  ever  goes  to  bed  without 
glancing  at  it  first,  and  a  night  light,  in  case  he  should  get  up, 
that  he  may  see  that  he  does  not  step  on  a  snake ;  always  giving 
their  boots  and  clothes  a  shake  before  putting  them  on.  The 
cobras  are  cowardly,  except  when  attacked,  and  then  they  sup- 
port themselves  on  about  one-third  of  their  length,  the  rest  being 
poised  in  the  air,  so  that  the  largest  ones,  seven  and  nine  feet 
long,  make  quite  a  respectable  appearance  with  five  and  six  feet 
poised  in  this  manner.  I  am  trying  to  journalize,  but  awful  hot 
work;  the  doors  and  windows  are  wide  open,  and  I  in  the 
thinnest  summer  clothes,  or  what  is  left  of  them,  with  the  coat, 
vest,  cravat,  and  boots  laid  aside,  and  sleeves  rolled  up,  in  the 
vain  hopes  of  being  cool.     The  temples  are  excavations  in  the 


INDIAN  SERVANTS.  ^  149 

exterior  side  of  a  semi-circular  ledge  of  rock.  First  a  number 
of  small  ones,  without  size  or  beauty,  with  a  few  figures  in 
relievo;  then  some  larger  ones  with  colossal  figures,  and  one 
with  thirty-one  columns  on  a  side,  and  stone  arches  springing 
from  the  tops  of  the  columns.  At  the  altar  end  of  some  temples 
are  dome-looking  affairs  in  stone,  as  if  the  dome  of  some  minia- 
ture Mahommedan  temple  had  been  transported  here.  An  old 
fellow  who  had  established  his  quarters  here  was  walking  around 
with  trident  like  a  terrestrial  Neptune.  In  a  small  tank  in  the 
rock,  saw  a  snake  asleep,  his  body  twined  around  a  stick  to  keep 
his  head  above  the  water.  I  struck  at  him,  and  the  old  Hindoo 
gave  a  half-and-half  howl  of  sorrow  and  anger — I  suppose 
dubbed  me  a  "  John  Bull,"  like  my  English  friends,  and  thought 
like  them  I  despised  their  cobra  gods. 

February  1st. — ^Pattnah  Bungalow. — Oh,  the  luxury  of 
Indian  servants,  if  you  are  obliged  to  have  a  lot  of  them.  In 
the  middle  of  last  night,  I  rose  to  get  a  glass  of  water,  and  walked 
to  the  door  for  a  breath  of  fresh  air  and  a  peep  at  the  full  moon, 
which  was  shining  brilliantly ;  for  be  it  known  you  rarely  fasten 
any  doors  or  windows  in  India — either  there  is  no  danger  of 
being  robbed,  or  else  useless  to  try  and  guard  against  it,  and 
then  pay  for  immunity.  The  chief  of  the  band  of  robbers  sticks 
his  spear  in  your  compound  (courtyard),  and  that  shows  the 
gang  that  you  are  under  tribute ;  and  as  their  chief  holds  himself 
responsible  for  your  safety,  jou  are  secure.  At  my  bungalow 
door  there  lay  my  butler  on  his  mat  across  the  entrance.  My 
step  woke  him;  his  first  words  were,  "Have  a  cup  of  tea, 
Massa?  can  get  it  ready  in  very  few  minutes."  Imagine  a  ser- 
vant in  any  civilized  country  in  the  world  asking  such  a  ques- 
tion at  such  an  hour !  Why,  he'd  meditate  suicide  first.  This 
morning  on  my  march  before  sunrise.  Just  out  of  the  town 
met  two  "smart-looking"  officers  in  their  "shell  jackets,"  taking 
a  ride  with  a  lady.  The  air  was  delightful,  and  the  mist  rising 
from  the  river.     The  birds  were  just  commencing  their  morning 


150   ^  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

carol.  The  only  other  sounds  that  broke  the  stillness  were  the 
dull  tread  of  my  horse,  or  now  and  then  the  creak  of  my  waggon 
wheels,  and  occasionally  a  shrill  neigh  from  my  Arab,  as  if,  in 
his  loneliness,  "  whistling  to  keep  his  courage  up," — and  well  he 
may,  with  two  thousand  and  odd  miles  before  him.  The  scene 
was  beautiful ;  a  dozen  different  ranges  of  rugged  mountains, 
with  jagged  peaks,  like  castles  in  the  distance,  with  an  occa- 
sional peep  at  the  river,  and  a  straggling  boat,  with  its  picturesque 
sail,  trying  in  vain  to  find  a  puff  of  air.  Near  us  mingled  fields 
and  forests,  with  groves  of  tamarinds,  mangoes,  and  stately  palms, 
with  numerous  other  denizens  of  these  lands,  with  names  and 
appearance  strange  to  my  Yankee  ears  and  eyes. 

In  an  hour  got  to  the  ferry,  and  crossed  to  the  mainland.  On 
the  way  saw  a  pair  of  noble  oxen  in  charge  of  a  sepoy  (native 
soldier).  The  cattle  here  have  a  peculiar  hump  on  the  shoul- 
der ;  when  salted  it  is  delicious.  Continued  on  to  a  military 
station  in  charge  of  three  antediluvian  sepoys.  As  the  hour- 
glass ran  out,  the  one  on  guard  rang  the  hour  on  a  stone  gong^ 
while  his  successor  doffed  his  Hindostanee  robes,  and  metamor- 
phosed himself  into  a  jaunty-looking  nonchalant  sepoy.  Near 
by,  stood  a  hospital,  on  the  other  side,  ofiicers'  houses.  I  "  bor- 
rowed the  shade"  of  a  species  of  veranda  that  ran  around  the 
house  for  my  ablutions  and  breakfast. 

At  four,  on  our  march  again.  To-day  felt  for  the  first  time 
what  is  termed  the  "hot  winds" — the  air  like  a  furnace.  Ah! 
ye  who  are  shivering  over  hot  coal  fires,  how  I'd  like  to  exchange 
some  of  this  heat  for  your  cold.  I'd  be  liberal  in  my  rates.  While 
breakfasting,  was  surprised  by  the  apparition  of  an  English  "  dog- 
cart" (now,  you  who  are  unsophisticated,  don't  fancy  some  canine 
contrivance  for  meditated  cruelty  to  animals,  but  a  box  on  two 
wheels  to  carry  dogs  to  the  hunting  ground, — a  raised  seat  in  front 
for  the  gentleman  to  preside  over  the  "  ribbons,"  and  a  seat  behind 
for  servant), — with  two  turbaned  Hindoos  on  the  box,  trotting 
merrily  along,  with  "Bombay  and  Agra  Mail"  on  the  side. 

At  eight  arrived.     Every  bungalow  has  one  or  two  bathing- 


SCENES  BY  THE   WAY.  151 

rooms,  not  witli  "hot  and  cold  batlis  always  ready,"  but  chat- 
ties— earthen  pots  of  water,  which  you  throw  over  you  with  a 
cup,  and  the  sloping  plaster  floor  conducts  it  to  a  hole  in  the 
corner;  here  you  can  splash  as  long  as  you  please.  I  never 
really  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  bathing  until  I  reached  this  hot 
climate. 

February  2d. — To-day  off  an  hour  and  a  half  before  sunrise. 
Breakfasted  at  a  bungalow  which  I  reached  in  about  five  hours. 
Eoad  very  dusty.  Passed  an  immense  drove  of  bullocks  carry- 
ing grain  in  sacks  on  their  backs  to  Bombay — I  counted  fifteen 
hundred,  and  missed  many.  My  Arab,  not  fancying  their  huge 
family  carts,  reared,  backed,  plunged,  and  kicked,  to  the  con- 
siderable risk  of  getting  a  horn  in  his  side  or  my  legs.  Passed 
another  drove  of  bullocks,  nearly  as  numerous,  going  in  the 
opposite  direction.  They  belong  to  a  special  race  of  people, 
whose  business  has  been,  for  generations,  to  wander  about  in 
this  style,  living  in  their  carts,  and  supplying  villages  and  camps 
with  cattle  and  grain.  They  are  peaceable,  though  they  carry 
long  swords,  heavy  spears,  guns,  bows  and  arrows.  The  Duke  of 
"Wellington,  conciliating  them,  found  them  very  useful  in  his 
campaigns. 

At  this  station  an  encampment  of  troops.  Some  of  the  officers 
at  the  bungalow — we  were  soon  acquainted,  breakfasting  and 
dining  together.  This  afternoon  had  a  gallop  of  ten  miles  to 
overtake  my  luggage.  Passed  a  large  quantity  of  cotton  going 
to  Bombay.  They  put  it  up  in  coarse  nets  of  rope.  To  cheat  in 
weight  they  foolishly  put  stones  and  dirt  in  the  centre.  Saw 
numbers  of  banyan  trees ;  the  suckers  drooping  from  the  branches 
taking  root,  completely  surround  the  parent  trees  with  an  inci- 
pient forest.  There  are  trees  like  a  leafless  walnut,  with  crimson 
flowers;  I  only  saw  one  within  my  reach,  and  that  my  horse 
made  me  break. 

February  3d — ^Yesterday  got  into  the  ghauts  (hills),  and  started 


152  from:  wat.l  street  to  cashmere. 

to-day  at  half-past  four,  got  to  the  bungalow  with  my  gora-walla 
(groom),  who  always  follows  on  foot,  and  had  a  nap  of  two  hours 
and  a  half  before  the  two  carts  and  servants  got  in.  Quite  a 
luxury  when  one  can't  retire  until  ten,  and  then  up  again  at 
half-past  three;  for  suspicious  the  servant  sometimes  neglected 
my  horse,  I  had  watched  the  grooming,  when,  I  expect,  horse 
and  man  wished  me  farther,  for  he  had  his  skin  nearly  rubbed 
off.  They  have  a  queer  "dodge"  here — they  manipulate  and 
rub  a  horse  with  hands,  back,  and  elbows,  after  the  manner  of  a 
Turkish  bath,  first  tying  his  head  and  fastening  on  heel  ropes — a 
long  rope  secured  at  one  end  to  a  peg  in  the  ground,  the  other  to 
two  short  ropes  each  fastened  to  a  hind  leg  at  the  fetlock.  This 
style  of  grooming  is  considered  very  beneficial,  though  not  agree- 
able to  the  animal,  if  one  may  judge  by  the  way  he  rolls  his  eyes. 
From  the  breakfast  bungalow  on  to  this  by  a  beautiful  ghaut. 

February  4^/i,  Nassack. — Started  at  h alf-past  three,  on  a  bacli  road 
and  new  bridge ;  passed  tents  of  engineers  engaged  in  road-making 
and  saw  the  foundation  of  a  "  settlement"  in  western  lingo.  The 
natives  always  live  in  villages,  and  in  laying  out  one  make  a  number 
of  raised  places  like  flower  beds  and  build  on  them.  By  the  wil- 
fulness or  stupidity  of  my  butler  we  were  brought  here  instead 
of  to  Trimbuc,  a  holy  Hindoo  place,  the  "  western  Juggernaut," 
and  butler  is  a  Mussulman,  or  as  near  one  as  they  ever  are  in  this 
country,  with  as  much  caste  as  a  Hindoo.  So  I've  ordered  a 
'  bullock  cart  to  be  here  at  two  in  the  morning  to  take  "  Ireland 
Sahib"  and  "  Butler  Sahib"  to  Trimbuc.  Met  here  a  gentleman 
in  a  cart  drawn  by  Coolies  (low  caste  natives),  from  Calcutta,  via 
Delhi  and  Benares,  to  Bombay  ;  been  on  the  road  since  the  first 
of  November.  He  had  met  Bayard  Taylor  travelling  night  and 
day  in  a  post-cart.  He  ought  to  find  correspondence  profitable 
as  it  costs  about  twenty-five  dollars  a  day  here,  and  yet  his 
descriptions  wonderfully  accurate  with  such  speed. 

Trimbuc,  Februanj  9ih. — A  horrid  night,  came  in  at  eight,  the 


THE    "MOUNTAIN"   PILGRIMAGE."  153 

only  lodging  the  privilege  of  a  shed,,  and  even  water  denied  me : 
but  I  raised  sucli  a  "  I'ow"  I  got  some.  AVhile  breakfast  was 
•  preparing,  I  wandered  into  one  of  the  temples,  and  was  just 
arranging  for  a  sketch,  when  I  was  startled  from  my  reveries  by 
a  furious  uproar,  and  found  I  was  polluting  the  sanctity  of  the 
place,  and  had  only  just  been  discovered.  But  I  had  time  to  see 
the  temple,  if  I  could  not  sketch  it.  The  sculpture  was  fine  and 
elaborate.  After  breakfast  I  left  with  a  guide  for  the  "Mountain 
of  Pilgrimage."  In  passing  out  I  saw  a  curious  figure  with  one  long 
leg  resting  on  the  body  of  a  monkey :  it  looked  for  all  the  world 
like  a  man  with  the  upper  part  of  his  body  enveloped  in  a  "  fool's- 
cap."  They  were  dashing  water  on  this  figure,  and  covering  it  with 
flowers.  Saw  a  tank  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  an  arcade 
with  beautifully  carved  columns  supporting  arches ;  this,  I  sup- 
pose, was  particularly  holy,  for  they  raised  an  outcry  as  I 
approached  it.  Then  a  bazaar  where  red  peppers  and  bracelets 
of  brass,  iron,  and  glass,  seemed  the  prevailing  merchandise. 

The  greater  part  of  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  is  by  granite 
steps.  I  counted  seven  hundred,  and  there  were  at  least  two 
hundred  more.  At  the  top,  a  small  lodge  with  a  female  idol, 
before  which  they  prostrated  themselves.  Its  visible  attractions 
a  quantity  of  red  paint,  white  eyes,  and  a  ring  in  her  nose.  After 
the  prostrations,  they  called  for  water,  which  an  old  Brahmin 
poured  over  them,  and  they  paid  a  fee  for  the  process.  Then 
they  betook  themselves  to  feeding  a  "  gang  of  monkeys,"  hopping, 
sliding,  scrambling,  and  tumbling  down  an  almost  perpendicular 
rock  three  hundred  feet  high.  On  landing  they  began  stufiing 
and  fighting.  The  very  young  ones  looked  fanny :  they  fasten 
themselves  to  their  mothers  with  their  fore  paws  to  her  neck,  and 
part  of  their  body  between  her  fore  legs,  and  their  hind  legs 
holding  on  to  her  sides, — you  scarcely  notice  them  at  first.  I  was 
amused  at  the  greeting  of  two  patriarch  monkeys,  walking  up  as 
gravely  as  human  beings,  embracing  each  other's  neck  with  a  hug 
and  then  off  to  feed.  I  displayed  my  magnificent  but  undeveloped 
artistic  genius  to  the  natives,  whom  I  ought  certainlj-  to  admire 


154  FEOM   WALL   STKEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

as  my  sketches  elicit  very  mucli  more  admiration  from  them  than 
they  ever  will  from  any  one  else.  To-day  has  been  a  great  fete 
here. 

February  Qtli^  Nassack. — Last  night  off  at  six,  and  at  ten  was 
waked  by  a  lurch  of  the  cart — "  a  spill" — and  a  blow  on  my  head. 
I  was  perfectly  enveloped  in  the  ruins,  with  head  down  and  heels 
up,  and  everything  on  top  of  me.  I  called  for  help,  but  could 
hear  nothing  but  fearful  groans,  so  I  picked  myself  up  the  best 
way  I  could,  and  when  the  butler  and  driver  found  I  was  not 
hurt,  they  discovered  it  had  been  all  a  mistake  about  their  own 
injuries.  As  soon  as  I  got  to  sleep,  my  driver  went  to  sleep,  and 
we  jogged  on  or  not  as  the  humor  seized  the  bullocks.  I  had 
a  letter  from  Capt.  W.  for  the  ofiicer  of  this  district,  but  he  not 
being  at  home  I  called  to  see  his  deputy,  "  pro  tem." — Dr.  K.,  a 
very  nice  person,  who  presented  me  to  his  wife  and  asked  me  to 
return  in  the  afternoon  and  dine. 

They  told  me  that  the  tree  I  spoke  of  with  the  red  flowers  was 
the  Pungra.  This  afternoon  rode  round  the  town ;  there  are 
many  handsome  temples  here,  and  one  is  beautiful.  Crossed  the 
river  on  an  odd  bridge,  with  wide  openings  between  the  large 
flat  stones  ;  and  I  stupidly  leaped  the  gaps  on  this  smooth  stone ; 
luckily,  my  horse  landed  me  safe  every  time,  or  I  should  have 
been  in  a  bad  fix,  and  left  to  drown  by  the  natives,  except  I 
might  be  taken  out  to  avoid  polluting  the  water.  Nassack,  next 
to  Trimbuc,  is  the  most  sacred  place  in  this  part  of  the  country  ; 
and  it  is  only  within  the  last  eight  years,  that  they  have  allowed 
beef  to  be  killed  here. 

Feh.  Ith^  Nadood. — My  stupid  servants  brought  me  twenty 
miles  out  of  my  way  to-day,  and  so  I  wandered  on  until  ten  this 
evening,  before  finding  any  place.  Here  is  a  half-way  village 
and  sort  of  temple  precinct.  The  people  were  not  dis|)0sed  to 
let  my  servants  in  the  gate,  but  I  rode  up  and  told  them  to  open 
it,  and  seeing  a  wide  veranda  filled  with  people,  the  most  com- 
modious place  here,  told  my  servants  to  bring  an  "  action  of  eject- 


AX   OBLIGING  POSTMASTER.        •  155 

ment,"  not  by  legal,  but  necessitous  and  muscular  process  if  neces- 
sary, while  I,  in  an  imaginary  robe  of  judicial  ermine,  with  the 
horse  and  "pig-skin" — for  "woolsack" — saw  that  justice  was 
done  to  one  party,  if  not  to  the  other.  And  now,  while  "Butler 
Sahib  "  and  cook  are  getting  dinner,  I  am  in  my  bed,  surrounded 
by  "musquito  bars,"  and  an  admiring  crowd  of  niggers  (as  they 
term  the  natives  here),  journalizing.  To-day  saw  them  making 
sugar,  crushing  the  stalk  or  cane  between  two  upright  rollers,  when 
the  juice  is  boiled  to  a  thick  paste  and  allowed  to  harden,  arriving 
at  the  consistence  of  wet  brown  sugar,  when  it  is  called  "  gowgray." 
This  evening  forded  the  Godavery^wr  times ;  it  is  now  very 
low,  but  deep  in  summer.  Passed  to-day  great  numbers  of  wild 
fig  trees,  reddened  by  a  small  fruit  looking  like  cherries,  which 
is  eaten  by  the  natives ;  also  quantities  of  ripe  prickly  pears. 

Feb.  8th. — I  am  finishing  this  under  a  dirty  little  shed.  I  find 
that  last  night  I  was  sleeping  in  an  old  temple  side  by  side, 
"cheek  by  jowl,"  with  old  Brahma  and  his  two  associates,  they 
keeping  watch,  as  if  we  had  been  the  best  of  friends  all  our  lives. 

Through  a  rich,  level  country.  Collected  a  lot  of  grain, 
wild  flowers,  and  tlieir  seeds,  some  in  full  bloom  for  my  herba- 
rium,— others  with  seeds  ripe.  So  as  my  men  are  a  long  ways 
ahead,  I  must  close  this  and  follow.  My  little  grey  stands  gazing 
and  wondering  at  what  I  am  doing,  while  his  gora-walla  lies  at 
his  feet,  far  away  in  the  "land  of  dreams."  The  little  birds  arc 
flitting  about,  sometimes  so  close  they  graze  my  head.  This 
morning  went  by  a  beautiful  temple ;  having  no  religious  preju- 
dices, I  sat  down  on  a  neighboring  god  to  sketch :  but  soon  found 
such  an  infinitude  of  detail,  I  gave  it  up. 

Feb.  9  th,  Bajapore. — This  morning  I  gave  my  letter  to  the 
postmaster  here,  to  post  for  Bombay,  and  as  probably  the  first 
letter  he  had  ever  sent,  insisted  most  strenuously  he  must  direct 
it ;  so  I  consented,  on  condition  he  put  it  on  the  back  of  the 
letter,  and  you  will  have  a  specimen  of  Mahratta. 


156  FKOM   WALL   STllEET   TO   CASILMERE. 

My  lodgings  last  night  were  at  Ropergaum,  a  former  palace  of 
the  Rajah's,  now  a  government  bungalow ;  a  famous  place,  with 
courts  and  galleries,  the  walls  and  ceilings  prettily  colored. 

In  my  journey  to-day,  passed  two  pretty  chapels  or  temples ; 
stopped  to  look  at  one  where  an  old  fellow  was  ringing  a  bell, 
manipulating  and  mumbling  in  real  Catholic  style ;  but,  on  hear- 
ing the  tread  of  my  horse,  the  " Old  Adam "  was  too  strong:  so 
he  gratified  his  curiosity,  and  gave  Brahma's  or  Siva's  (I  don't 
know  whether  he  was  praying  to  the  good,  or  propitiating  the  bad 
deity)  ears  a  respite  while  he  stared  at  me.  After  this  counted 
forty- one  antelopes,  seven  of  them  black  bucks,  crossing  the  road 
only  about  two  hundred  yards  ahead  of  me.  By  bad  luck  my 
rifle  was  at  the  bottom  of  the  cart.  I  am  now  lodged  in  a  Hindoo 
temple,  and  some  thirty  vagabonds  with  swords  congregating 
around  me  every  few  minutes,  using  as  a  pretext  to  come  nearer, 
a  desire  to  say  their  prayers  to  Brahma,  when  they  come  in  and 
ring  a  bell. 


O  5 


Feb.  Will,  Allora  or  Erala. — Got  here  at  nine  last  evening 
the  only  objects  of  interest  during  the  day,  twenty  antelopes.  This 
morning,  stopped  to  breakfast  in  a  large  temple,  but  the  devotees 
raising  an  objection,  and  not  being  proud,  I  took  possession  of  a 
small  one.  Saw  a  religious  procession,  and  a  squeaky  pipe  (like 
a  bagpipe),  making  such  sweet  music,  I  don't  think  any  but  a 
"Sandie"  could  have  told  the  difference.  Found  no  bungalow, 
and  not  liking  the  heavens  for  a  canopy,  I  suggested  the  propriety 
of  about  fifUj  people  giving  u^^  a  piazza  they  were  all  living 
under,  and  letting  me  have  it.  As  my  request,  uttered  in  a  loud 
tone  that  they  might  all  hear  in  case  any  were  deaf,  showed  no 
alternative,  they  "sloped"  and  I  "squatted."  The  proceeding 
was  cool,  but  you  know  I  have  rather  an  antipathy  to  strangers — 
my  vis-a-vis  was  the  tomb  of  some  great  man,  over  whom  they 
appear  to  be  having  "  a  wake,"  by  the  great "  Tom-tom  drum  "  and 
chorus,  as  they  madly  march  around  the  tomb,  shouting  Dome, 
Dome  (the  name  of  the  man) ;  so  you  can  imagine  my  felicity 


THE   ROCK  TEMPLES  AT  ELLORA.  157 

under  this  infernal  din,  not  thirty  feet  from  me.  I  am  in  quiet 
possession,  "barring"  this  "music  of  the  spheres,"  and  a  few 
lizards  Avho  are  peeping  into  my  carpet-bag. 

Feb.  lliA,  Ellora. — They  gave  old  Dome  another  "wake  "  this 
morning.  After  breakfast  to  the  "  caves,"  passing  a  beautiful 
temple  I  sketched,  and  a  fine  tank,  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
square,  and  thirty  feet  down  to  the  water.  Tlien  the  "  caves," 
commencing  in  inverse  order  with  the  Brahmin  and  working  up 
to  the  Bhuddist.  The  caves  are  high  up  a  lofty  hill-side,  and 
excavated  from  the  ledge  of  rock.  They  are  scattered  along  a 
distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  about  thirty-four  in  number.  Those 
of  the  early  Bhuddists  are  simple,  consisting  merely  of  veran- 
das and  cells  called  "  viharas."  Next  are  the  Chaitya.  Several 
are  fine,  and  much  larger  than  those  I  saw  at  Salsette.  One  has 
a  spacious  court,  seventy  feet  square,  and  a  fine  colonnade  on  the 
sides.  Inside  of  this,  handsome  columns  that  support  a  music 
gallery,  with  a  fine  nave,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  triple 
columns  supporting  the  side  walls,  from  which  spring  fine  arches 
that  extend  round  the  temple ;  at  the  extremity  of  this  temple, 
a  kind  of  dome,  in  front  of  which  Bhudda  sits  on  a  throne  with 
an  attendant  on  either  side,  and  flying  figures  over  his  head; 
this  is  called  the  "  Biswarkama." 

Then  comes  the  finest  thing  I've  ever  seen  in  the  way  of  a  tem- 
ple, called  the  "Kylas."  This  is  not  only  an  excavated  temple, 
but  the  whole  face  of  the  rock  has  been  removed,  except  what 
was  necessary  to  work  up  into,  or  sculpture  out  into,  a  magnifi- 
cent temple;  for  every  part  is  just  where  nature  put  it,  like  a 
piece  of  statuary.  This  has  a  court,  forty  feet  wide  on  every  side, 
and  the  rock  near  two  hundred  feet  perpendicular  height,  at  the 
deepest  excavation  down  to  the  court  yard.  The  court  is  about 
a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide  by  two  hundred  deep.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  cells  or  "  viharas."  The  temple,  a  succession  of 
chapels  and  verandas,  with  finely  sculptured  columns.  All 
around  the  exterior  most  elaborate  alto-relievos.     Two  elephants 


158  FROM    WAT.L   STREET   TO    CASIIMEllE. 

stand  in  the  court  yard ;  besides  in  various  parts,  sculpture  of  the 
most  revolting  description,  as  one  of  the  engines  brought  into 
the  contest  between  the  Brahmins  and  Bhuddists,  was  sensuality, 
and  pandering  to  the  passions,  as  the  Brahmins  did.  This 
temple  was  finished  by  the  Brahmins,  just  after  the  contest  was 
over.  There  arc  a  number  of  these  beautiful  temples.  Also 
several  temples  of  the  Jahn,  who  are  seeeders  from  the  Bhuddists. 
These  temples  are  fine,  and  all  have  cross-legged  figures  called 
"  Thiethankers." 

February  12th,  EozAT. — This  morning  getting  my  usual  bene- 
fit of  serenading,  which  T  have  night  and  morning,  I  set  off  again 
to  the  caves,  sketching ;  and  this  afternoon  followed  my  people 
to  Rozat,  which  is  about  a  mile  distant  on  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  where  I  found  my  bedstead  and  curtains,  with  table, 
etc.,  arranged  under  a  tree,  instead  of  one  of  the  many  Mus- 
sulmanic  tombs,  which  are  like  small  houses  for  size.  The 
bungalow  belonged  to  the  ofl&cers  in  the  Nizam's  service  (the 
European  contingent).  So  I  explored  a  tomb,  and  was  returning 
to  have  my  things  removed  to  it,  when  the  present  occupant  of 

the  bungalow,  Dr.  B ,  came  up ;  finding  I  was  a  traveller, 

with  true  Indian  hospitality  he  at  once  asked  me  to  be  his  guest, 
and  told  my  servant  to  take  my  things  to  the  bungalow,  and  to 
tell  his  people  to  put  them  in  one  of  the  rooms,  and  get  dinner 
for  me.  Learning  I  was  an  American,  he  shook  me  warmly  by  the 
hand,  saying  he  had  known  so  many  agreeable  countrymen  of 
mine  at  Canton,  in  the  last  war  with  China,  and  regretted  he 
had  not  known  I  was  below,  as  he  had  been  "  detailed  "  to  examine 
all  the  old  ruins  of  the  country,  and  was,  consequently,  "  well 
up"  in  cave  temple  matters,  and  could  have  given  me  much 
information.  So  he  gave  me  a  lecture,  and  in  the  bungalow 
books  on  the  subject,  as  the  next  day  he  had  to  return  to  Au- 
rungabad. 

February  IStli,  RozAT. — This  morning  Dr.  B,  (my  friend  of 


AURUNGABAD.  159 

last  evening)  started  for  Aurungabad,  leaving  me  in  possession 
of  the  bungalow,  ■with,  a  promise  to  be  his  guest  when  I  go  to 
Aurungabad,  and  he  is  to  send  me  an  order  I  wished  for  Dowlata- 
bad  fortress.  To-day  at  the  caves  again,  sketching.  Aurungzebe, 
the  last  of  the  Moguls,  is  buried  here,  beneath  a  handsome,  though 
modest  tomb,  at  his  special  desire,  to  show  the  world  the  end  of 
all  greatness,  pomp,  and  power,  instead  of  a  more  magnificent 
one,  like  those  of  his  predecessors.  He  died  at  Ahmednuggar, 
in  170G,  in  his  89th  year,  and  50th  of  his  long  and  eventful 
reign,  during  which  he  made  war  against  his  father,  deposing 
and  imprisoning  him,  putting  to  death  his  three  brothers  and  all 
their  sons,  and  eventually  some  of  his  own.  At  all  times  he  was 
most  unscrupulous  in  the  means  to  maintain  his  power.  The 
luxury  of  his  camp  was  carried  to  an  unheard  of  extent.  Every- 
thing that  could  contribute  to  luxury  in  Delhi  was  carried  with 
him  on  his  campaigns,  and  with  all  this,  his  own  habits  were  so 
simple,  they  were  actually  carried  to  austerity.  He  was  a  bigot, 
and  most  unpopular  with  the  Hindoos,  from  tearing  down  some 
of  their  temples,  and  using  the  materials  to  build  mosques,  par- 
ticularly at  Benares.  He  re-imposed  the  capitation  tax  on  the 
Hindoos,  and  forbid  the  public  celebration  of  their  festivals ;  nor 
would  he  employ  any  Hindoos  for  offices  of  trust. 

FehriLary  14:ih,  Aurungabad. — Off  here  on  the  arrival  of  my 
order  for  Dowlatabad  ("  The  Hill  of  God  ")  which  I  received  this 
morning.  Got  there  at  twelve.  While  I  sent  in  my  order, 
found  I  had  most  unconsciously  excited  the  ire  of  the  people  by 
seating  myself  on  the  altar  of  a  household  god,  while  I  ate  an 
orange,  and  was  wondering  what  they  were  making  such  a  "  fuss" 
about.  After  lunch,  I  rode  through  three  separate  walls  {two  of 
them  double)  in  the  space  of  half  a  mile ;  at  last  reached  the  foot 
of  this  wonderful  "  hill  fortress,"  which  I  wound  up  by  a  tunnel 
cut  in  the  rock,  crossing  a  famous  fosse,  forty  feet  wide,  filled 
with  water,  and  surrounding  the  fort  on  three  sides.  Eising  from 
this,  a  perpendicular  rocky  wall  of  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  in 


160         FRO.M  AVALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

lieiglit,  then  on  three  hundred  feet  of  upward  winding.  If  well 
fortified,  provisioned,  and  defended,  it  would  be  as  impregnable  as 
Gibraltar.  It  is  now  deserted  with  the  exception  of  a  nominal 
governor.  In  the  days  of  native  warfare  it  must  have  exhausted 
their  military  science  with  its  formidable  fortification.  It  presents  a 
singular  appearance,  descending  the  mountain  to  the  j)lain  coming 
from  Rozat.  A  square,  isolated  hill,  with  the  former  sloping 
sides  removed,  and  now  showing  only  a  scarped  rock  of  forty  to 
sixty  feet  on  all  sides,  and  the  whole  rising  to  a  point  in  the 
centre.  It  is  about  three  hundred  feet  high.  On  the  eastern 
side  of  the  fortress,  start  five  walls,  one  being  three  or  four  miles 
in  circuit.  The  other  four  are  inner,  and  double.  The  town  is 
of  very  ancient  date,  having  been  in  existence  at  the  time  of  Alex- 
ander, though  now  it  has  only  a  few  miserable  houses.  Thence, 
on  over  a  continuation  of  the  plain  (I  was  traversing  a  few  days 
since)  to  Anrungabad,  containing  a  few  trees,  and  so  effective  as 
a  screen,  that  they  entirely  obscure  the  view  of  the  city.  On  m}'' 
arrival  at  the  bungalow,  whither  I  found  my  people  had  pre- 
ceded me,  I  was  met  by  Dr.  B.,  who  came  running  across  from 
his  tent  as  I  dismounted,  with  the  last  newspaper,  and  an  invita- 
tion to  me  from  the  division  here,  for  the  mess  and  farewell 
dinner  to  their  General,  who  was  about  leaving  the  country,  and 
going  home  to  see  his  mother^  to  live,  after  a  continued  residence 
in  the  country  of  over  forty  years.  By  the  time  I  had  toileted, 
they  blew  the  bugle,  so  we  walked  over  to  the  mess-room,  where 
we  found  the  oflSicers  with  their  wives,  daughters,  or  sisters,  all 
assembled  or  arriving.  After  dinner,  by  way  of  a  "  digester  "  I 
suppose,  we  had  dancing,  waltzing,  and  polking,  when,  for  want 
of  better  performers,  I  assisted  "  on  the  light  fantastic  toe,"  for  the 
first  time  I  fancy  in  three  years.  Then  singing,  altogether  a 
very  pleasant  affair.  About  forty  were  present.  I  have  invita- 
tions to  dinner  for  every  day  while  I  am  here. 

Fdiruary  loth,  Aurungabad. — This  morning  Dr.  B.  and  I 
rode  to  the  tomb  of  the  wife  of  Aurungzebe,  one  of  the  last  of 


WINGED  LIONS,  161 

the  Mogul  emperors.  It  is  a  very  beautiful  work  in  white  mar- 
ble. Breakfasted  at  the  "mess,"  and  this  afternoon  took  a  ride, 
and  then  a  dinner  party  at  the  house  of  the  son-in-law  of  the 
General,  whom  I  met  here.  Dr.  O.,  my  host  of  this  evening, 
invited  me  to  accompany  him  in  about  ten  days,  on  a  "pig- 
sticking expedition"  (as  they  term  wild  boar  hunting  in  this 
country,  which  is  done  on  horseback,  the  hunter  armed  with  a 
short  stout  spear) ;  but  the  time  was  too  far  ahead,  so  I  had  to 
decline,  much  against  my  inclination. 

Fehruary  IQth.' — Same  amusements  to-day  as  yesterday — 
club,  breakfast,  riding.  This  evening  a  dinner  party  at  Cap- 
tain H.'s. 

Fehruary  Vlth. — Moved  this  morning  from  the  bungalow  to 
Dr.  B.'s  house,  which  he  has  just  taken,  having,  while  absent 
for  the  past  six  months  temple-and-ruin-exploring,  made  his 
tent  his  home.  After  breakfast  I  called  to  see  an  officer  who 
was  very  anxious  to  show  me  some  choice  guns  and  pistols,  of 
which  he  has  a  fine  collection.  My  German  "telegraph  rifle" 
and  "Colt's  revolver"  were  new  and  interesting  to  him.  We 
then  had  some  pistol  practice  with  gun  cotton.     The  adjutant 

of  the  regiment,  a  Lieutenant  F ,  came  in — he  is  a  lineal 

descendant  of  Oliver  Cromwell,  on  which  he  greatly  prides  him- 
self.    Evening  dined  at  the  mess. 

February  l^ih.—A  breakfast  party  to-day ;  and  then  Dr.  B. 
showed  me  drawings  of  some  "winged  lions"  he  had  discovered 
in  a  cave.  He  is  now  preparing  them  to  send  to  the  Asiatic 
Society  as  curiosities,  being  the  first  found  in  India.  This  even- 
ing I  shall  start  by  palanquin  for  the  Caves  of  Ajunta,  seventy 
miles  off.  Two  sets  of  bearers  went  on  last  night,  and  I  suppose 
are  on  the  ground  now. 

February   IM,   AJUNT.^,— Started   last    night  at  nine,   and 

11 


1G2  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

travellinsji;  all  nio;lit,  came  in  at  five  p.m.  The  motion  was  a 
constant  jar,  and  not  at  all  comfortable,  especiaJlj  to  my  head. 
Nothing  to  be  seen  or  heard  on  the  road,  except  the  unmelodious 
chant  of  my  bearers,  who  counted  thirteen  for  each  stage  of  twenty- 
four  miles,  marching  at  the  rate  of  four  an  hour.  The  palanquin 
is  an  oblong  box,  about  four  feet  high,  three  and  a  half  wide, 
and  seven  long ;  a  cushion  on  the  cane  bottom,  a  pillow,  and 
places  for  books,  provision,  etc.,  as  may  be  needful  for  the  jour- 
ney. I  was  rather  puzzled  how  to  get  in  the  first  time  my 
servant  brought  me  one.  But  not  liking  to  betray  my  igno- 
rance, I  looked  grave,  laid  my  hand  in  the  centre  of  the  cushion, 
and  with  a  hitch  and  a  jerk,  tumbled  myself  in,  as  if  I  was 
"up  to  snuff,"  and  that  was  my  ordinary  way  of  getting  in  a 
palanquin. 

Ajunta  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  as  is  every  town  I've  yet 
seen  in  India — all  constructed  for  defence,  but,  like  most  of  the 
others,  a  wreck  of  former  prosperity.  Captain  G.,  to  whom  I 
had  a  letter,  was  out  shooting — his  wife  in  England ;  so  the  ser- 
vant provided  me  with  quarters,  and  I  composed  myself  to  sleep 
in  the  veranda.  About  dark.  Captain  G.  returned,  and  I  was 
woke  up  by  hearing  some  one  knocking  about  and  blowing  up 
the  servants,  (as  he  afterwards  told  me  for  not  making  me  more 
comfortable).  He  appeared  glad  to  see  me,  and  proved  a  very 
good  fellow.  He  had  been  picketing  bullocks,  to  bait  a  tiger 
seen  in  the  neighborhood. 

February  20tJi,  Ajunta. — Before  daylight  on  a  pony  with 
three  servants  for  the  caves,  while  Captain  G.  and  a  lot  of  others 
went  off  to  look  for  traces  of  the  tiger — but  did  not  find  any. 
The  caves  are  situated  in  the  hollow  semicircle  of  a  mountain, 
half  way  up  its  side.  They  are  sixteen  in  number,  all  Bhuddist ; 
and  were  formerly  richly  painted,  this,  however,  has  mostly  dis- 
appeared— thanks  to  man  and  time — the  relics  of  them  Captain  G. 
is  copying.  He  had  one  large  copy  nearly  finished,  when  some 
natives,  in  the  absence  of  the  guard,  cut  it  out  of  the  frame, 


THE   CAVES  AT  AJUNTA.  163 

fancying,  from  its  strength,  it  would  "make  up  well"  into 
clothes.  They  were  afterwards  discovered,  and  consigned  to  the 
Nizam's  jail,  where  they  will  probably  spend  the  rest  of  their 
lives,  unless  released  by  the  English.  The  canvas  they  destroyed 
for  fear  of  detection.  Captain  G.  showed  me  some  exquisite 
pencil  copies.  There  are  four  Chaitya  caves,  one  beautiful,  and 
the  walls  with  fine  panels  of  sculpture.  In  one  part  a  colossal 
figure  reclining,  though  the  positions  of  some  figures  are  very  ludi- 
crous ;  some  holding  up  their  hands  quite  schoolboy-like,  others 
napping  or  reclining — many  in  a  sort  of  unjointed,  crosslegged 
position.  Bhudda  was  sitting  composedly  on  his  throne  in  front 
of  the  dome-like  afiair  that  always  adorns  the  rear  of  these  tem- 
ples. The  fine  fronts  and  screens  that  ornament  the  one  at 
Ellora,  are  here  wanting;  but  the  fagade  is  finely  sculptured. 
Many  of  the  earlier  temples  had  small  cells  for  the  priests — a 
sort  of  monastic  arrangement.  The  exterior  effect  of  these  tem- 
ples is  much  finer  than  that  at  Ellora.  I  only  got  two  small 
sketches ;  supposing  Captain  Gr.  was  to  join  me,  I  had  not  the 
assurance  to  produce  my  meagre  efforts  before  the  first  artist  of 
India.  On  returning  I  found  my  host  "getting  up  a  mail"  for 
England,  and  his  apothecary  (government  has  one  at  every 
station  to  do  small  practice)  going  out  for  a  chance-shot  at  the 
tiger.  The  elephant  leaves  him  in  a  tree,  the  men  surround  the 
jungle— (in  this  case  a  thick  patch  of  low  brush),  and  throw 
stones  in  to  frighten  the  tiger  while  the  elephant  beats  the  place. 
This  elephant  had  been  a  very  fine  one,  but  getting  hurt  by  a 
tiger  once,  now  "turns  tail."  An  acquaintance  told  me  he  was 
on  him  some  days  smce,  when  he  ran  into  the  woods,  nearly 
killing  the  mahout  (liis  postillion !),  that  he  heard  the  mahout's 
bones  crack,  and  saved  himself  by  jumping  off.  I  am  now 
three  hundred  and  thirty  miles  east  of  Bombay,  the  farthest  I 
shall  go  in  this  Presidency. 

Februarij  2lst,  ToKA.— Yesterday,  after  dinner  I  started  on  my 
return  and  reached  Aurungabad  at  ten.    Breakfasted,  and  with  a 


164:  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

good-bye  to  my  host  Dr.  B ,  off  again  at  twelve  after  my 

people,  who  started  last  night.  Arrived  here  at  midnight  with 
twelve  tedious  hours  in  the  saddle,  and,  with  luck,  shall  say 
bon  nuii  at  three  in  the  morning. 

February  22f7,  Emanpoore. — A  hot,  tedious  ride  often  hours 
to-day.  Added  some  seeds  and  grain  to  my  collection  for  you 
and  father.  All  day  over  the  plains;  at  sunset  reached  the 
ghauts  and  a  spring.  I  hardly  know  which  enjoyed  it  most,  the 
"  bonnie  grey  "  or  I.  I  have  never  suffered  so  much  from  heat 
or  thirst  in  my  Hfe  as  to-day.  At  the  bungalow,  a  family,  luckily 
a  snug  vacant  corner  left,  which  I  took. 

February  23c7,  Ahmednuggur. — Starting  early,  arrived  at 
nine  this  morning,  A  nice  place  and  military  station.  Four 
American  missionaries  are  here;  three  with  their  families,  the 
fourth  a  lady — Miss  Farrow.  It  is  said  that  some  years  ago,  when 
she  first  came,  she  had  "a  proposal"  from  the  "Eesident," — a  per- 
son most  respected,  good  family,  high  in  ofiice,  and  wealthy ;  but 
she  preferred  her  duty  to  wealth  and  rank.  I  called  on  one  of  the 
missionaries,  who  introduced  me  to  the  others,  and  invited  me  to 
return  and  spend  the  evening  with  them.  I  did,  and  found  there 
was  a  "prayer  meeting."  Of  the  number  present,  one  was  an 
English  officer,  apparently  a  regular  attendant.  The  missionaries 
told  me  their  labors  here  had  met  with  much  success,  having  one 
iiundred  and  fifteen  converts  besides  a  large  school!  They 
seemed  delighted  to  see  a  compatriot,  and  said  they  had  never 
known  of  but  one  other  who  had  been  here.  A  mile  from 
the  town  stands  a  massive  old  fort  with  wide  and  deep  fosse,  the 
walls  with  circular  buttresses  and  towers  like  "  Black  Anoiers." 

February  24:th,  Seroox. — Starting  early  stopped  at  eleven, 
when  I  divided  seven  hours  between  eating,  sleeping,  and  writ- 
ing letters.  This  morning  as  I  was  leaving  Ahmednuggur, 
was  passed  hj  a  regiment  of  artillery  from  Poonah.     In  march- 


AMATEUR  MEDICAL   PRACTICE,  165 

ing,  they  start  early  enough  to  accomplish,  their  twelve  miles  (a 
march)  by  sunrise.  Got  here  at  eleven  this  evening,  a  charm- 
ing ride.  A  jackal  and  fox  crossed  the  road.  Passed  several 
encampments  of  waggons  with  corn  for  Bombay.  This  even- 
ing I  had  occasion  to  practise  medicine  on  my  gora-walla.  I 
expect  with  my  extensive  practice,  I  shall  become  quite  skil- 
ful, and  on  my  return  be  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  lumina- 
ries of  the  profession.  Fortunately  my  practice  has  been  on  my 
servants  and  not  myself,  or  I  might  betray  a  want  of  confidence 
in  my  own  skill.  The  man  was  a  Hindoo,  and  my  butler  said 
would  not  take  the  medicine  out  of  any  of  my  things  ;  so  I  told 
him  to  bring  something  of  his  own.  He  brought  his  only  dish,  a 
copper  basin  about  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  and  eight  or  nine 
deep.  Then  he  must  have  some  water  to  mix  it ;  he  could  not 
touch  any  brought  for  me,  so,  sick  as  he  was,  he  must  go  to  the 
river,  nearly  a  mile  ofi",  and  then  would  have  to  pass  through  the 
camp  and  be  arrested  for  wandering  about  at  that  hour  of  the 
night,  I  gave  the  bungalow  Sepoy  some  coppers  to  accompany 
him  and  the  bullock  men,  for  the  poor  superstitious  fellows  were 
all  in  the  "  same  box,"  and  would  have  been  obliged  to  fast  till 
to-morrow,  or  otherwise  they  would  not  have  been  able  to  get 
water  to  cook  their  frugal  meal.  They  returned,  and  I  mixed 
and  administered  the  dose  of  salts — the  first  I  fancy  ever  given 
from  so  copious  a  vessel. 

February  2oth,  LooNEE  BUNGALOW. — In  leaving  at  day-break 
saw  the  Irregular  Cavalry  manoeuvring.  To-day  I  dried  some 
guava  seeds  for  my  collection.  The  fruit  is  of  a  rich  lemon  color, 
shaped  like  a  vergalieu'pear ;  the  odor  disagreeable,  but  flavor  tole- 
rably pleasant.  The  mangrove  trees  are  all  in  bloom ;  the  leaf  a 
bright  green,  shaped  like  the  lemon,  but  narrower ;  the  tree  large 
and  handsome,  not  unlike  a  fine  black  walnut.  The  flower  is 
white  and  small;  grows  in  clusters,  and  only  pretty  from  the 
number.  Saw  at  Ahmednuggur  a  beautiful  large  lilac  flower,  on 
what  appeared  to  be  a  fruit  tree,  but  could  not  learn  its  name. 


166  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASnMERE. 

The  country  I  have  lately  passed  through  is  almost  as  destitute 
of  trees  as  Spain,  Shortly  I  expect  to  do  my  travelling  in  the 
night,  and  rest  daytimes — the  way  they  always  manage  here  in 
the  warm  weather.  I  shall  dislike  it  most,  from  being  obhged  to 
keep  with  my  people,  and  thus  go  slower  and  be  longer  in  the 
saddle.  Bullocks  are  almost  the  only  animals  used  here  for 
burdens,  native  conveyance  or  travel ; — occasionally  a  country- 
man on  his  miserable  pony  passes.  The  bullocks  are  badly 
yoked  to  the  carts;  if  with  boxes  or  racks,  stupidly  balanced 
on  their  backs.  They  are  small,  strong  built,  active  animals, 
with  the  hind  quarters  drooping  like  a  grej'hound.  The  tongues 
of  the  carts  are  formed  of  two  pieces ;  starting  from  either  side 
of  the  axle-tree  and  converging  to  a  point,  thus  making  a  wide 
seat,  where  the  driver  sits — for  thej^  never  walk,  and  here  part 
of  the  load  is  placed. 

The  bullocks  are  guided  by  a  rope  that  runs  through  their 
nose,  assisted  by  a  pull  of  the  tail  in  the  opposite  direction! 
The  speed,  increased  by  the  whip,  though  usually  with  a  punch 
in  the  ribs  from  the  fingers,  as  they  sit  so  close  to  the  animal. 
They  are  yoked  wide  apart,  with  a  short  bar  or  bolt  on  either 
side  of  the  neck  from  the  yoke,  and  the  t^vo  ends  are  connected  by 
a  rope  passing  under  their  necks.  The  bolts  also  serve  to  push 
against  instead  of  a  bow  when  they  have  a  heavy  load.  The 
horns  of  the  cattle  take  the  most  curious  turns,  and  twist  upwards, 
downwards,  and  all  sorts  of  ways.  Those  of  the  domestic  buf- 
falo usually  turn  backward.  I've  seen  horns  three  feet  long. 
The  ploughs  are  huge  formidable  things,  the  beam  like  the  trunk 
of  a  tree.  The  only  grains  they  cultivate  are  wheat,  a  sort  of 
millet  such  as  I  sent  from  Egypt,  rice,  and  a  small  grain  they 
call  gram,  hard  and  pea-shaped.  Horses  are  fed  with  it.  It  is 
usually  ground,  and  considered  less  heating  and  more  strength- 
ening than  oats.  Owing  to  the  ridiculous  castes,  the  people  are 
all  obliged  to  cook  their  own  food,  and  near  a  large  encampment 
the  air,  at  morning  and  evening,  is  loaded  with  a  smoky  mist. 
In  my  little  establishment,  there  are  jifteen  meals  a  day  cooked ; 


Sketched  by  the  Author. 


OLD    i:.\r,l.ISIl    TOMH.   SI'KAT. 


POONAH.  167 

viz.  my  three,  butler  a  Mussulman,  his  two,  the  cook  a  Portu- 
guese, the  mussal  a  general  attendant,  of  another  caste,  the  gora- 
walla  (who  keeps  with  the  horse  wherever  he  goes,  a  sort  of 
individual  who  is  supposed  never  to  tire ;  for  instance,  he  is 
expected  to  take  care  of  his  horse  three  times  a  day,  and  the 
grooming,  no  sinecure  business,  besides  walking  from  twenty  to 
thirty-two  miles  per  diem)  he  is  another  caste  Hindoo ;  then  the 
two  bullock  drivers,  they  often  belong  to  different  castes. 
Luckily  they  all  feed  themselves,  and  I've  nothing  to  do  with 
the  matter.  The  Portuguese  are  usually  the  cooks  of  this  part 
of  India,  and  in  every  establishment  you  see  one  of  those  cada- 
verous, half  starved,  long-haired  objects.  From  the  scarcity  of 
wood,  cattle  excrement  is  used  for  fire,  and  I  constantly  see 
women  and  children  walking  miles  collecting  it  with  their  bas- 
kets on  their  heads,  for  they  never  pretend  to  caxTy  anything  in 
their  hands  that  can  possibly  rest  on  their  heads, 

Felruary  26lh,  PooNAH. — The  band  was  playing  when  I 
came  in,  as  when  I  arrived  at  Ahmednuggur.  Coming  in  ahead 
of  my  people  I  saw,  in  the  midst  of  half  naked,  sunburnt,  and 
turbaned  Hindoos  and  Mussulmen,  a  Highlander,  bare  legged, 
plumed,  and  plaided,  on  guard  (a  most  funny  looking  object  in 
this  red  hot  climate).  I  asked  him  where  the  bungalow  was ; 
he  pointed  to  the  road  and  said,  "  I  think  ahead ;  I  recollect 
seeins;  a  board  there  with  'turn  to  the  right'  on  it."  Another 
man  pointed  it  out  fifty  yards  from  where  I  stood,  unfortunately 
for  "Sandie's"  bright  directions. 

February  26/A,  Poonah. — The  officer  acquaintance  I  expected 
to  find  here,  is  ordered  elsew^here,  so  I've  wandered  through  the 
town.  There  are  three  European  and  three  or  four  native  regi- 
ments stationed  here,  this  being  the  head-quarters  of  the  Bom- 
bay army.  I've  seen  and  collected  many  flowers  for  my  herba- 
rium, some  shaped  similar  to  the  oleander,  but  white. 

Feb.  21  ill. — To  church  on  horseback — the  usual  way  here  for  gen- 
tlemen.    This  afternoon  most  of  the  regiments  were  under  arms. 


168  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHitERE. 

Februai-y  2Sth,  Karlee  Caves. — Just  before  starting  last 
night,  my  servant  said  a  gentleman  in  the  next  room  wished  to 
see  me.  An  American  physician  from  China  here  for  his  health. 
He  came  in  for  permission  to  accompany  me.  So  ofi"  we  started 
in  our  "  Seagrams," — very  long  cabs  on  two  wheels  drawn  by 
oxen.  Reached  here  at  daylight,  and  off  a  mile  and  a  half  for 
the  bungalow.  Found  an  artist  copying  the  sculpture  for  govern- 
ment. While  I  was  arranging  myself  for  a  sketch,  the  Doctor 
sat  looking  at  the  cave  with  his  elbows  on  his  knees  and  chin  in 
hand ;  at  last  turning  to  me  said,  "  What  do  you  think  it  would 
cost  to  get  up  such  a  thing  in  America?  "  The  temple  shows  the 
remains  of  a  court  and  fine  fagade,  somewhat  similar  to  the 
great  Chait3'a  caves  at  Salsette  and  Ajunta,  though  the  columns 
of  this  have  very  fine  capitals,  and  the  nave  the  largest  of  any  of 
this  style  of  temples.  There  are  wooden  arches,  and  in  the  rear 
a  plain  dome.  On  some  of  the  columns  are  very  ancient  inscrip- 
tions. I  took  an  irajDression  of  several  with  thick  dampened 
paper,  besides  sketches  of  the  temple.  Among  the  evening  visi- 
tors to  the  temple  are  tigers,  so  that  the  servants  are  obliged  to 
have  gates ;  also  boa  constrictors  and  monkeys  by  day  and  night. 
The  Doctor  and  I  parted  here,  he  for  Bombay  and  I  back  to 
Poonah  to  continue  my  rambles  through  India. 

March  1st,  Somew^here! — With  the  heavens  for  a  canopy, 
reached  Poonah  by  daylight ;  sent  off  my  people,  with  a  new  head 
to  my  cuisine.  For  several  days  past,  I  have  been  subjected  to  the 
skill,  science,  and  results  of  the  contending  aspirants  for  that 
office.  Now  have  one  whose  smihng  face  aJone  is  almost  a 
recommendation  after  the  late  ghostly  incumbent  of  the  office. 
At  four  I  started,  traversing  the  length  of  the  native  town,  which 
is  very  extensive,  with  a  population  of  100,000.  It  contains  some 
odd  temples.  The  "Peishwar  "  of  the  Mahrattas  lived  here :  he 
was  the  prime  minister.  The  Eajahs  for  several  generations 
were  confined  at  Sattara !  and  country  governed  by  the  Peishwar. 
Passed  the  celebrated  hill  fortress  of  "  Segur  "  (Lion's  Den)  about 


AN"  EARLY  DINNER.  169 

three  miles  from  the  town  on  a  high.  hilL  Looks  more  like  a 
French  chateau  than  a  formidable  fortress.  At  nine  saw  a  glim- 
mering light  under  a  tree,  found  all  my  people  here,  mj  bed 
made,  and  table  laid,  instead  of  going  on  to  the  bungalow  as 
directed.     "I  reckon  "  there  was  a  small  "  breeze." 

March  2nd,  Wye. — Started  my  men  off  long  before  three  a.m. 
Stopped  an  hour  for  breakfast ;  this  evening  up  a  steep,  slippery 
mountain,  so  dangerous  to  ascend  on  horseback,  I  was  obliged  to 
dismount,  for  the  first  time  in  all  my  wanderings,  and  then,  with 
two  men  leading  the  horse,  he  could  just  keep  his  feet.  And  the 
baggage  tattoes  (ponies)  helped  up  by  three  men  to  each.  At  one 
A.M.  they  came  to  a  stream,  and  plumping  my  bedstead  down, 
used  their  lungs  vociferously  to  wake  up  somebody,  and  find 
out  where  we  were.  I  suggested  we  should  cross  and  go  on ; 
an  hour  more  brought  us  to  the  town,  and  a  mile  through  it 
and  then  over  the  holy  Chrishna,  to  the  bungalow.  In  passing 
through  the  town,  it  seemed  as  if  a  telegraph  was  at  work.  Just 
as  we  turned  into  the  streets,  heard  the  distant  challenges  at  their 
opposite  ends,  for  in  every  town  and  village  there  are  watchmen 
at  night — relic  of  former  barbarity,  when  midnight  forays 
were  in  vogue.  Arriving  at  this  place,  had  to  turn  gorawalla 
myself,  make  a  halter  and  footropes  from  my  bed  cord,  and  a 
blanket  of  my  bed  cover.  After  I  had  done  the  needful  in  that 
way,  and  fed  my  horse,  the  gorawalla  who  had  got  lost,  crawled 
along  soon  followed  by  the  rest  of  the  retinue,  and  at  four  o^dock 
in  the  morning,  I  had  dinner !  Having  given  my  people  such  a 
good  lesson,  by  twenty -five  hours  of  steady  travel,  I  "  reckon  " 
they  will  not  stop  half  way  at  a  bungalow  again. 

March  3c?,  Mahableshwar.— My  people  off  again  in  good 
season,  notwithstanding  their  hard  work  yesterday.  I  stopped 
to  sketch  some  fine  temples.  Eeached  this  after  dark.  Made  a 
circuit  of  the  "  settlement "  to  find  a  bungalow  ;  not  being  suc- 
cessful, retraced  my  steps  after  the  people,  whom  I  met  jogging 


170  FROM   ^\'ALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

along  as  leisurely  "as  if  they  had  the  niglit  before  them,"  but- 
ler at  their  head  "hookah"  in  hand,  a  gurgling  kind  of  pipe 
made  of  a  cocoa-nut  shell,  from  its  choking  noise  at  every 
breath  my  perfect  abhorrence ;  but  I  might  as  well  think  of  "  But- 
ler Sahib's  "  turning  Christian  as  of  abridging  his  smoking  privi- 
leges ;  it  would  meet  with  the  same  success.  Then  had  another 
turn  around  the  place ;  at  last  found  an  empty  bungalow  with 
open  door ;  so  I  stood  guard  with  my  people  around,  while  but- 
ler looked  up  the  Sepoy  who  had  it  in  charge.  While  thus 
occupied,  up  came  two  palanquins  with  torch  bearers  and  a  host 
of  hamals  (palanquin  bearers)  and  in  a  few  minutes  more  I  found 
the  bungalow  was  private,  and  the  new  comers  the  lessees,  so 
"  made  tracks."  At  last  got  quarters  in  a  "  quasi "  place  with 
royal  name,  the  "  Victoria  Hotel,"  the  "  Boniface  "  a  Portuguese 
of  very  bull-dog  look.  I  have  had  a  good  dinner,  and  now 
will  judge  by  his  acts  and  not  looks. 

March  4dh. — This  morning  have  been  gunsmithing  with  my 
rifle  and  gun  which  are  "under  the  weather."  Nine  months  of 
the  year  everything  is  "  shrunk  to  a  shadow  "  from  the  heat — the 
other  three  with  a  corresponding  swell  from  the  constant  rain. 
This  afternoon  rode  to  "Elphinstone  Point,"  the  terminus  of  a 
wedge-shaped  ravine  of  great  grandeur  ;  the  view  superb.  You 
look  down  an  almost  perpendicular  descent  of  many  hundreds 
of  feet  into  a  dark  green  valley  where  five  large  rivers  rise,  all 
flowing  in  different  directions.  One,  the  Chrishna,  crossing 
India  and  emptying  into  the  Indian  Ocean.  These  rivers  you 
can  trace  for  miles  in  their  meandering  course  through  the  val- 
leys ;  beyond  is  range  upon  range  of  mountains,  and  on  a  very 
clear  day  the  ocean ;  now  a  mist  is  rising.  These  hills  form  the 
great  sanitarium  and  fashionable  resort  of  this  presidency  during 
the  hot  season  of  March,  April,  and  May :  after  that  follows  the 
rain ;  the  fall  prodigious ;  during  the  three  months  it  is 
860  inches!  In  England,  have  only  26  inches  in  the  year. 
From  this  to  the  source  of  the  Chrishna,  which  flows  into  a  tern- 


A  MONSTER  PLOUGH.  171 

pie  tank  from  the  sacred  (stone)  cow's  mouth.  It  was  dark 
when  I  reached  the  spot,  but  I  could  not  fail  finding  it,  and 
marched  into  the  temple  with  mj  guide.  The  custodian 
attempted  to  stop  me,  but  "I  was  bound"  to  get  a  drink  of  the 
water  with  a  shooting  cup  that  had  been  dipped  in  every  water 
of  note  since  leaving  Paris  in  1851.  As  I  did  not  wish  to  under- 
stand the  opposition  I  answered  in  English.  He,  to  make  ')ne 
understand  letter,  yelled  in  Hindostanee,  and  I  replying  in  Eng- 
lish, slowly  advancing  and  he  backing,  while  in  our  animated 
discussion  of  pros  and  cons,  one  or  both  stood  a  good  chance  of 
going  to  paradise,  or  the  other  place,  by  a  tumble  into  the  tank. 
We  at  last  reached  the  spot,  when  in  his  disgust  at  my  dulness 
of  comprehension  of  Hindostanee  and  his  brilliant  arguments, 
let  me  have  my  own  way,  and  a  drink.  To-day  have  pressed 
several  other  kinds  of  flowers,  besides  getting  many  seeds. 

March  6th,  Satara. — OS  by  daybreak,  winding  down  a  beau- 
tiful road  for  six  miles.  Passed  an  invalid  ofBicer  on  his  way  up ; 
poor  fellow,  he  looked  as  if  he  had  but  one  more  journey  before 
him.  Saw  many  beautiful  scarlet  flowers  four  inches  in  diameter 
with  deep  cups.  The  trees,  destitute  of  leaves,  bear  a  kind 
of  cotton  used  by  the  natives.  Stopped  at  a  bungalow  and 
breakfasted.  On  either  side  of  the  road,  mango  sprouts,  which  the 
natives  were  watering ;  set  out  by  order  of  government  and  in  a 
few  years  will  be  a  superb  avenue  of  sixteen  miles  in  length, 
the  road  putting  to  the  blush  most  of  those  even  in  England. 
Saw  many  teams  of  five  and  six  yoke  of  oxen  attached  to  one 
plough ;  the  yoke  ten  feet  in  length,  the  plough  a  tremendously 
heavy  forked  limb;  one  end  forming  the  beam,  another  the 
point,  coulter,  and  mould-board — the  third  the  handle.  On  the 
yokes  of  the  third  and  fifth  teams,  were  nearly  naked  boys,  who 
were  quite  composedly  wallopping  the  oxen,  while  a  third  stood 
on  the  learn  of  the  plough,  extending  the  same  kindness  to  the 
teams  within  his  reach.  The  ground  was  hard  baked.  Still 
they  ploughed  from  six  to  eight  inches  deep;  and  though  so 


172  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

rude  the  instrument,  and  without  a  particle  of  iron,  they  did  the 
work  very  well,  though  tediously  slow — about  half  an  acre  a 
day.  I  did  not  get  here  till  eight  o'clock,  much  to  my  annoy- 
ance; delayed  by  my  people,  besides  misinformed  as  to  the 
distance.  When  I  did  arrive,  found  there  was  a  small  dinner 
party,  and  sent  in  my  card  ;  the  resident  came  out  to  receive  me, 
and  put  me  in  charge  of  a  servant,  for  my  room  and  to  toilet. 
Luckily  I  had  put  up  an  evening  suit,  and  given  it  to  my  gora- 
walla  to  bring,  so  I  soon  made  my  appearance  at  the  table,  where 
I  was  introduced  to  the  guests,  and  had  a  pleasant  evening.     Mr. 

0 ,  the  "  resident,"  expecting  me  by  another  route  the  day 

before,  had  sent  out  an  escort  of  Siwars  (irregular  cavalry)  to 
meet  me. 

March  6tJi. — As  we  were  taking  a  daylight  walk  in  the  garden, 
the  servant  brought  a  note  saying  service  commenced  at  seven  I 
so  I  hurried  home,  and  he  into  his  palanquin  and  I  in  the  saddle, 
cet  off.  The  church  is  a  pretty,  neat  building,  like  all  I've  seen 
in  India.  This  afternoon  Mr.  O.  proposed  taking  me  to  see  the 
late  Eajah's  palace,  as  it  would  be  the  only  opportunity  he  would 
have  of  taking  me,  since  his  duties  compelled  his  return  to-mor- 
row "to  the  district"  (some  subordinate  j)lace  within  his  resi- 
dency), and  he  had  only  come  in  to  meet  me.  As  his  horses 
were  in  "  the  district "  he  sent  to  the  "  Eanee's  "  (widow  of  the 
late  Eajah),  who  has  "lots,"  to  borrow  one.  She  sent  us  a  most 
brilliant  yellow  phaeton.  The  palace  is  large,  and  for  a  native 
establishment,  very  handsome.  One,  a  mirror  room  with  glasses 
on  the  four  sides  and  ceiling  (more  refined  than  the  King  of 
Denmark,  who,  in  his  vulgar  taste,  has  the  floor  with  glass  also). 
In  another,  shone  the  famous  "  wag-nac"  (tiger's  claw),  a  terrible 
weapon  for  "a  rough  and  tumble  :"  a  piece  of  iron  with  a  hole 
on  the  back  for  the  middle  finger,  in  front  three  sharp  steel  claws 
three  inches  long  ;  this  is  shut  in  the  inside  of  the  hand.  Siwar- 
gee  was  a  rebellious  general ;  and  the  general  of  the  Mogul 
Emperor,  who  was  sent  against  him,  being  successful,  Siwargee 


^^  i!   lliiiiii  :^lllill:, li; 


THE  IRREGULAR  CAVALRY.  173 

proposed  a  treaty  in  wliicli  the  two  rival  generals,  each  accom- 
panied by  a  servant,  and  all  unarmed,  were  to  meet.  At  the 
opening  of  the  meeting  they  embraced,  when  Siwargee  inserted 
the  "  wag-nac  "  in  his  adversary's  side,  and  held  him  until  he 
could  "  finish "  him.  Destroying  him,  he  went  on  until  he 
established  the  famous  Mahratta  Empire,  which  has  given  the 
English  so  much  trouble  in  India  at  various  times.  His  suc- 
cessors, not  having  his  energy,  the  "  Peishwars  "  (prime  ministers) 
shut  them  up  for  several  generations,  and  governed  the  country 
themselves,  until  the  English  got  possession,  when  they  reinstated 
the  Eajah.  On  his  death  without  heirs,  five  years  ago,  it  reverted 
to  the  East  India  Company,  and  (this  part  Satara)  forms  one  of 
the  residencies,  with  the  comfortable  income  of  $30,000  a  year, 
the  third  appointment  in  this  Presidency.  Also  saw  "  Si  war- 
gee's"  famous  sword,  the  summer  gardens,  &;c. ;  then  Marlee,  an 
immensely  sacred  place,  where  a  small  river  empties  into  the 
Chrishna  (the  junctions  of  rivers  in  India  are  always  sacred),  and 
temples  erected  there.  Saw  several  trees  with  great  numbers  of 
flying  foxes  (a  sort  of  vampire  bat),  who  hang  from  the  branches 
by  their  feet,  quite  regardless  of  apoplexy.  Also  lots  of  monkeys. 
Several  monuments  where  bodies  had  been  burned — the  Ensrlish 
have  stopped  that  of  "  Sutteeism"  (the  widow  burning  herself), 
under  a  very  severe  penalty  against  all  concerned.  There  is 
almost  always  a  dead  body  burning  here. 

March  7tli. — This  morning  Mr.  0.  was  off  by  daylight  to  the 
"district,"  where  he  is  trying  some  high  native  officials  for  bribery. 
I  rode  out  to  see  the  irregular  cavalry  exercise.  They  are  con- 
sidered the  most  efficient  cavalry  in  India ;  the  others  have  a 
bad  habit  of  running  away  in  an  action,  and  leaving  the  infantry 
to  do  the  fighting ;  they  are  paid  twelve  dollars  and  a  half  a 
month,  with  which  they  buy  their  own  horses,  feed  them,  besides 
clothing  and  dressing  themselves,  using  the  native  saddle,  with 
mixed  European  and  native  dress,  with  native  arms.  I  visited 
the  American  missionaries  here,  who  were  amazed  to  see  an 


174  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

American  traveller.  Then  the  hill  fortress  back  of  the  town,  an 
almost  inaccessible  rock,  where  they  confined  the  Rajahs.  Here 
a  fisli  pond  with  myriads  of  fish  that  come  to  be  fed.  Counted 
five  or  six  other  hill  forts ;  the  country  swarms  with  them.  On 
my  return  found  a  soldier  waiting  with  a  note  from  Mr.  O.,  witli 
orders  to  all  the  heads  of  villages  on  my  route  for  days  ahead, 
to  furnish  what  I  wished,  beside  commands  for  an  escort  of 
siwars  to  accompany  as  a  guard,  and  a  request  to  know  if  there 
was  anytliing  more  he  could  do  for  me. 

March  8ih, — This  morning  went  to  visit  the  missionaries ;  saw 
Mr.  Wood ;  the  other,  Mr.  Everett,  had  gone  to  Mahableshwar. 
They  have  been  here  four  years,  and  met  with  great  success ; 
they  have  a  school  of  a  hundred  and  twenty  scholars.  They  have 
frequent  disputations  in  the  town,  w^hich  are  well  attended ;  many 
of  the  native  population  are  taking  an  interest  in  the  subject 
and  erecting  a  church.  They  also  said  there  was  a  great  excite- 
ment among  the  native  population  of  Bombay  in  religious 
matters,  and  much  anxiety  to  obtain  information  from  tbe 
missionaries.  As  far  as  I  have  seen  and  learnt,  the  largest  por- 
tion of  the  missionaries  in  this  country  and  the  east  generally, 
are  Americans.  These  last  are  from  the  "  Green  Mountains." 
To-day  have  bought  a  tent,  and  changed  my  gorawalla ;  the  ser- 
vants get  terribly  home-sick,  and  after  a  few  days'  travel  want 
to  return,  and  give  as  an  excuse  they  are  sick.  I  got  an 
additional  servant,  who  is  to  carry  the  torch  by  night,  and  march 
an  average  of  twenty-four  miles,  and  put  up  the  tent — all  for  the 
enormous  wages  of  three  dollars  a  month. 


""O" 


March  9th,  Poosay  Scolee. — My  first  journey  by  nigbt. 
Started  at  eleven,  and  "right  sorry"  to  leave  my  comfortable 
lodgings.  The  first  moving  object  I  saw,  was  a  snake  crossing 
the  road  in  great  haste.  My  train  consists  of  two  bullock  carts, 
drivers,  and  five  servants,  with  mounted  siwars.  Some  gentlemen 
had  killed  a  large  tiger  during  the  day ;    butler,  hearing  of  it 


KOONAPOORE.  175 

from  the  siwars,  rushed  to  me  in  great  alarm,  to  know  if  I  had 
my  revolver  with  me.  Kept  with  my  people  until  daylight, 
and  pushed  on  to  the  bungalow,  where  I  resigned  my  horse  to 
the  gorawalla,  and  went  to  bed.  I  had  been  obliged  to  walk 
half  the  night  to  keep  awake.  About  two,  my  people  arrived 
with  a  doleful  list  of  catastrophes  in  crockery  and  wine. 

March  10th,  KoONAPOORE.— Had  sundry  starts  last  night,  and 
one  run-away  by  a  pair  of  spirited  little  bullocks  about  three 
feet  high.     Wc  at  last  got  off  by  threats  of  applying  my  whip 
to  the  owners,  and  a  few  cuts  at  the  refractory  bullock  men.     As 
the  roads  are  very  bad,  it  is  the  custom  for  every  village  to  furnish 
four  guides  and  a  torch-bearer,  besides  a  yoke  of  oxen  ;  so  you 
may  imagine  it  was  no  trifle  at  midnight,  to  raise  up  four  fellows 
every  four  or  five  miles,  and  start  them  off  in  a  hurry — espe- 
cially as  they  had  such  an  elaborate  toilet  to  make.     I  set  the 
siwars  to  work  and  they  did  the  thing  most  effectually,  with  a 
free  distribution  of  the  foot-ropes  of  their  horses  on   all  who 
refused  to  be  pressed  into  the  service.     It  was  hard,  hut  tuhat  is 
a  poor  traveller  to  do? — ^they  wont  make  roads!     I   came  on 
ahead  with  gorawalla  and  siwar,  coming  in  here  about  eleven. 
Fortunately  I  had  given  the  gorawalla  a  pillow  to  bring,  and 
the  siwar  had  a  blanket ;  so  I  composed  myself  on  the  floor,  and 
slept  till  six,  when  the  head  man  of  the  village  arrived,  and 
offered  to  send  a  charpoi  (native  bedstead)  and  some  provisions, 
which  I  gladly  accepted  as  I  had  no  news  of  my  people.     He 
was  an  appointee  of  Mr.  O.'s,  and  was  one  of  those  I  had  a  letter  to. 
Among  other  things  told  me  he  was  brought  up  in  a  court  (really 
a  brother  professional!)  and  now  had  charge  of  two  hundred 
villages,  in  a  district  twenty  miles  square  !     The  people  in  this 
country  all  live  in  villages  or  towns.     The  dinner  consisted  of 
some  boiled  eggs,  peppery  crackers,  butter  on  a  palm  leaf,  and 
some  buffalo's  milk;  the  tea  a  failure,  his  supply  being  exhausted 
to  my  infinite  regret.     I  had  much  difficulty  in  obtaining  some 
water,  and  then  not  until  I  had  shown  my  drinking  cup,  and 


176  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

assured  tlicm  I  should  not  put  their  things  to  my  mouth.  The 
bats  are  having  a  jolly  time  here,  judging  from  the  style  they  are 
flying  over  my  head. 

March  11th,  JuTT. — Luckily  I  got  the  supplies  last  evening,  for 
my  people  did  not  arrive  until  two  hours  past  midnight,  and 
I  found  a  fast  of  twenty-four  hours  fully  long  enough.  Came 
in  this  morning  about  ten  miles.  My  host  of  last  evening  made 
me  pay  dear  for  my  magnificent  "  entertainment  for  man  and 
beast."  This  morning  he  made  me  a  visit,  and  sent  for  his  two 
watches  to  set  by  mine.  Last  night,  the  first  intelligence  of  the 
arrival  of  my  people  was,  "  Massa  have  cup  tea — all  ready,"  and 
rousing  up,  and  looking  round,  there  it  was — the  table  spread, 
and  in  another  place  my  bed  ready  to  lie  down  again  at  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  faithful  creature,  though  he  had 
fasted  nearly  thirty-six  hours,  and  I  was  asleep,  had  never 
stopped  to  get  his  own  dinner,  but  at  once  went  to  work  to  get 
my  tea  and  make  me  comfortable. 

Our  accustomed  "  row  "  about  distance  to  be  done ;  the  people 
(villagers)  desiring  to  go  twelve,  and  I  twenty-four  miles  a  day, 
for  they  are  so  wedded  to  customs,  a  thousand  years  old,  they 
would  almost  as  soon  die  as  change,  and  the  English  have,  singu- 
larly, fallen  into  most  of  their  usages.  Military  marches  have 
been  from  time  immemorial  about  twelve  miles  a  day,  and  so, 
with  a  military  precedent,  they  insist  upon  keeping  that  rate 
still. 

Soon  after  starting,  Mahomet,  "alias"  butler,  came  to  me  with 
a  most  sorrowful  face,  and  complained — '•  these  nasty  people  have 
lost  my  hubble-bubble  "  (the  gurgling  pipe  I  abhor  so  much). 
I  fancy  in  my  joy  at  getting  rid  of  the  nuisance,  I  did  not  look 
as  sympathetic  as  I  might  have  done.  Been  napping  on  the 
bed  for  two  hours  waiting  for  the  people  to  make  their  appear- 
ance. 

I  have  adopted  the  plan  of  having  my  bed  carried  by  two 
Coolies  who  keep  up  with  my  horse,  and  thus  I  have  a  place  to 


THE   GREAT  MOSQUE   OF   IBEAHIM  ADIL   SHAH.  177 

sleep  until  tlic  retinue  arrive.  The  charge  for  the  two  men,  is 
three  cents  for  every  two  miles,  providing  me  at  each  of  these 
stages  with  new  men — cheap  luxury !  At  last  my  butler  has 
arrived.  I  asked  him  where  the  people  were,  he  replied,  "  they 
coming,  only  little  great  ways,  come  more." 

All  the  evening  my  bullock  men  have  been  salaaming  "But- 
ler Sahib  "  with  profound  respect,  to  get  him  to  intercede  for 
short  journeys,  which  I  spoilt  by  the  order  to  start.  Hereafter 
my  retinue  is  to  be  increased  by  the  addition  of  a  "  Peon  "  or 
officer  to  find  what  I  want  on  the  road. 

March  12th. — Last  night  passed  the  tent  of  some  officers  ;  and 
this  morning  we  all  got  lost  and  not  finding  any  trees  as  shelter 
for  the  tent,  took  up  with  a  shed,  where  I  have  had  an  audience 
of  twenty  or  thirty  "  ragamuffins  "  all  day. 

March  13th,  Takota. — Saw  some  fine  temples  this  morning 
at  the  junction  of  a  small  stream  with  the  Chrishna.  I  have 
been  reposing  under  one  end  of  a  shed.  At  the  other  a  Sepoy 
is  enjoying  the  same  luxury. 

March  14i^,  Beejapore. — Arrived  at  seven  this  morning ;  the 
approach  is  ornamented  by  Mahommedan  tombs  and  temples, 
some  very  handsome.  The  city  presents  a  striking  appearance 
on  approaching ;  a  mile  before  reaching  it,  a  beautiful  mosque, 
and  tomb  of  Ibrahim  Adil  Shah  II.,  built  as  a  mausoleum  for 
himself,  wife,  and  children,  where  I  stopped  for  a  glimpse.  The 
city  has  a  lofty  wall  and  moat.  Entering  by  one  of  its  seven 
gates,  I  wandered  on  for  half  a  mile,  through  scattered  ruins, 
only  relieved  occasionally  by  some  stately  tomb ;  then  the  dou- 
ble walls  of  the  citadel.  Some  men  were  fishing  with  nets  in  the 
broad  deep  moat.     Saw  some  tents,  and  two  gentlemen  riding. 

The  men  took  me  to  the  Great  Mosque,  but  modesty  would 
not  allow  me  to  be  "the  observed  of  all  observers"  to  every 
hypocritic  vagabond,  who  chose  to  indulge  in  a  prayerful  fit  to 

12 


178  FROM   WALL  STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

gratify  liis  curiosity  in  gazing  at  me.  So  I  declined,  when  they 
took  me  to  a  snug  little  mosque,  attached  to  the  great  tomb  of 
Mohammed  Shah.  This  magnificent  tomb  has  a  dome  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  diameter,  being  the  second  or  third 
in  the  world.  While  waiting  for  my  people,  clambered  up  and 
had  a  fine  view  of  the  country  and  the  city,  where  reigned  a 
most  brilliant  d^masty  for  two  hundred  years,  until  destroyed  by 
Aurungzebe,  the  Mogul  Emperor.  It  has  now  but  a  few  mud 
huts  for  the  living ;  but  its  monuments  of  the  dead  surpass  those 
of  every  city  in  India,  except  Delhi  and  Agra;  fortifications, 
palaces,  tombs,  mosques,  with  hundreds  of  wells,  bowlies,  and 
tanks.  The  dome  has  a  fine  echo,  though  it  is  injured  by  a 
crack.  My  sejjoys  and  other  servants,  just  at  the  moment  I  was 
trying  the  echo,  were  suddenly  seized  with  most  painful  asth- 
matic affections,  and  gave  such  a  volley  of  coughs  and  wheezes, 
Pve  hardly  got  the  echo  out  of  my  head  yet.  The  tomb  was 
erected  by  one  of  the  last  kings,  about  two  hundred  years  ago, 
•and  took  forty-two  years  in  building.  It  is  square,  with 
octagonal  towers  at  the  corners,  and  each  with  seven  stories  of 
small  windows,  and  the  whole  surmounted  by  a  dome.  It  is 
situated  on  an  immensely  large  terrace.  The  tomb  has  unbroken 
'Sides,  except  the  three  slightly  projecting  arches  in  the  front  and 
sides.  The  base  around  the  interior  of  the  tomb  is  of  basalt ; 
the  walls  plain,  and  the  whole  surmounted  by  a  dome  too  large  for 
the  building,  and  rivalling  St.  Paul's  in  London  for  size;  the 
interior  is  an  unbroken  space,  save  the  platform  in  the  centre, 
where  lay  the  remains  of  Mohammed  Shah,  his  wife,  and  his 
favorite  dancing  girl ! 

As  my  servants  were  arriving  and  civilizing  my  tomb  domicil, 
I  set  off  to  the  Post-office  at  the  other  side  of  the  city,  where  I 
found  one  package  that  in  its  wanderings  after  my  erratic  steps 
had  acquired  about  as  much  writing  on  the  outside  in  re-directions 
as  inside  in  news.  I  had  just  returned  when  the  postman  came 
after  me  with  another  he  had  mislaid,  which  was  most  welcome, 
containing  nine  letters  of  introduction  to  all  parts  of  India,  from 


A   VISIT   FROM    A   HYEXA.  179 

a  friend  at  Bombay.  As  I  finislied  my  letters,  I  was  called  out  to 
look  at  the  tent  that  had  been  put  up,  and  just  as  I  was  returning 
in  a  very  slight  deshabille,  up  galloped  the  two  officers  I  had 
met  coming  in.  My  rig,  or  rather  unrig,  was  bad  enough  to 
receive  company  in,  but  my  stock  of  furniture  worse  yet,  for 
reducing  the  kit  to  poverty  limits,  my  chairs,  divans,  and  sofas 
were  represented  by  a  poor  camp  stool,  which  one  took  while 
the  other  and  I  divided  the  bed,  which  being  light  for  travelling, 
creaked  and  groaned  under  his  goodly  proportions  till  I  thought 
we  would  both  be  down.  They  asked  me  to  put  on  my  things 
and  go  and  dine  with  them,  but  I  dechned,  and  am  to  breakfast  at 
their  tomb  to-morrow. 

This  evening,  in  the  midst  of  my  letter- writing,  while  seated 
in  the  back  part  of  this  huge  open  tomb,  which  is  thickly  sup- 
ported b}^  huge  columns — a  disconsolate  widower  has  hedged 
himself  and  his  grief  off  in  one  corner — I  heard  two  of  the  most 
unearthly  squeals,  apparently  from  the  very  spot  where  my  ser- 
vants lay  asleep,  though  not  twenty -five  feet  from  where  I  sat. 
My  people  sprung  up  half  frightened  out  of  their  wits.  I  shouted 
and  clattered  my  cane — the  hyena  "  sloped."  He  had  made  a 
mistake — my  inconsolable  neighbor  keeps  a  small  dog.  The 
hyenas  prowl  around  houses  and  with  this  squeal  attract  the  dogs, 
who  are  nabbed  instanter, 

March  loth. — Off  this  morning  before  dayhgat.  As  I  wished 
my  horse  to  rest,  I  had  taken  a  miserable  tattoo,  with  back  like  the 
sharp  edge  of  a  rail,  for  guide  a  "  Moonshee,"  a  sort  of  trans- 
lator, copyist,  and  generally  useful  native  scholar.  Our  first  stop 
was  at  the  Meetrie-Mahal,  a  small  square  building  with  veranda 
and  portico  carved  in  beautiful  and  elaborate  work;  I've  not 
seen  anything  thus  far  in  the  East  so  beautiful.  The  material  is 
a  species  of  clay-stone,  susceptible  of  very  high  pohsh.  The  tra- 
dition is,  it  was  built  by  a  "  sweeper"  (the  lowest  caste).  One 
of  the  early  kings  being  fatally  sick,  consulted  an  astrologer,  who 
told  him  that  on  a  certain  morning  he  must  go  out  very  early,  and 


180  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

give  to  the  first  person  lie  met  a  large  sum  of  money,  meaning 
to  be  tlie  recipient  himself.  But  the  king  rising  earlier  than 
usual  sallied  out,  and  happened  to  meet  the  sweeper  of  the 
palace,  so  accordingly  gave  him  the  money,  and  he  built  the 
beautiful  structure  we  have  just  seen. 

At  the  fortifications  saw  the  great  gun  cast  by  a  Turk,  at  the 
order  of  Aurungzebe,  to  commemorate  his  victory  over  these 
Beejapore  sovereigns.  It  is  fifteen  feet  long  and  five  in  diameter 
at  the  muzzle.  It  is  made  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  brass  composition. 
The  muzzle  represents  some  monster  making  a  mouthful  of  tivo 
elephants,  who  are  quietly  standing  side  by  side  in  his  mouth. 
The  bore  is  so  large,  that  when  I  sat  in  it,  the  upper  part  of  the 
mouth  came  to  my  chin,  and  by  computation  they  say  it  would 
require  a  ball  of  2500  pounds.  It  was  discharged  when  first 
finished,  but  the  jar  overthrew  so  many  houses,  and  caused  such 
an  alarm,  a  repetition  was  forbidden.  In  1823  the  Rajah  of  Sat- 
tara  had  it  fii'ed  ofi"  with  eighty  pounds  of  powder  ;  they  have 
one  other  gun  among  the  curiosities  30  feet  long,  and  made  of 
bars  of  iron  bound  by  rings  welded  togther. 

Went  to  the  tank,  built  by  one  of  the  queens ;  it  is  a  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  square  and  thirty  deep.  It  is  of  grey  basalt.  Climbed 
to  the  summit  of  a  tower  eighty  feet  high,  with  a  winding  stairs 
on  the  outside — erected  by  one  of  the  kings  to  perpetuate  his 
name. 

Then  the  Taj-Bowree,  another  large  tank  Or  reservoir,  built  by 
a  wealthy  noble ;  this  is  about  300  feet  square  and  fifty  feet  deep, 
also  of  grey  basalt  and  quite  handsome  with  columns  and  arches. 
Saw  on  the  way  to  the  citadel,  a  lofty  tower  formerly  seven  sto- 
ries high,  where  the  queens  and  ladies  of  the  court  retired  even- 
ings for  the  breeze  and  to  pray ;  it  is  in  one  corner  of  a  quad- 
rangle surrounded  by  little  cells.  There  is  a  painting  almost 
obliterated  in  the  tower,  of  Mohammed  Shah  sitting  by  the  side 
of  his  favorite  dancing  girl,  who  seems  to  have  been  a  very  impor- 
tant personage  ;  adjoining  this,  and  still  on  the  south  side,  is  the 
Sath-kandi  or  kitchen,  a  very  large  building.     Judging  from  the 


Sketched  by  the  Autlior.  See  page  151, 

TlIK   rATUIAllCHAL   EMBRACE.   TRIMBUC. 


MORE   RUINS  AND   TOMBS.  181 

space  allowed  for  the  culinary  art,  its  results  must  have  been  a 
very  favorite  source  of  gratification.  On  to  the  adolat-khanah: 
where  the  king  received  petitions;  this  joins  the  ruins  of  the 
Sonah-Mahal  or  "  Golden  Palace,"  now  burnt.  All  of  these  were 
built  by  Ali  Adil  Shah  II.  Then  the  Avada-Mahal,  or  Harem, 
large,  and  three  stories  high,  with  a  splendid  lofty  arched  entrance. 
Most  of  the  interior  is  supported  by  narrow  arches  arranged  tp 
be  closed  if  desired ;  adjoining  this  the  Doby-Mahal,  which  I  do 
not  understand,  as  Doby  means  washerman,  whereas  this  is  the 
counterpart  of  the  harem,  and  eastern  potentates  generally  have 
a  separate  building  for  themselves,  as  reception  hall  and  for 
business.  I  think  it  must  have  been  the  King's  Palace.  There  is 
a  large  tank  or  basin  near  by,  which  may  have  suggested  its  name. 
The  gardens  are  a  jungle.  On  to  a  curious  little  mosque,  for- 
merly a  Hindoo  temple,  with  a  multitude  of  irregularly  arranged 
columns,  the  ceiling  lo.w,  and  a  second  story  in  one  part.  It  is 
called  the  Agrahar,  and  pertained  to  the  Hindoo  College  near  it. 
Then  the  Mecca-Musjid,  built  by  Ali  Adil  Shah  I. 

Thence  to  the  citadel  gate,  near  which  is  an  old  ruin  with  curious 
sculpture  like  the  caves  at  Ellora,  and  some  black  basalt  columns 
with  Kandareese  inscriptions,  one  of  the  columns  curiously  carved. 

To  the  palace  of  the  Asaim  Sharif,  so  called  from  holding  some 
relics  of  Mahomet,  of  course  they  are  very  sacred,  and  only  shown 
once  a  year.  There  is  nothing  of  note  about  the  building  save 
the  upper  rooms,  one  of  them  covered  with  morning  glories — the 
other  with  partially  defaced  figures.  The  faces  were  the  only 
interesting  parts,  and  some  of  them  were  well  executed. 

Continued  to  the  unfinished  tomb  of  Ali  Adil  Shah  II.,  of 
grey  basalt,  on  a  terrace  two  hundred  feet  square,  and  fifteen 
high,  on  each  side  a  row  of  seven  lofty  arches  about  twenty-eight 
feet  high,  by  twenty-two  broad.  These  arches  are  three  feet 
deep ;  in  the  centre  of  the  building  on  a  raised  platform,  repose 
the  remains  of  Ali  Adil  Shah  and  some  of  his  family.  The  rains 
present  a  fine  appearance;  this  building  was  commenced  in 
a  moment  of  vanity,  with  the  intention  of  its  being  so  enormous 


182  FEOM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

as  to  throw  a  shadow  on  the  tomb  of  Mahommcd  Shah,  which  is 
half  a  mile  or  more  distant. 

Terminated  my  morning's  work  by  breakfasting  with  Hunt 
and  Turner,  wlio,  like  myself,  were  occupying  a  tomb.  I  then 
rode  to  the  tomb  of  Mahomed  Shah,  for  H.  to  try  his  concertina. 
The  effect  was  delightful.  One  of  them  proposed  trying  a 
gun  in  the  dome;  so  hailed  my  people  from  one  of  the  seventh 
story  windows  to  bring  up  the  rifle — for  a  gentle  experiment ! 
The  noise,  fired  from  where  we  were  on  top  of  the  building  and 
base  of  the  dome,  was  like  a  cannon.  They  then  proposed  firing 
it  near  the  wall,  and  one  of  them  went  on  the  opposite  side 
and  placed  his  ear  close  to  the  wall,  the  shock  was  so  great  that 
he  was  nearly  stunned.  Retiring  to  my  tomb,  I  did  the  honors 
of  the  mosque  with  a  "tiffin"  (lunch). 

To  the  citadel,  after  which,  they  went  home  to  coj)y  some 
of  my  sketches,  and  I  to  the  Great  Mosque.  The  Jumma  Mus- 
jed,  or  Great  Mosque,  is,  as  its  name  implies,  the  Mosque  of  the 
place ;  an  arcade  encloses  the  three  sides  of  the  quadrangle  in 
front.  The  portico  is  supported  by  fine  columns,  from  every 
one  of  which  rises  a  domed  ceiling.  In  the  rear,  in  place  of  a 
pulpit  or  altar,  is  a  recess  beautifully  ornamented  with  relievos 
and  inscriptions,  or  passages  from  the  Koran  in  Persian.  These 
are  in  gold,  on  a  ground  of  black,  blue,  and  red,  rich,  though  not 
gaudy — Arabic  taste  arranges  the  colors  so  well.  There  are 
several  other  fine  tombs,  but  pleasing  only  from  the  exterior. 

March  16th. — Made  a  daylight  sketch  of  Mahommed  Shah's 
tomb,  after  lots  of  trouble  from  the  people  about  it,  "  bothering" 
me  for  orders  and  certificates,  for  they  are  as  pertinacious  as 
obsequious  and  tedious.  At  last,  off  to  the  Ibraham  Eosa  or 
Mausoleum  of  Ibrahim  Adil  Shah,  outside  of  the  gate.  It  is  a 
very  beautiful  building,  like  a  mosque  in  appearance.  The 
interior  is  plain,  with  only  the  tombs  of  himself,  wife,  and  those 
of  three  or  four  of  his  brothers  and  children.  Around  the  exte- 
rior of  the  building  is  a  portico,  and  the  walls  covered  with 


WELLS  AT  BEEJAPOEE.  183 

scroll  work,  except  where  relieved  by  passages  from  the  Koran, 
in  Arabic  characters  of  gilt  on  a  colored  ground — the  effect 
exceedingly  rich.  The  mosque  on  the  opposite  end  of  the  ter- 
race, is  much  like  the  Java  Musjed ;  returning  home  stopped  to 
sketch  the  Ibraham  Kosa,  where  Hunt  and  Turner  told  me  an 
amusing  account  the  siwars  gave  them  of  me  the  day  I  arrived, 
when  they  inquired  who  I  was,  they  said,  "Oh!  Sahib  is  an 
engineer  Sahib,  and  busy  drawing  all  the  cities,  he  looks  at 
them  one  day  and  draws  them  the  next — and  so  quick ;  (then 
casting  a  very  supercilious  look  around,  said)  why  he  would 
take  everything  in  this  place  in  two  or  three  hours !  "  They  being 
sketchers  themselves,  had  a  good  laugh  at  the  wonderful  per- 
formances attributed  to  me. 

Beejapore  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  places 
I've  ever  visited,  and  one  of  the  most  so,  that  probably  ever  ex- 
isted. Springing  from  nothing,  in  two  hundred  years  rose,  under 
the  magic  influence  of  eight  successive  Mahommed  sovereigns,  to  a 
point  of  magnificence  probably  not  surpassed  in  India,  and  then 
as  suddenly  sinking  into  obscurity  after  its  conquest  by  Aurung- 
zebe,  which  put  an  end  to  this  short-lived,  though  most  bril- 
liant dynast}^.  There  are  said  still  to  be  in  existence,  700  wells 
with  steps,  and  300  without.  Wells  in  the  East  are  one  of  the 
indications  of  loealth  and  importance.  700  mosques  of  stone  and 
700  of  chunam  (plaster),  the  walls  eight  miles  in  circumference. 
Jusef  Adil  Shah  commenced  his  reign,  a.d.  1500 ;  Ismael  Adil 
Shah,  1507 ;  Ibraham  Adil  Shah,  1534 ;  Ali  Adil  Shah,  1557 ; 
Ibrahim  Adil  Shah  II.,  1579;  Mahommed  Shah,  1626;  Ali 
Adil  Shah  II.,  1060;  Secunda  Adil  Shah,  1685.  To-day  dis- 
missed my  siwars  to  return  to  Satara. 

March  17 ih,  Hindoo  Temple.— Found  this  cool  and  inviting, 
so  "  put  up"  in  it  In  the  midst  of  a  nap,  a  wedding  party  came 
in  to  do  "pooja,"  or  some  other  ceremony,  eat  cakes,  etc. ;  the 
groom  came  to  my  bed  to  give  me  two  rolls,  each  with  chunam 
and  a  betel-nut  wrapped  in  a  tobacco  leaf,  which  they,  both 


184:  FUOM    WAI.I.    STREET   TO    CASHMERE. 

men  and  women,  chew.  It  is  disgusting,  makes  a  red  saliva,  and 
the  chewers  as  they  expectorate  the  red  saliva,  have  the  appear- 
ance of  bleeding  at  the  lungs.  As  no  one  here  knows  about  Bee- 
januggur  or  Iwally,  or  even  the  names  of  the  stations  along  the 
road,  I  shall  have  to  give  up  my  search  after  these  old  towns, 
and  go  on  to  Kulludghee,  besides  losing  a  day  looking  for  them. 

When  I  laid  down  to  sleep,  I  sent  my  butler  to  the  head  man 
of  the  village  to  get  bullocks,  and  had  just  turned  over  for 
another  nap  after  the  bridal  party  left,  when  my  servant  came 
back  with  the  report  I  could  not  have  any ;  just  then  I  saw  a 
crowd  coming  up,  which  the  servant  said  was  the  head  man 
himself,  so  thought  I'd  anticipate  his  impertinence;  got  up, 
stepped  into  my  slippers  and  picking  up  the  riding  whip,  went 
out  and  met  him — he  was  surrounded  by  a  gang  who  came  to  see 
him  bully  me.     I  told  him,  I  wished  two  pair  of  bullocks,  and 

had  an  order  from  !Mr.  0 ,  the  resident,  on  all  the  villages 

for  what  I  wished.     He  said  he  was  not  going  to  give  me  any, 

and  did  not  care  for  Mr.  0 ,  he  had  nothing  to  do  with  him. 

So  then  I  told  him  I  must  and  would  have  them,  and  if  the 
bullocks  were  not  here  in  half  an  hour  I'd  lay  my  whip  over  his 
back — -emphasising  my  threat  to  show  I  was  in  earnest,  with  an 
alternation  of  my  fist,  in  proximity  to  his  eyes,  and  the  end  of 
my  heavy  hunting  whip  punching  his  ribs;  then  kicked  his 
sepoy  for  not  bringing  them,  and  turning  on  my  heel,  went  back 
-to  bed  again,  leaving  him  and  his  crew  to  enjoy  the  interview 
and  the  loss  of  anticipated  fun  in  their  respective  ways.  In  fif- 
teen minutes  the  bullocks  were  before  the  temple. 

Now  m}'-  "  stupids"  must  make  a  fuss,  they  can't  ride  a  bul- 
lock or  tattoo  without  a  saddle  and  stirrups,  and  I'm  sure  I  don't 
know  what  all  else  their  troubles  are.  I  expect  they  will  want 
my  horse  and  saddle  next.  There  was  an  old  fellow  in  here  to 
pray  to-day,  who  in  "  doing  up"  Bramah,  or  the  others  of  that 
charming  trio,  stretched  himself  five  times  on  the  floor. 

.  March  18^/i,  Kola. — Just  before  we  got  here,  fourteen  ante- 


FORDING   A   RIVER.  185 

lopes  passed  within  half  rifle  shot,  unfortunately  in  the  row  last 
night  my  rifle  was  put  in  the  carts.  I  am  in  a  sort  of  govern- 
ment office,  proclamations  and  notices  in  Kandarese  hang  around 
the  room,  while  bed-bugs  promenade  it,  much  to  my  horror  and 
discomfort.  But  the  sun  is  so  hot  I  can't  tent,  except  under  a 
tree;  however,  after  this  I  shall  always  find  bungalows. 

The  police  officials  have  been  very  civil — to  pay  for  it  I'  ve  had 
to  give  four  certificates  vouching  for  the  attention,  besides  money. 
One  man  rolled  and  wagged  his  head  like  a  "dancing  jack" 
while  his  was  being  read. 

March  19,  Kulludghee. — Started  my  people  off  last  evening 
at  sunset  while  I  napped  till  twelve,  when  I  started  with  the 
Coolies,  and  the  bed,  and  torch-bearer.  In  an  hour  came  to  a 
rapid  branch  of  the  Chrishna  which  we  forded,  how,  I  can't  say, 
for  we  seemed  to  be  wading  down  stream  a  distance  of  a  mile  and 
a  half;  there  was  a  rapid  current,  a  rocky  bed,  and  water  from 
a  foot  to  two  and  a  half  deep,  which  made  it  confoundedly  awk- 
ward for  all,  particularly  me  on  horseback,  for  though  the  guide 
and  four  men  who  carried  the  bed  and  bedstead  got  along  very 
well,  they  went  slow,  feeling  their  way ;  the  torch-bearer  kept 
between,  to  give  them  and  me  an  equal  benefit ;  but  my  Arab, 
who  is  a  fast  walker,  disliked  both  the  smoke  and  slow  loco- 
motion, and  as  he  pitched  and  plunged  among  the  rocks  I 
expected  every  moment  he  would  either  upset  the  bed-bearers, 
or  go  into  a  hole  and  give  me  "  a  dip."  Luckily  we  all  got  over 
safely.  I  did  not  dare  think  how  my  baggage  got  across,  for 
with  the  thought  came  visions  of  wet  carpet  bags,  with  ruined 
sketches,  drawing-books,  and  herbarium. 

Sunday,  March  20.— A  chaplain  is  only  allowed  here  for  six 
months,  so  I've  been  in  the  bungalow  all  day.  To-day  been 
luxuriating  in  some  of  the  Boston  hermetically  sealed  "fixins," 
long  clam  soup  and  tomato  catsup. 


186  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

March  21,  PuNCiiAGAUM. — Nothing  of  interest  on  the  road  or 
here. 

March  22,  Em.'USTOOR. — Two  or  three  wild  boars  crossed  the 
road  last  night  a  short  distance  ahead  of  me.  I  thought  thej 
were  bears  at  first.  In  this  country,  where  there  is  such  a  vari- 
ety of  game,  it  is  not  safe  to  ride  too  near,  unless  you  know  what 
it  is.  A  friend  of  mine  in  that  way  rode  nearly  up  to  a  tigress 
and  her  cubs  a  few  months  ago,  mistaking  them  for  wolves,  and 
did  not  discover  his  error  until  within  a  hundred  yards  and  then 
without  a  gun.  Here  found  half-a-dozen  horses,  boar-spears,  and 
servants.  At  sundown  up  galloped  three  officers  for  a  "  pig- 
sticking" frolic. 

March  23. — Found  there  were  several  people  in  the  bungalow, 
a  lot  of  carts  and  traps ;  made  the  peon  find  me  a  room,  so  snug, 
could  just  about  get  in  with  a  bed  and  carpet-bag.  After  I  had  done 
the  principal  part  of  the  day's  work,  breakfast  and  a  nap,  butler 
reported  the  two  gentlemen  sent  their  "  salaams  (in  English, 
compliments  or  any  other  civil  expression),  to  me  and  wished 
me  to  join  them  in  the  piazza  to  dine  ;  then  thinking,  perhaps, 
he  had  not  expressed  the  civility  or  invitation  strong  enough, 
added,  "  and  Madame  Sahib  sends  her  salaam  too !"  Not  liking 
to  trust  him  with  a  verbal  message  after  his  late  brilliant  sample, 
I  "sugared  up"  (anglice,  arranged  my  toilet),  and  getting  on  a 
coat,  paid  the  gentlemen  a  visit  and  thanking  them  for  the  invi- 
tation, begged  to  be  excused  from  the  dinner  as  my  wardrobe 
was  not  in  a  presentable  condition  for  ladies'  eyes,  and  dressing 
was  no  joke  when  I  would  have  had  to  unpack  a  trunk  for 
"toggery,"  besides  re-packing  again  immediately  for  my  mid- 
night journey.  One  was  a  married  man,  a  Mr.  Gillespie,*  the 
other  a  youngster  cadet,  who  was  very  near  blowing  us  all  up 
by  touching  off  some  loose  powder  on  a  table  that  had  an  open 

*  About  a  year  afterwards  killed  by  a  tiger  while  shooting. 


BELGAUM.  187 

canister  standing  in  the  middle  of  it.  Luckily  his  friend  saw  the 
movement  in  time  to  snatch  it  up  and  run  out,  wliile  the  foolish 
boy  had  his  hands  and  face  well  blistered,  and  eyebrows  and 
lashes  burnt  off.  My  Arab,  thanks  to  his  stupid  groom,  is  not 
well — so  I've  got  to  take  to  the  bullock-cart  this  evening. 

March  24,  Belgaum. — Got  in  at  half-past  one  last  night,  and 
began  the  day  good  by  going  to  church,  it  being  Lent,  A  con- 
gregation of  about  four  persons.  Then  as  the  song  says,  "sent 
for  a  surgeon  (veterinary)  the  first  in  his  vocation,  who  came  and 
made  a  long  oration,  and  ended  his  jaw  by  amputation,"  not  pre- 
cisely, but  by  suggesting  a  burning  iron  and  medicines.  I  cited 
Youatt  and  proposed  bleeding ;  so  he  consented,  praised  the  horse, 
as  every  body  does — and  left.  This  afternoon  a  walk  around  the 
town,  which  has  a  high  wall,  deep  moat,  and  circular  buttresses ; 
found  pretty  flowers,  and  their  seeds  in  which  you  will  feel  more 
interest.  On  my  way  home  passed  a  bungalow — a  pretty  flaxen- 
haired  little  child  ran  almost  up  to  me  exclaiming  "Pa,  pa," 
when  it  discovered  the  mistake  the  poor  little  thing  ran  back 
again,  displaying  its  chagrin  in  wry  faces.  From  a  high  hill  had 
a  good  view  of  Belgaum.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  with  undu- 
lating country  and  a  belt  of  distant  hills.  It  is  the  head-quarters 
of  division,  in  this  part  of  the  presidency. 

March  25. — This  day  a  year,  according  to  church  chronology, 
I  was  wandering  about  Jerusalem.  I  wonder  where  my  wan- 
dering whim  will  lead  me  this  time  next  year — much  nearer  home 
I  hope.  Commenced  this  morning  before  sunrise  in  a  regular 
fog,  the  first  I've  seen  in  India ;  walked  down  to  the  fort  and  all 
through  and  around  it.  It  is  not  strictly  speaking  a  fort,  but  the 
shell  of  a  walled  town,  occupied  by  ofiicers,  bungalows,  church,  and 
small  quarters  for  a  few  soldiers,  from  a  mile  and  a  half  to  two 
miles  in  circuit — the  interior  is  laid  out  in  pretty  gardens,  now 
filled  with  flowers.  The  bungalows  are  not  pretty,  but  pictu- 
resque, with  their  many  attachments,  for  each  room  is  ahnost 
a  small  house  by  itself. 


188  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Then  came  home  and  bought  a  pony,  as  my  horse  must  have  a 
respite  of  a  few  clays.  Now  another  new  gorawalla — fellows 
who  are  the  bother  of  one's  life — this  is  my  fourth  in  about  two 
months. 

To  church  on  my  new  purchase.  On  the  way  home  he  "  bolted" 
down  a  steep  hill  for  the  stable,  to  the  considerable  risk  of  his 
neck,  and  mine  too.  *  Found  my  table  covered  with  flowers  and 
seeds.  I  had  sent  my  butler,  who  knows  almost  every  person 
of  note,  and  without  note,  in  this  presidency,  to  get  me  every 
kind  of  flower  he  could  find,  and  I  think  lie  must  have  obeyed 
the  order  literally ;  among  the  flowers  one  I've  been  trying  a 
long  time  to  find — a  very  beautiful  flowering  tree  for  a  garden 
hedge ;  heretofore  the  seeds  had  all  been  green.  My  butler  is  a 
jewel  in  some  things,  notwithstanding  his  stupidity  in  others. 
He  is  always  looking  out  for  something  good  for  me  to  eat,  which, 
he  begs,  borrows,  or  buys,  as  may  happen.  To-day  met  a  fellow 
butler  with  some  fine  Bombay  mangoes  (the  best  in  India),  he 
was  carrying  homeward  for  his  master,  and  he  begged  four  nice 
ones  for  me,  two  of  whicb.  I've  paid  my  respects  to.  The  stones 
are  lying  at  my  side  drying  to  be  packed  away  with  the  other 
fruit  stones,  and  seeds.  The  other  two  mangoes  have  the  same 
prospective  division  before  them.  I  wisb  I  could  give  them  to 
you  instead,  together  with  a  heap  of  flowers  in  my  window  to  be 
thrown  away.  The  mango  fruit  is  flattish  and  oval  looking,  like 
a  small  over-ripe  watermelon,  but  not  much  larger  than  a  good- 
sized  pear.  The  inside  is  yellow  and  exceedingly  luscious,  but 
tbe  fruit  is  not  equal  to  the  praise  bestowed  upon  it.  It  has  a 
large  oval  flattish  stone. 

Butler  is  trying  to  decide  about  a  second  gorawalla  I  must 
have  for  my  other  horse.  One  is  a  particularly  good  groom,  but 
drinks  occasionally.  The  other  is  not  quite  so  good,  but  sober ; 
both,  take  their  wives.  Madras  women  as  well  as  men,  are  fond 
of  a  "  dhrop."  In  this  place,  there  are  four  regiments,  one  or 
two  European,  belonging  to  the  Company's  service. 


■iii!:i''i 


INDIAN  APATHY.  189 

March  26th,  Patna  Bungalow. — At  twelve  I  started,  pass- 
ing through  the  native  town,  not  a  person  except  the  guards 
to  be  seen.  For  two  days  past,  there  has  been  a  furious  jubilee 
here.  Went  by  a  tree  covered  with  garlands — doubtless,  one  of 
the  head-quarters  of  the  festivities.  Four  years  ago,  the  Hindoo 
and  Mahommedan  processions  met,  and  the  military  had  to  be 
called  out  to  suppress  the  riot.  Last  night  met  two  gentlemen 
going  in.  At  daylight,  saw  a  hill  fort,  a  short  distance  from  the 
road.  Added  to  my  collection  four  kinds  of  seeds,  and  some 
pretty  delicate  leaves  I've  not  seen  before. 

March  27//;,  Batsee  Bungalow. — Crossed  last  night  Eham 
Ghaut,  the  crossable  part  of  a  range  of  high  hills.  It  is  the  great 
resort  of  Belgaum  officers  and  families  during  the  warm  months. 
On  the  way  up  we  came  on  three  large  wild  boars  and  fifteen 
young  ones.  The  rifle,  as  usual,  was  safe  in  the  cart.  At  the  top 
of  the  ghaut  passed  several  bungalows — the  view  was  lovely  even 
by  moonlight.  The  broken  ranges  of  rugged  hills  were  covered 
with  heavy  jungle,  and  all  enveloped  in  the  thick  mist  as  it  rose 
from  the  valley.  The  ascent  was  sufficiently  bad,  but  the 
descent  infinitely  worse.  For  several  hundred  yards,  the  road  is 
precipitous,  with  sudden  turns.  Saw  an  officer's  cart  upset,  and 
"kit"  distributed  about  the  road — but  didn't  dare  think  of 
mine ;  shortly  after  his  two  horses,  with  the  gorawallas,  and 
the  other  cart ;  the  attendants  all  fast  asleep,  quite  regardless  of 
what  had  become  of  the  other  cart — true  Indian  apathy. 

Had  to-day  the  benefit  of  another  Hindoo  fete.  They  seem  to 
come  quite  as  often  as  in  Eussia,  where  they  use  up  four  days 
out  of  the  seven.  At  the  head  of  the  procession  which  visited 
me,  were  half-a-dozen  maniacal  looking  persons,  with  long  flying 
hair — dancing,  and  flourishing  naked  swords. 

March  28ih,  Hass^vnendi. — After  dinner  last  night,  I  gave  or- 
ders to  start  at  seven.  Waking  up  at  twelve,  I  found  my  people  not 
gone  and  asking  butler  why,  he  said,  "  I  no  can  do  anything — those 


190  FROM    WAI>T>   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

nasty  bullock  men  say  '  no  go.' "  I  took  my  hunting  whip,  and 
went  where  they  were  sitting,  smoking,  and  chattering  with  their 
friends ;  and  giving  them  a  very  demonstrative  hint  that  I  meant 
my  orders  to  be  obeyed,  carts  and  men  were  very  soon  on  the 
march.  Shortly  after  starting,  we  crossed  the  lines  into  the  Por- 
tuguese territory  of  Goa.  We  were  stopped,  and  had  to  unload 
everything  in  the  carts,  the  guard  having  made  such  a  "  rout" 
after  allowing  us  to  pass,  owing  to  some  officious  underling.  So 
we  had  to  return,  and  four  officials  were  roused  from  their 
slumbers  to  know  whether  we  could  pass  or  not,  and  at  last  we 
were  consigned  to  the  tender  mercies  of  a  Hindoo  "  writer,"  who 
was  (for  me)  unfortunately  too  honest  for  a  bribe,  or  to  be  over- 
come with  civility. 

Found  a  marked  difference  in  the  roads  and  country  the  mo-  , 
ment  we  crossed  the  lines.  Though  midnight  I  added  some 
seeds  to  my  collection.  To-day,  for  want  of  accommodation  or  a 
boat,  I  have  been  melting  in  the  tent  in  a  cocoa-nut  grove,  where 
I've  been  alternating  between  sketching,  studying,  napping,  rifle 
practice,  and  swimming. 

This  afternoon,  several  heavy  showers,  and  it  was  quite  refresh- 
ing to  see  a  little  rain  once  more. 

March  29(h,  Goa. — "Waking  about  midnight,  I  walked  out 
to  see  if  the  boat  had  arrived ;  it  was  a  lovely  night,  with  full 
moon.  Part  of  my  people  were  asleep  under  a  tree,  with  a 
fortification  of  traps  around,  ready  for  embarkation.  I  routed 
my  cook  to  know  if  the  boat  had  arrived.  He  paid  a  visit  to 
the  butler,  who  was  reposing  under  the  shade  of  a  neighboring 
shed.  He  returned  with  the  intelligible  report,  "Butler,  sahib, 
be  sleep;  say  no  go;  water  can't  come;  boat  be  here  some 
time  p'haps."  So  I  tried  to  be  resigned,  and  retired  to  bed 
again.  "Was  woke  at  two  with  the  good  news  the  boat  was  in  ; 
in  ten  minutes  the  tent  was  down,  the  things  and  we  were  all  on 
board  and  off.  The  sail  was  through  a  narrow  creek,  with  wild 
scenery.     Got  here  at  daylight,  where  I  was  soon  stowed  in  one 


DESCRIPTION   OF   GOA,  191 

of  the  travellers'  quarters,  the  other  being  occupied  by  four 
English  officers. 

The  place  is  pleasantly  situated,  though  awfully  and  hope- 
lessly dirty.  In  the  river  opposite,  lays  a  Portuguese  corvette, 
which  they  have  been  two  years  repairing,  and  at  last  is  to  start 
for  home.  Light  canoes  are  skimming  the  river,  paddled  by  a 
single  native  in  the  stern.  After  breakfast,  I  had  a  visit  from  a 
Portuguese  appointed  by  the  government  to  wait  on  travellers. 
He  brought  me  two  letters  from  Bombay.  Among  his  interest- 
ing remarks,  was:  "United  States  fine  country;  beginning  to 
improve  quite  fast.  You  under  English  government  once,  why 
not  come  so  'gain?     First-rate  government." 

This  afternoon,  I  went  to  the  toj^  of  the  Flagstaff  Hill  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  from  whence  is  a  most  beautiful  view  of  the 
entrance  to  the  harbor,  its  two  forts,  the  river,  the  town  with  its 
numerous  churches,  with  distant  villages  and  horizon  bounded 
by  blue  hills.  The  territory  has  a  population  of  400,000,  with 
4,000  soldiers.  One  regiment  is  European,  the  rest  are  native, 
with  considerable  Portuguese  blood,  all  of  whom  have  the  chance 
to  be  promoted  to  any  rank  in  the  service,  which  is  not  the  case 
in  the  East  India  Company's  service,  where  the  highest  native 
officer  is  inferior  to  the  lieutenant.  The  soldiers  here,  are  a  very 
slouchy  set,  like  their  masters ;  quite  unlike  the  easy  soldierly 
bearing  of  an  English  sepoy,  who,  but  for  his  face,  would  be 
taken  for  an  English  soldier,  who,  of  all  I've  seen  in  Europe, 
have  the  most  soldierly  bearing. 

The  revenue  is  about  $500,000,  which  is  very  small  for  so 
rich  a  country,  and  with  such  advantages,  if  improved.  In 
front  of  my  house,  are  anchored  several  catamarans,  which  are 
only  dug  out  with  high  siding  and  no  bearings,  with  two  long 
covered  poles,  and  a  heavy  pointed  log  attached,  which  floats  in 
the  water.  I've  my  own  doubts  about  their  speed  when  com- 
pared with  our  fast  boats !  Eeally  the  smell  of  salt  water  is 
most  invigorating.  There  is  an  insurrection  on  the  frontier,  and 
several  wounded  and  dying  sepoys  were  brought  in  yesterday. 


192  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Marcli  oOih. — By  sunrise  was  off  in  a  muncliil  to  hunt  up  my 
banker  who  lives  out  of  town.  The  apparatus  was  a  legless 
couch  with  an  awning  or  framework  attached  to  the  pole  that 
sustained  the  munchil,  which  pulls  down  on  either  side  you 
wish  it.  What  a  luxury  it  would  be  to  have  one  of  these  at 
home,  if  j'ou  could  only  have  four  stout  fellows  to  carry  you 
about  all  day  for  half  a  dollar.  I  met  the  "  gent"  on  the  way — 
"the  spirit  had  moved  him"  to  come  in  that  morning.  He  was 
a  high  caste  Hindoo,  half  naked,  and  slipshod,  with  a  crimson  vel- 
vet skull-ca]),  after  the  fashion  of  his  class  in  this  locality.  He 
was  shuffling  along  on  foot — his  palanquin  following.  Getting 
the  money,  I  started  in  a  large  boat  with  ten  oars  and  awning, 
called  a  bunda  boat,  for  old  Goa.  This'  place  is  by  distinction 
called  Pungee,  or  New  Goa.  The  day  was  fine,  and  the  row 
charming.  Went  by  numerous  little  villages,  each  with  its 
large  church — for  their  spiritual  welfare  is  well  attended  to — and 
I  presume,  as  a  matter  of  course,  they  liberally  reciprocate  the 
favor  by  sharing  their  worldly  goods  with  their  7dnd  spiritual 
benefactors.  There  was  once  a  college  here.  We  passed  the 
great  wall  built  by  Alfonzo  Albuquerque,  who  came  out  to  sub- 
jugate India,  and  in  1515  took  Goa,  and  made  it  the  capital,  to 
prevent  the  inroads  of  the  Mahrattas.  We  saw  the  once  mag- 
nificent ruins  of  the  St.  Augustme  monastery — perhaps  even  more 
grand  in  its  ruins,  for  thus  a  part  is  left  for  imagination  to 
supply,  though  this  is  scarcely  required — for  it  must  have  been 
larger  than  any  I've  seen  even  in  Europe.  It  once  had  three 
hundred  monks.  There  are  several  other  monastic  ruins,  and 
at  one  time  there  were  seven  hundred  monks  here.  A  rather 
formidable  ecclesiastical  establishment ! 

Visited  several  of  the  large  churches,  and  the  cathedral.  On 
the  pavement  over  the  vaults  I  read  the  names  of  many  of  its 
early  bishops  and  priests,  mostly  dating  from  1625  to  1700. 
From  the  cathedral  we  went  on  by  the  ruins  of  the  Inquisition  ! 
for  tliis  too,  it  appears,  was  necessary,  for  desperate  cases  require 
forcible  remedies,  in  some  religions  ! 


THE  JACK   FRUIT.  193 

We  "went  on  by  the  nunnery,  rambling  among  tlie  ruins  of  the 
St.  Augustine  monastery.  But  most  of  the  entrances  have  been 
walled  up,  and  much  of  the  stone  from  the  other  parts  has  been 
carried  to  New  Goa  for  building  purposes.  I  made  sketches,  got 
some  seeds,  and  started  for  home  ;  taking  another  sketch  as  we 
floated  down  the  river.  I  was  disappointed  in  the  ruins ;  they 
are  entirely  ecclesiastical,  but  the  sail  and  scenery  were  lovelj" — 
the  latter  I  fancy  scarce  equalled,  for  a  water  view  in  India.  As 
we  were  rowing  down  near  the  shore  we  saw  the  Governor's 
family  pass ;  among  them  was  a  pretty  daughter.  There  is  an  old 
bridge  built  in  1626  now  in  fine  preservation. 

Butler  "  laid  himself  out "  this  evening  for  a  grand  dinner,  as 
there  was  no  baggage  to  be  packed,  or  eight  o'clock  departure, 
besides  having  had  the  entire  cuisine  to  himself,  as  I  had  the 
mussal,  and  the  cook  had  gone  to  see  his  family.  But  I  won't  excite 
your  envy  by  a  recital  of  all  the  "  good  things."  Suffice  to  say, 
besides  four  vegetables,  I  had  for  dessert  six  lands  of  fruit,  as  if 
he  supposed  the  sail  had  given  me  the  capacity  and  ability  of 
ten  men.  Of  the  vegetables,  one  was  a  white  sweet  potato,  not 
as  richly  flavored  as  the  yellow  kind.  The  fruits  were  plantains, 
pine  apples,  mango,  guava,  jack  fruit,  and  cashoo.  I  only  won- 
der "Butler  Sahib  "  did  not  provide  a  few  melons  and  cocoa-nuts. 
As  the  market  does  not  furnish  all,  he  had  resorted  to  some  of 
his  multitudinous  friends  to  beg  or  borrow.  The  jack  fruit  is 
much  eaten  by  the  natives.  It  grows  in  a  large  sack  from  one 
to  two  feet  long,  by  six  to  twelve  inches  in  diameter,  and  with 
half  an  inch  thickness  of  skin  which  is  rough,  closely  studded 
with  small  pomts.  Inside  is  the  fruit,  packed  in  segments  like 
an  orange,  several  hundred  being  in  each  sack ;  butler  showed 
me  a  quarter  of  one  which  he  and  another  butler  had  bought : 
I  think  it  will  last  me  and  the  servants  nearly  a  week,  they  are  so 
sweet  and  luscious ;  the  tree  is  large,  and  used  for  canoes  and  fur- 
niture. In  each  segment  of  the  fruit  is  a  large  bean-shaped  stone. 
The  sack  looks  like  a  wet  sponge,  and  grows  on  small  twigs  from 
the  trunk  and  branches,  and  not  on  the  ends  of  the  branches. 

13 


19-4  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

The  cashoo  is  a  beautiful  fruit,  shaped  like  a  bell  pear,  of  a 
rich  golden  color,  with  "  a  dash  "  of  red  on  one  side.  Outside  on 
the  large  end,  where  the  blossom  usually  is,  grows  the  stone. 
The  tree  is  as  large  as  a  good  sized  apple-tree,  with  large  leaf. 
The  fruit  is  juicy  and  pulpy.  I  do  not  like  it  very  much.  The 
sap  and  juice  are  made  into  a  liquor,  the  leaves  used  medicinally. 
The  other  fruits  on  table,  I've  before  described.  The  cocoa-nut 
is  extensively  grown  here  for  oil  and  fruit ;  liquor  is  distilled 
from  its  sap.  Being  the  only  good  oil  in  India,  it  is  used  by  every 
one.  The  lamps  are  generally  glass  vessels  of  oil  with  float- 
ing tapers,  a  style  peculiar  to  India.  Just  as  I  was  sitting  down 
this  evening  to  write,  in  came  butler  with  his  "  day  book,"  with, 
"Massa,  please  make  my  'count,"  the  usual  preface,  as  I  have  to 
attend  to  it,  or  he  forgets  his  hieroglyphics,  for  in  India  all  pur- 
chases and  payments  are  made  through  his  hands,  he  of  course 
charging  his  commission,  which  is  an  understood  thing,  called 
"  dustera."  Usually  both  sides  have  to  contribute  to  this. 
Whenever  I  fancy  I've  a  few  moments  to  myself,  this  vision  and 
■sound  greet  me ;  when  I  saw  the  long  list,  I  began  to  think  if  I 
should  stay  here  a  few  weeks  longer,  there  would  be  a  famine. 
I  have  about  as  many  entries  to  make  for  "  Butler  Sahib,"  as  a  mer- 
chant in  a  fair  business ;  but  with  this  difference — the  profits  to 
him,  and  loss  to  me.  I  had  just  finished  "Butler  Sahib,"  when 
the  Portuguese  agent  made  his  appearance,  and  like  all  stupid 
people  didn't  know  how  to  go  when  he  bad  finished  his  business. 
So  he  sat  and  bored  me. 

March  31,  Salsette. — I'm  sure  you  would  laugh  if  you  could 
"  look  in  "  upon  me  and  the  establishment,  at  the  present  moment, 
and  see  our  avocations.  We  are  all  in  and  about  an  old  shed, 
the  centre  of  attraction  to  the  loungers  of  the  village.  I  w^riting 
up  my  journal;  my  -"crow  quill,"  a  feather  from  a  fresh  killed 
chicken.  Not  being  able  to  get  at  my  portfolio,  I  had  to  take  a 
lantern  and  hunt  for  a  feather  from  some  late  "sudden  death," 
as  chickens  are  called  in  India  from  the  summarv  manner  that  in 


AN   INEFFICIENT   GOVERNMENT.  195 

liaif  an  hour's  time  they  are  metamorpliosed  frora  a  cackling  fowl 
to  a  well  flavored  "quill"  on  the  bungalow  "mahogany"  before 
a  half-starved  traveller.  I  had  to  dry  the  quill  before  the  fire,  to 
commence  operations.  The  horses  are  almost  at  my  elbow, 
winking  and  blinking,  sighing  and  pawing  under  their  shampoo- 
ing operations,  which  they  hate  as  much  as  any  boy  ever  did  to 
get  his  face  and  hands  washed.  .  Cook  and  mussal  are  busy  get- 
ting' dinner,  while  butler  waddles  about,  guggling  his  "  hubble- 
bubble,"  and  cackling  like  an  old  woman,  alternately  at  his 
subordinates  and  the  bullock  men,  and  in  his  agony  of  despair 
comes  and  asks  "If  Massa  won't  please  speak  to  them  nasty 
men,  he  no  do  nothing,  he  say  he  want  his  dinner,  he  go  this 
time  yesterday  morning,  you  kill,  you  cut  his  throat,  he  no  go 
'fore,  what  you  do?  Vulta?"  (What  can  I  do ?)  So  I  have 
to  go  out,  be  very  fierce,  and  threaten  to  annihilate  them ;  where- 
upon they  promise  to  start,  and  by  way  of  commencement  go 
and  get  their  supper  at  nine  o'clock  at  night,  instead  of  going  off 
with  my  baggage. 

It's  difficult  to  say  which  is  the  w^orst  here,  the  people  or  the 
government.  You  can't  compel  a  person  to  do  anything,  and  are 
swindled  awfully  by  every  one.  They  make  me  pay  four  times 
as  much  as  ever  before,  and  then  won't  do  what  I  want.  This 
morning  the  government  agent  came  in,  and  after  a  great  parade 
about  the  fuss  the  Governor  and  aids  had  made,  because  I  did  not 
call  on  them,  (which  I  expected  to  have  done  to-day,  not  having 
had  time  before,)  told  me  the  boatman  said  I  must  leave  imme- 
diately instead  of  this  afternoon  as  I  had  expected  to  do.  Luck- 
ily I  had  sent  my  horses  by  land  at  daylight,  and  been  up  to  the 
"Flagstaff  Hill,"  and  got  my  last  sketch.  So  I  only  missed 
seeing  the  Governor,  which  I  did  not  care  a  straw  about,  a  petty 
ofiicial  like  him  being  nothing  to  gain  or  lose  by  not  seeing.  So 
despatched  a  breakfast  of  fried  oysters,  etc.,  and  off  out  of  the  bay 
and  round  a  headland  at  sea,  on  which  stands  the  palace  of  the 
bishop.  We  were  hailed,  and  I  had  to  come  in  and  show  our 
permit  to  leave  the  country — a  miserable  farce  in  the  most  insig- 


196  FROM    WALL   STREET   TO    CASHMERE. 

nificaut  province  on  this  vast  continent,  and  tlie  only  one  in 
which  it  is  done.  Then  up  a  small  river  arriving  here  at  six 
this  evening, 

April  1. — Started  at  two  this  morning.  At  four  passed 
through,  a  large  town,  quite  European  in  appearance,  with 
houses  and  churches.  An  hour  after  changed  our  carts  for 
Coolies,  as  there  were  no  roads  beyond.  These  Coolies  happened 
to  be  women — and  such  a  time ! — arranging  for  seventeen  of  them 
of  all  ages  and  sizes  to  carry  my  "  traps."  At  last  the  price 
was  fixed,  just  half  as  high  again  as  it  should  be.  Then  off  they 
started  for  breakfast.  It  seems  an  universal  custom  in  the 
East  for  the  people  to  go  and  eat  after  making  a  bargain  and 
before  starting.  Perhaps  it  is  because  they  become  so  exhausted 
b}'  talking.  At  last  we  were  all  fairly  on  the  road,  and  tlirougb 
as  wild  a  looking  country  as  one  can  well  find  even  in  India.  The 
®nly  object  that  interested  me  was  a  brown  "  cobra  capella," — the 
first  I've  seen.  Reaching  a  village,  the  end  of  their  stage,  they, 
in  regular  woman  style,  "put  their  foot  down  " — they  would  not 
go  further  and  were  preciously  impertinent.  I  could  not  get 
any  others,  so  tried  their  sympathies,  but  "  no  go."  I  looked  firm 
and  said  they  should,  and  I'd  pay  them  extra ;  they  all  shoul- 
dered their  loads,  then  stood  blubbering  and  squalling,  and  we 
had  quite  a  commotion,  seventeen  women  "going  it  like  blazes.'' 
The  oflicials  came  up  and  said  tbey  would  find  me  men,  though 
they  had  before  refused.     I  must  spend  the  nigh.t  here. 

April  2ncl. — After  half  the  night  spent  in  quarrelling  about 
men,  got  off  at  seven  this  morning,  and  travelled  till  three,  cross- 
ing a  river  by  swimming  my  horse.  After  waiting  two  hours  on 
tlie  opposite  side,  half  starved,  and  half  sick  from  bad  water  last 
night,  had  a  deputation  of  Coolies  from  butler,  who  said  I  must 
go  back  to  the  Custom-house,  whicli  my  stupid  guide  had  made 
me  miss,  and  what  was  worse,  had  to  walk  in  a  hot  sun  four 
miles — two  there,  and  same  back,  with  long  riding  boots,  and 


sketched  by  the  Author. 


Seei.iig.--  r>y. 


YIKW  OF   DOWLATAB.VD    FOUTIIESS,  DECCAN. 


A   MONSTER   COBRA,  197 

half  sick,  feeling  ready  to  drop  every  step.  I  found  an  old 
Portuguese  colonel,  awfully  civil,  begging  a  thousand  pardons 
for  making  me  come  back,  and  glanced  very  magnificently  at  my 
order  to  pass  luggage  and  self.  Then  invited  me  to  take  some 
refreshments  prepared  for  me,  among  them  a  sausage  most  as 
long  and  as  thick  as  my  arm,  preserves,  wine,  etc.  But  I  was 
too  unwell  to  eat  anything,  so  got  a  cup  of  tea  which  set  me  up. 
Then  sent  my  people  off,  despatching  a  messenger  ahead  with  a 
Mahratta  and  Portuguese  order  to  the  various  officials  to  assist 
me,  besides  a  guard  to  prevent  my  three  men  from  deserting. 
The  colonel  was  going  to  send  me  in  his  palanquin,  but  a  ras- 
cally old  padre  had  borrowed  it.  I  waited  an  hour  in  vain  for 
him  to  return,  then  footed  it  back  escorted  by  a  guard. 

April  3cZ,  Sadashaghur. — Off  at  four,  reached  this,  and  meet- 
ing a  "half  caste"  (a  person  with  father  white,  mother  native), 
inquired  where  the  Government  bungalow  was,  and  who  w^ere  in 
the  place.  "  Only  the  lieutenant  on  the  hiU,  I  and  the  drummer." 
My  train  coming  up,  started  up  hill,  as  they  said  there  was  an 
empty  bungalow  at  the  disposal  of  travellers  if  j)ermission 
asked.     Found  my  informant  had  got  me  into  a  blunder,  as  the 

house  was  private  property,  belonging  to  a  Lieutenant  S , 

who,  with  true  Indian  hospitality,  gave  me  rooms,  and  ordered 
his  servants  to  prepare  breakfast.  I  was  right  glad  to  get  into 
comfortable  quarters  again.  Seen  nothing  to-day  to  interest  save 
an  awful  big  "  cobra  capella,"  eight  feet  long,  and  nearly  as  thick 
as  my  arm  ;  he  was  crossing  the  road  from  a  "paddy"  (rice)  field 
over  into  another.  He  was  not  more  than  forty  feet  from  me, 
going  along  with  head  a  foot  up ;  but  he  was  so  intent  looking  at 
me,  he  did  not  see  a  native  approaching  who  was  only  about 
twenty-five  feet  from  him,  nor  did  the  native  see  the  snake,  as  he 
was  so  intent  looking  at  me.  My  boy  with  the  rifle  was  behind, 
or  I  would  have  shot  the  snake,  the  Coolies  came  up  shortly, 
and  we  all  went  and  looked  for  him — luckily  did  not  find  him,  for 
he  was  so  large  some  of  us  would  likely  have  been  bitten  and 


198  FROJ[   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

killed.  lie  was  nearly  black — the  most  venomous  kind.  This  is 
a  lovely  spot,  on  a  promontory,  with  superb  view  of  the  island, 
bay,  and  distant  hills,  a  few  yards  distant  a  hill  fort ;  we  are 
within  its  walls. 

April  4:ih,  Areolar. — Started  at  four  this  morning;  am  now 
in  the  Madras  presidency,  and  find  frequent  bungalows  and  ser- 
vants to  get  meals.  To-day  I  have  been  marching  by  the  sea 
shore. 

April  5. — Off  at  midnight.  Early  this  morning,  I  crossed  quite 
a  bay  at  a  village  called  Tudaree.  "We  and  the  horses  all  went 
over  in  a  kind  of  horse  boat,  a  square  box  on  two  canoes ;  as  we 
went  near  the  breakers,  and  the  boat  rolled  heavily,  I  thought 
both  horses  would  either  upset  the  boat  or  get  into  the  water 
themselves,  which  is  not  altogether  free  from  sharks  in  these 
warm  latitudes.  I  suppose  the  grey  has  fearful  visions  of  his 
trip  from  the  Persian  Gulf  to  Bombay — like  the  "middle  pas- 
sage" of  negroes,  as  regards  the  comfortable  transport. 

April  6,  Honaiiwar. — Started  at  midnight  for  this  place, 
which  they  said  would  be  a  short  ride ;  but  I  found  it  five  or  six 
hours.  Passing  though  a  village  last  night,  I  saw  some  people 
dancing.  As  I  rode  up,  found  about  twenty-five  natives  hard  at 
work,  "on  the  light  fantastic  toe,"  at  some  kind  of  "jig"  or 
"shufl&e;"  they  were  decked  out  in  the  ordinary  long  white 
gowns,  pantalettes,  and  red  sashes,  with  their  turbans  filled  with 
artificial  flowers,  "doing"  a  most  intricate  dance.  The  torch- 
bearers,  by  way  of  compliment,  stationed  themselves  at  my  side, 
nearly  suffocating  me  with  smoke,  besides  the  uncomfortable  heat, 
so  I  begged  to  be  excused  from  the  honor.  After  breakflist  sent 
for  the  cutwal  (native  official),  to  know  about  the  routes  and 
distance  to  Gussuppa  Falls.  He  said  he  did  not  know,  but  had 
"  a  book  down  at  the  office  that  would  tell  all  about  it."  So  back 
he  came  with  a  Tamal  Bible.*     But  as  that  did  not  lead  to  any 

*  One  of  the  many  dialects  in  Southern  India,  -which  are  so  numerous. 


A  FAMOUS  HUNTER.  199 

of  the  Indian  routes  whicli  I  wished  to  take,  inquired  what  offi- 
cials were  in  the  place.  He  began  with  the  collector,  who  was 
away  then,  the  Judge  Sahib.  I  stopped  him  there,  and  getting 
myself  up  respectably,  called  and  sent  in  my  card.  I  found  a 
very  nice  old  gentleman  of  sixty-two  or  three,  who  at  once 
entered  into  all  my  plans ;  said  he  would  lend  me  his  "  mun- 
chil"  (a  light  palanquin),  till  I  could  have  one  made,  and  sent  Coo- 
lies on  the  road  ahead,  and  advised  me  to  sell  most  of  my  things, 
horses,  etc. ;  if  not,  to  send  the  horses  by  land  to  Seringapatani 
or  Bangalore — a  march  of  about  850  miles,  and  I  go  down  the 
coast  in  his  yacht  to  Calicut.  Said  I  must  excuse  his  not  asking 
me  to  stay  at  his  house,  for  it  was  already  full,  but  sleep  at  the 
dawk  bungalow  (government  bungalow^),  "but  I  shall  expect  you 
to  come  and  spend  the  days  here,  taking  your  meals  with  us," 
besides  routes  on  which  he  could  "  book"  me  on  all  his  relatives 
and  friends.  Isn't  that  an  avalanche  of  good  luck  ?  After  dinner 
I  had  a  nice  sail  in  a  small  yacht. 

April  7. — Brealcfasted  with  Judge  L .  There  is  a  gen- 
tleman staying  with  him,  a  famous  "  chicarri"  (hunter),  who 
came  out  some  years  ago  as  a  cadet,  and  when  he  first  joined  the 
army  he  was  so  bullied  by  his  comrades  and  superior  officerSj 
that  in  a  fit  of  disgust  he  sold  out,  and  not  daring  to  go  home,, 
went  into  the  jungle  and  lived  like  a  native  for  ten  years;  not 
seeing  during  this  period  a  white  person,  or  any  one  who  spoke 
English,  he  almost  forgot  the  language.  He  w^as  finally  disco- 
vered and  put  in  business  somewhere  on  the  coast. 

This  is  a  beautiful  spot,  but  horribly  snaky,  if  any  one  part  of 
India  can  be  more  so  than  another.  Besides  centij^edes  and 
scorpions  found  in  every  place,  all  venomous,  and  only  differing 

It  is  customary  for  the  servants  to  speak  English,  otherwise  you  would  not 
know  in  which  one  of  half-a-dozen  dialects  a  servant  would  address  you. 
"Whereas,  in  the  other  presidencies,  none  will  have  a  servant  who  is  known 
to  speak  English,  as  it  is  generally  presumptive  evidence  he  is  a  rascal.  The 
missionary  presses  in  India,  print  the  Bible  in  most  of  these  languages. 


200  FKOM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASUMERE. 

in  grade  of  venom.  Coming  home  last  night  from  the  Judge's, 
the  servant  carrying  a  lantern  by  the  Judge's  advice,  that  I 
might  avoid  them  il'  in  the  path,  just  before  I  reached  the 
bungalow  door  there  lay  a  large  one  a  few  feet  in  front,  which 
the  servant  soon  killed.  This  morning  a  large  one,  fifteen  or 
sixteen  feet  long,  was  found  caught  in  the  bars  of  the  Judge's 
chicken  yard ;  he  had  got  through,  swallowed  an  old  hen,  and 
was  stuck  in  getting  back.  I  am  most  careful  to  have  my  mus- 
quito  bars  well  tucked  in.  But  one  gets  used  to  these  little 
drawbacks  as  they  do  to  the  earthquakes  in  the  West  Indies. 

The  coast  is  indented  with  small  harbors  the  entire  distance 
from  Goa.  Soil  very  fertile,  and  abundance  of  shooting  from 
tigers  down  ;  among  the  varied  game  is  a  kind  of  wild  bull,  very 
dangerous  when  wounded.  Within  three  days  past  I've  collected 
twenty-three  kinds  of  seeds  for  you.  Every  nook  and  corner  of 
bags  and  trunks  has  something  in  that  line  stowed  away. 

April  8,  GussuPPA. — Letter  after  letter — the  ink  hardly  dry 
on  one  before  another  commenced.  An  editor's  labors  of  writing, 
sick  or  well,  are  nothing  to  a  poor  traveller's,  for  he  adds  tired  to 
the  other  catalogue  of  complaints ;  besides  receiving  the  "  siller," 
whereas  the  traveller  is  always  disbursing  it.  Sold  one  horse, 
and  dispatched  the  other  across  the  country  to  Seringapatam,  with 
two  servants  to  lead  him.  Such  is  the  strictness  of  the  police 
here,  that  if  a  man  were  seen  riding  his  master's,  or  any  nice 
horse,  he  would  be  taken  up,  unless  he  could  show  a  written 
authority  to  do  so.  I  gave  my  servant  a  note  addressed  gene- 
rally to  all  officials  on  the  road,  to  give  him  any  assistance  he 
might  require,  stating  "he  is  to  lead  my  horse  to  Seringa- 
patam." 

I  am  now  off  with  my  cook  for  "  Gussuppa  Falls,"  the  "  ISTiaga- 
ra"  of  India.  The  sail  up  the  river  was  cool  and  pleasant.  Eeached 
the  termination  of  it  at  two  in  the  morning,  took  to  the  mun- 
chil,  an  awful  up  hill  journey,  frequently  holding  on  with  both 
hands  to  keep  from  sliding  out.    Once  we  did  get  "  stuck."    The 


CURIOUS  FISH.  201 

Coolies-''  are  to  stay  until  I  return  for  "  batta,"  an  extra  compen- 
sation of  tliree  cents  each,  which  has  put  them  all  in  good 
humor. 

At  present  the  fall  of  water  is  comparatively  small,  in  the  rainy 
season  a  foaming  river.  The  current  of  air  came  up  the  semi- 
circular ravine — into  which  the  water  falls  a  perpendicular  height 
of  915  feet — with  so  much  force  that  it  returns  the  water  in  a 
beautiful  column  of  spray,  glittering  in  the  sun's  rays  like  bil- 
lions of  diamonds,  and  rising  fifty  or  sixty  feet  above  where  it 
started.  From  sunrise  to  sunset  rainbows  rest  on  the  clouds  of 
spray.  To-day's  journal  I  expect  you  will  doubly  prize,  from 
the  cruelty  I  was  obliged  to  indulge  in,  of  a  feather  from  a 
chicken's  wing  for  a  pen.  More  seeds  to-da}^,  so  you  see  I  don't 
let  this  magnificent  waterfall  divert  my  attention  from  "  Flora." 
In  a  stream  near  the  fall  saw  some  curious  fish,  one  with  a  large 
oval  body  and  long  thin  tail,  red  spots  behind  its  eyes,  and  a 
spotted  body,  the  body  transparent  and  entrails  coiled  up  like  a 
watch-spring,  also  the  heart  and  lungs  in  operation.  Made 
several  sketches.  The  fall  is  not  generally  known,  people  travel 
so  little  here,  it's  expensive  and  troublesome.  One  has  to  take 
such  a  retinue  with  such  a  quantity  of  etceteras ;  and  then  the 
slow  method,  twelve  miles  a  day.  I  do  double  that,  but  then  I 
go  light,  and  am  comparatively  in  haste. 

April  10,  HoxAHWAR. — A  charming  sail  down  the  river,  the 
scenery  is  unusually  fine.  With  the  clear  sky  and  morning  or 
evening  mists  the  tints  are  superb. 

The  foliage  embracing  every  variety  that  is  oriental,  of  fruit, 
ornamental  and  useful.  At  the  Bungalow  found  a  servant  with 
a  note  from  the  Judge  for  breakfast  and  dinner,  also  two  gentle- 
men in  the  same  way  as  myself,  sleeping  here,  and  at  other  times 
enjoying  the  Judge's  hospitality.    He  is  going  home  shortly.    He 

*  Coolies  mean  the  commoa  laborers,  -who  have  no  regular  business  besides 
working  as  porters  or  at  any  hard  labor. 


202  FROi[   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

has  been  here  forty  years,  and  been  Judge  thirty.  He  is  now  quite 
the  patriarch  of  the  station,  looked  up  to  and  esteemed  by  all 
who  know  him.  After  breakfast  to  church,  a  gift  to  the  station 
from  him.  In  the  absence  of  the  chaplain  he  and  the  Doctor 
perform  service.  The  congregation  consisted  of  our  breakfast 
party  and  a  few  military  subordinates.  In  the  enthusiasm  of 
butler  to  sell  off"  my  travelling  kit  he  almost  got  down  to  my 
wardrobe.  All  the  afternoon  it  has  been  thundering  violently 
and  lightening,  so  I  had  a  note  from  the  Judge  not  to  go,  but  come 
up  and  tea  with  him.     Being  under  orders  I  obeyed. 

At  Sea,  April  11,  12,  13.  ■ — Pleasant  sail,  constantly  in 
sight  of  land,  passed  a  few  harbors  and  generally  flat  shore. 
Yesterday  passed  the  towns  of  Mangalore  and  Cannanore. 
Last  night  was  magnificently  grand,  incessant  sharp  flashes  of 
lightning,  and  the  water  so  phosphorescent  that  with  the 
agitation  from  the  heavy  surges  and  the  breaking  of  their 
foaming  crests  as  they  rolled  towards  the  shore,  the  sea 
looked  like  a  raging  mass  of  "living  fire."  Brilliant  flashes  of 
lightning  momentarily  on  every  side,  and  only  eclipsed  by  the 
astounding  bursts  that  every  half  minute  changed  the  black 
gloomy  sky  to  a  canopy  of  flame  that  would  have  almost  dim- 
med a  mid-day  sun.  But  grand  as  the  sight  was  I  should  have 
admired  it  more  from  the  land,  than  in  my  little  yacht  with  a 
prospective  gale  and  rocky  lee-shore.  The  craft,  small  as  she 
was,  a  perfect  life-preserver  in  her  way  and  a  curiosity  too,  cram- 
med in  every  nook  and  corner  with  a  kind  of  pith,  ten  times  as 
buoyant  as  cork,  and  the  lockers  formed  of  light  canoes  ready 
to  be  lashed  together  and  thrown  overboard  in  case  of  necessity. 
Luckily  all  passed  off  quietl}-,  and  we  reached  Calicut  harbor  or 
roadstead  at  eleven,  not  going  ashore.     I  date  at  sea. 

My  old  butler  being  indisposed  to  go  any  further  from  home, 
said  he  was  very  sick,  so  I  got  another,  a  perfect  "  magnifico," 
who  says  his  prayers  about  six  times  a  day,  from  fear  or  rascality, 
I  do  not  know  which  motive;  so  I  shall  keep  a  strict  watch  on 


Sketched  by  the  Author. 


See  page  16~ 


PARiEK  AND  SHOP,  POONAH. 


SOCIETY  AT   CALICUT.  203 

liim.  When  especially  devotional  tliey  usually  have  some  vil- 
lainy ahead.  I  did  not  know  but  he  would  rub  the  skin  off  his 
face  and  feet  by  his  frequent  ablutions,  or  else  wear  a  hole  in  his 
forehead  by  his  multitudinous  genuflexions  and  bumpings. 

April  14,  Calicut. — Came  ashore  at  daybreak.  Put  uj)  at 
the  travellers'  bungalow.     After  breakfast  called,  and  presented 

my  letter  from  Judge  L to  his  son-in-law,  Judge  "W , 

who  proposed  I  should  stay  with  him  and  prolong  my  visit,  but 
my  arrangements  would  not  admit  of  it,  so  I  declined.  He  gave 
me  all  the  information  as  to  my  route  he  could,  and  a  note 

to  the  collector,  Mr.  C ,"'^  who  was  the  officer  to  expedite 

me.  I  called,  found  him  a  very  pleasant  person,  and  one  of 
the  very  few  who  had  ever  travelled  in  India.  He  spoke 
enthusiastically  of  our  missionaries  in  both  northern  and  south- 
ern India,  many  of  whom  he  knew,  among  them  a  Mr.  Lowery, 
who  had  succeeded  in  gaining  great  influence  over  Eunjet  Singh 
the  then  ruler  of  the  Punjaub,  who  allowed  him  to  establish 
missionary  stations,  and  on  his  departure  insisted  upon  his  accept- 
ing a  large  present  for  himself,  which  he  could  only  get  off  from 
by  accepting  it  for  the  missionary  society.  As  it  is  a  great  fes- 
tival the  Cutwal  cannot  start  before  to-morrow.     Mr.    C 

gave  me  an  invitation  to  stay  with  him,  but  I  declined,  as  I  could 
not  move,  but  I  accepted  an  invitation  to  dinner.  I  spent  a  most 
pleasant  evening  and  was  surprised  to  find  them  so  "well  up  " 
about  America  and  American  books,  Stephens,  Prescott,  etc. 
Usually  English  people  ignore  all  knowledge  of  our  country. 
In  India  we  are  generally  very  well  understood. 

In  this  part  of  the  country,  instead  of  a  turban,  the  people  wear 
a  curious  hat  like  a  fig  drum,  with  a  round,  flat  palm-leaf  "  roof" 
about  two  feet  in  diameter.  The  women  have  less  show  of 
decency  than  any  I've  met  with  in  India;   they  are  perfectly 

*  A  cousin,  I  afterwards  learned,  of  some  of  my  most  particular  friends  and 
acquaintances  in  India  and  England.  He  was  savagely  and  unprovokedly 
murdered  about  two  years  since  by  some  fanatic  half-crazy  natives. 


204  FROJI    WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

nude  above  their  hips.  I  am  surjDriscd  the  authorities  don't 
enforce  Portuguese  regulations  in  the  towns  or  villages.  In  Goa 
every  man  seen  without  a  long  gown  or  trowsers  is  arrested, 
imprisoned  several  days,  and  fined,  so  that  as  the  boats  approach 
the  shore  you  see  the  fellows  hurrying  on  their  trowsers.  The 
external  show  of  decency  made  by  the  Spaniards,  and  Portuguese, 
is  quite  amusing  when  they  are  so  known  to  be  notoriously  the 
most  licentious  people  in  Europe — and  yet  scarcely  admitting  the 
least  particle  of  nudity  in  a  statue  that  would  pass  quite  unno- 
ticed among  the  strictest  of  us. 

A'pril  15,  Calicut. — Obliged  to  lose  a  day  here,  I  made  the 
most  of  it  to  get  "  set  up  "  again  by  tailors  and  tinkers.  They 
have  a  custom  in  India  that  when  one  goes  out  to  dine,  he  always 
takes  his  servant  to  wait  upon  him  at  table.  Yesterday,  when 
I  dined  at  the  collector's,  my  servant  was  perfectly  resplendent, 
"got  up  quite  regardless  of  expense."  A  flaming  red  turban  as 
large  as  a  band-box,  brilliant  scarlet  and  yellow  silk  pantalettes 
appearing  below  his  flowing,  white  gown  and  crimson  sash — with 
a  molasses  candy  looking  cane. 

This  place  is  one  of  the  regular  starting  points  on  this  side  for 
the  Neilgherries,  a  lofty  range  of  hills  and  the  great  sanitarium 
of  this  part  of  India.  The  elevated  position  and  climate  being 
the  best  this  side  of  the  Himalayas,  or  short  of  "  the  Continent." 
There  is  nothing  of  any  interest  in  the  place.  It  is  composed  of 
a  large  number  of  native  huts  on  the  sea  shore — only  a  miserable 
shadow  of  former  greatness.  It  had  once  the  largest  commerce 
of  any  city  on  the  Malabar  coast.  Here  Vasco  de  Gama,  the  first 
Portuguese  navigator  in  these  seas,  landed  about  the  latter  part 
of  1497.  His  wonderful  account  of  the  country  caused  another 
expedition  to  be  sent,  which  was  entrusted  to  the  command  of 
Alvarez  Cabral,  consisting  of  a  large  fleet  and  land  force.  Nor 
was  the  church  forgotten — for  eight  Franciscan  friars  accompanied 
the  expedition,  which  was  instructed  "  to  carry  fire  and  sword 
into  every  nation  that  would  not  listen  to  their  preaching." 


HISTORICAL  KEMINISCENCES.  205 

Cabral  obtained  permission  to  establish  a  factory  here ;  but  after 
a  short  time,  difficulties  arising  between  his  people  and  the 
Mahommedans  who  quarrelled  in  every  place,  the  factory  was 
destroyed,  and  the  Portuguese  put  to  death,  to  revenge  a  capture 
by  them  of  some  Mahommedan  vessels.  About  that  time  the 
Pope  conferred  on  the  King  of  Portugal  dominion  of  all  the 
eastern  countries  which  his  fleets  might  discover.  The  King 
assumed  the  right  under  that  authority,  to  take  possession  of  all 
territories  he  could,  by  peace  if  possible,  if  not,  by  conquest,  and 
convert  them  to  the  Eomish  faith.  The  King  then  sent  a  third 
General  (Albuquerque)  with  a  fleet  and  army.  The  Sultan  of 
Egypt  finding  his  lucrative  commerce  with  India  stopped  by 
these  wars,  and  his  ships  plundered,  sent  a  large  fleet  to  revenge 
the  injuries  his  subjects  and  others  of  his  faith  had  suffered. 
Then  ensued  a  general  war  of  reprisal  along  the  coast  of  India 
and  Arabia,  between  the  Portuguese  and  all  Mussulmen,  during 
which  Calicut  was  burnt  several  times.  The  chief  points  of 
severe  conflict  were  Diu  in  Gujerat,  and  Goa,  which  was  conquered 
by  Albuquerque  in  1510,  and  made  the  Portuguese  capital  in 
India.  This  was  at  one  time  subjected  to  a  siege — the  most 
remarkable  of  any  in  the  annals  of  European  warfare  in  India — 
in  which  the  native  allied  forces  from  the  Malabar  coast  and 
Mahratta  kingdom,  amounting  to  more  than  100,000,  besieged  it 
in  vain  for  two  years,  and  were  then  obliged  to  retire  after  great 
loss.  The  Portuguese  at  one  time  possessed  almost  the  entire 
western  coast  of  India,  besides  much  on  the  coast  of  Africa  and 
Arabia.  Albuquerque  greatly  enlarged  the  Portuguese  power 
in  India,  and  his  government  has  always  been  considered  as 
the  most  successful  and  brilliant  period  of  their  reign  in  this 
country. 

About  1576  the  Dutch  engas-ed  in  the  Eastern  trade,  which 

DO  ' 

soon  involved  them  in  a  war  with  the  Portuguese,  in  which  the 
former  quickly  gained  the  ascendancy.  The  English,  finding  the 
Dutch  and  Portuguese  gaining  so  much  advantage  by  their 
trade  with  India,  formed  an  association  in  1600,  and  obtained  an 


206  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

act  of  incorporation  under  the  title  of  "  The  Governor  and  Com- 
pany of  ^Icrchants  of  London  trading  to  the  East  Indies." 

This  association,  under  various  charters  and  titles,  the  stock 
owned  by  people  of  all  ranks  and  professions,  and  both  sexes,  has 
continued  to  exist  until  the  present  year.  Now,  owing  to  political 
capitalists,  trucklers  to  party,  and  meddlers  who  meddle  on  the 
principle  of  meddling  alone,  they  have  excited  partisan  spirit  at 
home ;  while  others  w^ere  floating  backwards  and  forwards  from 
England  to  India,  collecting  choice  morgeaux  of  cruelty,  oppres- 
sion, and  misgovernment,  (as  some  few  I  could  name),  who,  going 
to  India  for  such  purposes,  associated  with  none  but  disappointed 
Englishmen,  or  dregs  of  Parsees,  and  others.  Learning  the  ima- 
ginary discontents  of  natives,  more  deeply  dyed  in  political  deceit 
and  fraud  than  even  they  could  be  with  all  the  delectable  school- 
ing their  "  errand  of  mercy"  required — a  people  with  whom 
deceit,  fraud,  and  every  base  quality  in  a  superlative  degree,  and  a 
total  absence  of  any  quality  we  should  consider  estimable,  which 
are  not  only  absent  but  unknown — not  even  a  word  or  idea  in 
their  language  to  express  them — were  considered  the  highest 
virtues.  They  were  anxious  to  have  any  change  that  would  rid 
them  of  a  government  that  was  benefiting  their  country,  improv- 
ing and  enriching  it  in  every  way  by  railroads  and  other  roads, 
rendering  their  rivers  navigable,  introducing  machinery,  canals, 
the  telegraph,  and  commerce.  Affording  them  safety  for  proper- 
t}^,  a  systematic  taxation,  courts  of  justice — and  justice  in  these 
courts — in  fact  a  system  of  civilization  conducted  with  such  an 
energetic,  steady  course  of  progress  that  no  one  could  imagine  it 
as  a  possibility  wnth  so  small  a  capital  to  work  with,  and  much 
more  to  realize  it,  unless  they  actually  saw  it,  and  then  their 
amazement  would  increase  as  they  saw  the  difficulties  to  be  con- 
tended with  at  every  step — difficulties  from  extent  of  country 
and  almost  innumerable  population — difficulties  of  prejudice 
from  the  entire  novelty  of  the  system  to  what  they  were  un- 
accustomed w^here  money,  power,  or  fraud  alone  were  the 
stepping-stones   to  influence  or  success,  and  difficulties  of  re- 


THE   EAST  INDIA   COMPANY.  207 

ligion,  and  caste,  embracing  ignorance,  superstition,  and  fana- 
ticism ! 

Such  "were  the  people  from  whom  these  meddlers  and  political 
disorganizers  got  their  valuable  information,  and  moved  the  poli- 
tical machine  that  has  eventually  worked  the  East  India  Com- 
pany's Charter  into  a  nullity,  and  the  "  Home  Government"  into 
the  actual  control. 

This  Company,  by  almost  incredible  energy,  with  very  little 
assistance  from  "  home,"  like  England's  other  child  in  America, 
but  with  its  own  right  hand  of  might  and  energy,  gradually 
drove  out  successively,  Dutch,  Portuguese  except  at  Goa,  and 
French  excej)t  at  their  few  little  sj^ots  held  like  the  Portuguese, 
by  sufferance,  and  adding  to  their  few  small  settlements  or  fac- 
tories on  the  coast,  province  upon  province,  as  the  rulers  and 
people  of  each  successive  province  compelled  them  to  annex  them 
to  prevent  their  constant  inroads  and  wars,  (for  with  the  natives 
in  India  there  is  no  middle  course,  you  must  belong  to  them 
or  they  to  you,  forbearance  is  aliuays  considered  the  result 
of  weakness  or  cowardice),  until  the  vast  territory  of  India, 
together  with  part  of  Burmah,  various  islands  and  places  in  the 
Indian  Ocean,  belonged  to  what  was  once  a  small  company  of 
trading  merchants,  now  a  mighty  empire ;  with  until  lately,  a 
well  officered  and  disciplined  army  of  over  300,000  native  sol- 
diers, but  with  less  than  5,000  English  officers.  Troops  that 
furnished  the  first  instance  on  record  of  crossing  bayonets  (and 
successfully !  crossing  them  when  alone  and  unsupported  by 
English  troops),  with  the  French,  and  defeating  them — made 
Bernadotte  a  prisoner  (then  a  sergeant),  afterwards  King  of 
Sweden.  So  efficient  were  the  police  that  officers'  wives  were  con- 
stantly travelling  alone,  in  every  part  of  India,  in  their  journeys 
between  the  seaports  and  their  husbands'  stations,  and  in  their 
trips  to  and  from  England.  Travel  was  safer  in  every  respect, 
and  a  lady  more  secure  from  insult,  besides  an  object  of  respect 
and  attention,  than  in  any  country  in  the  world.  The  country 
has,  besides  developing  English  energy,  been  a  school  for  many 


208  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

of  her  best  officers.  The  Duke  of  Wellington,  and  many  otliers 
of  brilliant  name,  first  "  won  their  spurs"  fighting  the  Company's 
battles.  It  also  furnished  a  lucrative  source  of  employment  to 
thousands  of  the  youth  of  England  in  the  army  or  civil  employ- 
ment. 

April  16,  Anunpoor  Bungalow. — This  is  the  biennial  anni- 
versary of  my  departure  from  home.  Twelve  o'clock  to-night 
will  make  out  the  two  years — to  an  hour  I  presume.  Last  year 
on  this  day  of  the  month,  I  was  on  top  of  Mount  Tabor,  the 
Mount  of  the  Transfiguration.  It  was  stormy  then,  and  same 
now,  as  if  to  remind  me  of  the  terrible  gale  I  sailed  in  from  home. 
Started  at  five  yesterday  afternoon.  Had  a  delightful  row  of 
twenty  miles,  which,  owing  to  shoals  and  turns,  took  ten  hours. 
The  boat  was  well  adapted  for  rowing.  It  had  a  nice  cabin,  and 
eight  stout  oarsmen,  besides  two  paddlers  in  the  stern.  The  sce- 
nery of  the  wildest  description,  with  a  dense  jungle  of  under- 
brush, forest  trees,  and  graceful  palms.  Occasionally  a  stone 
cabin  peered  through  the  brush,  now  and  then  a  large  blazing 
fire  producing  a  singu.lar  effect.  The  only  living  objects  to  be 
seen  on  or  near  the  river,  an  occasional  native  in  his  light  canoe 
or  the  scattered  rice  boats,  long  narrow  canoes  covered  over 
tightly  with  reed  and  thatch,  looking  like  a  long  snake  gliding 
over  the  surface.  Our  crew  rowed  merrily,  singing  hour  after 
hour  without  flagging,  most  methodistical  tunes — the  two  rear 
boatmen  with  stentorian  lungs  leading  ofi:'  with  a  sentence,  which 
the  six  forward  ones  repeated.  As  the  last  note  died  away  with 
the  farthest  one,  they  all  repeated  in  chorus,  the  two  stern  ones 
leading.  It  was  very  agreeable  and  musical.  It  was  so  animating 
I  almost  fancied  myself  at  a  "  camp  meeting."  I've  not  heard  any- 
thing in  the  way  of  boat-music  like  it,  since  the  Halee-Halee 
Yallah  Hae  of  the  Egyptian  boatmen  going  into  Thebes  or  Cairo 
of  an  evening.  On  landing  found  my  Coolies  and  munchil. 
They  loaded  up  and  we  started  ofi*.  For  a  distance  they  followed 
the  course  of  the  river,  but  the  rapid  current  disconcerted  them ; 


'/    ,d'>i  'n|^'||L 


'".ORR-i;.Y.  I 

Sketched  by  the  Autlior. 


VIEW   OF    KAULEE   CAVE   TEMPLE. 


page  163. 


AN   UPSET.  209 

they  got  into  deep  water  wliicli,  tliougli  not  over  three  feet,  was 
quite  enough  when  so  rapid,  with  a  head  load  or  munchil  to  un- 
steady their  steps ;  and  I  trembled  for  my  baggage.  My  hands  were 
busy  each  side  as  I  lay  in  the  munchil,  measuring  the  distance 
between  it  and  the  water — at  last  it  reached  about  three  inches^  and  I 
began  to  feel  uncomfortable,  when  in  the  midst  of  it  my  bearers 
stopped  to  have  a  word  war  with  the  baggage  Coolies,  who  were 
plunging  about  on  the  other  side  of  the  stream.  Just  then  I  saw 
ray  cook  barely  keeping  headway.  My  bearers  started  off  and 
soon  reached  shoal  water,  which  relieved  me  from  the  calcula- 
tions and  probabilities  of  managing  to  escape  out  of  this 
affair,  if  dropped  in  the  stream  with  an  envelope  of  curtain  and 
pole. 

Crossed  the  river  this  morning  again,  at  Erola,  where  were 
a  large  number  of  rice  canoes,  and  people  boiling  sugar  cane ; 
then  on  through  a  wild  country  to  this  place,  gathering  some 
seeds  by  the  way.  One  of  my  four  bearers  slipped  in  crossing  a 
mud  hole,  which  upset  the  other,  and  let  me  "  down  by  the  head," 
any  way  but  pleasantly.  Here  I  must  rest  all  day,  and  part  of 
the  night,  as  the  bearers  say  a  jungle  is  to  be  crossed,  which  is 
frequented  by  elephants,  that  are  very  troublesome.  But  as  I 
don't  believe  the  story,  we've  compromised  on  a  start  at  two  in 
the  morning,  wind  and  weather  permitting.  At  present,  it  is 
thundering  and  looks  stormy  ;  so  I  shall  hope  for  the  best. 

April  17,  SissiPARAH  Bungalow. — At  four  this  morning 
started — the  last  twelve  miles  a  steep  climb,  with  sharp  turns, 
and  I  could  often  feel  the  bottom  of  the  munchil  striking  against 
the  stones.  The  scenery  as  we  wound  up  the  Ghauts  was  magnifi- 
cent.    The  views  from  these  hills  are  considered  among  the 

grandest  in  India.    Three  quarters  of  the  way  up,  Mr.  W 

passed  me,  though  he  left  a  night  later ;  he  had  relays  of  horses  on 
the  road,  the  one  he  was  then  riding  being  a  remarbably  fine  Pegu 
pony,  about  eleven  hands  high,  with  immense  breadth  of  chest 
and  back.     Since  Pegu  has  become  an  English  province,  immense 

14 


210  FRO^[   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

numbers  of  these  ponies  are  imported  for  "  hacks  "  and  "  hill  work," 
for  which  with  their  great  strength  they  are  admirably  adapted. 

Shortly  after  reaching  the  bungalow,  Major   11 ,  an 

officer  in  one  of  the  Queen's  regiments,  arrived.  We  were  soon 
acquainted,  and  discussed  most  socially  over  "  the  mahogany" 
the  joint  contents  of  our  hampers,  and  etceteras.  In  the  course 
of  conversation,  I  found  my  people  had  dubbed  me  "  Engineer 
Allen,"  for  they  are  as  bad  as  Irish  servants  at  getting  my  name 
correctly.  I've  tried  in  vain  to  make  my  fellows  believe  I  am 
not  in  the  service,  and  drop  the  title.  But  as  it  increases  their 
importance,  and  engineers  are  influential  men,  they  are  sure  to 
attach  it  to  me  whenever  they  can,  and  my  sketching  tends  to 
confirm  their  story. 

April  18,  AvELANCH  Bungalow. — The  cool  air  of  last  evening 
was  most  refreshing  after  the  hot  weather  I've  been  enduring  down 
on  the  plains,  though  the  change  was  so  great  I  thought  I  should 
freeze.  This  morning  I  collected  six  or  seven  new  kinds  of  seeds 
from  pretty  flowering  plants  and  trees.  Saw  many  other  plants 
in  bloom,  but  too  early  for  seeds.  To-day  over  hills  and  through 
small  valleys  but  gradually  ascending,  and  am  now  about  7,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  This  afternoon,  the  last  hour  before  we  got  in, 
.there  was  quite  an  exciting  race  between  our  respective  bearers, 
twelve  bearers  to  each  of  these  light  munchils,  each  party  shouting. 

H 's  munchil  had  caught  up  with  me,  and  such  a  race — 

their  grunting  chorus  in  a  defiant  tone,  as  they  trotted  along  at  full 
six  miles  an  hour  over  rocks  and  broken  roads,  with  as  dismal  a 
howl,  as  a  first  rate  "  Irish  wake  "  could  have  accomplished  with 
the  "mountain  dew"  accompaniment.  When  we  reached  this, 
found  another  ofiicer  in  possession  of  half  the  bungalow,  or 
rather  his  servants  were,  with  table  laid,  expecting  him. 

A2:)ril  19,  Ootacamund. — ^I  rose  before  daylight  this  morning 
lo  finish  my  letter  for  the  mail.  I  heard  the  butler  and  cook 
.shivering  as  they  got  me  my  breakfast.     My  two  companions  of 


AlSr   UNDULATING   COUNTRY.  211 

last  evening  were  sound  asleep.  "  Jonathan"  is  usually  awake 
before  the  "  rest  of  creation."  My  new  acquaintance  was  a  Cap- 
tain G ,  a  very  pleasant  fellow.     He  is  here  ibex  shooting. 

We  spent  last  evening  over  a  blazing  fire — rather  a  change  from 
two  nights  before,  when  I  could  not  keep  cool  with  as  few  clothes 
as  decency  would  admit  of.  My  Coolies  being  afraid  of  the  cold 
kept  me  waiting  an  hour  and  a  half  for  the  sun  to  get  fairly  up. 
A  charming  morning.  The  road  led  over  and  through  a  suc- 
cession of  hills  and  valleys  for  fifteen  miles,  with  scarce  an 
acre  of  level  land — one  of  the  peculiarities  of  this  range  of  hills. 
Very  little  is  cultivated,  and  almost  as  little  pastured,  though  it 
would  feed  hundreds  of  cattle. 

Ootacamund  presents  the  same  uneven  appearance.  Every 
hill  and  valley  is  studded  with  white  bungalows.  I  was  met  by 
the  landlord  a  short  distance  from  the  hotel — a  very  soldierly 
respectable  looking  person — supposing  him  to  be  the  "  Boniface." 
On  asking  if  he  was,  with  a  flourishing  bow  and  complaisant 
smile,  he  replied,  "  I  have  the  honor  to  be  so,"  and  accordingly 
furnished  me  with  a  very  nice  room  in  the  bachelors'  quarters. 

Soon  Major  H brought  up  the  rear  with  the  luggage.     We 

happen  to  be  the  onl}^  occupants  of  this  part  of  the  establishment. 
The  ladies'  part  is  a  very  fine  building,  formerly  the  residence  of 
my  friend  Judge  L .  Both  portions  of  the  hotel  are  delight- 
fully situated,  with  nice  grounds  and  flower  garden.  The  Major, 
who  has  been  here  before,  proposed  a  walk  this  afternoon,  and 
to  be  my  cicerone.  Being,  like  myself,  a  good  walker,  before  we 
returned  we  had  wandered  over  hill  and  dale,  view-hunting  until 
we  nearly  made  a  circuit  of  the  place.  We  passed  Judge 
W on  the  road. 

Ajml  20tk. — At  sunrise  took  a  long  walk  for  a  fine  view. 
Early  and  late  the  air  is  delightfully  cool.  In  the  middle  of  the 
day  it  is  hot,  and  there  is  the  same  liability  to  "  coup  de  soleil" 
as  on  the  plain.  Not  being  able  to  get  any  vehicle  I  walked  to 
Judge  W s,  and  sent  in  to  Mrs.  B my  card  and  letter 


212  FROM   WATJ.   STKEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

from  licr  father  Judge  L .     This  afternoon  I  saw  all  the 

"beauty  and  fashion"  of  the  place  riding  or  driving. 

April  21sL — Wc  got  horses  at  last  and  had  a  long  ride,  the 
Major  piloting  as  far  as  he  knew  the  country,  and  our  wits  sup- 
plying the  rest.  This  place  is  a  labyrinth  of  roads.  And  so 
we  scrambled  over  hills  and  through  all  sorts  of  by-paths ;  one 
turn  took  us  unexpectedly  into  the  court-yard  of  a  friend  of  the 
Major's,  who  he  thought  was  living  several  miles  distant.  Ano- 
ther brought  us  into  our  hotel  yard,  which,  as  it  was  near  break- 
fast, was  hitting  two  marks  rather  closely.  After  breakfast  I 
called  on  a  son  of  Judge  L .  He  was  in  the  midst  of  carpen- 
ters and  masons,  a  recent  gale  having  nearly  blown  his  house 
down.  He  is  a  coffee-planter.  Like  most  other  persons  he  abuses 
the  present  government  of  Madras.  They  are  not  willing  to  do 
anything  themselves,  or  allow  joint-stock  companies  to  be  formed 

for  purposes  of  business.     Mr.  L says  coffee-planting  is 

very  profitable  and  not  expensive.  Plants  well  managed,  will,  in 
eight  years,  bring  a  profit  of  treble  the  original  outlay.  While  in 
Ceylon,  coffee  must  sell  well  to  produce  twelve  per  cent. 

April  22d. — I  took  a  long  scramble  over  the  hills  for  a  sketch, 
and  after  breakfast  a  pilfering  tour  through  my  host's  garden,  so 
if  there  is  a  "  conscience  account"  to  be  settled,  I'll  refer  it  to  you. 
I  returned  with  pockets  laden  with  flowers,  seeds,  and  slips. 
To-day  I  despatched  most  of  my  things  by  carts,  under  charge 
of  the  cook,  to  Bangalore,  a  seven  days'  journey.  My  butler 
has  followed  with  my  things  to  meet  him  half  way  down  the 
Ghaut. 

April  23,  Segoor. — I  was  in  the  saddle  before  daybreak  this 
morning ;  not  a  soul  moving  but  the  Major's  servant,  with  whom 
I  left  my  "salaam"  for  his  master.  Halfway  to  the  bungalow  I 
overtook  my  cook  and  his  carts.  He  had  been  caught  in  the 
rain,  and  obliged  to  change  all  my  baggage,  their  bullocks  refusing 


MYSORE.  213 

to  go,  and  when  the  brutes  are  indisposed  to  do  so,  they  kneel 
and  stick  their  noses  in  the  dirt.  Everything  had  got  soaked, 
and  I  had  a  grand  time  drying  my  wardrobe.  Opposite  the  bun- 
galow there  is  a  beautiful  cascade,  which  I  sketched.  The  view 
descending  the  Ghaut  is  very  fine,  extending  over  the  plains  of 
Mysore.  At  the  bottom  of  the  Ghaut  I  found  my  transit  coach, 
as  they  dignify  this  two-wheeled  apparatus  drawn  by  bullocks. 

April  24,  Mysore  Bungalow. — A  few  minutes  after  I  started 
yesterday,  it  commenced  to  rain,  accompanied  by  thunder  and 
lightning,  of  which  I  had  the  full  benefit,  peal  after  peal  rever- 
berated along  the  mountains,  as  my  coach,  or  cart  (whichever 
you  prefer)  was  crawling  along  over  horrid  rough  roads.  By 
midnight  I  had  passed  the  worst  part  of  the  way — a  jungle  of  teak 
and  iron  wood.  The  former  has  an  immense  leaf,  that  of  the 
latter  is  not  much  larger  than  a  dollar.  Finding  a  bungalow,  I 
stopped  and  took  dinner  at  this  fashionable  hour — one  must  con- 
form to  fashion  wherever  he  goes.  Two  hours  after  I  passed 
another  bungalow,  and  near  it  two  gentlemen  were  enjoying  the 
storm  in  a  hut.  Then  composed  myself  to  sleep.  At  daybreak 
I  was  woke  by  my  servant  to  see  a  distant  pagoda  with  gilt 
ornaments  on  the  tower.  It  was  quite  an  unusual  thing  for  a 
Mussulman  to  notice  a  Hindoo  temple,  and  much  more  so,  for 
him  to  think  it  worth  attracting  another  person's  attention  to. 

At  nine  I  reached  Mysore  and  passed  through  the  town.  The 
principal  street  was  strongly  perfumed  w^ith  the  odor  of  tube- 
roses which  they  were  arranging  for  some  festival.  Going  out  of 
the  other  side  of  the  city,  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  at  the  bun- 
galow. Found  all  but  two  miserable  little  rooms  occupied. 
Making  myself  as  comfortable  in  them  as  circumstances  would 

admit,  I  sent  my  letter  of  introduction  from  Major  H ,  to 

Major  C ,  who  commands  the  Rajah's  troops. 

This  afternoon,  strolled  through  the  town,  which  has  been  well 
fortified  for  a  native  city.  Hyder  Ali  removed  part  of  the  forti- 
fications to  Seringapatam,  to  strengthen  that  place,  but  since  Tip- 


214  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

poo  Sultan's  death  the  liajah  has  resided  here.  The  Palace  is  a 
formidable  looking  structure  for  size,  built  of  brick,  chunam  and 
wood,  without  the  least  pretension  to  beauty.  There  are  several 
Hindoo  temples  in  the  town,  with  gilded  ornaments  on  the  tops 
of  the  towers.  Among  the  live  curiosities  are  two  bears  in  a 
cage.  This  evening  I  received  a  note  from  Major  C pro- 
mising to  call  in  the  morning,  and  saying  it  would  be  impossible 
to  see  the  palace — a  difficulty  I  apjDrehended, — as  it  is  always  a 
troublesome  affair  to  attain  in  these  countries. 

April  2o(h. — My  servant  had  just  got  my  room  in  order  this 
morning,  when  be  announced  that  the  gentleman  had  come ;  I  told 
him  to  ask  him  in,  when  whom  should  he  bring  in  but  a  fellow- 
lodger  in  the  bungalow — a  clergyman,  who  was  as  much  surprised 
at  being  brought  in,  as  I  was  at  seeing  him.     However,  we  were 

soon  in  pleasant  conversation.     Shortly  after  came  Major  C , 

a  tall,  thin  man,  whom  I  found  very  agreeable.  He  regretted 
he  had  not  been  able  to  get  me  into  the  palace,  and,  though 
thinking  it  impossible  yesterday,  had  called  this  morning,  when 
the  request  was  refused.  He  gave  me  all  the  information  to  be 
had  about  the  j^lace  and  Seringapatam.  There  is  little  to  say 
about  this  city,  it  having  always  been  of  minor  importance  until 
of  late  years — Seringapatam  having  formerly  been  the  capital  and 
citadel — even  the  French  regiments  never  came  here,  though  the 
fortifications  were  constructed  by  their  engineers. 

Major  C invited  me  to  the  "  Hill,"  where  he  is  residing 

during  the  hot  weather;  but  I  declined.  This  afternoon  I 
scratched  away  at  some  half-finished  sketches,  wrote  up  my 
journal,  and  then  took  a  "  constitutional "  on  the  ramparts.  A 
ragged  sepoy  came  up,  and  making  a  most  angular  salutation, 
tried  to  communicate  something;  at  the  same  time  an  old  grey- 
bearded  Mussulman  approached  and  with  a  profound  salaam,  put 
a  series  of  interrogatories — "Gentleman — officer — come  see? — 
make  roads? — where  going?" — evidently  my  official  rank  had 
reached  him.     I  satisfied  him  on  some  points,  but  did  not  disturb 


HISTORY   OF   IIYDER  ALL  215 

the  official  impressions.  I  then  made  a  scrawling  sketch  of  some 
pagoda  towers,  arid  part  of  the  fortifications,  as  a  souvenir — for  in 
reality  there  is  nothing  worth  sketching  here. 

Near  the  town  is  a  fine  large  tank  or  pool,  in  which  I  saw  some 
elephants  enjoying  a  bath.  Such  tanks  are  frequently  to  be  met 
with  in  this  part  of  the  country,  which  is  very  flat,  witli  light 
soil.  They  are  usually  small  streams  dammed  up  to  make  reser- 
voirs for  irrigating  the  land.  There  are  a  few  bungalows  of  the 
English  officers,  and  the  Eajah's  palace,  near  the  fort.  The 
greater  part  of  the  town  forms  a  suburb  to  the  fort.  This  was, 
and  is  the  Hindoo  town.  The  history  of  Hyder  All's  dynasty 
and  family  is  short — and  I  will  give  it  to  you  as  told  me  by 
Major  Codrington.  Hyder  Ali  was  a  Mussulman  by  birth,  and 
a  petty  officer  in  a  sort  of  police  at  Mangalore,  Calicut,  or  one  of 
the  small  towns  on  the  west  coast.  Being  clever  and  bold,  he 
gTadually  rose  in  position,  until  he  got  influence  enough  for  a 
rebellion,  when  he  dethroned  the  Hindoo  monarch,  and  installed 
himself  in  his  place,  taking  with  him  his  religious  creed.  He 
made  Seringapatam  his  capital.  It  is  strong  by  nature,  and 
vastly  more  so  by  art — ^for  he  came  to  the  throne  at  the  time  of  the 
French  and  English  contests  in  India,  and  had  the  assistance  of 
the  French  engineers.  With  the  death  of  Tippoo  Sultan,  at  the 
storming  of  Seringapatam  terminated  the  independence  of  the 
kingdom.  The  present  Eajah  (his  grandson  I  believe)  is  a  mere 
dependent  of  the  English.     They  allow  him  to  keep  about  a 

thousand  soldiers,  who  guard  the  palace.     Major  C gave 

me  a  full  account  of  the  force.  There  are  "  life  guards,"  artillery, 
hussars,  and  half-a-dozen  other  branches  of  the  service.  On  the 
Rajah's  birth-day,  they  get  up  a  mock  fight,  and  have  a  grand 

affair.     There  are  always  some  balls  brought  to  Major  C 

afterwards  with  complaints  of  the  soldiers  having  fired  them. 

Ajml  26lh,  Seringapatam.— Last  night  rose  at  two,  and  by 
three  was  off  for  this  place.  While  waiting  for  the  people  to 
pack  up  my  things,  an  officer  came  up  in  his  transit  carriage,  andi 


216  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

taking  mc,  cither  by  supposition  or  information,  for  a  brother 
officer,  commenced  "shop  talk"  (army  conversation).  Being 
tired  of  exposing  imposed  plumes,  I  talked  away  about  regi- 
mental stations,  court-martials,  "chicar"  (large  game,  tiger,  etc.), 
and  all  the  other  stereotyped  topics  of  an  Indian  officer,  leaving 
him  doubtless,  under  the  impression  that  I  was  a  "  right  jolly 
fellow,"  and  ignorant  of  my  name  and  rank  further  than  the 
butler  had  posted  hiin  up. 

At  five,  reached  this  place,  and  was  soon  installed  in  the 
palace  of  Ilydcr  Ali  and  Tippoo  Sultan.  It  is  a  very  large  two- 
story  building,  with  a  multitude  of  carved  columns  on  bases,  of 
polished  black  basalt.  The  wooden  caps  were  once  green  and 
red,  polished  and  gilded ;  but  now,  with  the  partition  wall  in 
many  places  (a  modern  invention),  are  thickly  coated  with 
whitewash.  In  front  is  a  fine  balcony,  from  which  I  saw,  in  an 
enclosure  directly  opposite  the  palace,  eiglity-four  pyramids  of 
cannon  balls — twelve-pounders  I  thought.  From  a  rough  cal- 
culation, there  w^ere  near  7.000  balls. 

Getting  a  munchil  (this  time  a  cane  bedstead  with  a  pole  and 
awning),  marched  off  with  a  guide  to  the  spot  where  the  English 
troops  entered  at  the  storming  of  Seringapatam.  It  was  an 
immensely  strong  place,  "svith  an  exterior  protection  of  a  rocky, 
rapid  river  (the  (^avery),  a  deep  moat,  and  a  tremendously  thick 
high  wall,  well  arranged  with  screens  for  cannon,  and  occasional 
batteries.  Behind  the  wall  is  a  deep  moat  filled  with  water, 
another  moat,  and  fortifications  requiring  stout  hearts  for  storm- 
ing— and  the  English  had  them. 

Here  the  Duke  of  Wellington  first  saw  severe  service.  He 
was  here  at  first  defeated  in  a  niarht  attack,  though  the  next 
night  he  was  successful.  After  the  capture  he  was  appointed  to 
the  command  of  the  place.  From  here  I  went  to  the  house 
where  the  Duke  was  said  to  have  resided.  But  about  this,  the 
munchil  men  differed — quite  an  untoward  occurrence,  and  spoil- 
ing the  romance.  A  good  guide,  with  tolerable  knowledge  of 
circumstances,  a  glowing  imagination,  and  a  good  share  of  ere- 


TOMB   AND   MOSQUE   OF   IIYDER  ALL  217 

dulity  yourself,  add  most  ostensibly  to  tlie  pleasures  of  sight- 
seeing. Facts  will  be  facts,  and  close  inspection  often  dispels  the 
enchantment  and  romance  that  distance  has  thrown  around  it, 
until  your  guide  commences  his  eloquent  account  or  history  of 
the  matter,  and  warming  with  his  theme,  almost  brings  before 
your  eyes  the  combat  at  the  walls,  or  whatever  else  the  subject 
may  be. 

I  then  went  to  Lans^-Bano-,  where  stands  the  mausoleum 
erected  by  Tippoo  Sultan  over  his  father's  remains.  Here  repose 
Hyder  Ali,  his  wife,  and  son  Tippoo  Sultan.  Turbulent,  fierce, 
and  relentless  as  they  were,  now  "  life's  fitful  fever "  o'er,  they 
rest  tranquilly  under  the  noble  dome  and  canopied  tomb  hung 
with  garlands  of  tuberoses — the  most  emblematic  flower  for  the 
native  tastes.  Opposite  is  the  mosque,  to  which  the  bigots 
refused  me  admittance.  I  told  the  "  guardiano  "  I  had  been  inside 
of  more  and  handsomer  mosques  than  he  had  ever  seen.  As 
my  speech  was  delivered  by  the  guide,  a  Hindoo  I  judged  from 
the  guardiano's,  face  there  was  an  addition  to  it.  Neither  the 
mosque  nor  tomb  are  as  handsome  or  as  large  as  those  at  Beeja- 
porc,  or  the  tomb  as  fine  as  the  one  at  Aurungabad.  The  tomb 
was  the  only  thing  to  sketch,  as  it  was  historically  interesting. 
So  I  went  up  to  the  top  room  of  the  gateway  of  the  garden,  and 
there,  crosslegged  in  the  window,  sat  and  sketched  it. 

The  tomb  and  the  mosque  are  situated  on  a  large  terrace.  I 
next  went  to  the  summer  garden  of  Tippoo  and  his  father.  It 
is  a  curious  building,  somewhat  in  Saracenic  style.  On  the 
exterior  walls  is  an  almost  invisible  painting,  representing  the 
defeat  of  Colonel  Bailie  by  Hyder  Ali  and  Tippoo  Sultan.  It 
is  a  very  curious  affair,  but  so  injured  by  time  and  exposure  it 
is  nearly  obliterated.  Went  on  to  the  gateway  where  Tippoo 
was  killed  in  trying  to  escape  during  the  siege.  Thence  to  the 
Hall  of  Audience,  where  he  was  sitting  in  the  full  confidence  of 
the  impregnability  of  his  stronghold,  when  a  cannon  ball  struck 
a  column  about  twenty  feet  from  the  spot.  Thence  I  went  to  the 
top  of  the  minaret  of  a  mosque,  where  I  had  a  fine  view.     The 


218  FROil  "WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

fortifications  were  immensely  strong,  the  result  of  experienced 
French  engineer  officers,  of  whom  there  was  a  large  number  in 
the  army,  and  even  after  the  former  visitation  of  the  British  to 
the  walls,  there  had  been  for  six  years  previous  to  the  last 
attack,  six  thousand  men  at  work  strengthening  them.  Now  to 
the  bungalow  and  off  for  Bangalore,  for  the  climate  is  too  sickly 
for  a  stranger  to  think  of  sleeping  here. 

April  27th,  Bangalore. — I  had  a  pleasant  journey  on  to  this 
place,  though  nothing  of  particular  interest  was  to  be  seen  on 
the  way.  The  country  is  undulating,  the  soil  very  light,  com- 
pared with  that  on  the  western  coast  of  India,  or  the  interior  of 
the  Bombay  Presidency.  At  midnight  stopped  at  a  famous  large 
bungalow  for  dinner. 

This  morning,  coming  in,  saw  a  number  of  tombs ;  and  the 
fort  of  Bangalore,  which  was  stormed,  after  a  severe  battle  had 
been  fought  under  it  during  the  Carnatic  wars.  It  is  now  onlv 
a  monument  to  the  officers  who  fell.  At  the  bungalow  I  satisfied  a 
ravenous  appetite.    This  much  accomplished,  I  took  a  carriage  and 

called  to  present  my  letter  of  introduction  from  Judge  L to 

Captain  M •.     I  found  him  at  home,  and  was  much  puzzled 

at  his  taciturn  manner,  so  different  from  the  frank,  friendly  air 

described  by  Judge  L .      But  that  soon  vanished  as  the 

cause  came  out.  After  a  few  minutes  of  dry  conversation,  he  said 
he  had  been  trying  to  see  how  he  could  accommodate  me  in  his 
bungalow,  but  found  he  would  not  be  able  to  make  me  comfort- 
able, as  he  already  had  one  friend  staying  with  him,  and  was 
hourly  expecting  another  with  his  wife,  and  his  house  was  small. 
So  he  suggested  the  hotel  as  the  most  comfortable  arrangement 
he  could  propose,  I  soon  relieved  him  from  any  embarrass- 
ment by  remarking  that,  I  thought  he  had  already  engaged  to 
accommodate  more  friends,  than  ought  to  be  required  of  any 
bachelor. 

One  o'clock  sounded  from  the  "  mess  house  "  of  his  regiment, 
a  short  distance  off,  so  he  proposed  we  should  go  over  and  take 


A  REGIMENTAL   DINNER.  219 

"  tiffin."  I  was  there  introduced  to  many  of  liis  fellow-officers, 
tliougli  most  of  his  regiment,  (the  artillery)  are  in  Eangoon 
(Burmah.)  We  then  had  a  game  of  billiards  and  returned  to  his 
house.  He  apologized  for  not  asking  me  to  dine,  as  he  was 
engaged  for  a  dinner  party  at  his  colonel's,  and  most  of  the  other 
members  of  the  "  mess "  were  to  join  dinner  parties,  or  other 
messes.  But  he  engaged  me  for  the  next  day,  and  to  drive  out 
with  him  that  afternoon.  I  had  a  pleasant  drive  with  him  and 
heard  the  band,  of  which  there  is  one  from  some  one  of  the 
regiments,  playing  every  evening.  There  is  a  circle  of  two  or 
three  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  in  which  the  band  plays,  and 
around  which  the  carriages  drive,  and  all  the  ladies  and  gentle- 
men of  the  station  meet  there  in  carriages,  cabs,  dog  carts,  or  the 
saddle,  for  a  pleasant  hour  to  hear  the  music  and  see  each  other. 
I  then  drove  home. 

April  28. — At  twelve  I  drove  to  Captain  M 's,  and  whiled 

away  most  of  the  day  at  his  house,  reading  papers,  or  talking 
with  hmi  and  other  officers  there,  or  at  the  mess  house.  This 
afternoon  drove  with  some  of  the  officers,  and  this  evening  dined 
at  the  mess.  It  was  my  first  regimental  dinner — quite  a  pleasing 
novelty — a  dinner  company  composed  entirely  of  officers,  all  in 
undress — no  one  being  allowed  to  come  in  citizen's  dress.  The 
dinner  service  was  very  handsome,  it  belonged  to  the  regiment, 
as  is  always  the  case  in  the  English  or  Company's  service,  where 
all  the  officers  are  obliged  to  dine  together  at  a  mess,  and  married 
officers  once  or  twice  a  week,  and  thus  by  successive  purcl^ases 
and  gifts,  after  a  few  years,  it  becomes  very  large  and  elegant. 

Capt.  ;M invited  me  to  go  and  see  his  regiment,  (the  light 

artillery)  exercise  the  next  morning.  He  had  got  the  Colonel  to 
order  them  out,  or  what  was  left  of  the  regiment  in  India,  as  he 
thought  I  should  be  pleased  to  see  them.  As  my  horse  had  not 
yet  arrived,  he  offered  to  give  me  "a  mount,"  and  have  him  on 
the  ground  for  me. 


220  FRO:^[   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Ajyril  29. — As  everything  military  is  done  at  an  early  hour  in 
India  on  account  of  the  heat,  I  was  off  shortly  after  four  for  the 
plain.  As  I  passed  the  hussar  lines,  they  there  mounting  for  a 
drill,  and  the  artillery  was  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  officers. 

In  a  few  minutes  they  came  up,  and  Captain  M 's  servant 

followed,  leading  a  beautiful  little  chestnut  Arab — one  of  his  race 
horses.  We  all  galloped  off  to  the  plain ;  and  after  two  hours 
manoeuvring,  in  which  they  performed  admirably,  and  I  was 
much  interested,  they  were  dismissed,  and  greatly  to  my  delight 
too,  for  the  little  Arab  I  rode,  was  just  out  of  training  for  racing, 
and  though,  when  walking,  very  quiet,  the  moment  I  put  him 
on  a  gallop,  as  I  was  obliged  to  do  occasionally  to  more  closely 
observe  the  manoeuvres,  and  sometimes  to  avoid  the  unex- 
pected evolutions  of  the  regiment,  the  galloping  of  the  regi- 
ment set  him  wild,  and  he  was  soon  off  at  full  speed,  and  almost 
eyery  instant  with  his  head  between  his  legs,  and  heels  in  the 
air  as  if  a  good  run  with  such  antics  was  the  funniest  thing  in 
the  world.  In  this  opinion  we  did  not  at  all  agree ;  for  he  being 
much  below  the  ordinary  height  of  a  saddle  horse,  and  my  length 
of  leg  rather  greater  than  the  standard,  added  to  a  nicely  kept 
saddle,  as  smooth  as  if  polished,  and  well  ironed  drilling  trow- 
sers,  I  was  in  momentary  danger  of  being  "  spilt,"  and  run  over 
by  the  gun  carriages  or  horses ;  for,  though  in  good  practice,  I 
was  sadly  at  a  loss  to  manage  such  a  superfluity  of  legs  on  the 
diminutive  body  of  this  fantastic  brute. 

As  we  rode  back,  M asked  me  to  be  introduced  to  his 

colonel,  a  pleasant  person,  with  whom  I  had  some  fifteen  minutes 
conversation,  when  he  bid  us  good  morning.     Then  the  other 

officers  and  I  continued   on   with   M to   his   house  for 

breakfast;  we  were  soon  joined  by  some  of  the  officers  of  the 

15th  Hussars,  who  dropped  in  as  they  said,  to  try  M 's  "brew 

of  tea,"  hearing  it  was  the  best  in  the  cantonment.  After  break- 
fast, we  all  went  out  to  look  at,  and  give  our  opinion  on  some 
Arabs,  a  young  Londoner  with  more  money  than  brains,  and 
more   assurance    than    both,    with   the    pleasing   sobriquet  of 


i5K 


I 


HOSPITALITIES  OF  THE   MILITARY.  221 

"Little  Cheek"  from  his  unblushing  assurance,  had  selected  to 
take  his  choice  from ;  he  much  amused  us  by  his  praise  of  their 
fine  points.  "  Just  look  at  their  legs !  did  you  ever  see  more 
perfect  round  legs?"     "We  all  collapsed.     We  had  a  right  jolly 

time  until  nine,  when  we  all  started  for  our  homes,  and  M 

to  his  office,  being  Assistant  Adjutant-General  of  this  division. 

My  horse  and  two  servants  have  arrived.    This  afternoon  being 

showery,  the  band  was  not  out,  and  as  M 's  cab  horses 

will  get  lame  like  others,  he  is  reduced  to  the  saddle,  and  I  use 
a  palanquin  coach.  I  took  a  drive  after  the  shower,  and  then 
went  to  the  "  mess,"  it  being  company  night.  One  night  in  the 
week  is  company  night  with  every  regiment  in  India.  Then, 
almost  every  officer  has  a  guest.  On  other  nights  he  may  or 
may  not.  This  evening  there  were  two  of  the  hussar  officers 
here,  that  I  had  met  in  the  morning,  besides  several  infantry 
officers,  with  all  of  whom  I  became  acquainted  and  had  a  very 
nice  evening. 

M and  I  are  to  dine  at  the  hussar  mess  to-morrow 

evening.     M being  the  senior  officer  of  his  regiment  here, 

presides,  and  being  a  capital  good  fellow,  is  the  life  of  the  table, 

reminding  me  much  of  Major  W of  our  own  army,  both 

being  about  equally  great  favorites  with  all  who  know  them. 
He  told  me,  this  evening,  to  come  down  to  breakfast  to-morrow, 
and  send  my  horse,  as  his  house  is  such  a  rendezvous,  it  would 
be  a  good  place  to  show  him  off. 

April  SOlh. — Down  to  M 's  this  morning,  and  sure  enough 

there  was  a  party — of  six — when  I  arrived.  Breakfast  being  dis- 
posed of,  my  horse  was  brought  up  to  the  door,  and  thoroughly 
examined,  very  generally  admired  as  usual  for  looks  and  high 
breeding ;  and  being  for  sale,  was  freely  canvassed,  all  was  in  his 
favor,  except  his  unfortunate  back,  which,  from  the  saddle  and 

bad  grooming,  was  sore.     M sent  for  the  farrier  of  his 

regiment,  and  to  have  the  horse  convenient,  has  put  him  in  his 
own  stable. 


222  FROM   WAT.L   STI^EET   TO   CASHMERE. 

Indian  ofticcrs  and  civilians,*  as  a  body,  are  a  most  hospitable, 
good-liearted  people.  The  following  is  an  instance  of  disinterest- 
edness.    M told  me  this  morning,  as  his  friend  and  his  wife 

wished  to  spend  a  month  in  the  place,  and  as  he  could  not  find 
a  house  for  them,  and  his  own  was  too  small  for  them  to  be  com- 
fortable in,  he  had  arranged  with  another  officer  of  his  regiment, 
to  give  up  his  liouse^  and  come  and  stay  with  him  for  the  month. 
Fancy  the  good-nature  of  a  man  who  w^ould  give  up  all  the  com- 
fortable arrangements  of  his  own  bachelor  snuggery,  and  put  up 
with  a  single  room  for  a  month  to  accommodate  another  man's 

friend !    M has  only  just  been  relieved  of  an  acquaintance 

who  has  been  making  him  a  visit  for  a  ivhole  year  f 

I  wish  you  could  see  his  beautiful  garden!  Unfortunately 
the  majority  of  his  flowering  plants  won't  grow  from  slips; 
thus  my  predatory  propensities  wull  not  be  brought  to  bear  on 
his  premises,  or  those  of  the  other  people  here,  who  have  such 
quantities  of  beautiful  flowering  plants  and  trees,  I  don't  know 
how  I  can  help  you,  unless  you  can  send  me  Herr  Alexander's 
or  some  other  conjuror's  magic  wand, — I  should  think  they 
must  be  sufficiently  potent  by  this  time,  for  two  years  ago  I  saw 
some  of  them  in  Paris  brina;  two  dozen  bottles  of  wine  out  of  a 
hat,  and  bird  cage  with  singing  birds  from  a  backgammon  board ; 
and  if  they  had  the  assistance  of  an  evil  spirit  to  help  them  then, 
certainly  the  wand  by  this  time  has  increased  to  a  two  or  three 

*  In  India  the  service  is  divided  into  civil  and  military,  and  until  lately,  all 
appointments  were  made  by  interest,  every  Director  having  several  in  his 
family,  which  he  used  or  gave  his  friends.  The  civil  service  is  the  best  pay, 
and  they  rank  highest  in  India,  though  out  of  it,  the  army  docs.  But  army 
officers,  often  by  influence,  distinction,  or  great  cleverness,  get  civil  appoint- 
ments, and  thus  receive  the  pay  from  both  services,  and  without  doing  duty 
with  their  regiments,  they  continue  to  be  promoted,  and  often  reach  the  highest 
positions  in  time,  as  Sir  Henry  Lawrence,  General  Outram,  and  others.  In 
speaking  of  civilians,  I  always  mean  those  appointes  or  employes  of  the 
government ;  all  other  English  people  in  India  are  only  shopkeepers,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  merchants  in  the  cities,  or  indigo  and  coffee  planters  scat- 
tered about  the  country. 


THE   HUSSAR   MESS.  223 

devil  "power;"  and  who  knows  wliat  I  might  effect  for  you  out 
here  with  such  a  powerful  agency. 

This  morning  I  got  myself  up  quite  en  regie  to  call  on  the 
General  of  Division  here,  General  Sewell  (an  old  Peninsular 
officer,  who  wears  the  Peninsular  medal  with  fourteen  clasps, 
for  distinguished  services),  and  the  Brigadier  of  the  station,  as 

M saj's  it  is  etiquette  for  me  to  call  on  all  the  principal 

officials  here  and  in  every  station ;  and  nothing  could  be  said 
against  it,  for  having  been  presented  to  their  queen,  my  position 
was  settled  with  every  Englishman.  Unfortunately  the  General 
was  out,  and  the  Brigadier  was  engaged. 

Returning  home,  saw  fourteen  large  hawks  sitting  on  the  roof 
of  a  bungalow,  and  about  fifty  yards  distant  the  same  number 
of  pigeons  on  a  stable,  apparently  quite  indifferent  to  their 
neighbors.  The  hawks  and  crows  are  the  greatest  possible 
friends.  I  hear  them  cawing  and  screaming  all  day  long,  fre- 
quently on  the  tops  of  the  houses  and  stables  with  yards  of 
poultry  quite  unconcerned. 

This  afternoon  drove  to  the  band ;  after  seeing  the  ladies  and 

my  officer  friends,  I  took  M in,  and  drove  to  the  hussar 

mess.  The  greater  part  of  the  regiment  being  here,  they  spread 
a  very  large  table.  They  are  the  15th,  one  of  the  Queen's  crack 
regiments.  The  silver  dinner  service  was  very  handsome,  every 
new  officer,  including  the  colonels,  being  expected  to  make  a 
present  of  a  piece  of  silver. 

In  India  they  continue  the  custom  of  taking  wine  with  each 
other,  and  I  believe  I  took  wine  with  two-thirds  of  the  offi- 
cers at  table.  The  colonel,  or  senior  officer  present,  always 
presides  at  one  end,  and  the  other  officers  take  their  turn  for 

a  week  at  the  opposite  end.     My  host.  Lieutenant  S ,  was 

enjoying  his  week  there.  The  mess-house,  like  those  at  all  the 
stations,  is  very  fine,  and  partially  supported  by  government, 
which  allows  every  mess  a  certain  annual  sum  towards  defraying 
its  expenses.  Three  or  four  of  my  acquaintances  here  have 
most  familiar  faces,  very  much  resembling  some  intimate  friends 


224  FKOM    WALL   STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

at  home:  the  only  difference,  the  moustaclie.  They  are  all 
scions  of  nobility,  I  don't  know  how  they  would  like  to  be 
compared  with  their  democratic  cousins  across  the  Atlantic, 
though  I  think  they  are  all  too  good  fellows  to  be  more  than 
amused  at  it,  as  I  always  find  English  gentlemen  well  disposed 
towards  us;  besides,  we  are  "the  people,"  princes,  and  sove- 
reigns— so  that  I  am  "peer  to  any  lord  in  Scotland  here," 
without  availing  myself  of  my  Norman  baron  ancestor  who 
fought  at  Hastings,  and  all  the  succeeding  adjuncts  of  illustrious 
name,  including  the  one  only  nobleman  who  has  the  hereditary 
right  to  stand  covered  before  royalty,  that  my  old  clerical  relative 
who  called  on  me  in  London,  gave  such  a  dissertation  about. 

The  English  bring  their  love  of  sport  to  this  hot  climate,  and 
I  will  give  you  a  few  instances  of  the  trouble  they  take  for  a  little 
shooting.  A  few  days  ago  several  were  making  a  calculation  of 
the  miles  they  had  rode  for  game  (snipe),  and  the  number  they 

had  shot ;  S had  killed  most;  and  ridden  to  and  from  the 

ground  (which  they  reach  by  relays  of  horses,  going  sixty  to  one 
hundred  miles  on  a  stretch),  seven  himdred  miles,  and  shot  three 
hundred  brace;  and  another  of  my  hussar  acquaintances  had 
rode  six  hundred  miles,  and  shot  two  hundred  and  fifty  brace ; 
and  another  had  rode  Jive  hundred  miles  to  kill  one  hundred 
and  fifty  brace.     At  another  time,  to  get  some  elephant  shooting, 

during  a  three  days'  leave,  S rode  one  hundred  and  tiventy 

miles  out,  and  the  same  back.     Spent  a  capital  evening. 

May  1st,  Sunday. — This  morning  to  St.  Mark's  (familiar 
name) — the  infantry  church ;  this  evening  to  the  cavalry  church, 
and  dined  at  the  mess. 

May  2d. — Two  nags  were  brought  to  the  door  this  morning, 
with  a  message  from  the  livery  stablekeeper  for  me  to  take  the 
one  I  liked.  This  was  easier  said  than  done.  One  had  horrid 
wicked  looking  eyes,  and  generally  so  weak,  I  was  afraid  my 
ride  might  terminate  in  pedestrianism !  The  other  had  one 
blind  eye,  and  almost  equally  weak  legs — I   decided  on  the 


SPEECH-MAKING,  225 

latter — and  such  a  brute !     However,  I  got  to  the  race  course ; 
saw  the  horses  training,  and  hussars  drilling.     One  of  them  was  a 

captain,  a  relative  of  General  K— of  our  army.     He  said  he 

was  in*Canada  during  the  troubles  in  1838,  and  knew  many  of 
our  army  officers. 

This  afternoon  drove  to  the  band,  and  this  evening  dined,  by 

invitation  of  K at  the  hussar  mess ;  I  had  a  very  pleasant 

time,  and  being  guest-night,  met  a  great  number  of  visitors.  In 
the  course  of  the  evening  I  had  my  nervous  system  tremendously 
discomposed.  One  of  the  officers  rose,  and  proposed  the  health 
of  an  officer  who  had  just  returned  from  England.  The  instant 
after,  another  rose  and  commenced  a  speech,  premising  with  how 
much  pleasure  it  afforded  them  to  show  any  attention  in  their, 
power  to  strangers,  and  especially  on  this  occasion,  which  was  a 
very  rare  one  (turning  to  me),  etc.,  and  concluded  wnth  pro- 
posing the  health  of  the  President  of  the  United  States,  which 
was  drunk  standing,  and  with  cheers.  My  nervous  system 
worked  up  to  a  fever  point  of  excitement  in  "prodigious"  short 
time,  as  the  whole  thing  was  so  unexpected,  having  dined  here 
so  quietly  the  last  time,  and  now  the  idea  of  making  a  speech  at 
a  moment's  notice,  before  thirty  or  forty  strangers,  the  leading 
grey-heads  of  the  station,  besides  the  brigadier,  colonels,  majors, 
etc.,  although  I  had  been  taking  wine  with  most  of  them.  Yet, 
being  in  for  it,  I  rose,  and  in  a  short  speech,  returned  thanks 
for  the  compliments,  and  friendly  feelings  that  had  been  ex- 
pressed towards  my  country,  and  myself,  etc.,  etc.,  and  gave  the 
Queen,  which  was  drunk  standing,  of  course.  I  sat  down  amidst 
cheers,  right  glad  when  it  was  through.  Several  speeches  and 
toasts  were  given  during  the  evening.  One  guest,  an  ensign  in 
a  native  cavalry  regiment,  becoming  excited  on  lemonade, 
whistled  on  his  cigar  case,  looking  the  brigadier  full  in  the  face, 
much  to  the  amusement  of  all  the  table  except  his  host,  who 
was  a  very  nice  gentlemanly  fellow,  and  received  momentary 
congratulations  on  the  fine  spirits  of  his  guest. 

15 


22G  FROM  AVALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

May  3. — Our  morning  rendezvous — the  course  and  M 's 

then  home,  and  while  in  the  midst  of  packing  up  my  seeds  the 
servant  came  up  with  the  Brigadier's  card  (Colonel  of  the  44th 
Queen's),  he  made  me  a  pleasant  visit,  and  invited  me  \o  dine 
with  him  on  Friday  at  his  house.     Dined  at  home  to-day. 

May  4. — This  morning,  by  invitation  of  K ,  rode  to  the 

plain  to  see  his  regiment  manoeuvre;  they  made  a  splendid 
appearance.  Getting  home,  re-labelling  and  packing  away  my 
seeds.  Oh,  patience  !  I've  spent  twelve  good  hours  within  three 
days  getting  them  in  order,  destroying  worms  and  insects,  occa- 
sionally being  obliged  to  throw  away  whole  packages,  for  the 
^entire  insect  world  seemed  at  war  with  me ;  and  yet  with  all  their 
destruction  I  have  thus  far  put  up  seventy-seven  kinds  of  seeds, 
besides  many  more  I  have  at  the  bottom  of  my  carpet  bags.  I 
find  that  one  of  the  books  with  collections  of  flowers  for  my 
herbarium,  was  greatly  injured  when  it  got  wet  coming  down  from 
the  Neilgherries,  and  thus  most  of  my  collection  of  souvenirs  from 
Munich  to  this  place  was  ruined — it  was  most  annoying  after  all 
my  trouble  to  collect  and  preserve  them. 

To-day,  at  the  hussar  racket  court,  where  I  got  a  very  good 
idea  of  the  origin  of  the  liver  complaint,  and  various  like  agree- 
abilities  that  give  the  Indian  emploijes^  civil  and  military,  their 
happy  chances  of  "  doing  John  Company"  in  sick  leave,  (the 
slang  phrase  used  when  a  man  gets  sick  leave,  his  pay  still  con- 
tinuing and  he  enjoying  himself  elsewhere,  "  barring"  this  ail- 
ment, when  he  d — ns  that  eternal  blue  sky).  I  frequently  heard 
them  laugh  about  the  way  they  had  "  done  John  Company ;" 
and  one  man  told  me,  with  the  greatest  glee,  he  had  been  in  the 
service  fourteen  years,  and  had  "  done  the  Company  nine  years 
and  some  months,  and  was  then  applying  for  another  sick  leave." 
The  officers  played  racket  all  the  morning  exposed  to  the  hot 
sun,  always  dangerous  in  India.  Then  we  took  a  hearty  "  tiffin" 
of  Mullagatawny  soup,  cold  meats,  or  hot  chops,  etc.,  with  "  half- 


PRECAUTIONS  IN   PACKING   SEEDS.  227 

and-half "  and  sherry  ;  and  they  continued  the  racket  as  soon  as 
they  had  smoked  their  segars. 

Drove  out  this  afternoon  to  see  the  Fort  of  Bangalore,  from 
which  the  natives  have  been  expelled,  and  their  houses  occupied 
by  bungalows  and  barracks.  It  was  planned  by  a  French  engi- 
neer, has  high  walls  and  deep  moat;  with  one  entrance  extra- 
ordinarily well  defended,  and  the  other  with  no  natural  or  other 
defences.  Then  to  the  band,  and  home  to  dine — the  mess-rooms 
being  vacated  by  dinner  parties. 

May  5. — This  morning  I  went  to  my  usual  rendezvous  for  break- 
fast, news,  and  gossip.  Then  home,  scrawled  away  at  some  half- 
finished  sketches,  and  packed  away  my  seeds  for  the  last  time  I 
hope — and  effectually  too — for  I've  put  them  in  half-a-dozen 
covers,  \sdth  half  a  pound  of  red  pepper,  tied  them  up  in  a  bag 
and  then  an  india-rubber  sheet,  Now  if  the  insects  get  in  I  shall 
give  up.  I  find  I've  just  eighty-eight  varieties  of  seeds — besides 
a  number  that  have  gone  on  to  Calcutta  with  my  other  things. 
I  took  a  famous  long  drive  this  afternoon,  then  to  the  band,  and 
the  artillery  mess  to  dine. 

May  Gth.  —  Took  my  early  drive  by  the  monkey  "tope" 
(grove),  as  it  is  called ;  I  saw  seven  or  eight  hundred  monkeys. 
The  natives  never  disturb  them,  and  the  brutes  wander  about  the 

road,  perfectly  indifferent  to  the  carriages.     Then  to  M 's ; 

sold  my  horse ;  went  home  and  packed  off  a  lot  of  things  to 
Madras.  I  had  a  visit  from  two  hussar  officers,  who  had  come 
to  invite  me  to  dine  at  the  mess  to-morrow  eveninsr.  But  I  was 
obliged  to  decline,  as  I  must  start  to-night.  They  then  proposed 
to-night,  which  I  had  to  decline  also,  as  I  was  to  dine  at  the 
brigadier's.  One  of  the  officers  told  me  he  had  some  friends  in 
the  Bengal  Presidenc}^,  and  would  give  me  a  letter  to  each, 
which  was  exceedingly  kind,  as  I  have  never  been  introduced 
to  either,  and  our  only  acquaintance  was  from  their  having  seen 
me  at  their  mess-table,  the  guest  of  their  friends.     The  letters  will 


228  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

be  very  acceptable :  they  are  to  the  Queen's  regiments,  I  believe. 
I  speak  in  the  way  they  do  here.  The  term  Queen's  being  in 
contra-distinction  to  the  Company's  regiments  of  English,  (termed 
European)  or  native  regiments.  The  army  of  the  Queen  and 
Company  being  quite  separate.  The  English  government  lend 
the  Company  about  twenty  thousand  troops,  of  infantry  and 
cavalry,  who  thus  have  occupation,  and  often  see  severe  service. 
The  English  government  pay  to  the  East  India  Company  the 
amount  of  money  due  these  troops,  according  to  the  English 
pay ;  then  the  India  government  pays  them  according  to  their 
own  pay,  which  is  nearly  treble ;  so  that  often,  when  the  regi- 
ments are  ordered  to  return  to  England,  the  of&cers  and  men 
exchange  into  the  new  regiment,  that  they  may  remain  in  the 
country  and  receive  the  high  pay.  These  troops  are  divided 
between  the  three  presidencies,  Bengal,  Madras,  and  Bombay, 
the  larger  portion  being  in  Bengal,  which  is  double  the  size  of 
either  of  the  others,  and  includes  all  the  north  of  India,  except 
Scinde,  There  are  in  Bengal  about  ninety-five  regiments,  which, 
with  engineers,  sappers,  and  artillery,  make  about  120,000  men. 
Madras  has  seventy  regiments,  with  about  80,000  men ;  and  Bom- 
bay forty  regiments,  and  45,000  men.  This  is  the  present  peace 
arrangement;  besides  which,  there  are  about  60,000  of  local  corps, 
body-guards,  militia,  etc.,  officered  from  the  line,  who  with  the 
Queen's  troops,  form  an  army  of  nearly  330,000  strong.  All  but 
about  sixteen  of  the  Company's  regiments  are  native  troops, 
officered  by  Europeans.  As  long  as  they  are  led  by  European 
officers,  they  will  fight  well — but  Sir  Charles  Napier  remarked  in 
his  last  battle  fought  in  India,  that  the  fall  of  an  officer  was  a 
signal  for  the  troops  to  falter.  But  that  was  one  of  the  most 
severe  battles  ever  fought  in  India.  The  pay  of  both  civil  and 
military  service  is  capital :  the  civil  much  the  largest.  Why,  a 
boy  ensign,  when  he  first  arrives  here  from  school,  receives  his 
$1500  per  annum ;  when  he  becomes  a  lieutenant,  he  has  a  chance 
for  a  staff  appointment,  which  may  run  it  up  to  $6000.  A 
colonel   in   the   artUlery  or  infantry,  $8000 ;    in  the  cavalry, 


A  MODEL  OF   PUNCTUALITY.  229 

$9000 ;  if  on  the  staff,  it  is  increased  $3000  more.  This  is  field 
or  active  service  allowance.  But  there  is  very  little  difference 
between  the  peace  and  war  rates.  On  retiring  from  the  service 
for  ill-health,  or  for  long  service,  after  five  to  thirty-five  years, 
they  receive  from  $250  to  $3,500  per  annum,  while  the  civil 
service  is  still  better  off. 

The  jingling  of  the  "  tapal "  (postman)  reminds  me  that  I  have 
not  spoken  on  this  subject.  The  mails  are  for  the  most  part 
carried  by  runners,  except  on  a  few  principal  routes,  where 
post-carts  are  used.  The  mail  is  strapped  on  the  man's  back ; 
in  one  hand  he  carries  a  staff  or  long  cane,  with  two  or  three 
bells  attached — to  frighten  away  snakes  and  wild  animals,  I 
fancy ;  in  his  other  hand  a  torch.  They  jingle  the  bells  merrily 
as  they  speed  their  course  by  day  or  night,  of  about  five  miles 
an  hour.  Every  six  miles  they  are  reheved.  I  often  met  them 
with  their  glimmering  light  and  lively  bells,  as  I  made  my 
midnight  marches. 

To-day  busy  packing  up.  This  afternoon  to  the  band,  to  bid 
my  ofiicer  acquaintances  good-bye.  Met  ^I ,  who,  as  he  pro- 
mised this  morning,  gave  me  a  package  of  letters  to  friends  and 
relatives  in  the  north  of  India — Meerut,  Umballah,  and  Pesha- 
wur.  Then  to  the  Brigadier's,  who,  I  knew  prided  himself  on 
being  the  most  punctual  man  on  the  station.  He  was  alone 
and  looking  at  the  clock.  I  was  a  few  minutes  before  the  time, 
and  I  suppose  quite  won  his  heart  by  it.  The  others  did  not 
come  in  for  some  time ;  nearly  all  of  them  I  knew.  There  were 
four  hussar  officers,  and  the  colonel  and  major  of  the  Queen's 
9-ith.  The  colonel  laughed  at  them  for  their  military  time. 
Then  we  all  went  in  to  dinner,  when,  to  my  surprise,  I  found  I 
was  the  guest  of  the  evening.     I  expect  I  shall  get  "  stuck-up  " 

before  long.     I  had  a  delightful  time.     K ,  and  another 

officer,  who  had  been  in  America,  made  a  recital  of  their  plea- 
sures there  half  the  topic  of  conversation  when  conversing  with 
me.  Then  home,  and  in  a  few  minutes  I  was  off  for  a  forty- 
eight  hours'  drive  to  Madras. 


230  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

May  8ih,  (Sunday,)  Madras. — Started  Friday  night,  and  all  yes- 
terday and  to-day  jolted  on  with  nothing  special  to  interest,  stop- 
ping only  to  change  bullocks  or  horses,  and  a  short  time  morning 
and  evening  for  breakfast  and  dinner.  The  country  in  some  parts 
is  well  cultivated,  and  tolerably  fertile,  though  mostly  light  soil 
and  flat,  except  the  Ghauts.  Passed  yesterday  the  barrier  between 
the  Mysore  country  and  the  Carnatic — that  being  the  name  for 
the  part  on  the  sea-side  of  the  Ghauts.  Yesterday  morning  we 
stopped  at  a  bungalow,  and  as  I  got  out  tired  and  heated  by 
jolting,  and  the  sun,  a  gentleman  in  the  adjoining  room  had  pity 
on  my  forlorn  condition,  and  sent  me  a  cup  of  tea.  To-day  I 
passed  near  an  old  temple,  in  front  two  huge  sitting  figures,  which 
seemed  from  their  smiling  faces  to  enjoy  the  sun  far  more  than  I 
did.  Shortly  after,  I  passed  the  fine  fort  of  Belloon  with  a  deep 
moat ;  a  mile  distant  a  mountain  crested  by  a  chain  of  forts. 

This  morning  crossed  the  almost  dry  bed  of  a  large  river — the 
Palar.  Here  the  horses  were  unhitched,  and  about  a  hundred 
men  dragged  the  carriage  over, — probably  a  distance  of  a  mile. 
In  the  wet  season  many  people  are  drowned,  and  carts  swept 
away.  It  swells  so  rapidly  they  are  often  caught  midway,  and 
before  they  are  able  to  get  across,  they  are  borne  away  by  the 
force  of  the  rapid  torrent. 

This  afternoon  passed  half-a-dozen  sportsmen  in  a  tent.  I 
reached  this  place  at  half-past  nine,  and  found  accommodation  at 
a  large  family  hotel.  According  to  the  custom  here,  they  put 
bachelors  by  themselves,  and  thus  they  gave  me  a  cottage  or  small 
bungalow  in  the  garden,  where  luckily  I  am  alone,  for  it's  so  hot 
I  might  be  pugnacious — I  don't  think  it  can  be  much  hotter 
down  below — why,  the  air  is  so  hot  my  breath  almost  hisses. 

May  9iJi. — Thank  fortune  I'm  alive,  and  barely  too,  though  I 
had  two  men  pulling  a  "  punka  "  all  night  to  keep  me  cool — 
such  a^purgatorial  night — but  I  endured  it  with  the  fortitude  of 
a  martyr.  This  morning  sent  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Dr. 
B ,   the  nearest  of   the  three  to   whom  I  had  letters. 


•Sketched  by  tlu-  Aiitli<>r. 


.••  e  ■  pHge  ;  S"i. 


TOM r,  OK  inuAiM  AiuL  >iiAii,  r,i:i  .iai':'I:e. 


•'n 


^^er. 


*h 


■Ha  ■ 


'?■ 


CIVILITIES   OF  THE   OFFICIALS.  231 

"W ,  the  Governor's  Secretary,  having  gone  to  Egypt  and 

Dr.  H too  far  off,  and  what's  worse  yet,  I've  lost  my  two 

letters  of  introduction  from  Capt.  W ,  one  to  Sir  Henry 

Pottinger  the  Governor  of  Madras,  and  the  other  to  Sir  George 
Wilson  the  Governor  of  Ceylon. 

I  was  sitting  half  dressed,  reposing  after  the  fatigues  of  break- 
fast, when  the  servant  returned  with  a  note,  and  immediately 
followed  by  another  with  a  card,  (before  I  had  time  to  read  the 

note)  and  information  that  Dr.  B was  here.    He  was  ushered 

in  at  one  door,  while  I  made  a  hasty  exit  by  the  other.  After  a 
minute's  toilet  I  returned  and  found  a  gentleman  in  a  military 
undress.  He  said  he  had  been  written  to  about  me,  three  months 
before ;  that  as  the  Governor  had  a  state  brealrfast  that  morning, 
he  had  stopped  for  me,  tliinking  I  might  like  to  go  there.     Dr. 

B is  somewhat  of  a  personage  here,  being  one  of  the 

Governor's  Body  Guard,  besides  Political  Eesident  at  the  court  of 
the  Rajah  of  the  Carnatic,  who  resides  here.  We  soon  reached 
the  Governor's,  who  lives  four  miles  from  this,  which  is  about 
two  miles  from  the  town,  but  where  all  the  employes,  civil  and 
military,  of  the  government  live.  There  were  some  fifty  persons 
present  and  all  at  table;  when  we  arrived  we  joined  them  and 
were  soon  busy  with  the  knife  and  fork. 

After  breakfast  my  friend  got  possession  of  one  of  the  Gover- 
nor's aids,  and  apologizing  for  not  sending  my  card  last  night, 
according  to  etiquette ;  said  he  would  like  to  present  an  American 
gentleman  travelling  in  India,  and  who  had  letters  to  him. 

He  reported  to  the  Governor,  who  suddenly  appeared  marching 
towards  me.  I  was  introduced.  He  shook  hands,  when  we  walked 
up  and  down  the  hall,  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  discussing  Ameri- 
can affairs,  which  he  introduced;  talking  about  the  new  Pre- 
sident and  his  speech,  which  he  thought  indicated  a  moretalented 
and  prudent  man  than  his  party  supposed  when  they  selected 
him.  Then  about  our  expedition  to  Japan,  and  its  object,  which 
he  thought  was  the  protection  of  our  interests,  and  not  to  force 
commerce  as  is  generally  supposed.     He  then  questioned  me 


232  FKOM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

about  my  travels,  when  we  were  suddenly  interrupted.  He  bid 
me  good  morning,  adding,  he  hoped  to  have  the  pleasure  of  see- 
ing me  again  if  I  should  return  to  Madras,  and  in  my  present 
journey  wished  me  a  pleasant  time,  health,  and  good  luck  (the 
last  term  having  been  often  applied  to  him  by  his  enemies, 
who  speak  of  him  as  "that  most  fortunate  man,  Sir  H.  P. ;"  and 
his  use  of  it  rather  surprised  me,  as  the  term  annoys  him).  As 
what  he  said  and  did,  was  very  courteous  and  polite,  I  give  it 
at  length. 

The  Government  House  is  a  fine  large  establishment.  The 
Governor  is  about  sixty-five,  medium  height,  very  strongly 
built,  with  bright  black  eyes.  He  is  a  Major-General  in  the 
Bombay  service.  This  office  was  the  reward  of  his  diplomatic 
services  in  China,  during  the  war.  We  then  left,  returning  by 
the  prison,  which  we  visited,  and  the  Lesser  St.  Thomas' 
Mount,  where  the  apostle  of  that  name  is  said  to  have  suf- 
fered martyrdom.  Some  doubt  the  truth  of  the  report,  and 
so  may  you, — ^but  I  saw  the  veritable  blood  marks  on  the 
stone,  and  on  another  stone  the  impression  of  his  knees  where  he 
knelt.  Probably  some  mart3^r  suffered  death  here  about  fifty 
years  after  the  time  of  our  Saviour,  and  St.  Thomas  has  the  credit 

of  it.  Thence  to  Major  B 's  the  brother  of  Dr.  B .  Saw 

him  and  Mrs.  B ,  an  exceedingly  pleasing  person.     The 

brothers  are  both  particularly  clever.  The  Major  not  being  well, 
was  in  dishabille,  but  he  was  in  his  private  office,  and  sent  out 
word  that  he  was  very  anxious  to  see  me,  and  begged  I  would 
excuse  his  costume,  and  come  in  and  see  him.  I  had  a  very 
pleasant  half  hour's  conversation  with  him,  and  then  came  home, 
where  the  Dr.  left  me  to  arrange  for  a  palanquin  for  a  trip  to 
the  "Seven  Pagodas"  to-night. 

Joining  the  Dr.  at  his  own  house,  I  was  presented  to  Mrs,  B , 

who  is  very  pretty.  Then  with  a  promise  to  return  and  dine, 
we  drove  to  the  fort.     The  Dr.  went  to  his  office,  and  I  to  look  up 

my  bankers,  Messrs,  A &  Co.    The  head  of  the  house  here  is 

a  very  pleasant  man,  a  brother  of  the  others  ;  he  had  been  induced 


SIGHT-SEEING.  233 

fx)  give  up  the  civil  service  after  being  seventeen  years  in  it,  and 
take  the  management  of  tlie  house  here,  on  a  guarantee  of  no 
losses,  and  £12,000  per  anmnn,  for  ten  years  !  I  don't  know  but 
I  might  be  tempted  too.  I  wish  they  would  try  me.  He  gave 
me  a  nice  package  of  letters,  and  not  the  least  important  among 
them,  Baring  &  Co.'s  new  letter  of  credit. 

Mr.  A invited  me  to  stay  at  his  house,  as  Dr.  B had 

already  done.     But  I  declined  as  I  had  to  Dr.  B ,  because  I 

feared  I  should  be  too  troublesome  with  such  a  retinue  about  me. 
Settling  up  after  my  last  journey,  and  preparing  for  a  voyage  to 
Ceylon  and  China,  with  servants  going  and  coming,  selling  my  use- 
less travelling  apparatus  (as  it  is  better  to  sell  it  here,  and  get  other 
at  Calcutta,  than  carry  it  with  me  such  a  distance),  besides,  I 
shall  sail  in  two  or  three  days.  After  all  sorts  of  kind  invita- 
tions from  Mr.  A ,  some  accepted,  and  some  necessarily  de- 
clined, I  returned  to  Dr.  B 's  ofiice,  when  we  went  sight-see- 
ing round  the  fort.  It  is  strong,  and  watered  by  an  underground 
reservoir,  the  water  being  brought  from  a  place  some  miles  dis- 
tant. The  arsenal  contains  60,000  stand  of  arms  beautifully 
arranged,  and  I  am  informed  the  largest  arsenal  in  the  world  ! 
But  I  think  I  saw  more  in  Tula,  Eussia,  where  they  make  75,000 
muskets  a  year.     We  then  went  to  see  the  Chief  Engineer  of  this 

Presidency,  Colonel  C ,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  men 

in  his  line  in  India.  He  is  a  tall,  thin,  amiable-looking  man,  with 
bright  eyes,  and  fine  forehead.  We  had  a  long  talk,  and  I  left 
delighted  with  him. 

I  came  home  and  dined  at  Dr.  B 's,  where  he  saved  me 

from  making  an  awful  blunder.     Dr.  B asked  me  what 

kind  of  a  voyage  I  had  from  Suez  to  Bombay,  and  by  what  ship  ? 

I  said  only  tolerable,  and  the  Akbar.    "Oh !  brother  W 's 

ship."  [I  had  forgotten  they  were  the  same  name,  nor  did  I  sus- 
pect such  a  horrid  brute  of  a  captain  could  possibly  be  a  brother 
of  these  gentlemen.  On  board  all  English  steamers,  the  captain 
reads  the  service  Sunday.  And  this  man  reading  it  one  Sunday, 
lost  his  place  by  a  puff  of  wind  blowing  the  leaf  over,  when  he 


234  FKOM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

nearly  "ripped  out"  au  oatli — lie  got  tlie  first  syllable  out, 
barely  stopping  tlie  rest ;]  so  I  added  (wbicli  was  really  the  fact) 
we  bad  a  long  voyage  and  bad  coal.  As  to  the  captain,  we  had 
seen  but  little  of  him  (though  that  little  was  much  more  than 
we  desired),  as  shortly  after  leaving  Suez,  he  had  seen  the  death 
of  his  mother  in  a  paper,  and  thus  was  much  of  the  time  in  his 
cabin.  So  I  congratulated  myself  on  the  good  get-off  from 
making  an  annoying  remark  to  my  most  kind  and  attentive  host. 

After  dinner,  Major  B and  his  wife  called  and  invited  us 

to  dine  on  Wednesday  next.  We  then  took  a  drive  to  see  the 
Club  House — the  most  complete  establishment  of  the  kind  in  the 
world,  not  excepting  the  best  in  London.  Returned  home,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  I  am  to  start  for  Mahavelaporum,  thirty-seven 
miles  down  the  coast,  to  see  the  Seven  Pagodas.  In  the  mean- 
time, two  rival  sets  of  bearers  are  having  a  fight  for  the  honor 
of  carrying  me,  and  while  they  are  settling  the  point  of  honor,  I 
will  look  over  my  letters,  which,  as  yet,  I've  scarcely  had  time 
to  glance  at. 

May  10th,  Mahavelaporum. — Started  last  night  at  ten,  and 
had  a  very  comfortable  night's  ride,  with  a  sort  of  cradle  rock, 
and  chorus  of  my  men  in  lieu  of  the  "lullaby,  baby."  We  got 
here  at  seven  this  morning,  thus  enabling  me  to  finish  my  letters 
as  I  rode  along.  There  not  being  a  bungalow,  I  managed  to  get 
up  a  breakfast  myself  from  the  hamper  the  landlord  had  pro- 
vided me  with.  I  then  set  off  for  the  pagodas.  The  first  was  a 
small  affair,  not  more  than  thirty  feet  square,  looking  very  new 
as  I  found  all  the  others ;  but  yet  so  old,  they  extend  back  of  tra- 
dition, as  I  have  been  informed  by  those  who  have  thoroughly 
investigated  the  subject.  There  are  a  few  excavations — merely 
a  sort  of  portico — also  carvings  and  sculpture  on  the  face  of 
some  rocks,  figures  in  every  sort  of  lying  and  lounging  attitude, 
with  elephants  and  tigers  at  the  bottom.  I  then  went  on  up  some 
rocky  hills  where  there  are  a  few  more,  and  one  temple  perched 
on  the  top  of  a  high  hill  at  some  distance — I  did  not  visit  it. 


BRAIIMINISM.  235 

The  second  pagoda  is  on  the  verge  of  the  surf  (they  are  all 
very  close,  none  more  than  from  one  to  three  hundred  yards 
from  the  sea),  about  a  mile  further  south  stand  the  other  five. 
These  are  in  various  styles,  though  in  general,  much  the  same ; 
and  all  here  except  the  excavations  spoken  of,  appear  to  have 
been  made  by  sculpturing  huge  granite  boulders  into  temples, 
for  they  have  not  been  built — and  there  is  no  rock  of  that  kind 
near  here.  The  edges  look  as  sharp  and  fresh  as  if  only  just 
finished!  One  of  the  pagodas  is  split,  probably  by  an  earth- 
quake. I  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  largest,  about  thirty  feet 
high.  Near  these  are  the  figures  of  an  elephant,  tiger,  and 
dragon — all  in  stone,  cut  from  small  boulders.  The  one  by  the 
sea-shore,  is  made  out  of  a  species  of  trap.  I  took  sketches  of 
all,  and  then  had  a  swim ;  which  I  now  learn  was  very  impru- 
dent, as  sharks  are  so  numerous.  The  sea  has  evidently  en- 
croached much  upon  the  land  here.  Then  dined,  and  at  dark  off 
for  Madras  again,  having  had  a  very  pleasant  day,  and  a  nice 
old  guide  who  provided  me  with  fresh  cocoa-nuts  for  drink  (the 
milk),  about  the  only  use  they  are  half  the  time  applied  to.  Saw 
some  boys  playing  horse — it  looked  quite  like  the  children  at 
home.  Some  of  the  alto-relievos  were  very  curious,  and  had 
they  not  been  so  elaborate,  I  would  have  drawn  them.  Among 
the  figures  were  two  monkeys,  one  phrenologically  employed  I 
suppose,  from  the  earnest  expression  of  his  face  and  position  of 
his  hands  on  the  other's  cranium. 

There  are  no  means  of  ascertaining  when  the  religion  called 
Brahminism  was  introduced  into  India ;  but  certainly  in  parts 
of  the  country  it  was  as  early  as  fourteen  or  fifteen  hundred 
years  before  the  Christian  era.  The  books  of  their  religion  were 
called  '•  Vedas,"  which  the  Hindoos  believe  were  delivered  from 
the  mouth  of  Brahma,  and  put  into  their  books  about  twelve  or 
thirteen  hundred  years  before  Christ.  They  were  written  in  the 
early  Sanscrit,  which  differs  much  from  the  later  Sanscrit. 
They  have  also  religious  and  civil  laws,  called  the  "Institutes 
of  Menu,"  and  "  The  Parans.''     The  former  are  somewhat  like 


236  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

the  laws  given  by  Moses ;  tlie  latter  in  the  form  of  dialogues 
Jjetween  religious  teachers,  who  were  supposed  to  be  divine  per- 
sonages in  human  form,  or  inspired  sagas  and  their  disciples. 
There  are  some  eighteen  of  these  books.  The  "  Vedas"  teach 
that  there  is  but  one  Deity,  whom  the  Hindoos  call  Brahma.  The 
primary  doctrine  of  the  "  Vedas"  is  the  unity  of  Ood. 

There  are,  however,  various  forms  of  Brahminism — mono- 
theistic, polytheistic,  and  pantheistic.  They  have  inferior  dei- 
ties; but  their  usual  triad  is  Brahma  the  creator,  Vishnu  the 
preserver,  and  Sheva  the  destroyer  of  the  world. 

The  commonly  received  opinion  is,  that  Brahma  created  the 
four  primitive  castes  from  his  mouth,  arms,  thighs,  and  feet. 
He  is  described  as  of  a  bright  yellow,  with  four  faces  and  hands. 
Vishnu,  as  a  dark  or  black  man  with  four  arms — he  is  supposed 
to  have  various  incarnations.  Sheva  is  described  in  various 
forms ;  in  one  with  five  faces,  three  eyes,  and  four  hands. 

The  Hindoos  are  also  very  superstitious  about  spiritual  beings, 
who  are  supposed  to  interfere  with  temporal  affairs,  producing 
many  sicknesses  and  ailments.  Of  the  temples,  many  are 
endowments,  others  are  erected  by  members  of  families.  In  the 
western  part  of  India,  the  revenues  of  villages  are  appropriated 
to  keep  the  temples  in  repair,  light  them,  and  pay  the  expense 
of  ceremonies. 

The  Bhuddists  preceded  the  Brahmins,  and  consequently  the 
earliest  temples  were  sculptured  by  them.  They  were  finally 
driven  out  of  the  country  by  the  Brahmins,  after  a  long  and 
severe  contest,  when  they  took  refuge  in  Ceylon,  Burmah,  and 
China. 

The  number  of  the  sacred  days  of  the  Hindoos  is  very  large, 
besides  their  lucky  and  unlucky  days.  They  occasionally  offer 
burnt  sacrifices  of  domestic  animals  and  fowls.  Meditation  is  an 
important  part  of  their  worship  ;  but  seldom  prayers  in  which 
an  assembly  unite.  Usually  each  offers  an  extempore  prayer 
by  himself  Hymns  of  praise  are  seldom  sung  by  any  number 
of  worshippers. 


ARRIVAL  AT  MADRAS.  237 

Ascetics  and  devotees  are  mucli  encouraged  among  the  Hin- 
doos. They  frequently  went  naked,  besmeared  with  daubs  of 
ashes,  until  it  was  lately  forbidden  by  the  government.  It  is 
often  taken  advantage  of  by  infamous  villains,  who  commit 
every  crime  with  impunity  under  this  sacred  guise.  The  Hin- 
doo idea  of  the  future  state  is  vague,  with  no  punishment  for 
the  bad,  but  for  the  good,  a  certain  condition  of  sensual  happi- 
ness. They  believe  in  the  transmigration  of  souls.  Sutteeism 
or  self-burning  of  widows,  is  not  commanded  by  the  "  Vedas," 
but  strongly  recommended,  and  encouraged  by  the  natives,  as 
widowhood  is  a  disgrace. 


o 


May  ll^A,  Madras. — About  daylight  I  arrived  at  the  bunga- 
low.   At  half-past  seven,  off  to  breakfast  with  Mr.  A ,  who 

has  a  beautiful  house  near  the  sea-shore.  At  breakfast  I  met  an 
ofiicer  just  from  Singapore.  He  said  he  had  been  on  board  of 
the  Susquehannah,  and  admired  her  very  much.  From  here  to 
the  ice-house,  where  I  saw  the  agent.  A  vessel  had  just  arrived 
from  Boston  with  ice,  and  brought  some  apples ;  he  gave  me  a 
few,  which  were  a  delicious  treat — it  was  so  long  since  I  had 
tasted  any.     Then  home,  and  on  to  the  fort,  stopping  to  rej)ort 

myself  to  Dr.  B ,  and  then  to  my  bankers,  with  whom  I 

"  tiffined."  I  afterwards  called  on  an  American  who  has  charge 
of  the  missionary  press.  He  very  kindly  showed  me  all  through 
their  establishment,  and  told  me  of  the  various  kinds  of  charac- 
ter and  languages  in  which  they  were  obliged  to  print  the 
numerous  bibles  and  other  books  required  for  the  extensive  mis- 
sionary labors  in  this  part  of  India.  The  missionary  press  at 
Bombay  doing  that  for  Western  India,  or  the  Bombay  presi- 
dency, and  that  for  Northern  India  being  done  at  still  another 
American  missionary  press  at  Agra. 

Americans  may  well  feel  a  pride  in  the  success  of  these  esta- 
blishments in  India,,  which  aid  so  largely  in  the  propagation  of  the 
gospel.  These  presses  have  so  entirely  the  confidence  of  the 
Government,  that  in  addition  to  work  for  the  missionary  labors, 


238  FRO.M   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

tlicy  have  large  contracts  constantly  on  hand  for  the  Govern- 
ment, and  thus  contribute  to  their  own  support. 

Then  went  home,  and  this  afternoon  had  a  drive,  and  on  to 

Major  B \s  to  dine,  where  I  met  Colonel  C ,  and  Major 

S ,  of  the  Artillery.  He  inquired  how  he  could  get  Ameri- 
can books  direct,  as  he  wished  some,  and  particularly  Major 
Mordecai's  work  on  Artillery,  which  he  said  was  considered  in 
India  to  be  the  best  practical  work  on  the  subject,  (they  ought 
to  know,  for  their  artillery  is  very  good).  They  get  quantities 
of  such  things  in  India  from  America. 

The  Government  has  just  sent  for  an  American  printing  j^ress, 
finding  them  better  than  the  English/  American,  and  no  other 
drillings  are  worn  in  India  by  every  man,  for  coats  and  trowsers. 
"Yankee  clocks,"  or  "Sam  Slicks"  as  they  are  termed  here, 
ornament  every  parlor  in  India,  however  handsome  the  other 
furniture  may  be.  In  fact  they  use  no  others.  After  a  very 
pleasant  evening,  went  home.     I  find  the  steamer  has  arrived. 

May  12th. — To  the  town  or  "Blacktown"  as  it  is  called. 
Here  are  all  the  counting-houses,  and  places  of  business.  Then, 
going  south  over  a  wide  esplanade  or  plain,  you  reach  the  fort  of 
St.  George,  and  about  a  mile  further  south,  the  residences  of  the 
employes  of  the  Company  and  merchants,  extending  over  a 
circuit  of  three  or  four  miles.  Some  of  the  houses  or  bunga- 
lows are  very  large — often  in  the  style  of  our  own  country  houses, 
built  of  wood  or  stone  stucco. 

Madras  was  the  first  territory  acquired  by  the  East  India 
Company  in  India.  This  they  obtained  in  1640  by  a  treaty 
with  a  native  prince.  The  Company  then  erected  a  fort  there, 
which  they  called  St.  George,  which  has  ever  since  retained  that 
name,  and  the  town  retained  its  own  name  also,  though  both 
have  been  captured  and  ceded  back  by  the  French.  I  called  to- 
day on  a  noble  old  gentleman — Dr.  Scudder,  the  patriarch  mis- 
sionary of  India,*  and  the  father  of  a  whole  family  of  mission- 

*  Since  I  saw  him  in  the  summer  of  1853,  he  has  died. 


MISSIONS  IN"  INDIA,  239 

aries,  all  of  that  same  self-devoting  nature  that  he  has  shown  for 
so  many  years. 

The  first  Protestant  mission  in  India,  was  established  by  the 
Danes  in  1705,  at  Tranqucbar  on  the  Coromandel  coast — then  a 
Danish  possession. 

The  London  Society  for  the  Promotion  of  Christian  Knowledge, 
made  several  efforts  for  the  propagation  of  Christianity  in  India. 
But  they  were  always  opposed  by  the  East  India  Company,  as 
dangerous  to  the  stability  and  permanence  of  its  power  in  India. 
The  first  Protestant  mission  in  Bombay  was  commenced  by 
the  American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions.  In  1812,  five  mis- 
sionaries, Messrs.  Hall,  Judson,  Newell,  Nott,  and  Rice ! — revered 
names! — sailed  from  the  United  States  to  Calcutta,  to  found 
a  mission  somewhere  in  the  East  Indies.  The  Governor- General 
would  not  allow  them  to  remain^  hut  ordered  them  to  leave  the  country 
forthwith  !  They  then  left  Calcutta,  and  Messrs.  Hall  and  Nott 
proceeded  to  Bombay,  where,  owing  to  the  friendly  influence  of 
Sir  Evan  Nepean,  who  favored  their  cause,  they  were  eventually 
allowed  to  remain,  and  pursue  their  missionary  work. 

In  1818,  some  changes  favorable  to  the  introduction  of  Chris- 
tianity into  India  were  made,  and  the  missionary  societies  soon 
commenced  their  missions  in  the  Presidency  of  Bombay.  At 
this  time,  nearly  one  quarter  of  all  the  missionaries  in  India  are 
American,  and  pursuing  their  labors  with  the  energy  and  enter- 
prise which  always  characterize  American  undertakings.  The 
English  (both  military  and  civil)  often  told  me  the  American 
missionaries  were  the  only  real  missionaries  in  India,  who  worked 
steadily  and  untiringly  at  their  duties,  and  always  called  them- 
selves missionaries,  and  worked  as  such ;  while  the  English  ones 
called  themselves  clerks,  curates,  etc.,  as  if  ashamed  of  the  pur- 
pose for  which  they  came  to  the  country!  Many  told  me  they 
gave  their  subscriptions  for  religious  purposes  to  the  American 
missionaries,  in  preference  to  their  own. 

I  am  informed  by  one  of  the  best  and  oldest  of  the  missionary 
authorities  of  Indio,  that  there  are  at  this  tune  in  India  331 


240  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

missionary  churclies  for  ttie  natives  alone,  not  including  those  of 
the  stations  for  the  English,  which  are  under  the  charge  of  the 
chaplains.  Some  of  these  missionary  churches  have  200  or  300 
members ;  others  a  few  only,  from  being  but  recently  founded. 
The  whole  number  of  communicants  is  21,295,  which  is  nearly 
an  average  of  sixty-four  to  a  church ;  while  in  New  England, 
the  most  purely  congregational  of  this  country,  though  the 
churches  are  more  numerous,  none  (except  those  in  the  large 
cities)  have  as  many  members,  though  many  are  more  than  a 
hundred  years  old !  while  a  very  large  number  have  not  even 
sixty-four  members,  which  speaks  well  for  the  labors  of  our  self- 
sacrificing  countrymen  and  women.  I  am  now  at  home,  about 
to  pack  up,  and  at  six  shall  be  off  for  Ceylon  by  the  steamer. 

At  Sea,  May  ISth. — Started  last  night ;  we  came  off  in  a 
curious-looking  boat — short,  wide,  and  deep,  pitching  and  plung- 
ing as  they  pulled  her  through  the  surf  While  getting  on 
board  saw  two  or  three  "  catamarans" — a  kind  of  canoe  used  by 
the  natives,  formed  of  three  bits  of  log  fastened  together ;  on 
each  of  them  two  nearly  naked  men,  in  small  conical  caps,  pro- 
pelling it  with  paddles  while  they  kneel.  They  manage  to  make 
them  go  quite  rapidly  over,  and  through  the  waves.  They  carry 
notes  to  and  from  the  ships  to  the  shore,  in  the  peak  of  their 
caps.  Getting  on  board,  found  a  crowd  of  passengers  ;  and  my 
cabin,  which  they  told  me  was  one  of  the  best  in  the  ship,  was 
miserable,  and  had  to  be  shared  with  two  others. 

Madras  is  usually  very  pleasant,  but  lately  terribly  hot.  There 
are  several  statues  of  Lord  Cornwallis  (of  the  American  Eevolu- 
tion),  who  was  twice  governor  of  India,  and  one  of  Sir  Hector 
Munro.  Along  the  sea-shore  a  stone  wall  keeps  the  high  tide 
from  overflowing  the  land.  Near  the  landing-place  stands  a  fine 
marine  hospital,  and  nearer  still  to  the  European  part  of  the  town, 
the  palace  of  the  Eajah  of  the  Carnatic,  and  in  another  part  of  the 
suburbs  are  two  or  three  palaces  of  his  wives.  He  is  treated 
with  great  courtesy  by  the  Government. 


SCENERY  AT   COLUMBO.  2-41 

May  IQili,  PoiXT  DE  Galle,  Ceylon. — Anchored  here  at  six 
this  morning ;  the  passengers  pleasant,  but  the  ship  horrid,  and 
my  cabin  especially  so — apparently  a  lounging-place  for  the  ants, 
cockroaches,  and  rats ;  by  night  and  by  day  they  were  prome- 
nading over  me.  The  washing  of  the  deck  was  continued  to  so 
late  an  hour  in  the  morning,  I  was  obliged  to  get  a  waiter  to 
carry  me  on  his  back  from  the  gangway  to  a  seat.  Last  night 
was  so  stormy — and  such  a  sea — one  wave  swept  the  length  of 
the  ship,  ducking  us  all.  I  find  I  shall  have  to  wait  here  some 
days  for  the  China  steamer,  so  I  shall  make  a  few  excursions. 
As  the  Suez  steamer  leaves  soon,  I  must  close. 

May  17,  Columbo. — At  live  this  morning  started  for  this 
place.  The  entire  ride  was  on  the  seaside,  and  over  a  beautiful 
road.  The  cocoanut  tree,  with  the  exception  of  the  sugar, 
forms  the  principal  products  here.  The  nut  produces  oil ;  the  sap 
of  the  tree  a  kind  of  rum  called  bhang,  and  the  fibre  is  made  into 
rope  called  cayar  ;  admirable  on  rocky  coasts,  and  the  best  after 
chain.  The  bark  of  the  tree  forms  a  covering  for  the  native  huts. 
The  road  crosses  a  great  number  of  small  streams.  The  scenery 
is  very  picturesque,  though  gentle,  and  not  at  all  bold  near  the 
coast.  There  are  very  few  European  houses  along  the  road. 
The  natives  are  far  before  those  of  India  in  the  refinements  and 
comforts  of  life.  The  island  is  one  of  the  headquarters  of 
Bhuddism.  I  saw  numerous  priests  (who,  as  I've  said  before,, 
form  a  kind  of  monastic  order),  in  their  long  yellow  togas. 

This  is  a  pretty  place,  and  the  seat  of  government,  besides  being 
quite  a  seat  of  business  ;  more  so  than  Point  de  Galle,  which  is 
principally  so  from  being  convenient  for  the  steamers  to  meet. 
One  of  my  fellow  passengers  of  the  steamer  came  on  with  me,  a 

Dr.  J. ,  "  a  great  gun"  in  his  line  at  Calcutta.     To-morrow 

he  will  start  for  Candy. 

May  IS. — This  morning  went  sight-seeing  about  the  place,  and 
sketching ;  and  then  to  my  banker's,  who  introduced  me  to  the 
reading-room, — it  was  quite  a  luxury.     He  also  invited  me  to. 

16 


242  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

dine  with  him  this  evening.  He  lives  a  short  distance  out  of  the 
city,  and  as  I  stepped  from  the  carriage  on  to  the  piazza,  he 
jumped  out  of  the  windo-w  and  catching  me  by  the  arm  said 
"  Get  in  the  window,  I've  just  knocked  over  a  cobra  there"  (point- 
ing to  the  parlor  entrance),  and  sure  enough,  and  there  stood  a 
great  black  cobra  capella,  with  hood  spread,  balancing  himself 
more  than  three  feet  in  the  air.  So  I  got  in  the  window,  when 
his  servant  with  a  stick,  knocked  him  over.  They  then  put  him 
in  a  box,  and,  bachelor-like,  left  him  in  one  corner  of  the  dining- 
room,  while  they  sent  to  a  neighbor's  for  a  mongoose — an  animal 
like  an  enormous  weasel,  growing  from  a  foot  and  a  half  to  three 
feet  long  (including  the  tail,  which  is  half  the  length  of  the 
body).  These  animals  are  deadly  enemies  of  the  cobra,  and 
attack  them  most  spitefully,  whenever  they  see  them.  The  cobra 
bite  has  no  effect  on  them,  for  the  moment  they  are  struck  by  the 
cobra's  fang,  they  run  off  for  an  instant,  and  finding  something 
that  nullifies  the  poison,  renew  the  attack  until  they  have 
killed  it. 

This  mongoose,  for  want  of  employment,  had  gone  off;  but 
all  dinner  time  the  reptile  was  pounding  about  in  the  box,  and 
I,  in  my  nervous  horror  of  snakes,  eat  my  dinner  with  one  eye 
constantly  fixed  on  the  floor.  This  cobra  was  the  second  they 
had  discovered  in  the  parlor  within  ten  days,  and  it  was  only 
seen  by  accident.  A  pet  cat  happening  to  be  wandering  about 
the  room  started  to  go  under  the  sofa,  darted  back — and  they 
suspecting  a  snake,  looked,  and  discovered  this  cobra — a  lucky 
escape  for  me,  for  I  should  j^robably  have  been  asked  to  take  a 
seat  on  it.  There  was  an  officer  staying  with  my  banker,  who  had 
recently  arrived  from  Canada.  He  said  he  had  lived  within  forty 
miles  of  Niagara  Falls  for  two  or  three  years,  but  had  never 
taken  the  trouble  to  see  them.  Owing  to  the  coach  arrangements, 
I  shall  be  prevented  from  going  to  Candy. 

May  20. — Returned  to-day  from  Columbo.  Like  my  journey 
here,  the  ride  was  delightful,  except  from  the  excessive  heat. 


A  NATIVE   DIGNITARY.  243 

May  list — I've  been  walking  round  tlie  harbor.  To-day  I 
got  two  fellows  to  let  me  sketch  them.  The  natives  here  wear 
long  hair,  and  long  combs  (such  as  young  girls  of  eight  and  ten 
years  old  wear  with  us,  extending  all  across  the  front  of  the 
head,  to  keep  their  hair  out  of  their  eyes).  The  back  part  is 
done  up  in  a  knot.  This  afternoon  took  a  drive  to  the  spice 
gardens.  I  saw  cinnamon,  nutmegs,  vanilla  beans,  and  lemon 
grass  growing,  and  came  back  with  a  carriage  load  of  specimens. 
A  number  of  beggars  followed  me  a  long  distance,  quite  in  Euro- 
pean style.  One  threw  a  great  number  of  back-summersets  for 
our  benefit. 

May  22d. — To  the  old  Dutch  church — the  only  one  here — 
the  Episcopalians  and  Scotch  Presbyterians  keep  it  pretty  busy. 
They  hold  four  services  a  day  in  it,  each  taking  their  turn. 
Among  the  audience  was  one  native  dignitary,  perfectly  splendid. 
He  wore  a  tremendously  long  single-breasted,  blue,  frockcoat, 
with  gilt  buttons,  and  gold  studs ;  a  shirt  and  collar,  with  white 
waistcoat ;  and  for  trousers — ^half  a  dozen  yards  of  most  gaudy 
chintz  wrapped  around  him !  The  steamer  being  in,  I  shall  be 
off  early  to-morrow  morning.  There  are  two  steamers  here 
from  England,  and  the  cadets  are  strutting  the  streets  as  if  they 
were  all  governor-generals.  The  town  has  a  wall  surrounding 
it,  and  a  very  good  harbor. 

May  22cZ,  On  board  Ship,  G-alle  Harbor. — I  find  a  large 
number  of  passengers  going  to  "the  Straits"  (of  Malacca)  and 
China.  The  native  people  look  quite  different  from  those  of 
India.  The  Bhuddist  priests  shave  the  entire  .head.  They  are 
said  to  be  very  learned  in  their  theology,  and  frequent  reference 
is  made  to  them  by  the  priests  from  other  parts  of  Asia. 

Yesterday  afternoon,  while  walking  on  the  ramparts,  I  saw  a 
cobra  four  feet  long,  and  killed  him  with  my  cane. 

May  26th. — The  passengers  are  a  pleasant  set.     To-day  we 


244  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

passed  the  celebrated  Eugiisli  clipper  "  Challenger,"  that  beat  the 
American  clippers.  This  year  our  clippers  have  been  beaten  in 
these  seas :  but  in  this  way ;  our  shipping  increases  so  fast,  we 
give  first-class  ships  to  young  captains,  many  of  them  not  even 
having  been  in  these  seas  before,  which  are  quite  celebrated  for 
their  currents,  while  the  English  clippers  are  all  commanded  by 
experienced  captains.  Mr.  K ,  the  head  of  one  of  the  lead- 
ing American  houses  in  Batavia,  has  given  me  a  glowing  descrip- 
tion of  Java,  which  he  thinks  the  Paradise  of  the  world,  with  its 
magnificent  scenery,  great  variety  of  nature's  wonders,  soils 
adapted  to  almost  everything,  the  climate  delightful  throughout 
the  year,  and  the  Dutch  such  superior  colonists  as  to  be  able  to 
reap  all  the  advantages  of  it.  The  government  has  beautiful 
roads,  and  affords  great  facilities  for  travelling  and  commerce, 
besides  the  capital  schools,  thus  remedying  the  difiiculty  most 
eastern  places  labor  under. 

Extending  our  talk  to  Japan,  he  expressed  his  regret  at  the 
expedition,  and  said  the  grievances  were  very  much  overstated ; 
that  as  he  was  the  Consul  for  the  Dutch  settlements  in  the  East, 
all  the  cases  came  under  his  notice ;  and  that  the  majority  of 
people  who  were  wrecked  or  landed  in  Japan,  were  deserters  from 
ships,  and  were  almost  invariably  well  treated.  The  Japanese, 
in  their  jealousy  of  strangers,  prevented  these  people  from  having 
any  intercourse  with  the  inhabitants,  and  always  brought  them 
to  the  Dutch  colony  of  Nan-ga-sakki,  when  the  annual  Dutch 
ship  brought  them  to  Batavia.  As  the  ship  only  made  one 
voyage  a  year,  they  were  not  always  immediately  conveyed  to 
the  coast,  but  confined  in  temples,  and  well  fed  during  the  inter- 
val. But  the  sailors  often  committed  outrages,  and  on  one  or 
two  occasions  set  fire  to  the  temples.  As  to  the  cages  they 
speak  of,  they  were  nothing  more  than  bamboo  or  cane  carts — 
the  only  conveyance  on  the  island.  When  they  are  put  on 
board  the  Dutch  ships,  they  are  supplied  with  three  bags  of  rice, 
and  three  bags  of  some  other  thing,  besides  iliree  suits  of  clothes, 
and  then  consigned  to  the  governor  of  Java,   The  captain  must  take 


ARRIVAT;   AT   PENANG.  245 

back,  on  his  return,  a  report  from  the  governor  of  Java  of  their 
safe  arrival,  health,  condition,  etc.  So  particular  are  the  Japanese 
in  bringing  them  to  this  Dutch  port  of  Nan-ga-sakki  from  every 
part  of  the  Japanese  Islands,  that  on  one  occasion  a  man  died 
on  the  journej,  and  the  officer  in  charge  had  his  body  packed  in 
salt,  and  brought  on.  The  Japanese  are  very  suspicious  when 
an  American  lands ;  for,  with  all  their  isolation,  they  keep  well 
informed  of  what  is  passing,  and  have  been  apprehensive  for  a 
long  time,  of  an  American  expedition  !  They  never  allow  their 
people  to  leave  the  island,  and  when  anj^  of  them  are  picked 
up  at  sea,  or  otherwise  brought  back,  they  are  immediately 
beheaded. 

The  commerce  of  the  Dutch  is  very  small  with  the  Island,  and 
only  kept  up  by  them  for  policj'.  It  consists  merely  of  a  little 
glassware,  and  medicine  to  Japan,  and  trifles  in  return.  The 
Japanese  Government  only  allow  one  ship  a  year;  about  six 
residents  at  their  factory  here,  and  will  not  even  let  these  men 
bring  their  wives  with  them.  But  if  they  wish  a  wife  they 
supply  them  with  one,  who  must  be  left  here  when  the  men 
leave  this  country  to  go  elsewhere. 

May  28,  Peistaxg. — Pleasant  voyage  thus  far,  except  the  ther- 
mometer usually  rose  to  86  and  88  in  the  shade,  with  no  wind. 
To-day  passed  numerous  stagings  of  poles  (used  by  the  Chinese 
for  fishing),  three  miles  from  land,  in  the  open  sea.  This  island 
is  small,  and  hilly,  with  pleasant  views.     On  the  main  land,  are 

many  sugar  plantations.  I  went  ashore  with  Mr.  E ,  to  the 

house  of  Messrs.  R &   Co.     The  head  of  the  firm  is  the 

American  Consul.  Met  several  gentlemen  (merchants  and 
English  officers)  there.  They  were  just  sitting  down  to  dinner, 
and  we  joined  them.  When  we  left  this  evening,  they  gave  us 
a  basket  of  mangustines — a  delicious  fruit,  growing  in  the 
"  straits,"  but  for  which  this  place  is  celebrated.  They  are  round, 
and  from  an  inch  and  a  half  to  two  inches  in  diameter,  covered 
with  a  thick  purple  coat,  somewhat  like  a  black  walnut,  enclosing 


246  FROM   WAIA.   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

the  eatable  part,  whicli  is  of  a  liglit  milkj  color,  with  five  seg- 
ments, like  an  orange,  and  contains  a  small  seed  like  the  double 
meat  of  a  peach  stone.  The  gamboge  is  obtained  from  the  man- 
gustine  tree  and  fruit.  This  evening  sailed  at  eleven,  with  a  dark 
and  threatening  sky. 

J/ay  81,  Singapore. — Anchored  yesterday.  Most  of  our  pas- 
sengers leave  here  for  Australia,  Java,  &;c.  There  is  a  great 
quantity  of  shipping,  and  boats  in  the  harbor — from  the  latest 
and  swiftest  clippers  from  China  and  Australia,  down  to  the 
dullest  and  dumpiest  of  old  ships  or  brigs,  with  every  variety  of 
smaller  rig,  raking  opium  clipper — schooners,  and  brigs,  and 
hundreds  of  Chinese  junks  (many  of  them  pirates — when  chance 
offers),  and  native  boats  of  beautiful  model — by  some,  supposed 
to  have  given  the  idea  to  Steers,  who  built  the  "  Yacht  America." 

This  place  is  principally  settled  by  the  "scum"  of  China,  of 
whom  there  are  about  60,000.  The  English  have  a  small  force 
here,  together  with  a  governor.  Its  importance  was  early  dis- 
covered, and  I  think  it  was  first  taken  possession  of  by  Sir  Stam- 
ford Eaffies.  The  town  is  small,  but  flourishing  from  its  foreign 
business.  I  drove  out  to-day  with  an  acquaintance,  to  see  the 
garden  of  a  wealthy  native.  He  had  pineapples  growing,  the 
flower  being  of  a  most  beautiful  and  dazzling  pink  color.  I  also 
saw  the  lotus  in  bloom, — a  beautiful  pinkish  white,  about  oime 
inches  in  diameter  ; — also  some  nutmegs,  and  other  curious  plants, 
with  strange  birds.  We  shall  start  this  afternoon  for  Hong- 
Kong — a  voyage  of  ten  days. 

June  6,  Hong-Kong. — We  arrived  here  this  morning.  Got  a 
hotel,  and  went  to  see  our  Consul,  Mr.  A ,  an  old  acquaint- 
ance from  New  York.  As  this  is  the  great  port  for  the  whale 
and  California  ships,  he  has  plenty  of  consular  business  between 
belligerent  captains  and  crews.  "  Jack  tar"  has  much  his  own 
way  at  present.  In  some  ships,  the  sailors  will  not  let  the  cap- 
tains go  forward  of  the  mainmast.      At  other  times  they  have 


HONG-KONG  AND   CANTON.  '247 

made  the  captains  go  into  ports  they  did  not  sail  for,  and 
at  one  of  the  ports  in  Australia  they  made  the  captains  show  a 

certificate  from  his  last  crew  of  his  good  conduct !     Mr.  A • 

has  introduced  me  to  the  club,  so  I  shall  be  more  comfortable 
here.  As  they  have  a  good  librarj^,  I  shall  have  a  nice  time 
getting  up  information  about  my  prospective  journeys. 

June  9th. — Hong-Kong  is  prettily  situated,  but  not  a  particu- 
larly healthy  or  comfortable  place  to  live  in,  being  at  the  base 
of  a  high  hill,  and  terribly  warm  at  present ;  thermometer  every 
day  90°  in  the  shade !     Collected  more  flower  and  fruit  seeds. 

Dined  at  Mr.  A 's,     Near  their  house  stands  a  j^agoda  or 

joss  temple,  as  the  Chinese  call  them.  The  decorations  and 
divinities  were  neither  numerous  nor  elegant.  The  Chinese 
burn  candles  and  paper  with  writing  (prayers,  etc.),  to  pro- 
pitiate "  Joss."  The  pirates  alioays  do  the  same  when  they 
start  on  any  of  their  expeditions,  besides  burning  fireworks  and 
ringing  gongs  (to  attract  his  attention,  probably,  and  give  them 
good  luck !) 

June  11th. — Took  a  walk  yesterdaj^  to  the  "Happy  Valley." 
Why  it  is  so  called  I  cannot  imagine.  It  is  neither  beautiful, 
nor  has  it  a  single  house.  To-day  a  small  deluge  set  the  house 
afloat,  with  shower-baths  "gratis"  in  ascending  or  descending 
the  stairs. 

June  12th. — This  evening  gave  us  a  crab  supper  with  Mr. 
D 's  famil}^,  who  are  Americans. 

June  ISih. — Canton, — Came  on  here  to-dav,  via  Macao;  a 
delightful  sail  all  day,  especially  in  coming  up  the  Canton  river. 
Macao  is  nominally  a  Portuguese  province,  and  has  a  valuable 
commerce.  Hong-Kong  has  destroyed  its  influence,  without 
attaining  its  importance.  Its  harbor — such  as  it  is — is  almost 
an  open  roadstead,  only  protected  by  distant  islands  from  the 
full  force  of  the  sea.     The  town  is  surrounded  by  a  lovr  Avail, 


248  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

and  lias  several  indifferent  forts.  There  are,  of  course,  numerous 
Catholic  churches,  from  the  number  of  Portuguese. 

The  streets  are  narrow  and  clean.  There  is  hardly  a  horse  in 
the  place.  I  walked  through  the  bazaars,  which  are  closely 
crowded  together — barely  eight  feet  from  one  side  of  the  way 
to  the  other — and  half  that  space  occupied  with  goods.  There 
is  apparently  little  to  make  it  a  desirable  residence,  except  the 
fresh  sea  air.  But  it  is  still  preferable  to  Hong-Kong.  Many 
passengers  joined  the  steamer  for  Canton :    among  them  Mr. 

H ■ — ,  who  has  returned  to  retrieve  his  fortune.     We  passed 

great  numbers  of  junks  after  leaving  Macao ;  at  one  time  I 
counted  121  without  changing  my  position,  and  nearly  all  were 
from  ten  to  eighty  tons. 

This  afternoon  we  had  a  number  of  violent  showers.  The 
scener}',  in  most  parts  of  the  river,  is  fine.  Hills,  trees,  and 
towers  varying  the  landscape.  I  saw  the  Bogue  forts,  taken  by 
the  English  during  the  war  of  '42.  They  are  of  very  little  use, 
as  they  all  are  commanded  by  the  hills  in  their  rear.  The  river 
is  very  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  continues  so  until  approaching 
Whampoa,  the  head  of  ship  navigation.  After  that,  it  varies 
from  half  to  a  third  of  a  mile. 

WhamjDoa  is  a  village  of  importance  onlj-  from  the  shipping 
stopping  here,  and  all  repairs  to  vessels  done,  hauling  them 
up,  etc. 

Hong-Kong,  Macao  and  Canton  form  a  triangle  :  the  distance 
115  miles;  82  from  Macao,  and  90  direct  from  Hon2:-Konfr. 
From  Macao  there  are  32  miles  of  wide  bay,  with  small 
islands;  then  40  miles  of  river  to  Whampoa,  and  10  more  to 
Canton.  From  Whampoa  the  river  is  a  succession  of  islands 
so  large,  and  the  water  dividing  them  so  wide — being  from  a 
quarter  to  half  a  mile — that  they  give  the  appearance  of  separate 
rivers.  Manj^  of  the  junks  we  saw  are  of  medium  size,  very 
•sharp,  with  an  immense  number  of  oars,  looking  like  centipedes. 
These  are  termed  revenue  boats,  but — opium  smugglers^  accord- 
ing to  circumstances. 


SINGULAR  CUSTOM.  249 

The  opium  business  being  contrary  to  law,  as  you  are  probably 
aware :  the  merchants  are  all  engaged  in  it,  and  keep  a  fleet  of 
opium  ships,  well  manned  and  armed,  lying  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Canton  river.  These  sell  it  to  the  opium  smugglers,  who 
get  the  produce  into  the  country.  We  arrived  at  nine,  when  I 
made  my  way  to  Akow's  Hotel,  and  I  am  now  stowed  away  in 
a  "sky  parlor"  eight  feet  square. 

June  14:th. — I  called  this  morning  on  Mr.  F ,  the  head  of 

the  old  firm  of  Eussell  &  Co.     Mr.  F is  from  New  York. 

You  are  acquainted  with  his  family.     He  introduced  me  to  his 

partner,  Mr.  S ,  brother  of  the  one  in  the  firm  of  Messrs. 

B &  Co.      They  are  my  bankers  here.      Mr.  F 

invited  me  to  dine  with  him  to-day,  and  to  move  my  things  to 
his  house  to-morrow,  regretting  he  was  not  able  to  give  me  a 
room  at  once,  for  they  were  full. 

In  Canton  there  is  a  singular  custom  among  the  merchants — 
probably  part  of  the  old  factory  system  in  the  East.  All  the 
partners  of  the  firm  and  the  clerks  live  in  the  building  containing 
the  counting-house,  and  every  person  doing  business  with  the 
firm  is  expected  to  stay  there  also.  So  that  with  the  partners, 
clerks,  and  guests,  in  this  large  house,  they  lay  a  large  table  every 
day — about  eighteen  to  twenty-four.     Then  called  to  see  one  of 

the  members  of  the  firm  of  W &  Co.     William  L 

was  a  member  of  this  firm  at  the  time  of  his  death.  They  also 
invited  me  to  dine  with  them  to-day,  and  stay  at  their  house. 

On  to  Dr.  P 's,  saw  him,  and  was  introduced  to  Mrs.  P , 

who  looks  much  like  her  relative  Mr.  Webster.  I  had  a  pleasant 
visit  here.  At  dinner  I  was  introduced  to  a  room  full  of  people, 
with  nearly  all  of  whom  I  had  mutual  acquaintances — among 
them  was  a  rough-looking  originality,  who  had  been  through  the 
various  grades  and  states  of  farmer  in  Massachusetts,  merchant 
and  auctioneer  in  New  York  city,  planter  in  Louisiana,  specu- 
lator in  California,  and,  I  believe,  traveller  at  present.  He  says 
he  is  an  intimate  acquaintance  of  my  friend  ]\fr.  D ,  with 


250  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

•whom  I  liave  been  travelling.  He  rejoices  in  the  name  of 
Colonel  Poore,  though  I  believe  he  is  verj  wealthy :  a  huge, 
rough  and  prosj  old  fellow,  though  very  amusing. 

After  dinner,  Mr.  S ,  Col.  P ,  and  I  went  on  the  river 

in  one  of  the  Hong  boats  for  a  row  and  fresh  air.  Anchoring 
we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  numerous  yachts,  and  various  river 
and  town  boats  of  the  natives,  besides  enjoying  an  invigorating 

breeze  after  the  close  heat  of  the  city.     On  our  return  Mr.  S 

and  I  went  to  Mr.  H 's,  and  climbing  up  to  the  top  of  his 

house,  found  him  and  several  other  persons  enjoying  their  cigars 
and  the  evening  breeze,  on  a  species  of  aerial  platform,  from 
which  they  have  a  fine  view ;  after  a  pleasant  visit,  we  all  went  to 
the  club-room,  where  I  was  introduced  by  Mr.  S . 

June  15th. — Breakfasted  at  Mr.  F 's,  and  moved  my  lug- 
gage, then  sauntered  through  the  various  streets  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Hongs.  The  occupants  deal  principally  with 
Europeans,  whose  limits  of  safety  and  privileged  walks  don't 
extend  much  beyond  this. 

The  Hongs  form  an  immense  range  of  buildings,  some  three  or 
four  hundred  feet  deep,  by  a  thousand  long,  with  a  fine  large 
garden,  and  walks.  Between  them  and  the  river  there  is  a  space 
of  three  or  four  hundred  feet.  At  each  end  of  the  factory,  is  a 
high  wall  with  a  gate,  extending  to  the  river.  The  factories  are 
singularly  built.  The  lower  story  is  high,  like  an  English  base- 
ment. Here  are  all  the  counting-rooms.  The  buildings  forming 
the  Hongs  are  each  about  thirty  feet  in  width,  the  rooms 
being  of  the  ordinary  size  of  parlors,  and  commencing  between 
the  second  and  third  rooms  from  the  front  of  the  houses,  there  is 
a  large  "well,"  or  open  place,  of  sixteen  feet  square;  open  from 
above  to  light  these  two  rooms,  and  so  on  at  intervals  of  every 
second  room  to  the  rear  of  the  building.  In  the  garden  of 
the  Hongs  stands  a  pretty  Episcopalian  church.  The  Hongs 
arc  occupied  by  great  numbers  of  merchants — in  fact  by  all 
the  merchants  doing  business  at  Canton,  and  by  the  consuls. 


JUNKS  AND  SANPANS  AT  CANTON.  251 

The  only  exception  is  in  the  case  of  mercliants  having  theii 
families.     They  take  houses  just  outside  of  the  Hong  premises. 

This  afternoon,  with  Messrs.  F ,  S ,  and  W to  How- 

qua's  garden — a  row  of  about  two  miles  up  the  river,  and  a  small 
creek.  It  was  a  curious  affair — quantities  of  flowers  and  plants ; 
numerous  tanks  with  fish,  and  the  lotus  in  full  bloom — its  pink 
flowers  looking  beautiful.  The  garden  is  a  labyrinth  with  its 
numerous  summer-houses,  tanks,  walks,  and  trees.  The  bushes 
are  trimmed  in  the  quaint  old  style  of  birds  and  beasts.  Then 
on  our  way  down  we  stopped  at  a  smaller  garden.  The  river 
is  filled  with  boats  of  all  sorts — from  little  boxes  of  boats  scarce 
sufficient  to  support  a  single  paddler,  to  ponderous  junks,  half 
stationary,  half  locomotive — a  sort  of  floating  hotel  for  travellers 
and  parties  of  pleasure,  who  hire  them  for  a  few  days  of  jollifica- 
tion, when  for  retirement  they  are  rowed,  pushed,  or  towed  a  short 
distance  up  or  down  the  river,  and  anchored,  while  the  inmates 
enjoy  themselves  with  feasting,  music,  and  fresh  air;  at  other 
times  they  lay  at  anchor  in  very  compact  rows  in  the  stream, 
forming  a  perfect  succession  of  streets.  Every  boat  in  the  river 
is  registered,  and  I  am  informed  there  are  87,000!  within  the 
lamp  district  (about  four  miles)  on  the  police  books — as  plying 
on  the  river.  "With  an  ordinary  average  their  population  is 
computed  to  be  500,000,  while  that  of  the  city  is  1,000,000,  as 
near  as  can  be  estimated. 

The  fronts  of  these  lodging  boats  are  frequently  most  elabo- 
rately carved.  In  the  midst  of  this  motley  collection  of  junks 
and  "sanpans"  (the  miniature  canoes)  is  a  small  fleet  of  very 
pretty  yachts,  mostly  built  by  Mr.  Forbes  (the  head  of  the  lead- 
ing American  house  here,  and  a  great  amateur  in  those  matters) 
for  his  own  use,  and  then  sold  again  to  some  other  of  the  mer- 
chants here  as  he  tired  of  them,  or  fancied  some  improvement, 
until  now  he  has  the  most  beautiful  one  here.  It  is  built  after 
the  lines  of  the  far-famed  "yacht  America."  Besides  the  facili- 
ties for  sailing  amateurs,  there  is  every  variety,  shape,  and  form 
of  row-boat  in  English,  American,  or  Indian  style. 


252  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

June  Viih. — Yesterday  I  passed  with  the  occupations  of  a 
travelhng  lounger;    sketching,  reading,  visiting,  and  receiving 

visitors.     Dined  bj  invitation,  with  Mr.  H .     To-day  I 

have  been  sight-seeing  in  the  shops.  They  contain  Httle  more 
than  can  be  found  in  our  own  Chinese  shops — except  a  crowd  of 
rascally,  long-tailed,  oddly  dressed  Chinamen. 

This  afternoon  our  usual  anchor  in  the  river.  Almost  every 
afternoon  the  members  of  the  different  Hongs  go  out  in  their 
Hong  boats,  and,  anchoring  in  the  river,  enjoy  the  fresh  air,  while 
they  sit  and  smoke,  read,  see  the  yachts,  or  take  a  siesta. 

June  18ih. — Mr.  W invited  me  this  afternoon  to  take  a 

sail  to  Whampoa,  to  see  the  "  Challenge,"  the  crack  American 
clipper.     This  morning,  while  we  were  in  the  parlor,  a  sailor 

called  to  see  Mr.  W ,  and  complained  that  the  captain  did 

not  treat  him  like  a  gentleman — that  he  told  him  to  "go  to 

h 1."     We  had  a  delightful  run  down  in  Mr.  F.'s  yacht. 

"We  inspected  and  admired  the  ship,  which  is  a  "  perfect  beaut}^," 
and  of  great  size  for  a  clipper — 2000  tons.  She  arrived  a  short 
time  since  from  London.  Several  English  ofl&cers  came  out  in 
her,  and  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  her  fine  performances  and 
speed.  On  one  occasion  she  made  in  three  days  1045  miles,  and 
one  day  885  (the  "  While  Squall's"  great  feat  was  372.)  To 
give  you  some  idea  of  her  enormous  spread  of  canvass,  her 
main-yard  is  93  feet  long,  and  the  foot  of  that  sail  152  feet. 
After  a  nice  Yankee  supper  we  started  on  our  way  home. 

Jime  20th. — Yesterday,  being  Sunday,  went  to  church.  In  the 
evening  anchored  on  the  river  to  recruit  after  the  heat  of  the 
day.  I  extended  my  walk  to-day  rather  nearer  the  walls  of  the 
city,  but  with  little  that  is  novel  to  interest — though  perhaps 
from  long  travel  I  am  somewhat  blase.  Water-carriers  and 
porters  jostle  you  about  without  ceremon}^  The  shoj)  signs, 
instead  of  being  placed  laterally  as  with  us,  are  vertical,  as  the 
Chinese  read  from  top  to  bottom,  instead  of  from  side  to  side 


Sketched  by  the  Anthor. 

VIEW   OF   GL-SSATPA    FALLS,   (915  feet),  SOUTIIEnN,   INDIA. 


See  page  2('l. 


CHINESE  COIN.  253 

as  wc  do.  The  effect  is  very  curious.  Tliis  is,  however,  merely 
the  suburb  of  the  city.  It  is  not  possible  to  enter  the  city  pub- 
licly, though  Dr.  Parker  and  Mr.  Eoberts  a  missionary,  were 
once  carried  in,  in  close  sedan  chairs.  Occasionally  parties  are 
made  up  to  walk  around  the  city,  but  rarely,  as  you  are  always 
liable  to  insult,  to  be  plundered  or  murdered;  your  servants 
always  being  the  first  to  run.  When  the  English  captured  and 
allowed  the  city  to  be  ransomed,  they  did  not  enter  it,  but  occupied 
an  eminence  near  by,  and  the  Chinese  now  have  a  monument  in 
the  city  in  honor  of  its  never  having  been  polluted  by  foreign 
foot.  If  the  English  had  only  allowed  a  regiment  to  occupy  it 
for  a  month  it  would  have  cooled  off"  their  insolence  very  much. 
The  people  of  this  district  have  for  many  years  been  notoriously 
insolent  to  foreigners.  Even  as  far  back  as  Lord  Amherst's  visit 
to  Pekin  in  1805,  they  noticed  a  marked  change  in  the  people  on 
reaching  this  province. 

There  has  been  quite  an  excitement  here  for  some  days  about 

a  flagstaff  erected  at  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  F (the  French 

Vice-consul),  in  front  of  Messrs.  Russell  &  Co.'s  house.  Four  or 
five  valorous  young  Johnnie  Bulls  got  up  an  unnecessary  ex- 
citement about  it,  and  cut  the  halliards  and  shrouds ;  whereupon 
the  captain  of  the  French  steamer  sent  up  a  guard,  and  one 
evening  caught  two  Johnnie  Bulls  lurking  about  the  place.  He 
sent  them  down  to  the  steamer,  where  they  managed  to  cool  off 
after  some  hours'  confinement. 

The  Chinese  coin  is  diminished  almost  infinitesimally — I  think 
to  the  1500th  part  of  a  dollar.  Spanish  dollars  are  the  coin  of 
the  bankers,  and  the  Mexican  is  that  of  the  people.  The  latter, 
after  an  examination  by  the  servants,  or  money-changers  of  the 
Hong,  are  stamped;  and  thus,  after  a  while,  it  gets  beaten  to 
pieces.  Every  Hong  employs  one  of  the  examiners  of  coin, 
called  a  shreif,  who  docs  nothing  but  count  and  examine  coin  all 
day. 

The  revolution  is  exciting  a  great  sensation  in  China,  and  it  is 
supposed  the  rebels  will  attack  the  city  before  many  months. 


254  FROJiI   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

These  difficulties  are  awful  for  poor  travellers — making  exchange 
thirtj-three  per  cent,  on  London,  besides  the  eight  or  ten  per 

cent,  of  commissions,  &c.     This  afternoon,  Mr.  F took  me 

to  see  the  famous  Honan  Temple  (Bhuddist).  The  range  of 
buildings  is  immense,  and  among  them  is  one  for  burning  the 
bodies  of  dead  priests.  The  service  is  much  like  that  of  the 
Greek  church,  except  the  grotesque  figures  of  the  idols.  Like 
those  of  Ceylon,  the  priests  shave  their  heads,  and  wear  yellow 
togas.  We  then  went  through  a  curious  canal  in  this  suburb, 
of  which  the  walls  of  the  houses  made  the  sides.  In  passing 
under  the  bridges  we  had  to  keep  a  sharp  look-out  for  stones, 
and  slops  from  above,  thrown  by  mischievous  persons. 

Mr.  F informs  me  that  Commodore  Perry  had  great 

numbers  of  applications  for  passage  to  Japan  in  his  fleet  by 
English  and  Americans — some  coming  even  from  England ;  that 
Bayard  Taylor  was  the  only  one  allowed  to  go,  and  he  shipped 
as  master's  mate. 

To-day  I  had  my  pocket  picked  for  the  first  time  in  my  life, 
and  then  of — an  old  pair  of  gloves — they  will  be  very  useful  to 
a  Chinaman  "I  guess." 

June  21sL — I  shall  remain  here  till  I  return  to  Hong-Kong, 
and  sail  for  India.  Owing  to  some  disarrangement  of  the 
steamers,  I  can't  get  to  Shanghae,  and  as  it's  not  very  interesting, 
except  commercially,  and  I  cannot  reach  Ningpo  and  Nankin, 
I  shall  not  try  a  sailing  vessel.  The  silks  and  green  tea  for  the 
United  States  principally  go  from  Shanghae. 

The  Bhuddist  priests  are  trembling  at  the  success  of  the  new 
Emperor,  or  would-be  Emperor,  Typing- Wang,  who  at  one  time 
was  a  disciple  of  a  Mr.  Roberts — missionary — hence  his  jumble 
of  creeds,  half  Christian  half  heathen,  that  in  his  proclamations 
so  astonished  the  religious  world,  and  gave  them  hope  that  a 
new  and  better  era  was  to  mark  the  Chinese  Emj^ire  of  the 
19th  century. 


EXECUTIONS  AT  CANTON.  255 

June  2olh. — I  dined  yesterday  with  Mr.  M ,  of  Wetmore 

&  Co.'s  house.     To-day  dined  with  Dr.  P ,  and  had  a  sail 

on  the  river  in  one  of  the  yachts.  Fell  in  with  a  regular  North 
river  sloop,  which  Mr.  F.  has  built  as  an  e.xperiment  for  freight- 
ing, and  as  pirates  are  so  numerous,  she  carries  six  carronades. 

June  2Qlh. — Sunday — to  church.  This  evening  an  acquaint- 
ance in  speaking  of  the  great  number  of  executions  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Canton,  said  that  a  year  or  two  since,  the  Gov- 
ernor Suu,  was  invited  on  board  of  the  United  States  sloop-of- 
war  Plymouth.  The  captain  gave  him  a  salute,  and  showed 
him  the  thirty-two  pounder  guns,  explaining  the  terrible  destruc- 
tion they  made  when  fired.  The  Governor,  so  far  from  express- 
ing any  surprise,  simply  remarked  that  he  had  signed  the  death- 
warrants  of  6,000  persons  during  the  year!  I  am  told  the 
average  is  4,000  !  Mr.  H described  the  execution  of  sixty- 
three  he  was  once  oblipred  to  witness. 


O" 


June  27 ill. — This  morning  went  with  Dr.  Parker  to  his  Eye 
Infirmary  and  Hospital.  There  are  often  several  hundred  per- 
sons there  to  consult  him  and  be  operated  on — some  coming  even 
from  the  interior  of  China.  He  commences  by  delivering  a  short 
lecture  to  the  people  on  the  blessings  of  Christianity,  and  then 
examines  the  cases.  He  says  the  people  live  so  entirely  on  vegeta- 
ble diet,  and  have  so  little  inflammation  in  their  systems,  that 
after  an  operation  they  hardly  suppurate  enough  for  the  wound  to 
heal.  He  performed  a  few  operations,  none  of  much  interest. 
We  made  an  excursion  to  Potinqua's  (another  wealthy  Chinese 
merchant)  garden  this  afternoon,  and  returned  through  a  curious 
little  canal,  bounded  by  houses,  their  foundation  walls  forming 
its  sides.  In  the  canal  we  passed  one  of  those  huge  houses  of 
boats — then  through  several  streets  of  them,  all  brilliantly 
lighted,  as  if  for  a  gala  day ;  but  they  were  only  floating  restau- 
rants, where  the  Chinese  merchants  go  "to  enjoy  a  good  dinner, 
and  the  cool  air  to  stimulate  their  appetites — and  perhaps  get 


256  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

their  money's-wortli.  The  boats  were  curiously  carved  and 
gilded,  brilliantly  illuminated  by  chandeliers,  and  in  several  of 
them  we  saw  long  suites  of  rooms  and  lights. 

June  2dth. — Yesterday  I  saw  two  French  Jesuits  dressed  like 
the  Chinese,  with  long  tails,  and  had  I  not  known  they  were 
French,  should  have  taken  them  for  Chinese.  Mr.  F,  knew 
Hue,  the  Jesuit  missionary,  who  wrote  his  interesting  book  of 
travels  in  China.  There  are  a  number  of  Mormons  here,  who 
dress  in  fez,  turban,  and  long  white  gowns,  like  the  natives  of 
India.  This  is  a  happy  day.  The  ice  ship  has  at  last  arrived, 
and  there  are  great  rejoicings.  This  morning  again  with  Dr. 
Parker  to  his  Hospital  and  Eye  Infirmary.  After  he  had  per- 
formed a  few  operations  I  left.  The  heat  was  over  90°,  and  not 
a  breath  of  air,  and  I  was  surrounded  by  one  or  two  hundred  not 
"particularly  nice"  Chinese.  I  had  to  leave  to  avoid  being 
stifled,  and  untimely  terminating  my  tour.  This  afternoon  a 
xmall  Eussian  war  steamer  came  to  anchor  opposite  the  Hong, 
and  shortly  after  the  admiral  and  three  of  his  officers  called  on 

Mr.  F .     They  took  tea  with  us,  and  the  admiral  is  to  stay 

with  us. 

June  ZOth. — The  admiral  and  officers  all  breakfasted  here.  He 
is  an  aide-de-camp  to  the  emperor.  He  says  that  thirty  years  ago 
he  was  at  San  Francisco,  in  California.  This  afternoon  went  to 
another  of  Potinqua's  gardens ;  curiously  arranged,  almost  entirely 
of  tanks  filled  with  the  lotus  in  full  bloom.  The  only  soil  was 
in  the  paths  and  divisions  between  the  tanks.  I  saw  no  dwarf 
trees  of  any  consequence,  though  the  Chinese  are  said  to  be 

celebrated  for  their  success  in  the  art  of  dwarfing.     Mr.  F 

said  he  had  eaten  many  a  Chinese  dinner  here.  At  one  of  these 
dinners  they  had  to  stop  at  the  fiftieth  course,  which  was  stewed 
duck's  feet !  He  said  first  they  sat  down  to  a  beautiful  European 
dinner,  and  after  they  had  gone  all  through  its  various  courses, 
a  very  recherche  Chinese  dinner  followed — bird's-nest  soup,  etc., 


THE   RUSSIANS  IN  CHINA.  257 

When  tliey  stopped  for  want  of  ability  and  capacity,  the  host 
said  that  was  not  half  the  dinner.  Bird's-nest  soup  is  made 
from  the  gelatine  matter  that  "cements  the  fibres  of  the  nest  of  a 
peculiar  bird  that  lives  on  almost  inaccessible  and  deserted  cliffs. 
It  is  obtained  by  the  natives  with  great  difficulty  and  risk ; 
hence,  its  value.  The  birds  collect  a  substance  they  find  on  the 
tops  of  the  waves,  and  use  it  for  the  purpose  of  securing  the 
materials  of  their  nests  together.  Their  nests,  when  collected  by 
the  natives,  are  washed  with  great  care,  and  the  gelatine  pre- 
served.    Mr.  F told  me  it  was  perfectly  tasteless. 

Potinqua  is  at  present  the  collector  of  the  salt  duties.  The 
Emperor  usually  appoints  the  collector  at  his  pleasure,  compels 
him  to  take  the  ofiice,  and  pay  an  enormous  annual  sum,  which 
generally  ruins  him  in  the  end.  Admiral  Poltrettein  has  tried 
to  obtain  an  interview  with  the  governor  of  Canton,  but  he  has 

not  succeeded.     This  afternoon  the  admiral  and  Mr.  S 

went  to  the  Honan  Temple,  and  Mr.  F^ and  I  cooled 

ourselves  with  a  game  of  billiards — the  thermometer  at  five 
o'clock  standing  at  91° ! ! 

Yesterday  the  admiral  sent  his  despatches  to  the  governor  of 
Canton,  and  received  his  reply  just  before  he  sat  down  to  break- 
fast. He  got  the  translation  shortly,  dictated  his  answer,  and 
before  he  had  finished,  the  despatch  in  reply  to  the  governor  was 
ready.  I  give  this  incident  as  illustrating  the  knowledge  pos- 
sessed by  their  interpreters  of  the  Chinese  language.  With  the 
English,  French,  or  our  people,  it  is  the  work  of  a  day  to  make 
up  a  proper  Chinese  translation  of  a  despatch. 

The  Eussians  for  two  centuries,  have  had  an  embassy  at  Pekin, 
and  they  are  allowed  a  certain  number  of  priests,  who  must  be 
changed  every  ten  years,  and  in  that  way  multitudes  become 
familiar  with  the  language.  They  also  had  two  hundred  Tartar 
soldiers,  as  a  guard  to  the  embassy  at  first,  and  the  admiral 
thought,  by  their  remaining  in  the  country,  and  intermarrying 
with  the  Chinese,  and  the  services  of  the  Greek  Church  being 
kept  up  by  the  succession  of  Greek  priests  at  the  embassy  for 

17 


258  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

the  benefit  of  these  people  and  their  descendants,  the  ceremonies 
have  gradually  crept  into  the  Bhnddist  services ;  and  that  is 
the  reason  of  the  great  resemblance  between  the  ceremonies  in 
the  Bhuddist  temples  and  his  own  (the  Greek)  church,  a  circum- 
stance that  strvick  me  when  I  saw  them,  as  well  as  him  this 
afternoon,  when  he  was  at  the  temple. 

July  2d. — This  morning  the  Eussians  started  on  their  return 
to  Hong-Kong,  where  the  frigate — a  fifty-two-gun  ship  lies.  To 
day  a  young  Baron  Kreudner  dined  with  us.  He  is  on  board 
the  frigate  in  some  capacity — I  don't  know  what.  His  uncle 
was  a  former  Minister  from  Kussia  to  the  United  States.  He 
has  on  his  card,  aide-de-camp  to  the  Grand  Dulce  Constantine  (which 
does  not  mean  very  much,  as  I  believe  these  imperial  dignitaries 
have  about  a  hundred  aides  apiece.)  This  said  Grand  Duke  occu- 
pies the  anomalous  position  of  admiral  in  the  navy,  and  gene- 
ral in  the  army.  The  Baron,  breathing  the  atmosphere  of  this 
ambitious  duke,  has  the  same  large  views  of  annexation,  and 
very  likely  somewhat  colored  by  the  sentiment  they  express. 

July  4ith. — The  Baron  started  for  Canton  to  day.    Mr.  H , 


and  one  or  two  other  acquaintances  dined  with  us ;  we  had  a 

good  laugh  at  H ,  who  dined  with  us  yesterday:  the  Baron 

inquired  who  he  was,  remarking  he  looked  like  a  very  distinguished 
man.  This  evening  the  Americans  had  quite  a  display  of  fire- 
works in  the  garden.  The  John  Bulls,  freshly  from  London, 
were  down  in  numbers,  expressing  great  fears  lest  the  city,  and 
even  the  people  themselves,  should  be  set  on  fire  by  the  works, 
and  wondering  what  the  Americans  were  "making  such  a  bloody 
row  about.  Is  it  for  Bunker  Hill,  or  what?"  Some  of  the 
English  here  are  very  good  fellows,  but  most  of  them  are  pre- 
cious small,  and  there  is  not  much  love  lost  between  them  and 
the  Americans. 

Col.  M ,  our  Minister,  said  (when  he  was  here  a  few 

months  ago)  in  graphic  western  style,  "I'll  be  d — d  if  the  Ame- 
ricans wouldn't  rather  fight  the  English  than  eat."     Yesterday, 


"young  AMERICA."  259 

heard  of  the  further  success  of  the  rebels,  and  their  march  this 
way  with  a  Large  force.  At  present  the  weather  is  so  hot, 
neither  party  can  do  very  much.  The  Chinese  Imperial  Admi- 
ral is  about  buying  a  small  steamer  of  some  of  the  merchants 
here.  It  has  created  considerable  discussion  whether  it  will  pre- 
judice the  cause  of  the  rebels  with  whom  they  sympathize.     Mr. 

F told  the  Chinamen  in  his  employ  to  day,  this  was  "a 

No.  1  first  day  with  Americans,  that  once,  great  while  go,  we 
were  all  the  same  to  the  English,  just  like  Typing-wang  men  to 
Emperor."  They  enjoyed  the  joke,  entering  into  all  the  ani- 
mosities of  their  masters.  We  have  noticed  frequently  of  late, 
the  Chinese  carrying  matchlocks  and  bows,  an  unusual  sight — it 
looks  like  rebellion. 

July  6th. — I've  been  developing  my  artistic  genius  in  learning 

to  paint,  all  the  morning.     This  afternoon,  S and  I  had  a 

sail  in  the  Atlanta,  Mr.  F 's  yacht,  while  he  alternated 

between  dozing,  reading  reviews,  and  admiring  his  yacht  from 
the  cabin  of  his  Hong  boat,  as  she  lay  at  anchor. 

By  the  way,  I  forgot  to  apprise  you  I  had  turned  juvenile 
again  in  my  habits — a  positive  fact.  I've  got  to  wearing  jackets, 
or  "roundabouts."  The  people  of  India,  and  this  country,  by 
way  of  greater  comfort  in  the  warm  weather,  have  adopted  the 
fashion  of  jacket,  vest,  and  trowsers  of  white,  for  full  dress  at  a 
dinner  or  evening  party  during  the  warm  weather.     Sensible^ 

isn't  it  ?     There  is  a  young  O from  New  York  here,  who,. 

for  his  quintessence  of  quadrupled  assurance,  if  you  can  realize 
such  a  quantum  of  "brass,"  and  this  not  half  describing  him,  is 
known  by  the  title  of"  "  Young  America."  The  English  don't 
know  what  to  make  of  his  astonishing  assurant  way  of  talking' 
down  every  person,  no  matter  what  age,  by  always  taking  the 
opposite  side  of  everything  said,  and  bearing  them  down  by  the 
clear  weight  of  assurance  and  tongue — but  neither  elegant  po- 
lished wit,  nor  cleverness.  He  is  constantly  invited  out  by 
English  to  dinner,  as  a  curiosity,  to  see  him  "go  it." 


260  FROM   "WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

July  7 ill,  "Whampoa. — At  four  this  afternoon,  Mr.  F ,  and 

I  started  in  his  yacht,  the  Atlanta,  for  Macao,  stopping  at  this 
place  for  the  night.  I've  been  so  long  at  Canton,  I  quite  regi'et 
to  leave  it,  notwithstanding  our  narrow  limits,  and  the  pleasant 
greetings  one  meets  from  all  the  people,  man,  woman,  and  child, 
in  passing  the  native  boats  in  the  river,  of  Fanqui  Low  (Foreign 
Devil) ;  besides  drawing  their  hands  across  their  throats  as  indi- 
cative of  cutting  your  throat,  and  drawing  their  hands  down  their 
face,  and  jerking  them  as  if  throwing  their  impurities  at  you.  I 
have  often  been  amused  by  the  captain  of  the  English  brig-of-war 
stationed  off  the  Hongs  as  a  guard  for  them.  He  almost  boils 
with  rage  as  he  speaks  of  the  insults  of  the  people  to  him,  as  he 
goes  to  and  from  his  vessel.  This  is  the  result  of  the  prestige 
of  this  city,  which  was  very  near  being  destroyed  a  few  years 
since.  There  was  some  payment  to  be  made,  part  of  the  Chinese 
and  English  treaty ;  the  Chinese  did  not  pay,  when  a  regiment 
was  sent  up  from  Hong-kong,  and  they  had  until  midday  to  pay. 
They  waited  until  the  very  last  minute  before  they  paid.  An 
acquaintance  told  me  he  asked  a  soldier  who  was  standing  with 
his  musket  in  his  hand,  if  they  were  about  to  attack  the  city, 
"  By  jabers,  and  I  wish  they  would,"  said  the  fellow,  shaking  his 
musket,  his  eyes  sparkling  with  the  anticipated  sport. 

At  the  time  of  the  settlement  of  the  treaty  in  the  war  of  1842 
with  China,  Howqua,  one  of  the  twelve  Hong  merchants,  (as 
those  were  termed,  who  were  allowed  to  trade  with  foreigners), 
was  to  pay  the  $1,500,000  to  the  English  agent  at  Macao,  and  it 
was  agreed  it  should  be  done  by  three  notes,  or  bills,  for 
$500,000  each,  drawn  by  Eussell  &  Co.,  at  that  time,  and  now, 
the  American  house  in  China.  For  the  joke,  it  was  agreed  by  the 
three  partners  at  Canton,  that  each  would  sign  one  note  for  the 
firm,  to  say  they  had  signed  a  note  for  that  amount,  and  Messrs. 
Green,  King,  and  Hunter,  w^ere  the  three.  Passed  on  our  way, 
as  we  came  to  anchor,  the  Flying  Childers,  six  days  from  Shang- 
hae,  beating  all  the  ships  that  started  six  and  eight  days  before 
her.     She  brings  news  of  the  "  Touti's  "  return  to  Shanghae,  and 


AMERICAN   ENTERPRISE.  261 

that  lie  says  his  foreign  soldiers  object  to  Jight  ivithout  jpay  !  And 
of  General  Marshall's  proclamation,  for  all  Americans  to  refrain 
from  assisting:;  the  rebels. 

"We  spent  the  evening  on  board  an  old  hulk,  which  an  enter- 
prising Yankee  skipper  has  converted  into  dwelling  house, 
store-ship,  etc.  By  his  honesty  and  enterprise,  he  has  gained  the 
confidence  of  all  here,  English,  Americans,  and  others. 

To  Mr.  E.  B.  Forbes,  the  late  head  of  the  house  of  Eussell  and 

Company,  Canton,  (the  cousin  of  my  friend,  Mr.  F ,  the 

present  head  of  that  house),  is  due  the  credit  of  suggesting  that  the 
importance  and  value  of  our  trade  with  China  not  only  require 
but  demand  new  and  accurate  surveys  of  the  China  seas ;  that 
the  dangers  which  constantl}^  beset  the  navigator  at  almost  every 
mile,  from  currents,  shoals,  and  small  islands,  may  be  correctly 

pointed  out.     From  Mr.  E.  B.  F 's  long  experience  here 

he  was  fully  conversant  with  the  great  and  most  serious  defects 
in  all  the  best  charts  then  in  existence  ; — and  that  surveys  were 
then  needed  from  the  extent  of  commerce,  as  well  as  from  the 
prospective  increased  value  of  it,  arising  from  the  rapidly  grow- 
ing State  of  California. 

Mr.  Forbes  first  made  the  suggestion  to  Lieutenant  Page  of 
our  navy,  who  was  then  stopping  with  him,  and  it  was  upon  the 
representations  of  those  gentlemen,  and  a  paper  prepared  by  them, 
that  the  matter  was  first  brought  before  the  Navy  Department, 
and  eventually  before  Congress,  and  the  appropriation  made  for 
the  purpose.  Lieutenant  Page  was  to  have  had  the  command  of 
the  expedition,  but  from  some  change  in  the  Cabinet,  and  arrange- 
ment of  the  vessels  to  compose  it,  owing  to  his  rank  of  Lieute- 
nant, the  command  was  given  to  another,  and  he  offered  an  infe- 
rior position  in  it,  which  he  naturally  declined,  as  he  could  not 
father  his  own  plan.  He  was  afterwards  placed  in  command  of 
the  La  Plata  expedition,*  To  the  enterprise  of  the  Messrs. 
Forbes,  are  also  due  many  of  the  improvements  in  the  American 

*  He  has  lately  published  a  valuable  and  i)\teresting  account  of  that 
expedition. 


262  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

ships  that  navigate  these  waters,  as  well  as  the  American  steam- 
ers at  Canton,  and  a  fine  tow-boat  now  on  its  way  to  Shanghae, 
as  the  current  in  the  Yang-tze-Kiang  is  very  rapid,  besides  the 
danger  from  shoals. 

July  8th,  Macao. — At  four  this  morning,  sailed  with  a  crack- 
ing breeze,  and  lots  of  heavy  squalls  on  all  sides,  which  we  man- 
aged to  dodge  through  the  skill  of  Mr.  F and  his  yacht 

captain,  a  first-rate  Chinaman.  We  had  a  delightful  sail,  and 
though  the  wind  and  tide  were  both  against  us,  we  got  here  in 
fourteen  hours.  The  yacht  is  a  perfect  "beauty"  in  every 
respect,  to  seamen  or  landsmen.     We  landed,  and  took  possession 

of  Mr.  F 's  new  quarters,  his  married  partner  having  just 

taken  their  former  house  for  his  family.  It  is  a  perfect  barrack 
of  a  house  for  size.  My  room  is  numbered  fourteen,  and  I 
think  his  is  eighteen.      How    much   higher  they   run   I  can't 

say.     Making  our  land  toilet,  we  went  to  Mr.  T 's,  Mr. 

F 's  partner.     His  wife  and  sister  have  just  arrived  from 

the  United  States.      Then  to  the  French  Ambassador's,  Mr. 

B .     His  wife  is  a  most  pleasing  person,  an  American, 

who  has  travelled,  seen  much  of  the  world,  and  is  very  accom- 
plished. 

Juhj  9th. — This  morning  a  friend  of  Mr.  F breakfasted 

with  us,  a  patriarchal-looking  Frenchman,  with  a  silver  beard 
that  would  have  rivalled  Aaron's.  After  breakfast,  we  spent 
the  day  at  his  house,  playing  billiards.  This  said  French- 
man is  an  amusing,  curious,  crusty  old  fellow,  crabbed  as  possi- 
ble, his  nerves  being  sadly  "out  of  joint"  from  the  effects  of  a 
gun  bursting  while  he  was  shooting,  a  few  weeks  ago,  and  from 
which  he  is  still  suffering.  He  has  an  armory  of  odd-looking 
rusty  old  guns.  As  for  dogs — why  his  house  is  a  kennel !  At 
one  time  ten  pointers  came  rushing  into  the  billiard-room,  through 
doors,  windows,  and  every  other  hole.  I'm  sure  I  don't  know 
how  many  more  dogs  he  has,  but  more  than  I  should  like,  dog 


A   ROUND  OF  VISITS.  263 

fancier  that  I  am,  unless  they  were  more  quiet  and  peace- 
able. They  were  howling,  growling,  and  barking  on  all  sides, 
at  every  door,  under  every  sofa,  and  'under  my  feet  at  every 
step. 

Then  home  for  toilet,  and  to  Mr.  S 's  for  dinner.     This 

evening  called  on  Captain   E ,  and  at  Mrs.  H 's, 

where  we  finished  the  evening.  I  had  never  seen  her,  not  even 
in  New  York,  and  was  delighted  with  her.  If  a  man  is  obliged 
to  exile  himself  thus  far  from  home,  to  make  a  second  fortune, 

as  H is  (his  first  being  lost),  he  is  to  be  envied  in  having 

such  a  wife  who  would  make  a  paradise  a  desert,  and  I  know  he 
thinks  as  I  do  of  her  charming  qualities. 

July  10th. — F and  I  took  a  dayhght  swim  in  the  harbor, 

after  which    our    patriarchal  Frenchman  came    to    breakfast. 

Next  a  visit  from  Captain  D .     Mr.  F took  me  to 

see  some  nice  old  friends  of  his,  English  people,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

S .     Mr.  S was  formerly  in  the  East  India  service. 

"We  had  a  long  talk  about  India,  having  many  mutual  acquaint- 
ances— they  had  lived  in  the  Bombay  presidency.  We  then  called 
on  the  Governor — a  pleasant  Portuguese  of  about  forty.  He 
speaks  English.     After  a  walk,  dined  this  evening  at  Madame 

B 's — a  pleasant  party  of  eight  or  ten  guests,  the  Governor 

being  among  the  number.  In  the  evening  several  others  drop- 
ped in.     Madame  B sung  delightfully  for  us. 

July  lli'/i.-*-The  weather  is  horribly  stormy,  but  we  managed 

to  get  to  D 's  in  sedan  chairs,  to  play  billiards,  and  then  to 

Mr.  S 's  for  dinner.    Like  all  ladies  who  have  no  children, 

she  is  very  fond  of  pets,  and  has  a  lot  of  dogs,  parrots,  and 

cockatoos,  who  make  a  constant  bedlam.     Mr.  S has  a 

house  full  of  curiosities,  sketches  on  the  Chinese  coast,  by  offi- 
cers of  the  navy,  a  piece  of  the  "great  wall,"  a  bit  of  porcelain 
from  the  porcelain  tower  at  Nankin,  etc.  Afterwards  finished 
the  evening  at  Captain  E 's. 


264  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

July  12th. — Mr,  Forbes,  wishing  to  return  to  Canton,  sent  for 
his  yaclit  captain,  Assam  (Anglice — Sam),  a  weather  oracle,  to 
know  what  the  weather  would  be.  He  looked  wise,  scratched 
his  head,  and  gave  about  as  definite  an  opinion  as  Captain  Cut- 
tle's friend.  Jack  Bunsby  did.     Called  on  the  U,  S,  Consul, 

Mr,  De  S .     Then  came  billiards  as  usual,  and  we  dined 

at  S — 's,  after  which,  I  dropped  in  next  door  on  Dr.  and 

Mrs.  P from  Canton,     In  the  evening,  at  Mrs.  H 's 

— she  was  even  more  charming  than  before.     TVe  finished  the 

evening   at   Madame   B 's,  who,  from  her  position   and 

accomplishments,  is  the  person  in  Macao,  though  pretty  little 

Mrs.  H is  much  more  to  my  taste.     To-morrow  we  are  to 

dine  at  Madame  B 's. 

Jul//  ISfh. — Mr.  F is   about  leaving  for  the   United 

States,  and  so  he  is  out  paying  farewell  visits,  and  I've  been 
engaged  all  the  morning  writing  letters  of  introduction  to  friends 
in  Bombay,  where  I've  advised  him  to  stop  and  take  a  glimpse 
of  some  of  the  curiosities.     Then  came  our  usual  amusement  at 

D 's;  visit  from  S ,  and  this  evening  at  Madame 

B 's  to  dine, 

Jiihj  1-ith. — This  morning  Mr.  F started  for  Canton. 

I've  been  painting,  and  this  afternoon  had  a  walk  of  five  or  six 
miles,  to  the  barrier  line  of  the  Portuguese  possessions.  I  got 
caught  in  the  rain.     The  scenery  is  fine,  varied  by  hills,  valleys, 

and  bay.      This  evening  called  at  Mrs.  H 's.     I  came  in, 

just  in  time  to  see  her  pretty  little  children ;  we  were  acquainted 
in  a  very  few  minutes,  and  it  seemed  quite  like  home  when  they 

fill  came  and  kissed  me  for  good  night.     Mrs.  H was 

going  out  to  spend  the  evening,  and  invited  me  to  accompany 

her  to  Mrs.  Williams,  Mr.  TV is  an  American  Missionary, 

and  among  the  most  highly  esteemed  and  the  best  informed 

here,     Mrs.  "W" is  a  niece  of  an  ex-chancellor  of  our  State, 

and  cousin  of  Mrs.  A B ,  we  met  Dr.  and  Mrs.  P 


7; 

z 
> 


DEPARTURE   FOR  HONG-KONG.  265 

here  and  passed  a  pleasant  evening,  though  I  should  have 
enjoyed  much  more,  a  quiet  chat  with  Mrs.  H , 

July  15(h. — Now  Mr.  F is  gone,  I  am  more  domestic, 

and  have  become  a  devotee  of  the  fine  arts.     This  morning  I 

called  at  Mrs.  S 's,  and  dined  by  invitation  at  Mrs.  H 's. 

Met  Mrs.  E .  and  Mr.  S .  After  dinner,  while  sur- 
rounded  by  the  children,  for  whom  I  was  making  bouquets, 

Madame  B called.      She  had    just  received  from  the 

Empress  of  France  a  reply  to  her  congratulatory  letter  on  her 

marriage — Madm.  B •  having  known  her  intimately  as  a 

young  lady  in  Spain.  Then  came  home,  and  I've  been  study- 
ing at  books  on  India. 

Juhj  IQih. — I  was  off  at  daybreak  for  a  sketch  of  Macao, 
and  though  I  got  caught  in  six  rain  squalls — succeeded  in  getting 

a  very  good  view.     After  breakfast  I  called  on  D ,  where 

I  saw  Dr.  and  Mrs.  P ,  then  at  S 's  with  whom  I  am 

to  dine  to-morrow.  This  afternoon  have  been  out  trying  to 
sight-see,  but  found  nothing  but  Camoens'  Cave.  The  steamer 
for  Hong-Kong  is  in,  so  went  to  Mrs.  H 's  to  bid  her  good- 
bye— she  was  out,  and  I  continued  on  to  Madm.  B 's  to 

make  my  adieu  also;    Mrs.  H happened  to  be  there. 

These  are  the  two   most  agreeable    countrywomen  I've   met 

since  I've  been  abroad.     Madm.  B told  me  to  call  on  the 

French  Consul's  wife  at  Singapore,  and  she  would  write  by  the 
mail  to  say  I  was  to  call  on  her. 

Juhj  17ih,  HoxG-KoNG.— Up  at  4  a.m.,  and  off  by  the 
steamer.  We  have  had  a  miserable,  wet,  rough,  squally  day, 
and  reached  here  at  twelve.  Met  an  officer  acquaintance  at 
church,  and  strolled  to  the  barracks,  where  I  dined. 

July  18//?,  Will. — I've  been  amusing  myself  for  the  two  past 
mornings,  in   painting   or   studying  future   tours   in   the   club 


266  FROM   WALL   STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

library.     Spent  the  afternoon  in  long  walks,  and  visiting  friends 

at  the  barracks.     Last  evening  I  took  tea  at  Mrs.  D 's, 

and  met  a  curious  customer — a  Mr.  Harris,  of  New  York,  who" 
has  been  cruising  about  in  the  Pacific  for  the  last  four  or  five 
years — California,  South  America,  and  the  Islands;  and  last 
from  Shanghae,  where  he  said  he  went  into  the  interior  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.     He  is  an  awful  liar,  besides  a 

beast  of  a  drunkard,  so  I  won't  vouch  for  his  veracity.     F 

ordered  him  out  of  his  counting-room  once  for  impertinence  and 

drunkenness,  and  the  late  consul,  Mr.  B ,  even  threatened 

to  kick  him  out,  unless  he  made  a  speedy  exit.'^ 

This  afternoon  I  went  out  sailing  with  an  officer  friend,  who 
has  a  small  American  sail-boat ;  as  he  upset  her  in  the  harbor 
yesterday  with  half-a-dozen  fellow-ofiicers,  I  stipulated  for  the 
management.  We  had  a  pleasant  sail,  and  in  the  evening  I 
dined  at  the  mess.  The  weather  is  intensely  hot  here  after  the 
sea  breezes  at  Macao,  and  this  is  the  least  pleasant  of  the  three 
places  here.  All  the  merchants  have  houses  at  Macao,  where 
their  families  remain  during  the  summer  months.  Then  the 
steamers  run  every  day  to  and  fro  from  Canton.  There  is  a 
small  American  steamer  here  (built  by  Mr.  Forbes,  who  had  her 
first  set  up  in  the  United  States,  and  her  pieces  put  together 
here),  that  makes  her  fifty  per  cent,  a  year,  while  the  English 
boats  lose  money. 

July  20(Ji. — At  six  this  morning,  went  with  an  officer  for  a 
sketch  of  Hong  Kong.  I  breakfasted  at  the  barracks  on  the 
way  home.  This  afternoon  several  of  the  officers  made  up  a 
party  with  me  for  Karling,  a  small  town  nearly  opposite,  on  the 
bay.  As  the  last  party  was  nearly  killed  by  assault,  and  a  war 
steamer  had  to  take  up   a  position   opposite   the   town,  and 

*  This  same  worthy  individual  is  now  the  grand  flourish  of  a  consul-general 
at  Japan,  and  doubtless  liis  accounts  are  rehable,  when  there  is  no  one  to 
contradict !  Oh  !  tempora,  oh  !  mores,  when  we  are  obhged  to  be  represented 
by  some  dignitaries  who  are  selected  to  go  abroad. 


ENGLISH   IGNORANCE   OF   AMERICAN  AFFAIRS.  267 

threatened  to  batter  it  down  if  they  did  not  give  up  the  culprits 
— "we  each  took  our  revolvers,  "  and  a  good  bit  of  cane  "  for 
sliilalah.  Fortunately  for  all.  parties  we  found  the  people  very 
civil.  The  town  was  curious  and  especially  dirty.  The  most 
amusing  thing  we  saw,  was  the  "mustering"  of  some  recruits 
before  a  military  mandarin.  The  old  fellow  sat  at  a  table  out 
of  doors,  the  men  formed  a  circle  around  him,  each  armed  with 
a  matchlock,  which  looked  more  dangerous  to  them  than  their 
enemies.  As  the  men's  names  were  called  off  they  advanced, 
after  a  few  questions  they  tumbled  down  on  their  knees  and 
bobbed  their  heads  on  the  ground,  and  then  rising,  retired — a 
new  dodge  in  military  salutations — perhaps  indicating  the  wil- 
lingness to  perform  for  their  masters  the  excess  of  the  Indian 
expression  of  humility,  z.e.,  "eat  dirt."  We  then  returned  to 
Hong-KoDg,  which  we  reached  at  nine  in  the  evening. 

July  2\st^  22c?. — Reading,  writing  letters,  and  studying  up 

tours.     I  received  a  very  friendly  note  from  Mrs.  S ,  with 

two  letters  of  introduction  for  Calcutta.     This  morning  I  was 

surprised  by  hearing  S 's  voice  in  the  hall.     He  had  come 

down  with  F to  see  him  off.     F ,  S ,  and  I, 

breakfasted   at  W and  A 's.     After  getting  our 

tickets,  Ve  "  did  up"  some  visiting,  our  three  sedan  chairs  form- 
ing quite  a  jd recession. 

This  evening  I  took  my  farewell  dinner  at  the  59th  mess ;  as 
they  knew  I  was  to  leave  by  the  steamer  to-morrow,  I  was  asked 
to  take  wine  by  every  officer  at  the  table.  The  band  played 
"Yankee  Doodle,"  as  usual  whenever  I  was  present,  if  it  played 
that  evening. 

It  is  singular  how  ignorant  the  English  (proper)  are,  or  pre- 
tend to  be,  of  the  United  States.  Why,  we  know  more  of  every 
State  in  Europe,  however  insignificant,  than  they  do  of  us,  who 
are  England's  greatest  rival  in  commerce,  science,  and  her  prin- 
cipal manufactures ;  and  to  whom  she  is  so  much  indebted  for 
the  main  support  of  her  people,  by  our  cotton,  and  our  consump- 


268  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

tion  of  her  fabrics.  At  the  same  time  the  Indian  English,  with 
all  their  isolation,  have  more  enlarged  minds  and  general  know- 
ledge of  the  world,  than  their  more,  wealthy  and  vain  countrymen 
at  "  home,"  who  have  to  spend  six  months  a  year  within  the 
sound  of  "Bow  bells,"  toyprevent  a  contraction  of  some  incompre- 
hensible accent  or  j^atois — an  exemption  that  Americans,  in  their 
vast  territory  of  from  four  to  six  millions  of  square  miles,  are  free 
from.  An  officer  of  the  59th  said  to  me  yesterday,  in  speaking 
of  nobility,  "  Er — r —  you  have  nobility  in  America,  the  same  as 
we  do  I  supjDose  " — as  if  he  had  forgotten  what  a  republic  meant. 
I  don't  feel  surprised  at  English  pride  and  vanity  over  the  con- 
tinentals, to  whom  they  are  and  ever  have  been  superior  in 
almost  every  respect,  and  especially  in  the  sinews  of  war,  not- 
withstanding their  small  size  and  immense  territory  to  be  guarded ; 
but  I  do  censure  their  pretended  ignorance  and  stupidity  about 
all  else  but  their  own  affairs,  as  if  they  alone  engrossed  the  sole 
attention  of  the  world,  and  an  Englishman,  wherever  he  goes,  to 
be  worshipped  as  a  superior  being.  I  should  feel  vain  too,  if  I 
were  an  Englishman,  and  saw  what  my  country  had  accom- 
plished, and  how  superior  in  all  that  gave  power,  influence,  and 
respect,  she  was  to  the  rest  of  Europe.  But  when  it  comes  to 
America,  they  must  change  their  tone.  "We  have  shown  our- 
selves superior  to  them  in  our  contests.  In  a  hundred  years  we 
have  twice  shook  off  their  arbitrary  yoke,  and  in  that  time 
created  a  commercial  marine  that  all  but  equals  their  own 
boasted  one.  We  have  taught  them,  in  science,  the  application 
of  steam  to  boats,  the  telegraph  and  use  of  lightning  rods,  the 
theory  of  storms,  the  probability  of  a  telegraphic  cable  across 
the  Atlantic;*  in  practical  life,  how  to  build  fast  ships  and  yachts ; 
and  in  the  Chinese  seas,  the  possibility  of  breasting  the  monsoons 
— a  thing  not  done  until  within  a  few  years,  when  the  example 
was  set  by  ovir  bold  and  skilful  China  captains  ;  and  in  our  print- 
ing presses,  etc. 

*  Now  reduced  to  a  certainty  by  the  one  lately  laid. 


CANTON-ENGLISH.  269 

July  23c?,  At  Sea. — Breakfasted  with  A ,  where  I  met 

Col.  Kean — an  old  Indian  officer — then  packed  np,  and  off  on  the 
steamer.     There  are  very  few  passengers,  three  Englishmen,  two 

Spaniards  and  the  wife  of  one,  with  Mr.  F and  I,  make  up 

the  number. 

This  is  my  third  step  homeward — from  Canton  being  my  first — 
sweet  as  the  sound  and  pleasant  the  anticipations,  I've  before  me 
many  a  long  day  and  weary  league  before  I  accomplish  the  dis- 
tance, and  view  all  the  intervening  sights.  I  should  have 
enjoyed  very  much  a  visit  to  Ning-Po ;  it  is  a  curious  town,  and 
the  resort  of  wealthy  retired  merchants.  In  the  private  houses 
at  Canton,  Macao  and  Hong-Kong,  I  saw  much  of  their  curiously 
inlaid  furniture.  It  is  done  in  ivory  and  woods,  representing 
animals,  trees,  etc. 

The  Canton-English,  as  it  Ls  termed  here,  is  most  ridiculous — 
a  compound  of  Chinese,  Portuguese  and  English — so  abbreviated, 
turned  and  twisted  in  a  sentence,  that  one  hardly  knows  what  he 
is  saying.  They  have  at  Canton,  all  the  variety  of  temperate 
climate  fruits,  and  many  we  are  not  accustomed  to,  that  are 
delicious.  The  sea  is  now  rough,  and  the  barometer  is  falling. 
The  captain,  apprehensive  of  a  typhoon,  has  taken  in  all  sail. 

I  should  like  to  see  one — but  not  be  in  it.     S was  caught 

in  a  typhoon  coming  to  China  three  months  ago,  and  the  captain 
being  nervous  and  timid,  resigned  the  charge  of  the  ship  to  his 
first  mate ! 

July  24,  25,  and  26. — Pleasant.     Passed  a  ship  yesterday  and 

to-day  in  sight  of  land.     S and  I  have  been  enjoying  the 

breeze  all  the  evening  on  top  of  the  paddle-box,  and  he  is  a  capital 
companion  at  sea.  This  evening  we  saw  shooting  stars,  and  a 
brilliant  meteor  that  came  down  ^vith  a  train  like  a  comet,  burst- 
inor  near  the  sea. 


o 


July  31. — Sunday — the  usual  routine,  mustering  the  crew  for 
inspection,  and  a  curious  sight  it  is,  each  in  his  gala  dress — and 


270  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

such  a  medley  of  nations,  colors,  and  costumes ! — Some  of  the  Mus- 
sulmen,  for  sash  to  their  white  gowns,  splice  two  or  three  pocket 
handkerchiefs.  Then  came  prayers  (the  Episcopal  service)  in  the 
cabin.  Our  portly  captain  on  one  side  of  the  table,  and  the 
doctor,  with  corresponding  dimensions  on  the  other,  officiating  as 
clerk ;  while  the  passengers,  and  those  of  the  crew  who  wish  to 
attend,  are  scattered  about  the  cabin.  This  evening  we  are  in 
the  Straits  of  Malacca,  and  have  passed  several  islands. 

August  1st  and  2nd^  SINGAPORE. — The  steamer  anchored  here 

yesterday  morning.      Mr.  F took  me  to  call  on  Mr,  and 

Madame  G ,  the  French  consul  and  his  wife — with  whom  I 

was  much  pleased.  On  our  way  home  we  found  a  prize  in  the 
form  of  a  basket  of  mangustines,  and  I  wish  you  were  here  to 
enjoy  them  with  us ;  they  are  indescribably  delicious. 

On  unpacking  some  of  my  luggage  I  found  a  bag  filled  with 
pulverized  charcoal,  and  a  trunk  with  an  innumerable  population 

of  ants.      At  breakfast  Mr.  F introduced  me  to  a  Mr. 

T of  Boston,  who  is  out  here  temporarily  on  business. 

This  morning  I  drove  Mr.  F to  the  steamer.     He  will  stop 

at  Bombay,  to  see  some  relatives,  and  the  curiosities  of  the  place 

and  neighborhood.     On  my  return  to  the  hotel  a  Mr.  E ,  a 

friend  of  F 's,  called  and  invited  me  to  dine  with  him  this 

afternoon.  He  has  a  pleasant  place  three  miles  out  of  town.  .  The 
drive  was  fine,  and  the  party  very  agreeable.  The  colonel  of 
the  regiment  here,  a  great  traveller  in  Burmah  and  Australia, 
and  two  or  three  lesser  notabilities  were  present. 

August  3c?  and  4:ih. — Yesterday  I  spent  in  reading,  driving, 
and  seeing  friends.  To-day  an  acquaintance  told  me  of  one  of 
the  odd  and  cruel  customs  of  the  natives  here,  which  he  saw 
about  a  year  since,  practised  by  the  poorer  people  to  regain  their 
caste,  when  they  have  not  money  to  buy  it  back.  A  dozen 
Malays  passed,  preceded  by  a  band  of  native  musicians,  the  whole 
followed  by  a  large  crowd,  each  of  the  twelve  having  his  tongue 


AN    AMUSING    STORY,  271 

drawn  out  as  far  as  possible,  and  tlien  a  silver  skewer  passed 
tkrougli  both  clieeks  and  tongue,  tlius  keeping  it  extended.  In 
that  way  they  marched  through  the  town.  The  next  day  they 
were  led  down  to  a  charcoal  pit  forty  feet  long,  filled  with  live 
coals,  when,  after  being  plied  with  liquor  till  they  were  nearly 
frantic,  they  rushed  across,  over  and  through  this  fire,  entirely 
naked,  except  the  three  feet  of  twine  and  pocket  handkerchief — 
winter  costume  of  the  Bombay  natives — ^reaching  the  opposite 
side  they  fall  into  a  pit  of  water. 

There  is  a  cousin  of  Gordon  Gumming,  the  celebrated  sports- 
man of  Southern  Africa,  a  Mr.  G ,  who  told  me  an  amus- 
ing story  of  his  experience  in  caste  a  few  years  ago,  when  he 
came  to  India.  He  and  two  or  three  other  young  civiHans,  took 
a  house  together.  Their  butler  transgressing  some  rules  they 
had  established,  they  told  him  if  he  did  so  again,  they  should  flog 
him.  He  did  so,  and  they  flogged  him.  He  complained  to  the 
civil  magistrate,  who  sent  for  them  to  know  what  it  meant. 
They  explained,  and  he  said  he  would  have  to  make  a  severe 
example  of  them,  as  they  were  civilians,  and  knew  better.  They 
said  they  knew  the  law,  and  amount  of  the  fine,  and  were  willing  to 
pay  it.  The  Judge  was  not  satisfied  with  this,  and  was  deter- 
mined to  make  an  example  of  them.  So  when  the  trial  came  on, 
the  plaintiff  told  his  story,  and  brought  his  witnesses  to  prove  it. 
The  first  man  (a  fellow-servant,  as  were  the  other  witnesses) 
stated  he  was  not  aware  of  the  man's  ever  having  been  flogged, 
that  he  had  been  about  the  house  all  day,  that  their  masters,  the 
Sahibs,  were  always  very  kind  and  indulgent  to  them — never 
even  scolding  them,  much  less  flogging,  or  even  threatening  to 
flog  them ;  and  that  the  butler  had  asked  permission  to  go  and 
see  some  of  his  friends  or  family  the  day  before  this  was  alleged 
to  have  occurred,  and  was  absent  several  days  by  permission  ;  so 
that  he  could  not  possibly  have  been  flogged,  and  during  the 
butler's  absence,  their  masters  were  almost  constantly  about  the 
house,  and  the  one  who  was  alleged  to  have  done  the  flogging 
was  sick  abed.     This   evidence   was  corroborated  by   all  the 


272  FKOM  WALL   STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

others.  The  Judge,  and  the  young  civilians,  were  perfectlj 
amazed,  as  well  as  the  plaintiff,  at  this  series  of  falsehoods ;  and 
afterwards,  asking  the  servants  what  it  meant,  they  said,  the  man 
flogged  was  a  high-caste  Hindoo,  and  if  it  had  been  known  he  had 
been  flogged,  it  would  have  cost  him  all  his  wages  for  months  to 
buy  into  his  caste  again,  and  so  they  lied  him  out  of  the  difficulty. 

August  5th  mid  Gth,  Sustgapore. — Yesterday,  studying,  draw- 
ing,  and    shopping,  and  in  the  evening  at  Madm.  G 's- 

Took  my  daylight  walk  as  usual  with  T ,  then  break- 
fast, shopping  and  sketching.     This  afternoon  out  driving  with 

T ,  and  this  evening  to  the  band.     This  hotel,  I  am  very 

sorry  to  say,  is  horrible,  and  to  make  the  matter  worse,  there  is 
no  opposition,  though  this  is  the  regular  stopping-place  for  the 
China  steamers,  which  are  here  four  times  a  month,  two  or  three 
days  each  time.  The  Australian  line  stop  here,  besides  a  host 
of  ship  captains.  Vessels  arrive  daily,  upwards  of  900  stop 
annually !  either  for  freight  or  provisions.  This  is  the  great  depot 
of  the  surrounding  islands. 

The  ship  captains  complain  terribly  of  the  state  of  affairs  in 
Australia ;  the  sailors  keeping  quite  the  upper  hand,  and  know- 
ing every  captain's  character.  In  fact,  the  latter  are  always 
obliged  to  produce  a  certificate  of  good  conduct  from  their  last 
crew,  before  a  single  sailor  will  ship.     An  American  captain 

here,  told  T he  had  been  obliged  to  put  two  of  his  sailors 

in  jail  when  he  arrived  in  port.  When  he  wished  to  sail  again, 
and  wanted  to  ship  a  crew,  the  men  all  refused  to  ship,  and 
laughed  at  him.  At  last,  happening  to  see  a  stranger,  who,  on 
being  asked  to  ship,  inquired  the  name  of  the  captain  and  vessel. 
When  told,  he  immediately  replied,  "Oh !  you're  the  captain  who 
has  got  men  in  jail."  The  captain  said  he  had  done  it  because 
they  would  not  work.  "You  did  right,  "replied  Jack;  "Well, 
where  you  going?"  "Batavia."  "Well,  my  terms  are  seventy 
pounds  cash  down."  The  captain  demurred  a  little  at  the  ex- 
travagant terms,  when  Jack  said,  "  Oh !  if  you  wish  security 


MORNING  WALKS.  273 

against  my  running  away,  I  can  let  you  liave  a  couple  of  thou- 
sand pounds."  This  is  only  one  of  the  many  particular 
instances  I've  heard. 

August  7ih. — T and  I  off  by  daylight  for  our  constitu- 
tional, the  only  time  one  can  take  exercise  in  this  climate.  We 
do  a  circuit  of  a  little  over  five  miles  in  the  hour,  literally 
making  it  exercise.  This  morning,  to  vary,  we  went  to  the  top 
of  the  hill,  on  which  the  government  house  is  situated,  whence 
there  is  a  lovely  view  of  the  harbor  and  surrounding  country. 
Here  added  the  seeds  of  ten  flowering  trees  to  my  collection. 

After  breakfast  to  church.     This  afternoon  T and  I  took 

a  turn  in  the  gharry  (the  name  of  a  kind  of  cab  with  four 
wheels).      This  evening  on  returning  from  church,  found  the 

card  of  Mr.  Gr ,  a  Boston  merchant  I  had  met  at  Penang. 

Going  in  the  room  of  a  friend,  I  happened  to  find  him.     lie  was 

here   when  Colonel   M stopped  on   his  way  to  China, 

G went  with  him  to  call  on  several  of  the  ofiicials,  the 

governor,  etc.  Col.  M going  in  his  dirty,  dusty,  shabby 

clothes,  just  as  he  came  from  the  steamer.  On  his  way  back 
after  some  apparent  deliberation,  he  remarked,  "Well,  these 

English  seem  to  be  pretty  decent  sort  of  folks."     G is 

very  anxious  for  me  to  go  to  Java  with  him,  and  I  have  almost 
decided  to  do  so,  as  my  steamer  has  not  arrived  yet  for  Calcutta, 
the  Java  scenery  is  so  fine,  and  their  exhibition  is  to  open 
on  the  1st  of  September. 

August  8th  and  9th. — My  usual  occupations  of  morning  walks, 
languages,  and  drawings.  To-day  I  called  upon  a  gentleman  who 
has  lately  returned  from  Java,  to  learn  about  the  country.     This 

afternoon  to  G 's  to  dine,  and  met  a  Captain  H 

of  the  Bengal  Presidenc}^,  who  gave  me  four  or  five  letters  to 

his  family  and  friends.     Took  a  drive  with  G ,  and  spent 

part  of  the  evening  at  his  house.  He  gave  me  two  very  pretty 
Malacca  canes,  and  a  fine  Java  pumelo — very  like  those  at  Bora- 

18 


274  FROM   WALL  STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

bay.  They  arc  a  large  round  fruit,  about  six  incbes  in  diameter, 
with  peel  and  appearance  like  a  huge  orange — the  meat  of  a 
pinkish  tinge,  in  segments  like  an  orange,  and  flavor  of  a  deli- 
cious acid,  most  refreshing  in  a  warm  climate. 

August  lOlh. —  Our  usual  daylight  walk.  To-day  I  ordered  a 
Chinaman  to  paint  me  every  kind  of  fruit  that  grows  at  any 
place  in  the  "  Straits."  G told  me  that  about  one  hun- 
dred miles  inland  there  is  a  race  of  people  who  are  supposed  to 
be  the  aborigines  of  the  country.  They  are  dwarfs  in  size, 
always  go  nude.  They  build  nests  in  the  branches  of  trees  where 
ithey  live,  and  are  very  timid  and  shy  ;  but  the  missionaries  have 
several  times  managed  to  see  them.     I  have  decided  to  go  with 

G to  Java,  as  he  thinks  he  wnll  be  able  to  travel  with  me, 

which  will  greatly  add  to  my  pleasure. 

August  11th. — Finished  my  daylight  walk  just  in  time  to  avoid 
the  rain.  When  it  rains  here,  it  is  no  half-way  affair,  but  a 
miniature  deluge,  and  comes  down  in  torrents.  This  afternoon,  for 
variety,  I  strolled  into  a  criminal  court-room  in  session.  They 
were  trying  a  Portuguese  for  stealing  twenty -four  pounds  of  gold, 
$6,000.  By  his  side  stood  another  criminal  waiting  for  his  turn 
— he  was  up  for  stealing  a  chicken.  Here  they  have  a  custom 
■of  making  the  prisoner  stand  during  the  trial,  which  is  giving 
■him  part  of  the  punishment  beforehand. 

My  new  acquaintance  T amuses  me  much.     He  was 

obliged  to  come  off  suddenly  for  a  year  on  business,  and  leave 
Tiis  pretty  wife  and  little  child.  He  gets  awfully  low-spirited 
about  it,  while  I,  who  am  a  jolly  bachelor,  have  no  cares  or 
troubles  but  those  incident  to  my  wanderings.  Among  our 
standing  amusements,  are  a  young  Prussian  and  a  Scotchman, 
between  whom  there  is  a  probability  of  the  battle  of  Waterloo 
Toeing  eventually  settled,  as  it  forms  the  usual  topic  for  every 
meal,  each  claiming  the  credit  for  his  own  nation — of  course. 

August  12th. — To-day  I  saw  the  table  of  weather  during  June, 


t  life. 


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^'^•^..Mfc  'ill 


ST.iRVATION  DIET.  275 

"which  is  r,early  a  correct  sample  of  the  year,  the  weather  varies  so 
little.  At  6  A.M.  the  thermometer  ranged  from  81°  to  82° — three 
times  stood  at  79= ;  at  12  M.  from  81°  to  85° ;  at  3  p.m.  81°  to 
86",  generally  at  83°.  Thirteen  days  fair,  the  rest  wet,  with  rain 
squalls.     This  month  about  the  same. 

This  evening  to  Madame  G 's  to  dinner.     The  guests 

formed  a  striking  contrast  to  the  hostess.  She  is  young,  plea- 
sant, and  pretty — they  "  in  the  forties,"  ugly  and  affected.     The 

men  as  equally  below  Mr.  G in  social  requisites.     I  quite 

forgot  the  custom  of  taking  a  servant  to  wait  upon  me  at  table, 
I  was  so  in  the  habit  in  India  of  having  my  servant  go  without 
my  order,  as  he  always  knew  when  and  where  I  was  to  dine. 
But  luckily  I  saw  among  the  guests  the  manager  of  the  Oriental 
Bank  here,  so  I  took  a  seat  by  him,  and  begged  the  occasional 
loan  of  his  servant,  or  I  should  have  had  a  bad  chance  for  my 

dinner.     As  I  am  not  expecting  to  stay  here  long,  T lets 

me  "  sponge"  on  his  servant,  which,  from  the  meagre  allowance 
at  table,  consists  in  our  being  at  the  table  the  moment  the  bell 
rings,  and  while  we  seize  the  dishes  within  our  reach,  the  ser- 
vant brings  the  two  or  three  others  we  want,  and  holds  them 
until  we  have  got  on  our  plates  all  we  wish  for  the  meal.  It's  a 
starvation  diet  we  are  on  here,  and  the  best  man  is  he  who  gets 
hold  of  the  best  dishes  first. 

August  ISth. — This  afternoon  a  drive,  and  to  hear  the  band. 
A  day  or  two  ago,  I  saw  a  new  "  dodge"  for  a  card.  It  belonged 
to  a  Dutch  exquisite  from  Batavia — no  name,  but  the  face  (head 
and  part  of  the  shoulders).  The  only  amusement  during  the  day, 
besides  my  books  is  studying  routes  and  lang-uages,  sketch- 
ing, and  watching  the  various  ships  in  the  harbor  as  they  come 
and  go ;  or  the  little  gharries,  drawn  by  a  pony  and  guided  by  a 
small  native  at  his  side,  usually  both  at  full  speed.  The  pine- 
apples in  this  place  are  celebrated  for  their  sweetness,  and  being 
so  free  from  aciditj*,  no  one  ever  uses  sugar  with  them.  Among 
the  fruits  that  particularly  please  the  native  taste,  is  the  dorian, 


276  FEOM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

wliicli  is  especially  odoriferous  —  a  compound  of  antiquated 
eggs  and  onions.  I  frequently  smell  it  when  my  China  boy  is 
taking  his  lunch  outside  of  my  door. 

August  lA.tli. — Last  night  the  Calcutta  steamer  arrived.  During 
the  voyage  she  experienced  a  typhoon.  Coming  in  from  my 
walk  this  morning,  I  saw  the  signals  for  the  Bombay  and  China 
steamers,  making  three  mails  to  be  examined  and  five  to  be  got 
ready  in  twenty -four  hours,  viz.  for  England,  Calcutta,  Austra- 
lia, China,  and  Java — a  most  unusual  thing.     After  church,  Mr. 

S ,  the  manager  of  the  Oriental  Bank,  called,  and  took 

me  out  to  dine  with  him,  and  then  home  again,  as  he  said  he 
had  been  paying  out  money  all  the  morning,  and  should  be 
doing  so  until  mid-day  to-morrow.  The  strangers  are  keeping 
the  place  lively,  and  gharry  boys  are  making  money.  Gharries 
and  passengers  are  flying  about  in  all  directions. 

August  15th. — This  morning  I  called  on  Mrs.  G ,  to  bid 

good-bye;  while  there,  the  chief-justice  came  in — Sir  Somebody. 
At  the  reading-room  I  saw  some  late  papers  from  the  United 
States  —  quite  a  luxury,  I  assure  you.  "While  lunching,  in 
walked  a  man  with  most  dolorous  face,  and  informed  us  he  had 
been  left  by  the  China  steamer — poor  fellow ! — a  fortnight  here 
is  worse  than  state  prison  life,  it's  so  stupid. 

August  16iJi. — T accompanied  me  on  board  to  see  me 

safely  off.  Luckily  I  found  there  were  very  few  passengers. 
The  steamer  is  horribly  dirty,  and  the  fare  worse,  if  i^ossible — 
the  day  dull,  cloudy,  and  wet.  In  pleasant  weather  the  sail  is 
beautiful.  This  afternoon  stopped  at  Ehio,  and  took  in  a  post- 
captain  and  two  army  oflEicers.  Half-a-dozen  friends  of  the 
latter  tried  to  got  up  a  hip,  hip,  hurrah !  on  leaving,  but  they 
had  either  libated  too  freely  of  beer,  or  not  enough,  for  they 
"  couldn't  come  it."  There  was  a  brig  of  war  lying  at  anchor 
there,  and  quite  a  large  fortress,  with  an  esplanade,  on  the  hill. 


BANCA  AND  BATAVIA.  277 

The  product  of  the  place  is  spice.     This  is  a  transportation  set- 
tlement from  Java. 

August  17th,  Banca. — At  midnight  came  to  anchor,  this 
being  the  coaling  station.  The  weather  and  sea  have  both  been 
very  rough  to-da3^  Last  night  we  crossed  the  equator.  As  it 
was  raining  I  did  not  get  up  to  see  it,  so  I  cannot  inform  you 
how  it  looks.  The  current  runs  six  miles  an  hour,  so  we  coal 
slowly.  There  is  a  fortress  here,  and  the  tin  mines  which  pay 
to  the  government  an  annual  revenue  of  $1,005,000  ;  they  are 
very  celebrated,  and  alone  produce  2,000  tons,  or  one-half  of  all 
the  Malay  tin,  which  is  very  remarkable  for  its  purity.  Batavia 
is  the  principal  place  of  export  for  it.  These  islands,  and  the 
Peninsula  of  Malacca  produce  about  4,000  tons  annually,  with 
their  imperfect  smelting  by  Chinese  and  Malays,  while  the  tin 
mines  of  Cornwall  and  Devon,  under  the  most  favorable  circum- 
stances, only  produce  5,000  tons ! 

August  18th,  Straits  of  Banca. — At  eight  this  morning  we 
were  off.  The  Straits  are  like  a  magnificent  river,  with  densely 
wooded  shores.  The  navigation  is  very  bad  from  the  shoals ; 
one  part  reminded  me  much  of  the  "  South  Bay,"  my  own  boat- 
ing place.     This  afternoon  in  the  Java  Sea,  and  rather  rough. 

August  19th,  Batavia  Eoadstead. — Steamed  in  here  at  near 
midnight,  so  remained  on  board  until  morning.  We  passed  a 
Dutch  war  cutter  this  afternoon,  and  shortly  after  a  dangerous 
sand  bank  of  about  an  acre  in  surface,  just  visible  above  the 
water.  The  sea  is  generally  very  shoal,  and  we  were  passing 
flats  all  day.  The  harbor,  to  Hibernicise,  is  an  open  roadstead, 
and  entirely  unprotected.  Fortunately  they  have  no  storms  of 
any  consequence,  and  so  vessels  can  lie  at  anchor  in  safety  at 
all  seasons. 

August  20ih,  Batavia. — At  seven  this  morning  we  landed, 
after  half  a  mile  of  rowing  reached  the  entrance  of  the  canal, 


278  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

which  extends  out  for  a  long  distance.  The  canal  is  rather 
narrow,  with  great  numbers  of  sharks  and  crocodiles.  Here  the 
freight  boats  arc  towed  in  and  sail  out.  I  saw  quite  a  number ; 
they  are  all  well  built  for  sailing,  many  with  hollow  lines.  The 
distance  on  the  canal  was  perhaps  a  mile  and  a  half.  Here  we 
and  our  "  traps  "  were  disembarked,  and  underwent  a  ceremonial 
examination  by  the  custom-house  officers,  which  greatly  amazed 

G s  unsophisticated  servant,  who  gravely  asked  me,  "Why 

they  do  so  fashion  this  country  ?"  Then  we  were  off  in  most 
primitive  chaises  for  the  hotel,  Anthony  and  our  luggage  in 
one,  and  our  noble  selves  in  the  other — our  steeds  were  "Button" 
in  miniature,  and  about  as  willing  to  go. 

Passing  through  the  business  part  of  the  town,  had  a  drive  of 
a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  "  Hotel  Netherlander,"  en  route  we 
passed  the  Governor's,  and  many  other  nice-looking  houses- 
The  roads  are  good  and  well  sprinkled,  and  the  place  more  com- 
fortable looking  than  anything  I've  seen  for  many  a  long 
day,  reminding  me  more  of  a  New  England  village,  than  any- 
thing I  can  think  of.  Here  I  found  nice  rooms,  bath,  and  break- 
fast, most  delightful  privileges,  which  we  fully  appreciated  after 
our  four  days  of  discomfort,  in  fact  of  my  continued  discomfort 

since  leaving  Mr.  F 's  house  at  Macao.     We  then  sallied 

out  to  find  Mr.  E ,  the  head  American  merchant  here 

(my  steamer  acquaintance  from  Point  de  Galle).  He  at  once 
entered  into  our  plans,  and  tried  to  persuade  one  of  his  partners 
to  join  us,  and  introduced  us  to  both  of  them.  He  then  sent  out 
for  the  government  j^ermit^  without  ivhich  we  cannot  travel  here. 

This  afternoon  we  took  a  drive  through  the  place,  which  is 
very  prettily  laid  out.  Many  of  the  grounds  of  the  houses 
resembling  small  parks.  The  houses  are  of  one  or  two  stories, 
generally  of  wood,  with  every  appearance  of  comfort,  and 
almost  painfully  neat.  Then  home,  and  this  evening  a  walk, 
and  the  luxury  of  ice  cream. 

August  21. — Th.is  morning  I  took  an  early  walk,  while  G —  — 


A  JAVA  CURRIE.  279 

went  to  "mass"  (being  a  Catholic).  In  passing  a  large  plain 
called  the  Waterloo,  I  saw  a  stone  column,  surmounted  by  a 
lion ;  at  its  base  a  Latin  inscription,  the  amount  of  which  was — 
a  grateful  memorial  of  the  glorious  peace,  effected  on  the  bloody 
field  of  Waterloo,  by  the  vigor  and  energy  of  the  Dutch  arms ! 
Soon  after,  a  most  peculiar  tandem  "turn-out,"  with  two  young 
Dutch  "bloods."  Button  would  have  been  a  cart-horse  to  either 
of  these  steeds. 

Then  home,  and  with  G to  E 's  to  breakfast. 

He  has  a  beautiful  new  house,  which  he  has  just  moved  into, 

and  not  yet  quite  furnished,     Mrs.  E not  as  well  as  when 

I  saw  her  on  board  the  steamer,  she  had  then  just  returned  from 
a  trip  to  Europe  and  the  United  States  for  her  health.  She  is  a 
daughter  of  one  of  the  late  governors  of  the  island.  We  had 
a  capital  breakfast,  with  lots  of  little  darkies,  whose  grinning 
faces,  as  they  gave  us  the  benefit  of  their  huge  fans,  looked 

most  familiar.     E talked  over  our  tri^D,  and  arranged  all 

the  plans.     We  then  returned  home,  and  to-morrow  shall  start 

for  a  visit  of  a  few  days  to  see  an  American  friend  of  G -. — , 

who  lives  about  sixty  or  seventy  miles  in  the  countrj^,  on  a 
plantation  he  owns.  On  our  return,  we  shall  go  ofP  on  our 
longer  tour. 

Our  breakfast  at  E 's  was  literallj  a  dejeimej^  a  lafourclieile; 

there  were  only  one  or  two  of  E 's  or  Mrs.  E 's 

family,  besides  ourselves,  and  as  we  had  told  him  we  had  heard 
he  was  celebrated  for  his  fine  curries  (for  every  place  has  its 
currie:  in  India,  one  for  each  presidency,  one  for  Ceylon,  one 
for  Java,  and  another  in  China),  so  he  determined  to  equal  it, 
and  gave  orders  accordingly.  A  Java  currie  is  the  rice  and 
currie  in  separate  dishes  as  usual,  then  a  tableful  of  other 
concomitants,  chickens  prepared  in  various  ways,  omelettes, 
fricandeaux,  with  four  or  five  other  dishes,  the  contents  I  forget 
now,  and  all  prepared  Avith  the  greatest  skill,  for  he  keeps  one 
servant  whose  sole  business  it  is  to  prepare  one  half  of  the 
currie.     After  we  had  got  a  little  of  each  of  these  dishes,  a 


280  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

servant  brought  on  a  waiter  a  large  china  dish  with  a  dozen 
different  divisions,  each  with  a  different  preparation  of  spices, 
vegetables,  chillies,  and  chutnejs  (a  pungent  preparation  like 
Worcester  sauce,  catsup,  and  such  like),  from  each  of  which  you 
take  a  small  portion,  and  the  whole  well  stirred  up  or  "shook 
before  taken,"  as  the  cook-books  and  doctors'  prescriptions  say, 
after  which  the  currie  is  complete,  and  the  perfection  and 
desideratum  of  such  a  currie  is — each  mouthful  must  have  a 
different  flavor.  Doctors  and  chemists  may  talk  about  the 
deleterious  effects  of  compounds,  but  I  would  not  give  much 
for  their  resolution,  if  a  Java  currie  was  "  on  hand,"  after  they 
had  had  one  good  taste  of  one.  I  don't  know  of  any  more 
tempting  dish  for  a  hon  vivant. 

This  evening  we  drove  out  to  hear  the  band — and  such  a  lot 
of  Dutch  exquisites,  with  "  white  ties"  and  queer-looking  clothes, 
displaying  their  horsemanship  on  skeleton  ponies,  and  lofty- 
stepping  officers  in  white  plumes,  much  admired  hy  ihenvselves 
and  the  natives !     This  evening,  packing  up  a  bag  to  go  to  Mr. 

D 's,  who,  until  he  retired  lately,  was  the  head  of  E 's 

firm. 

Aug.  22d,  "Wanasapee. — We  were  off  by  daylight  this  morn- 
ing ;  a  wild  drive  with  only  one  incident,  which  occurred  just  as 
we  left  the  suburbs.  One  of  the  leaders  tried  to  take  a  short 
cut  to  a  house  he  had  been  in  the  habit  of  stopping  at,  and 
tumbled  into  a  deep  ditch,  dragging  the  other  leader  and  one 
wheeler  in  with  him.  Thev  were  all  soon  extricated,  and  then 
we  galloped  on  at  full  speed,  once  narrowly  escaping  an  upset  in 

the  river  from  a  "  sh}-,"  and  reached  Mr.  D 's  at  twelve. 

As  we  were  crossing  a  small  river  in  front  of  his  house,  he  saw 
us,  and  came  running  down  the  bank  to  meet  us,  with  a  hand  and 
hearty  welcome  to  each. 

On  reaching  the  house  he  presented  us  to  his  wife,  a  recent 
acquisition  he  had  brought  from  America,  (he  went  to  the  United 
States  two  years  ago  with  Gr ,   when  Cupid  pierced  his 


LARGE   ESTATES.  281 

baclielor  heart),  she  is  a  very  pretty,  nice  person,  and  I  soon  found 
we  had  many  mutual  acquaintances.  He  is  much  interested  in 
his  sugar  plantation  and  mill.  The  latter  he  had  us  out  to  see 
as  soon  as  breakfast  was  over.  He  has  a  fine  American  engine, 
and  this  year  will  probably  make  over  five  hundred  tons  of  sugar, 
a  very  large  amount  when  it  is  considered  the  place  was  a  dense 
teak  jungle  only  seven  years  ago.     In  the  sugar  mill  we  were 

introduced  to  a  Mr.  S ,  a  relative  of  the  M 's  at 

Morrisania,  who  came  out  to  assist  in  the  management  of  an 
estate  his  uncle,  or  rather  his  aunt,  the  widow  has,  consisting  of 
several  thousand  square  miles,  and  with  over  30,000  people 
on  it.  Tlicre  is  one  man  on  the  island,  a  half  caste  (white  father 
and  native  mother)  from  Bengal,  who  owns  thousands  of  square 

miles,  and  has  74,000  people  on  the  estate !    Mr.  D has 

1,700  acres,  500  cleared  and  cultivated,  with  500  hands,  and 
about  2,500  people  altogether. 

This  afternoon  we  rode  around  the  sugar  fields,  when  G 

drew  Mr.  D out  on  some  of  his  tiger-shooting  exploits  j 

for  though  he  is  fifty-five,  he  is  very  active,  and  a  keen  sports- 
man, as  you  may  suppose.  When  only  a  few  days  ago  while  in  a 
sick  bed,  a  report  was  brought  of  a  tiger  in  a  tree  near  his  cat- 
tle pens,  he  sprang  out  of  bed,  barely  waiting  to  dress,  and 
rushing  oflT  with  his  rifle,  left  the  rest  to  follow  with  torches  (for 
it  was  evening)  as.  they  could.     He  wounded  the  tiger,  who  made 

for  the  river,  followed  by  D and  the  dogs,  D followed 

him  into  the  river  in  water  up  to  his  neck,  trying  to  spear  him, 
when  a  servant  brought  another  rifle,  with  which  he  shot  him. 

He  is  a  famous  shot.  By  way  of  showing  a  Dutch  gentleman 
who  was  boasting  of  his  prowess,  the  way  the  Americans  did  the 
thing,  as  they  were  returning  from  an  unsuccessful  tiger  hunt, 
happening  to  sec  a  monkey  on  a  tree  at  a  long  distance,  he  drew 
up  and  knocked  him  over.  Measuring  the  distance  found  it  was 
400  yards !    Not  bad  for  a  man  of  fifty-five. 

This  evening  Mrs.  D has  been  posting  me  up  on  home 

news  and  gossip,  sundry  marriages,  half-a-dozen  deaths,  and  one 


282  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

separation ;  and  tliat  a  newyacTit,  the  Sylvie,  is  to  come  out  and  test 
lier  sailing  qualities  with  the  English  yacht  squadron,  since  they 
have  had  the  America  yacht  for  a  model.    So  success  to  the  Sylvie. 

Aug.  2M. — At  daylight  I  took  a  walk  by  the  river.  The 
scenery  is  as  wild  as  it  is  possible  to  conceive  without  barren 
rocks  and  mountains.     I  saw  several  flat-boats  being  towed  up 

the  stream.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  D had  this  morning  a  visit 

from  a  native  regent  and  his  wife.  They  were  most  peculiar 
looking  and  dressed  people.  She  wore  her  hair  long,  brushed 
back  from  her  forehead,  and  tied  in  a  knot  behind,  with  a  purple 
gown  and  light  scarf  thrown  over  one  shoulder  and  resting 
loosely  under  the  other  arm,  where  it  was  tied.  He  wore  a  ban- 
dana handkerchief  turban,  his  hair  as  usual,  long  and  tied  in  a 
knot  behind.  He  had  a  green  satin  jacket,  a  shirt  the  collar  a 
la  Byron,  and  fastened  with  diamond  buttons,  white  trowsers ; 
and  over  this  a  sarone  (a  certain  kind  of  figured  cotton  fabric 
that  in  width  reaches  from  the  waist  to  the  ancles,  and  about  six 
feet  long,  joined  at  the  ends,  the  surplus  length  being  made  into 
a  fold,  and  the  whole  being  kept  at  the  waist  by  rolling  over  the 
upper  part)  all  completed  by  a  kreis  with  a  rich  gold  scabbard. 

This  is  the  weapon  of  the  "  Straits,"  and  they  vary  in  every 
possible  way  as  to  size  and  shape.  I  know  of  no  weapon  made 
in  so  many  different  styJes.  Every  native  wears  this  weapon,  and 
will  limit  himself  to  one  article  of  dress — almost  to  the  Bombay 
Coolie's  winter  costume — to  purchase  one.  Even  children  ten  and 
twelve  years  of  age,  wear  them.  Around  the  crown  of  my 
"  wide  awake  "  (felt  hat)  I  wear  a  very  light  roll  of  thin  lawn,  to 
protect  my  temples,  and  head  from  the  sun — an  Indian  fashion. 

S told  me  this  morning  that  some  of  their  Mussulmen 

work-people  had  inquired  with  great  interest  if  I  was  a  Hadji,  and 
had  been  to  Mecca.  As  the  white  turban  among  them,  is  an  indi- 
cation of  that  pilgrimage  having  been  made  by  the  wearer.  I 
suppose  the  color  being  ironical  on  their  increased  purity,  for 
Hadji  in  the  East  is  almost  a  synonymous  term  with  rascal. 


THE   GIBSON  AFFAIR.  283 

This  afternoon  S and  I  have  been  riding  over  the  estate, 

he  giving  me  an  account  of  his  tour  to  the  Rocky  Mountains 
with  Audubon.     This  evening  we  talked  of  home  where  we  have 

numbers  of  mutual  friends  and  acquaintances.    Mr.  D says 

that  Gibson,  whose  affair  and  escape  has  created  considerable 
excitement  here  and  in  the  United  States,  was  perfectly  innocent, 
the  whole  difficulty  arising  from  the  malice  of  a  half  caste,  who 
was  high  in  oflice,  and  of  course  had  power,  and  through  his  friends 

the  ear  of  the  Governor.      G happening  to  be  dining  at 

some  public  or  official  dinner,  and  seeing  this  half  caste  at  table, 
supposed  from  his  very  dark  color  he  was  a  native,  said  to  his 
neighbor,  soito  voce,  what  is  that  nigger  (the  common  term  for 
native  in  the  east)  doing  at  the  table  with  all  these  officials  ? 
The  fellow  heard  it  himself,  or  through  some  one  else,  and  made 
all  the  subsequent  difficulties,  to  be  revenged  on  Gibson  for  the 
remark.  They  say  here,  that  the  Government  wishing  to  get  rid 
of  him,  arranged  matters  so  that  he  could  escape,  and  they  to 
save  themselves  from  creating  a  national  difficulty. 

August  24,  Batavia. — "We  were  up  at  daylight,  and  after  an 
early  breakfast  and  a  good-bye  to  all,  started  back  for  tliis  place. 

Poor  S !  I  pity  him.    Induced  ten  years  ago  by  his  relatives 

to  come  out  here,  and  they  did  nothing  for  him  after  his  arrival. 

Mr.  D has  endeavored  to  assist  him  as  much  as  possible,  but 

this  contemptible,  susj)icious,  arbitrary  government  will  not  allow 
him  to  go  anywhere  in  the  interior  and  hire  an  estate,  where  he 
could  make  something,  so  he  is  obliged  comparatively  to  waste  his 
time  as  engineer  at  Mr.  D 's. 

The  tigers  are  very  numerous,  and  destructive  to  many  of  the 
neat  cattle.  The  buffaloes,  however,  when  several  are  together, 
and  sometimes  when  alone,  will  protect  themselves  against  this 
enemy,  and  where  he  has  actually  attacked  one,  they  have  been 
known  to  kill  him.  When  the  boy  who  watches  them,  sees  or 
suspects  a  tiger,  he  will  make  them  form  a  circle  around  him, 
and  protect  him ;  so  Mr,  D told  me. 


284  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

On  our  return,  we  found  Mr.  E had  almost  everytliing 

ready  for  our  departure,  including  the  pass,  and  his  own  travelling 
carriage  which  he  insisted  upon  our  taking. 

G is  deep  in  plans  for  an  ice  house  for  the  whole  town. 

The  common  women  here  wear  for  ornament !  an  ivory  ring  in 
the  lower  part  of  their  ears,  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half 
in  diameter.  They  commence  when  the  person  is  a  child  with  a 
small  one,  and  by  gradually  stretching,  they  get  them  in  of  this 
size.  They  have  also  another  addition  to  their  beauty.  When 
they  have  no  beauty,  I  suppose  they  adopt  the  reverse  of  the 
quotation  of  "  beauty  unadorned,"  they  file  a  deep  line  across 
the  front  teeth,  and  color  it  black  (which  must  necessarily  cause 
them  to  decay  quickly  I  should  think).  Instead  of  carrying  the 
hay  in  carts,  the  Coolies  have  two  X's  and  attach  one  to  either  end 
of  the  banghy,  a  bamboo  pole  of  five  or  six  feet  in  length,  to  which 
they  suspend  things  and  carry  on  their  shoulders. 

August  2oth,  Britenzorf. — I  went  to  Mr.  E 's  office  this 

morning  and  got  the  "  needful " — he  being  my  banker.  He  gave 
us  a  number  of  letters  of  introduction,  being  a  very  well  known 
and  highly  esteemed  person.  In  the  carriage  we  found  a  famous 
supply  of  choice  wines,  etc.,  from  his  cellar,  which  he  had  put 
away  for  us,  as  they  are  not  to  be  had  at  many  of  the  places  on  the 
road.  At  half-past  three  we  got  off.  I  have  a  new  acquisition, 
in  the  form  of  a  most  peculiar  looking  youngster  for  a  servant — 
the  only  one  I  could  find,  and  as  he  don't  understand  anything 
but  Malay,  and  my  stock  of  that  is  of  the  minimum  order,  I 
take  it  our  conversations  will  be  brief,  and  most  likely  to  the 
point.  There  are  post-houses  and  relays  of  horses  at  every  ten 
miles,  kept  up  by  government,  for  which  you  pay  at  the  pleasant 
cost  of  a  dollar  a  mile  each  wa}^  Thus  you  see  one  enjoys 
several  luxuries  in  Java,  for  they  will  not  allow  any  one  to  inter- 
fere or  run  opposition  to  this  post 

The  Government  is  "a  screw"  of  the  greatest  magnitude,  and 
highest  power,  and  the  result  of  every  squeeze,  great  or  small, 


Skelelied  by  the  Author.  St'e  t>a^e  2S-2. 

A   JAVANKSK  liKC.KNT. 


Sketched  by  the  Author.  See  page  2S2. 

WIFE  OF  JAVANESE  REGENT. 


d'tangoke.  285 

goes  into  its  own  coffers.  On  our  way  to  this  place  at  every  post- 
house  we  had  to  show  our  pass,  and  sign  our  names  in  a  Govern- 
ment book.  The  officers  seeing  us  in  such  a  handsome  carriage, 
supposed  we  "  were  some,"  and  they  were  proportionably  gra- 
cious. Some,  as  they  studied  over  our  names,  became  geographic 
at  mine — one  quite  so,  dechning  it  I  suppose,  for  he  said  "Ire- 
land, Hand,  same  as  Friedland,  I  know  very  well,  big  country, 
3,000,000  people,  much,  very  much  ship — ten  ship!"  whereupon 

G and  I  became  convulsive.     "VYe  reached  this  place  at 

eight,  after  various  experiences  with  baulky  leaders  and  wheelers — 
one  set  keeping  us  three  hours  on  a  seven  mile  stage.  These  post 
horses  are  a  curious  race  of  little  brutes,  not  over  twelve  or  thirteen 
hands.      The  country-seat  of  the  Governor  of  the  island  is  here. 

August  26th,  D'tangoke. — Up  by  daylight  this  morning  for 
a  walk  to  see  the  Governor's  house,  a  fine  large  residence,  the 
architecture  a  compound  of  Grieco-Hollandic  taste.  In  the 
park  a  large  herd  of  deer,  probably  two  hundred.  They  were 
much  like  the  small  park  deer  of  England.  "When  I  returned, 
my  boy  brought  me  a  most  flowery-looking  blue  calico  coat, 
with  a  request  that  I  would  purchase  it  for  him,  envious,  I  pre- 
sume, of  Anthony's  red  sash  and  overpowering  white  turban ; 
so  with  amiable  weakness  I  consented,  in  the  hopes  of  detracting 
some  from  his  ugly  "phiz,"  if  I  could  not  add  to  its  beauty; 
but  I've  since  discovered  I  was  only  giving  Master  Ganymede  a 
basis  of  vanity  to  build  upon,  and  now  he's  trying  to  finger  our 
money-bag  to  complete  his  toilet. 

The  altitude  of  this  place  is  850  feet,  and  on  each  side  of  this 
high  land  rise  two  mountains,  one,  Salah,  7,400  feet  in  height, 
and  the  other,  Gidae,  a  smoking  volcano  of  9,400  feet !  The  air 
is  delightfully  cool. 

At  eight  we  were  off,  having  been  delayed  several  hours  for 
horses.  An  attempt  at  a  second  delay  we  nipped  in  the  bud  by 
intimating,  most  unmistakably,  our  intention  of  appealing  to 
the  Eesident ;  whereupon  magic  influence  was  brought  to  bear, 


286  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

and  we  off  a^ain  in  ten  minutes.  We  had  a  delav  of  two  liours 
on  tlie  road  for  horses,  and  being  tiffin  time,  we  improved  it, 
accommodating  ourselves  in  a  Chinaman's  shop.     He  presented 

us  all  sorts  of  viands,  redolent  with  garlic,  which  G ,  with 

imprudent  curiosity,  indulged  in  ;  but  being  more  frugal  in  my 
tastes,  I  was  satisfied  with  my  humble  repast  of  tongue  and 

pate  de  foie  gras^  with  a  dash  of  R 's  choice  wine  from  the 

cellars  of  abstemious  monastic  friends  of  his  at  Manilla.  The 
horses  appeared  shortly  after,  and  we  continued  on  with  them 
until  the  next  post,  when  they  were  relieved  by  buffaloes,  to 
ascend  a  steep  lofty  hill,  4,400  feet  high.  This  range  is  called 
Magnadong.  We  walked  up,  and  found  the  views  and  scenery 
magnificent.  On  our  way  up  we  passed  a  coffee  plantation.  I 
picked  some  leaves  to  press.  Descending  the  opposite  side,  we 
reached  this  place  at  eight  in  the  evening. 

August  21tli^  SoMERDANG. — At  half-past  four  this  morning  we 
were  up,  and  at  daylight  were  ofl^.  The  morning  was  beautiful 
and  the  country  was  charming.  We  crossed  tlie  Chetarum  river 
by  a  fine  bridge  of  wood  thrown  across,  like  the  wooden  railway 
network  bridges  of  transverse  beams  so  common  in  the  United 
States.  We  then  crossed  the  Tjuskal  by  a  boat.  The  Ooron- 
garong  mountains,  and  Gidae's  smoking  peak,  formed  a  magni- 
ficent background  to  our  superb  views. 

We  reached  Bandong  at  twelve,  and  lunched  under  the  auspices 
of  a  famous  old  landlady,  of  goodly  proportions,  and  admirable 
cuisine  displayed  in  the  form  of  a  capital  Java  currie.  We 
afterwards  galloped  onward,  passing  through  scenery  reminding 
me  strongly  of  some  I  saw  back  of  Smyrna  last  autumn  while 
visiting  the  "  Seven  Churches."  We  skirted  for  more  than  a 
mile  the  brow  of  a  lofty  hill  with  a  beautiful  valley  beneath,  so 
narrow  and  deep  as  almost  to  resemble  a  mountain  gorge.  Among 
the  foliage  of  the  primeval  forest  trees  I  often  distinguished  the 
jagged  leaves  of  the  bread-fruit  and  the  broad  circular  ones  of 
the  teak. 


THE   RESIDENTS.  287 

August  28ih^  Cherebox. — We  have  passed  several  teak  jungles 
to-claj,  and  crossed  a  river  at  Konig-Sambang.  We  descended 
to  the  plain  and  Cherebon,  on  the  sea-shore  at  two.  At  five  we 
dressed  up,  and  driving  to  the  Resident's,  presented  our  cards 

and  Mr.  R 's  letter.     The  Residents  are  great  "  swells," 

with  almost  unlimited  powder  in  their  districts,  and  with  their 
guards,  fine  houses,  and  salary  they  live  quite  e7i  j^^'ince.  This 
Resident,  Mr.  Ament  (I  beg  pardon  for  omitting  his  dozen  titles), 
we  found  to  be  a  very  pleasant,  gentlemanly  person.  He  advised 
us  not  to  ascend  the  Tjermai,  as  at  this  uncertain  season,  after 
all  our  trouble  and  four  days  of  labor,  we  could  not  be  able  to 
see  anything  but  the  clouds,  and  suggested  instead  a  fine  excur- 
sion around  its  base  to  Konigen,  Talaga,  Madja,  Madja-Linka, 
and  so  on  back  to  Somerdang,  and  would  furnish  us  with  horses 
through  the  Regent  (native  prince)  of  this  place,  and  also  write 
to  the  Regent  of  Koningen  and  to  other  gentlemen,  w'ho  would 
forward  us  from  place  to  place.  He  invited  us  to  spend  the 
evening  wdth  him,  but  we  were  too  much  fatigued,  and  so 
declined,  knowing  we  should  lose  nothing.  From  thence  to  the 
Poste,  where  we  disturbed  a  fat  Dutchman  at  his  dinner,  doubt- 
less much  to  his  annoyance. 

Then  to  the  Regent's,  his  head  officer  (I  can't  pretend  to  give 
all  his  high-sounding  titles),  a  species  of  prime  minister  received 
us — mounted  his  spectacles  and  tried  to  read  our  cards,  but 
unsuccessfully,  so  blew  his  nose  with  a  primitive  mouchoir,  les 
doigts^  then  asked  us  what  those  things  (our  cards)  were.  On 
our  enlightening  him,  he  smiled  most  graciously,  and  trying  to 
look  amiable,  his  extended  grin,  very  receding  nose,  and  pro- 
minent chin,  seemed  in  this  case  to  justify  the  assertion  of  the 
Vestiges  of  Creation,  that  the  human  species  are  descended  from 
monkej's,  and  the  specimen  before  us  certainly  in  an  incipient 
stage,  if  we  are  all  in  the  same  family. 

The  Javanese,  if  they  all  resemble  those  I  have  seen,  will 
never  receive  the  prize  for  beauty.  After  a  few  minutes,  during 
which  we  had  time  to  gaze  around  the  fine  large  hall,  the  walls 


288  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

of  wbicli  were  hung  witli  spears  and  state  parasols,  and  a 
wooden  elephant  for  door  screen !  and  French  engravings  orna- 
menting the  inner  walls — a  mixture  of  barbarism  and  civiliza- 
tion, TVe  saw  an  old  man,  full  of  energy  and  nervousness, 
bustle  across  the  room  towards  us,  tugging  away  at  his  shirt 
collars,  and  trying  to  button  his  wristbands,  at  his  back  was  a 
dwarf,  bearing  some  insignia  of  state,  followed  by  others,  with 
staffs,  canes,  etc.,  etc.  We  at  once  recognised  him  as  the  Eegent; 
he  shook  hands  with  both  of  us,  and  G did  the  conver- 
sational in  Malay,  as  my  meagre  quantum  barely  sufficed  for 
travelling,  much  less  for  courtly  conversation,  so  I  took  observa- 
tions. The  Eegent  wore  the  ordinary  bandana,  or  such  like 
cotton-handkerchief  turban,  blue  coat  and  gilt  buttons,  with  the 
sarone  (which  I've  before  described).  His  sliirt  buttons  and 
studs  of  very  brilliant  diamonds,  around  his  neck  a  very  massive 
gold  chain,  and  attached  to  his  watch  a  formidable  bunch  of 
seals  and  chatelaine.  He  was  very  cidl,  and  said  he  would 
write  to  his  son-in-law,  the  Eegent  of  Koningen,  to  send  us 
horses,  etc.     We  then  returned  home. 

The  natives  are  kept  in  famous  order,  and  as  civil  as  possible. 
They  are  never  allowed  to  pass  a  w^hite  person  without  removing 
their  hats,  and  if  on  horseback  to  dismount.  The  Dutch  grind 
them  to  the  very  ground.  The  houses  of  the  natives  are  built 
of  split  cane,  interwoven  like  a  basket ;  their  costume  generally 
only  a  long  cloth,  or  the  sarong.  This  place  at  present  is  quite 
unhealthy  from  fever. 

August  29iJi,  Koningen. — At  seven  w^e  were  en  route  again; 
the  scenery  very  grand,  and  the  Tjermai  towering  above  hills 
and  mountains,  until  lost  in  the  clouds.  At  twelve  we  reached 
the  Eegent's.  He  met  us  on  the  piazza,  and  seems  a  very 
intelligent,  well  informed  person  for  a  native.  He  was  dressed 
in  the  same  style  as  his  father-in-law,  which  seems  the  usual 
costume  for  the  better  class  of  natives  in  the  island.  We  retired 
to  our  rooms,  and  making  a  toilet,  met  again  at  breakfast,  where, 


Sketclied  liy  the  Author  gee  pa^e  252. 

CHINA    r.OAT- WOMAN,   CAXTdN. 


MUSIC  AND  DANCING.  289 

to  our  great  surprise,  we  saw  his  wife — a  most  unusual  thing  in 
these  climes  for  the  higher  class  of  women  ever  to  be  seen  by 
men.  She  is  a  funny-looking,  timid,  startled  little  body.  We 
were  presented  to  her.  The  fussy  Dutch  doctor  who  resides 
here,  says  she  is  well  informed,  reads,  writes,  and  even  corre- 
sponds with  the  families  of  some  of  the  Kesidents,  besides  being 
quite  "a  shot."  The  doctor  would  imply  that  she  is  quite  an 
angel.  The  Eegent  is  quite  civilized,  and  only  has  this  one 
wife.  He  lives  in  European  style,  and  keeps  a  capital  cook,  as 
G and  I  will  both  testify. 

After  breakfast,  all  are  supposed  to  retire  for  a  nap  until 
about  six,  then  bathe  and  dress  for  dinner,  which  is  at  ten  !  An 
exception  was  made  to  these  rules  for  our  benefit,  and  we  were 
shown  a  young  rhinoceros  they  had  caught  a  few  days  before. 
Then  they  got  uj)  the  band  for  our  amusement.  Tliis  consisted 
of  about  twenty  performers  on  a  variety  of  odd  instruments, 
mostly  of  brass,  iron,  or  wood,  on  the  principle  of  the  flat 
musical  glasses  struck  with  a  bit  of  cork,  except  a  few  that  were 
shaped  like  an  inverted  bowl. 

The  musicians  seemed  to  make  themselves  quite  comfortable, 
and  smoked  or  not,  as  they  fancied.  All  squatting  before  their 
instruments ;  even  the  servants  squatted.  None  but  the  guards 
are  obliged  to  stand  before  the  Eegent.  After,  or  rather  accom- 
panying the  music,  was  a  female  singer,  who  with  another 
woman  danced  for  us.  Shortly  after,  a  nephew  of  a  neigh- 
boring Eegent,  and  cousin  of  this  one,  joined  the  dancers.  On 
great  occasions,  as  the  visit  of  his  father-in-law,  or  such  like,  the 
Eegent  and  his  wife  will  dance.  The  dancins;  is  neither  ofrace- 
ful  nor  pleasing  to  us,  consisting  merely  of  contortions  of  the 
body,  with  some  gentle  motion  of  the  feet,  which  arc  kept  con- 
stantly moving.  Occasionally  the  dance  is  varied  by  a  sudden 
start,  and  you  really  fancy  they  are  about  to  commence  some 
lively  jig,  and  equally  suddenly  they  discontinue  the  dancing 
and  chin,  chin  ("  make  their  manners,"  as  country  people  say), 
the  Eegent.     Then  came  dinner,  and  shortly  after,  we  retired  to 

19 


290  FROM   "WALL   STREET  TO    CASHMERE. 

bed,  a  very  pleasant  arrangement  for  indigestion,  niglit-mare,  and 
sucli-lLke  agreeabilities. 

As  the  last  Eegent,  tlirough.  his  prime  minister,  made  tis  pay 
for  the  horses  we  used,  and  this  one  had  no  such  dignitary  about 
him  as  we  could  discover,  we  very  coolly  went  into  the  business 
matter  with  him.  On  rising  from  table  we  asked  about  the  pay 
for  the  horses  ;  he  entered  into  it  as  if  it  was  a  matter  he  was 
quite  accustomed  to.  Though  it  seemed  rather  an  odd  proceed- 
ing when  we  were  staying  at  a  great  dignitary's  house,  for  him  to 
charge  for  his  horses  as  if  he  kept  a  livery  stable. 

G 's  servant  amused  us  very  much.     G ^heard  the 

"opas"  (the  last  Eesident's  servant,  who  accompanied  us)  giving 
Anthony  instructions  as  to  what  his  master  must  do,  and  when 
the  "  opas  "  came  to  the  words  "  pay  the  Eegent,"  Anthony's 
eyes  expanded,  and  with  most  amusing  astonishment  exclaimed 
"pay  the  Eegent — whew!"  not  understanding  such  kind  of 
quality  people  who  condescended  to  take  pay  for  such  things. 
After  we  had  privately  paid  the  dancers,  the  musicians  sent  in  a 
request  for  a  present — there  being  about  twenty  in  number. 

G .  our  cashier,  demurred  in  his  mind  about  the  propriety 

and  agreeability  of  paying  such  a  host,  when  Anthony  in  the 
full  consciousness  of  the  dignity  of  his  master,  pompously  said, 
"Massa,  never  do  let  our  name  stink  here."    "True,"  replied 

G ,  handing  over  the  "  needful."     The  fellow  amuses  both 

G and  me  very  much  by  his  various  expressions  and  sur- 
prises at  the  novelty  of  everything. 

On  looking  over  our  post-horse  receipts,  I  find  that  they,  from 
ignorance  of  our  supposed  titles,  and  expecting,  of  course,  like 
the  Dutch,  we  must  necessarily  have  them,  they  have  dubbed 
us  "bania  kaia"  (very  rich). 

August  SOlh. — Madja. — The  Eegent  took  early  breakfast  with 
us  this  morning;  after  which  we  started  off,  and  for  half  the 
distance  to  Talaga  had  a  delightful  drive.  At  that  place  we 
stopped  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Hardy,  a  very  nice  person.     He 


HAUNTED   HOUSE.  291 

provided  us  with  saddlc-liorses,  and  sent  the  carriage  on, 
drawn  by  Coolies,  as  the  road  was  bad,  and  too  narrow  to  drive 
safely  with  such  shying,  baulking  brutes  of  horses  as  they  have 
here. 

On  the  way  here,  passed  much  magnificent  scenery.  We 
stopped  to  see  a  coffee-mill.  The  manager  took  us  through  it, 
and  manifested  much  surprise  on  hearing  we  were  Americans, 
having  never  seen  any  before ;  and,  I  suppose,  like  the  rest  of 
the  world,  thought  we  must  necessarily  be  black,  or  "coffee- 
colored." 

From  the  mill,  continued  on  without  stopping,  to  this  place, 
where  we  are  in  capital  quarters.  A  most  gentlemanly,  agree- 
able man  and  host,  the  comptroller  of  the  district,  a  Mr.  Maeder, 
and  quite  a  young  man  to  occupy  that  post.  This  afternoon,  as 
he  was  showing  us  about  his  stables,  filled  with  Arabs,  and  other 
fine  horses,  he  amused  us  as  he  saw  us  looking  at  his  stirrups. 
"I  like  heavy  stirrups — it  is  so  easy  to  find  them  when  you  get 
your  foot  out !"  I  thought  so  too,  when  I  saw  and  felt  their 
enormous  weight. 

This  evening  Mr.  M has  been  giving  us  a  curious 

account  of  native  superstitions,  and  haunted  houses.  The  natives 
have  a  great  dislike  to  ascend  hills,  from  fear  of  evil  sjDirits, 
which  they  think  dwell  on  them  and  on  trees — a  superstition 

that  pervades  all  this  part  of  the  east.     We  asked  Mr.  M 

if  he  knew  about  a  haunted  house  story,  which  we  had  heard  a 
great  deal  of  He  said  yes,  that  he  had  his  information  from  one 
of  the  parties  engaged  in  the  matter — a  General  Makiel,  who  at 
that  time  (twenty  years  ago),  was  aide-de-camp  to  the  Governor- 
General.     Mr.  M said  it  occurred  in  this  neighborhood. 

He  had  often  asked  the  General  to  tell  the  story,  but  he  objected, 
and  became  very  gloomy  at  the  least  reference  to  it,  though 
ordinarily  a  very  jovial  person.  At  last,  after  a  merry  evening 
with  a  party  of  friends,  his  wife  prevailed  on  him  to  tell  it. 

He  said  a  native  woman  had  cursed  her  child  about  a  year 
after  its  birth.     In  a  few  days  it  appeared  to  be  pelted  from 


292  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE, 

above  with  small  stones  and  red  spittle,  sucli  as  is  expectorated 
by  tlie  natives  who  have  been  chewing  betel  nut,  chunam,  and 
tobacco.  At  last,  the  house  became  so  notorious,  that  the  Go- 
vernor-General sent  two  ministers  of  state  to  examine  into  the 
matter ;  and  for  his  own  benefit  and  curiosity,  he  sent  his  par- 
ticular aide-de-camp.  General  M ,  with  a  body  of  hussars. 

They  formed  a  cordon  around  the  house,  and  half-a-dozen  were 
stationed  up-stairs  and  on  the  roof.  The  child  was  then  placed  on 
a  table  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  when  to  their  great  amazement, 
they  saw  the  spittle  descending  on  it,  and  also  damp  pebbles  (it 
had  rained  that  morning).  They  did  not  appear  to  come  from 
the  ceiling,  but  were  only  visible  some  three  feet  above  the  child. 
Unable  to  account  for  it,  the  Governor-General  had  the  house 
pulled  down,  to  prevent  the  continued  disturbance  it  caused.     A 

few  days  after  the  child  died.     Mr.  M produced  a  meteoric 

stone  like  a  wedge-shaped  agate,  that,  in  falling,  had  struck  the 
haunted  house.  So  now  I'll  bid  good-night,  having  given  you 
as  good  a  marvel  as  any  "ism"  lately  started  in  the  "States." 

G told  the  thing  to  Anthony  for  fun.     He  is  his  valet, 

and  has  retired  in  despair;  his  imagination,  doubtless,  will  be 
takino;  an  aerial  flioht  the  rest  of  the  nifrht,  on  a  broomstick  or 
some  such  gallant  steed,  to  the  land  of  spirits,  and  leaving  him  to 

the  tender  mercies  of  strangers,  as  G told  him  he  meant 

to  visit  the  place  to-morrow. 

August  olst,  SoMADANG. — Starting  at  six,  had  a  pleasant  drive 
back  here,  through  a  delightful  country  that  is  weighed  down 
with  luxuriance  at  every  step. 

iSej)i.  1st,  Bandong. — Started  at  five  this  morning,  and  arrived 
at  ten.  Mindful  of  the  nice  cheer  on  our  way  out,  stopped  at 
the  same  hotel.  Our  stout  hostess  looked  blooming  and  happy 
in  the  anticipations  of  her  eighth  wedding  /  /  as  we  learned  on 
paying  some  overpowering  compliments  to  herself,  her  house, 
iind  its  good  cuisine. 


Sketched  by  the  Author. 


NATIVE  HOUSE.    JAVA. 


See  page  294. 


SCARCITY   OF   TRAVELLING   CARRIAGES.  293 

We  then  took  a  carriage  to  a  neighboring  -waterfall  of  175 
feet,  a  beautiful  spot  and  fine  body  of  water.  I  made  a  sketch 
of  it,  and  then  back  to  the  hotel,  where  we  found  our  compli- 
ments had  not  been  thrown  awa}' — such  a  spread !  Off  again, 
but,  as  bad  luck  would  have  it  (perhaps  owing  to  the  meteoric 
stone),  the  horses  shied,  and  one  of  the  wheels  made  a  regular 
smash.  G walked  back  to  hunt  up  a  native  carriage- 
maker,  whose  shop  we  had  seen,  while  I  followed  the  ruins  back 
The  man  has  promised  to  repair  it  thoroughly  by  to-morrow ;  so 
we  return  to  our  fat  hostess's  hotel  for  some  more  good  curries 
and  a  night's  lodging. 

Sept.  2d,  Dtanjore. — At  six  this  morning  we  were  off  again, 
and  had  passed  the  scene  of  yesterday's  mishap  only  about  fifty 
yards,  when  we  came  down  with  a  crash,  hub  and  spokes  all 

parting  company !     G started  back  to  see  the  assistant 

Resident,  while  I  followed  with  the  carriage ;  I  soon  met  him 
returning.  He  had  seen  the  official,  who,  with  the  Regent,  were 
in  a  boiling  rage  at  a  private  jail-delivery  of  eleven  prisoners  last 
night.  In  his  fury  he  ordered  the  carriage-mal^er  to  repair  it  at 
his  own  expense.  We  went  to  the  Regent's  and  other  places,  to 
try  and  get  another  vehicle,  as  this  would  not  be  ready  for  three 
or  four  days,  since  the  other  hind  wheel  had  got  shaky,  and  they 
drive  so  little  here,  vehicles  are  very  scarce.     We  feel  we  arc  in 

a  pretty  "  muss  "  with  R &  C (his  partner),  having 

broken  their  grand  travelling  carriage,  and  we  not  able  to  get 
any  other  conveyance  to  get  back  to  Batavia.  We  received  a 
message  from  the  assistant  Resident,  that  he  had  a  carriage, 
which  to  oblige  us  he  would  sell ;  so  off  we  went  to  look  at  it.  A 
vagabond  affair,  for  which  the  rascal  asked  four  times  its  value. 
But  there  was  no  help,  for  we  must  walk  or  lose  our  steamer ; 
so  we  bought  it  and  left  our  boy  to  follow  with  the  broken 
one. 

At  the  end  of  the  first  stage,  we  found  our  purchase  did  not 
wear  remarkably  well,  and  we  were  obliged  to  send  for  a  carriage- 


294  FROM  WALL   STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

maker  to  patcli  it  up.  But  we  hope  b}^  dayliglit  to  be  off  again 
and  all  right.  As  we  came  along  we  bad  an  awful  thunder 
storm,  the  rain  pouring  in  torrents  for  two  hours,  and  I've  never 
heard  such  thunder.     The  Java  thunder  is  terrific. 

Sept.  3,  BuiTENZOG  and  Batavia. — At  five  this  morning  we 
had  started  again  with  fine  fresh  air  after  the  rain.  "We  walked 
up  the  Magmadong,  a  climb  of  3,000  feet,  and  4,400  above  the 
sea.  The  carriage  followed  on  drawn  bj  buffaloes.  At  the 
summit  we  met  Eadin-Sali,  a  native  of  high  rank,  and  a  fine  artist ; 
he  has  visited  Europe,  and  is  quite  Parisian  in  his  manners, 
speaking  French  tolerably.  We  had  a  long  conversation  with 
him,  and  then  to  Buitenzog.  The  view  descending  was  superb. 
We  reached  the  hotel  at  noon ;  after  resting  we  walked  through 
the  Governor  General's  park,  which  is  extensive,  as  is  the  Bota- 
nical Garden  ;  a  river  flows  on  one  side  of  the  park  and  a  sheet 
of  water  bounds  the  other.  In  the  Zoological  Garden  we  saw  a 
young  rhinoceros. 

At  seven  we  started  for  this  place  and  arrived  at  ten ;  our  last 
coachman  from  Buitenzog  was  a  veritable  Jehu.  We  had  par- 
ticularly ordered  him  to  drive  moderately,  which  he  promised  to 
do,  then  cracked  his  whip  and  off  at  twelve  or  thirteen  miles  an 
hour — and  dark  as  Erebus.  At  every  stopping-place  we  blew 
him  up,  receiving  the  same  promise,  and  on  starting — the  same 
result.  At  last — down  we  came  with  a  crash  and  dust  flying. 
Jumping  out,  found  only  a  front  wheel  off.  All  the  fault  of  that 
stone — no  doubt.  So  picked  up  all  the  nuts  we  could  find,  and 
for  want  of  a  linch-pin  I  furnished  a  bit  of  wire,  and  the  coach- 
man tied  it  with  rattan.  Then  he  promised  most  faithfully  to 
drive  slow,  so  we  all  got  in,  and  on,  and  off  again ;  crack,  crack, 
goes  "  coachee's"  whip,  and  crack,  crack,  follow  the  bonjons  (horse 
boys)  whips  from  behind,  and  away  go  leaders  and  wheelers  at  a 
thirteen-mile  gallop,  while  we  try  to  look  jolly  and  fancy  it 
sport,  though  we  expect  at  every  moment  another  breakdown. 
Luckily  we  arrived  safely.     The  geographical  ofl&cer  quite  forgot 


BATAVIA.  295 

his  complaisant  knowledge  of  my  name  wlien  lie  saw  it  this  time 
penned  in  so  humble  a  carriage. 

Sept.  4,  Weltervleden  alias  Batayia. — Being  Sunday,  I've 
been  in  the  house  all  day,  except  a  short  time  we  were  out  during 
the  afternoon.  This  evening  I've  engaged  a  most  droll-looking 
servant  who  speaks  English — quite  a  windfall. 

Sept.  5,  "Weltervleden. — Off  at  half-past  four  with  a  Captain 

P ,  a  Bengal  ofl&cer,  who  has  been  travelling  in  Java. 

After  breakfast  to  see  E and  C ,  and  report  our- 
selves and  mishaps.     R was   most   gentlemanly  in   the 

matter,  deploring  and  regretting  the  accident  to  us  from  his  car- 
riage, and  raved  about  the  Assistant  Resident's  conduct,  vowing 

to  tell  it  to  every  one.     C was  quiet  as  usual,  though 

showing  much  annoyance  at  the  advantage  taken  of  us.     This 

afternoon  drove  out,  and  this  evening  we  dined  at  C 's, 

who  lives  in  very  pretty  style.     Mrs.  C is  a  very  quiet 

lady-like  jDerson,  a  sister  of  Mrs.  R 's.     There  were  only 

the  two  families  present  and  we  had  a  pleasant  evening.  After 
dinner  a  servant  brought  in  the  letters  and  papers  by  the  mail 
from  England.  I  saw  in  the  Illustrated  News  that  Yanderbilt's 
yacht  was  creating  great  excitement  in  England,  It  must  asto- 
nish "  John  Bull"  to  see  a  Yankee  cruising  about  in  a  yacht 
finer  and  larger  than  their  Queen's. 

Sept.  6.— Off  at  five  for  my  morning  walk  with  G .     On 

our  way  stopped  to  see  the  exhibition,  for  which  R had 

obtained  us  special  tickets,  (as  it  will  not  be  open  as  soon  as  anti- 
cipated). At  present  everything  is  in  a  rough  unfinished  state ; 
still  we  were  much  interested  in  the  various  specimens,  manu- 
factures, etc.  Then  home  and  letter  writing,  or  trying  to  do  so, 
for  in  the  middle  of  the  day  it  is  too  hot  for  anything.  This 
afternoon  we  drove  out,  then  to  R — 's  to  dinner,  where  we 


296  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

met  the  same  party  as  before.     After  dinner  some  visitors  called, 

and  E told  them  our  experience  and  'the  Assistant  Eesi- 

dent's  villanj,  as  he  docs  to  everybody. 

Sept.  7. — Taking  my  usual  early  walk  I  met  E breaking 

in  a  saddle-horse.  Then  to  the  town  or  place  of  business  for  our 
passports  and  custom-house  passes.  The  passports  and  passes 
are  an  awful  bore  here.     Then  got  our  luggage  off,  and  bidding 

E and  C good  bye,  we  are  on  board  for  Singapore, 

having  had  a  delightful  visit  and  tour. 

Java  I  think  is  rather  over-praised  for  scenery ;  I  have  seen 
what  is  called  the  best  in  the  island  and  it  is  equalled  by  many 
parts  of  India.  The  soil  of  Java  is  remarkably  fertile,  and  pro- 
ducing a  gTcat  variety  of  crops  besides  fruits.  The  climate  is 
warm  from  January  to  January.  In  fact  Bombay  over  again, 
except  for  sickness.  The  people  are  under  the  strictest  watch 
of  the  government.  Everything  is  taxed.  The  conduct  of  all 
the  officials  of  government  looked  into,  all  intercourse  with  the 
natives  is  through  the  regents  or  native  princes.  The  Dutch 
never  come  personally  in  contact  with  them.  The  regents 
oppress  the  natives  very  much,  but  they  never  complain  until 
they  are  displaced,  and  then  the  complaints  pour  in  in  thousands. 
I  am  told  the  natives  much  prefer  the  tyranny  of  their  own 
people  to  the  immediate  government  by  the  Dutch. 

The  police  arrangements  are  exceedingly  strict.  Ko  one  being 
allowed  to  travel  at  all  in  the  island  without  a  permit,  which  is 
with  difficulty  obtained,  and  sometimes  altogether  refused.  It  is 
even  necessary  to  have  a  pass  to  leave  the  country.  They  must 
necessaril}^  derive  a  large  income  from  their  possessions  here, 
notwithstanding  the  large  force  they  are  obliged  to  maintain,  for 
owning  all  the  island  except  the  small  portion  they  have  sold, 
they  lease  the  balance  or  have  it  worked  on  their  account,  com- 
pelling the  natives  to  till  it  for  them. 

Their  boasted  roads  are  all  made  by,  and  kept  in  order  by  the 
natives  at  their  own  expense,  under  the  positive  order  and  super- 


PET  SNAKES.  297 

vision  of  the  Government.  The  travelling  is  the  most  expensive, 
beyond  all  comparison,  of  any  country  in  the  world. 

This  evening  after  a  drive  and  farewell  look  at  Batavia,  we 
bid  adieu  to  our  Hebrew  host  and  his  pretty  daughter,  and  off 
for  the  steamer.  On  reaching  the  place  of  embarkation,  the 
people  were  disposed  to  detain  us,  but  the  magic  name  of  "  Kesi- 
dent"  produced  instant  civility,  attention,  and  despatch.  On 
board  again  we  took  possession  of  our  old  quarters. 

Of  the  various  pets  of  the  Dutch  in  the  island,  I  believe  I  have 
not  spoken.  Many  keep  in  their  compounds,  or  grounds  around 
their  houses,  large  snakes  sixteen  and  eighteen  feet  long.  They 
are  not  poisonous  and  are  prevented  from  doing  harm  by  being 
well  fed !  There  is  a  small  snake  about  twelve  inches  long  and 
the  thickness  of  a  goose  quill,  called  the  oola-blanca,  that  is  hor- 
ribly venomous ;  it  is  very  much  about  rose  bushes,  and  apt  to 

strike  you  in  the  hand  when  picking  roses.     K has  had 

our  purchase  of  the  Assistant  Eesident  placed  in  front  of  the 
Exchange  so  that  it  is  the  dail}^  subject  of  conversation,  while 
he  is  careful  to  inform  all  his  acquaintances  of  the  swindle.* 
Having  gazed  on  the  shipping  and  stars  until  midnight  I  shall 
retire. 

Se2:)t.  8,  At  Sea. — This  morning  my  slumbers  were  disturbed 
while  enjoying  my  last  nap  on  the  transom  of  the  saloon,  by  the 
arrival  of  some  lady  and  gentlemen  passengers.  My  modesty  was 
shocked  at  being  thus  caught  in  my  Java  robe  de  nuit  of  sarone, 
and  no  coat,  without  the  ability  to  retreat,  but  recollecting  that 
was  quite  "  en  regie  "  for  early  morning  costume,  I  soon  mustered 
an  extra  quantity  of  assurance  (for  it  is  necessary  for  an  Eng- 
lishman or  American,  in  order  to  appear  before  a  lady  in  this 
style  of  dishabille,  though  the  Dutch,  either  from  assurance  or 

*  The  matter  I've  since  learned  reached  the  ears  of  the  Governor-General, 
who  has  issued  orders,  that  in  the  event  of  any  such  accident  occurring  again, 
the  travellers  shall  be  assisted  without  charge  by  the  nearest  Resident  or 
other  official 


298  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

long  Labit,  don't  mind  it),  and  went  up  on  deck  to  see  wlio  had 
arrived,  and  enjoy  tlie  morning  air  before  dressing,  as  coolly  as 
tbougb  Java  born. 

It  would  rather  astonish  an  American  woman's  j)ropriety,  as 
much  as  it  does  that  of  the  English  who  come  here,  to  see  a  lady 
promenading  a  hotel  piazza  or  the  deck  of  the  vessel,  as  they  do, 
with  nothing  on  but  a  sarone  over  only  one  other  article  of  a  lady's 
toilet^  as  is  the  custom  of  both  ladies  and  gentlemen  here,  and  only 
kept  in  place  by  rolling  over  and  tucking  in  at  the  waist,  what 
sailors  term  the  "slack"  of  the  skirt,  and  depending  entirely  on 
the  hips  and  this  tucking  in  to  keep  it  in  place.  Over  this,  men 
and  women  wear  a  loose  grass  cloth  sack,  that  descends  about  six 
inches  below  the  waist,  neither  sex  wearing  shoes  or  stockings, 
but  shuffling  along  in  slippers  without  heel  pieces.  The  only 
difference  is  the  women  loosen  and  let  their  hair  fall  down  their 
back,  and  the  men  leave  theirs  untouched  after  the  night's  repose, 
which  of  course  gives  it  quite  an  air  of  neglige. 

My  description  of  this  costume  is  strictly  correct.  I've  often 
seen  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  (people  I  knew  to  be  such)  walk- 
ing the  hotel  piazza  in  this  "unrig,"  and  the  ladies  receiving 
early  calls  from  their  officer  and  other  acquaintances.  It  certainly 
is  "  beauty  unadorned."  The  English  ladies  who  come  here  with 
their  husbands  from  India  to  travel,  can't  stand  such  a  want  of 
modesty,  and  usually  leave  as  soon  as  possible. 

Our  passengers  consist  of  three  ladies,  some  officers,  a  Prussian 

Jew,  who  bores  Gr and  me,  pretending  to  be  a  naturalized 

American,  and  perhaps  by  reason  of  this  pseudo-nationality,  we 
are  made  the  repository  of  his  love  affairs  in  the  matter  of  his 
approaching  nuptials   with  our  late  host's  fair   daughter.      I 

"chaff"  him,  and  excite  his  jealousy  by  hinting  that  G 

was  enraptured  with  the  fair  Sarah,  and  innocently  allude  to  my 
friend's  ships,  and  wealth,  and  the  cupidity  of  fathers,  who  so 
often  look  after  wealthy  husbands  for  their  daughters,  quite 
regardless  of  the  daughter's  choice.  And  then  that  young  ladies 
often  sacrifice  their  feelings  to  a  handsome  establishment — and 


Ski-tclied  by  tht-  Aiitljur.  gcc  pRfc  2S-J. 

JAVANESE   I'OST  COACUMAN. 


3?^^!^ 
— ^;^' 


Sketclipfi  by  tlifi  Author.  gt.g  nacre 

SANDILLA,   THE   GKEAT   CAFFKE   CHIEF. 


SINGAPORE.  299 

am  quite  sure  tiie  fair  Sarah  is  not  that  kind  of  person  or  her 
father  either. 

Our  other  passengers,  an  Irish,  (Kentucky  born,)  English  mate, 
who  also  bores  me  with  his  confidences,  and  is  what  Dickens 
terms  "  particularly  nasty,"  deeming  a  view  of  water  from  the 
ship's  deck  a  sufficiently  near  approach  to  the  article.  Then 
another,  Scotch  by  ancestry,  Java  born,  Scotch  educated,  Aus- 
tralian perfection,  as  long  as  funds  lasted,  and  at  present,  Dutch 
employe.  The  captain,  a  "John  Bull,"  Yankee  apprenticed, 
and  perfected  in  Dutch  service.     And  to  wind  up,  my  friend 

G ,  a  gentlemanly,  "wide  awake,"  speculating  Yankee, 

descended  like  myself,  from  that  first-born  child  of  the  Plymouth 
Rock  pilgrims,  the  everlasting  Peregrine  "White,  educated  at 
Cambridge,  and  by  choice  a  merchant.  And  now  you  have  us 
all,  "barring"  myself,  and  I  take  it  you  don't  wish  a  chapter  on 
that.  So  I  think  you  will  agree  with  me  that  we  are  a  motley 
set  of  curiosities  that  are  huddled  together  in  this  filthy  boat. 

Sept.  llih^  Singapore. — Yesterday  and  the  day  before  I  stopped 
at  Banca  and  Minto,  with  nothing  particular  to  interest  or  detract 
from  our  misery,  save  the  intense  heat,  missing  seeing  the 
equator,  which  we  crossed  in  the  night-time  again  (I  believe  on 
purpose  to  vex  curious  travellers),  and  the  beautiful  sail  through 
these  picturesque  waters.     To-day  anchored  here  at  half-past 

two.     T having  "sighted"  us  with  his  glass,  met  us  on 

the  wharf     Leaving  G and  T to  see  to  the  lusr- 

guge,  I  hastened  to  my  bankers  to  get  my  letters ;  I  found  a 
huge  package,  eight  inches  square,  the  collections  of  Jive  months, 
that  had  been  forwarded  from  Calcutta. 

At  the  hotel  met  a  large  party  of  Americans  from  California. 
While  I  was  away,  the  Chinese  issued  a  proclamation  •  to  tlieir 
people,  to  rise  and  murder  all  foreigners ;  and  as  they  are  known 
to  be  such  a  cut-throat  race  here,  and  so  numerous,  the  foreigners 
were  much  alarmed  and  held  meetings.  The  soldiers,  of  whom 
there  are  very  few,  have  been  constantly  under  arms ;  revolvers 


800  FROM  WALL   STKEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

■went  up  to  fabulous  prices.     We  have  laughed  much  at  our 

little  friend  T ,  who  valorously  retired  on  board  his  ship 

on  account  of  his  wife  and  child.  The  affair  turned  out  a  hoax, 
though  many  fear  that  some  day  their  threat  may  be  realized, 
when  most  unexpected. 

The  hotel  is  full  of  Australians  and  Californians  with  their 
"  six-shooters,"  and  I  have  one  also  with  the  addition  of  rifle  and 
gun ;  so  we  could  make  quite  a  show  in  our  paper-shell  fortress. 
There  was  also  another  excitement  while  I  was  away — an 
American  steamboat,  the  "  Confucius,"  for  towing  on  the  Yant- 
si-kang  river.  She  has  astonished  the  people  here,  by  her  won- 
derful speed  of  20  miles  an  hour.  I  think  it  is  the  one  sent  for 
by  Mr.  Forbes.  "  The  Cape"  (of  Good  Hope)  Telegraph  gave  a 
fanny  report  of  her.  The  telegraph,  not  being  accustomed  to 
seeing  steamers  with  walking-beam  engines,  first  reported  her  as 
a  war  steamer  (which  had  sailed  a  few  days  previous)  in  distress, 
then  a  nondescript,  and  finally,  that  it  must  be  some  "  Yankee 
notion"  bound  to  Australia. 

I  see,  by  the  date  of  one  of  my  letters,  some  more  of  the  family 
are  in  Europe,  which  must  make  a  dozen  or  more  who  have,  or 
will  wander  abroad,  and  be  home  again  without  my  seeing  them. 
From  sympathy  for  the  venerable  or  weak  eyes  of  my  readers, 
I've  quite  outdone  myself  in  penmanship  for  the  week  past,  so 
that  I  scarcely  recognize  my  own  performances  except  by  their 
unique  style ;  and  I  hope  some  of  ni}^  correspondents  will  take 
pattern  from  my  beautiful  chirography,  with  an  occasional  shake 
of  the  inkstand,  that,  as  I  don't  carry  a  copy  of  the  Damietta 
hieroglyphic  key,  or  understand  Colonel  Eawdinson's  theory,  I 
may  be  the  better  able   to    "guess"    at   their  hieroglyphics. 

G has  just  heard  of  a  beautiful  little  barque  I've  seen  here, 

which  has  beaten  the  best  English  clipper  in  these  parts  six  days 
to  Calcutta,  both  starting  the  same  day. 

Sept.  ISth. — An  early  walk  this  morning  with  a  friend,  who 
took  me  to  see  a  nutmeg  plantation.     The  trees  were  a  beautiful 


LUXURIAXT  PLANTATIONS,  301 

sight,  growing  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high,  as  graceful  in  shape 
as  if  trimmed,  and  branching  out  from  near  the  ground.  The 
fruit  resembles  an  apricot  in  form  and  size.  Some  of  the  several 
covers  form  spice.  There  were  also  a  number  of  betel-nut  trees, 
a  species  of  palm  most  graceful.  They  are  not  as  tall  as  most  of 
the  other  kinds  of  palm,  as  they  only  grow  thirty  to  fifty  feet, 
with  a  much  more  slender  trunk.  Then  the  sago  palm,  from 
w^hich  they  get  the  black  kaiar,*  for  rope  or  cable;  and  the 
traveller's  palm,  a  curiously  shaped  tree,  like  a  huge  fan, 
besides  a  great  variety  of  other  trees  and  plants;  among  the 
number  the  "  cape  jasmine,"  growing  very  large  and  luxuriant. 
My  friend  says  that  the  manilla  hemp  is  a  product  of  the  plantain 
tree. 

The  country  here  looks  like  a  dense  jungle,  it  is  so  covered 
with  luxuriant  plantations  of  nutmegs,  etc.  From  every  hill,  on. 
all  sides,  picturesque  bungalows  peered  out  from  the  trees.  As 
the  breakfast  bell  has  rung,  I  must  stop.  After  breakfast  drove 
into  town  for  commissions,  and  curiosities  to  send  home.  Among 
them,  some  cups  and  saucers  of  exquisitel}^  fine  porcelain,  the 
most  beautiful  I  have  ever  seen ;  and  I  have  only  heard  of  twelve 

finer.     They  were  found  by  chance  by  Mr,  D ,  who  divided 

with  Mr,  F ,  they  were   so  beautiful,     I  also  got  some 

"notions"  which  G found  for  me — a  Chinese  undersMrt 

for  warm  weather,  instead  of  gossamer  flannel is  of  bamboo 

network,  more  curious  than  comfortable,  I  should  think. 

I  miss  the  over-neat  Batavia  houses,  that  always  looked  as  if 
the  painter  had  given  the  last  touch  with  his  brush  that  morning. 

To-day  I  hear  of  two  sailing  vessels  at  Penang,  bound  to 
Calcutta,  and  so  I  shall  go  on  in  the  steamer,  and  take  a  passage 
in  one,  trying  sails  this  time  for  variety. 

The  snakes  are  frightfully  numerous  here,  the  country  is  so 

*  I  spell  this  word,  like  many  others,  as  they  are  prunounced,  never  having 
seen  them  written ;  nor  have  I  been  able  to  find  any  estabhshed  orthography 
for  them. 


302  FROII    WALL    STREET   TO    CASIIMEIIE. 

jungly  and  swampy.     T and  I  look* out  sharp  for  them 

in  our  morning  walks,  as  it's  always  dark  when  we  start.     Dr. 

J says  the  cobras  here  have  a  faculty,  when  they  stand 

np,  of  ejecting  poison  at  people  ;  and  he  has  known  of  its  pro- 
ducing death  when  it  got  in  the  eye.  Some  weeks  ago  the 
China  servants  found  a  large  snake  like  the  anaconda  in  the 
kitchen.  In  these  warm  climates  the  kitchens  are  always  sepa- 
rate from  the  houses.  Here  they  have  two  ;  one  had  not  been 
used  for  some  weeks,  and  on  looking  in  a  large  kettle  for  some- 
thing,  the  servants  found  this  brute.  He  lay  there,  and  fed  on 
rats,  which  he  caught  as  they  passed  near  his  head.  They  killed 
him,  and  found  he  was  eighteen  feet  long !  An  officer  told  me, 
a  few  days  ago,  his  wife  was  just  going  to  bed,  when  she  recol- 
lected something  she  wished  to  get  out  of  her  escritoire,  the  key 
of  which,  in  the  day,  she  always  carried  attached  to  a  black 
guard  riband,  and  put  it  under  her  pillow  at  night.  Just  as  she 
raised  the  pillow  to  put  her  hand  on  what  she  thought  was  the 
guard  riband,  she  saw  it  move,  and  discovered  it  was  a  horribly 
venomous  snake! 

A  few  days  since  I  saw  a  Peruvian,  who  was  staying  with  Mr. 
F at  Canton,  w^hile  I  was  there.  He  is  engaged  in  ship- 
ping China  Coolies  to  the  Guano  Islands,  under  a  philanthropic 
belief  he  has  argued  himself  into,  that  he  is  actually  performing 
a  Christian  duty  to  these  poor  w^rctches,  who  are  literally  starving 
to  death  from  an  overcrowded  population ;  while  where  he  sends 
them,  they  might  make  money,  enjoy  themselves,  and  be  happy 
— ^perhaps  so,  if  they  live  long  enough.  But  there  is  a  purgatorial 
probation  first,  of  suffocating  guano,  which  usually  kills  them  in 
two  or  three  years,  often  in  less  time,  they  are  worked  so  hard. 

Sept.  14. — The  natives  are  having  a  grand  religious  festival, ' 
and  all  the  morning  the  booming  of  cannon  has  been  like  a 
"  4:th  of  July."     The  English  mail  has  just  got  in,  and  I've  been 
in  the  reading-room  all  day  reading  speeches  made   on   the 
opening  of  the   New  York  Exhibition,   together  with   other 


VISIT  TO   PENANG.  303 

national  incidents,  steamer  "  blow  uids,"  and  rail-road  accidents. 
I  regret  to  see  "  wars  and  rumors  of  wars,"  and  it  will  interfere 
with  my  wanderings. 

Sept.  17. — This  morning  shortly  after  daylight  I  had  a  visit 

from  Mr.  A ,  who  is  taking  a  run  home  for  a  few  months. 

He  arrived  by  the  China  steamer  last  night  and  gave  me  a  full 
account  of  the  expedition  of  Commodore  Perry  to  Japan,  which 
I  will  not  repeat  as  you  will  doubtless  see  a  fuller  one  in  the 
papers  from  Bayard  Taylor,  who  accompanied  the  expedition, 
and  from  the  officers.  "We  have  a  number  of  passengers  who 
have  returned  from  Australia  with  trunks  of  gold. 

Sept.  19,  Penang. — We  came  in  at  eight.  At  ten  I  was  ashore 
and  breakfasting  with  Mr.  C ;  after  which  I  saw  the  cap- 
tain of  a  Bremen  ship  of  525  tons.  She  is  said  to  be  a  good 
sailer,  and  on  the  21st  we  shall  start  in  her  for  Calcutta. 

Several  of  the  American  ships  here  have,  besides  their  cap- 
tains, their  wives  on  board — an  arrangement  which  many  of  the 
shipowners  prefer,  as  they  say  their  masters  are  more  steady  and 
attentive  to  their  duties  and  the  interests  of  ship  and  owners. 

I  got  some  preserved  sea-weed  to-day  to  send  home  as  a  curi- 
osity for  you  to  try,  it  is  made  by  the  Chinese. 

Besides  two  Penang  lawyers.  Every  case  must  have  a  "  pro 
and  con."  They  are  a  peculiar  and  beautiful  kind  of  cane  that 
is  found  here,  with  a  large  knob  on  the  head,  which  unfor- 
tunately settles  cases  without  the  privilege  of  appeal,  which 
would  end  the  case  too  soon  to  suit  the  lawyers  I  am  accustomed 
to  seeing. 

To-day  I  have  been  amusing  myself  making  sketches  of  the 
place  and  reading  up  American  news  in  the  papers.  This  even- 
ing took  a  walk  on  the  "jetty" — the  favorite  promenade  for  the 
*'  beauty  and  fashion" — about  six  women  and  twenty  men,  mer- 
chants and  officers. 

Sept.  20. — This  morning  had  a  long  drive  to   see  the  wild 


304  FEOM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

scenery  of  this  place,  then  "  practised  shop,"  drew  a  "  will"  for 

T ,  providing  for  that  wife  and  child  who  have  caused  so 

many  groans  and  sighs  from  my  disconsolate  friend. 

Sept.  23,  At  Sea,  Ship  Aeistides. — Day  before  yesterday  we 

all  got  off.     I  have  two  fellow-passengers,  one  a  Captain  G 

from  the  Madras  Presidency,  the  other  an  indigo  planter  from 
the  Bengal  Presidenc}^  One  has  just  returned  from  Australia, 
the  other  from  New  Zealand.  The  ship  does  not  promise  very 
much  for  comfort.  She  has  only  three  cabins,  and  my  accom- 
modation is  a  bunk  in  the  saloon,  which  the  Captain  and  car- 
penter have  got  up,  draped  with  a  variety  of  flags.  The  chickens 
and  ducks  enjoy  the  largest  liberty  on  the  decks,  except  some 
caged  Shanghae  chanticleers,  who  "  wear  away  dull  time"  crow- 
ing defiance  at  each  other.  We  have  one  other  pet  or  plague — 
a  spaniel,  who  wanders  about  the  deck  frightening  chickens  and 
cat.  In  the  brief  interludes  of  sunshine,  between  wind  squalls 
and  showers,  the  mate  has  been  amusing  himself  since  we  started 
in  trying  to  stuff  a  refractory  goose.  To-day  he  was  rewarded 
by  an  egg. 

Oct.  7,  EiVER  HooGLY. — We  have  had  a  disagreeable  voyage 
thus  far,  an  almost  hourly  succession  of  storms  and  squalls  night 
and  day  ;  at  times  terribly  rough,  and  it  was  only  owing  to  good 
management  that  our  dinners  and  other  meals  were  not  sent 
flying  about  the  cabin,  and  we  after  them.  We  are  all  good 
sailors,  so  we  showed  no  vacancies  at  table. 

Our  tea  is  the  funniest  style  of  a  "  brew."  On  starting  from 
Bremen,  "  long  time  ago,"  they  began  with  a  fresh  tea-pot,  and 
at  every  successive  breakfast  and  tea  a  fresh  quantity  of  tea  was 
added  without  removing  the  old,  until  the  pot  held  more  tea  than 
water,  and  then  the  steward,  or  cabin  boy,  who  acts  in  that 
double  capacity,  removed  a  little  of  the  old  tea,  and  so  continued 
on  removing  daily  a  little  as  he  put  some  more  in.  So  imagine, 
if  you  can,  what  our  tea  is  like. 

Last  night  we  took  a  pilot  aboard.     Their  pilot-boats  are  fine 


Sketclied  by  the  Author. 


BATAVIA   STIIKKT  J^I'IilNKLKR. 


See  page  2S4. 


DIAMOND   HAEBOR.  305 

brigs  of  about  220  tons.  The  pilots  are  bigblj  paid,  and  awful 
"  swells,"  Whj  they  even  sport  a  uniform.  In  writing,  I  hap- 
pened to  look  up  and  saw  the  first  officer  allowing  a  newly 
hatched  chicken  feed  off  of  his  tongue.  He  is  especially  fond  of 
pets,  though  he  has  given  up  torturing  the  goose.  The  hens  lay 
in  his  bed,  and  to-day  one  hatched  there. 

The  river  is  very  wide  at  the  mouth,  too  much  so  to  see  land 
from  where  we  are,  and  the  channel  is  only  marked  out  by 
buoys.  The  steamer  Bentick  for  Suez,  passed  us  this  morning. 
At  two  to-day  we  anchored  in  Kedgeree  Koads,  as  the  tide 
changed.  The  current  runs  rapidly,  and  too  strong  for  us  to 
stem,  added  to  a  tide  against  us  with  only  moderate  wind.  The 
river  is  about  eight  miles  wide  here.  There  is  a  boat  load  of 
natives  alongside,  hooting  and  yelling  for  employment. 

Oct.  Sth,  Diamond  Harbor. — Several  ships  passed  us  to-day 
going  down.  Shortly  after  we  passed  Sanger,  where  the  com- 
pany's ships  anchored  before  the  days  of  steamers;  also  Sanger 
Island,  a  sacred  place  among  the  Hindoos,  where  they  formerly 
drowned  their  children ;  and  now  they  meet  here  in  thousands 
every  year  to  bathe.  They  always  follow  the  old  course  of  the 
river,  even  where  it  has  changed  its  bed.  They  are  regular  con- 
servatives. 

Shortly  after  anchoring,  a  custom-house  officer  came  aboard 
and  is  to  remain  till  we  reach  the  city.  Some  ship  suppliers 
called  sircars,  came  up  and  with  a  pertinacity  rivalling  that  of 
a  Yankee  pedlar. 

The  tide  in  the  river  rises  very  high,  and  the  current  runs  with 
the  tide  now,  about  five  miles  an  hour — in  the  summer  nine 
miles.  The  weather  is  terribly  warm !  Thermometer  98°  in  the 
shade  at  five  o'clock ! 

For  want  of  amusement,  we  get  up  an  occasional  race  on  the 
river  between  the  native  boats;  and  this  afternoon  had  some 
little  boys  of  nine  or  ten  aboard,  giving  us  specimens  of  Hin- 
dostanee  writing  on  the  deck  with  chalk. 

20 


306  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Oct.  ll^A,  Calcutta. — This  being  the  fifth  day  of  our  creeping 
up  the  river,  one  of  my  fellow-passengers  and  I,  stopped  a  return- 
ing tow-boat,  and  got  a  passage  to  the  city.  The  river  narrows 
in  approaching  the  town,  and  the  country,  though  level,  is  very 
wild,  the  shores  being  bordered  with  dense  jungle. 

About  fifteen  miles  below  the  city,  I  saw  the  first  signs  of 
civilization,  a  European  (English)  house,  a  cotton  factory  and 
distillery;  and  a  few  miles  above,  two  others.  Then  "Garden 
Eeach"  here  is  the  Botanical  Garden,  and  just  above  Bishop's 
College, — an  institution  for  preparing  young  men  for  "the 
Church." 

Calcutta  now  appeared  in  the  distance.  As  it  was  nine  in  the 
evening  it  was  only  visible  from  its  numerous  lamps.  About 
four  miles  distant,  we  passed  many  ships  lying  in  the  stream, 
and  in  another  hour  we  were  anchored.  The  tide  and  current 
being  so  strong  we  have  made  little  progress.  One  time  to-day 
we  anchored  for  three  hours,  till  the  tide  changed,  and  even  then 
the  current  of  the  river  was  so  strong  that  for  half-an-hour  the 
wheels  revolved  with  a  full  head  of  steam  on  without  our  movinsf, 
,(we  were  towing  up  a  ship). 

On  landing,  we  found  no  Coolies,  but  two  palanquins — so  we 
;put  our  luggage  in  them,  and  walked  to  the  Hotel.  It  was  full 
with  the  exception  of  two  oven-like  rooms,  which  we  took  pos- 
session of,  as  the  best  we  could  do.  To  avoid  suffocation,  I  have 
engaged  two  men  to  pull  my  punka  all  night. 

This  morning  on  opening  my  doors  and  windows,  I  was  regu- 
larly beset  by  barbers  and  pedlars.  The  former  all  insisting  I 
must  have  my  hair  cut  and  be  shaved,  and  they  were  so  nume- 
•jous,  I  almost  feared  if  I  had  allowed  it,  they  would  not  have  had 
a  chance  for  a  hair  apiece.  The  pedlars  were  equally  anxious  to 
replenish  my  wardrobe. 

My  Hindostanee  has  got  so  rusty  I  am  lost  in  this  land  of 
strange  tongues,  so  I  asked  the  landlord  to  get  me  a  servant.  He 
shortly  appeared  with  one  who  looked  as  if  he  had  been  drawn 
out  to  the  greatest  length  and  smallest  breadth — a  sort  of  defini- 


HINDOO   AND   MUSSULMAN   HOLIDAYS.  807 

tion  of  a  straight  line,  but  from  necessity  I  had  to  take  him. 
Then  went  in  to  breakfast ;  the  man  leaving  at  the  door,  said  the 
servants  of  the  Hotel  always  waited  on  the  gentlemen,  and  I  in 
my  innocence,  never  suspecting  it  was  because  he  was  a  low  caste 
Hindoo,  as  I  had  always  had  Mahommedans  before.  So  took 
my  seat,  and  nearly  lost  my  breakfast,  for  I  could  not  get  one  even 
to  look  at  me,  though  I  growled  at  every  one  who  approached. 
So  I  seized  the  dishes  nearest  me,  and  got  a  breakfast  the  best 
way  I  could,  and  afterwards  found  I  had  been  growling  at  other 
people's  servants — so  I  made  a  further  application  at  the  office, 
and  now  am  to  have  another,  a  Mussulman  who  is  to  wait 
upon  me  at  table,  while  the  other  attends  to  his  particular 
duties. 

After  breakfast  I  went  to  Messrs.  G &  Co.,  my  bank- 
ers; but  as  this  is  the  midst  of  the  Hindoo  and  Mussulman 
holidays,  and  as  all  business  is  suspended,  they  were  closed; 
for  when  the  natives  wont  work,  the  Europeans  are  forced  to  stop 

also.     I  called  on  ^Ir.  A ,  a  prominent  merchant,  to  whom 

I  had  a  letter  from  Mr,  F ,  and  another  to  his  wife  from 

Mrs.  S at  Macao ;  then  upon  the  other  gentlemen  to  whom 

I  had  letters,  and  a  fourth.  Major  B ,  a  friend  of  Mr. 

F ,  to  whom  I  had  a  very  particular  letter.  He  unfor- 
tunately had  gone  to  the  Neilgherries  for  his  health.  I  regretted 
very  much  not  seeing  him,  as  he  is  most  familiar  with  the  parts 
of  the  country  I  wish  to  visit,  and  would  thus  have  assisted  me 

much  in  my  tour.     I  then  looked  for  a  brother  of  Mr.  T 

without  success ;  but  my  good  luck  did  not  quite  desert  me,  for 

I   found  that  Colonel  Low,   to  whom   Capt.   "W gave 

me  a  particular  letter,  had  been  raised  from  Resident  at  Hyder- 
abad to  the  Supreme  Council,  and  is  now  stopping  at  the  hotel, 

having  only  just  moved  here.     This  afternoon  Messrs.  G 

&  Co.'s  clerk  brought  me  two  letters  from  the  United  States  and 
another  from  Mr.  F ,  dated  Bombay. 

Oct.  13. — Mr.  A took  me  to-day  to  the  Asiatic  Society 


308  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

rooms,  which  were  founded  by  Sir  Wilham  Jones  in  "Warren 
Hastings'  time,  and  are  principally  devoted  to  natural  history. 
There  are  original  paintings  by  old  masters,  how  they  came  no 
one  knows.  Also  portraits  of  many  of  the  distinguished  Indian 
ojB&cers,  civil  and  military ;  and  a  copy  of  the  Taj  Mahal  at  Agra. 
The  Pyadassee  stone  containing  the  edict  relative  to  religious 
observances,  and  forbidding  the  sacrifice  of  animals,  estabhshed 
and  proclaimed  by  stone  tablets  in  various  parts  of  India  three 
centuries  before  Christ,  and  translated  by  James  Princeps,  thus 
establishing  his  fame.  Fine  skeletons  of  elephants  and  other 
animals,  and  various  curious  fish.  Also  a  flexible  sandstone 
that  bends  hke  a  thin  board,  though  it  is  two  inches  thick ;  cele- 
brated swords  and  curious  armor.  "We  visited  the  Governor 
G-eneral's  Palace.  In  the  council  room  I  saw  a  fine  portrait  of 
"Warren  Hastings,  and  several  others  of  the  Governors-General. 
The  building  is  very  large  and  square,  with  a  wing  at  each  of  the 
four  corners.  It  is  quite  imposing  and  situated  at  one  end  of  the 
city  facing  the  esplanade  or  maidan.  From  this  to  the  Metcalf 
Hall,  to  introduce  me  for  the  benefit  of  the  papers  and  books. 
On  our  way  we  jDassed  the  site  of  the  Black  Hole  massacre  in 

Tank  Square.     Mr.  A then  left  me  at  the  hotel  with  an 

invitation  to  dine  with  him  on  Sunday. 

I  then  sent  for  a  Moonshee  to  regularly  teach  me  Hindostanee, 
and  commenced  with  a  lesson  of  two  hours,  and  a  dozen  more 
like  doses  to  be  taken  one  every  day  that  I  remain  here.  All 
servants  who  have  any  pretension  to  honesty  are  supposed  to  be 
ignorant  of  English.  If  it  is  known  they  understand  it,  they  are 
apt  to  lose  their  places. 

The  Hindoos  had  grand  processions  this  afternoon.  They 
wander  around  the  city  with  a  number  of  figures  or  images, 
which,  after  making  a  circuit  of  the  town,  feted,  and  "chin  chind," 
as  a  (Chinaman  would  say,  they  are  marched  down  by  the  pro- 
cession to  the  river,  where  they  are  carried  out  some  distance  in 
a  boat,  and  then  thrown  overboard  to  float  off.  During  all  these 
ceremonies  horns   and   drums   discourse   their  sweetest  music. 


A   MAHOMMEDAN   RECEPTION.  309 

I  saw  one  take  a  tumble  and  kiss  the  ground  in  his  circuit. 
They  generally  consist  of  a  centre  figure,  two  smaller  side  ones, 
and  tigers  below. 

Oct  14. — I  was  ofl"  early  this  morning  to  see  a  procession  of 
Mahommedans,  the  anniversary  of  the  death  of  Hassein  and 
Hossein,  the  sons  of  Ali  and  grandsons  of  the  Prophet.  It 
occupied  a  space  of  nearly  a  mile  in  length.  On  either  side  of 
the  street  were  flagbearers  about  ten  feet  apart,  each  with  a  cord 
fastened  to  his  staff,  and  the  cords  continued  without  intermission 
the  entire  length  of  the  procession,  thus  preventing  it  being 
broken.  Inside  were  occasional  bodies  of  police  to  preserve 
order.  Each  of  these  flagstaflfs  had  a  very  richly  embroidered 
crimson  flag  hke  my  Persian  table-cloth.  Then  in  the  centre  of 
the  procession,  were  over  a  hundred  large  Cashmere  shawls 
wound  around  the  flagstaflfs ;  then  others  of  expensive  silks 
heavily  and  richly  embroidered  with  gold  and  silver  thread. 
Several  horses  with  their  housings  covered  with  arrows  as  if 
wounded.     Then  a  coflfin  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  Coolies. 

This  is  one  of  several  that  are  got  up  by  the  wealthy  Mus- 
sulmen  Baboos,  or  money-lenders.  These  people  supply  the 
bankers,  pay  their  bills,  and  everything  of  that  kind  in  the  way 
of  business ;  their  remuneration  being  three  per  cent,  deduction 
from  the  money  paid,  which  comes  out  of  the  pocket  of  one  or 
both  parties. 

This  afternoon  Messrs.  G &  Co.'s  clerk  sent  me  my 

missing  luggage,  containing  my  Arab  dress.  Palmyra  sculpture 
in  marble,  rifle,  gun,  clothes,  books,  and  shells ;  such  a  looking 
place  as  my  room  is,  with  all  these,  and  about  a  hundred  other 
varieties  that  I  wont  trouble  you  with  a  catalogue  of. 

After  overhauling  this  medley  of  travelling  valuables,  I  suf- 
fered an  infliction  of  two  hours  in  Hindostanee  under  my  smiling 
moonshee.  I  then  set  out  for  a  drive  on  the  "  course."  This  is 
the  only  drive  the  people  here  take,  in  fact  their  sole  amusement. 
It  is  mostly  along  the  bank  of  the  Hoogly,  though  it  extends 


310  FEOM  WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

some  distance  in  the  rear,  forming  a  circuit  of  tHe  esplanade  or 
course,  I  saw  some  fine  horses  and  equipages.  To-day  I  called 
to  present  my  letter  to  Colonel  Low,  unfortunately  lie  was  out. 
They  only  have  about  an  hour  and  a  half  for  visiting,  and  the 
consequence  is  you  rarely  find  any  one  at  home. 

Oct.  loth. — Last  evening  the  Aristides  (my  ship  from  Penang) 
arrived  with  my  heavy  luggage.  Early  this  morning  I  drove 
out  to  Fort  "William,  situated  a  short  distance  below  the  city 
which  is  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river.  The  fort  is  on  a  wide 
esplanade,  or  maidan,  as  it  is  termed  by  the  natives.  Its  building 
was  commenced  in  1757  during  Lord  Olive's  government,  and 
very  shortly  after  the  battle  of  Plassey,  and  is  the  headquarters 
of  English  power  in  India.  It  is  built  after  Yauban's  celebrated 
fortress  of  Lisle,  at  a  cost  of  $10,000,000,  and  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  strongest  fortresses  in  the  world  mounting  over  six 
hundred  guns,  from  12's  to  32 's,  and  nearly  four  hundred  mor- 
tars. Its  arrangements  for  arms  and  ammunition  are  very 
extensive;  it  contains  about  60,000  stand  of  fire  and  some 
20,000  side  arms,  with  accommodations  for  5,000  barrels  of  gun- 
powder, and  balls  and  shells  by  the  million.  All  its  casements 
are  bomb  proof,  the  works  are  so  extensive,  military  men  say  they 
would  require  10,000  men  to  man  them.  There  are  two  or  three 
other  depots  for  powder  near  Calcutta  besides  the  fort.  One  or 
two  regiments  are  always  stationed  at  the  fort. 

The  city  presents  a  singular  though  fine  appearance  from  the 
fort,  with  its  domes,  spires,  minarets,  and  towers.  On  the  one 
side  the  beautiful  residences  of  the  highly  paid  employes  of  the 
government,  and  of  the  merchants ;  while  on  the  other  the  nume- 
rous shipping,  the  channels  of  their  wealth ;  and  below  the  fort, 
along  the  river  for  several  miles,  pretty  country  residences,  and 
if  not  the  most  picturesque  city  in  the  East,  is  certainly  the  most 
imposing.  The  European  part  has  wide,  clean  streets,  fine  shops 
with  all  the  comfoi'ts  of  civilized  life  one  could  find  in  London 
or  Paris.      In  the  esplanade,  but  especially  about  the  Governor- 


Sketclii'd  by  the  Author. 


DAK    TKAYKLLING    IN  IJEXUAL. 


See  page  822. 


COLONEL   LOW.  811 

General's  house,  are  great  numbers  of  adjutants  (birds)  stalking 
along  with  grave  and  dignified  pace.  At  night  thej  roost  on  the 
balustrade  around  the  house.  Last  night  being  a  full  moon  and 
verj  light  I  counted  ninety  there. 

This  afternoon  drove  down  to  Garden  Eeach  and  crossed  in  a 
boat  to  the  Botanical  Garden,  extensive  and  well  kept,  but  no 
great  affair  in  its  line,  being  as  yet  in  an  incipient  state.  Its 
principal  attraction  being  a  banyan  tree  covering  a  space  from 
125  to  150  feet  in  diameter,  the  body  from  15  to  18  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. Then  recrossed.  the  river  which  is  here  about  a 
third  of  a  mile  wide,  and  in  the  boat  heard  of  the  defeat  of  the 
Sylvie  at  the  Cowes  regatta.  This  evening  some  more  letters,  you 
appear  to  be  having  a  very  gay  time. 

Oct.  IQtli. — To-day  church.  The  large  congregation  seemed 
quite  like  civilized  regions  again.  This  afternoon  to  Mr. 
A 's  to  dinner,  rather  an  English  day  for  company  din- 
ners. There  were  ten  at  table,  and  had  a  pleasant  visit.  After- 
wards his  partner,  Mr.  B from  Boston,  took  me  out  in  his 

cab  for  an  evening  drive,  the  other  people  all  going  off  in  their 
conveyances  for  the  same.  From  the  number  of  fine  equipages 
I  met,  I  suppose  it's  quite  "the  mode"  to  drive  Sunday  after- 
noon. 

i  ■ 

Oct.  17. — I  hear  the  Chinese  rebels  have  captured  Shanghae. 
To-day  I  had  a  visit  from  Colonel  Low  who  appears  to  be  a  very 
nice  person.  He  has  filled  nearly  every  position  within  the  gift 
of  the  Indian  Government,  and  risiag  almost  entirely  by  his  own 
merit.  He  has  been  many  years  in  India,  and  now  in  much 
affliction  from  the  recent  death  of  a  favorite  dauo-hter.  He  was 
at  the  celebrated  battle  of  Assaye,  fought  by  the  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington, and  was  the  first  to  discover  the  native  forces.  When  the 
army  arrived  at  the  camping  ground  for  the  day,  he  galloped  off 
to  a  hill  for  a  view  while  the  tents  were  being  put  up,  when  he 
saw  the  whole  army  of  the  native  chief  they  were  marching  after 


312  FKOM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

to  figlit,  encamped  in  the  plain  below — tlie  battle  was  fought  by 
the  Duke  that  afternoon — and  won  as  you  know.  He  says  I  am 
too  late  to  go  to  Cashmere,  and  my  next  place  Barmah,  is  "all 
up,"  as  the  country  is  in  such  a  disturbed  state.     As  for  Nepaul, 

Colonel  L says  it  cannot  be  done,  for  the  two-fold  reason, 

it  is  most  dangerous  to  go  there  now,  the  fevers  are  so  prevalent ; 
next,  like  the  Chinese,  they  are  suspicious  of  strangers,  and  by 
the  treaty  they  stipulated  they  were  not  to  have  visitors,  and 
when  a  party  is  admitted  it  is  by  great  favor,  and  long  negotia- 
tion, so  that  is  off;  but  that  he  will  think  of  some  plans  for  me. 
At  Peshawur,  the  extreme  northwest,  they  apprehend  difiiculties. 
Colonel  Mackinson  was  assassinated  a  few  weeks  ago,  and  it  is 
supposed  at  the  instigation  of  Dost  Mahommed,  and  a  general 
plot  has  been  discovered  to  murder  all  high  in  authority  there. 
So  I  fear  I  cannot  go  higher  north  than  Lahore,  Eunjeet  Singh's 
capital,  and  then  down  to  Gwalior  through  the  Eajpootana  states 
to  Bombay,  then  westward  ho !  how  on  to  Europe  I  can't  say,  as 
that  will  depend  on  circumstances. 

Oct.  18. — This  morning  I  received  a  note  from  Colonel  Low 
(who  was  the  former  Resident  at  Oude)  containing  a  letter  of 
introduction  to  Colonel  Sleeman  the  present  Eesident,  with 
•directions  and  advice  about  my  wanderings.  I  have  bought  a 
large  and  very  minute  travelling  map  of  India;  and  at  the  Burra 
•or  great  bazaar  I  wandered  through  its  labyrinthine  mazes  seeing 
•"kin-kobs"  (very  heavy  gold  embroidered  cloth),  pearls  and 
Dacca  muslin,  none  of  which  were  verv  fine. 

The  Dacca  muslin  of  superior  quality  is  exceedingly  rare  now, 
rand  only  made  to  order.  It  is  from  eight  to  ten  dollars  a  yard, 
:and  so  fine  that  when  wet  and  laid  on  the  grass  it  is  almost 
invisible.  Formerly  it  was  much  used  by  the  Indian  ladies — 
now  they  patronize  Paris  more,  and  the  fabrics,  if  not  so  beautiful, 
are  more  "a  la  mode."  "Kin-kobs"  arc  made  at  Benares,  so 
will  have  a  better  chance  of  seeing  or  buying  them,  and  the 
pearls  are  superior  at  Bombay.     I  therefore  contented  myself 


TRANSIT   COACHES.  313 

witli  an  investment  in  beautiful  carved  and  inlaid  boxes  of  sandal 
wood  or  ivory,  native  vehicles,  etc.,  of  a  peculiar  style,  only  made 
in  India  by  the  natives,  these  come  from  Moorshedabad,  the  ancient 
capital  of  Bengal.  The  Nawaub  lives  there  still,  but  a  pension- 
ary of  the  East  India  Company. 

On  my  return  home  found  Mr.  T the  brother  of  my 

Singapore  friend,  who  said  his  brother  had  arrived,  was  staying 
at  his  house  and  he  wished  me  to  go  home  and  dine  with  them, 
which  I  did.  He  and  another  bachelor  friend  are  keeping  house 
near  Garden  Beach.  I  also  met  a  Frenchman  whom  I  had  seen 
at  Singapore,  he  was  from  Akab  on  the  Burmah  coast. 

Oct.  19. — To-day  engaged  a  transit  coach  to  Patna  for  Monday 
next.  These  transit  coaches  are  veliicles  with  bodies  about  seven 
feet  long,  four  high,  and  three  wide,  opening  on  each  side,  under 
the  centre  a  well  for  small  carpet  bags,  at  the  front  end  inside  a 
shelf  for  books  and  such  provision  as  one  wishes  for  lunch,  &c., 
around  the  top  a  rail,  where  the  servant  sits  surrounded  by  a 
fortification  of  trunks,  bags,  etc.,  and  is  supposed  to  gurgle  his 
"  hubble  bubble  "  all  day.  The  driver  sits  on  a  box  in  front  and 
drives  or  coaxes  his  horse,  for  I'm  told  they  are  an  awful  baulky 
set. 

I  called  on  Mr.  and  Mrs.  A-; .     In  walking  throu2:h  the 

bazaars,  I  was  nearly  run  over  by  a  great  swaggering  Baboo, 
who  rolled  along  in  his  gossamer  robes,  looking  as  etherial  as  a 
cloud,  but  feeling  as  bulky  as  an  elephant. 

Oct.  20th. — By  daylight  I  was  off  for  a  view  from  the  Ochter- 
lony  Monument,  160  feet  high.  It  is  erected  in  the  esplanade, 
in  honor  of  General  Ochterlony,  who  was  much  distinguished 
during  the  ISTepaulese  war.  From  this  there  is  an  admirable 
view  of  Calcutta,  the  river,  and  country.  For  miles  around  the 
land  is  as  level  as  the  esplanade. 

Then  to  the  house  of  a  very  wealthy  native  Baboo,  or  money 
changer,  inflicted  with  the  most  aristocratic  name   of  Kajah 


314  FKOil   WALL   STREET  TO  CASHMERE, 

Buddinots.  It  is  very  large,  situated  in  a  small  plot  of  ground, 
or  compound,  as  they  call  the  ground  around  a  house  in  India. 
Here  giraffes,  deer,  and  various  kinds  of  birds,  including  grave- 
looking  adjutants,  wander.  At  both  ends  of  the  house  and  in 
the  ground,  are  great  numbers  of  cages  with  birds  and  beasts ; 
of  the  former,  I  believe,  a  specimen  of  almost  every  kind  that 
breathes.  The  house  is  mostly  in  the  European  style,  large  and 
commodious.  His  courtesy  in  exhibiting  it  is  sadly  abused,  if 
the  visitors  I  saw,  with  their  loud  and  vulgar  remarks  and  criti- 
cisms, were  fair  specimens. 

After  breakfast  I  went  to  Mr.  A 's  by  appointment,  to 

see  the  mint,  which,  I  am  informed,  after  that  at  St.  Petersburg, 
is  the  largest  in  the  world.  Unfortunately  they  were  repairing 
a  part  of  the  works,  and  I  only  saw  a  small  portion  of  it  in  ope- 
ration, but  enough  to  show  the  perfect  manner  in  which  it 
performed.  There  is  an  immensity  of  detail,  and  much  of  it 
most  ingenious,  as  every  coin  passes  through  so  many  processes. 
It  has  so  happened  I  have  never  visited  a  mint  before,  and  have 
thus  commenced  at  the  top  of  the  list.  When  in  full  operation, 
they  coin  800,000  rupees  and  350,000  annas  (a  copper  coin) 
in  a  day. 

As  silver  and  copper  are  the  only  coin  seen  in  India,  there  is 

a  great  demand  for  them.     Mr.  A gave  me  a  letter  of 

introduction  from  Mrs.  A to  Mr.  F ,  her  brother, 

who  is  deputy  commissioner  at  Lahore,  and  has  written  to  him 
to  inform  me  if  I  shall  be  able  to  go  to  Cashmere,  and  all  about 
it,  as  he  has  lately  returned  from  there.  So  if  any  one  wants  a 
few  Cashmere  shawls  speak  quick. 

Od.  2l6/. — I  am  progressing  famously  with  Hindostanee. 
Two-hour  doses  with  hard  study  work  wonders.  I  think  I  shall 
apply  for  a  professorship  before  long. 

At  the  horse  bazaar  to-day,  I  saw  some  one  being  "  done ;"  horse 
jockeys  are  the  same  everywhere.  It  is  rather  late  in  the  season 
for  the  Arabs,  so  did  not  see  many  good  ones.     Then  to  our 


WONDERFUL   CATERPILLARS,  315 

consul's,  Mr.  H ,  an  intelligent  person.    He  has  been  consul 

here  for  twenty-five  years,  and  so  mucli  liked,  lie  was  appointed 
one  of  tlie  three  commisioners  from  India  to  the  London  Exhi- 
bition in  1851. 

He  showed  me  some  caterpillars  he  had  received  from  a  friend 
in  New  Zealand.  They  are  a  peculiar  kind,  and  at  a  certain 
stage  in  their  existence,  the  germ  of  a  tree  sprouts  from  the 
middle  of  their  back,  and  shoots  after  the  caterpillar  becomes 
stationary  ;  and  the  tree  absorbs  the  body,  takes  root,  and  even- 
tually forms  one  of  their  largest  forest  trees.  He  had  six  or 
seven,  and  has  promised  to  send  me  one.  This  fact,  extraordinary 
as  it  may  seem  to  the  reader,  was  fully  corroborated  in  a  conver- 
sation the  author  had  in  1854,  with  Tyrone  Power,  Esq.,  son  of 
the  distinguished  comedian  of  that  name,  who  was  lost  in  the 
ill-fated  President,  and  whom  the  author  met  returning  from  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  in  the  suite  of  the  late  General  Sir  George 
Cathcart.  Mr.  Power  was  for  a  long  time  stationed  in  New 
Zealand,    and  wrote    a  book    on    the   Island.     Then    to   Mr. 

T 's  store  ;  met  an  American  merchant,  a  Mr,  L , 

who  lives  here.     He  invited  me  to  meet  a  party  of  friends  to 

dine  at  his  house  to  morrow  evening.    While  at  T 's  ofiice,  a 

man  came  in  with  some  handsome  pineapple-cloth  handkerchiefs, 
sleeves,  etc.,  beautifully  embroidered ;  I  purchased  a  number. 

Oct.  22cl. — I  began  to  pack  up  again  this  morning,  and  put 
away  124  sketches,  besides  a  number  I  shall  keep  with  me ;  and 
as  you  already  have  one  or  two  books  full,  you'll  think  I  am 

industrious.     Then  with  T to  look  at  some  Cashmere 

shawls  ;  the  man  had  some  very  handsome  ones  for  600  rupees, 
which  would  bring  about  $800  in  New  York,  the  profit  from 
here  being  about  three  hundred  per  cent.  Then  went  to  bid  all 
my  friends*  good-bye. 

To-day  looked  in  at  Cook's  famous  Arab  stables,  where  he 
generally  has  several  thousand  horses,  mostly  Arabs.  Then  did 
up  shopping  supplies  for  my  tour.     I  saw  four  men  carrying  a 


316  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

large  stone  on  their  heads,  one  man,  being  shorter  than  the  rest, 
made  up  the  diiBference  of  height  by  a  brick  under  the  stone ! 
I've  often  heard  of  people  being  elevated  by  "  a  brick  in  the 
hat,"  but  never  from  a  brick  on  the  head. 

Calcutta  has  a  large  number  of  religious,  scientific,  literary, 
and  charitable  institutions,  besides  banks,  insurance  companies, 
courts,  masonic  lodges,  and  other  evidences  of  a  prosperous 
people.  They  have  a  medical  college,  established  in  1834  by 
Lord  William  Bentinck,  one  of  the  Governors-General.  Here 
natives  are  taught,  and  become  useful  as  assistants  in  the  various 
stations. 

From  their  great  horror  of  touching  a  dead  body,  the  natives 
were  at  first  unwilling  to  practise  dissecting ;  but  many  have 
now  overcome  this  prejudice,  and  go  regularly  through  the 
course.  There  is  a  new  class  of  Bengalees  springing  up,  called 
"  Young  Bengal,"  who,  unfortunately,  imitate  only  the  bad  traits 
of  the  English. 

The  native  servants  in  Madras  sometimes  sav,  when  asked 
what  religion  they  are,  "Oh!  I'm  master's  religion."  "What 
do  you  mean  by  master's  religion?"  "  Oh  !  I  swear  and  drink 
brandy  pawny "  (brandy  and  water).  It  is  rather  a  slander  to 
say  the  masters'  religion  is  to  drink  brandy  and  swear.  They 
do  drink  in  India  more  than  the  hot  climate  warrants,  but  mostly 
"pale  ale"  now.  Though  brandy  at  one  time  was  drank  a  great 
deal,  the  swearing  part  is  decidedly  untrue.  I  have  very  rarely 
heard  an  English  gentleman  use  profane  language.  It  marks 
the  gentleman  as  much  with  them  as  with  us.  Even  more  so  ; 
for  our  young  Americans  are  very  apt,  in  the  absence  of  size  or 
ability  to  raise  a  moustache,  to  try  and  make  themselves  promi- 
nent by  sir-ong  expressions. 

Many  of  the  shops  are  large,  and  even  elegant  for  ladies'  toilets, 
in  laces,  silks,  etc.,  or  in  the  matter  of  jewelry.  Some  of  the  large 
London  houses  have  branch  establishments  here,  Calcutta  having 
quite  a  numerous  resident  European  population,  who  are  here 
solely  to  make  money,  and  not  for  their  health,  as  shopkeepers 


SPORTS  IN  INDIA.  317 

say  wlien  you  complain  of  their  asking  one  or  two  hundred  per 
cent,  profit  on  their  wares. 

The  commerce  of  Calcutta  is  large,  the  import  amounting  to 
about  $26,000,000,  and  of  export  $50,000,000 ;  whereas  Bombay 
has  much  less,  and  her  exports  and  imports  are  about  the  same, 
$20,000,000;  and  Madras  only  imports  $4,000,000  and  exports 
$8,000,000. 

Our  consul  told  me  that  since  California  was  opened  our  trade 
with  India,  and  especially  Calcutta,  had  been  rapidly  increasing, 
being  for  the  last  year  ninety-seven  ships.  The  native  population 
of  Calcutta  is  between  600,000  and  700,000.  Though  the  Eng- 
lish all  feel  that  living  in  this  country  is  a  most  complete  exile, 
they  try  to  keep  up  a  resemblance  to  home  in  their  sports,  and 
have  races  and  hunts ;  for  the  latter,  in  the  scarcity  of  foxes  sub- 
stitute jackals.  They  have  their  hunting  meets  for  the  Calcutta 
sportsmen  about  eight  miles  from  the  city,  and  like  their  other 
out-door  exercises,  it  is  nearly  or  quite  finished  for  the  day  by 
the  time  foxhunters  in  England  are  coming  in  to  the  meet. 

The  little  Arab  makes  up  by  his  endurance  and  activity  for 
his  want  of  bone  and  size,  which  do  not  tell  so  much  in  this 
country,  in  the  absence  of  fences,  ploughed  fields,  and  park  walls. 
While  in  the  interior  they  have  their  "pig-sticking"  (boar- 
hunting),  which  is  done  on  horseback  also.  The  great  obstacle 
to  jackal-hunting,  this  substitute  for  foxhunting,  is  with  the 
dogs,  who,  like  their  masters,  will  get  the  liver  complaint  though 
not  of  their  "masters'  religion."  The  government  has  endea- 
vored, at  different  times,  to  breed  horses  for  army  and  other 
purposes,  and  for  that  object  has  had  establishments  in  various 
parts  of  the  country,  but  without  attaining  the  desired  end  of  size, 
quality,  and  cheapness,  although  they  have  made  the  experiment 
with  English,  Australian,  Arab,  and  native  horses. 

About  seven  miles  from  Calcutta  is  Dum  Dum,  the  artillery 
headquarters  of  this  Presidency.  Thirteen  miles  further  is 
Barrackpore,  the  infantry  station  and  headquarters.  In  1832,  at 
Cassipore,  four  miles  from  Calcutta,  a  foundry  for  brass  ordnance 


318  FRO:\I   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

was  established,  where  they  now  make  all  that  is  required  for 
their  army. 

I  have  before  alluded  to  the  enormous  pay  of  Indian  officials, 
and  while  in  Calcutta,  the  centre  of  the  highest  pay,  I  will  speak 
of  a  few  of  those  offices  here.  The  Governor-General  is  ap- 
pointed for  five  years,  he  receives  £25,000  a  year,  which,  with 
allowances  of  various  kinds,  I  am  informed,  increase  it  to 
£70,000.  Each  of  the  members  of  the  Supreme  Council  have 
£10,000,  with  the  privilege  of  sending  their  money  to  England 
at  enormous  profits  in  exchange  allowed  to  them.  The  Com- 
mander-in-Chief also  has  his  appointment  for  five  years,  his 
military  pay  is  £8,000  per  annum,  besides  £10,000  as  member 
of  the  Council,  which  he  can  never  attend,  for  his  general  duties 
of  Commander-in-Chief  keep  him  away  from  the  city.  They 
are  always  appointed  from  the  Queen's  instead  of  the  Company's 
service,  and  thus  have  rarely  or  never  seen  service,  or  had  large 
command  before  arriving  in  India,  instead  of  meritorious  officers 
of  the  Indian  service  who  have  had  experience.  They  are 
appointed  from  favor  rather  than  merit,  hence  the  various  blun- 
ders in  the  Seikh  wars,  and  especially  at  Chillianwallah,  which 
have  necessarily  been  overlooked  to  preserve  the  British  prestige 
of  universal  success  in  India. 

After  the  battle  of  Chillianwallah,  Lord  Gough,  with  every 
requisite  as  a  gallant  soldier  (but  knowledge  and  experience 
of  general  command),  blindly  marched  his  army  into  the  very 
midst  of  the  enemy's  chosen  fighting  ground  before  he  even 
knew  where  they  were,  and  then  would  have  been  cut  to  pieces 
had  he  not  had  such  admirable  English  troops  to  support  him. 
One  regiment  alone,  the  gallant  28th  Foot,  a  regiment  800  strong, 
came  out  of  a  fearful  charge  leaving  nearly  500  dead  on  the 
ground.  This  battle  originated  a  series  of  recriminations  that  to 
this  day  exist  in  India  between  the  different  services,  and  destroy 
a  harmony  that  should  otherwise  exist.  After  this  battle,  which 
was  known  all  over  India  among  the  natives  in  incredible  short 
time,  by  some  mysterious  system  they  have,  long  before  it  was 


MISSIONARY  SUCCESS   IN   INDIA.  319 

known  to  tlie  Europeans,  even  as  far  south  as  Madras.  So  great 
was  the  wonderment  of  the  natives  at  the  Seikh  success  and  Bri- 
tish defeat,  that  they  asked  their  masters  in  perfect  amazement  if 
true.  It  threw  such  a  gloom  over  India,  the  masters  often  told 
me,  every  man  in  India  was  ashamed  to  look  his  servant  in  the 
face  until  victory  turned  at  Goojerat  a  few  weeks  after. 

Sir  Charles  Napier,  I  believe,  is  almost  the  only  instance  of  a 
great  and  successful  general  sent  from  England  who  was  not 
first  trained  by  Indian  wars.* 

Now,  that  the  electric  telegraph  has  been  introduced,  Calcutta 
will  be  the  centre  of  instantaneous  communication  with  every 
part  of  India,  and  the  Governor-General  will  be  able,  in  a  few 
years,  to  converse  with  every  authority  under  him  without 
mo\ang  from  his  chair. 

Tlie  changes  in  India  have  been  almost  as  rapid  as  in  our  own 
countrj^  Whole  empires  have  been  overthrown  by  English 
power,  and  every  few  years  they  have  added  a  province  as  large 
as  England — often  larger.  The  Deccan,  Carnatic,  Punjaub, 
Scinde,  Sattara,  and  Pegu,  have  been  succdfesively  conquered 
and  subdued,  or  quietly  annexed ;  generally  the  former.  Now 
they  all  form  a  quiet  industrious  people.  Steam  and  the  tele- 
graph will  be  the  great  civilizers  of  India,  while  the  missionaries 
keep  steady,  successful  pace  in  their  humble  but  glorious  efforts 
to  Christianize.  A  difficulty  that  can  only  be  realized  by  know- 
ing the  people  they  have  to  deal  with,  and  yet  how  wonderful 
their  success. 

In  India  and  Ceylon  there  are  22  missionary  societies  with 
nearly  450  missionaries,  and  112,000  native  Christians.  They 
maintain  1,300  day  schools,  and  93  boarding  schools,  containing 

*  Surely  an  army  that  can  produce  a  Olive,  Ochterlony,  a  "Williams  of  Kars, 
a  Havelock,  (who  if  not  an  Indian  officer,  but  a  Queen's,  was  Indian  by 
adoption  and  long  service),  a  Neill,  an  Outram,  Wilson  of  Delhi,  Nicholson, 
and  a  host  of  others,  might  furnish  a  competent  commander-in-chief;  and  he, 
from  being  brought  up  in  the  Indian  service,  would  understand  the  people 
and  the  service  which  is  so  entirely  different  from  every  other. 


320  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

2,400  boys.  And  the  female  education — one  of  tlie  greatest  of 
all  missionary  difficulties  to  be  overcome — embraces  347  day  and 
102  boarding  schools,  the  former  with  over  1,100,  and  the  latter 
with  nearly  3,000  scholars. 

The  entire  Bible  has  been  translated  into  ten  languages,  the 
New  Testament  into  j'lfe  others,  separate  gospels  mio  four  others, 
and  70  tracts  have  been  prepared  in  these  different  languages, 
suitable  for  Hindoos  and  Mussulmans.  The  missionaries  main- 
tain in  India  twenty-five  printing  presses. 

The  reigning  sovereign  of  Travancore  (Southern  India),  a  high 
caste  and  orthodox  Hindoo — has  the  Bible  read  in  all  the  schools 
in  his  dominions. 

Oct.  23. — To-day  to  church,  this  afternoon  at  the  Cathedral, 
where  we  had  the  Bishop,  assisted  by  four  clergymen.  The 
building  looks  most  curious,  like  a  railway  depot  with  the  vari- 
ous contrivances  of  beams  and  cross-beams,  supporters,  and 
props.  This  evening  my  travelling  servant  has  appeared  with 
all  his  "toggery."^  The  natives  dread  going  north  as  much  as 
if  the  polar  regions  lay  only  a  few  miles  distant,  and  we  were 
going  there  for  a  winter.  He  has  left  me  about  half-a-dozen 
times  to  go  home  to  bid  his  father,  his  mother,  his  sister,  and  his 
little  brother  good-bye,  besides  his  wife  and  all  her  responsi- 
bilities. 

Oct.  24. — Having  left  my  box  of  collections  with  my  banker 
to  send  home,  I  was  off  in  my  transit  carriage  this  morning 
early.  The  suburbs  of  the  city  are  peopled  by  natives,  living  in 
long  ranges  of  dilapidated  houses.  Then  on  passing  Barrackpore 
where  the  Governor-General  has  a  country  residence,  there  were 
110  elephants  feeding,  they  are  kept  at  government  expense  for 
military  purposes.  Barrackpore  is  celebrated  for  a  massacre  that 
took  place  some  years  ago,  owing  to  the  proposed  change  in  the 
Sepoys'  hats,  the  uniform,  and  to  drop  their  caste  marks.  After 
this  crossed  the  Ganges,  and  through  the  small  village  of  Chan- 
dernagore,  the  French  settlement,  which  is  very  neat. 


TRAVELLING  UP  COUNTRY.  321 

On  driving  along  I  saw  some  pretty  women.  The  military 
consist  of  25  Sepoys.  Then  Scrampore,  a  small  Danish  settle- 
ment. Then  on  a  few  miles  further,  with  awfully  balky  horses, 
through  a  country  rather  thickly  settled.  I  passed  parts  of  the 
new  railway  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  and  stopped  at  Pundooah 
Bungalow  at  half-past  three,  where  I  had  breakfast  and  dinner 
in  one  meal.  As  I  was  finishing  an  old  Indian  drove  up,  and  I 
see  him  under  the  verandah  smoking  his  hookah,  doubtless 
wishing  me  gone,  as  I  have  the  only  good  room. 

Oct.  25,  Saldangah  Bungalow. — Off  last  night  at  five,  the 
horsesbeingof  the  same  balky  disposition,  their  occasional  freaks 
and  the  consequent  gyrations  of  the  carriage  often  awakening 
me,  prudence  induced  me  several  times  to  push  open  the  sliding 
doors,  as  an  upset  with  closed  doors  that  would  only  open  by 
main  force,  would  have  been  disagreeable.  The  night  was  warm, 
but  I'm  happy  to  say  my  bed  was  comfortable,  and  I  enjoyed 
the  repose. 

This  morning  at  Khyrasoole  bungalow  a  cup  of  tea,  and 
capital  "moorghie  grill"  (broiled  chicken),  and  various  other  nice 
preparations,  were  "  tired  nature's  sweet  restorer,"  besides  an 
old  volume  of  the  Illustrated  London  News  to  improve  my 
mind  with  in  the  spare  moments ;  luxurious  for  a  poor  traveller, 
was  it  not? 

This  afternoon  the  journey  has  been  over  a  more  hilly  country. 
Hitherto  an  almost  perfect  level,  varied  only  by  such  slight 
elevations  as  would  scarce  aspire  to  the  name  of  hillocks.  I 
crossed  some  very  shaky  wire  bridges.  I  noticed  one  steadied 
with  a  small  cord — a  durable  fastening. 

At  five  this  afternoon  I  stopped  at  this  bungalow,  where  I 
tound  the  greater  part  occupied  by  what  I  suppose  are  milliners, 
or  equally  elevated  personages,  and  the  piazza  filled  with  tele- 
graph wire.  I  beg  pardon  of  the  parties  for  nearly  omitting 
the  only  wayfarers  I  saw — a  gentleman  with  an  incipient  mous- 
tache, and  a  lady  with  very  pretty  white  hand  and  rings.     They 

21 


322  fro:m  wall  street  to  cashmere. 

were  going  up  country  in  a  buggy  (what  we  call  gig)  drawn  by 
Coolies.  I  did  not  see  her  face,  tbougli  I  boldly  sliowed  my 
rubicund  phiz.  She  was  content  with  peeping  at  me  from  behind 
the  curtain.  I  also  passed  near  some  Hindoo  towers  which  are 
curious  affairs.  There  were  four,  in  pairs,  and  looked  like  domes 
on  pedestals.  A  jackal  honored  me  with  a  gaze  at  half  pistol 
shot.     In  the  distance  I  saw  some  tall  white  chimneys. 

Oct.  2Gthj  BuGGHODEN  Bungalow, — I  was  off  again  last  night 
at  seven.  I  found  this  morning,  in  my  disturbed  dreams,  I  had 
disposed  of  a  slipper,  and  my  Hindostanee  dictionary — one 
useful,  and  the  other  very  necessary  at  present.  But  my  philo- 
sophy overcame  my  grief,  and  I'm  quite  tranquil.  Almost  every 
hour  during  the  night  I  was  woke  by  "Sahib,"  "Sahib," 
"bucksheesh,"  by  Coolies  or  sices  (horsekeepers),  according  as 
we  stopped  for  hills,  for  not  a  bit  of  uphill  work  vrould  the 
horses  do,  or  when  we  had  changed  horses. 

Then  had  a  "bit  of  a  row"  between  the  coachman,  the  sices, 
and  Coolies.  I  tried  to  get  an  insight  into  the  business,  and 
they  obligingly  endeavored  to  condense  the  story,  each  giving  his 
own  account  at  the  same  time ;  and  as  my  Hindostanee  was  very 
limited  under  the  most  favorable  circumstances;  as  the  united 
efforts  of  this  frantic  crowd  had  not  succeeded  in  waking  up  my 
Khansamar  (the  Bengalee  for  butler),  I  tried  my  luck  in  rousing 
him  from  his  gentle  slumbers  and  downy  couch  on  the  transit 
coach  top,  surrounded  by  a  battlement  of  trunks,  bags,  pans, 
and  kettles.  After  a  quarter  of  an  hour  more  of  this  Babel,  he 
commenced — not  exactly  "fellow-citizens"  but — "Sahib — he — 
other  sice — coachmen — they  all  be  too  muchee  humbug — sick 
horse — ho  talky — chota — no  strong — he,  all  other  men  bad — 
they  no  go."  So  interrupting  him  in  the  midst  of  this  lucid 
explanation,  told  him  to  go  to  bed  again,  and  seeing  no  possi- 
bility of  solving  or  settling  the  matter,  I  turned  over  and  went 
to  sleep,  leaving  them  to  go  on  or  not  as  they  pleased.  I  always 
have  to  do  my  own  Hindostanee  in  the  night-time,  and  in  the 


AN  ARAB  VILLAGE.  823 

excitement  of  tlie  moment,  I  suppose  I  made  a  fanny  jum]}le 
of  it. 

This  morning  the  country  is  hilly  and  picturesque,  watered  by 
numerous  small  streams  that  lend  a  beauty  to  the  landscape. 
Passed  an  Arab  village ;  it's  singular  how  these  people  retain 
their  national  features,  and  customs  wherever  they  go.  Their 
bright  flashing  eyes  and  stern  look  were  the  same  here  as  in  the 
desert,  and  every  man  wore  a  sword  the  same  as  there.  The 
soil  is  now  poorer  and  less  cultivated. 

At  tlie  bungalow  this  evening,  I  found  a  rara  avis  in  these 
regions — a  Madras  butler ;  he  had  been  all  through  the  Punjaub 
campaigns. 

Oct.  21th,  GiAGA. — Crossed  at  daybreak  this  morning  the 
Kossyola  river,  by  a  long  stone  bridge,  and  then  a  transit  coach 
on  its  way  to  Calcutta  with  two  ladies — one  quite  pretty.  At 
half-past  eight  this  evening,  I  turned  off  for  this  place  and  Patna, 
which  are  off  the  regular  route,  and  so  was  obliged  to  take 
Coolies  to  drag  the  coach,  instead  of  horses.  The  roads  were 
horrible,  and  the  country  poor  and  flat.  Stopping  at  a  bungalow 
for  breakfast,  I  was  on  here  by  four,  passing  a  small  Hindoo 
temple,  and  a  number  of  water  tanks  for  irrigation. 

This  place  is  quite  large.  Many  of  the  houses  are  like  small 
fortresses.  As  I  passed  the  bungalow  of  a  European,  I  saw  him 
scanning  me  with  a  lorgnette. 

r 

Oct.  2Sih,  Patna. — Last  night  I  was  off  at  six  again,  for  I 
travel  all  night,  and  stop  twice  a  day ;  an  hour  in  the  morning 
for  breakfast,  and  the  same  at  night  for  dinner,  eating  my  lunch 
as  I  jog  along,  and  thus  accomplish  an  average  of  about  a  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles  a  day.  Just  as  I  was  starting,  a  gentle- 
man and  lady  taking  a  drive  passed  me.  I  saw  a  small  river 
skirting  the  town,  and  a  high  hill  with  a  Hindoo  temple.  The 
road  was  horrible,  and  my  men  encouraged  each  other  with  yells 
that  would  have  put  to  the  blush  a  New  York  fire  company  in 
full  cry. 


824  fro:*!  wall  street  to  cash^iere. 

At  tlie  bungalow  I  was  waited  on  bj  a  most  obsequious  butler, 
wbo,  when  I  spoke,  folded  bis  bands  as  reverently  as  if  I  bad 
been  Bbudda  or  Seva  bimself  I  got  in  at  balf-past  seven.  For 
miles  before  it,  is  a  vast  rice  field,  which  the  owners  were  water- 
ing by  means  of  small  channels  or  gutters  filled  by  a  swinging 
canoe,  which  dipped  up  and  discharged  the  water  as  it  oscillated. 

Od.  29/A. — I  have  been  wandering  through  the  town  this 
morning.  It  is  one  of  the  wealthiest  in  India,  and  the  second  in 
rank  I  believe.  Formerly  it  was  much  more  important.  There 
are  as  many  Mussulmans  here  as  there  are  Hindoos  at  Benares. 
It  looks  half-deserted  and  in  ruins.  I  did  not  see  half-a-dozen 
good  houses  in  it.  The  mosques  and  temples  are  quite  fourth- 
rate.  The  streets  are  dirty  and  narrow,  with  the  exception  of 
one,  which  is  wide  and  runs  the  length  of  the  town  ;  at  one  end 
are  the  bazaars,  which  are  curious,  with  all  sorts  of  lacquered 
cups  and  trifles.  One  never  sees  the  valuables  exposed  for  sale 
in  Eastern  countries,  as  with  us,  or  in  Europe,  to  attract.  Often 
merchants  worth  hundreds  qf  thousands  of  dollars  do  all  their 
business  in  a  miserable  dirty  place,  and  very  likely  sitting  on 
the  ground. 

This  is  Cue  great  opium  district,  and  especially  of  Bengal. 
There  is  a  large  factory  for  making  it  up  and  packing  it  to  send 
to  China,  which  must  receive  it,  nolens  volens.  Their  refusing  it 
caused  the  Chinese  war  of  1842,  for  the  Indian  Government 
must  sell  its  opium  or  it  cannot  exist,  even  if  "John  Chinaman" 
does  die  from  its  use;  and  he  should  not  object,  for  he  will  die 
m  his  own  country,  which  he  always  wishes  to  do,  and  he  will 
be  dying  in  the  cause  of  humanity,  by  saving  "John  Company's" 
life,  a  thing  "John  Company"  feels  a  great  interest  in  preserving. 
This  year  they  will  send  away  85,000  chests,  and  next  year 
40,000 !  and  so  on  increasing.  The  poppy  is  brought  here,  in 
February  or  March  in  pulp,  leaf,  or  stalk,  as  may  be.  The  pulp 
IS  worked  to  a  certain  consistence,  and  looks  like  a  thick  black 
paste  or  dough.     It  is  then  rolled  into  large  balls  eight  inches  in 


DESCRIPTION   OF   A  CURIOUS   GIG.  825 

diameter,  tlien  covered  witli  a  tliin  popp}'  paste,  and  over  that, 
a  cover  of  poppy  leaves  pressed  and  dried  until  it  is  quite  tough. 
When  dried,  it  is  rolled  in  oil  paper,  and  put  up  in  small  boxes, 
one  ball  in  each,  for  China,  It  produces  a  revenue  to  the  govern- 
ment of  over  $22,000,000.  It  all  belongs  to  government,  and  is 
raised  by  them,  the  natives  being  paid  fixed  prices  for  working 
it,  and  the  whole  under  charge  of  agents. 

On  my  return  to  the  bungalow,  I  was  annoyed  by  a  drunken 
fellow  who  occupied  the  other  part.  He  first  begged  me  for 
clothes  and  money;  not  giving  him  any,  he  tried  cursing,  not 
even  sparing  my  relations. 

Fragments  of  wall  indicate  the  former  fortifications  of  the  city, 
and  an  occasional  large  house  and  garden  the  establishment  of 
some  wealthy  native.  The  city  is  immediately  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  on  a  point  of  land.  The  river  (the  Ganges)  is  about  three 
quarters  of  a  m"ile  wide  here,  and  half  of  that  space  is  filled  with 
small  islands.  The  country  around  is  low  and  void  of  beauty 
except  to  the  rice-grower. 

The  people  drive  a  curious  kind  of  vehicle,  a  sort  of  gig  ;  it  is 
on  two  wheels,  with  wide  guards  above  them.  They  (the  two) 
scramble  in  over  the  wheels,  and  sit  one  on  each  side  coiled  up, 
while  the  driver  does  the  same  in  front,  and  almost  witli  his 
hands  on  the  horse's  back.  The  horse  has  a  hiijh  odd  saddle  of 
scarlet  cloth,  with  a  horn  of  the  same  material  in  front,  w^hich  is 
about  eighteen  inches  high,  curving  backwards,  and  ornamented 
with  tinsel.  From  this  saddle  go  two  bands,  one  around  the 
horse's  neck,  the  other  around  his  body  ;  and  the  two  shafts  or 
two  pair,  for  on  each  side  are  two,  one  from  the  lower  part  of 
the  body  and  the  other  from  the  seat,  and  mfeeting  at  the  horse's 
neck,  are  attached  to  the  saddle  so  high  up,  that  should  he 
stumble,  he  would  most  likely  slip  out  of  the  shafts. 

In  the  bazaar  I  saw  them  pounding  foil,  and  one  shop  front 
was  covered  with  tinfoil.  The  city  appears  to  consist  chiefly  of 
one  main  avenue  or  street,  with  a  multitude  of  minor  ones,  barely 
sufficient  in  width  for  two  donkeys  to  pass  each  other.     The 


826  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

houses  are  all  low  and  insignificant ;  formerly  and  at  present 
too,  I  believe,  many  of  the  wealthier  people  dwelt  on  the 
river's  edge. 

Unable  to  get  a  boat,  I  was  obliged  to  content  myself  with 
a  terra  firma  view,  which  disappointed  me  in  two  ways,  for, 
besides  the  view,  I  had  hoped  to  have  taken  a  sketch  from  that 
side.  By  far  the  most  odd-looking  affair  or  structure  in  or  about 
the  town,  is  a  beehive-looking  granarj'-  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
city,  and  towering  above  everything  else.  I  think  upwards  of 
eighty  feet  high,  and  blackened  by  man  or  time.  There  are 
two  flights  of  stairs  on  the  exterior,  leading  up  from  opposite 
sides.  It  was  erected  in  1786  to  provide  against  famine.  But 
whether  filled  or  not  the  tablet  does  not  state.  The  probability 
is  against  it,  from  the  blank  in  this  part. 

Several  Europeans  are  residing  here.  They  are  building  a 
pretty  little  church.  There  have  been  several  arrivals  and 
departures  from  the  bungalow  this  evening. 

Oct.  SOlh,  DiNAPORE. — As  there  is  no  chance  of  getting  a  boat 
for  Benares,  and  the  steamer  does  not  stop  here,  I  shall  continue 
on  by  dak  carriage.  I  came  up  as  far  as  this  by  dak,  to  avoid  a 
very  tedious  roundabout  way  the  steamer  is  obliged  to  take  to 
get  into  the  Ganges  from  the  Hoogly.     As  I  am  expecting  Mr. 

F 's  letter  about  Cashmere  at  Allahabad,  I  must  hurry  on. 

So  I  came  on  to  this  cantonment,  bag  and  baggage,  this  morning, 
trusting  to  luck  for  lodgings,  as  they  assured  me  at  the  last 
bungalow,  that  there  was  no  bungalow  or  other  convenience  for 
travellers.  It  was  a  pleasant  little  drive  of  six  miles,  part  of  the 
"way  a  fine  avenue  of  banyan  trees.  Driving  to  the  post-office, 
I  find  they  do  not  expect  a  steamboat  for  a  week  ;  then  to  the 
steamboat  agency  where  they  said  the  same ;  so  I  engaged  a 
transit  coach  for  to-morrow  to  Benares. 

I  luckily  found  there  was  a  lodging  house,  kept  by  a  pro- 
digiously fat  old  woman,  who  had  already  arranged  my  things 
which  I  had  sent  on  from  the  post-office,  she  taking  it  for  granted 


UNPROFESSIONAL   ADVICE.  327 

I  sliould  and  must  be  accommodated.  The  landlady  remarked, 
"  The  gentlemen  were  very  kind  to  send  you  here.  I've  found 
it  a  hard  world  since  my  husband  died,  but  thank  God  I've 
managed  to  get  along."  I  thought  from  her  flourishing  condi- 
tion she  looks  as  if  matters  were  thriving,  or  certainly  that  care 
did  not  weigh  heavily  on  her.  She  then  continued  to  tell  her 
terms,  and  the  nice  accommodations,  and  what  I'd  |)lease  have 
for  tiffin,  dinner,  etc.  I  interrupted  her  by  sundr}^  affirmations, 
and  inquired  if  there  was  church.  She  seemed  doubtful,  said 
one  service  was  over,  and  thought  there  was  another  in  the 
evening  ;  so  ordered  my  dinner  earlier,  "  most  decidedly,  sir." 

In  the  midst  of  my  tiffin  my  sense  of  dignity  was  greatly 
shocked.  I,  who  was  looked  upon  as  a  "Burra  Sahib"  at  all 
the  bungalows,  an  engineer,  or  probably  a  "Calcutta  Sahib"  (a 
collector),  or  some  other  civilian  (the  officers  most  respected  by 
the  natives  from  having  power  to  j)unish  them)  of  rank,  by  my 
landlady  coming  in  and  very  abruptly  asking  if  I  was  connected 
with  the  law,  for  I  looked  so.  I  was  obliged  to  "  own  up,"  and 
told  her  I  was  an  American.  I  soon  found  I  had  unfortunately 
sprung  a  mine,  for  she  nearly  overwhelmed  me  with  a  history  of 
her  poor  dear  father,  who  had  "  shuffled  off  this  mortal  coil " 
some  fifty  years  before,  but  had  once  lived  in  New  York,  bore 
the  name  of  Moncrief,  and  was  of  a  very,  very  ancient  Scottish 
family. 

After  a  long  dissertation  on  their  genealogy,  she  returned  to 
the  law,  and  wanted  advice ;  so  I  gave  her  the  best  I  could, 
which  was  to  avoid  all  law  if  possible.  It  was  unprofessional,  I 
know — but  candid. 

In  the  evening  to  the  church,  a  fine  large  one.  This  place, 
being  the  military  station  of  the  Behar  district,  has  several  regi- 
ments. To-morrow  morning  I  shall  be  obliged  to  retrace  my 
steps  some  eighty  miles,  which  I  regret  for  the  double  reason, 
it  will  occupy  two  days  longer,  and  I  wished  to  see  one  or  two 
places  on  the  river.  Below  this  there  is  very  little  of  interest, 
and  the  sail  horribly  tedious,  occupying  sixteen  days  from  Cal- 


328  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

cutta  by  steam,  and  only  two  places  to  be  seen,  Moorsbaclabad, 
the  former  native  capital  of  Bengal,  and  Mongliyr.  About 
eiglity  years  ago  tlie  latter  was  an  important  military  station. 

Above  is  Buxar,  wliere  is  one  of  the  principal  government 
studs  for  raising  horses  for  cavalry,  etc.,  also  celebrated  for  a 
battle  that  confirmed  the  English  in  possession  of  Bengal  and 
Behar.  Then  Ghazeepore,  a  military  station,  where  is  an  old 
palace  of  the  Rajah  Cossim  Ali,  once  an  Indian  notability,  and 
the  cenotaph  of  Lord  Cornwallis,  and  also  celebrated  for  its 
manufacture  of  rose  water. 

Oct.  Zlst^  Neman ADONG  Bungaloay. — Packed  up  and  off  this 
morning,  but  first  was  entertained  by  my  landlady  with  the 
perils  from  rol^bers,  thugs,  etc.  I  greatly  relieved  her  fears  by 
assuring  her  that  part  of  my  luggage  consisted  of  a  gun  and 
rifle  with  a  "  six-shooter"  all  ready  to  present  its  compliments  to 
such  gentr}'.  Then  jogged  on  slowly  to  this  place,  with  nothing 
except  very  considerable  discomfort  from  the  sun,  an  infliction 
you  would  doubtless  willingly  consent  to  about  the  time  you 
receive  this. 

Kov.  2d,  SASSERAiE  Bungalow. — Yesterday  and  part  of 
to-day  enjoying  the  slow  and  noisy  travel  of  a  Coolie  gang  to 
drag  me.  At  Sheergotty  I  changed  for  horses,  and  five  miles 
an  hour  instead  of  two !  Then  crossed  the  Boodia  river.  At 
three  crossed  the  Soane,  now  except  the  three  beds  is  a  sand 
bank.  One  of  the  beds  is  bare  except  a  few  inches  of  water, 
another  fordable,  the  third  a  fervj,  the  whole  taking  three  hours 
to  cross  it  though  onl}-  about  a  mile  and  a  half  wide. 

Near  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  supposed  to  have  stood  Pali- 
bothra,  the  capital  of  the  great  king  Chandragupta,  king  of 
Magadi,  who  fought  a  great  battle  with  Seleucus,  the  most  dis- 
tinguished of  the  generals  of  Alexander  the  Great.  Allahabad 
is  supposed  by  some  to  have  been  the  place,  but  certain  ruins 
lately  discovered  here  have  settled  the  question.      At  seven  I 


BENAKES.  829 

readied  this  bungalow,  when  just  as  I  was  preparing  to  make 
myself  comfortable  after  the  tedious  ride,  and  things  in  beautiful 
confusion,  when  a  young  officer  came  in  with  Mr.  Colver's  com- 
pliments (he  is  the  newly -appointed  Governor  of  the  Northwest 
Provinces)  and  a  request  that  I  would  join  him  at  dinner  in  his 
tent,  and  that  it  was  all  read}'. 

I  promptly  accepted,  and  got  myself  ready  in  few  minutes. 

I  found  him  a  pleasant  person,  as  was  his  aide-de-camp — Lieut. 
Stewart.  The  repast  consisted  of  a  handsome  European  dinner 
and  also  a  handsome  native  one,  a  compliment  from  the  Eajah  of 
tlie  district  to  the  Governor.  After  dinner  we  all  started  off 
again,  I  with  horses  and  to  be  at  Benares  to-morrow,  the 
Governor  with  Coolies  and  heavy  train  for  the  day  after.  Near 
this  is  a  fine  tomb  of  Shah  Shau — one  of  the  last  kings  of  Ben- 
gal, Avho  drove  the  Emperor  of  Delhi  from  his  throne  for  a  short 
time,  and  forced  him  to  take  refuge  in  Cashmere,  or  Afghanistan, 
I  forget  which. 

Nov.  od,  Bexares. — I  reached  the  river  at  nine.  The  entire 
distance  to  this  place,  the  road  has  been  admirable,  made  of  what 
they  call  "  kunka."  It  is  graded  and  this  yellow,  clayish-looking 
material  is  put  on,  then  wet  and  pounded,  and  as  it  becomes  hard 
is  as  smooth  as  a  floor.  I  saw  almost  hourly,  people  going  to 
market  with  provisions  on  horses  or  oxen.  Tall,  savage-looking 
fellows,  armed  with  sword  and  spear,  perhaps  the  turbulent 
owners  of  some  small  patch  of  land,  and  almost  bursting  with 
the  excess  of  dignified  importance  as  he  swaggered  along  or 
caracoled  his  horse.  The  dtlk  horses  are  an  odd  set  of  ugly 
brutes — ever}^  one  balks:  the  onl}^  difference  is  in  the  number  ot 
times,  or  length  of  time  it  takes  to  get  him  off  again.  I  will  send 
you  a  sketch  of  "  a  ballc  "  with  the  native  manner  of  starting 
him  off,  all  shouting  "  chullo,  chullo  "  (go  along),  at  the  top  of 
their  lungs. 

The  city  being  on  the  east  bank,  had  a  very  fine  view,  and 
without  exception  is  the  most  imposing  city  I've  seen  in  India. 


330  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Though  the  chosen  seat  of  Hindooism,  the  lofty  minarets 
of  Anrungzebe's  famous  mosque,  tower  conspicuously  above 
every  other  object.  The  city  forms  an  unbroken  front  of  fine 
buildings  and  ghauts  for  full  four  miles  on  the  river's  banks,  the 
two  being  inseparable,  the  ghauts  being  the  fine  flight  of  steps 
and  terrace  for  religious  bathing,  and  the  buildings,  species  of 
massive  portals,  the  whole  erected  by  devotees,  or  sinners,  as  a 
propitiatory  offering,  as  the  Catholics  have  masses  said  for  their 
souls. 

For  so  large  a  town  there  appear  to  be  very  few  boats.  From 
the  great  sanctity  of  the  city,  and  the  importance  they  attach  to 
bathing  in  the  Ganges  here,  and  the  several  pilgrimages  within  a 
circuit  of  a  few  miles,  there  are  great  numbers  of  people  coming 
and  going  all  the  time.  The  estimate  is,  that  at  least  20,000 
arrive  daily,  and  as  many  more  who  depart.  Most  of  them  make 
pilgrimages  by  land,  but  in  all  kinds  of  ways  according  to  what 
they  deem  the  most  penitential.  Some  measure  their  distance, 
that  is  to  say,  they  lie  down  at  full  length,  mark  the  spot  where 
their  head  reached,  and  lie  down  again  putting  their  feet  at  the 
last  mark,  and  making  a  new  one  where  their  head  reached  this 
time,  and  so  on  until  they  reach  the  holy  city.  As  this  mode  of 
travel  is  sloiv,  it  often  occupies  months.  They  rest  when  they 
get  tired  or  hungry,  and  marking  the  spot  where  they  left  off,  go 
and  eat  or  sleep.  An  acquaintance  here  told  me  he  had  seen  two 
men  making  a  pilgrimage  this  way — one  had  come  700  miles  and 
then  had  400  to  go !  the  other  had  come  300  and  had  as  much 
more  to  do. 

When  I  arrived  at  the  river,  I  found  the  officials  all  in  "full 
fig,"  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  Governor.  I  told  them  he  would 
not  arrive  till  next  day.  They  had  been  waiting  three  hours  in 
the  hot  sun  when  I  came  up.  They  at  once  started  for  home 
without  any  further  news  of  him. 

On  crossing  the  river,  I  found  a  company  of  irregular  cavalry 
or  Siwars  also  awaiting  the  Governor's  arrival.  The  officer  in 
command  finding  that  he  was  not  to  be  here  to-day  they  were 


Sketched  by  the  Author. 


CHUNAU   FORTIiESS. 


See  page  334. 


AN   ENTERPRISING  AMERICAN.  331 

sent  to  tlieir  barracks,  and  started  witb.  their  horses  prancing  and 
plunging,  while  they  sat  like  statues.  All  the  irregular  cavalry 
are  beautiful  riders. 

I  stopped  at  the  Travellers'  Bungalow,  and  after  breakfast  not 
having  any  letters  to  deliver  here,  I  drove  to  Mr.  Hall's  (the  son 
of  a  prominent  lawyer  in  Troy,  who,  after  graduating  at  Harvard 
University  came  to  Calcutta  for  his  health  and  was  shipwrecked 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Hoogly  and  lost  everything,  while  waiting 
for  remittances  from  home,  and  having  a  most  extraordinary 
talent  for  languages  he  learned  Hindoo  and  Persian,  then  con- 
cluded to  remain  and  study  Sanscrit),  His  progress  was  so  rapid 
in  that  he  was  persuaded  to  remain  and  take  a  Professor's  chair 
in  the  new  college  then  being  established  at  Benares,  and  now  is 
professor  of  Sanscrit  in  the  college  here,  with  a  very  widely 
extended  reputation.  He  has  only  been  in  the  country  seven 
years,  and  with  a  knowledge  of  five  languages  of  Europe,  and  the 
classics  to  commence  with,  he  has  now  what  he  calls  a  partial 
knowledge  of  22  languages ;  but  he  means  by  partial,  not  a  criti- 
cal, but  what  ordinary  persons  would  call  a  thorough  knowledge. 
I  am  told  he  is  the  best  Sanscrit  scholar  in  India,  and  perhaps 
in  the  world,  as  they  have  so  much  better  opportunities  of  per- 
fecting themselves  here  than  in  Europe.     The  head  of  the  college 

is  so  jealous  of  H 's  growing  reputation  for  Sanscrit,  and  of 

his  superior  knowledge  in  that  language,  that  he  don't  know 

whether  to  surrender  to  H or  not.    H is  now  in  receipt 

of  $2,500  per  annum  and  in  a  few  weeks  is  to  have  a  new  appoint-' 
ment  that  will  double  it,  with  a  retiring  allowance  after  eleven 
years  more  of  service  of  $2000  per  annum — a  nice  country  to 
work  for. 

And  now  having  finished  my  digression  to  give  you  an  account 
of  this  enterprising  countryman  of  ours,  I  will  proceed.  Arriving 
at  his  house  I  sent  in  my  card,  and  found  him  a  thorousrh  Ame- 
rican  in  appearance  save  the  moustache,  which,  as  I  wear  one 
myself,  Pll  say  nothing  about.  He  received  me  in  a  most 
friendly  manner,  and  insisted  upon  my  removing  to  his  bun- 


332  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

galow,  and  with  that  drove  me  to  the  dak  bungalow  and  ordered 
my  things  to  his  house;  where  I  found  him  luxuriating  in 
bachelor  style,  with  books,  pipes,  cats,  and  dogs ;  the  first  laid 
where  convenience  had  suited,  and  the  latter  wandering  about  as 
they  chose.  In  fact  everything  in  what  we  bachelors  term  order^ 
and  you  ladies,  by  some  singular  caprice,  designate  as  disorder — 
but  only  a  slight  misnomer. 

After  a  long  and  amusing  conversation  about  Benares,  and  his 
occupations  of  collecting  literature  for  government,  compiling 
other  facts  for  his  publication,  carrjdng  on  controversies  with 
Sanscrit  scholars  at  Oxford  and  Cambridge,  editing  works, 
scribbling  for  newspapers  and  pamphlets,  and  sometimes  regu- 
larly editing  the  paper,  studying  languages  of  all  sorts  and  kinds, 
in  flict  a  dabble  in  everything,  a  thorough  American  turn  of 
mind,  we  then  drove  out.  He  called  upon  and  introduced 
me  to  Colonel  Lane,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  officers  in 
India.  Here  I  saw  Major  Ousely,  a  son  of  Sir  Gore  Ousely,  who 
was  distinguished  for  services  in  Persia  some  years  since ;  he  is 
equally  distinguished  in  the  sporting  way,  having  been  in  at  the 
death  of  300  tigers.     We  then  continued  on  to  the  Deput3'--Col- 

lector's,  a  friend  of  K 's,  a  "  country  born"  or  •'  half  caste," 

who  goes  in  the  best  society  here.  Usually  in  calling  upon 
Europeans,  they  are  obliged  to  leave  their  carriages  at  the  gates. 
We  dined  here.  He  seemed  a  very  nice  person.  Among  other 
amusing  things  he  gave  us  an  account  of  his  first  visit  to  Cal- 
cutta a  few  weeks  since.     The  first  time  he  had  been  in  any  but 

the  up-country  towns  or  cities.     Mr.  W gave  me  some 

singular  petrifactions  found  in  the  Great  Gundik  Eiver.  ISText 
to  his  house  stands  the  house  wdiere  Cherry  was  massacred  in 
the  time  of  the  great  Benares  insurrection  during  Warren  Has- 
tino;s'  Administration, 

Nov.  4. — To-day  the  Governor  arrived,  and  all  the  officials  are 
out  to  "  lick  the  dust,"  or  "  eat  dirt,"  as  the  natives  term  official 
cringing.     Hall  and  I  started  at  daylight  for  the  upper  end  of 


ELEPHANT  EXPERIENCE.  333 

the  city,  wliere  wc  took  a,  boat,  and  floated  down  past  tlie  superb 
ghauts,  a  most  picturesque  sight;  thousands  of  people  in  all 
colors,  costumes,  and  attitudes,  bathing,  praying,  "doing  poojah," 
meditating  (an  important  feature  in  their  religion)  and  sipping 
Ganges  water  to  the  four  corners  of  the  earth  (north,  east,  south, 
aud  west),  and  the  sun.  Others  were  being  shaved,  every  hair 
counting  millions  of  years  of  bliss  in  another  sphere. 

"We  then  stopped  at  the  ghaut  by  the  "  Man  Mandul"  Obser- 
vatory, built  by  Whan  Singh.  It  is  a  singular  aifair  of  great 
size  built  of  stone,  the  various  dials,  arcs,  etc.,  all  being  of  stone 
and  on  a  very  large  scale,  which  renders  them  rather  incon- 
venient for  rapid  operations. 

We  then  dropped  down  the  stream,  stopping  to  see  the  mosque 
built  by  Aurungzebe  from  the  ruins  of  Hindoo  temples  he  had 
destroyed  for  the  purpose.  The  view  I  had  from  the  lofty  mina- 
rets was  most  extensive.  The  city  appears  to  be  principally 
built  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Continued  on,  passing  the  ghaut 
built  by  the  Emperor  of  Delhi,  as  well  as  his  house.  We  stopped 
at  another  ghaut,  and  visited  the  "  Bappee  dome"  and  well, 
where  (on  dit)  the  presiding  deity  of  Benares  jumped  down  when 
the  city  was  besieged  by  the  JVIahommedans.  This  is  a  very 
sacred  place.  Here  they  sip  Ganges  water,  and  throw  down 
flowers  until  the  water  is  fairly  putrid.  Then  the  "  Yishwishna," 
or  "Lord  of  all,"  a  temple  with  golden  spire  or  tower,  now  the 
Lena  Porna,  the  ancient  Ceres.  Here  the  devotees  prostrated 
themselves  and  touched  all  sides  of  their  face,  nose,  and  forehead. 
After  which  a  high  priest  took  us  into  his  house ;  the  fellow 
seemed  to  have  made  money  in  his  profession,  judging  from  the 
furniture. 

We  then  walked  to  the  square  where  the  Eajah  of  Benares' 

(he  and  Hall  are  great  friends)  elephant  met  us,  (H having 

written  to  the  Rajah  for  it),  most  of  the  streets  being  too  narrow 
for  the  buggy.  This  was  my  first  elephant  experience  ;  it  seemed 
as  if  we  should  roll  off  every  moment  from  the  long  rolling  gait 
of  the  animal.     Besides  which  projecting  eaves  were  sadly  in  the 


834  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

way  of  our  craniums  ;  however  we  readied  home  safely  by  good 
luck.  After  breakfast,  where  we  had  a  most  delicious  fruit  I've 
failed  to  speak  of  before,  the  custard  apple,  about  the  size  of  a 
large  pear.  The  fruit  is  covered  with  a  thick  skin  for  a  fruit 
of  that  kind.  The  meat  is  soft  and  most  luscious.  There 
are  two  quite  different  kinds,  one  grows  on  the  west  side  of 
India,  the  other  here.  After  breakfast  I  went  to  the  river 
and  in  floating  down,  I  made  some  sketches  of  the  city  and 
ghauts. 

This  evening  dined  with  some  very  nice  people,  a  Mr.  K 

and  wife — he  has  travelled  and  seen  much  of  the  world ;  losing  his 
fortune  he  took  orders.  Then  home  and  took  a  palanquin  for 
Chunar — the  fortress  in  which  Warren  Hastings  took  refuge 
when  he  fled  from  the  Benares  insurrection. 

Nov.  5,  Chunar. — I  reached  the  banks  of  the  Ganges  at  six 
this  morning.  Last  night,  happening  to  wake,  I  found  my 
bearers  had  planted  me  somewhere  in  the  road,  while  they  sat 
down  for  a  smoke,  and  to  eat.  I  stopped  on  the  bank  an  hour  to 
sketch  the  fort,  etc.,  then  crossed  the  river  and  to  Lieutenant 

W 's  house,  saw  him,  and  after  a  few  minutes'  conversation 

I  retired  to  make  my  toilet,  by  which  time   Mrs.  W 

appeared.  Without  being  handsome  she  is  a  pleasant  person. 
I  spent  the  morning  in  the  house,  and  this  afternoon  drove  to  see 
the  fort,  whose  base  is  washed  by  water  on  three  sides. 

The  place  is  in  the  form  of  a  foot,  and  the  native  tradition  is, 
one  of  the  gods  stepping  from  the  mountains  to  Cape  Cormoran, 
rested  his  foot  here.  There  are  a  number  of  invalids  here,  this 
being  one  of  their  resorts.  The  works  are  very  strong,  and  it 
made  a  fine  defence  before  taken.  Then  on  to  see  two  beautiful 
tombs,  one  erected  by  Eajah  Suleiman  to  his  wife,  the  other  to 
the  Rajah  himself,  built  by  his  subjects  as  a  testimonial  of  regard. 
The  tombs  have  nothing  very  beautiful  about  them,  but  the  court 
around,  which  is  150  feet  square,  has  a  wall  about  eight  feet  high : 
and  four  of  eight  feet  in  height,  form  two  panels  of  beautiful 


BUDDHIST  CONFESSIONS   OF   FAITH.  835 

open  stone  work.  The  portal  where  the  rich  men  sit  and  talk, 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  I  have  ever  seen,  the  entire  building 
being  a  mass  of  sculpture  almost  from  turret  to  foundation-stone 
with  beautiful  verandahs  also  of  stone  work.  Then  home  and 
after  dinner  I  shall  return  to  Benares  about  thirteen  miles  dis- 
tant. 

The  cholera  made  terrible  havoc  in  this,  as  in  most  other  parts 
of  the  country  last  summer.  In  Benares  the  native  people  burnt 
their  dead,  and  they  are  said  to  have  amounted  io  at  least  1,200 
a  day  !  In  1-1  days  they  lost  11  per  cent,  of  the  European  popu- 
lation !  In  Calcutta  it  was  bad  enough,  and  particularly  fatal  to 
the  American  captains,  every  one  I  believe  died,  and  new  cap- 
tains took  the  ships  home,  either  mates  were  obliged  to  act  as 
captains,  or  new  captains  were  obtained.  I  quite  forgot  to  men- 
tion the  pilot  of  the  Aristides  told  me  that  an  American  ship, 
from  the  superiority  of  her  rig,  blocks,  and  other  tackle,  was  easier 
to  manage  when  not  more  than  half  manned,  than  an  EDglish  ship 
with  a  full  crew. 

Nov.  6th^  Benares. — I  started  last  night  at  nine  and  reached 

this  at  two,  when  I  was  very  soon  stowed  in  my  bed  at  H 's. 

This  morning  I  rode  out  to  see  the  "Loci-Kedudon,"  or  jumping 
place,  so  called  from  some  nonsensical  tradition.  There  are  two 
remains  of  Bhuddist  towers.  The  one  a  mound  with  a  Saracenic 
tomb,  the  other,  the  more  perfect,  is  hexagonal,  the  lower  half  in 
many  parts  quite  perfect,  the  upper  part  has  lost  its  brown  stone 
coating,  and  exhibits  the  brickwork  with  hundreds  of  kiln  marks 
on  the  bricks.  There  are  some  underground  chambers,  and  the 
work  seems  not  to  have  been  finished — so  the  savans  decide. 

On  excavating  at  its  base,  a  few  years  since,  a  vase  with  more 
than  five  hundred  Bhuddist  "confessions  of  faith"  were  disco- 
vered.    Several  were  given  to  H who  gave  me  one.     The 

confession  is  stamped  in  the  form  of  a  seal  on  damp  clay,  then 
baked  hard  and  enclosed  in  a  case  of  fresh  damp  clay  which  is 
also  baked.     Some  of  them  were  broken  open,  and  they  found  the 


336  FROM  WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

confession  perfect.  Some  inscriptions  found  here,  declare  these 
mounds  to  be  now  about  a  thousand  years  old. 

Then  home  and  to  the  "kin-kob"  manufactory  where  they 
make  the  beautiful  silver  and  gold  cloths.  I  saw  several  in  the 
looms,  exquisitely  beautiful.  They  were  about  five  feet  wide 
and  eight  or  nine  yards  long — these  were  worth  $175 — others  not 
quite  so  handsome  $150 — one  represented  the  Punjaub  war,  but 
it  was  not  well  done.  I  saw  others  not  quite  as  handsome,  to  be 
used  by  the  less  wealthy  for  robes — ^the  more  valuable  kinds  are 
used  by  the  Eajahs.  I  should  like  much  to  have  a  jDiece,  but 
they  work  them  all  into  such  large  pieces  and  would  not  cut 
them,  and  a  whole  piece  is  rather  expensive  when  65  per  cent,  is 
added  by  exchanges  and  duties.  At  home  I  found  some  pat- 
terns of  dresses  much  admired  by  ladies  in  England,  a  light  mate- 
rial of  silk  and  linen,  embroidered  with  gold  or  silver  thread  in 
spots  or  small  figures.  It  was  first  known  in  England  at  the 
Exhibition,  where  it  created  more  sensation  than  the  "  kin-kobs," 
which  are  rivalled  by  the  French  and  Swiss,  whereas  this  sur- 
passed all  other  manufactures,  and  is  thought  so  highly  of,  that 
even  the  Queen  sends  for  it.  A  lady  selected  two  dresses  for  me 
with  the  head  scarfs.  I  am  told  in  the  United  States  the}-  are 
not  known,  and  only  within  two  years  past  in  England,  and  now 

only  sent  on  private  orders  by  friends.     This  afternoon  II 

sent  a  note  to  the  Eajah  of  Benares  (they  being  very  intimate) 
asking  permission  to  take  me  to  see  him,  and  written  in  the  true 
Eastern  style  of  hyperbolic  phrases,  "  King  of  kings,  light  of  the 
world,"  etc.,  etc.  In  a  short  time  an  answer  came,  couched  in 
much  the  same  style,  beginning  in  this  way,  "  The  Eajah,  etc., 
sends  many  compliments  to  Mr.  Hall,  endowed  with  all  the 
accomplishments  and  virtues,  master  of  ancient  and  modern  lore, 
and  inhabitant  of  the  old  and  new  world,  etc.,  would  be  most 
happy  to  see"  me,  etc. 

This  afternoon  I  visited  the  college,  a  very  pretty  Gothic  struc- 
ture, but  badly  built,  and  entirely  unsuited  to  the  purpose.  They 
have  only  a  few  scholars,  but  the  principal  object  is  to  furnish 


THE   RAJAH   OF   BENARES.  337 

professors.    H and  the  head  of  the  college  teach  Hindoos 

the  Sanscrit.  I  think  that  they  doubt  of  its  utility.  They  have 
some  very  valuable  Sanscrit  MSS.  here,  and  as  yet  very  little 

else,  the  building  and  institution  being  new.     H dined 

with  the  Governor  last  evening  by  invitation.  The  Governor 
wrote  from  the  Dak  Bungalow  to  the  Commissioner  with  whom 
he  is  staying,  to  invite  me  to  his  levee  and  dinner,  but  owing  to 

some  mistake  the  invitation  did  not  get  to  H 's  house  until 

after  I  had  gone  to  Chunar,  so  he  answered  it  for  me.     H 

said  I  had  made  a  wonderful  impression  on  the  Governor.  (I 
think  he  must  be  easily  pleased.)  He  inquired  most  particularly 
about  me. 

This  evening  we  stopped  for  an  hour  or  two  at  the  Rajah's. 
He  is  not  the  legitimate  occupant  of  the  throne,  but  a  puppet  of 
the  Government.  He  is  a  very  fine  looking  man,  but  prema- 
turely old  from  excesses.  He  is  wealthy  and  lives  in  much  style. 
His  house  is  furnished  beautifully,  and  in  the  European  manner, 
and  with  many  paintings.  But  with  true  native  taste  everything 
is  odd,  curious,  or  new.  A  few  days  since  a  river  pedlar  (jDcdlars 
who  move  from  place  to  place  in  boats  with  their  wares)  stopped 
here,  having  among  his  stock  in  trade  a  number  of  mecha- 
nical clocks,  boxes,  rope-dancers,  and  pictures,  with  everything 
moving  by  machinery,  musical  boxes,  etc.  The  Eajah  was  so 
delighted  with  them,  he  bought  the  man  out.  Besides  all  these 
other  things,  he  has  a  miniature  telegraph  and  globes.  On  the 
latter  he  desired  me  to  show  him  where  America  was  and  the 
part  we  came  from.  As  the  country  seemed  so  much  larger  than 
England  or  India,  he  probably  doubted  my  veracity. 

Then  for  my  special  benefit  the  Rajah  ordered  in  some  nautch 
girls,  who  danced  and  sung ;  two  of  whom  were  from  Peshawur. 
They  sung  one  of  Hafiz's  songs  while  dancing.  Part  of  the  air  was 
very  pretty,  but  the  style  of  singing  not  pleasing.  The  dancing 
was  graceful,  but  not  to  my  taste,  although  perfectly  chaste,  con- 
sisting entirely  of  graceful,  gliding  movements,  the  long  dress 
quite  covering  the  feet.     After  the  women  had  finished,  a  man 

22 


338  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

danced ; — then  two  musicians  played  for  us,  one  on  a  very  cele- 
brated instrument,  the  "vina,"  a  bar  with  two  gourd-like  bulbs 
and  eight  strings ;  one  bulb  resting  on  the  lap,  the  other  on  the 
shoulder.  The  music  is  like  the  guitar,  though  not  with  as  much 
depth  of  tone. 

The  whole  affair  was  a  regular  Eastern  "  durbar."  The  Eajah 
was  dressed  in  robes  of  rich  "kin-kobs,"  and  a  sort  of  crown. 
The  others  of  his  suite,  and  wealthy  natives  who  came  in  (he 
having  sent  for  them  to  be  present  on  the  occasion),  wore  Cash- 
mere shawls,  and  turbans.  They  were  distributed  about  the 
rooms  according  to  rank,  and  sitting  on  chairs  or  floor  as  suited 
their  fancy.  "We  sat  on  sofas.  The  Eajah  showed  us  two  little 
bark  stands,  with  colored  porcupine  quills  from  Niagara,  which 
he  prized  very  highly. 

To-morrow  I  start  northward.  Benares  is  a  rather  pleasant 
station,  large  though  without  much  to  make  it  very  agreeable  to 
residents.  It  is  the  great  seat  of  native  learning  and  missionary 
converts,  and  purely  an  English  missionary  station,  mostly  of 
Baptist  and  other  independent  denominations. 

Nov.  7th,  Allahabad. — I  started  last  night  at  eleven  by 
transit.  The  steamers  come  up  as  flir  as  this,  but  are  very 
tedious,  and  only  Merzapore  to  be  seen,  which,  as  far  as  business 
goes,  is  the  most  flourishing  native  town  in  India.  Here  natives 
are  easily  found  who  will  embark  $150,000  in  a  single  speculation. 
Its  carpets  are  quite  celebrated  all  through  India.  I  reached 
Allahabad,  or  rather  the  river  Ganges,  at  eleven,  for  we  were 
two  hours  in  crossing.  I've  seen  nothing  on  the  way  either 
interesting  or  curious,  except  a  harrow  whicli  may  interest  father, 
he  being  an  experimental  agriculturist.  It  was  a  heavy  beam 
with  four  oxen  abreast  attached  to  it,  and  two  men  standing  on 
the  beam  to  give  it  weight,  and  steadying  themselves  by  leaning 
on  the  oxen. 

Allahabad  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna, 
and  the  ancient  palace  fort  of  Akbar  at  the  very  point.     The 


ALLAHABAD.  339 

palace  was  formerly  very  magnificent.  The  name  of  tlie  town 
implies  "Abode  of  God,"  a  title  given  by  the  Mahommedan  con- 
querors in  place  of  the  former  Hindoo  name,  a  habit  with  these 
warriors.  Akbar  built  this  once  fine  palace  fortress.  Being  at 
the  junction  of  the  Jumna  and  Ganges,  it  is  held  as  a  very  sacred 
place  by  the  Hindoos.  Formerly  great  numbers  of  children 
were  sacrificed  in  performance  of  vows  made  by  the  parents  when 
sick,  and  also  suicides.  The  poor  wretches  fancying  they  had 
by  expiations  removed  all  their  sins,  thought  they  would  attain 
to  greater  happiness  if  they  died  here  and  under  such  circum- 
stances, than  if  they  lived  and  died  elsewhere.  But  that  as  well  as 
infanticide  have  been  declared  crimes  by  the  government,  and  the 
aiders  and  abettors  are  severely  punished  if  caught  or  found  out. 

The  cantonments  are  very  extensive,  and  for  beauty  of  undu- 
lating scenery  are  said  not  to  be  surpassed  in  India.  I  was 
particularly  struck  with  its  appearance  as  I  approached  it.  The 
neighboring  district  of  Bundelkund  is  famous  for  its  diamonds. 
The  river  is  spanned  by  a  bridge  of  boats.  The  large  sand  flat 
opposite  the  city,  is  filled  in  the  winter  season  with  the  tents  of 
pious  Hindoos,  who  come  to  bathe.  At  this  season  of  the  year  is 
a  famous  Hindoo  festival.  Every  pilgrim  gets  his  head  shaved, 
and  allowing  the  hairs  to  fall  into  the  Ganges,  receives  a  million 
years  of  bliss  for  each.  This  with  Benares  and  Gya  are  the 
great  places  of  pilgrimage  in  this  part  of  India. 

I  stopped  at  the  bungalow,  and  drove  to  Mr.  Shaw's,  one  of 

H 's  numerous  acquaintances,  and  to  whom  he  gave  me 

a  letter.  He  is  an  American  missionary ;  both  he  and  his  wife 
are  very  nice  people.  He  wished  me  to  have  my  things  sent  to 
his  house,  and  stay  there  while  in  this  place.  But  as  I  am  only 
here  for  a  day  I  declined.  He  drove  me  to  Mr.  Hay's,  another 
American  missionary,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter  from  an  English 
officer  I  met  at  Singapore.  I  spent  the  evening  here,  and  to- 
morrow I  am  to  breakfast  with  Mr.  Shaw  and  dine  with  Mr. 

Hay.     Mr.  S then  drove  me  through  the  cantonment  and 

parade  ground,  and  the  fashionable  drive  called  the  "  Mall." 


34:0  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

There  are  many  remains  in  and  about  tlie  city,  attesting  its 

former  grandeur.     To-day  I  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  F 

(Mrs,  A 's  brother),  informing  me  I  can  go  into  Cashmere. 

So,  hurrah  for  good  luck !  Send  the  orders  for  shawls,  but 
don't  all  speak  at  once. 

Nov.  8th. — At  daylight  this  morning  Mr.  S called,  and 

drove  me  out  to  see  a  famous  caravanserai,  built  by  Sultan 
Khosroo,  with  fine  quadrangle  and  four  Grothic  gateways,  now 
going  to  ruin.  There  are  three  tombs  in  a  large  garden,  with 
much  of  their  stonework  finely  sculptured.  These  too,  are  going 
to  ruin.  The  entire  arrangement  of  garden  and  tombs  is  very 
picturesque.  Then  to  his  house  and  breakfasted.  He  showed  me 
the  school,  which  is  his  particular  charge,  and  being  a  practical 
man,  I  think  he  will  make  considerable  out  of  his  scholars. 

It  is  striking  to  see  the  difference  of  energy  displayed  between 
the  English  and  American  establishments.  One  American  is  as 
good  as  three  or  four  English,  and  this  is  the  character  uni- 
versally given  me  of  them  by  the  English,  military  and  civil. 

At  twelve  Mr.  Hay  called  and  took  me  to  the  fort,  introducing 

me  to  Captain  G ,  a  friend  of  his,  and  the  ojficer  in  charge. 

They  took  me  through  every  part.  Former  palace  rooms  and 
durbar  halls  are  converted  into  military  store-rooms.  The  fort 
is  now  a  depot  or  magazine  of  arms  of  all  descriptions.  Under 
the  fort  are  extensive  catacombs.  There  are  usually  two  or 
more  regiments  of  infantry  here,  besides  a  small  force  of  artillery. 

Captain  C said,  in  the  hot  season,  with  all  the  doors  and 

windows  closed,  and  the  stone  floors  constantly  sprinkled,  that 
the  thermometer  rarely  went  below  108°  and  110,° 

As  we  went  out  we  stopped  to  descend  into  the  entrance  of 
the  infernal  regions.  A  cavern  built  by  the  Bhuddists  for  some 
of  the  mysteries  of  their  religion  ;  part  of  the  arrangement  is  the 
trunk  of  a  tree — a  panacea  for  all  diseases.  It  never  lives  or  dies 
according  to  the  accounts  of  the  natives.  The  place  is  filled 
with  idols,  and  possesses  great  sanctity.     Then  to  Mr.  Hay's 


MISSIONARY  LIFE   IN   INDIA.  341 

house  where  I  dined..  They  live  very  comfortably,  as  do  all  the 
missionaries ;  but  at  the  best  it  is  a  hard  life,  and  they  are  much 
"worse  off  than  with  less  comfort  at  home ;  away  from  family 
and  friends,  combating  all  kinds  of  opposition,  injuring  the 
health  of  themselves  and  families,  and  enduring  great — in 
fact,  inconceivable  discomfort  from  the  climate  much  of  the 
year.  With  all  sorts  of  appliances  the  thermometer  won't  go 
down  below  100°  or  110°.  They  complain  that  their  friends 
fancy  they  live  luxuriantly  with  so  many  servants,  a  thing  not 
possible  to  be  comprehended  in  the  United  States.  Every 
bachelor  must  positively  have  nine  servants,  every  child  must 
have  one  or  two,  and  every  horse  two,  a  groom  and  grass-cutter. 
The  same  servant  won't  set  a  table  and  sweep  a  floor,  neither 
will  he  carry  a  package  of  any  size.  Nor  can  one  of  the  three 
mentioned,  wait  upon  table,  or  of  the  four  cook,  or  of  the  five 
touch  a  horse,  or  of  the  six  wash,  or  of  the  seven  sew,  etc. 
Every  ordinary  private  family  keeps  from  fifteen  to  forty. 

Mr.  Hay  has  charge  of  the  mission  press,  and  besides  the 
necessary  business  for  the  mission,  he  does  much  work  for 
government.  This  is  one  of  the  large  American  stations,  and 
where  they  have  met  with  much  success.  He  took  me  through 
the  printing  establishment,  and  showed  me  some  of  his  cleverest 
converts,  who  belong  to  the  printing  establishment.  He  then  gave 
me  four  or  five  letters  to  various  friends.  This  place  being  at 
the  junction  of  two  large  rivers,  is  considered  very  healthy. 
This  is  the  permanent  station  of  a  court  composed  of  a  body  of 
judges,  who  make  circuits  during  certain  months,  pitching  a 
tent  near  a  large  town,  where  they  hold  the  court,  a  much  more 
agreeable  place  to  a  native  than  a  house  where  he  gets  frightened. 
This  evening  I  shall  start  for  Cawnpore. 

Nov.  9ih,  Cawnpore.— I  started  last  evening  at  six,  very  cold 
and  dusty,  a  dull  uninteresting  road,  and  reached  this  place  early 
this  morning  and  am  now  600  miles  north  of  Calcutta.  Driving 
first  to  the  Post  Office  to  mail  some  letters  for  London,  and  some 


342  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

letters  of  introduction  to  people  here,  tlien  to  Dr.  A 's,  a 

friend  of  H 's  and  of  all  the  Americans  here.   H had 

given  me  a  letter  to  him.  He  is  a  Scot  and  a  very  estimable 
person.     His  house  is  pleasantly  situated  near  the  river. 

This  place  was  formerly  a  frontier  station,  and  the  headquarters 
of  General  Lake  during  the  wars  in  this  part  of  the  country  forty 
years  ago.  Now  Peshawur  has  taken  its  place,  and  perhaps  in 
forty  years  more  Cabul  or  Teheran.  Consequently  it  is  nearly 
deserted  of  troops.  It  is  spread  over  a  vast  extent  of  ground. 
I  have  only  seen  part  as  yet,  though  I  made  a  long  circuit  in 
coming  in ;  and,  I  believe,  there  is  but  little  to  see  here. 

To-morrow  I  expect  to  start  for  Lucknow,  the  capital  of 
Oude,  which  has  occupied  so  much  attention  during  the  various 
governments  in  India,  being  always  intriguing  and  restless. 

Nov.  lOlh. — This  morning  Dr.  A drove  me  through  the 

cantonments  which  lies  for  several  miles  along  the  river — this 
being  the  most  extended  station  in  India.  The  gardens  are  among 
the  largest  and  finest  in  India.  The  bazaars  are  among  the 
best,  while  its  European  and  native  shops  afford  the  ladies  every 
facility  for  the  mode  a  la  Paris,  and  the  jewellers  are  said  to  be 
scarce  inferior  to  those  of  Delhi.  One  of  the  regiments  stationed 
here,  the  70th  Queen's,  lost  last  summer  by  the  cholera  one-third 
of  its  men. 

This  evening  Dr.  A had  a  small  dinner  party,  which 

was  Yerj  pleasant,  though  the  ladies  were  not  surpassingly  beau- 
tiful." 

*  It  Avas  in  the  capture  of  this  town  after  the  horrid  massacre  and  unmen- 
tionable atrocities  committed  on  defenceless  women  by  that  fiend  Nena  Sahib 
and  his  Satanic  horde  that  the  gallant  Havelock  greatly  distinguished  himself — 
and  before  it  that  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  died.  All  the  environs  of  this  place 
as  well  as  those  of  Allahabad,  and,  in  fact,  the  country  for  many  miles  in  circuit, 
is  now  historic  ground,  where  hundreds  of  Englishmen,  women,  and  children^ 
have  been  cruelly  massacred  by  treacherous,  cowardly  Sepoys,  who  have  since 
been  so  deservedly  sacrificed  in  thousands  by  the  avenging  hands  of  indignant 


EECEPTIOX   BY   COLONEL   SLEEMAN.  343 

This  morning  I  was  off  for  this  place  by  sunrise.  I  had  con- 
siderable difficulty  in  crossing  the  river,  and  then  on  through  a 
level  uninteresting  country  for  57  miles,  reaching  the  town  by 
half-past  two.  After  a  long  drive  through  the  suburbs,  etc.,  (for 
the  place  covers  a  great  extent  of  ground)  I  reached  the  Post 
Office,  where  I  found  a  Siwar  waiting  for  me  with  a  most  cordial 
note  from  Colonel  Sleeman,  "the  Eesident,"  stating  that  he  had 
sent  a  carriage  to  meet  me,  and  take  me  to  his  bungalow ;  that 
for  the  present,  during  the  warm  weather,  he  was  not  living  at 
the  "Residency,"  but  out  at  the  cantonment,  and  though  his 
house  was  full,  he  had  pitched  a  tent  for  me  in  front  of  his  door, 
where  he  would  try  and  make  me  as  comfortable  as  j)ossible,  and 
hoped  I  would  stay  as  long  as  my  time  would  allow,  having  come 
in  the  best  possible  season,  etc.  So  I  was  soon  in  the  carriage  and 
off  "en  prince "  with  guards,  postilion,  and  running  footmen ; 
everybody  salaaming  as  we  passed  as  if  I  was  the  Resident  him- 
self instead  of  a  plain  Yankee  traveller, 

I  found  the  cantonment  about  three  miles  distant,  and  the  tent 
he  had  pitched  for  me,  almost  a  house  in  extent,  with  three  great 
rooms,  and  a  wide  passage-way  all  around  between  the  outer  and 
inner  tent.  In  India  they  use  double  tents,  that  is  to  say,  a  huge 
tent  over  a  moderate-sized  one,  and  thus  protecting  you  from  the 
excessive  heat  of  the  sun.  In  front,  stands  a  sentinel  with  musket 
and  sword;  at  the  rear  another,  while  the  number  of  servants  who 
were  flying  about  taking  care  of  me  and  my  things,  quite  bewil- 
dered me  after  my  late  unostentatious  mode  of  life.  By  the  time 
I  had  got  somewhat  composed,  and  reconciled  to  my  new  estate, 
and  had  made  my  toilet.  Colonel  Sleeman  came  in  to  see  me. 

He  is  a  most  distinguished  and  charming  old  gentleman ;  he 
inquired  if  I  had  everything  comfortable,  but  not  content  with 
my  assurances  that  I  had,  took  a  look  himself,  then  taking  me  to 
his  house  presented  me  to  Mrs.  Sleeman  who  is  a  French  lady 

soldiers,  to  the  manes  of  their  fellow-comrades,  ofBcers,  and  their  defenceless 
wives  and  children  who  have  been  so  foully  murdered,  tortured  by  every 
fiendish  ingenuity,  or  suffered  indignities  worse  than  death. 


344  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

from  Mauritius,  then  to  Major  and  Mrs.  P who  were  stay- 
ing with.  them.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  S and  I  took  a  drive  this 

afternoon  attended  by  a  guard  of  irregular  cavalry.  The  Colonel 
on  account  of  his  position  is  obliged  to  keep  up  grand  style  as 
this  (the  Eesidency  at  Oude)  is  one  of  the  leading  appointments 
in  Bengal,  and  so  always  drives  out  with  four  horses,  and  pos- 
tilions, with  a  guard  of  irregular  cavalry,  besides  his  private  ser- 
vant who  is  armed. 

These  precautions  are  highly  necessary,  as  several  attempts 
have  been  made  to  assassinate  him,  partly  from  his  being  the  man 
who  put  down  Thuggery,  and  also  from  his  unpopularity  with 
the  King  of  Oude,  from  his  trying  to  keep  him  somewhat  within 
the  bounds  of  reason  in  the  management  of  his  province,  which 
he  holds  by  sufferance  and  as  a  puppet  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany, which,  after  it  was  fairly  the  property  of  the  Company  by 
every  right,  placed  him  there  as  a  sop  to  close  the  mouths  of 
those  theoretically  philanthropic  people  in  England,  who  are 
always  crying  out  against  oppression  in  India,  when  they  have 
exhausted  all  other  means  of  creating  popularity,  sympathy,  or 
division  of  party. 

Four  nights  since,  the  last  attempt  was  made  to  assassinate  the 
Colonel,  but  he  was  not  to  be  caught  napping,  he  was  too  old  a 
soldier;  for  besides  a  company  of  infantry  stationed  close  to  his 
house,  guards  at  every  door,  a  Siwar  (irregular  cavalry)  escort 
when  he  drives,  and  a  dozen  guards  armed  to  the  teeth  following 
him  when  he  walks,  he  has  half-a-dozen  bed-rooms  always  pre- 
pared to  sleep  in,  and  never  sleeping  in  the  same  twice  in  suc- 
cession. It  was  in  this  way  he  escaped  assassination,  for  the  fel- 
lows got  into  the  room  he  had  slept  in  the  night  before,  and  not 
finding  him,  were  looking  about  for  his  room  when  the  guards 
discovered  them,  and  then  they  "scuttled"  out  of  the  windows 
and  doors  in  a  hurry. 

The  house  is  of  one  story,  but  very  large,  with  lofty  ceilings. 
This  evening  they  had  several  guests  to  dine.  To-morrow  morn- 
ing I  am  to  go  off  in  the  carriage,  and  servants  with  mc  to  show 


DESCRIPTION   OF   LUCKNOW.  345 

the  sights.  Really  the  cordiality  of  my  reception  has  exceeded 
even  the  kindness  Colonel  Low  assured  me  I  would  receive  from 
Colonel  Sleeman. 

Nov.  llili. — At  daylight  this  morning  I  started  oflp  in  Colonel 

S 's  carriage  for  the  town,  visiting  first  the  Imaunbarali  of 

Mohammed  All  Shah,  the  grandfather  of  the  present  king. 
Then  a  large  tomb  of  one  of  the  kings,  a  museum  or  show  place 
for  every  variety  of  chandeliers  with  pendants  of  all  colors: 
green  glass  tigers  which  are  objects  of  great  wonderment  to  the 
natives.  Small  and  large  railings  of  filigree  work  which  are 
inclosures  with  spires  and  ornaments,  adjuncts  of  Mahommedan 
tombs,  all  covered  with  very  thick  sheets  of  silver.  Then  a 
wooden  horse,  another  astonishing  curiosity  which  I  was  expected 
to  praise  beyond  measure,  curious  old  paintings  by  natives,  one 
or  two  small  tombs,  and  a  bath  not  particularly  beautiful.  After 
all  this  to  the  Imaunbarah  (tomb)  of  Asafed  Dowlah,  the  great- 
great  uncle  of  the  present  king,  Saadut  Ali  Khan.  Asafed  Dow- 
lah had  no  son,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  brother  Saadut  Ali. 

Col.  Sleeman,  who  is  probably  the  best  informed  of  any  maa 
in  India  in  the  history  of  the  country,  in  its  various  ramifications, 
gave  me  this  genealogical  account  which  probably  will  not  be 
very  interesting  to  you,  and  yet  I  write  it  as  a  part  of  my  brief 
journal  to  refer  to  at  some  future  time  if  necessary. 

After  breakfast  drove  with  Dr.  F ,  the  surgeon  attached 

to  the  Residenc}^,  to  the  city,  where  I  had  a  very  beautiful  view 
from  the  top  of  the  "  Residenc}^,"  which  is  a  fine,  large,  and  impos- 
ing building.  The  town  is  bordered  by  the  Goomte  river,  which 
is  spanned  by  a  fine  iron  bridge ;  the  view  of  the  city  is  beyond 
exception  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  the  East — only  rivalled 
by  Benares  of  all  I  have  seen  east  of  Cairo.  It  is  a  view  so  purely 
oriental,  it  is  impossible  for  one  who  has  not  been  in  the  East  to 
realize  it,  the  numbers  of  palaces,  public  buildings,  domes,  mina- 
rets of  temples  and  mosques,  with  that  dream-like  halo  encircling 
it — an  oriental  sky  and  atmosphere ! 


346  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

Leaving  the  carriage,  we  mounted  an  elephant,  and  the  Doctor 
made  a  short  round  of  business,  when  he  took  me  to  the  king's 
Observatory^,  erected  at  great  expense,  and  now  going  fast  to 
ruin. 

This  afternoon  Major,  Mrs.  P ,  and  I  drove  out;  as  we 

were  coming  out  of  the  house  the  king's  prime  minister  called 

to  see  Colonel  S on  business — he  wore  a  sort  of  coronet. 

We  heard  the  band  play,  there  being  a  place  here,  as  iu  every 
station,  where  the  fashion  of  the  cantonment  meet  to  hear  the 

music  and  discuss  each  other.     This  evening  Colonel  S 

had  a  large  dinner  party. 

Nov.  13. — Colonel  S arranged  this   morning  that  Dr. 

F should  take  me  to  visit  the  La  Martini5re,  a  branch  of 

a  famous  school  or  college  at  Calcutta,  a  third  is  in  Lyons  ;  they 
were  established  by  General  Claude  Martin,  a  Frenchman,  who 
made  a  large  sum  of  money  in  this  country  as  a  military  adven- 
turer, and  left  it  to  be  invested  in  public  schools  in  the  above 
three  places.  It  took  the  trustees  thirty  years  to  decide  what  his 
intentions  were.  It  was  a  species  of  "  Gerard  will"  aifair.  In 
the  meanwhile  the  money  tripled. 

The  building  he  erected  himseK.  It  is  more  of  a  palace  in  its 
arrangements  than  a  school  or  college ;  the  architecture  I  will 
not  discuss,  tastes  vary  when  a  "composite"  is  attempted.  But 
whatever  the  intentions  of  the  builder  were,  they  have  been  sadly 
disarranged  by  the  addition  of  two  large  wings,  giving  a  much 
more  utilitarian  than  architectural  effect. 

The  view  from  the  top  is  very  fine.  On  every  side  when  you 
see  a  large  building,  to  your  inquiry  of  what  it  is,  you  receive 
the  same  reply,  "  the  King's  Harem,"  known  under  the  various 
names  of  "the  Soul's  Delight,"  "the  Pleasure  of  the  Heart,"  or 
some  other  figurative  term  for  the  contributors  to  this  besotted 
sensualist  king's  pleasures. 

Then  on  to  the  old  palace  ;  as  we  were  returning  to  the  city 
we   were    passed  by  several    elephants,   tigers,    cheeturs,  and 


THE  PALACE  AT  LUCKNOW.  347 

lynxes,  taking  tlieir  morning  airing  on  foot,  led  by  their  native 
keepers — I  did  not  crowd  tbem.  This  palace  is  not  occupied. 
It  contains  the  throne  room,  and  throne,  which  it  would  be  most 
inauspicious  to  move.  It  is  covered  with  gold  and  silver,  orna- 
mented with  precious  stones,  though  not  of  much  real  value. 

The  throne  itself  is  a  raised  platform  of  four  feet  high  and 
perhaps  eight  feet  square.  The  room  is  terribly  dilapidated, 
carpet  ragged,  and  pigeons  flying  about  in  fullest  freedom.  At 
one  end  of  the  room  formerly  stood  a  mirror ;  a  few  years  ago 
during  some  difficulty,  troops  were  brought  in  here  to  charge  the 
people ;  in  the  excitement  of  the  moment  after  the  people  had 
fled  out  of  the  doors  and  windows,  they  seeing  themselves 
reflected  in  the  mirror,  supposed  they  were  a  part  of  the  enemy's 
forces,  and  charged  the  imaginary  foe — with  the  natural  result. 

The  palace  in  former  times  must  have  been  handsome.  Here 
were  held  some  of  the  interviews  with  Clive,  Hastings,  and  other 
notabilities  of  those  days.  This  afternoon  the  Colonel  and  I  took 
a  walk ;  his  information  on  India,  her  history  and  affairs,  is 
immense,  and  added  to  which  his  long  experience  and  good 
judgment,  renders  his  society  most  fascinating — the  treasures  of 
history  combined  with  the  charms  of  brilliant  conversation. 

Nov.  14. — This  morning  Mrs,  S ,  Mrs.  P ,  and  I 

drove  to  the  "  Eesidency,"  they  for  business  while  I  went  on  the 

roof  and  made  a  sketch  of  the  city.     Mrs.  P has  invited 

me  to  stay  with  her  when  I  visit  Agra.  She  and  the  Major  are 
great  friends  of  the  missionaries.  At  Lahore'  she  stayed  with 
some  of  them  during  the  Punjaub  War,  while  her  husband  was 
in  active  service.  This  afternoon  I  drove  back  to  the  Eesidency 
to  finish  my  sketch. 

I  then  mounted  an  elephant  and  rode  to  see  the  "  Choke,"  as  it 
is  termed,  the  wealthier  and  most  curious  part  of  the  bazaars. 
It  is  singular  to  see  these  huge  brutes  thread  their  way  through 
narrow,  uneven,  and  slippery  streets.  When  they  meet  each 
other  there  is  often  a  very  close  squeeze  to  pass,  and  yet  they  are 


348  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

guided  by  the  slightest  touch.  Usually  the  mahout,  or  driver, 
uses  a  pointed  iron,  like  a  boat-hook ;  but  on  meeting  natives 
(who  must  give  way),  I  saw  them  several  times  backed  into  a 
narrow  alley  for  me  to  pass,  and  yet,  only  by  a  slight  pressure 
of  the  hand  on  the  neck.  They  present  a  very  singular  appear- 
ance in  approaching  through  a  narrow  street,  with  huge  black 
bodies  and  mottled  trunks  which  swing  about,  often  on  the 
ground. 

The  horses  and  cattle  in  passing  evince  great  alarm,  and  yet  I 
am  told  the  elephant  is  much  the  most  frightened.  Among  the 
sights  was  the  Rajah  from  Gwalior,  his  horse  covered  with  gold 
embroidered  housings.  There  is  a  very  great  resemblance 
between  all  bazaars  in  India  and  the  East  generally,  and  I  am 
very  fond  of  wandering  through  them — the  only  advantage  to-day 
was  being  on  the  "  Resident's"  elephant,  with  rich  housings  and 
servants.  I  rode  "  en  prince,"  every  one  salaaming  me,  people 
on  elephants  backing  out  of  the  way,  and  people  on  horseback 
dismounting.  This  evening  Colonel  Sleeman  had  a  large  dinner 
party. 

November  loth,  Cawnpoee  Bungalow. — At  daylight  I  took 
another  walk  with  Colonel  Sleeman  ;  as  we  returned  my  transit 
carriage  drove  up,  so  I  bid  good-bye  to  all,  and  started  off 
again  on  my  wanderings  after  a  most  delightful  visit,  in  which 

Col.  and   Mrs.  S did  everything  possible  to  render  it 

agreeable. 

The  journey  to-day  had  nothing  to  interest,  neither  the  country 
or  people  I  was  constantly  passing,  and  now  I  am  stopping  at 
this  place  until  nine  this  evening,  when  I  shall  start  for  Meerut, 
where  I  have  a  letter  to  an  ofl&cer  in  the  14th  Light  Dragoons,  a 

Queen's  regiment,  and  also  expect  a  letter  from  Mr.  F at 

Lahore,  with  directions  as  to  my  route. 

Last  evening  I  had  a  long  conversation  with  Captain  L , 

who  has  recently  returned  from  Cashmere,  of  which  he  gave  me 
a  most  glowing  account,  and  especially  of  the  scenery  in  the 


OPPKESSION  AND   MISRULE.  349 

Himala3^as,  which  he  says  far  exceeds  that  of  the  Alps,  and 
he  assured  me  mj  utmost  expectations  would  be  equalled. 

As  to  the  natives,  their  oppression  is  almost  beyond  belief,  the 
king  having  absolute  authority,  and  merely  paying  an  annual 
tribute  to  the  East  India  Company.  Colonel  Sleeman  says  that 
two  or  three  centuries  ago,  Cashmere  was  the  summer  resort  of 
the  Indian  Moguls  or  Emperors,  and  their  nobility,  each  having 
a  small  tract  granted  to,  or  purchased  by  him,  and  it  was  under 
the  protection  of  those  days  that  the  celebrated  shawl  factories 
arose.  But  after  the  emperors'  rule  had  passed  away,  factions 
rose,  and  as  each  obtained  power,  he  governed  with  despotic 
sway,  and  in  that  way  matters  have  come  down  to  the  present 
day. 

In  Runjeet  Singh's  time,  the  rulers  paid  tribute  to  him.  Dur- 
ing the  Punjaub  war  they  offered  and  promised  assistance  to  the 
English,  but,  native-like,  held  back  to  see  which  party  gained 
the  day,  and  when  the  English  did,  they  were  most  profuse  in 
their  excuses  for  not  giving  the  profferred  aid  sooner. 

But  of  all  the  countries  in  or  out  of  India,  I  think  none  can 
exceed  or  even  equal  this,  where  misrule  is  the  order  of  the  day. 
The  king  passing  his  time  between  the  sensuality  of  the  Zenana 
or  witnessing  combats  between  elephants,  tigers,  and  everything 
that  has  got  the  least  fight  in  it,  down  to  a  poor  little  quail — the 
country  a  hotbed  of  revolution,  and  the  government  as  dangerous 
to  India,  as  it  is  destructive  to  the  prosperity  of  the  people.  The 
taxes  are  collected  by  an  army,  No  native  under  such  rule  ever 
pays  if  he  can  avoid  it — he  is  never  very  willing  to  pay,  but 
most  positively  opposed  to  it  here,  for  should  he  pay  willingly, 
the  tax  collector  would  only  pocket  the  money  himself,  and 
report  he  could  not  collect  it,  when  he  would  be  furnished  with 
an  armed  force,  who  would  plunder,  torture,  or  murder  the  men 
in  every  way  a  refined  brutality  could  suggest,  besides  violating 
all  the  women  they  could  find — an  outrage  they  all  look  upon 
as  perfectly  justifiable  under  the  circumstances — in  fact  they 
look  upon  these  "  little  excesses"  as  their  perquisites. 


350  FKOM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Every  petty  cliief  makes  war  upon  his  neiglibors,  plundering 
or  getting  plundered.  In  fact  there  is  no  security  for  person,  or 
property.  The  English  have  enlisted  great  numbers  of  these 
high  caste  people  in  their  army,  who  join  to  gratify  their  belli- 
gerent tastes,  as  most  of  the  people  of  the  better  or  fighting  caste 
look  down  upon  the  rj^ots  or  laborers,  and  consider  the  sole  pur- 
pose of  life  to  be  fight  and  plunder. 

The  English,  by  enlisting  so  many  of  this  class,  have  rendered 
the  Bengal  army  the  most  turbulent  and  least  efficient  in  the 
three  Presidencies.  All  soldiers  are  expected  to  work  in  the 
trenches  or  assist  in  such  labor  in  war,  but  these  rascals  posi- 
tively refuse  to  work,  though  the  soldiers  in  both  of  the  other 
Presidencies  work  with  the  Queen's  troops.  The  men  make  a 
fine  show  on  parade,  but  have  never  fought  better,  or  as  well, 
if  I  am  correctly  informed,  as  those  of  the  Madras  and  Bombay 
Presidencies. 

When  they  enlist,  they  agree  to  do  and  go  as  required,  and  in 
most  instances,  when  ordered  down  to  Calcutta  to  embark  for 
China  or  Burmah,  they  have  positively  refused  to  go,  and  the 
government,  with  singular  imbecility,  have  ordered  them  up 
country  again,  almost  apologizing  for  having  asked  such  a 
thing  of  them,  instead  of  compelling  them  to  go,  and  making 
an  example  of  the  mutinous  soldiers  by  shooting  some  of  them 
down. 

In  this  way  the  Bengal  soldiers  have  almost  come  to  the  belief 
that  they  are  the  rulers.  Besides  all  this,  they  are  treated  with 
much  more  lenity  than  the  English  soldiers.  An  English  sol- 
dier may  be  severely  flogged  for  any  dereliction  of  duty — a 
native  soldier  cannot  be  touched ;  and  in  this  way  they  have 
almost  got  to  despise  the  European  soldiers  from  being  so  much 
better  treated  themselves.  Their  pay  is  from  six  to  seven  dollars 
a  month,  and  though  obliged  to  furnish  his  linen  and  materials, 
and  to  keep  his  arms  and  accoutrements  in  order,  still  there  is  a 
balance  in  his  favor  of  twice  as  much  as  he  would  earn  in  any 
other  way.     The  English  respect  their  castes,  though  by  taking 


THE   GREAT  GAI^GES   CANAL.  351 

SO  many  from  Oude,  they  liavc  weakened  the  effect  that  was 
formerly  produced  from  having  every  variety  of  creed  and  caste 
more  equally  divided,  to  counteract  the  influence  of  any  one  sect 
or  caste."^ 

November  IQth,  BUNGALOW. — Last  night  I  started  for  this 
place ;  to-day  over  an  -uninteresting  country,  mailed  a  letter  for 
you,  and  this  afternoon,  while  stopping  at  the  bungalow,  saw  a 
gentleman,  lady  and  child,  like  myself  enjoying  the  felicity  of 
travellino;. 


"o" 


November  17th,  Meerut. — Travelling  all  day  with  no  new 
sight  except  the  bed  of  the  Great  Ganges  Canal,  no^  yet  quite 
ready  for  use.  It  is  a  stupendous  work,  and  intended  to  irrigate 
the  country  principally,  though  partially  for  transport.  It  has 
been  built  in  the  hopes  of  preventing  the  frightful  famines  that 
sometimes  afflict  this  part  of  India  on  the  failure  of  the  usual 
annual  quantity  of  rain.     Reaching  here  at  eleven  this  evening, 

*  After  I  left  India,  the  lawlessness  of  the  government  having  exceeded 
tlie  last  possible  point  of  forbearance  the  East  India  Company  could  permit, 
consistent  with  its  own  safety,  they  annexed  Oude,  pensioned  the  king,  and 
took  possession  of  the  country.  A  large  number  of  those  I  knew  at  Lucknow 
have  perished  in  the  rebellion.  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  was  appointed  as  Resi- 
dent after  the  resignation  of  Colonel  Sleeman,  and  died  during  the  siege  of 
Cawupore, — I  was  in  correspondence  with  him  wliile  in  India.  GeueraF 
Havelock,  another  of  the  heroes  who  perished  during  the  insurrection,  I  knew 
personally,  and  General  Neill,  who  was  killed  during  the  siege  of  Lucknow,  I 
was  most  intimately  acquainted  with.  He,  like  Havelock,  had  seen  much 
service ;  both  were  in  the  Afghanistan  campaign,  where  they  were  highly 
distinguished,  and  latterly  Neill  was  much  distinguished  in  the  Burmese  war, 
and  it  was  after  his  return  to  England  to  recover  his  health  in  1854  that  he 
volunteered  for  the  Crimean  campaign,  where  he  commanded  in  the  Turkish 
contingent.  He  was  a  splendid  specimen  of  a  soldier  in  every  respect.  He 
and  Havelock  were  most  unmistakable  types  of  the  true  soldier,  and  could 
not  be  mistaken,  under  any  circumstances,  for  anything  else. 

The  "  Residency"  I  allude  to  in  the  city  was  the  building  that  stood  the 
memorable  siege  until  relieved  by  the  army  under  Havelock,  Neill,  and 
Outram. 


352  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

I  was  soon  enjoying  a  cup  of  tea,  and  presently  I  hope  a  com- 
fortable night's  rest  after  the  two  past  nights  of  transit  coach 
joltings. 

November  18th. — Sending  to  the  Post  Office  this  morning,  found 

a  letter  from  Mr.  F at  Lahore,  with  directions  what  to  do. 

So  drove  to  the  Post  Office  and  laid  my  dak  for  to-morrow  for 
Lahore,  a  journey  of  450  miles.  A  five  days'  and  nights'  con- 
secutive jolt  by  dhooly,  a  sort  of  skeleton  palanquin — being  of 
wood  covered  with  canvas,  instead  of  all  wood,  and  net  bottom 
for  bed  instead  of  cane,  so  is  lighter,  and  from  its  construction 
more  springy,  and  makes  less  jolting.  They  told  me  four  men 
were  the  complement  to  carry  me,  instead  of  the  eight  allowed  a 
palanquin,  which  makes  considerable  difference  in  the  expense, 
for  everything  in  India  is  commensurate  with  the  high  pay  of 
the  officials,  exchanges,  bankers'  commissions,  etc.,  to  which  are 
added  constant  exchanges,  for  as  silver  and  not  gold  is  the  cur- 
rency, one  can  only  carry  a  small  amount  with  him  for  the 
weight,  and  he  is  necessarily  obliged  either  to  get  hoondies 
(native  drafts),  drafts  on  the  up-country  banks,  or  drawing  a 
certain  sum  on  your  London  banker,  deposit  it  with  your  Cal- 
cutta banker,  and  take  a  general  letter  of  credit  ^rom  your 
Calcutta  banker  on  the  banks  and  bankers  up  country. 

I  did  the  latter,  and  they  all  charge  a  heavy  discount,  for,  like 
the  Calcutta  shopkeepers,  they  "  did  not  come  out  here  for  our 
health."  My  servant  and  heavy  luggage  I  shall  despatch  to- 
morrow night  by  the  government  bullock  train  of  waggons  for 
Lahore,  which  he  will  reach  in  three  or  four  days  after  me. 

I  then  drove  to  Mr.  J 's,  a  lieutenant  in  the  14th  Light 

Dragoons  (one  of  the  Queen's  regiments),  to  whom  I  had  a  letter 

from  M of  the  15th  Hussars  at  Bangalore.     He  at  once 

proposed  introducing  me  to  his  mess,  and  being  on  the  sick  list, 
wrote  to  the  surgeon  for  permission  to  dine  at  the  mess  this 
evening,  for  which  he  invited  me.  He  then  introduced  me  to 
his  chum.  Major  W ,  of  the  same  regiment.     After  a  while 


7T 


THE   BEGUM   SOMEOO.  353 

W proposed  my  going  to  tlie  mess  for  tiffin,  and  see  the 

news  by  the  late  steamer.  Then  I  was  introduced  to  the  colonel 
and  half  a  dozen  other  officers  of  the  regiment. 

This  afternoon  W called  at  the  duk  bungalow,  and 

drove  me  out,  I  having  declined  their  invitation  to  stay  with 
them,  as  I  have  some  packing  and  repacking,  for  the  servant  is 
to  take  all  my  heavy  luggage.  During  our  drive  we  saw  all  the 
"  beauty  and  fxshion,"  and  the  station,  which  is  one  of  the  pret- 
tiest in  India,  with  distant  views  of  the  Himalayas  ;  it  also  has  a 
very  healthy  and  agreeable  climate.  Even  at  this  season,  the 
weather  is  rather  cool.  At  dinner  I  made  the  acquaintance  of 
more  of  the  officers. 

Then  to  my  bungalow  and  off  for  Sirdana,  the  capital  of  the 
celebrated  Begum  Somroo  (Begum  means  queen  or  widow  of  the 
king),  who  was  a  half-caste  Portuguese  woman,  or  else  descended 
from  the  Mogul  family  (descents  are  very  queer  in  India).  I 
believe  the  latter  is  the  correct  version.  She  is  the  widow  of  a 
French  adventurer  by  the  name  of  Sombre,  who  attained  much 
celebrity  in  the  time  of  Hastings  by  his  cruelty  to  all  the  English 
prisoners  who  fell  into  his  hands.  After  this  husband's  death 
she  had  numerous  temporary  husbands,  being  rather  given  to 
"fancy  life,"  like  her  great  predecessor  Catharine  of  Eussia. 
Among  her  lovers  or  enemies,  as  circumstances  dictated,  was  an 
Irishman  from  Tipperary,  a  deserter  and  adventurer,  who  had 
a  rival  kingdom  near  by,  for  which  he  fought  a  battle  three  or 
four  times  a  week  for  three  or  four  years,  when  he  was  forced  to 
fly  and  give  up  altogether  his  attempts  to  Hibernicise  these  natives, 
who  obstinately  preferred  St.  Bhudda  to  St.  Patrick.  The  Begum 
was  more  politic,  and  maintained  her  kingdom  until  her  death  a 
few  years  ago,  though  it  was  much  curtailed  by  the  English, 
who  held  the  actual  rule,  though  she  possessed  the  nominal  one. 
She  became  a  Roman  Catholic,  and  built  a  cathedral  at  Sirdana. 
The  Dyce  Sombre,  about  whose  property  there  is  a  lawsuit,  is 
her  son.  Being  a  "great  catch"  as  to  fortune,  Lord  St.  Vincent's 
family  being  poor,  took  him  for  one  of  their  daughters,  and  then, 

23 


354  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

found  lie  was  crazy,  and  shut  him  up,  and  thought  him  still 
more  crazy  when  they  found  he  had  left  his  property  to  the 
East  India  Company  at  his  death,  instead  of  to  his  mercenary 
wife,  who  did  not  mind  "  amalgamation"  with  this  native  to  get 
a  prospective  chance  at  his  money,  now  likely  to  be  consumed 
in  the  lawsuit  maintained  by  the  East  India  Company  for  its 
recovery  as  his  heir  b}^  devise  in  the  will. 

Nov.  19^/i,  SiRDANA. — I  reached  here  at  daylight,  and  while 
making  my  toilet  (at  the  cathedral  door  where  the  men  had 
planted  me)  in  my  dhooly,  a  priest  passed  in  the  gates  for  morn- 
ing mass.  Breakfasting  on  the  spare  diet  of  water,  a  cold  Qgg^ 
and  dry  bread,  I  started  for  the  chapel,  when  an  Irish  priest 
informed  me  I  could  not  see  the  tomb  until  after  service.  He 
invited  me  into  the  church,  and  gave  me  a  seat;  going  in  I 
passed  the  Begum's  old  Italian  doctor,  who,  with  his  dogs,  were 
enjoying  the  service  at  the  church  door.  The  dogs  seeing  me, 
set  up  a  tremendous  barking  m  the  church.  I  watched  the  Hin- 
doo converts,  who  were  as  much  puzzled  as  I  was  at  the  service, 
and  I  suppose  their  Christianity  was  very  much  on  the  same 
principle  as  the  New  Zealander's,  who  declared,  "  I  am  good 
Christian.     I  don't  eat  no  more  missionary  on  Sunday." 

The  church  is  pretty  and  neat,  with  tesselated  marble  pave- 
ment, and  a  few  tolerably  good  paintings.  After  the  service,  by 
dint  of  much  entreaty,  and  assuring  the  priests  that  I  was  an 
American  traveller,  and  not  an  Englishman,  I  succeeded.  About 
a  week  ago  a  large  party  of  officers,  their  families  and  friends, 
were  here  on  a  "pic-nic,"  and  brought  their  hampers  into  the 
church,  and  made  their  "spread"  in  the  nave;  after  which  some 
formed  a  cotillion  and  danced,  while  others  went  to  the  confes- 
sional, the  ladies  pretending  to  confess  their  sins,  while  the  men 
did  the  priest.  And  what  made  the  matter  worse  was,  that  many 
of  the  men  were  high  in  the  civil  and  military  service.  After 
this  the  Bishop  forbad  that  the  tomb  should  be  shown  to 
strangers.     However,  I  succeeded  at  last. 


THE   BEGUM   SOMROO.  355 

It  is  a  square  monument  of  two  blocks.  At  eacli  corner  of 
the  lower  block  is  a  figure  of  life  size :  on  tlie  right  front  her  son 
Dyce  Sombre,  on  the  left  a  Mussulman,  on  the  rear  right  side  a 
native,  and  on  the  left  the  Archbishop.  On  the  front  of  the 
upper  block,  is  a  tablet  in  alto-rehevo  of  the  Begum  presenting 
some  church  vessel  to  the  Bishop.  On  the  right  side  of  this 
block,  is  an  alto-relievo  of  the  Begum  in  state  on  her  throne. 
On  the  left  she  is  on  an  elephant  leading  her  army.  On  the  top 
of  the  block  the  Begum,  life-size,  is  seated  on  her  throne.  She 
is  small,  dressed  in  the  oriental  costume  of  trowsers  and  short 
full  skirt  with  a  scarf.  The  whole  is  of  white  marble,  executed 
in  Italy,  and  sent  out  here. 

She  looks  most  peculiar  in  this  costume.  Her  face  indicates 
some  cleverness,  and  much  decision.  In  an  adjoining  chapel  is 
her  tomb,  in  true  Mussulmanic  style,  of  chunam,  with  spears  and 
banner  in  each  corner. 

I  then  went  to  see  her  palace — a  fine  large  building  in  the 
Italian  style,  and  very  like  an  English  gentleman's  country 
house.  The  main  and  front  room  was  in  a  very  dilapidated 
condition,  with  a  billiard  table.  The  walls  were  hung  with  por- 
traits of  herself,  son  in  a  court  dress,  besides  Enghsh  and  French 
of&cers.  I  next  went  to  the  ladies'  room  in  the  rear ;  there  is, 
however,  nothing  to  be  seen  there.  Her  bath-room  was  very 
handsomely  fitted  up  in  white  or  grey  marble.  All  the  rooms 
are  shown,  except  the  one  in  which,  in  a  fit  of  jealousy,  she  is 
said  to  have  buried  one  of  her  dancing  girls  alive.  In  front  of 
this  house,  were  two  tents  of  some  gentlemen,  and  two  bears 
chained  to  tr^es.  There  is  nothing  more  than  these  things  to  be 
seen.     The  town  is  small  and  uninteresting.     Back  to  Meerut,  a 

three  hours'  ride.     Called  to  see  J and  W ,  and  this 

evening  shall  be  off  on  my  little  trip  of  five  days. 

Nov.  20lh,  Seharumpoor. — After  a  bitter  cold  night,  I  reached 
a  bungalow  for  breakfast  about  eight  this  morning.  At  Dolund 
I  saw  some  irregular  cavalry.     The  place  was  apparently  at  one 


356  FROM    WALL    STREET   TO    CASHAlEliE, 

time  a  good-sized  city.  This  afternoon  I  saw  a  pond  or  "bund" 
(a  place  where  water  is  confined  for  irrigation)  in  the  distance, 
with  hundreds  of  wild  geese  flying  about.  I  saw  a  tent  standing 
near  the  road,  and  heard  some  one's  gun  near  the  pond.  This 
afternoon,  while  enjoying  a  sandwich  dinner  or  "tiffin"  in  my 
dhooly,  with  towel  and  sandwiches  in  my  lap,  bottles  of  catsup, 
chutney,  and  beer  at  my  side,  and  I  in  my  shirt-sleeves  and 
red  "  bonnet  de  nuit,"  with  one  hand  to  my  mouth  with  a  sand- 
wich, and  a  big  hunting  knife  in  the  other,  I  was  suddenly  sur- 
prised by  the  apparition  of  a  pair  of  bright  eyes  gazing  very 
quizzically  at  me — a  lady  going  "  down  country  "  in  her  palan- 
quin, a  gentleman  walking  behind  with  his  dogs  and  followed 
by  his  palanquin. 

Usually  on  approaching,  the  bearers  set  up  a  grunting  chorus, 
which  apprises  you  of  the  approach  of  any  one.  At  dusk  this 
evening  I  reached  this  place.  Two  officers  passed  me  on  horse- 
back as  I  came  in.  Saw  two  churches,  and  then  was  planted  in 
the  road  for  a  while  to  collect  my  next  set  of  bearers.  The  place 
seems  small. 

Nov.  21s^,  Umballa. — Last  evening  I  passed  through  the 
principal  street  of  Seharumpoor.  The  shops  looked  very  curious, 
all  being  lit  up.  At  daylight  had  a  glimpse  of  the  Himalayas. 
Arrived  at  this  place  at  three.  I  passed  an  occasional  walled 
town  peering  through  the  trees.  Umballa  is  a  cavalry  station, 
without  many  houses.  The  bungalow  is  full.  I  just  got  a  chance 
for  a  dinner.  I  have  letters  to  some  American  missionaries  here, 
and  an  officer  in  the  9th  Lancers  (Queen's  regiment),  but  shall 
wait  until  my  return  to  present  them.* 

'  After  leaving  the  principal  town  of  Umballa,  in  about  three 
miles,  I  came  to  another,  the  native  town  I  suppose,  though  it 
had  a  few  European  bungalows.  At  dark  I  saw  the  tent  and 
camp  equipments  of  some  officers  moving  up  country;  shortly 

*  Umballa  was  one  of  the  first  places  where  the  revolt  broke  out. 


LAODIANA.  357 

after,  a  small,  well  fortified  Mussulman  town,  with  a  fine  portal 
at  each  end. 

Nov.  22cZ,  Laodiana. — At  daylight  I  passed  another  small 
fortified  town,  which  I  sketched.  I  reached  this  place  coming 
over  much  bad  road,  which  is  now  being  graded,  and  as  soon  as 
that  is  finished  and  the  kunka  put  on,  it  will  be  beautifully 
smooth,  like  the  grand  trunk  road  to  Meerut. 

The  town  is  situated  on  a  small  sandy  elevation.  It  appears 
to  be  very  dirty,  disagreeable,  and  thinly  peopled.  Outside 
of  the  town  was  a  company  of  irregular  cavalry,  with  part 
of  a  regiment  of  Europeans  moving  up  country  to  Peshawur, 
and  the  whole  place  full  of  baggage-wagons.  I  had  a  letter  to 
Mr.  Porter,  a  very  highly  esteemed  missionary  at  this  place, 
from  Mr.  Burnet,  a  missionary  I  met  at  Damascus  in  the  autumn 
of  1852,  who  said' Mr.  Porter  had  been  a  classmate  of  his  at  the 
seminary.  But  I  hear  he  has  fallen  a  victim  to  the  climate  and 
died  this  morning,  so  felt  my  absence  would  be  preferred  to  my 
company  at  such  a  time,  as  several  of  the  missionaries  at  Lahore 
are  here  with  his  family. 

After  dinner  I  started  again  and  crossed  the  Sutlej,  a  sand 
bed  for  the  most  part  at  this  season,  and  two  thirds  of  a  mile 
wide.  The  first  war  with  the  Sikhs  in  1845,  was  occasioned  by 
their  crossing  this  river  and  attacking  the  English. 

Runjeet  Singh  managed  to  control  their  warlike  ardor  during 
his  lifetime,  but  after  his  death  they  could  not  restrain  their 
desire  to  measure  arms  with  "John  Company,"  when,  after 
several  very  severe  battles,  the  Sikhs  were  defeated,  and  the 
country  occupied  by  the  English  troops,  and  an  English  Resident, 
Sir  Henry  Lawrence,  stationed  at  Lahore.  About  eight  miles 
out,  I  passed  the  strong  native  fort  of  Falour,  now  used  as  a 
powder  magazine.  About  three  hours  after  I  crossed  the  Beas, 
called  by  some  the  Hydaspes,  where  Alexander  the  Great  termi- 
nated his  wanderings  eastward ;  I  believe  that  place  is  more  to 
the  northwest. 


358  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Crossing  tlie  bed  of  the  river,  I  saw  many  of  the  carts  imbedded 
almost  to  the  hubs  in  the  sand ;  the  soldiers,  some  walking  and 
others  sitting  and  looking  quietly  on,  while  the  women  were 
talking,  scolding,  or  looking  the  picture  of  despair.  On  top  of 
one  cart  I  saw  one  hard  at  work  washing  clothes.  The  boats  used 
for  bridges  are  curious,  very  flat,  and  with  high  pointed  fronts 
or  bows  like  a  sail.  Then  on  with  but  little  besides  an  uninter- 
esting country  to  see,  only  bad  roads  and  hundreds  of  native 
travellers, 

Nov.  2M,  Umritza. — Over  a  flat  level  country  this  morning; 
at  five  passed  the  small  town  of  Jellendir.  Saw  a  wing  of  the 
61st,  Queen's,  moving  up  country.     I  reached  this  place  at  four. 

I  wrote  a  note  to  Mr.  D to  inform  him  I  was  here,  and 

ask  when  it   would  be   agreeable   for  him   to   show   me   the 

place — F having  asked  him  to  "do  the  civil"  and  show 

me 'the  lions  of  the  place,  viz.,  the  Sikh  tank,  prison,  etc.  I 
found  he  was  off  on  his  circuit,  being  a  civil  officer ;  so  I  got  a 
chupprassy  (an  out-door  attendant  or  messenger)  and  started  on 
foot,  being  only  a  few  hundred  yards  off,  first  to  the  "sacred  tank.'' 

This  is  the  largest  town  in  the  Punjaub  (the  Sikh  country), 
and  the  most  important  commercially.  Here  are  probably  made 
more  Cashmere  shawls  (or  camel's  hair,  a  name  they  are  better 
known  by  among  you,  though  for  no  reason,  as  they  are  made 
from  the  wool  of  a  goat  that  is  found  at  Ladak  in  Thibet)  than 
any  place  out  of  Cashmere.  The  city  is  walled,  and  presents  a  fine 
appearance  from  a  short  distance.  The  streets  are  mostly  paved 
with  brick,  and  some  are  quite  wide.  The  fronts  of  the  houses 
display  considerable  taste.  After  a  circuit  of  the  principal 
bazaars,  and  seeing  them  working  at  the  Cashmere  shawls,  etc., 
I  reached  the  entrance  to  the  great  tank,  the  Mecca  of  the  Sikhs. 

Here  I  was  obliged  to  remove  my  shoes.  In  the  East,  where 
every  man  shaves  his  head,  he,  of  course,  never  uncovers  it,  but 
takes  off  his  shoes  as  a  matter  of  respect ;  and  a  native,  or  your 
servant,  if  he  wishes  to  be  impertinent,  will  come  into  youT 


THE   GREAT  TANK  AT   UMRITZA.  359 

presence  with  them  on,  except  in  travelling,  when  in  the  hurry 
of  the  moment  he  may  forget  it.  But  at  all  other  times,  it  would 
be  as  much  a  matter  of  premeditated  impertinence,  as  a  gentle- 
man entering  a  parlor  in  the  presence  of  ladies  with  his  hat  on ; 
and  then  the  proper  way  of  noticing  the  insult,  is  by  quietly 
taking  your  cane  or  whip  and  laying  it  vigorously  over  their 
backs,  which  is  safer  in  assisting  their  exit  than  by  giving  them 
the  "loan  of  your  foot,"  as  they  are  so  subject  to  spleen  the 
latter  might  kill  them  (officers  thoughtlessly  adopting  the  latter 
mode  of  punishment  occasionally  get  themselves  into  difficulties). 

Stepping  into  a  pair  of  thick  woollen  socks,  I  entered  the  great 
quadrangle  or  court,  of  about  four  hundred  feet  square,  with  a 
terrace  or  walk  of  forty  feet  in  width  of  tessellated  marbles,  sur- 
rounding the  tank.  The  rear  of  fine  and  picturesque  native 
houses,  encloses  and  forms  the  exterior  wall  to  the  place ;  these, 
with  overhanging  verandahs,  sculptured  windows,  and  peculiar 
oriental  look,  and  in  some  parts  temple  domes  and  spires,  all  lend 
an  additional  charm  to  this  fairy  scene. 

In  the  centre  of  the  tank  stands  a  temple  of  white  marble, 
from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  square,  with  a  small  dome  rising  from 
each  corner,  which  is  supported  by  eight  columns ;  and  from  the 
centre  of  the  building  rises  a  large  dome.  The  upper  half  of  the 
external  part  of  the  building  is  a  mass  of  exquisite  gilding,  even 
to  the  very  dome  itself;  and  as  if  to  make  it  more  brilliant  from 
contrast,  the  lower  half  of  the  building,  from  the  edge  of  the 
water,  is  of  the  purest  white  marble,  beautifully  inlaid  after  the 
Florentine  style  of  mosaic,  with  designs  of  vines  and  flowers  in 
agate,  cornelian,  jasper,  and  other  similar  and  beautiful  stones. 

The  doors  are  covered  with  plates  of  silver,  and  the  walls  are 
panelled  from  floor  to  dome,  and  all  of  the  richest  sculpture,  the 
whole  of  marble.  The  temple  is  divided  into  two  parts,  with  a 
passage-way  between.  In  one  sat  the  high-priest,  in  front  of 
him  a  cushion  which  appeared  to  form  his  desk ;  he  was  per- 
forming some  kind  of  service  or  devotion,  with  the  Grunth 
(their  Koran)  before  him   on  the  cushion.     At  his  side,  and 


360  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

around  the  temple  on  a  lower  step  or  terrace,  were  worshippers 
sipping  water  and  meditating.  This  beautiful  temple  is  con- 
nected with  the  terrace  or  walk  around  the  tank  by  a  bridge  of 
white  marble.  The  pavement  tessellated ;  the  end  nearest  the 
temple  is  decorated  in  mosaic  with  birds  and  fish.  At  the  oppo- 
site end,  the  entrance  to  the  bridge,  is  a  most  elaborately  and 
richly  ornamented  portal,  gilded  and  plated.  Beyond  this,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  terrace  to  the  portal,  is  a  temple,  where 
some  of  the  officials  or  priestly  dignitaries  took  me.  Altogether 
this  is  the  most  exquisitely  beautiful  thing  I  have  seen  thus  far 
in  India.  I  have  made  a  sketch,  which,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  can 
give  you  but  a  very  meagre  idea  of  its  beauties ;  nor  can  any- 
thing but  the  sight  of  the  original  itself,  surrounded  by  all  its 
oriental  accessories.  When  illuminated,  it  might  serve  as  an 
illustration  of  an  Arabian  night  fairy  scene. 

Then  to  my  bungalow  again,  which  is  the  portal  to  a  large 
garden,  two  stories  high,  and  at  present,  from  the  number  of 
travellers,  looks  like  a  small  hotel.  Before  the  door  in  the  plain, 
is  a  large  body  of  the  Seikh  local  corps  drilling.  They  are  a 
drilled  militia  and  very  fine-looking,  as  the  Seikhs  generally  are 
as  far  as  I  have  seen  them  in  my  wanderings  through  their 
•country  and  this  town.  They  all  have  more  of  the  Arab  and 
Syrian  look,  with  the  bright  complexions  of  the  Egyptians,  than 
^ny  race  of  people  I  have  seen  in  India.  In  their  wars  with  the 
English  during  the  Sutlej  campaign  of  1845,  and  Punjaub  war 
of  1848,  they  always  despised  the  Sepoy  troops,  and  put  all  the 
force  of  the  attacks  against  the  English.  I  am  told  they  are 
really  a  military  race,  and  enlist  most  willingly.  The  English 
ihave  availed  themselves  of  this  disposition,  and  sent  regiments 
■of  them  to  Burmah,  for  the  double  purpose  of  getting  rid  of 
1;hose  who  are  the  most  anxious  to  fight,  and  because  the  petted 
Bengalees  refase  to  go.^ 

*  The  Seikhs  and  Goorka  regiments,  I  believe,  are  the  only  regiments, 
'during  the  Bengal  mutinies,  that  have  not  been  suspected  or  disarmed — cer- 


LAHORE.  361 

Dinner  was  mj  first  meal,  except  a  sandwich  or  two,  for  ihiriij- 
iwo  hours  ! — my  appetite  was  good ! 

Nov.  24:ih^  Lahore. — I  started  last  night  at  eight  for  this  place, 

getting  here  at  six  this  morning.    I  caught  F enjoying  his 

"  last  nap."  After  a  cup  of  tea  we  were  off  to  the  Post  Office, 
where  I  found  a  letter  from  Hall,  inclosing  one  of  introduction 
from  Mr.  Colvih,  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  Northwest 
Provinces,  to  John  Lawrence,  Esq.,  the  Chief  Commissioner  (or 
Governor)  of  the  Punjaub. 

Then  to  the  town,  where  I  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  minarets 
of  the  Great  Mosque,  which  gives  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and 
country.  The  city  formerly  had  high  walls,  tolerably  fortified 
under  Eanjeet  Singh,  the  late  Maharajah  (great  king),  who  con- 
solidated the  Seikh  power.  His  Palace  buildings  were  on  an 
enormous  scale.  They  are  now  converted  into  infantry  barracks. 
There  are  few  noticeable  buildings  here. 

To-morrow  I  am  to  drive  out  to  the  tomb  of  Jehan  Ghir,  one 
of  the  five  great  Emperors.  On  our  return,  we  stopped  at  the 
Post  Office ;  but  the  Calcutta  mail  had  not  arrived.  I  saw  the 
ice-house  establishment.  The  water  is  frozen  in  flat  dishes  during 
the  night,  collected  before  sunrise,  thrust  into  the  house,  and 
pounded  down  by  Coolies.     They  often  get  of  a  morning  in  this 

way,  from  2  to  6  tons.     After  breakfast,  F 's  chum,  Mr. 

Wedderburn,  joined  us,  having  just  returned  from  the  district 
where  he  had  been  some  days  on  official  business. 

This  morning  I  called  on  Mr."  Grenville,  the  Chief  Commis- 
sioner's Secretary,  for  a  permit.  It  passed  me  on  my  way  to  his 
house.  He  is  a  fine  man ;  he  said  that  the  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Mr.  Colvin,  had  written  to  one  of  the  high  officials  here  about 
me,  and  wished  them  to  render  me  any  assistance  in  their  power. 
Mr.  Lawrence  has  gone  to  Peshawur  to  quell  disturbances.     This 

taiiily  the  only  ones  that  have  remained  faithful  to  "the  Company's  salt;" 
and  during  these  trying  times  they  have  borne  a  high  reputation  for  their 
courage  and  zeal  in  the  Company's  cause. 


362  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

is  a  nice  little  district  of  about  a  thousand  miles  square,  wliicli 
he  has  under  his  charge.     To-morrow  we  dine  with  G . 

Nov.  25th. — F and  I  started  ofiE"  this  morning  to  the 

tomb  of  Jehan  Ghir,  which  is  about  three  miles  from  the  town. 
I  crossed  the  river,  which  is  about  a  mile  in  width  now  and  ford- 
able,  though  in  the  wet  season  it  is  a  deep  stream. 

Like  all  Mussulman  tombs  of  any  pretension,  it  is  a  large 
square  building,  with  four  lofty  minarets,  and  situated  in  a  pretty 
garden.  The  tomb  is  now  going  to  decay,  though  government 
occasionally  lends  a  watchful  eye  to  its  preservation.  The  tomb 
is  in  the  interior  of  the  building.  Passing  through  the  tes- 
sellated hall,  with  stucco  walls,  or  chunam  painted  to  represent 
tiles  (an  art  now  lost  like  that  of  the  art  of  making  azulijos  or 
painted  tiles  in  the  Alhambra,  which  they  much  resemble),  around 
the  tomb  there  is  a  white  marble  floor,  in  mosaic,  of  Florentine 
style,  with  agate,  lapis  lazuli,  cornelian,  and  jasper.  Beyond  is  a 
marble  lace- work  screen. 

The  tomb  stands  under  a  small,  but  beautifully  painted  dome, 
which,  like  the  other  parts,  shows  visible  marks  of  age  and  decay. 
The  minarets  are  of  brick,  with  a  covering  of  chunam,  with 
many  parts  painted  in  various  colors,  in  "herring-bone  style." 

Ascending  to  the  top  of  the  main  building,  I  found  a  flat  roof 
about  200  feet  square,  and  paved  with  marble  in  various  pat- 
terns ; — scollops,  stars,  and  almost  every  possible  device,  in  black 
and  white  marble — principally  the  latter. 

Lahore  presents  a  fine  appearance  from  the  minarets.     Then 

home,  and  after  breakfast  F •  and  W went  to  hold 

kutcherries  (courts),  while  I  am  passing  the  day  midst  maps, 
routes,  and  accounts.  T  bought  a  book  of  a  native  artist,  with 
views,  costumes,  artizans,  etc. — very  neatly  done,  and  I  am  sure, 
notwithstanding  the  bad  perspective,  it  will  afford  much  amuse- 
ment to  all  at  home. 

This  afternoon  F and  I  drove  to  the  Botanical  Gardens, 

to  hear  the  band,  but  they  did  not  play.     We  afl;erwards  dined 


J!i 


'"'•''Hi 


m 


iiiiiiii 


THE  SHALIMAR  GARDENS,  363 

at  Mr.  AI 's — a  dinner  given  to  me.     We  met  a  pleasant 

party  of  six;    Captain  E ,  one  of  the  Afghan  prisoners 

during  the  war — a  Deputy  Commissioner,  and  a  Captain  D . 

Nov.  26ih. — Off  early  to  the  city.  En  route  I  stopped  to  see 
the  great  gun,  of  enormous  size,  made  by  one  of  the  early  sove- 
reigns. Then  on  to  the  city  to  see  a  pretty  mosque,  built  by 
Jehan  Ghir,  who  sent  to  China  for  artists  to  paint  it.  They  were 
most  profuse  in  their  views,  flowers,  and  gaudy  colors.  But  the 
effect  is  very  pleasing.  On  the  top  of  the  minarets  (which  are 
oddly  painted)  the  view  is  fine.  The  Golden  Mosque  with  gilt 
minarets,  and  the  Palace  in  the  fort  succeeded.  We  visited 
the  Hall  of  Audience ;  it  is  a  large  court,  with  tessellated  pave- 
ment and  fountain,  and  opening  on  to  it  is  the  Great  Hall,  the 
ceiling  and  walls  of  which  are  inlaid  with  convex  bits  of  glass, 
cut  in  various  designs.  When  lighted  it  must  be  brilliant  and 
gaudy. 

It  was  here  that,  after  the  Sutlej  campaign  of  the  first  Seikh 
war.  Lord  Gough,  the  Governor-General,  and  the  rest  of  the  dig- 
nitaries, met  the  young  Maharajah,  with  a  guard  of  only  one 
hundred  (but  picked)  lancers,  much  to  the  amazement  of  the 
Seikhs. 

After  breakfast  I  called  to  see  the  missionaries  who  had  not 
yet  returned  from  Loodheana, 

At  home  I  have  been  practising  rifle-shooting  in  the  area  of 

F 's  house,  an  old  mosque  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 

square.  This  evening  I  dined  with  the  15th  Irregular  Cavalry 
mess. 

Nov.  27ih. — This  morning  had  the  usual  daylight  drive.  We 
drove  to  the  Shalimar  Gardens.  They  were  laid  out  by  Shah 
Jehan,  and  are  very  extensive,  and  ornamented  with  numerous 
fountains,  arranged  to  form  successive  cascades,  with  tanks  and 
jets.  In  their  pristine  beauty,  they  must  have  been  exquisite. 
They  are   now  being  repaired  under  F 's  supervision. 


364  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

When  I  return  from  Caslimere  they  will  probably  be  completed. 
The  basins  of  many  are  of  white  marble.  They  are  taken  care  of 
by  an  hereditary  gardener,  who  backsheeshes  his  opponents  with 
flowers  and  fruits,  to  mollify  their  indignation,  at  the  loss  of  so 
much  rent. 

They  grow  trees  here  for  transplanting — tree-planting  now 
being  quite  "  the  rage"  in  India,  especially  the  Jamur,  which  is 
most  valuable  for  manufacturing  into  variovis  articles  for  carriages 
and  other  vehicles.  The  Seikhs,  during  their  wars,  cut  down 
most  of  the  fine  timber  for  gun  carriages,  military  wagons,  etc. 

Back  to  the  city,  which  was  the  ancient  Lahore,  when  con- 
quered by  the  Mussulmans,  and  even  during  their  day  it  is 
supposed  to  have  been  many  miles  in  circuit.     On  getting  home 

I  found  a  cousin  of  F 's,  one  of  the  A 's,  a  numerous 

family  of  six  brothers,  all  here  in  civil  or  military  service. 

To-day  to  church ;  quite  a  turn-out  morning  and  afternoon, 
for  so  small  a  place.  The  church  is  a  tomb,  like  most  of  the 
residences  here.  Our  house  is  a  tomb,  and  in  the  rear  a  Fakeer 
(religious  beggar)  occasionally  gives  us  dulcet  strains  on  his 

tom-tom  drum.     A dined  here,  and  has  invited  us  all  to 

dine  at  his — the  artillery  mess — at  "  Meer-and-Meer,"  Wed- 
nesday night. 

Nov.  28th. — This  morning  went  out  looking  for  saddle  and 
bridle  for  my  tour,  but  I  was  quite  unsuccessful.  The  servant  has 
arrived  with  my  things.  At  the  Botanical  Garden  we  saw  some 
new-fashioned  wells  and  flowers,  and  I  am  now  packing  up  for 
my  Cashmere  trip.  Unfortunately  I  could  not  get  the  Coolies 
off  with  my  things  to-night. 

The  preparations  are  almost  for  a  Siberian  winter.  In  crossing 
the  Himalayas  the  cold  is  felt  so  severely  from  the  snow,  and 
the  transition  is  so  sudden  from  these  low,  hot  countries.  It  is 
tolerably  cool  here  now,  however.  Winter  clothes  and  fires  in 
the  evening  are  very  necessary  for  comfort,  though  out-of-doors 
in  the  day-time  the  weather  is  warm. 


INSPECTION  DAY  AT  A  JAIL.  365 

Nov.  2^th. — My  people  were  all  en  route  for  Caslimere  this 
morning  by  a  little  after  daylight.  They  were  Cashmerians, 
■who  are  stout,  able-bodied  men,  and  like  to  return  to  their  coun- 
try, when  certain  of  coming  out  again ;  or  are  under  the  protection 
of  Europeans,  for  Goolaub  Singh  has  guards  stationed  in  the 
mountains  to  prevent  his  people  escaping  from  the  country.  He 
exercises  such  tyranny,  that  all  escape  who  can. 

I  shall  start  on  Thursday  at  mid-day  for  Goojrat,  by  dak,  and 
thence  in  the  saddle  to  Bimber,  where  I  shall  overtake  my  men, 
about  one  hundred  miles  ahead,  on  the  border  of  Cashmere. 

After  starting  my  men,  F and  I  walked  to  the  jail.     It  is 

inspection  day,  and  his  turn  to  visit  the  place.  I  saw  some  of 
the  men  twisting  grass  rope  by  hand.     One  prisoner  complained 

to  F that  it  blistered  his  hands — evidently  a  gentleman 

vagabond.  Others  were  grinding  grain,  and  many  were  spinning 
or  weaving  cotton.  The  weavers  sat  on  the  ground,  with  their 
feet  in  a  hole.  Most  of  the  prisoners  "are  up"  for  cattle-lifting, 
a  profession  as  honorable  among  them,  as  it  formerly  was  for 

the  Scotch  borderers.     I  told  F that  he,  W ,  and 

the  Governor-General  should  have  a  strong  symjDathy  for  so 
home-like  a  profession. 

The  cattle-tenders  attain  great  dexterity  in  tracking  the  cattle 
and  thieves,  like  our  Indians.  Now  that  Thuggery  has  been  dis- 
covered to  exist  in  the  Punjaub,  the  cattle-tenders  are  of  much 

service   among  the  police.     W and  F are   both 

engaged  in  trying  Thuggery  cases.  One  Thuggery  was  com- 
mitted nearly  before  their  door,  the  other  about  half  a  mile 
distant;  in  both  cases  on  natives. 

After  breakfast,  I  called  on  M to  bid  good-bye.     He 

is  to  send  me  a  Perwanur  from  his  office,  and  obtain  another 
from  Goolaub  Singh's  Vakeel,  or  agent,  here,  to  facilitate  my 
journey. 

Nov.  SOlk. — This  morning  a  sunrise  walk.  After  breakfast  to 
the  Botanical  Gardens  for  a  sketch ;  but  the  sight  of  the  prettiest 


366  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

native  girl  I  have  seen  in  India,  drove  all  artistic  intentions  out 
of  my  head.  I  then  wandered  through  the  garden,  pilfering 
some  seeds  for  you. 

This  evening  we  all  three  drove  down  to  the  artillery  mess  at 

Mere-and-Mere,  to  dine  with  A .     It  is  five  miles  distant. 

That  place  being  healthier  than  this,  has  been  chosen  for  the  can- 
tonments. Around  Lahore,  there  is  very  little  foliage  to  be  seen 
— ^barely  a  green  leaf  We  had  a  joleasant  dinner.  The  mail  is 
in,  and  no  war  as  yet. 

F says  just  before  I  arrived,  there  was  a  grand  meeting 

of  all  the  high  civilians  and  native  dignitaries  at  Umritzur,  to 
settle  a  tariff  of  dower,  which  is  the  most  troublesome  matter  to 
be  arranged  in  the  country,  and  the  great  cause  of  female  infanti- 
cide, as  it  is  considered  disgraceful  to  have  unmarried  daughters : 
and  the  inability  to  give  a  dower  with  a  daughter  prevents  her 
being  married.  After  much  discussion,  it  was  settled  that  the 
scale  of  dower  should  be  reduced,  and  the  lowest  be  two  shilHngs 
(four  shillings  of  our  money) ! 

This  subject  is  one  of  frequent  litigation.  The  parents  engage 
the  children,  and  the  family  of  the  boy  make  presents  from  time 
to  time  to  the  girl.  She  perhaps  dies  before  she  attains  fourteen, 
and  is  married.  Then  the  boy's  family  insist  on  the  presents 
being  returned,  or  the  girl's  family  giving  another  daughter  in 
the  place  of  the  one  that  has  died ;  or  if  the  boy  dies,  then  his 
family  require  the  presents  to  be  returned,  unless  the  girl's  family 
consent  to  take  his  brother,  if  he  has  one.  Sometimes  they  are 
married  as  children,  and  the  boy  dies  before  they  have  grown 
up  and  lived  together  as  man  and  wife,  which  is  not  done  until 
the  girl  is  fourteen  and  the  boy  older.  In  this  event,  as  a  widow, 
she  cannot  marry.     This  state  of  society  produces  much  of  the 

licentiousness  so  prevalent  in  India.     This  morning  F 's 

butler  returned  after  an  absence  of  several  days,  instead  of  one 

day  as  he  had  asked  leave  for.     F asked  him,  as  we  sat 

at  breakfast  table,  what  made  him  stay  away  so  long.  He  said 
the  girl  his  son  was  to  be  married  to,  had  "gummy  hogard" 


THE   SIKHS.  367 

(gone  dead),  and  lie  had  to  stay  and  arrange  for  another  sister  to 
take  her  place,  and  it  was  "  arranged  all  right  now." 

Dec.  Isi,  1 353. — This  day  last  year,  I  was  half-way  to  Palmyra, 
with  a  raging  fever ;  and  the  year  before,  I  believe,  I  was  on  the 
same  day,  enjoying  quarantine  penance  at  El-Arish,  in  the  Short 
Desert,  half-way  to  Cairo.  This  morning,  being  again  iinsuccess- 
fal  in  my  efforts  to  get  a  saddle,  I  will  have  to  try  the  bare  back 
or  blanket,  on  the  ponies  over  the  hills  of  Cashmere.  However, 
I  expect  to  walk  much  of  the  time.  Now,  after  I  despatch  all 
business,  getting  money  from  the  bank,  etc.,  I  shall  post  north- 
ward by  dhooly  after  my  men. 

1  believe  I  forgot  to  mention,  that  all  Sikhs  bear  the  name  of 
"  Singh,"  as  an  appendage  to  their  names.  They  have  no  very 
special  kind  of  religion,  but  more  of  Hindoo  than  anything  else, 
and  venerating  the  cow  more  than  the  Hindoos  do.  They  are 
very  fanatic,  and  swear  on  the  book  of  rites  called  "  Grunth,"  to 
observe  the  rules  of  their  religion.  Although  not  very  numerous, 
they  managed  to  get  possession,  and  sovereignty  of  this  part  of 
the  country. 

A  large  portion  of  the  forces  Eunjeet  Singh  and  his  predeces- 
sors brought  into  the  field,  were  from  the  hill  country,  where  the 
tribes  delight  in  a  "  scrimmage,"  as  much  as  if  their  first  breath 
was  drawn  in  Tipperary. 

Dec.  2c?,  DoLTA-lSTuGGUR. — I  was  jolted  along  slowly  all  last 
night,  and  reached  Vizeerabad  at  twelve  to-day.  Passed  two  of 
my  Coolies  coming  into  town,  and  continued  on  to  Goojrat  about 
six  miles  farther.  Not  finding  the  Commissioner  at  his  house,  I 
hunted  him  up,  and  found  he  was  holding  cutcherry ;  so  I  saw 

F 's  other  friend,  the  Deputy  Commissioner,  who  took  me 

to  his  bachelor  quarters,  in  one  of  the  portals  of  the  city-gate — a 
building  three  stories  high.  He  gave  me  breakfast  at  the  fashion- 
able hour  of  half  past  one  o'clock,  and  sent  on  my  other  traps 
that  I  had  brought  in  the  dhooly,  by  some  Coolies.     As  I  had 


368  FEOM  WALL   STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

been  prevented  from  getting  servants  at  Laliore,  he  sent  out  a 
man  to  look  for  some,  who  soon  returned  with  a  very  nice  looking 
fellow,  a  beastie,  (a  sort  of  man-chambermaid)  who  brings  water 

and  does  general  work.     He  had  lived  with  F 's  brother, 

and  having  an  excellent  character,  I  took  him. 

The  other  servant,  a  kitmagar,  I  could  not  get,  as  the  only  one 

in  the  place  had  gone  to  Vizeerabad  this  morning.     C 

offered  me  his  horse  as  far  as  Bimber,  and  sent  the  syce  (groom) 
and  grass-cutter  on  ahead.  He  then  despatched  my  dhooly  on  to 
Eawul  Pindee  to  meet  me  as  I  come  out  of  Cashmere — quite  a 
lot  of  business  arrangements! 

Then  we  went  to  the  top  of  the  house  to  see  the  battle-fields 
of  Chillianwallah  and  Goojrat.  The  former,  in  which  the  Eng- 
lish under  Lord  Gough  were  defeated,  though  the  natives  did  not 
understand  military  matters  sufficiently  to  take  advantage  of  it, 
for  the  English  did  not  run  away  as  the  natives  do  when  defeated. 
The  other,  the  final  battle,  fought  during  the  Punjaub  campaign 
of  ^49.     Mounting  my  horse,  I  was  off  after  my  people. 

I  shortly  after  crossed  the  Chenaub  river,  the  greater  part  of 
which  is  now  dry,  the  balance  bridged  by  boats.  In  the  wet 
season,  it  is  three  or  four  miles  wide,  and  sometimes  occupies 
eight  hours  in  crossing.  I  overtook  my  men  just  after  dark.  At 
seven  we  reached  a  small  village,  where  after  waiting  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  the  cutwal  appeared,  spear  in  hand.  He  said  this  was 
not  a  good  place  for  camping,  and  marched  us  to  another  village 
a  mile  distant.  Entering  the  gate,  we  passed  through  the  town, 
where  I  saw  a  man  sitting  in  his  shop  reading  to  a  gaping  crowd — 
a  realization  of  the  Arabian  Nights  Tales.  Here  we  encamped 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  town,  and  got  the  tent  pitched  by  nine, 
— the  wind  blowing  a  gale  and  threatens  rain. 

Dec.  3c?,  Bimber. — This  morning  at  daylight,  it  was  not  only 
cloudy  and  threatening,  but  did  rain  a  little.  However,  by  the 
time  a  "murghi  grill"  had  been  disposed  of,  the  clouds  had 
cleared  away  and  the  sun  shining  brightly.     The  road  was  a 


ENTRANCE   INTO   CASHMERE.  369 

straight  line  for  miles,  and  turnpiked.  Mj  new  man  is  a  capital 
fellow.  On  a  distant  hill  in  the  mountains,  I  saw  a  country-seat 
of  Goolaub  Singhs.  There  is  plenty  of  snow  on  the  mountains, 
and  I  fear  it  will  be  awful  cold. 

This  afternoon  crossed  the  borders  of  the  Punjaub  into  Cash- 
mere— a  wide  expanse  of  uncultivated  soil.  Eiding  by  the  side 
of  a  small  stream,  I  saw  a  beautiful,  plumed  king-fisher  not  much 
larger  than  a  humming-bird,  dive  and  bring  out  a  mummy.  I 
rode  through  the  valley  to  Bimber,  a  small  town  on  a  low  hill. 
After  some  wandering,  I  found  the  travellers'  stopping-place,  a 
regular  stable-looking  affair.  So  I  amused  myself  eating  an 
orange  until  my  people  came  up.  While  waiting,  I  had  a  visit 
from  the  two  sons  of  the  Governor  of  the  place — I  supposed  from 
their  rich  necklaces.  They  were  boys  about  16  and  18.  Soon 
after  the  cutwal  arrived,  and  handed  me  three  rupees,  which  for 
the  moment  I  did  not  understand,  quite  forgetting  the  custom  of 
these  people  of  making  a  form  of  presenting  a  visitor  with  money, 
which  he  always  declines.  M}'  tent  was  soon  pitched,  and  just 
as  I  am  finishing  my  journal,  a  jackal  serenade  has  commenced,, 
one  brute  having  taken  up  a  position  not  20  yards  from  my  tent. 

Dec.  4:th,  NowsHERA  (20  coss,  2-i  miles), — This  morning  up  and 
off  by  half-past  seven.  My  people  were  \sLzy.  I've  got  a  horse 
for  to-day,  who  has  the  charming  habit  of  kicking  every  few  min- 
utes, at  all  sorts  of  real  and  imaginary  objects.  A  mile  out  of  town 
I  found  the  chokidar  was  not  in  the  party,  and  I  had  to  wait  and 
send  back  for  him,  and  thus  lost  an  hour.  Continuing  on,  crossed 
a  small  stream,  and  an  hour  after  we  were  chmbing  up  the  straight 
side  of  a  mountain — a  regular  pull  over  slippery  rocks  and  loose 
stones. 

Two  hours  later,  reached  the  pass,-  where  we  found  some  police 
officers  stationed  to  prevent  the  Cashmerians  from  leaving  the 
country.  I  can't  say  how  many  hills  we' have  ascended  and 
descended  in  reaching  it.  At  this  place  I  found  a  man  with 
Madeira  nuts,  and  bought  some  to  pass  time  with  until  my  people 

24 


370  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

came  up.  We  then  descended  into  a  sweet  valley,  and  stopped 
to  lunch  at  a  miserable,  deserted  mud  tenement,  used  by  travel- 
lers. At  half  past  three,  pushed  on  much  against  the  inclination 
of  my  people,  passing  an  old  deserted  serai  (caravansary),  with  a 
fine  entrance ;  and  just  at  dusk  began  to  ascend  the  mountain.  As 
we  reached  the  top,  it  was  perfectly  dark — literally  "  darkness 
visible  " — not  a  star  to  be  seen,  and  the  only  sign  of  life,  the 
torches  of  wanderers  looking  like  fire-flies  in  the  distance. 

As  we  began  to  descend,  we  met  a  man  with  a  torch.  The  men 
immediately  seized  him,  I  persuaded  him  by  promise  of  pay,  to 
accompany  us.  After  we  had  gone  a  mile,  two  of  the  Coolies 
were  missing ;  and  going  back  to  look  for  them,  the  man,  (the  last 
Cooly,)  let  his  light  go  out  and  escaped ;  so  we  became  our  own 
torch-bearers,  and  trustiug  to  the  men  joining  me  in  the  morning, 
we  proceeded,  with  an  occasional  illumination  from  the  dry  grass 
on  the  roadside,  which  the  men  set  fire  to  for  lighting  some 
difficult  path  for  those  in  the  rear.  Luckily  there  were  great 
numbers  of  pine  trees,  from  which  we  got  cones  to  burn,  and  thus 
on  up  and  down. 

At  eleven  o'clock,  we  stopped  at  a  fakeer's  (a  religious  beggar) 
solitary  tenement,  to  buy  some  firewood  for  torches.  Without 
stirring  from  his  bed  he  shouted  that  he  had  none,  and  so  on  we 
went,  collecting  what  we  could  that  was  dry ;  for  with  our  other 
troubles  we  had  sundry  heavy  showers,  and  appearance  of  more. 

At  half-past  twelve,  we  crossed  a  small  stream,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  more  found  another  fakeer  whose  door  happening  to  be 
open :  we  pushed  in  and  helped  ourselves  to  torch  wood,  and  then 
came  on  to  this  building — a  bungalow  I  suppose,  its  dignified 
title,  though  very  airy  on  all  sides :  and  now  we  find  the  missing 
Coolies  have  all  my  cooking  utensils,  and  the  greater  part  of  my 
provisions.  However,  I  prevailed  over  my  servant's  caste  scru- 
ples to  make  me  a  little  meat  biscuit  soup  in  his  tin  cup,  and  at 
half  past  three  in  the  morning  I've  just  done  dinner,  and  am 
getting  ready  for  bed. 

All  of  us  are  well  fagged  out,  having  come  twenty -four  miles, 


I 


BARADYAH.  371 

twentj-tliree  of  which  I  walked.  The  horse  was  too  fatiguing, 
besides  the  risk  of  breaking  my  legs  or  neck,  for  twice  he  fell  on 
the  rocks,  and  rolled  over  on  me — luckily  with  no  damage,  but  a 
few  bruises  and  tight  squeezing.  And  yet  he  was  a  wondrous 
clever  brute  too,  in  bad  roads  ;  but  I've  never  seen  any  quite  as 
bad  as  these.  Though  a  good  walker,  between  the  bad  road, 
my  bruised  legs,  and  slow  walking,  I  feel  pretty  well  "  done  up" 
for  one  day. 

Dec.  bth,  Baradyah. — (10  coss.) — This  morning  I  had  an 
interview  with  the  cutwal  before  I  rose,  expressive  of  my 
different  wants,  horses,  Coolies,  etc.  I  rose  at  half-past  nine,  the 
day  beautifully  pleasant.  I  find  the  house  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
fruit  garden,  with  great  numbers  of  apricot,  plantain,  and  other 
hot  and  cold  climate  fruits.  The  flower  beds  are  brilliant  with 
marigolds  and  artemisias  in  full  bloom,  and  the  entire  place  a 
pretty  little  valley.  Half  a  mile  distant  the  town,  and  towering 
above  all  else,  an  old  fort. 

Early  this  morning  my  two  Coolies  came  in,  together  with 
some  friends,  who,  to  get  in  and  out  of  Cashmere,  had  put  them- 
selves under  my  wing,  as  the  best  chance  to  come  here  and  see 
their  families. 

At  twelve  I  started  my  people  off  again,  while  I  waited  for 
one  of  my  new  Coolies  to  go  and  get  his  breakfast ;  and  I  made 
him  leave  his  blanket  as  a  pledge  of  his  speedy  return.  Waiting 
patiently  an  hour  for  the  chokidar  to  arrive,  in  despair  I  started 
off  with  the  Cooly  and  my  head  servant. 

We  found  a  guide  by  the  way,  and  while  waiting  for  him  to 
get  his  blanket,  the  Cooly  laid  down  the  bedstead  he  was  carry- 
ing, and  when  we  were  not  looking  he  bolted;  thus  we  lost 
another  half  hour,  and  while  the  servant  looked  for  another 
Cooly,  I  watched  the  guide :  for  the  rascals  run  off  without  the 
least  reason,  even  after  they  have  sought  the  employment  and 
not  received  their  money. 

Presently  the  servant  appeared,  lugging  a  Cooly  along,  who 


372  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

seemed  to  be  quite  reconciled,  wlien  I  assured  him  he  should 
be  well  paid.  So  off  we  went,  I  on  foot,  unable  to  procure  a 
horse  by  buying  or  hiring. 

Nearly  all  day  we  have  been  travelling  by  the  side  of  a  stream, 
which  the  natives  call  Mungle  Debar  river.  On  over  the  hills, 
and  again  coming  to  the  river,  passed  a  small  fort,  evidently  built 
to  guard  or  command  the  valley.  But  unfortunately  it  is  itself 
commanded  by  every  hill. 

At  dusk  I  stopped  and  got  a  bundle  of  faggots  to  light  us  on 
the  way.  After  trying  in  vain  to  get  fire  from  my  rifle,  I  dis- 
covered a  hut,  and  so  on,  and  at  eight  stopped  at  a  fakeer's  to 
beg  some  more  fuel ;  and  then  on  to  a  large  caravansary  or  serai, 
where,  to  my  surprise,  I  did  not  find  my  people.  I  told  the 
guide  he  must  take  me  to  the  next  place.  He  coolly  observed 
we  would  have  to  cross  the  river,  and  I  had  better  sleep  here — a 
proposition  I  negatived  immediately,  not  relishing  the  idea  of 
sleeping  on  a  charpai  (native  bedstead  without  bed  or  bed  clothes, 
and  that,  too,  supperless).  So  we  started  back,  and  he  stopped, 
as  I  suppose,  to  arrange  his  torch,  and.  the  Cooly  seated  himself 
by  his  side,  while  I  and  my  servant  took  seats  on  a  couple  of 
stones. 

I  sat  shivering,  until  I  thought  they  might  have  arranged  half- 
a-dozen  torches,  and  going  to  see  what  was  the  matter,  I  found 
they  were  enjoying  a  fire  they  had  kindled  ;  I  soon  put  an  end 
to  that.  Soon  after,  the  guide  lost  his  way,  and  then  said  he  did 
not  know  it,  but  there  was  a  jemindar  (landowner)  near,  who 
did  know  the  way,  and  that  we  had  better  go  to  him. 

"We  retraced  our  steps ;  reaching  his  house  or  hovel,  the  guide 
pushed  open  the  door  "  sans  ceremonie,"  when  I  saw  three  or 
four  men  sleeping  on  charpaies  around  the  room.  In  one  corner 
stood  some  cattle  feeding,  in  the  centre  a  few  embers  burning, 
and  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  a  nearly  naked  native  ryot  (tiller  of 
the  soil),  enjoying  his  hookah.  The  guide  made  known  our 
wants,  when,  without  a  word  of  objection,  he  resigned  his  pipe 
to  the  guide,  began  to  chop  up  faggots,  and  throwing  an  old 


THE   PLEASURES  OF   TRAVEL.  373 

cotton  cloth  over  his  shoulders,  started  out  to  pilot  us  across  the 
river.  What  "  a  precious  row"  a  man  would  have  made  in  the 
United  States  or  England,  at  such  a  midnight  summons ! 

In  a  few  minutes  we  reached  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  walking 
across  the  dry  bed,  came  to  the  water,  about  one  hundred  yards 
wide,  and  from  two  to  three  feet  deep.  My  people  were  on  the 
opposite  side,  and  seeing  us,  rushed  down  the  bank  with  arms 
full  of  straw,  which  they  soon  had  in  a  bright  blaze.  My  last 
guide,  taking  me  on  his  back,  carried  me  across  the  stream ;  and 
the  water  being  deep  and  rapid,  he  was  very  near  giving  me  a 
ducking,  just  as  we  reached  the  middle.  But  I  luckily  got  over 
dry,  and  gave  him  what  the  natives  considered  a  munificent 
present,  a  day's  wages,  two  annas  (six  cents) ! !  I  expect  you 
will  smile  at  the  amount,  but  the  poor  wretch's  gratitude  was 
amusing  and  painful.  lie  appeared  as  though  he  had  never 
seen  so  much  money  before  in  his  life,  making  all  sorts  of 
salaams,  and  touching  his  head  to  my  feet. 

Our  crossing  would  have  made  a  fine  sketch  in  oil.  On  land- 
ing, my  beastie,  whom  I  have  converted  into  a  bearer,  from 
having  little  occasion  for  his  services  otherwise,  and  having  been 
in  that  capacity  before,  is  very  useful,  with  great  glee  took  me 
to  see  what  nice  rooms  there  were  in  the  house. 

Making  my  way  over  sleeping  Coolies  and  cattle,  with  an 
occasional  blazing  fire  threatening  a  general  conflagration,  we 
reached  the  rooms,  which,  from  appearances,  had  lately  been 
tenanted  by  cattle.  I  ordered  my  tent  to  be  pitched  forthwith, 
much  to  beastie's  amazement  at  my  want  of  taste,  and  knowledge 
of  comfort.  And  now  this  roaring  little  torrent,  that  has  been 
sounding  so  pleasantly  all  day,  will  be  a  freezing  lullaby. 

I  took  out  my  journal,  and  Hugel's  Tour  in  Cashmere,  made  at 
about  the  same  season  of  the  year,  but  had  only  got  a  few  lines 
of  my  journal  written,  when  I  fell  asleep,  and  was  woke  by  the 
clatter  of  knives  and  forks.  How  you  would  have  laughed  at 
what  I  call  pleasure,  to  have  seen  me  coiled  up  in  the  middle  of 
my  bed,  with  two  coats  on,  and  a  thick  great  capote  around  me. 


874  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

my  head  adorned  with  a  red  night-cap,  eating  my  sumptuous 
dinner,  of  a  plateful  of  what  a  Frenchman,  or  any  other  man, 
would  have  called  soup  maigre^  made  from  the  remains  of  a  grilled 
fowl  that  had  done  duty  at  three  previous  meals,  eked  out  by  the 
liver  and  gizzard  of  another.  I  was  too  cold  to  get  off  the  bed 
to  carve ;  and  the  whole  topped  off  with  some  raspberry  jam, 
and  a  tough  dough  cake,  which  the  very  servants  at  home  would 
not  have  touched ;  and  instead  of  cafe  noir,  it  was  the  noir,  for 
the  cows  had  gone  to  bed. 

Such  are  some  of  the  pleasures  of  travel.  I've  just  been 
interrupted,  by  my  guide  of  to-day  coming  in  to  ask  for  clothes. 
I  told  him  I  had  none  to  spare,  and  I  was  myself  a  shivering 
evidence  of  the  truth  of  the  assertion. 

Dec.  6ih,  Eajowrie. — I  had  an  awful  cold  night,  the  wind 
coming  down  from  a  range  of  snow-covered  mountains,  visible 
about  thirty  miles  distant.  After  trying  in  vain  to  get  a  horse, 
or  a  cutwal,  I  set  off  on  a  fifteen-mile  march,  half-disabled  by  a 
sore  foot. 

Our  march  to-day  has  wound  through  valleys,  and  by  the  side 
of  the  same  stream  as  yesterday,  crossing  it  many  times  in  its 
meandering  course.  Three  times  my  men  were  obliged  to  ford 
it,  and  I  too — ^but  on  the  back  of  a  Cooly.  I  saw  quantities  of 
fish  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  long  in  this  stream,  and  a  number 
of  men — sporting  ryots — perhaps,  catching  them  with  nets.  The 
only  thing  that  looks  the  same  all  over  the  world ! 

I've  just  been  instructing  my  servant  how  to  broil  me  a  fish, 
for  my  only  kettle  is  appropriated  to  soup,  and  I've  not  yet  got 
to  using  the  tea-kettle  for  more  than  one  purpose. 

I  saw  a  water-snake  in  the  stream  to-day — it  looked  like  home 
scenes.  This  afternoon  saw  one  of  my  Coolies  with  an  armful  of 
radishes,  as  large  as  my  wrist ;  he  had  begged  them,  and  I  levied 
tribute  on  him. 

The  Cashmere  valley  differs  in  one  respect  from  every  part  of 
India.     In  India  they  always  live  in  villages  or  towns,  while  here, 


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FACE  OF  THE  COUNTEY.  375 

on  every  side  peering  from  among  the  trees,  on  the  mountain  side, 
or  boldly  conspicuous  on  some  naked  rock,  are  the  huts  or  hovels 
of  the  present  ryot  occupants  and  the  ruins  of  former  ones. 
Occasionally  a  large  house  will  indicate  the  residence  of  a  jemin- 
dar  (owner  of  the  land).  The  country  is  badly  cultivated,  and 
almost  depopulated  by  the  tyranny  that  has  existed  for  some 
years  past. 

I've  passed  but  one  village  to-day,  and  that  about  two  hours 
ago.  Eeaching  this  place,  a  small  town,  I  find  the  usual  resort 
of  travellers  occupied  by  the  Eajah's  troops — a  cut-throat-looking 
set  of  noisy  rascals.  Not  having  any  professional  business  now, 
and  perhaps  having  heard  that  "music  hath  charms  to  soothe  the 
savage  breast" — they  have  found  occupation  in  singing  choruses 
in  "Dick  Swiveller's"  style,  " each  man  to  the  tune  he  knows 
best."  I  managed  to  get  shelter  by  fastening  up  my  tent  in  one 
corner  of  a  shed,  where  I  am  enjoying  "  otium  cum  dignitate  "  as 
best  I  can,  half  suffocated  with  smoke. 

Bee.  1th,  TuNNER. — After  a  noisy  night,  I  rose  at  six.  The 
cutwal  not  coming  when  I  sent  for  him,  I  went  and  brought  him 
along.  After  sundry  threats  I  reduced  him  to  terms,  when  he 
started  off,  saying  he  would  try  and  find  me  a  horse — the  last  I 
saw  of  him.     So  off  I  went  again  with  my  lame  foot. 

The  path  to-day  has  been  pretty  good,  winding  through  a 
valley,  and  several  times  crossed  by  a  mountain  stream.  Though 
the  snow-clad  mountains  were  full  in  sight,  I  found  my  umbrella 
a  pleasant  relief  from  the  sun — dangerous  even  in  Cashmere  in 
mid-winter. 

For  several  days  past  I  have  been  in  the  habit  of  cooling  my 
head  by  wetting  it  as  I  crossed  the  streams,  though  I  am  wearing 
one  of  the  best  kinds  of  solar  topics  (hat),  a  sort  of  casque,  made 
of  thick  straw,  with  sloping  rim,  a  hole  in  the  top,  and  pad  under 
it  to  protect  my  head;  an  inner  ring  with  pad  to  rest  on  the  head 
and  connected  with  the  hat  itself  by  small  straw  rings,  and  the 
whole  covered  with  cotton  batting,  and  a  roll  of  cotton  batting. 


376  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

an  inch  and  a  half  thick  around  the  hat  where  the  crown  joins  the 
rim,  to  protect  the  temples — the  part  most  liable  to  be  affected  by 
a  coup  de  soleil. 

In  the  snow  on  the  mountain  sides,  I  saw  great  numbers  of 
cypress-looking  trees.  Some  people  were  literally  thrashing  grain, 
by  beating  small  sheaves  against  a  board.  Towards  night  we 
passed  a  ver}-  large  "serai,"  and  came  on  to  this  place  which  I 
reached  by  dusk,  where  I  share  the  second  story  of  a  shanty 
with  my  servants,  and  a  lot  of  Sepoys,  who  until  my  arrival  had 
held  quiet  possession. 

The  place  is  so  full  of  smoke  (tobacco  and  wood)  that  I  present 
.a  most  dolorous  appearance.  In  the  march  to-day  I  passed  a  tree 
with  flowers  resembling  the  common  red  honeysuckle.  Our 
anarch  was  about  the  usual  length,  fourteen  or  fifteen  miles. 

Dec.  8ih,  Koortee. — This  morning  I  had  a  difficulty  with  my 
men,  who  refused  to  stir  till  I  advanced  half-a-month's  pay  besides 
what  I  had  already  given.  Not  being  able  to  get  them  to  come 
to  my  terms,  I  had  to  agree  to  theirs,  as  I  could  not  get  enough 
new  Coolies  to  take  their  places,  especially  in  this  spot.  However, 
I  got  a  miserable  apology  for  a  horse,  and  off  we  started,  my  two 
^servants  ahead  of  the  train,  and  I  bringing  up  the  rear. 

Quite  a  respectable  number,  since  with  my  two  servants  and  self 
we  count  seventeen,  as  everything,  tents,  luggage  of  clothes  and 
provisions,  eatables  and  drinkables  have  all  to  be  carried  on  the 
Coolies'  backs.  In  a  few  minutes  the  beastie  came  running  back 
to  me,  saying  one  of  my  hired  Coolies  had  run  away ;  so  I  sent 
him  to  look  up  another,  while  I  watched  the  "traps." 

While  waiting  I  discovered  an  old  tank  with  some  curious 
sculpture,  representing  a  procession  of  knights  in  armor  mounted 
on  horses  with  housings,  which  I  hastily  sketched.  Then  up  the 
mountains.  Just  as  I,  bringing  up  the  rear,  was  commencing 
the  ascent,  the  men  set  up  a  shout,  and  there  was  such  a  rustling 
:and  shaking  I  could  not  imagine  what  the  difficulty  was.  I 
thouo;ht  it  might  be  a  land-slide. 


DISCOMFORTS.  377 

Presently  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  distant  monkeys  scampering 
off — of  which  there  must  have  been  over  a  thousand  when  my 
men  first  shouted.  As  I  approached  the  summit  I  saw  a  patri- 
archal monkey  "taking  an  observation"  through  some  branches 
about  two  hundred  yards  off,  so  "  drew  a  bead  "  for  his  head — the 
only  part  visible,  and  dropped  him,  the  men  also  dropping  their 
loads,  ran  and  picked  him  up,  and  we  all  started  off  again,  the 
men  having  an  afternoon's  topic  before  them — my  skill  in  rifle- 
shooting. 

To-day  we  have  crossed  the  "  Arutna  Punjal"  mountain.  It 
was  covered  with  deep  snow,  half  melted,  making  the  ascent  and 
descent  horribly  disagreeable,  being  very  steep,  besides  wet  and 
slippery. 

Crossing  this  mountain,  I  saw  great  numbers  of  horse  chestnut 
trees  and  others  resembling  the  white  oak  and  elm.  I  have  col- 
lected three  more  varieties  of  seeds,  one  of  which  I  found  near 
a  stream — a  curious  cluster  of  red  pods,  which  I  shall  try  and 
preserve  in  its  original  state. 

Descending  to  a  valley,  I  wound  along  between  mountains 
covered  with  verdure  to  their  very  summits.  The  sides  of  these 
mountains  were  dotted  with  numerous  little  cottages,  in  terraces, 
all  looking  as  if  they  would  take  a  slide  together. 

I  reached  this  place  at  six.  It  is  a  quadrangle  surrounded  by 
buildings  of  the  poorest  kind.  They  wished  me  to  pitch  my  tent 
in  the  centre — perhaps  the  place  of  honor ;  but  as  it  was  a  mass 
of  deep  mud  I  feared  I  should  not  get  out  again.  Besides,  I 
might  get  damp  feet ;  so  I  declined,  and  have  got  a  room — such 
as  it  is,  dismal  and  dirty,  and  nothing  in  the  way  of  eatables  to 
be  bought.  I  have  had  to  satisfy  an  appetite  whetted  by  twenty 
miles  of  mountain  climbing,  with  some  poor  soup  and  a  little 
rice,  half  of  a  "  murghi  grill "  and  a  dough-cake  lie  on  the  table — 
but  they  must  make  the  "  dejeuner  a  la  fourchette." 

The  scenery  to-day  has  been  more  beautiful  than  usual.  At 
one  time,  on  the  top  of  the  snowy  range,  it  was  absolutely  mag- 
nificent.    A  single  coup  cCceil  was  the  valley  I  had  just  passed 


378  FEOM  WALL  STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

througb,  side  by  side  with  the  foaming  torrent  rushing  through 
grassy  meads  for  many  miles,  and  on  either  side  range  after 
range  of  lofty  snow-capped  mountains,  with  forest-clad  sides, 
the  distant  view  terminated  by  the  blending  of  mountain  and 
misty  horizon. 

The  setting  sun,  this  afternoon,  as  it  gilded  the  mountain 
snow  summits,  cast  momentary  rainbow  tints  that  strongly 
reminded  me  of  a  beautiful  view  I  once  had  of  the  Bernese  Alps 
from  the  terrace  at  Berne,  after  the  clearing  up  of  a  storm, 

Dec.  9th,  Punch. — Off  again  at  eight.  Our  march  to-day  has 
been  through  beautiful  valleys,  many  of  whose  hills  are  terraced 
to  the  summits,  though  at  present  but  thinly  peopled.  The 
work  shows  strikingly  the  labors  of  a  former  and  denser  popula- 
tion. The  valleys  are  also  terraced,  and  now  flooded  for  rice 
and  grain.  We  got  here  at  four  this  afternoon.  The  day  has 
been  very  warm.  Only  one  incident ;  I  fell  into  the  stream,  the 
source  of  the  Pir-Punjal  river,  while  trying  to  step  from  one  slip- 
pery stone  to  another  with  my  rifle  on  my  back.  Luckily  the 
water  was  only  two  feet  deep,  so  I  did  not  get  very  much  wet, 
but  too  much  so  to  be  comfortable,  with  the  wind  coming  down 
from  the  snow  mountains.  In  coming  in  I  passed  an  old  Mus- 
sulman fort  now  in  ruins, — formerly  it  guarded  the  plain. 

I  am  quartered  in  one  end  of  a  very  civil  old  fakeer's  esta- 
blishment. He  kindly  brought  me  plantains  and  nuts;  then 
showed  me  a  number  of  certificates,  among  them  one  declaring 
him  to  be  a  "humbug"  (a  stupid  display  of  wit  on  an  ignorant 
man).  Soup  maigre  from  murghi  grill  remains,  and  new  murghi 
grill  for  dinner.  How  would  you  like  to  have  them  generally 
twice  a  day  for  months,  and  badly  cooked  at  that  ?  They  are 
the  only  thing  to  be  got.  I  have  been  trying  to  persuade  one  of 
my  servants  to  go  to  the  town  and  hunt  up  a  butcher,  to  set  him 
to  kill  a  sheep,  offering  to  pay  handsomely  for  half  of  it.  But 
the  brute  is  lazy,  and  not  wishing  to  go,  presents  some  invincible 
obstacles  in  the  way  of  their  doing  it.     The  other  servant  is  sick 


A  fakeer's  cat.  379 

— but  as  liis  symptoms  are  not  in  my  doctor's  book,  I  administer 
by  guess — he  takes  medicine  beautifully!  Overhauling  my 
medicines,  I  find  the  damp  weather  of  last  summer  phizzed  off 
all  my  seidlitz  powders. 

I  have  been  repeatedly  interrupted  in  my  journal  by  stopping 
to  drive  out  a  big  cat — part  of  the  fakeer's  family — whose  dis- 
position is  evidently  predatory,  notwithstanding  the  holy  cha- 
racter of  its  master,  and  I  fear  it  may  be  to  the  detriment  of  to- 
morrow's breakfast.  Once  I  started  after  him  pistol  in  hand,  and 
would  have  shot  him,  only  I  feared  I  might  kill  two  brutes,  the 
cat  and  a  Cooly,  by  mistake,  instead  of  one,  which  would  delay 
to-morrow's  travel.  For  I  hold  it  is  not  sacrilege  to  kill  a  fakeer's 
cat  that  steals.  A  holy  man  like  him  should  have  an  orderly, 
decent,  and  well-behaved  family,  of  which  I  hold  this  said 
cat  to  be  an  unworthy  member.  All  the  evening  my  Coolies 
have  been  making  up  shoe  leather,  of  straw  rope,  for  sandals,  as 
this  kind  does  not  slip  on  ice  or  snow. 

Dec.  10th,  Allahabad. — I  was  woke  up  this  morning  long 
before  daybreak  by  the  noise  of  my  Coolies,  who  were  hard  at 
work  cobbling  their  straw-rope  shoes.  After  lots  of  trouble  I 
started  them  off.  The  roaring  of  the  mountain  torrents  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Punch,  being  like  the  ocean  surf  after  a  storm. 

All  day  we  have  been  winding  through  mountain  passes  and 
ravines,  or  climbing  mountains.  Owing  to  the  slowness  of  my 
men  I  am  obliged  to  stop  in  this  place,  which  is  only  three  quar- 
ters of  a  day's  march,  as  it  is  too  late  to  attempt  to  cross  some 
snowy  mountains  ahead.  However,  not  having  been  able  to-day 
to  obtain  but  one  horse,  I  gave  that  to  my  sick  servant,  and  was 
not  very  sorry  to  stop  after  sixteen  miles  of  such  travelling  as 
we  have  had. 

Really  I  fear  my  trip  into  Cashmere  is  to  be  a  pedestrian  one. 
To-day  it  has  been  damp  and  cool.  I  have  been  trying  in  vain 
to  instruct  my  servant  in  the  art  and  mystery  of  making  "John- 
ny cake,"  but  I  can't  get  him  to  make  it  of  the  proper  materials. 


380  FEOM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

he  considering  it  beneath,  the  dignity  of  his  master  to  eat  Indian 
meal  (they  grow  Indian  corn  here)  like  a  Cooly,  and  so  brings 
in  a  compound  of  grease  and  flour  that  would  give  a  Eosedale 
darkie  convulsions ! 

Dec.  11th,  Hyderabad. — This  morning  I  found  the  horse  of 
yesterday  and  owner  had  both  vanished  without  any  reason, 
though  only  half  paid ;  so  sick  and  well  were  all  off"  on  foot. 

We  had  a  slippery  scramble  for  four  hours  over  muddy  hills 
and  snowy  passes  before  we  were  able  to  reach  the  summit, 
though  we  had  lodged  last  night  half  way  up.  On  our  way  we 
passed  a  number  of  Coolies  and  petty  traders. 

The  snow  was  from  two  to  three  feet  deep,  but  the  air  was 
mild,  with  very  little  wind. 

The  view  was  magnificently  grand,  though  slightly  varied, 
mostly  of  range  upon  range  of  lofty  snow-covered  mountains, 
whose  sides  were  covered  with  lofty  firs  called  "deodars,"  or 
"  Gifts  of  God ;"  which  grow  large,  and  vary  in  size  from  two  to 
three  feet  in  diameter. 

Our  descent  was  rapid ;  the  path  steep,  slippery,  and  winding, 
so  we  came  down  per  force  on  a  trot,  though  great  care  was 
necessary,  for  if  we  had  missed  the  short  sudden  turns,  we  would 
have  had  a  disagreeable  leap  into  the  ravine,  a  thousand  feet 
below. 

Much  of  the  snow  had  turned  into  glazed  ice,  and  descending 
at  an  angle  of  forty-five,  it  was  rather  difficult  to  keep  the  centre 
of  gravity.  By  luck,  we  managed  to  get  here  in  safety  at  half 
past  two,  passing  great  numbers  of  chestnuts,  firs,  and  other 
fine  forest  trees.  Arriving  thus  early,  I  have  kept  the  rest  of 
the  day  for  Sunday,  and  ordered  a  sheep  to  be  killed.  But  I 
had  to  inspect  the  cutting  up  and  division,  as  I  promised  the  men 
a  part. 

My  stupid  butler  spoiled  one  of  the  legs  by  cutting  it  in  two, 
so  I  gave  him  a  lesson  in  the  butler's  art,  by  wallopping  him 
alongside  of  the  head  with  the  said  leg,  and  then  gave  it  to  the 


"humbuggy  very  much."  381 

men,  thinking,  perliajDS,  it  miglit  lose  mc  my  caste,  if  I  eat  it  after 
it  had  touched  him !  I  then  told  him  to  get  up  the  best  dinner 
he  could,  while  I  digested  two  of  Dr.  Edwards's  sermons. 

The  Coolies  are  having  a  regular  jollification  over  the  mutton 
I  gave  them,  and  having  dined,  they  are  doing  their  psalmody 
in  Hafiz's  sonsrs ! 

What  do  you,  good  people,  who  pay  a  shilling  a  pound  for 
lamb,  say  to  the  pick  of  a  flock  for  thirty-seven  cents !  True, 
it  is  neither  South-down  nor  Fulton  market,  but  it  is  Cash- 
merean,  and  especially  good  after  a  fortnight  of  soup  maigre  and 
murghi  grills. 

Dec.  12ih,  Uri. — I  passed  a  very  comfortable  night  in  my 
verandah,  with  tent  and  bed-cover  for  screens,  notwithstanding 
my  vis-d-vis  was  a  snow-covered  mountain  and  a  noisy  mountain 
torrent  between  us  to  "keep  the jpeace." 

This  morning  the  people  of  the  house  were  making  a  great 
noise — alternately  battling  with  the  Coolies,  then  turning  to  me 
would  exclaim  most  supplicatingly,  "  Sahib,  Sahib."  I  asked  the 
head  servant  what  the  difficulty  was,  he  coolly  replied,  without 
looking  up  from  his  work,  "  Nothing,  only  they  humbuggy  very 
much."  On  inquiring  of  the  people,  I  found  the  "humbuggy 
very  much  "  was  that  the  sixteen  Coolies  refused  to  pay  for  their 
provisions  of  yesterday  and  this  morning.  So  I  made  them 
"settle  up." 

Our  .march  to-day  has  been  up,  down,  and  over  slippery,  icy, 
muddy  hills ;  often  requiring  hands,  feet,  and  cane  to  keep  one's 
footing. 

I  passed  some  people  threshing  Indian  corn  with  a  single  long 
stick — the  old  style  with  us.  Part  of  the  road  lay  along  the 
brink  of  magnificent  ravines. 

At  half-past  one  we  reached  this  place,  when  my  rascally 
Coolies  refused  to  go  a  step  further.  I  tried  to  get  others,  but  I 
could  not,  the  people  all  taking  the  part  of  my  men.  So  I  have 
had  to  stop  and  thus  lose  half  a  day !     They  have  already  made 


382  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

me  lose  three  or  four,  which  I  can  ill  afford,  as  the  -wet  season 
sets  in  at  the  north  the  early  part  of  January,  and  makes  traveh 
ling  very  bad. 

There  is  a  curious  bridge  here,  made  of  twisted  twigs.  There 
is  one  rope  very  large,  about  a  foot  in  breadth,  for  path,  and  two 
side  ones,  as  a  rail,  occasionally  connected  with  the  one  you  walk 
on,  by  short  bars — as  it  is  a  suspension  bridge  over  a  rapid,  rush- 
ing torrent,  the  Jhelum  or  Ancieyit  Hydaspes^  about  three  or  four 
hundred  feet  wide,  I  have  not  a  head  quite  steady  enough  to 
attempt  crossing  it. 

Opposite  my  domicil  is  a  very  lofty  peak  of  the  Pir  Punjal. 
There  is  quite  a  village  here.  Most  of  the  places  I  have  hereto- 
fore stopped  at  have  been  only  collections  of  fifteen  or  twenty 
houses,  sometimes  not  so  many. 

Dec.  ISth,  NowsHERA  Serai. — At  sun-rise  (seven  o'clock)  I 
was  off  again,  as  usual,  on  foot ;  my  two  purwanurs  have  been 
of  precious  little  service  to  me.  I  have  scarce  rode  altogether  a 
whole  day  since  I  entered  Cashmere,  and  I  think  the  only  day  I 
had  a  horse,  my  servant  was  sick,  and  I  let  him  have  it.  There 
are  two  forts  here — one  on  either  side  of  the  river,  which  borders 
the  place,  and  in  fact  our  route,  until  we  reach  Shrenuggur,  the 
capital  of  Cashmere. 

Crossing  by  a  bridge  a  small  stream  that  rushes  foaming  and 
fretting  into  the  Jlielum,  we  ascended  a  steep  hill,  and  for  several 
miles  after,  our  path  lay  along  the  verge  of  an  almost  precipitous 
bank  of  two  or  three  hundred  feet  in  height — below  the  Jhelum 
ghded  swiftly,  except  as  it  furiously  foamed  and  roared  as  it 
swept  rapidly  over  and  through  occasional  rocks.  The  scenery 
was  superb — ^lofty  mountains,  some  with  snowy  crests  and  others 
a  mass  of  green  foliage  from  the  lofty  deodars,  bounded  the  view 
on  all  sides,  except  where  some  rugged  rock  boldly  jutted  out, 
or  scattered  hamlets  with  their  scanty  patches  of  vegetation. 

About  four  miles  from  Uri  I  passed  the  ruins  of  a  very  ancient 
Hindoo  temple,  now  overgrown  with  jungle,  which  I  sketched. 


THE   HYDASPES   OF   OLD.  383 

Then  some  Cashmerean  mercliants  with  apples  and  pears,  which 
I  soon  scented  out.  Stopping,  I  got  a  supply,  and  delicious  they 
were  after  an  interlude  of  three  years,  "barring"  the  few  which 
I  got  at  Madras  and  the  steamer  cockroaches  eat  up. 

Shortly  after  I  passed  the  small  village  of  Bonea,  and  then 
another  ruined  Hindoo  temple,  which  I  stopped  to  sketch,  joining 
my  men  again  just  as  they  reached  this  kennel  of  a  serai — damp, 
dark,  and  dirty,  but  warmer  than  a  tent.  I  have  been  consoling 
myself  with  a  saddle  of  mutton !  As  I  have  sat  long  enough, 
coiled  up  in  the  middle  of  my  charpai,  shivering  while  I  write 
with  my  portfolio  on  my  knee,  I'll  try  if  the  inside  of  the  bed 
is  any  warmer,  and  so  bid  good  night. 

Dec.  l^th. — Baramulla  and  Jhelum  Eiver,  (the  Hydaspes 
of  old). — Off  by  daylight,  and  since  I  have  been  passing  through 
valleys  and  rocky  formations,  the  latter  in  such  regular  layers 
they  looked  like  huge  masses  of  petrified  wood,  my  khansama,  a 
Cooly,  and  I  leading  the  way.  The  Jhelum  grew  more  tranquil 
and  less  rapid  as  we  approached  Baramulla,  which  we  reached 
in  about  five  hours  on  foot,  a  distance  of  twelve  or  thirteen  miles. 

We  crossed  two  or  three  hills,  one  giving  me  a  beautiful  view 
down  the  valley,  while  the  distant  snow-capped  mountains  and 
fleecy  clouds  seemed  almost  one  undivided  mass, 

Baramulla  extends  some  distance  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
and  is  quite  a  large  town,  with  large  houses,  many  having  pro- 
jecting roofs.  The  second  story  generally  recedes  about  two  or 
three  feet,  and  the  space  being  covered  with  earth  and  green  grass 
presents  a  very  odd  appearance.  Here  is  where  the  few  travel- 
lers or  officers  who  visit  Cashmere,  embark  for  a  sail  down  the 
river. 

Engaged  the  best  boat  I  could  find,  which  is  a  long,  narrow, 
flat-bottomed  affair,  with  a  peaked  roof  of  rush  matting;  the  front 
half  thus  roofed  I  occupy  and  locomote  half  crawling  and 
half  walking  from  end  to  end  of  my  domicil — my  cloak  or  tent 
forms  the  seat — the  table  two  battened  boards  resting  on  the 


384  FKOM   WALL   STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

cases  of  my  gun  and  rifle,  and  the  balance  is  appropriated  to  the 
khansama  and  beastie.  Here  they  cook  and  sleep.  Behind  them 
is  the  end  where  the  boatman,  his  wife,  and  three  children  lodge ; 
and  on  the  deck,  in  front,  two  of  my  CooHes  enjoy  the  midnight, 
with  a  mingled  canopy  of  sky  and  blanket — the  latter,  though 
less  beautiful,  is  probably  warmer.  The  rest  of  my  Coolies  I 
have  dismissed  to  get  out  of  Cashmere  as  best  they  can — the 
vagabonds ! 

The  river  here  is  about  150  yards  wide,  a  smooth  but  rather 
rapid  stream  at  present.  The  boat  is  "tracked."  Shortly  after 
dark  we  stopped  for  the  night  on  the .  borders  of  a  small  lake — 
the  Wallar,  The  wild  geese  and  ducks  are  giving  us  a  charming 
serenade — quite  delightfully  reminding  me  of  home  and  sporting 
there. 

Dec  15th,  Jhelum. — This  morning  we  passed  along  the  borders 
of  the  lake — a  sheet  of  water  about  eight  miles  by  two.  The 
light  breeze  that  ruffled  its  surface,  somewhat  retarded  our  speed — 
for  these  aborigines  row.  Thousands  of  birds,  cranes,  geese,  ducks, 
snipe,  and  gulls  darkened  its  surface  or  made  the  air  discordant 
with  their  (to  me)  delightful  music,  a  "music  of  the  spheres" 
that's  crazing  to  an  aquatic  sportsman.  Passing  through  the  lake 
and  a  small  island  with  a  ruined  temple,  were  again  in  the  Jhelum 
— and  now — at  anchor  for  the  night. 

The  day  has  been  lovely.  The  dark  clouds  of  the  morning  as 
they  sat  behind  the  snowy  range,  left,  by  their  sudden  disap- 
pearance, an  additional  charm  to  this  snowy  barrier  that  encircles 
OTir  view. 

I  quite  astonished  my  people  to-day,  with  a  bit  of  condescen- 
sion they  were  not  prepared  for.  The  poor  wretch  of  a  Cooly 
boy  sat  shivereing  on  the  deck,  with  half  a  spark  of  fire  in  his 
earthen  pot  (the  people  here  carry  a  small  earthen  pot,  like  a 
flower-pot,  in  a  small  basket,  which  they  fill  with  coals  and 
ashes,  and  carry  about  with  them  wherever  they  go ;  and  it 
answers  the  purpose  of  a  fire  and  fire-place  with  most  of  them), 


THE   CITY  OF   CASHMERE.  385 

trying  to  keep  himself  warm  witli  its  imaginary  heat.  So  I 
took  up  the  affiiir,  and  carrying  it  through  my  cabin  to  the  cook 
room,  told  him  to  fill  it,  and  I  then  took  it  to  the  boy  again, 
who  was  about  as  mueh  puzzled  what  to  make  of  this  simple  act 
of  good  feeling  and  sympathy  for  the  poor  wretch's  misery,  as 
the  servants  were. 

In  India  they  have  no  word  or  synonyme  for  gratitude,  or 
word  for  "thank  you,"  as  before  the  English  came  to  their 
country  they  had  no  occasion  for  either ;  and  when  a  kindness 
is  done  them  by  their  own  people,  it  is  for  some  ulterior  object ; 
and  thus,  they  suspect  every  one  else  of  the  same  interested 
motive ;  and  instead  of  really  thanking  a  European,  they  clasp 
their  hands  and  say.  Ha!  Sahib;  but,  nevertheless,  they  generally 
suspect  he  has  some  ulterior  object  in  view.  This  S3^stem  is 
carried  out  in  all  their  relations  of  life.  No  native  ever  tells  the 
truth  because  it  is  the  truths  but  because  it  hapjDcns  to  suit  his 
purpose  best.  He  may  perhaps  gain  something,  or  it  makes  no 
difference  either  way !  Nor  does  he  ever  suspect  an  European 
(I  use  the  word  European  as  being  the  distinctive  word  here  for 
every  person  who  is  not  a  native,  as  the  word  "  Frank"  is  some- 
times used  to  express  all  but  Mohammedans)  of  telling  the  truth 
for  any  other  reason  than  self-interest. 

Dec.  16//i,  Cashmere,  Kashmir,  or  properly  Shrenuggur. 
— At  last  I've  reached  this  long  anticipated  scene — the  pet 
project  of  my  tour !  This  morning  at  sunrise  there  was  a  thick 
haze,  and  as  it  cleared  off,  though  I  was  only  ten  miles  from  the 
city,  I  could  see  nothing  but  the  snowy  range  that  forms  the 
background  of  the  valley. 

At  half-past  eleven  I  came  within  sight  of  the  Tukht-i-Suliman 
(Throne  of  Solomon — a  lofty  hill  on  the  farther  side  of  the  city), 
,  and  the  Hurri-Purvat  and  its  fortress-capped  crest. 

"With  this  view  before  me,  I  made  a  bird's-eye  sketch,,  and 
included  in  it  a  forest  of  tall  poplars,  that  I  mistook  for  the  grove' 
which  Ackbar  planted. 

25 


386  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

A  few  minutes  after,  I  passed  one  of  the  first  marks  of  civiliza- 
tion— tlie  skeleton  of  some  poor  murderous  wretch,  I  suppose, 
who  had  been  starved  to  death  in  a  cage  suspended  from  a 
gibbet.  Then  passed  under  the  seven  bridges,  made  by  logs 
laid  transversely  for  piers,  and  with  bridges  connecting  them ; 
they  form  main  avenues  of  intercourse  for  the  two  parts  of  the 
town,  which  are  situated  on  the  two  sides  of  the  river. 

The  houses  generally  present  a  miserable  appearance ;  occa- 
sionally the  residence  of  some  wealthy  man  with  his  extensive 
zenana  (harem),  whose  apartments  are  closely  latticed,  like  an 
immense  aviary  or  state  prison;  mosques  with  tall  spires  or 
minarets,  built  of  cedar  (the  deodar). 

Then  the  Delawar-Khan-Bagh,  where  Jaquement,  Vigne,  and 
Hugel  successively  lodged  in  the  middle  of  the  city,  supposing 
it  to  be  divided  equally  by  the  river.  By  the  side  of  this  build- 
ing stands  a  mosque.  The  river  is  narrow,  perhaps  an  eighth  of 
a  mile  wide,  and  confined  by  stone  walls  and  houses  on  both 
sides,  built  on  these  walls  to  the  very  "  extremest  verge."  Stone 
steps  frequently  lead  down  to  the  water ;  and  near  these  steps 
are  great  numbers  of  boats,  many  like  the  one  I  have ;  others 
without  the  covering,  but  in  other  respects  the  same ;  and  others 
again,  down  to  the  smallest  quantity  of  buoyancy  capable  of 
floating  man,  secured  to  the  banks.  In  the  water  are  boxes  for 
men  and  women  to  bathe ;  for  ablutions,  if  one  of  their  virtues 
— often  the  only  one. 

I  then  passed  the  Shaherghur,  formerly  the  residence  of  the 
governor,  now  the  treasury  of  Goolaub  Singh.  On  up  the  river 
by  the  city,  I  came  to  an  open  place,  the  approach  to  the  coun- 
try, where  were  half  a  dozen  small  bungalows  for  the  ofiicers 
who  visit  this  place,  and  built  by  Goolaub  Singh  for  their  use, 
perhaps  to  gain  their  good-will — no  one  knows  but  he,  and 
doubtless  an  ulterior  object  to  be  gained.  He  is  too  great  a 
■villain  to  work  without  some  object. 

I  took  one  ;  my  beastie  picked  out  the  best  that  was  not  occu- 
pied.    He  had  been  here  with  F 's  brother,  and  knew  them 


LOW   SCALE   OF  "WAGES.  387 

all.  None  of  them  are  prepared  for  cold  weather,  so  I  bought 
three  new  mats  of  my  boatman  for  25.  and  6d. !  to  eke  out  my 
scanty  furniture.  They  nearly  cover  my  parlor  !  Then  hiring 
a  boat,  with  two  oarsmen  or  paddlers,  for  my  stay,  at  twelve 
cents  a  -day  for  boat  and  men ;  and  that  is  a  high  price  too,  so 

you  may  imagine  the  scale  of  wages  here.     F gave  IO5. 

a  month  last  year  for  the  same  affair.  I  then  sent  my  servant  to 
the  bazaar  for  a  chair  or  two,  some  provisions,  and  wine  or  beer; 
for  owing  to  the  warm  weather  when  I  left  Lahore,  I  had  neg- 
lected it.  When  the  man  returned,  he  said  he  had  asked  six 
storekeepers,  and  they  did  not  have  any  beer,  but  one  man  said 
he  had  a  bottle  of  wine  at  his  house  he  would  send  me.  As  for 
the  other  things  (native  like),  there  was  a  holiday  to-day,  but 
could  get  them  to-morrow.  It  being  so  late  when  I  got  located 
— to  use  an  American  term — I  have  not  been  out  to  see  anything. 

I  have  two  neighbors — officers — who  are  spending  the  winter 
here  shooting.  From  my  window  a  few  minutes  since,  I  saw  a 
fire  on  a  distant  mountain.  It  was  either  winding  up  or  down, 
but  in  this  way — the  blaze  extended  for  half  a  mile,  and 
looked  like  a  huge  fiery  serpent. 

To-morrow  I  shall  commence  my  sightseeing,  after  some 
shopping  for  comforts  in  the  bazaar.  At  present  the  tent  is  my 
fauteuil,  which,  with  a  hot  stone,  supports  the  dignity  of  your 
humble  servant!     The  stone  is  my  substitute  for  furnace  and  fire. 

There  are  no  fire-places  in  Cashmere!  and  a  brazier  is  one 
of  the  purchases  in  prospective. 

Bee.  17;A.— This  morning,  after  waiting  in  vain  for  Goolaub 
Singh's  moonshee,  who  was  to  have  been  here,  I  started  with  the 
servant  and  the  boat,  for  the  town  and  bazaars,  where  I  bought 
a  lot  of  chatties  (earthen  pots)  for  cooking,  etc.,  and  one  for  fire ; 
then  a  lot  of  eatables. 

I  was  in  a  native  sugar  manufactory — a  curious  affair.  I  tried 
in  vain  for  chairs,  and  have  only  a  chance  of  some  being  finished 
for  me  by  to-morrow. 


388  FROM   WALL    STREET   TO    CASHMERE. 

I  then  passed  under  tlic  various  bridges  (seven),  built  -witli 
layers  of  cedar  wood,  tlie  crevices  being  filled  witli  stone ;  the 
wood  being  laid  transversely,  they  look  like  a  funeral  pile :  it  is 
said  tliey  have  stood  in  this  way  for  more  than  five  centuries ! 
Leaving  my  servant  to  do  the  marketing,  I  went  home,  ajad  took 
a  walk  through  the  avenue  of  poplar  trees — two-thirds  of  a  mile 
long,  and  planted  more  than  a  hundred  years  since.  They  are 
not  more  than  from  one  and  a  half  to  five  feet  apart ;  they  differ 
from  ours  in  the  way  they  branch  out,  and  in  not  having  dead 
wood.  The  avenue  leads  from  the  city  to  the  foot  of  the  Tukht- 
i-Suliman,  and  the  Drogshuh — the  flood-gate  of  the  canal  lead- 
ing from  the  lake  of  Cashmere  to  the  Jhelum. 

Then  to  my  Cashmere  domicil,  where,  with  a  capital  dinner — 
soup,  canvas-back  duck* — and  a  chatty  of  charcoal  under  my 
feet,  and  feel  I  am  in  a  fair  way  to  be  comfortable ;  a  prospective 
chair — as  peculiar  as  imagination  can  well  picture — a  new  blanket 
to  wrap  up  in,  a  hot  stone  to  my  feet,  and  a  chatty  of  coals  to 
heat  the  room  by  day,  and  to  go  under  bed  and  keep  that  warm 
by  night. 

Dec.  IStk. — Last  night  was  the  most  comfortable  I  have  passed 
since  leaving  Lahore.     "Walking  out,  I  made  the  acquaintance 

of  my  neighbors — a  Mr.  P ,  of  the  Queen's  87th  Regiment, 

Royal  Irish,  Lord  Cough's;  Mr.  P ,  of  the  Company's 

service,  a  grandson  of  the  Marquis  of  A ;  and  C , 

also  of  the  Company's  service.  They  were  engaged  in  superin- 
tending the  trying  of  some  bears'  grease,  and  in  Indian  fashion. 
I  introduced  myself  After  a  pleasant  morning  together,  they 
asked  me  to  dine  with  them,  and  said  there  was  to  be  a  review 
of  the  Maharajah's  troops  in  the  afternoon,  and  they  would  call 
for  me  on  their  way. 

They  went  with  my  servant  to  town.      I  left  him  to  shop, 

*  I  found,  to  my  great  surprise,  that  this  luxury  of  the  American  market 
is  one  of  the  privileges  of  this  terrestrial  paradise,  so  that  Cashmere  is  endurable 
even  for  a  gourmand. 


GOOLAUB  SINGH  AND   HIS  TROOPS.  389 

while  I  went  to  see  the  Budh-shah  Mosque — an  old  ruin  with  a 
granary.  In  the  yard  attached  to  it  is  a  tombstone  with  a  Per- 
sian inscription — said  to  be  Moorcraft's.  Afterwards,  on  to  an 
old  Hindoo  temple  in  ruins. 

Here  is  the  tomb  of  Seynul-abd-al-Din,  the  second  Mussulman 
king  of  this  country.  He  introduced  the  art  of  making  glass, 
weaving  the  celebrated  shawls,  etc.  Then  to  the  Jumma- 
Musjid.  This  is  a  large,  square  building,  of  some  130  yards 
square,  with  a  fine  portal  on  each  side,  supported  on  the  inside 
by  cedar  pillars.  The  building  has  a  curious  tower  and  spire, 
more  like  a  Presbyterian  country  church,  than  a  mosque.  This 
building  is  very  old,  and  built  of  the  deodar  cedar. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  the  Naya-Musjid,  or  New 
Mosque,  commenced  by  Nul-Jehan.  It  is  of  veined  white  mar- 
ble, and  unfinished.  The  interior  is  low  and  arched.  It  is  now 
used  as  a  granary. 

On  my  way  home  I  met  P and  C ,  going  to  the 

review,  and  joined  them.  The  place  was  a  large  open  plain 
near  the  river,  just  below  the  Shahurghur — the  old  residence  of 
the  kings  and  governors,  and  now  used  as  such  by  Goolaub 
Singh,  the  present  Maharajah  (Great  King) — a  half-fortified  palace 
on  the  river  side. 

On  the  ground  we  found  the  troops  arrayed  on  the  four  sides 
of  a  plain  of  perhaps  six  acres.  There  was  cavalry,  regular  and 
irregular,  foot,  and  artillery,  in  every  possible  shade,  color,  style, 
and  cut  of  uniform ;  some  had  the  skirts  of  their  coats  separating 
behind  and  closed  before,  like  a  frock  coat  wrong  side  before. 
One  fellow  had  a  regular  European  black  frock  coat ;  others, 
yellow  trowsers  with  gold  stripes,  blue  coats,  red  foraging  caps 
with  green  band  and  peak,  etc.,  etc.  My  memory  serveth  not  to 
relate  all  their  odd  fancies — however,  the  most  of  them  wore 
very  sensible  uniforms  (in  cut)  for  the  hill  work,  and  with  the 
usual  leggings  to  strengthen  the  calf,  and  straw  shoes  to  prevent 
slipping  on  the  ice. 

In  a  few  moments  after  we  arrived,  the  Maharajah  appeared, 


390  FROM  "WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

in  a  palanquin,  accompanied  by  his  eldest  grandson,  a  cliubby 
little  fellow  of  five  or  six  years,  in  whom  he  takes  great  pride. 

P and  P both  cautioned  me  not  to  praise  the  child, 

or  notice  him  particularly,  as  the  natives  consider  it  bad  luck, 
and  that  you  may  give  the  child  the  "  Evil  Eye." 

The  Maharajah  salaamed  all  of  us ;  I  was  formally  introduced, 
and  we  all  shook  hands  with  him.  After  he  had  gratified  his 
curiosity,  asking  me  all  sorts  of  questions  when  he  found  I  was 
neither  in  the  military  nor  civil  service,  for  he  is  most  suspicious 
of  all  strangers,  we  mounted,  he  providing  us  with  horses  and 
Sikh  saddles.  The  stirrups  were  so  short,  my  feet  were  nearly 
tucked  under  my  arms.  The  Maharajah  had  several  beautiful 
horses  for  his  own  use,  and  had  but  just  mounted,  when  his 
grandson  refused  to  go  in  anything  but  a  crazy-looking  English 
phaeton,  and  then,  only  with  his  grandfather,  who  sent  to  ash  our 
permission  to  drive  in  it,  and  for  one  of  us  to  accompany  him. 

P got  in  with  him,  and  we  followed  on  horseback,  for  a  turn 

around  the  field.  On  the  way  we  passed  a  little  boy -general,  a 
natural  son  of  the  Maharajah's;  then  we  all  dismounted,  and  sat 
in  chairs,  while  the  troops  passed  in  review  before  ns.  The  time 
of  the  music  was  so  slow,  it  was  quite  ridiculous  to  see  the  men 
balancing  on  one  foot,  while  they  were  waiting  the  note  to  put 
down  the  other. 

Some  of  the  men  had  guns  with  double  bayonets — almost  a 
military  Neptune  a  terre.  One  had  a  gun  with  the  harrel  eight 
feet  long  !  After  they  had  all  passed,  the  Maharajah  conversed 
with  US  some  time,  while  the  grandson  took  a  ride,  escorted  by 
irregular  cavalry.  Eeturning,  we  started  for  our  respective  quar- 
ters. There  must  have  been  about  5000  men  on  the  field.  The 
cavalry  wore  brass  helmets  and  horse-hair  plumes.  Besides  the 
regular  troops,  there  was  a  more  useful  body — a  militia,  who 
were  dressed  in  the  ordinary  Cashmerian  style — a  short  sack- 
coat,  with  loose  trowsers,  and  leggings  with  straw  sandals. 
Then,  many  mountain  howitzers,  and  a  very  large  style  of 
blunderbuss,  to  be  fired  from  a  "  rest."      Most  of  the  arrange- 


WINTER  TEMPERATURE.  391 

ments  of  the  soldiers  were  adapted  to  skirmisliing  in  the  moun- 
tains. 

The  Maharajah  was  in  his  ordinary  style  of  dress.  He  had  a 
loose,  red  gown  and  trowsers,  both  of  pushmena  (the  unembroi- 
dered  material  of  Cashmere  shawls).  His  gown  was  lined  with 
flying-squirrel  fur.  The  gown  and  trowsers  were  very  richly 
embroidered,  and  worked  with  gold  thread  and  gold  braid. 
The  trowsers  were  tight-fitting,  with  leggings.  His  cap  of  push- 
mena, lined  with  fur,  and  over  it  a  white-and-gold  puggery 
(turban),  with  a  long  white  handkerchief  around  his  neck. 

The  eldest  son  is  at  Jamoo,  one  of  his  fortified  resorts  on  the 
mountains,  on  the  border  of  India.  The  second  son  was  on  the 
field — a  small,  thin,  active  man,  dressed  in  scarlet,  but  apparently 
with  little  of  his  father's  ability. 

Goolaub  Singh  is  of  medium  height,  stout,  and  his  naturally 
white  hair  and  beard  dyed  black,  but  is  fifty,  or  fiftv-five,  I  am- 
told. 

We  all  dined  with  P ,  who  has  got  his  house  in  order 

for  winter  quarters,  and  arranged  with  a  fire-place,  and  other 

accessories  of  comfort.     C will  start  to-morrow,  having 

leave  from  his  regiment,  for  England,  and  I  am  to  have  his  house,, 
where  is  also  the  luxury  of  a  fire-place. 

P ,  who  has  been  here  almost  every  winter,  shooting  for 

a  month  or  two  since  '50,  says  this  winter  is  remarkably  mild  ; 
last  year,  at  this  time,  the  ground  being  covered  with  two  feet 
of  snow.  The  thermometer  now  stands  at  about  20°  at  sunrise. 
Tn  the  middle  of  the  day  it  is  almost  as  mild  as  our  Indian  sum- 
mer, but  at  night  very  cold.  We  are  on  the  river's  bank,  which 
makes  the  air  rather  colder  for  us.  The  valley  is  a  table  land, 
5000  feet  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  a  snowy  mountain 
barrier,  varying  from  14,000  to  18,000  feet. 

To-morrow  morning  we  are  to  breakfast,  by  invitation,  with 
Mookti-Shah,  the  great  shawl  manufacturer  of  Cashmere,  and 
we  expect  a  right  jolly  time.  Each  of  our  kitmagars  has  been' 
ordered  to  take  knives,  forks,  spoons,  and  napkins,  for  their- 


392  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

respective  masters,  so  I  presume  it  will  be  somewliat  of  a  pic- 
nic. 

Dec.  19th. — This  morning  we  all  started  in  our  boats,  the  prin- 
cipal  locomotive  vehicle  here,  for  Mookti-Shah's.  He  received 
us  in  a  miserable  little  room,  about  fourteen  by  eighteen,  and  after 
some  conversation  breakfast  was  served, — and  such  a  lot  of  sweet 
things.  I  felt  as  if  my  whole  breakfast  consisted  of  a  pot  of  jam. 
We  then  asked  him  to  let  us  see  his  chogars  (cloaks,  admirable 
for  ladies  to  use  at  parties  or  operas),  shawls,  scarfs,  etc. 

The  chogars  are  made  of  "  pushmena,"  which  is  the  ground- 
work or  body  of  Cashmere  shawls.  Some  of  his  shawls  were 
very  beautifid,  especially  two  of  new  patterns :  one  of  $300,  tlie 
other  of  $325,  costing  about  $540  and  $590  in  New  York,  with 
exchanges,  duties,  transport,  and  care  thrown  into  the  profit  and 
loss  account.  But  the  shopkeepers  in  New  York  and  London 
make  the  profit  and  loss  account  a  very  heavy  item  in  their 
favor,  for  the  shawls,  when  they  reach  either  of  those  places,  are 
sold  at  about  500  per  cent,  profit  on  the  original  cost  in  Cashmere ! 
The  wholesale  dealers  in  London  paying  Mookti-Shah  £200  for 
what  he  asks  but  £50  for  in  Cashmere  ! 

In  a  day  or  two  I  am  to  visit  his  house  and  manufactory, 
when  he  will  show  me  some  that  are  handsome,  and  one  being 
made  for  the  Empress  of  France,  when  I  will  tell  you  more 
about  the  matter.  He  had  only  a  small  collection  in  his  house 
to-day,  and  we  could  not  wait  for  him  to  send  for  more. 

C and  I  started  for  the  Hurri-Purvat,  a  fortress  on  a 

hill  about  500  feet  high,  that  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city, 
lake,  and  surrounding  country.  The  fort  has  not  a  single  gun 
mounted,  and  at  present,  its  strength  is  in  its  height.  At  its 
base,  Ackbar  built  the  old,  and  now  ruined  city  of  Nargur-Nar- 
gur;  from  here  we  saw  the  Char-Chunar  Island,  named  from  its 
four  plane  trees,  of  which  only  two  are  now  standing. 

The  Shalimar  garden  is  seen  in  the  distance,  and  a  snowy  belt 
•of  mountains  on  all  sides,  varying  from  12,000  to  18,000  feet  in 


THE  DUSKY  BEAUTIES   OF   CASHMERE.  893 

height.  We  then  rowed  across  the  lake,  whose  beauty  is  spoiled 
by  the  shallowness  of  the  water ;  we  stopped  at  the  Neshad- 
Bagh  (or  Garden  of  Bliss),  which  has  been  very  handsome.  The 
summer-house  is  light  and  airy.  There  is  a  succession  of  foun- 
tains from  another  and  distant  summer-house,  all  falling  from 
one  into  the  other,  until  they  reach  this,  when  they  pass  through 
the  house  into  the  lake. 

We  only  stopped  here  a  few  minutes  for  C to  cut  some 

canes,  so  I  had  not  time  to  see  it  well.  The  view  from  the  bal- 
con}^,  or  upper  piazza,  is  charming.  I  find  Cashmere,  or  Shre- 
nuggur,  grows  daily  in  beauty,  even  at  this  dull  season  of  the 
year,  when  hardly  a  leaf  is  to  be  seen. 

The  sunset  views  are  lovely.  The  parting  rays,  as  they  gild 
the  snowy  peaks,  impart  a  pinkish  tinge  to  the  atmosphere,  that 
is  exquisitely  beautiful. 

At  home,  and  messed  together.     P gave  us  an  amusing 

account  of  some  cannon  practice  of  the  Maharajah's  he  had 
been  witnessing  this  afternoon.  To-morrow  I  shall  ascend  the 
Tukht-i-Suliman,  which  is  on  this  side  of  the  town. 

I  suppose  you  are  anxious  for  an  account  of  the  far-famed 
Cashmere  beauties,  perhaps  fancying  I'm  enamored  with  some 
fair  maid  of  Cashmere.  But  don't  be  alarmed ;  I  shall  not  lose 
my  heart  with  any  of  the  dusky  beauties  of  this  country — 
blondes  or  brunettes  being  more  to  my  taste.  The  men  are 
generally  of  medium  size  and  usual  build  of  country  people 
among  us,  only  not  quite  as  strongly  formed,  with  a  mulatto 
complexion,  but  with  considerable  of  the  "  Moses"  in  their  face. 
The  women  of  medium  size ;  very  pretty  figures ;  full  and 
round  ;  their  complexion  is  rather  lighter  than  that  of  the  men, 
from  less  exposure.  Many  are  pretty,  but  it  is  a  beauty  adapted 
only  to  their  style  and  dress,  like  a  pretty  squaw  with  us. 

Cashmere  beauties  would  not  become  our  dress  at  all.  They 
all  have  bright  dark  eyes,  which  light  up  almost  any  flice,  how- 
ever ugly. 

This  being  purely  a  Hindoo  and  Sikh  town,  the  killing  of  a 


394  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

COW  is  punished  by  death.  The  wretch  I  saw  hanging  in  a  box 
as  I  arrived,  had  been  hanged  for  that  offence,  and  so  rigid  is 
the  East  India  government,  that  no  officer  could  kill,  or  have 
killed,  a  beef  of  any  kind,  without  very  great  danger  of  losing  his 
commission. 

Dec.  20th. — After  brealdast  we  all  examined,  and  passed  an 

opinion  on  some  chogars  which  C was  buying  to  take  to 

England.     Then  they  went  to  the  city,  and  taking  P 's 

horse  and  my  portfolio,  I  gallopped  to  the  foot  of  the  Tukht-i- 
Suliman  (or  Throne  of  Solomon),  a  lofty  isolated  hill,  which  I 
climbed  up.  The  summit  commands  a  beautiful  view — the 
best  panorama  of  this  part  of  the  valley  of  Cashmere. 

Often  gazing  while  I  sat  down  to  sketch  a  general  view.  The 
cold  and  wind  were  so  great  in  this  exposed  position,  that  every 
minute  I  had  to  stop  and  rub  my  hands,  they  got  so  numb,  and 
every  few  minutes  take  a  run,  to  get  my  feet  warm. 

The  lake  seems  half  filled  with  marshy  formations,  most  of 
which  have  been  caused  by  the  "floating  islands"  becoming 
stationary,  and  extending  their  dimensions.  I  saw  the  Char- 
Chunar,  and  its  surviving  trees,  beyond  the  Shalimar,  celebrated 
in  Lalla-Eookh,  for  its  Feast  of  Roses.  On  the  top  of  this 
mountain  or  hill,  is  a  small,  but  curious  old  Bhuddist  temple, 
which  I  sketched  descending  the  hill.  In  returning  to  the  bun- 
galow I  saw  some  of  the  Maharajah's  troops  here  practising 
with  small  hill  guns  at  a  mark. 

After  dinner,  at  P 's,  I  had  a  grand  packing  up  and 

good-bye  ;  as  C starts  to-night  for  England,  on  a  "  three 

years'  leave,"  P accompanying  him  part  of  the  way,  as 

he  is  going  off  on  a  shooting  excursion  for  some  days,   and 

to-morrow  P and  I  start  in  the  opposite  direction,  on 

horseback,  for  Islamabad,  our  things  starting  to-night. 

C gave  me  a  letter  of  introduction  to  an  ofiicer  friend 

of  his,  in  the  9th  Native  Infantr}^,  at  Peshawur,  with  whom  he 
wishes  me  to  stay,  and  P has  mailed  one  to  Rawul-Pindee, 


NOVEL   METHOD   OF   FISHING.  395 

to  an  officer  in  liis  regiment  (the  87tli  Queen's) ;  and  P 


wrote  another  to  a  civilian,  to  have  an  escort  meet  me  on  the 
road  the  day  I  expect  to  return,  for  protection  from  the  hill- 
people,  between  Mazzeflferabad  and  Hazara,  the  country  being  a 
little  unquiet  there.     I've  truly  fallen  among  friends. 

Dec.  1\st. — Last  night  I  turned  into  C 's  room  as  he 

turned  out.  The  rats  making  the  bed-room  a  "  race-course  "  at 
night,  are  more  than  a  fair  offset  to  the  luxury  of  a  fire-place. 

This  morning  I  rode  to  the  city  with  P ,  to  order  some 

seals  to  be  cut  for  me,  with  Persian  letters,  during  my  absence. 
I  believe  I  have  recollected  nearly  all  my  relatives  and  friends, 
the  others  must  excuse  me. 

We  then  gallopped  after  the  boats,  which  we  overtook  about 
eleven.  While  breakfast  was  preparing,  we  amused  ourselves 
watching  some  natives  who  were  fishing  in  (to  us)  a  most  novel 
manner.  Four  men  were  in  a  boat  rowing,  and  a  fifth,  naked, 
stood  in  the  bows  watching  for  fish.  The  moment  he  saw  one 
near  enough,  he  leaped  overboard,  and  caught  it  in  his  hands! 
We  bought  some  of  them,  which  weighed  from  one  to  two 
pounds. 

After  breakfast  we  took  our  guns,  and  went  after  wild  ducks, 
of  which  there  were  great  numbers  in  a  marsh  near  the  river, 
the  men  continuing  to  "  track"  the  boat.  The  ducks  were  so 
wild  from  being  shot  at  by  the  natives  and  the  officers,  that  we 
could  not  get  near  them.  We  saw  two  jackals,  and  a  fox.  At 
dusk  we  stopped  to  dine,  when  we  had  a  quarrel  with  the  vil- 
lagers because  they  would  not  sell  us  firewood,  eggs,  and  milk. 
However,  we  got  these  commodities  at  last,  after  a  fight,  in  which 
we  raised  a  "general  muss"  in  the  town,  knocking  in  doors,  and 
thumping  the  people  about.  Invigorated  by  our  performances, 
we  gave  the  cook  no  cause  to  complain,  as  we  disposed  of  his 
viands  before  a  large  fire  in  the  open  air. 

Dec.  22. — Eeached  another  ducking  ground  this  mormng,  so 


396  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

after  breakfast,  before  a  large  fire  on  shore,  we  started  off.  Saw 
thousands  in  the  several  marshes.  To  get  shots  we  had  to  plunge 
into  the  marsh,  mud,  water,  and  ice,  above  our  knees,  and  not 
particularly  comfortable,  as  we  only  had  on  shoes,  and  the  water 
rather  cold  at  this  season. 

We  wandered  about  in  this  style  for  three  or  four  hours.  I 
got  a  distant  shot  at  a  jackal  which  I  wounded.  We  returned  to 
the  boat  with  eight  ducks,  not  very  good  luck,  but  we  had  the 
fun  and  sport. 

While  we  were  eating  breakfast,  our  chicarries  (hunters),  and 

P 's  horse,  and  syce,  came  in.     They  had  been  marching, 

looking  very  melancholy,  and  said  they  had  been  beaten  by 
some  villagers  because  they  had  asked  for  feed  and  lodging  for 
the  horse,  and  one  untied  the  corner  of  his  blanket  and  produced 
a  bunch  of  hair  which  he  said  had  been  pulled  out  of  his  head 
in  the  fight.  They  did  not  meet  with  much  sympathy — for  we 
laughed  at  them  for  allowing  the  villagers  to  beat  five  stout  men 
who  had  a  double-barrelled  gun  to  defend  themselves  with. 

After  we  returned  from  shooting  we  tracked  on,  amusing  our- 
selves with  rifle  practice  on  the  Pariah  (wild  or  common  cur)  dogs 
that  were  on  the  shore,  two  or  three  hundred  yards  from  us.  At 
dusk,  we  stopped  and  dined  on  the  bank. 

The  sunset  was  beautiful,  and  the  lofty  "Pir-Punjal  (18,000 
feet),  looked  magnificent  as  the  setting  sun  gilded  his  snowy  sum- 
mit.    This  evening  P ,  who  has  been  here  nearly  a  year 

on  sick  leave,  has  been  reading  extracts  from  his  journal,  inci- 
dents and  matters  he  has  seen,  and  heard  from  his  friends  who 
have  seen  or  known  about  them.  Among  other  matters,  the 
avarice,  oppression,  and  cruelty  of  Goolaub  Singh,  who  is  admit- 
ted to  be  the  wealthiest  man  in  India,  and  which  he  has  scattered 
all  over  the  country  for  safety.  Part  is  in  a  secret  place  in  the 
fort  at  Jamoo,  which  was  constructed  a  few  years  ago,  and  to 
preserve  the  secret,  the  men  who  built  it  were  destroyed. 

Wood  is  a  monopoly,  belonging  to  Government.  On  the  birth 
of  every  lamb,  the  owner  must  pay  a  tax  of  one  anna  (3  cents,  a 


'  CRUEL   PUNISHMENTS.  397 

full-grown  sheep  being  worth  but  about  36  cents) — the  birth  of  a 
calf  is  four  annas.  For  a  marriage  one  rupee  (50  cents,  11  days 
wages) !  Every  shop  in  the  city  pays  a  tax  of  three  annas  a  day. 
A  fishing  boat  four  annas  a  day.  Walnut  trees  ten  annas  a  year 
for  the  oil,  and  if  the  crop  fails  must  be  made  up  with  Ghee  (a 
kind  of  butter).  It  is  computed  that  seven-eighths  of  the  land 
produce  reaches  Goolaub-Singh's  pockets. 

The  shawl-manufacturers  pay  thirty-three  per  cent,  of  their 
value,  in  addition  to  the  raw  material  which  comes  from  Ladak  in 
Thibet,  paying  three  hundred  per  cent,  duty,  on  coming  into  the 
country.  After  the  grain  is  harvested,  it  must  be  stacked  and 
remain,  until  the  government  assessors  report  and  the  King 
chooses  to  fix  the  rate  of  the  tax.  Sometimes  it  is  two  or  three 
months.  In  the  meanwhile  the  poor  wretches,  if  they  have  none 
of  the  old  croj)  left,  are  obliged  to  subsist  on  turnips  (almost  the 
only  vegetable)  and  herbs. 

A  month  or  two  since,  an  officer,  in  passing  through  the  coun- 
try, saw  in  one  of  the  villages,  three  persons  being  punished  be- 
cause the  donkey  of  one  had  broken  loose  and  eaten  from  a  stack 
of  grain,  and  the  other  two  for  taking  a  little  from  one  of  their 
own  stacks  before  the  stack  had  been  assessed. 

The  first  was  punished  by  having  his  hands  tied  tightly  together 
over  a  stick,  and  then  hung  on  the  branch  of  a  tree,  the  bit  of 
stick  resting  on  the  branch ;  the  blood  was  flowing  from  his  nails. 
The  other  two  were  tied  back  to  back,  and  each  obliged  to  hold 
the  other  on  his  back  for  a  certain  number  of  hours,  and  if  he 
allowed  the  man  on  his  back  to  touch  the  ground,  he  was 
severely  flogged. 

Two  or  three  months  ago  another  officer  had  his  carpet  bag 
cut  open,  and  150  rupees  taken  out.  Suspecting  his  boatman,  he 
made  a  complaint  against  him,  and  he  was  taken  in  custody,  and 
it  was  afterwards  ascertained  that  a  confession  was  extorted  from 
him  (it  happened  to  be  a  true  one  in  this  case,  he  being  the  cul- 
prit), by  an  incision  made  in  his  side,  and  chillies  and  red  pepper 
put  in  until  he  confessed  and  restored  the  property. 


898  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

A  year  ago,  three  SejDoys  were  flogged  to  death  for  killing  a 
cow.  No  native  dare  appear  before  the  King  in  a  handsome 
dress,  for  fear  the  King  will  beg  it  away.  He  has  been  known 
to  beg  a  dress  from  a  ISTautch  dancer. 

The  sale  of  the  country  by  the  English  to  Goolaub  Singh, 
was  a  most  extraordinary  piece  of  misgovernment,  and  ill-judged 
strength. 

After  they  had  conquered  the  Punjaub,  this,  as  a  dependency 
of  that  province,  fairly  belonged  to  the  English ;  but  Lord  Gough 
had  made  such  bungle  of  the  war,  and  was  so  near  an  utter  de- 
feat, that  the  Governor-General  and  Council  were  frightened  for 
fear  the  scattered  Sikhs  would  rally  around  Goolaub  Singh, 
so  that  when  after  the  war  he  offered  to  pay  the  whole  expenses 
of  the  campaign  if  they  would  confirm  him  as  King  of  Cashmere, 
and  let  him  have  the  country,  they  gladly  consented  !  And  now 
he  tyrannizes  as  he  pleases,  and  keeps  the  people  in  the  most 
abject  poverty,  not  even   allowing  them  to  leave  the  country- 

P says  about  fifty  escaped  in  a  body  a  month  ago,  by 

bribing  the  chokidar  stationed  at  the  Pass.  The  country  is  very 
fertile,  and  well  watered,  and  admirable  climate  for  a  military 
sanitarium.  It  might  have  been  the  main  avenue  for  all  the 
commerce  of  Central  Asia,  which  the  high  duties  now  drive 
away.  There  are  no  savage  marauding  tribes  to  interfere  with 
it,  as  on  the  western  borders. 

Dec.  23(:/,  Petigoo  Camp. — This  morning,  reaching  Bigbahan 
before  daylight.  We  sent  off  the  chupprassy  for  Coolies  and  a 
horse,  staying  our  appetites  with  a  crust  of  bread  and  cup  of  tea. 
While  the  Coolies  were  being  arranged  one  ran  away,  and  we 

had  an  amusing  chase  after  him.     P jumped  on  his  pony 

and  spurred  off  at  full  gallop.  My  bearer  was  putting  on  my 
shoes  as  I  sat  before  the  fire  eating.  I  started  off  on  foot  with 
crust  of  bread  in  hand,  with  one  shoe  and  a  slipper,  while  a  part 
of  the  servants  joined  in  the  hue  and  cry,  assisted  by  the  village 
authorities. 


A   SACRED    FISH-TANK.  399 

The  dholy  {washerman,  a  part  of  one's  usual  establishment) 
caught  him,  and  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe  was  freely  quoted  by 
him  and.  the  authorities.  (When  the  officers  flog  their  servants 
or  the  Cashmereans,  who  are  such  rascals  they  are  very  apt  "to 
catch  it "  every  few  days,  they  term  it  quoting  that  dear  delightful 
woman  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe,  or  else  giving  them  Uncle  Tom.) 

We  then  started  part  of  our  people  for  this  place  with  tents, 
etc.,  the  rest  for  Mattun,  half  way,  six  miles,  where  we  break- 
fasted, stopping  en  route  to  shoot  ducks,  getting  eight  or  nine- 
We  breakfasted  under  some  noble  old  plane  trees — the  same  as 
our  sycamore.  I  saw  a  sacred  fish-tank.  They  are  so  numerous 
that  when  food  is  thrown  in  to  them  they  come  in  such  quanti- 
ties they  can  hardly  move.  On  our  way  we  stopped  at  some 
rather  celebrated  caves ;  one  is  in  the  rocks  about  a  hundred  feet 
above  the  road,  some  eighty  yards  in  depth,  and  from  three  to 
five  wide;  dark,  damp,  and  disagreeable,  with  nothing  to  see 
but  a  Mussulman  grave  in  a  Hindoo  cave,  with  an  old  tomb- 
stone of  a  knight  in  armor  and  caparisoned  horse.  The  other 
cave  just  beyond  has  been  converted  into  a  Bhuddist  temple 
and  the  front  walled  up.  It  has  a  door  and  sculptured  portal. 
The  caves  are  both  fissures  in  the  rock. 

Then  on  here,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  When  we  arrived 
we  found  the  tents  pitched,  and  a  fine  fire  before  them.  The 
tents  being  well  carpeted  ivith  straiu,  we  hope  for  a  comfortable 
night.  Unfortunately  two  of  our  chicarries  had  to  stop  on  the 
way,  one  of  them  having  lost  a  child  by  the  small-pox,  which  is 
very  prevalent  among  the  children  here. 

Dec.  24:ih. — This  morning  up  with  the  sun,  though  the  ther- 
mometer stood  at  22°,  and  was  soon  rigged  out  in  a  suit  of 

P 's  hunting  clothes,  consisting  of  a  flannel  hunting-shirt,  a 

pair  of  flannel  pejamurs  (loose  dressing  trowsers),  tight  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  leg,  around  which,  from  ankle  to  knee,  was  a 
close  bandage  to  support  the  leg  in  climbing  hills,  a  pair  of  thick 
woollen  stockings  with  a  thumb  for  the  great  toe,  then  a  pair  of 


400  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

straw  shoes  (as  they  are  called),  being  only  a  straw-rope  sole  and 
rope-band,  in  fact  sandals,  secured  by  a  thong  between  the  great 
toe  and  the  others,  and  then  around  the  instep  and  heel. 

After  a  cup  of  tea  before  the  fire,  we  were  off,  each  with  a 
long  staff,  our  guns  and  rifles  being  carried  by  the  four  chicar- 
ries.  Two  CooHes  led  the  three  dogs,  another  brought  the 
breakfast,  and  another  our  coats  and  shawls  for  us,  when  we 
stopped  for  breakfast.  For  one  has  to  dress  very  thinly  when 
they  have  such  mountain-climbing  to  do,  and  yet  get  in  an  awful 
glow  going  up  hills  of  from  five  to  twelve  hundred  feet ;  or  if 
by  any  accident  we  should  be  kept  out  all  night. 

I  found  these  sandals  most  comfortable  to  walk  in,  the  only 
safe  ones  in  bad  places,  icy  cliffs,  and  steep  slippery  hill-sides, 
where  one  mis-step  might  give  you  an  unexpected  slide  of  a 
thousand  feet,  or  a  somerset  over  a  cliff.  It  is  astonishing  how 
you  stick  to  the  snow  with  them,  like  a  pair  of  hands.  Our 
game  is  to  be  anything  we  can  find,  particularly  barasingh  (a 
species  of  stag  with  immense  antlers)  or  bears. 

We  heard  a  musk-deer  call  on  our  way  up  the  mountain,  but 
could  see  nothing  of  him.  After  climbing  and  wandering  about 
for  three  hours,  we  took  a  cold  breakfast,  and  off  again.  The 
hunters  started  a  stag,  but  he  was  four  hundred  yards  away 
before  we  could  get  a  glimpse  of  him. 

Just  as  we  reached  the  base  of  the  hill  our  best  dog  sprung 
loose,  and  plunged  into  the  jungle.  Fifteen  minutes  after  we 
saw  two  barasingh  come  out  of  the  jungle  near  the  summit  of 
the  mountain  and  separate.  The  dog  ran  after  one  and  followed 
him  into  the  jungle  again,  the  other,  a  very  tempting  object  to 
us,  even  at  a  distance  of  fifteen  hundred  feet  of  hard  climbing, 
and  half  an  hour  of  sun.  But  we  deemed  prudence  best,  and 
left  him. 

On  our  way  to  the  tents,  where  we  arrived  shortly  after  sun- 
down, we  heard  a  leopard  call.  So  much  for  my  first  day — ter- 
ribly severe  climbing  for  a  level-ground  man.  The  snow  melt- 
ing, together  with   the   wood-cutters   and  grass-burners,  have 


INSOLENCE   OF  THE   CASHMEREANS.  401 

witliin  four  days  driven  most  of  tlie  deer  awaj^  The  burners 
set  fire  to  tlie  grass  tliat  grows  during  the  summer  tliree  feet. 
We  have  been  trying  to  console  ourselves  for  the  fatigue  and 
bad  luck  to-day  with  a  good  dinner,  whiskey  toddy  "night- 
cap," and  toasting  ourselves  over  a  blazing  camp-fire. 

P 's  chupprassy,  who  had  been  sent  out  for  eatables, 

came  back  and  reported  that  the  head-man  of  the  village  had 
refused  to  sell  him  anything,  saying,  "he  didn't  care  for  the 
two  officers."  "  What,"  says  the  chupprassy,  "  not  when  the 
Maharajah  himself  salaams  them?"  "No,  the  swine  eaters." 
"You  abuse  the  man  whose  salt  I  eat,"  with  wdiich  he  applied  his 
staff  a  la  "Uncle  Tom"  to  the  fellow's  shoulders,  whereupon  he- 
lowered  his  tone  and  body  too,  for  he  went  on  his  knees,  and; 
begging  pardon,  sold  all  we  wanted,  and  sent  a  horse  for  to- 
morrow, and  a  cow  for  milk.  This  Afghan  chupprassy  is  a 
splendid  fellow ;  he  don't  often  use  blows,  but  when  he  does  it 
is  with  effect. 

These  Cashmereans  arc  most  singularly  insolent,  lazy  and 
disobliging.  The  travellers  (officers  or  civilians),  for  they  are  the 
only  travellers  hereabouts,  and  then  only  when  thev  get  sick, 
leave  and  "  do  John  Compan}',"  and  so  much  in  debt  usually, 
they  come  here  because  their  creditors  will  not  let  them  leave 
the  country.  Within  the  past  two  j-ears  they  have  scattered  so 
much  money  in  their  shooting  excursions,  they  have  nearly 
doubled  the  price  of  everything  (the  English  do  wherever  they 
go),  sheep,  poultrj^,  grain,  etc.,  besides  paying  cash  at  nearly 
double  the  value  of  every  article. 

Dec.  2oih. — As  m}^  day  is  twelve  hours  in  advance  of  yours,  I 

send  you  the  first   "  merry  Christmas."     P and  I  did  not 

hang  up  our  stockings  last  night,  as  the  tents  have  no  chimneys, 
and  "  Santa  Glaus"  has  never  been  known  to  enter  a  habitation 
in  any  other  way. 

But  P and  I  shouted  "  merry  Christmas  "  to  each  other^ 

long  before  we  were  disposed  to  leave  our  beds. 

26 


402  FROM   WALL   STliEET   TO   CASHMERE. 

After  a  cup  of  tea,  we  rode  over  to  the  ruins  of  Koran-Pandan 
(called  Temple  of  the  Sun)  though  actually  a  Bhuddist  temple. 
It  is  situated  in  a  court-yard,  with  fine  portals,  and  cells  on  every 
side,  the  temple  being  in  the  centre.  On  the  brow  of  a  hill 
overlooking  the  plain,  stand  two  columns,  to  which  was  suspended 
a  large  drum  (formerly)  to  call  people  to  prayer.  It  is  the  first 
o'um  I  have  seen  in  India. 

According  to  tradition,  it  was  one  of  the  last  works  of  the 
Pandan  dynasty,  who  disappeared  2500  B.C.,  after  a  reign  of 
1300  years. 

Hugel  supposes  the  ancient  Shrenuggur  (Kashmir)  to  have 
stood  here ;  Cashmere,  or  Kashmir,  being  the  new  name  given 
to  the  city  and  country  by  the  Mussulman  conquerors.  We 
breakfasted  among  the  ruins,  and  after  some  sketches,  returned 
to  our  tents  in  the  afternoon,  where  we  found  a  man  waiting  to 
sell  us  a  musk-deer — a  beautiful  little  creature,  about  eight  months 
old,  and  eighteen  inches  high.  But  its  hind-quarters  were  almost 
as  muscularly  developed  for  its  size  as  the  kangaroo's.  They  are 
.astonishingly  active. 

A.t  dinner  we  did  the  best  we  could  to  celebrate  the  day; 
made  our  cook  "  lay  himself  out "  for  "  Soyer  touches,"  and  when 
we  had  gratified  his  pride  and  our  capacities  with  knife  and  fork, 
we  drank  toasts  to  our  absent  friends  and  the  healths  of  our 
present  selves,  many  returns  of  the  day,  and  all  the  stereotyped 
sentiments  which  two  fellows  with  nothing  to  do  but  kill  time,  and 
pass  the  evening  pleasantly  with  fun  and  jokes,  could  get  up. 

After  we  had  exhausted  our  wit  and — the  bottles,  we  adjourned 
•to  the  drawing-room' — the  camp-fire  for  coflee, — made  of  hot 
water,  sugar,  and  whiskey,  like  paddy's  "  tay  "  "  that  he  made  of 
•the  coffee  'he  stole." 

Dec.  26fh. — 'Off  early  this  morning  with  a  lot  of  Coolies  to  beat 
the  jungle,  and  to  help  the  number,  one  of  my  men  who  was 
seized  with  a  sudden  lameness  when  he  found  he  was  detailed  for 
■ff/m  business.     The  poor  creatures  are  unfortunately  delicate,  and 


UNSUCCESSFUL   SPORTING.  403 

SO  subject  to  sudden  illness  when  cany  disagreeable  work  is  to  be 
performed. 

On  tlie  way  to  the  hills  we  stopped  at  a  house  and  made  a  levy 
of  three  more  Coolies.  AVe  consider  it  a  matter  of  humanity  to 
these  poor  abused  wretches,  to  make  them  do  wholesome  work 
for  i(s — when  we  come  here  for  pleasure  and  health,  and  pay  them 
triple  their  best  wages  here. 

P has  been  in  an  awful  fright  all  day.     He  has  heard 

that  a  child  was  sick  with  the  small-pox  in  the  house  where  we 
made  the  levy  to-day.  Just  before  reaching  the  stalking  ground, 
one  of  our  dogs  broke  loose.     We  soon  heard  him  barking.     I 

followed  with  two  of  the  chicarries,  the  others  with  P and 

the  fifteen  Coolies  stopped  ;  P having  given  up  in  disgust, 

thinking  the  day's  sport  was  spoiled. 

After  an  awful  scramble  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  at  a  rapid  pace, 
up  a  high  hill,  in  which  a  Mississippi  high-pressure  steamer  would 
have  been  child's-play  to  my  puffing  and  blowing,  I  got  sight  of 
seven  barasingh,  two  of  them  bucks.  They  were  more  than  400 
yards  up  hill,  but  I  could  get  no  nearer,  so  I  fired  with  a  heavy 

single-barrelled  rifle  of  P 's,  and  missed,  then  with  my  little 

German  rifle,  I  dropped  one,  hitting  him  in  the  shoulder.  They 
had  not  caught  sight  of  me,  so  I  loaded  the  same  rifle  again  and 
fired.  The  ball  struck  the  ground  just  behind  the  forefoot  of  the 
other  buck.  I  saw  the  dust.  The  noise  frightened  them,  and 
they  started  off  over  the  hill,  the  wounded  one  managing  to 
hobble  along.  We  hurried  up  another  hill,  to  head  them  off,  but 
we  were  too  slow. 

I  had  a  beautiful  chance  at  another,  only  250  yards,  while 

waiting  for  P ;  but  unfortunately  my  chicarrie  had  gone 

a  short  distance  with  the  rifle.  Then  came  a  tedious  scramble 
up  another  hill,  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  high,  when  wandering 

through  the  snow  and  burnt  grass,  I  met  P .     We  then 

beat  another  jungle  without  success. 

On  the  snow  of  this  hill  there  was  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
views  I  ever  saw — a  valley  on  either  side,  spangled  by  winding 


404  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO    CASHMERE. 

streams,  while  the  snow-covered  mountains  that  surrounded  us 
r  ppeared  loftier  than  ever.  Descending,  we  had  just  reached  the 
bottom,  when  we  saw  three  stags,  and  two  hinds,  on  an  adjoining 
hill  about  1000  feet  high.    There  was  only  half  an  hour  more  sun, 

but  P said  he  must  try,  so  up  we  started  at  an  awful  pace, 

and  just  before  reaching  a  reasonable  rifle  shot  distance,  thej 
"winded"  us,  and  scattered. 

We  got  sight  of  a  hind  calling,  but  too  distant  to  shoot,  and  as 
we  were  descending  the  hill,  saw  a  barasingh  800  yards  off".  I 
took  a  "snap-shot"  and  missed,  and  was  just  loading  again  when 

I  saw  two  others  at  about  200  yards.     I  waited  for  P 

whose  rifle  missed  fire,  and  when  we  shot  they  were  300  yards 
off,  snap  shots  at  that,  and  we  missed  again,  it  was  so  dark  we 
could  not  see  the  sights  to  our  rifles.  "\Ve  turned  homewards 
much  disgusted  with  our  luck. 

Shortly  after  reaching  the  plain,  as  we  were  going  in  Indian 
file  through  a  bridle  path  of  low  jungle  (thick  brush),  one  of  the 
dogs  gave  an  awful  howl  of  terror;  the  men  shouted,  so  did  we, 
he  soon  came  in,  having  had  a  narrov/  escape  from  a  leopard. 
We  then  had  all  the  dogs  tied,  and  led.  A  hundred  yards  farther 
on,  we  were  startled  in  the  same  way  again,  the  brute  having 
crawled  on  ahead  and  lay  close  to  the  road,  and  not  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  from  our  tents,  where  I  was  as  usual  met  by  my  servant 
with  his  customary  salute  and  "  Kadaun  Sahib"  (Sir  Prince).  As 
the  snow  is  melting  rapidly,  I  fear  we  shall  not  have  any  success. 

Dec.  27th. — I  have  been  out  all  day  alone,  with  three  chicarries. 
I  had  a  walk  equalling  yesterday's  in  fatigue,  and  have  not  seen 

a  single  barasingh  for  nine  hours.     This  afternoon  P went 

out  and  got  one  shot  at  a  barasingh  at  850  yards,  wounding  but 
not  killing  him. 

Our  leopard  trap  is  set,  200  yards  off,  we  have  a  puppy  for  bait, 
who  is  doing  all  we  could  wish  by  his  horrid  howling  to  attract 
the  brute. 

This  evening  we  have  two   sick  men,   the   chuprassy  and 


"professional  visits."  405 

P — = 's  kitmagar.  So  I  got  out  mj'  doctor's  book  and  medi- 
cines, and  after  dinner  wo  studied  it  over,  and  decided  that  one 
had  a  rlieumatic  fever,  and  the  other  some  kind  of  fever  we  did 
not  quite  understand,  and  we  concluded  to  give  him  a  dose  on 
guess,  unless  we  could  understand  his  symptoms  better  than  we 
could  the  book.  So  picking  up  the  medicines  and  book  we  went 
to  pay  our  '■'"professional  visits.'''' 

They  were  in  the  second  story  of  an  adjoining  building,  the 
cattle  occupying  the  first.  The  ceiling  was  not  more  than  five 
feet  high,  and  in  the  room  were  twenty-two  people  and  three 

dogs !     As  P is  Ilindoostanee  interpreter  to  his  regiment 

I  let  him  do  the  conversational,  while  I  personated  JEsculapius, 
with  pockets  full  of  j^hials  and  spoons.  Examining  the  patient's 
pulse  and  tongue,  and  with  due  professional  gravity,  his  various 
symptoms — a  picture  for  Cruikshank — this  sick  chuprassy  with 

a  torch-bearer  on  either  side,  Drs.  P and  I,  one  reading 

the  book,  while  the  other,  watch  in  hand,  studied  the  patient's 
tongue  and  pulse,  surrounded  with  a  triple  circle  of  Coolies  who 
gazed  with  wonder  at  the  learned  Sahibs ! 

After  this  display  of  professional  skill  we  returned  to  the  camp 

fire,  where  P ,  in  a  chogar,  drowned   care  in  his  hookar 

(pipe),  and  I  in  my  capote  with  a  nap.  He  finished  off  the 
evening  watli  some  7«7/s  and  brandy pawny,  as  they  go  together! 
and  I  with  a  whiskey  toddy.  I  suppose  you  think  this  savors  of 
dissipation  indulging  in  "  nightcaps."  You  w^ould  change  your 
mind  if,  after  a  hard  day's  tramp,  you  enjoyed  a  fire  in  the  open 
air,  with  the  thermometer  ten  or  a  dozen  degrees  below  freezing 
point,  and  then  had  to  retire  to  a  tent  to  sleep,  where,  when  the 
floor  is  covered  with  straw  and  a  mat,  a  large  chatty  of  coals 
under  the  middle  of  the  bedstead,  a  hot  stone  at  the  foot,  and  so 
many  bedclothes  and  things  on  the  bed  you  could  not  turn  after 
getting  in,  and  only  just  warm  enough  to  sleep,  with,  at  daylight, 

the  thermometer  about  18°  or  20°.     P has  retired  to  bed, 

I  to  my  tent  to  journalize,  and  the  servants  in  our  late  places 
enjoying  the  fire. 


406  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

Dec.  28. — This  morning  we  took  matters  more  comfortably, 
and  breakfasted  before  starting.  After  getting  half  way  up  the 
mountain  the  dogs  started  a  barasingh  which  we  could  not  get  a 
good  sight  of.  We  then  had  a  distant  glimpse  of  a  bear,  and 
on  to  a  hole  which  we  heard  held  three  bears;  but  ihej  had 
thawed  out  with  the  warm  weather,  and  the  hill  we  were  to  have 
hunted  on  was  on  fire. 

We  returned  to  the  tents  in  disgTist.  Just  as  we  arrived  a 
woman  came  in  with  a  calf  bleeding  at  the  throat  and  head.  A 
leopard  had  sprung  upon  it  not  gunshot  from  the  tents  in  mid- 
day, and  been  frightened  off"  by  two  little  boys  who  were  guarding 
the  cattle.  This  morning  an  offering  was  made  by  the  chicarries, 
and  all  was  eaten  by  the  various  members  of  the  establishment 
except  the  syce,  who,  they  afterwards  discovered,  had  not  touched 
his.  So  this  evening  a  formal  complaint  was  made  to  us  on  the 
subject. 

Giving  our  chuprassy  an  additional  dose  this  morning  we  find 
to-night  he  is  much  better,  and  the  kitmagar  well.  The  chu- 
prassy's  friends  called  in  a  native  doctor,  but — we  were  of 
different  schools,  and  so  could  not  consult  together,  though  he 
did  have  an  ^^sculapian  "  twist  of  the  face."  We  sent  him  off, 
threatening  to  "bore  him"  with  a  Minnie  bullet  if  seen  within 
rifle  shot,  as  we  did  not  mean  to  have  our  patient  trifled  with, 
and  have  a  "  crowner's  verdict"  against  us  to  bring  owr  profession 
in  disgrace.  A  fellow  has  been  hanging  about  all  day,  with  such 
faith  in  my  medical  skill,  he  has  got  quite  angry  because  I  wont 
try  and  cure  liis  consumption! 

Dec.  29,  EiVER  Jhelum. — I  started  my  things  off  early  for  the 

boat.     Then  stopped  and  breakfasted  with  P :-,  who  gave 

me  a  letter  of  introduction  to  a  friend  of  his  at  Kohat,  near 
Peshawur.  I  have  had  a  grand  time  paying  off  chicarries  and 
Coolies,  Then  off  via  Islamabad,  passing  through  the  remains 
of  an  avenue  of  grand  old  plane  trees,  with  trunks  at  the  ground 
varying  from  eight  to  fifteen  feet  in  diameter.     There  is  notliing 


ANOTHER   VISIT  TO   MOOKTI-SHAH.  407 

to  denote  antiquity  about  tlie  town,  save  an  old  tank  full  of 
trout,  darker  and  not  as  pretty  colored  as  ours. 

It  is  tlie  site  of  the  ancient  Anatnagh,  to  wliicli  tradition  gives 
an  antediluvian  date,  3700  B.C.  In  tlie  iifteentli  century  the  Ma- 
hommedans  changed  its  name  to  Islamabad,  or  "City  of  the  Faith," 

I  found  my  boat  had  been  carried  a  mile  down  the  river  by 
some  Sepoys ;  however  I  got  it  at  last,  and  with  the  tide,  good 
luck,  and  the  men  joaddling  all  night,  if  they  don't  fall  asleep, 
will  get  me  in  to-morrow  morning. 

Bee.  30,  Cashmeee. — Though  the  men  worked  all  night,  yet, 
from  the  lowness  of  the  water  in  the  river  and  frequent  shoals, 
we  did  not  sight  Tukht-i-Suliman  until  nine ;  at  twelve  I  left 
with  my  rifle,  and  took  a  short  cut  across  while  the  boat  con- 
tinued on  down.  I  shot  a  hawk  and  a  cat,  the  only  rjame  I  could 
see.     I  saw  a  small  boat  opposite  the  bungalow  towing  up  stream. 

I  got  them  to  put  me  across.     I  found  P 's  bungalow 

locked,  and  his  bearer  gone  to  the  bazaar.     While  meditating 

housebreaking  the  postman  came  with  some  letters  for  P 

and  P ,  and  some  papers,  but  nothing  for  me. 

I  amused  myself  reading  the  news  nntil  my  boat  arrived,  then 

borrowing  P 's  horse,  rode  to  the  Post  Office  to  make  sure 

there  were  no  letters  for  me.  Then  to  Mookti-Shah's,  who,  of 
course,  in  four  days  beyond  the  time,  had  not  touched  the 
chudders  ;  only  two  shawls  were  finished  for  me  to  choose  from, 
and  the  scarfs  were  in  the  wash,  so  I  "  raved  a  few."  Then  to 
the  seal-engraver's  and  got  the  seals ;  on  my  return,  finding  the 
bearer  still  absent,  I  entered  vi  et  armis,  and  took  possession  of 

P 's  own  room,  which  would  not  warm  notwithstanding: 

all  the  air-stoppers. 

Dec.  31. — This  morning  P 's  old  bearer  made  me  very 

comfortable  with  a  fire,  and  after  breakfast  eroino-  into  town,  I 
ordered  some  more  seals.  Then  to  Hadji-Mohammed's.  I  saw 
no  shawls  to  suit  me,  the  chudders  are  dear,  and  there  are  no- 


408  FKOiyi   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

cliogars.  On  my  way  back  I  stoi^pcd  and  Ijought  a  clicss-board 
and  pen-box  both  of  papier  machti ;  I  then  went  to  the  gun- 
smith's to  have  a  bullet  mould  made. 

Going  to  Mookti-Shah's,  who  had  managed  to  get  several  of 
his  shawls  ready  for  me  to  see,  I  bought  a  beautiful  one  of  a  new 
pattern,  with  a  centre  in  four  colors,  and  one  of  the  very  pret- 
tiest patterns  he  had,  and  far  handsomer  and  much  superior  to 
any  I  could  find  elsewhere.  He  is  the  great  manufacturer  in 
Cashmere  of  Cashmere  shawls,  and  has  much  the  largest  and 
best  assortment.  I  don't  think  he  makes  any  that  could  be 
bouo'ht  for  less  than  ciorht  or  nine  hundred  dollars  in  New  York 
or  London,  I  have  seen  none  at  any  time  when  I  have  been  at 
his  house  or  manufactory. 

I  also  bought  a  chogar,  and  five  chudders,  three  for  F 

and  W ,  at  Lahore,  and  the  other  two  for  myself,  they  are 

purely  of  pushmena  except  a  very  narrow  embroidered  border 
of  about  an  inch.  They  are  white,  and  about  ten  or  twelve  feet 
long  by  six  wide,  and  very  much  liked  as  sick-room  shawls  by 
the  English  ladies,  then  half  a  dozen  small  scarfs  for  the  neck,  of 
different  patterns  and  colors,  white,  red,  and  blue. 

Mookti-Shah  then  took  me  to  his  manufactory,  a  miserable 
dirty  building,  the  working  department  one  large  room,  about 
sixty  by  thirty.  Here  were  some  forty  men  and  boys  of  all  ages 
from  six  up  to  fifty,  arranged  in  twos  and  threes,  at  different 
looms,  each  one  a  loom  to  himself,  for  all  the  most  valuable 
shawls  are  made  in  looms,  in  small  pieces  according  to  the  pat- 
tern, and  then  sewn  together.  The  pattern  is  not  put  in  colors 
and  squa,res  like  our  patterns  of  worsted  work  for  chair-backs, 
seats,  or  slippers,  but  the  directions  written.  "When  the  patterns 
arc  made  they  arc  all  sewn  together. 

At  some  looms  where  they  were  working  there  appeared  to  be 
four  or  five  hundred  small  pins  of  w^ood  with  rolls  of  different 
shades  of  woollen  thread,  to  be  used  in  the  difierent  parts  of  the 
pattern.  It  was  astonishing  to  see  the  dexterity  with  which  the 
■fimall  children  worked  these  handlooms,  and  understood  their 


SHAWL   FOR  THE   EMPRESS   EUGENIE.  409 

written  directions.  Most  of  the  people  were  at  work  on  a  mag- 
nificent shawl  for  the  Empress  Eugenie  of  France,  a  white  ground 
or  centre,  and  it  will  be  the  most  elegant  one  he  has  ever  made. 
He  says  thirty  men  have  been  steadil}^  at  work  on  it  for  six 
months,  and  it  will  require  three  more  months  to  finish  it.  The 
price,  when  finished  will  be  about  1,300  rupees  or  $650,  and  is 
such  a  shawl  as  would  sell  for  about  $-i,000  in  London  or  New 
York — so  you  see  the  shopkeepers,  even  if  they  don't  come  out 
here  to  make  money,  are  enabled  to  realize  a  little  when  they  stay 
at  home.  My  shawl  took  fifteen  men  seven  months  to  make. 
The  workmen  only  receive  one  and  a  half  annas  ( 4 J  cents)  a 
day. 

Mookti-Shah  is  quite  a  rara  avis  among  these  people  in  being 
an  honest,  reliable  man,  as  every  one  tells  me.  He  says  if  labor 
was  as  cheap  in  France  they  could  make  them  as  well  as  he  does, 
and  that  the  water  here  is  supposed  to  have  peculiar  properties, 
and  so  does  not  affect  them  in  washing,  is  all  in  the  imagination. 
I  can't  imagine  where  all  the  one,  two,  and  three  hundred  dollar 
shawls  in  your  stores  come  from — certainly  not  Cashmere. 

I  took  leave  and  went  through  one  of  the  canals,  in  which 
there  were  hundreds  of  domesticated  ducks  and  geese  belonging 
to  the  Maharajah,  which  it  would  be  death  to  kill ;  and  continuing 
on  to  the  lake  without  being  able  to  find  the  old  Temple  of  Kali- 
Salam — a  Hindoo  place  of  pilgrimage — I  went  on  to  the  Nishad- 
Bagh,  the  pretty  summer-garden  and  summer-house  I  visited 
once  before  with  C ,  but  hastily. 

The  gardens  are  very  extensive,  and  immediately  on  the  lake. 
I  wandered  through  them  and  then  took  another  view  from  the 
balcony  of  the  Pavilion. 

"  0 !  to  see  it  at  sunset." 

A  brilliant  sun  was  setting,  and  mellowing  the  air  with  its  golden 
rays.  The  glassy  waters  of  the  lake  were  reflecting  each  moun- 
tain, hill,  and  tree  on  a  background  of  fleecy  sky,  on  cither  side 
of  the  city.     The  Tukht-i-Suliman,  and  Hurri-Purvat,  towered  in 


•ilO  FEOM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

solitary  grandeur,  each  bearing  on  its  crest  the  emblematic  rule 
of  God  and  man — love  and  strength — a  temple  and  a  fortress. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake  was  the  forest  of  plane  trees 
which  Ackbar  planted,  the  Char-Chuner  Isle,  and  the  Shalimar 
Gardens,  and  in  this  place  the  relic  of  a  once  beautiful  fountain. 
Some  years  ago  a  wealthy  Pundit  constructed  a  dam  or  bund 
across  this  part  of  the  lake  from  Shrenuggur,  which  destroyed 
much  of  its  beauty.  At  present  the  water  is  very  low.  I  reached 
home  long  after  dark,  and  half- frozen, 

Neio  Year''s  Day^  1854,  Kashmir. — A  happy  New  Year  to  you 
all !  This  morning  up  early  for  a  long  day  on  the  lake;  but  my 
stupid  boatmen  cost  me  an  hour,  by  coming  to  the  house  instead 
of  going  to  the  Drogshuh  (sluice-gate),  so  I  employed  the  interme- 
diate time  while  they  were  going  around  there,  in  writing  notes 

to  P and  P ,  and  sending  them  their  letters  and 

papers,  a  servant  of  each  being  in  from  them.  After  a  long  row 
through  one  of  the  numerous  canals,  I  passed  within  a  hundred 
yards  of  Ackbar's  femous  grove,  and  on  to  the  Char-Chunar 
Island,  where  I  landed.  Two  of  the  trees  are  standing;  the 
summer-house  is  gone,  and  the  water-wheel  that  supplied  the 
fountains  has  perished  like  the  rest.  I  picked  up  a  piece  of  marble 
for  myself,  and  some  plane-tree  balls  for  romanticly  disposed 
friends. 

Then  to  the  Shalimar  Gardens,  so  famous  in  Lalla  Eookh ! 
They  are  at  the  far  end  of  the  lake,  and  the  approach  is  through 
a  long,  narrow  canal.  A  few  steps  from  the  boat  takes  the  visitor 
to  the  outer  gate.  There  are  three,  each  forming  a  small  pavilion. 
Through  a  large  open  space  between  the  two  parts  of  the 
pavilions,  like  a  gateway,  flowed  a  succession  of  fountains,  com- 
mencing at  the  large  pavilion.  The  place  is  now  dry,  and  being 
well  paved  forms  a  good  walk. 

These  pavilions  are  each  about  two  hundred  feet  apart.  In 
fron*  of  the  principal  one  is  a  large  fountain,  with  walls  five 
feet  high.     In  the  centre  of  this,  and  connecting  by  a  marble 


"magnificent  shalimar."  411 

bridge  with  tlie  pavilion,  is  a,  raised  floor  or  platform,  evidently 
arranged  for  a  seat  of  state,  or  throne. 

This  last  and  principal  pavilion  has  a  portico  surrounding  it, 
supported  by  beautiful  pillars  of  black  marble,  highly  polished, 
with  very  heavy  capitals.  The  base  on  which  the  pavilion  is 
erected,  is  also  of  black  marble,  polished.  The  building  is  sur- 
rounded on  three  sides  by  a  basin  for  water,  with  a  hundred  and 
twenty  jets.  The  structure  is  of  one  story  about  fifty  feet  front 
by  forty  deep,  and  divided  into  a  large  hall,  and  two  side  apart- 
ments shut  o&  by  a  lattice  screen  of  marble. 

A  fine  avenue  of  plane  trees  leads  to  the  pavilion — many  of 
the  trunks  measuring  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  in  circumference. 
There  is  nothing  very  attractive  about  the  place,  nor  can  it  com- 
pare with  the  Nishad-Bagh  for  beauty  of  situation :  the  principal 
elements  of  beauty  are  due  to  the  hand  of  man,  and  the  imagina- 
tive to  the  halo  of  enchantment  with  which  Moore,  by  the  charm 
of  his  wonderful  poesy,  has  encircled  the  vale  of  Cashmere.  All 
this  will  doubtless  conflict  with  the  pre-conceived  views  and  air- 
castles  of  this  beautiful  valley,  and  especially  with 

"  His  magnificent  Shalimar ;" 

But  Moore  wrote  his  description  in  England,  without  seeing 
Cashmere,  and  probably  without  seeing  any  one  who  ever  had 
been  there,  borrowing  his  descrij)tions  from  Bernier,  who  saw 
it  under  some  of  its  most  favorable  auspices,  the  Emperor 
vVurungzebe,  the  last  of  the  Moguls :  and  what  he  did  not  see 
he  received  from  tradition,  told  in  native  hyperbolic  style  of 
description,  commensurate  with  their  exaggerated  respect  for  the 
great  Emperors :  and  Moore,  with  all  the  privilege  of  poetic  licence 
wrought  it  up  as  only  his  beautiful  poesy  was  capable  of;  while 
I,  a  humble  matter-of-fact  traveller,  give  "a  plain  unvarnished 
tale"  of  what  I  saw,  written  and  sketched  on  the  very  spot,  and 
under  the  very  roof  where 

"  The  imperial  Selim  held  a  feast 
In  his  magnificent  Shalimar." 


412  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Moore's  description  of  the  scenery,  and  all  tliat  nature  contributed 
are  perfect,  and  poetry  ceases  to  lend  a  charm  when  nature  has 
furnished  the  perfections  of  loveliness.    But  where  nature  stopped 
Moore's  poetic  dream  took  up  its  lay. 

But  to  continue  the  practical.  Back  of  the  Shalimar,  I  saw 
a  heavy  curious  flour  mill,  worked  hj  an  overshot  wheel ;  the 
paddlers  or  arms  about  as  wide  as  carriage  spokes,  and  arranged 
in  the  same  waj".  This  turned  a  beam,  to  which  were  fastened 
two  other  spokes  ;  one  on  either  side.  As  they  revolved,  they 
alternately  raised  the  handles  of  two  heavy  hammers  which 
pounded  the  grain,  taking  about  a  week  io  grind  a  barrel  of 
flour. 

Down  the  lake  passed  the  Nishad-Bagh,  to  the  foot  of  the  hill 
where  stands  the  Purvi  Mahal — an  old  Mussulmaun  College — 
which  presents  a  flne  appearance,  as  it  stands  on  the  brow  of 
the  terraced  hill.  I  contented  myself  with  a  view  from  the  boat 
as  there  is  nothing  more  to  be  seen  after  all  the  trouble  of  climb- 
ing up.  I  continued  on  to  the  foot  of  the  Tukht-i-Suliman,  and 
across  to  an  old  Hindoo  temple  in  a  tank,  called  the  Pandritan. 

On  reaching  my  bungalow,  I  learned  from  P 's  servant  he 

would  be  in  from  his  camp  in  an  hour  ;  so  I  delayed  dinner,  and 
sent  him  my  salaam.  In  a  short  time  he  came  in,  apologizing 
for  his  shooting  clothes,  and  thus  we  both  had  a  very  respectable 
New- Year's  dinner,  instead  of  he  alone  in  his  tent,  and  I  in  the 

bungalow.      He  had  had  better  luck  than   P and    I; 

he  had  killed  two  barasingh,  an  ibex,  and  two  bears ;  but  had 
been  living  in  the  snow,  and  he  is  one  of  the  best  shots  in  India. 

Last  spring  he  had  a  very  narrow  escape  from  an  avalanche. 

He  and   the   surgeon  of  his  regiment.  Dr.  P ,  were  out 

shooting  on  some  of  the  snow  ranges,  when  avalanches  w" ere  con 
stantly  coming  down  on  all  sides.  He  had  given  up  the  shoot- 
ing there,  as  too  dangerous,  when  his  friend  persuaded  him  to 
go  once  more,  and  while  out  that  day,  and  they  were  sitting  on 
a  cliff  looking  at  some  ibex,  they  heard  a  crash, — on  looking  up, 
they  saw  the  top  of  the  mountain  coming  down  with  frightful 


A   VISIT  TO  THE   BATHS.  413 

velocit3^     P sprang  up,  and  exclaimed  to  his  friend,  and 

the  three  chicarries  who  were  with  them,  "Come  along!"  and 
rushed  along  the  cliff  as  fast  as  possible.  In  a  minute  he  reached 
a  cleft  in  the  rock  eight  or  nine  feet  wide,  and  extending  down 
hundreds  of  feet — a  fearful  chasm  to  leap,  but  his  only  chance ; 
and  without  stopping  to  look,  he  took  it  and  landed  safely  on  the 
other  side,  although  three  feet  higher  than  the  place  he  sprang 
from — such  are  his  great  activity  and  strength.  He  said  he 
never  saw  his  friend  or  the  hunters  after  he  started ;  whether  they 
were  horrified  at  the  danger,  or  when  they  reached  tlie  chasm, 
were  afraid  to  leap,  he  did  not  know. 

The  Dr.  fancying  from  these  frequent  avalanches  some  accident 
might  happen  to  him,  had  written  his  will  in  his  journal  only 
two  da,js  before. 

Jan.  2. — P and  I  went  to  the  baths  this  morning  to  try 

them;  and  the  way  they  manage  the -thing  in  Kashmir,  having 
sent  word  last  night  that  we  were  coming,  and  to  have  the  place 
cleaned  for  us.  We  found  it  a  dark  dismal  hole,  where  we  got 
awful  manipulations,  poundings,  and  disjointings — quite  excru- 
ciating, which  wc  endured  with  Spartan  fortitude,  being  deter- 
mined to  "see  the  thing  out,"  though  each  occasionally  emitted 
a  groan,  which  the  other  laughed  at — though  we  both  believe 
the  rascals,  thinking  we  were  novices,  put  us  in  all  the  pain  they 
could  to  see  our  grimaces. 

While  we  were  at  breakfast,  Mookti-Shah  came  in  with  my 
things.  P pronounced  the  shawl  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful patterns  he  had  ever  seen ;  besides,  it  was  an  entirely  new 
pattern  of  which  there  were  only  two  others  like  it,  and  they 
made  at  the  same  time — the  chogar  of  white  pushmena,  the 
chuddars,   and  scarfs,  besides  a  very  pretty  dressing-gown  for 

myself,  all  of  pushmena.  P is  considered  an  excellent  judge 

in  these  matters,  from  being  so  much  here  for  three  years  past, 
and  going  with  friends  so  frequently  to  the  shops  and  manufac- 
tories, besides  lounging  in  them  when  nothing  else  to  do,  for 


414  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

they  are  always  glad  to  see  Europeans,  feeling  their  visit  a  com- 
pliment, so  that  he  knows  the  stocks  of  the  people  almost  as  well 
as  they  do  themselves. 

Mookti-Shah  then  packed  them  up  in  several  cloths,  and  sewed 
them  up  in  double  wrappers  of  oil  cloth — I  hope  they  will  go 
safe.     We  then  went  to  the  sealman's  and  got  the  seals. 

"We  continued  on  to  Safa-la-Baba's  shawl  establishment,  where 
I  saw  four  very  pretty  shawls  he  is  making  for  Lady  Gomm, 
the  wife  of  the  Commander-in-chief,  for  600  rupees  each,  and 
several  others  very  handsome ;  also  a  beautiful  small  one  he 
offers   for  250   rupees,    which  is  much  below  the  price — done 

to  induce  P to  bring  his  friends  as  now  he  always  takes 

them  to  Mookti-Shah's,  and  this  man  wishes  to  get  a  celebrity. 

P is  persuading  me  to  buy  it  as  the  cheapest  one  he  has 

seen  in  Cashmere.  Though  I  don't  quite  like  the  style  of  manu- 
facture, the  pattern  is  beautiful ;  but  the  work  is  embroidered 
with  a  needle  after  it  is  made — a  new  fashion  that  is  being  intro- 
duced, and  less  beautiful  than  the  woven  fabrics.  To-morrow 
he  is  to  bring  it  to  me  pressed,  that  I  may  see  it  to  better  advan- 
tage; now  it  is  rough  from  having  just  been  made,  and 
washed. 

The  great  beauty  I  find  in  their  shawls,  and  what  makes  them 
so  expensive,  is  not  only  the  softness,  but  closeness  of  the  work- 
Shawls  may  be  soft,  but  of  loose  and  flimsy  texture ;  while  the 
better  ones  are  almost  stiff  from  the  closeness  of  the  work.  From 
there  being  so  much  more  work  in  them,  they  are  very  much 
more  expensive,  though  the  others  may  be  softer ;  and  in  that 
way  people  are  deceived  as  to  the  value.  AYhen  I  was  going- 
home  he  offered  me  his  horse,  as  P had  his  own,  and  I 

had  come  in  the  boat.  The  horse  was  very  good,  but  the  saddle 
and  housings,  "awful  swell"  of  crimson  pushmena,  embroidered 
needlework,  silver,  shells,  and  all  sorts  of  ornaments. 

Jan.  2>d. — This  morning,  I  went  down  early  in  my  boat  to  the 
city,  for  a  sketch  from  the  river,  of  the  bridges,  river,  and  houses- 


NATIVES  OF  LADAK.  415 

also  to  finish  one  I  had  commenced  of  the  Shaam-Dam  mosque, 
built  of  deodar  cedar. 

The  interior  is  very  j)rettily  painted  and  inlaid  with  colored 
woods.  I  saw  some  pretty  Ilindoo  women,  who  are  easily 
recognised  by  their  red  woollen  frocks  or  gowns.  Many  of  the 
children,  both  Hindoo  and  Cashmerean,  have  beautiful  and 
aristocratic  foces.  The  women  have  a  composite  face  of  Greek, 
Jew,  and  Indian ;  many  with  the  low  forehead  and  Grecian 
features.  The  men  have  much  the  same  stjde  of  face  as  the 
women.  On  my  way  down  I  saw  many  men  bathing  in  the 
river,  a  rather  objectionable  j)erformance,  I  should  think,  with 
the  thermometer  six  or  eight  degrees  below  freezing,  though 

P says  he  has  always  done  it  until  within  a  few  days  past, 

when  it  made  him  sick. 

Going  in  the  bazaar,  I  saw  some  men  from  Ladak,  the  northern 
part  of  Thibet — about  ten  daj^s  march  from  Islamabad — 'where 
I  should  go,  but  for  the  deep  snow.  The  men  are  almost 
white,  and  wear  long  hair,  while  the  Cashmereans  are  sallow  or 
very  light  mulatto,  except  a  few  of  the  lowest  class,  vrho  are 
nearly  black.  Either  they  are  a  different  caste,  or  else  low 
caste  Bengalees;  but  they  are  quite  distinct,  both  in  color 
and  feature. 

At  home  to  pack  uj).  This  afternoon  Safa-la-Baba  brought 
the  shawl,  which  looked  so  handsome  when  pressed,  that  I  bought 
it,  thinking  j'ou  might  like  it,  as  so  different  from  the  style  of 
those  you  have,  and  I  had  it  packed  up  in  various  cloths. 

The  Maharajah  and  his  agents  keep  watch  of  every  shawl 
that  is  made,  to  get  the  thirty-three  per  cent,  tax ;  and  as  soon 
as  finished,  the  shawl  is  shown  to  them,  and  the  Maharajah's 
name  marked  in  thread  in  one  corner — the  curious  scrawl  you 
alwaj'S  see  in  a  corner  of  all  Cashmere  shawls ! 

Then  P and  I  took  our  farewell  dinner.     I  bid  him 

good-bye — but  that  everlasting  procrastination  in  the  East,  my 
"  help,"  had  not  got  all  my  things  ready,  so  I  patiently  waited. 
P says  when  a  man  dies  and  leaves  a  widow,  it  is  con- 


416  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

sidered  verj  disgracefal  if  liis  brotlier  does  not  marry  her  in 
preference  to  any  other  person. 

My  bearer  has  just  come  m,  with  a  long  face  and  "Kodaun 
Sahib"  (Sir  Prince),  "the  kitmagar  has  cut  up  my  water  rope, 
that  I  paid  eight  annas  for."  So  I  said  I  would  make  the  kit- 
magar give  him  a  new  one,  and  blow  him  up.  He  folded  his 
hands,  and  after  repeated  "ha,  Sahibs"  (their  only  style  of  say- 
ing thank  you),  said,  "  I  will  follow  your  excellency  to  the  end 
of  the  world,  and  I  will  pray  to  God  Almighty  that  you  may 
die  a  lord."  God  is  first  in  their  ideas,  under  whatever  name 
they  worship  him — God,  Allah,  or  Brahma,  and  a  lord  is  next — 
an  odd  mixture  of  the  spiritual  and  worldly. 

P intends  going  to  Ladak  in  a  few  weeks,  if  the  weather 

continues  mild,  and  then  in  disguise  penetrate  into  Thibet,  a 
forbidden  country  to  the  English.  They  don't  quite  cut  your 
throat,  as  in  Afghanistan,  but  they  put  you  in  prison  to  while 
away  your  time,  as  they  did  ten  or  fifteen  years  ago  an  English 
ofi&cer,  who  has  since  inherited  an  estate  in  England  of  between 
£10,000  and  £20,000  a-year,  and  yet  cannot  get  out  of  Thibet 
to  go  home  and  enjoy  it.  Sometimes  they  only  subject  you  to 
the  inconvenience  of  retracing  your  steps,  or  perhaps  imprison 

you  until  it  suits  their  convenience  to  send  you  away.     P 

understands  Hindostanee  admirably,  and  Cashmeree  very  well,  as 
one  of  them  found  out  a  day  or  two  ago,  when  he  made  some 

infamous  remark  about   P ,    who   gave    him    "  Harriet 

Beecher  Stowe."  He  is  a  tremendous  big  fellow,  though  only 
twenty-two.  Six  feet  one  or  two,  and  splendidly  set  np ;  and 
yet  the  smallest  of  a  family  of  five  brothers.  You  can,  ^;erAaps, 
imagine  what  the  others  are.  He  regularly  walks  the  Cash- 
merean  chicarries  off  their  feet — and  such  a  jolly  nice  fellow ! 

P says  in  conversing  with  some  people  from  Ladak, 

they  speak  of  a  wild  animal  with  one  horn  in  the  forehead,  which 
he  thinks  must  be  the  unicorn  of  Scripture,  and  has  proposed  to 
government  to  take  the  risk  of  the  journey,  if  they  will  pay  his 
travelling  expenses.     They  refuse ! 


THE   CITY   OF   KASHJIIR.  417 

And  now,  having  seen  Kashmir  and  all  its  sights,  even  though 
at  this  most  unfavorable  season  of  the  year,  yet  I  have  been 
singularly  fortunate  in  finding  it  so  mild,  and  the  ground  gene- 
rally free  from  snow.    The  people  are  quite  alarmed,  and  P 

says  there  will  be  a  famine  in  the  Punjaub  next  year,  unless 

there  is  some  snow  to  fill  the  rivers.     P and  P 

both  say  that  beautiful  as  the  country  is  in  winter,  it  is  still  more 
lovely  in  summer,  when  the  trees  are  in  foliage,  and  the  valley 
almost  a  mass  of  roses  and  other  flowers,  teeming  with  every 
variety  of  luxuriant  vegetation. 

I  leave  the  country  quite  satisfied  with  what  I  have  seen,  faint 
as  the  realization  of  what  it  is  in  summer,  when  every  spot  from 
mountain  to  mountain  again,  is  "  bursting  with  heaped  up 
plenty."  The  now  muddy  canals,  then  bright  pellucid  streams, 
the  rough  banks  variegated  with  grass  and  wild  flowers,  and  the 
noble  trees  that  shade  its  banks  luxuriant  witli  varied  foliage. 

It  is  the  environs  of  Kashmir  that  are  so  beautiful :  the  shaded 
walks,  canals,  lake,  islands,  gardens,  the  valley,  and  mountains, 
with  their  perpetual  rosy-tinted  snow — so  refreshing  a  view  when 
turning  from  the  midsummer  sun  faint  with  the  heat  of  the  plain. 

The  city  is  much  like  all  others  in  the  East — filth}'-  streets,  and 
a  mass  of  dilapidated  mud  or  stone  houses,  new  or  old  all 
together ;  and  apropos  of  this,  there  is  an  absurd  superstition 
that  prevails  throughout  India,  that  when  a  man  dies  leaving  a 
house  unfinished,  it  is  considered  had  lucJc  to  complete  it  or  have 
anything  to  do  with  it !  So  it  is  neither  sold  nor  pulled  down,, 
but  remains  an  unsightly  object  until  it  falls  of  its  own  accord. 

The  gardens  and  summer  palaces  that  were  formerly  among 
the  charms  of  the  place,  are  now  gone  to  ruin.  The  gardens- 
are  nearly  a  jungle,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  principal  one 
in  the  Shalimar,  the  palaces  are  almost  ruins — Goolaub  Singh 
attending  more  to  substantial  realities  in  the  way  of  filling  his 
coffers,  than  creating,  or  even  keeping  in  order,  the  artificial 
beauties  of  palaces,  gardens,  and  fountains. 

And  now  good-bye  to  Cashmere ! ! 

27 


418  FROiL   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

Jan.  4t€i. — River  Jhelum. — This  morning,  when  I  thawed  out 
of  my  cabin,  I  found,  with  current  and  rowing,  we  were  half- 
way to  Bararaulla.  I  saw  a  great  number  of  geese  in  the  river, 
on  the  land,  or  wing — so,  after  breakfast,  I  engaged  for  the  day 
a  shooting-boat  and  two  men,  whom  I  saw  paddling  in  a  gun- 
ning "punt,"  for  the  enormous  sum  of  three  annas  (nine  cents). 
Having  occasion  to  cross  the  river,  I  got  in. 

A  more  ticklish  craft  I've  never  seen — no  washboards,  a  flat- 
bottomed  scow,  only  eight  inches  deep,  long  and  narrow ;  as  it 
floated,  the  gunwales  were  only  two  or  three  inches  above  the 
water,  when  on  a  level  keel.  From  the  centre  to  the  bow  of 
the  boat,  was  trained  a  long  gun-barrel,  old,  rusty,  and  patched, 
with  a  matchlock.  The  barrel  was  at  least  seven  feet  long,  and 
must  have  carried  an  enormous  charge.  The  geese  were  very 
wild.  I  fired  several  shots  at  them,  with  my  rifle,  from  250  to 
300  yards — the  nearest  I  could  get. 

We  soon  reached  the  "Waller  lake,  when  I  paddled  off  in  the 
•shooting-boat  to  look  at  the  ruins  of  the  old  Bhuddist  temple, 
on  an  island  at  its  entrance.  Then  on  into  the  continuation  of 
the  Jhelum,  which  took  several  hours.  At  dusk  I  waded 
through  a  morass  for  a  shot  at  some  geese ;  but  they  were  too 
wild,  ev^en  at  this  hour.  I've  just  heard  a  gun,  so  I  suppose 
some  native  has  run  against  a  goose,  for  they  never  fire  unless 
the  gan  almost  touches  the  bird. 

To-day  I  saw  one  of  these  boats  work  up  to  a  flock  of  ducks  • 
«ach  has  a  paddle,  as  large  at  the  end  as  the  head  of  a  small  keg, 
and  looking  very  much  like  one.  They  worked  up  until  within 
120  yards,  when  the  head  man  laid  down  and  trained  the  gun, 
while  the  other,  leaning  forward  out  of  sight,  used  his  hands  as 
paddles.     They  did  not  fire,  though  they  had  a  beautiful  chance. 

Jan  hill. — Nowshera. — I  reached  Baramulla  just  before  day- 
light. After  sending,  I  went  mj'-self  to  the  cutwal,  and  the 
thanadiir  soon  followed.  After  being  dela3'ed  until  half-past 
ten,  I  got  my  eight  additional  Coolies,  whom  I  despatched  with 


DIFFICULTIES   WITH   THE    COOLIES.  419 

the  kitmagar  and  traps,  wliile  I  waited  an  hour  more  for  a  horse. 
Part  of  the  time  I  spent  in  sketching  the  pretty  face  of  my  boat- 
man's daughter,  who  was  so  modest  she  never  looked  the  same 
way  two  seconds. 

The  horse  arrived ;  so,  saddling  him  with  my  cloak  and  plaid^ 
I  mounted,  and  left  the  legs  to  take  care  of  themselves,  and 
reached  this  place  just  at  sunset.  Gave  the  kitmagar  the  room 
that  had  the  fire-place,  to  cook  in,  while  I  depended  upon  a  hot 
stone  in  the  cold  room,  preferring  it  to  the  smoke  of  the  other. 

I've  just  pushed  aside  the  curtain  separating  the  two  rooms, 
to  speak  to  the  kitmagar ;  I  found  him  asleep,  and  my  to-mor- 
row's breakfast  being  cooked  by  two  dirty  Coolies — a  prospect 
not  altogether  agreeable,  although  travel  has  made  me  familiar 
with  dirt. 

Jan.  6th. — Uri. — This  morning  I  was  woke  at  daylight,  and 
had  the  disagreeable  news  that  my  Coolies  had  all  run  away. 
So  I  sent  to  the  thanadar  for  more.  My  servant  not  liking  to 
awake  the  great  man,  I  went  to  the  fort  myself,  and  had  some 
Sepoys  sent  out  after  Coolies.  Yesterday  my  sympathies  were 
awakened  by  seeing  the  Sepoys  try  to  force  some  Coolies  to  take 
my  things,  and  throw  down  their  own  loads  in  the  road.  But 
as  they  are  all  such  a  precious  set  of  vagabonds,  I  don't  care  much 
what  the  Sepoys  do  to  them,  nor  did  I  inquire  how  my  comple* 
ment  was  made  up. 

I  stopped  on  the  road  to  finish  my  sketch  of  the  old  Bhuddist 
temple.  The  sides  of  the  enclosure  wall  are  fall  of  cells,  with 
the  trefoil  arch  over  each  entrance.  I  arrived  here  at  four,  and 
delay  my  sketch  until  to-morrow. 

Jan.  7th. — This  morning  I  started  my  Coolies  off  with  one  of 
the  servants,  while  I  took  the  other,  the  horse,  and  a  Cooly,  and 
sketched  the  suspension  bridge. 

Leaving  all  but  the  Cooly  at  the  fort,  I  descended  three  or 
four  hundred  feet  to  the  bridge,  which  is  a  braided  rope,  made 
from  twisted  twigs.     It  consists  of  three  parts — a  place  about 


420  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

eight  inches  wide  to  walk  upon,  and  two  twisted-twig  rails,  one 
on  either  side.  They  are  about  three  and  a  half  feet  above  the 
foot-piece,  and  at  every  ten  feet  small  wooden  bars  or  bannisters 
connect  the  rail  with  the  foot  part. 

The  Jhelura,  or  Hydaspes,  is  here  about  a  hundred  yards 
wide — a  rapid,  rushing,  foaming  torrent.  The  bridge  is  secured 
on  either  bank  about  sixty  feet  above  the  water's  edge,  and  in 
the  centre,  the  arc  of  the  circle  is  so  great,  it  is  only  about  eight 
feet  above  the  water.  I  asked  the  Cooly  to  cross,  intending  to 
follow ;  but  he  was  afraid,  and  as  my  head  turns  at  times,  I  did 
not  like  to  venture  alone. 

I  went  below  and  sketched  it.  "While  there,  I  saw  a  man 
cross  with  a  sheep  on  his  shoulder ;  he  walked  carelessly  along, 
the  bridge  vibrating  very  much,  and  yielding  at  every  step. 
Then  I  went  on  after  my  people,  descending  into  a  small  valley 
beyond  the  fort,  and  then  up  and  down  hills  and  over  ravines, 
reaching  here  about  nine  this  evening — the  distance  some  fifteen 
miles. 

On  the  way  I  saw  a  ho^Tcet  on  a  rope  cross  the  Jhelum,  the  banks 
being  nearly  200  feet  above  the  river.  At  about  two-thirds 
of  the  journey  to-day  I  passed  my  men,  then  sat  down  to  rest; 
when  the  first  men  overtook  me,  I  heard  that  three  of  my  Coo- 
lies had  thrown  down  the  luggage  and  run  off.  I  hurried  back, 
and  found  it  too  true.  The  bearer  was  in  full  pursuit  of  them, 
but  without  success,  as  a  lot  of  women  had  hid  them  in  some 
huts.  I  felt  much  disposed  to  revenge  myself  on  them  by 
setting  fire  to  one  of  the  huts,  or  pressing  some  of  the  women 
into  the  service,  and  making  them  head  the  procession  until  the 
Coolies  were  produced.  However,  we  managed  to  get  the  things 
on  the  horse,  and  off  we  started  again. 

About  half  way  to  this  place,  I  got  three  other  Coolies.  This 
is  a  village  in  name,  consisting  of  only  three  houses.  My  tent  is 
pitched,  and  with  plenty  of  straw  carpeting^  I  hope  to  be  comfort- 
able, though  I  am  feeling  feverish,  but  with  light  dinner,  tea,  and 
a  good  night's  sleep  I  hope  to  be  all  right  by  to-morrow. 


HUTTEA.  421 

The  road  has  been  along  the  banks  of  the  Jhelum  all  day, 
much  of  the  time  on  its  verge,  which  descends  perpendicularly 
from  200  to  400  feet.  On  the  opposite  side  it  is  nearly  the  same. 
The  river  is  so  narrow,  it  seems  like  an  immense  chasm.  This 
evening  I  stood  for  some  minutes  in  front  of  my  tent,  gazing  on 
the  Jhelum  as  it  rushed  foaming  and  chafing  by. 

I've  just  suspended  my  rifle  to  one  of  the  tent  poles,  my  port- 
folio and  the  shawls  to  the  ridge  pole,  for  fear  the  mice  in  the 
straw  may  fancy  them,  or  light-fingered  gentry  peep  under  the 
tent.  These  valuables  are  over  my  head.  I  hope  they  will  not 
be  disturbed,  as  I  might  suffer  considerable  inconvenience  there- 
from. 

Jan.  8th,  Huttea,  15  miles. — Another  late  start  this  morning. 
The  bearer  was  up  by  daylight  to  see  the  thanadar  who  lives  six 
miles  off,  and  then  Coolies  had  to  be  looked  up.  They  had  not 
gone  a  hundred  yards  with  their  loads,  when  as  I  was  mounting 
my  donkey,  I  heard  a  cry  of  a  "  Cooly  run  away."  I  had  to  get 
another.  The  road,  or  path,  was  very  narrow,  and  several  very 
deep  ravines  that  made  bad  crossing. 

I  reached  this  place  a  few  minutes  before  sundown,  when  I 
pitched  my  tent.  There  are  only  about  a  dozen  houses.  Three 
miles  from  Chakote,  on  the  opposite  bank,  passed  a  fort  named 
Kila.  I  also  saw  a  wedding  possession  which  was  preceded  by  a 
drum.  The  people  denied  having  any  chickens,  which  I  wanted 
for  dinner.  I  at  last  discovered  two,  and  set  some  of  my  people 
to  catch  them.  The  owner  was  discovered — an  old  hag, 
who,  by  way  of  revenge,  though  I  paid  her  double  their  value, 
took  up  a  position  in  front  of  my  tent  door  and  howled  until  I 
threatened  to  have  her  taken  to  the  river  and  ducked  if  she 
did  not  clear  out  altogether.  This  threat  succeeded  in  starting 
her.  I  find  I  was  near  having  a  private  conflagration  in  my  tent 
last  night,  the  hot  stone  having  burnt  through  the  sheet,  blanket, 
and  bed,  without  my  being  aware  of  it  until  this  evening. 

Jan.  9th,  Maira,  18  miles. — This  morning  as  usual  detained 


422  FKOM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

for  Coolies.  We  left  the  Jhelum,  and  in  four  hours  ascended  to 
Chikar,  where  is  a  fort.  Although  I  had  sent  a  servant  ahead 
to  ask  for  Coolies,  I  was  obliged  to  wait  an  hour  and  a  half  more, 
as  all  my  other  Coolies  refused  to  go  any  further,  though  all  were 
very  lightly  loaded. 

Leaving  Chikar,  descended  into  a  valley  and  then  rose  a  hill 
about  2000  feet  high,  the  summit  commanding  a  magnificent 
view ;  we  then  descended  to  this  place,  consisting  of  half  a  dozen 
houses. 

All  day  I  have  been  enjoying  the  luxury  of  a  horse,  saddle, 
and  stirrups,  the  saddle  with  a  horn  in  front  five  inches  high. 
The  only  use  I  could  apply  it  to  was  to  crack  some  nuts  on  it. 
Arriving  here,  the  cutwal  only  half  supplied  my  wants.  When 
I  requested  more  and  produced  the  Maharajah's  purwancr,  as 
my  authority,  he  coolly  walked  off  home,  as  I  found  a  few  minutes 
afterwards.  Now  a  hungry  traveller  can't  dine,  with  less  than 
some  soup,  a  roast  or  a  grill,  and  some  dessert, :  and  I  started  off  with 
a  Cooly,  and  my  big  cane  to  look  the  "  gent "  up.  Finding  he 
lived  too  far,  I  made  known  my  wants  to  some  of  the  villagers, 
who  pretended  not  to  understand,  and  indulged  in  some  witticisms 
at  my  expense,  as  I  judged  from  seeing  my  Cooly  enjoying  a 
quiet  laugh.  So  I  eked  out  my  Hindoostanee  with  my  cane, 
which  produced  instant  civility,  and  a  comprehension  of  my 
wants. 

In  very  few  minutes  a  pair  of  chickens  and  some  eggs  were 
produced.  As  soon  as  T  got  into  my  tent,  I  heard  the  Cooly 
relating,  with  much  glee,  to  the  servants  and  the  Coolies,  all  the 
proceedings,  w^hich  they  seemed  to  enjoy  highly. 

To-morrow  I  shall  have  to  assert  the  dignity  of  the  Maharajah 
and  myself,  by  pulling  the  cutwal's  beard,  and  giving  him  a 
drubbing — for  pardoning  insolence  is  never  appreciated  here,  but 
looked  upon  as  meanness  or  cowardice,  though  the  man  may 
escape  a  flogging  by  it. 

As  we  are  encamped  in  very  open  ground,  there  is  a  great 
preparation  against  robbers,  everything  being  packed  in  my  tent 


PHiLOSorHY.  423 

so  that,  however  insecure  it  may  be  against  being  entered,  it  will 
take  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  get  out.  And  then  by  way  of  sleep- 
ing comfortably,  the  servants  have  made  their  straw  beds  against 
the  front  of  the  tent. 

Jan.  Will,  DuNNA,  10  miles. — Though  we  were  all  moving  at 
daylight,  and  ready  for  an  early  start,  I  had  to  wait  three  hours 
for  Coolies,  which  was  endured  with  native  philosophy,  and  con- 
solatory thought,  that  I  should  probably  reach  Eawul  Pindee 
some  time  this  week,  or  the  next,  and  if  not  until  the  week  after — 
why  better  3^et.  Enshallah !  so  took  my  rifle  and  had  a  little 
practice  at  target  shooting. 

The  cutwal  did  not  make  his  appearance,  knowing  what  he 
deserved,  and  fearing  he  might  get  it.  While  waiting  for  the 
Coolies,  my  bearer  went  to  secure  the  horses  I  had  yesterday,  and 
shouted  out  to  me  the  boys  were  taking  them  away.  So  going 
up  to  the  place  I  found  they  were  nearly  ready  for  a  "  stampede." 
However,  I  stopped  that,  and,  after  various  other  difficulties,  at 
last  we  got  off". 

I  descended  to  a  deep  valley,  and  crossed  by  a  ferry  the  Ugga 
Muddur  river;  then  rose  about  3000  feet  in  five  miles  to 
Dumma,  w^here  we  arrived  at  two  o'clock.  After  waiting  three 
hours  in  vain  for  Coolies  I  had  the  tent  pitched.  There  is  a  fort 
here  with  square  towers,  and  portal  built  of  mud.  The  thanadar 
is  off,  and  the  cutwal  is  out  shooting. 

Jan.  11th,  Dewal,  17  miles. — After  our  usual  delay  for  Coo- 
lies we  got  off  at  half-past  eight,  with  a  Sepoy  to  guard  the 
Coolies,  and  prevent  their  running  away.  The  path  was  a  very 
rough  one.  "\Ye  continued  to  ascend  for  some  time,  and  then 
winding  along  the  edge  of  hills  descended  to  the  Jhelum  at 
Kwaollie  ferry,  a  distance  of  seven  miles.  Here  the  river  is  from 
sixty  to  seventy  yards  wide.  "We  crossed  in  a  large  scow,  rowed 
with  one  oar  by  two  men,  and  two  steered  by  another,  both  made 
after  the  fashion  of  Polyphemus'  club,  from  the  trunk  of  a  pine 
tree,  hewn  down  to  a  sort  of  blade. 


424  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Then,  witli  the  exception  of  our  descent  crossing  the  Eawur 
Muddur,  it  was  one  continual  ascent  to  this  place.  Half  way 
we  passed  a  great  number  of  scattered  houses  at  a  place  called 
Bogree.  Here  is  a  fort.  I  found  the  thanadar  very  civil.  The 
Jhelum  is  visible  about  two  miles  distant,  meandering  through 
the  narrow  valley.  On  a  high  hill  opposite  is  another  mud 
fort,  and  a  number  of  houses.  On  the  right  of  this  place,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  a  deep  valley,  is  another  village.  This  has  quite 
a  large  scattered  population. 

I  saw  a  party  escorting  a  bride  to  her  new  abode.     She  was 

dressed  in  white,  with  a  bundle  on  her  head.     The  entire  country 

through  which  I  have  come  to-day,  is  terraced  from  the  valley 

"to  the  summits  of  the  mountains,  and  apparently  fertile, — but  the 

population  very  inadequate  to  its  wants. 

The  scenery,  everywhere  fine,  has  been  magnificent  to-day. 
The  natives  appear  to  grow  a  large  quantity  of  Indian  corn, 
.and  a  coarse  kind  of  radish ;  the  two  forming  the  principal  food 
of  the  working  class.  I  have  been  obliged  to  take  to  a  donkey 
again,  with  my  cloak  for  a  saddle,  and  my  legs  practising  pen- 
dulum work.  It  is  just  ten  o'clock,  and  my  efficient  domestics 
kaving  brought  me  the  soup,  I'll  not  delay  the  dinner  any  longer, 
so  bon  nuit. 

Jan.  Vlili^  MuRREE. — I  am  happy  to  say  I  am  once  more  on 
English  territory,  and  I  believe  beyond  all  further  annoyance  from 
Coolies  and  village  authorities.  To-day,  delayed  as  usual  for 
•Coolies,  then  starting  on  a  donkey,  my  kitmagar  ditto ;  our  road 
-was  a  narrow  rough  path  w^ith  continued  ascent  to  this  place.  1 
passed  through  a  forest  whose  familiar  trees — firs,  pines,  oaks,  and 
.shrubs,  strongly  reminded  me  of  the  United  States.  The  valley 
looked  beautiful,  and  very  productive.  England  made  a  terrible 
and  cruel  mistake  when  she  sold  Cashmere,  with  a  climate  for 
almost  every  product  except  the  especially  tropical  fruits.  It 
produces  sugar-cane,  olives,  and  plantains,  of  the  south;  and 
the    more    northern    fruits    and    grains,    wheat,    corn,    apples, 


RAWUL   PINDEE.  425 

peaches,  pears, — and  grapes  from  wliicli  a  tolerable  wine  is 
made. 

The  forest  trees  are  of  the  finest  description,  gigantic  deodar 
cedars,  walnuts,  etc,  To-daj  I've  seen  a  species  of  holly  and  a 
number  of  daffodils  in  bloom.  This  place  is  a  resort  of  the  offi- 
cers stationed  at  Rawul  Pindee  about  forty  miles  south,  a  new 
station  formed  by  Sir  Charles  Napier  after  the  last  Punjaub  war, 
to  watch  Goolaub  Singh, 

There  are  numerous  bungalows  here,  finished,  finishing,  and 
building.  But  as  yet  no  travellers'  bungalow,  so  I  resort  to  my 
tent  again.  It  is  very  cold,  and  in  addition  to  my  foot-stone,  I 
am  compelled  to  have  one  for  my  lap  to  keep  my  fingers  warm 
enough  to  hold  my  pen,  while  I  try  and  finish  some  letters  to 
send  off  from  Rawul  Pindee. 

Jan.  ISth,  Tkait,  13  miles. — I  am  lodged  in  a  tolerable  bun- 
galow to-night,  and  having  had  a  comfortable  dinner,  I  am  try- 
ing to  enjoy  myself  before  a  fine  fire,  getting  here  in  a  precious 
bad  humor,  from  having  been  obliged  to  walk  the  entire  distance, 
when  I  had  a  lame  leg.  The  road  is  a  continual  descent  all  the 
way.  It  is  good  for  riding  or  driving.  The  place  is  very  pret- 
tily situated. 

To-morrow  I  shall  push  through  to  Rawul  Pindee,  and  let  my 
people  follow  in  two  marches.  I  have  succeeded  in  obtaining  a 
lean  horse,  and  a  donkey,  with  Coolies  for  my  luggage.  One  of 
these  pleaded  sickness,  but  I  pulled  out  my  hunting-knife  and  a 
cork-screw,  and  proposed  making  an  incision  in  his  arm,  and 
removing  a  piece,  as  an  admirable  specific ;  whereupon  he  dis- 
covered he  was  very  much  better,  and  would  soon  be  quite  well 
again. 

Jan.  lAih,  Rawul  Pindee,  27  miles.— I  started  at  half  past 
seven  this  morning,  and  my  people  too.  I  ojily  had  to  pummel 
the  horseman  and  thanadar  for  refusing  to  give  me  a  saddle 
after  they  had  promised  it  with  their  horse,  and  a  little  "Uncle 
Tom"  besides,  for  keeping  me  waiting  while  they  went  after  it. 


426  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

The  road,  the  first  third  of  the  way,  lialf  path,  half  native  cart 
road.  The  country  is  rather  wild  and  pretty.  I  passed  several 
small  tents  of  engineers  superintending  some  bridges  and  new 
road,  then  some  small  villages,  and  so  on  into  the  flat  country 
of  the  Punjaub,  reaching  this  place  at  half-past  three.  Eawul 
Pindee  is  only  a  medium  native  town,  though  much  improved 
since  the  English  made  the  place  a  station.  It  is  not  visible 
until  you  have  approached  within  two  miles.  The  cantonments 
are  nearly  a  mile  beyond, 

I  rode  up  to  the  mess-house  and  found  where  Capt.  C 

lived.     I  heard  he  had  gone  out  for  a  drive,  and  was  puzzled 

to  decide  whether  to  stop  here  or  at  another  officer's,  P 

had  given  me  a  letter  to.  However,  I  decided  to  stop  here,  and 
had  only  just  dismounted,  when  an  officer  of  his  regiment  came 

in,  and  finding  C out,  and  me  alone,  he  took  me  over  to 

the  mess-house  to  lunch. 

On  our  return  C came  in.     P ,  with  his  usual 

forgetfulness,  had  not  sent  the  introduction  by  mail  as  he  said 
he  should ;  luckily  he  had  given  me  a  letter  of  introduction,  or  I 

should  have  felt  very  awkward.     C was  glad  to  see  me, 

and  had  written  me  a  note  which  was  with  my  dhooly  at  a  station 
nearer  Peshawur,  the  way  he  thought  I  would  come  by,  to  ask 
me  to  make  him  a  visit.  This  evening  dined  with  the  mess  of 
his  regiment,  the  87th  Eoyal  Irish,  where  I  made  a  number  of 
acquaintances,  and  had  a  very  pleasant  time. 

Jan.  loth. — This  morning  breakfasted  at  Capt.  C 's,  a 

brother  officer  of  C 's;   they  live  nearly  oj)posite  each 

other,  and,  for  companionship,  breakfast  alternately  at  each 
other's  houses. 

After  breakfast  C and  I  went  to  church.     Then  drove 

to  the  camp  of  Col.  B ,  C.B.,  82d  (Queen's),  to  whom  I 

had  a  letter  of  introduction  from  his  cousin  M ,  of  15th 

Hussars,  Bangalore.  I  found  him  a  very  jolly  old  fellow.  He 
and  his  regiment  are  marching  down  country  from  Peshawur. 


A  DRIVE   IN  A  MAIL-CART.  427 

As  he  (of  course)  will  not  be  at  Pesliawur,  he  gave  me  two 

letters,   one  to    Major  E ,  C.B.,  the  Commissioner,   and 

another  to  the  Deputy  Commissioner   at    Peshawur,  the  two 
"  burra  sahibs"  (great  men)  of  the  place. 

In  the  afternoon  wc  took  a  short  ride,  and  on  our  return  we 

dined  at  C 's,  where  we  met  Col.  B ,  and  several 

other  officers,  and  had  a  delightful  time.     My  servants  came  in 
this  evening. 


*o- 


Jan.  IQth,  Hassan  Abdul. — Paid  off,  and  got  rid  of  all  my 
Coolies  ;  packed  up,  and  sending  my  servant  off  for  Lahore,  and 
to  meet  me  at  Delhi,  while  I  start  for  Peshawur.  I  came  on  by 
mail-cart  to  this  place  with  my  luggage, — and  such  a  drive  Pve 
never  taken,  and  hope  not  to  do  again.  The  mail-cart  is  a 
vehicle  on  two  wheels,  without  springs  ;  a  box  to  put  the  mail  in, 
and  on  the  top  two  seats,  back  to  back.  I  sat  on  the  rear  one ; 
we  had  balking  horses  at  every  stage,  requiring  to  be  pushed 
both  up  and  down  hill.  As  for  the  gullies,  as  we  approached 
them,  the  driver  gave  an  extra  cut  with  his  cudgel,  and  they 
were  "taken  flying,"  nearly  smashing  my  head  to  a  jelly. 
Sometimes  the  horses  reared,  and  they  reared  so  high,  we  rather 
feared  they  would  fall  backwards.  But  to  crown  all,  we  got 
within  200  yards  of  the  bungalow,  when  horses  and  cart  all 
upset — I  luckily  managed  to  land  safely,  when  we  got  righted. 
No  one  was  injured,  though  the  driver  and  syce  were  somewhat 
jammed.  After  getting  dinner  at  the  bungalow,  I  was  off  in 
my  dhooly. 

Jan.  17th,  Nowsiiera. — This  morning  I  reached  Attock  at 
half-past  eight ;  we  came  precious  slow.  The  last  lot  of  bearers, 
I  found  on  waking  up,  had  dropped  me,  and  were  enjoying  a 
fire  they  had  kindled,  while  the  dhooly  and  I  rested  on  the 
road.  So  I  quoted  "Uncle  Tom"  with  my  hunting-whip,  for 
their  having,  by  delays,  disarranged  all  my  plans.  The  road 
was  horribly  dusty,  and  bearers  very  bad — yoking  themselves  by 


428  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

a  cross-piece  to  the  pole,  instead  of  carrying  it  on  their  shoul- 
ders, like  the  other  bearers.  The  consequence,  an  awful 
jolting,  and  an  occasional  jar,  for  by  a  slip  the  dhooly  would 
drop  on  the  ground.  I  passed  a  large  number  of  baggage 
waggons  and  soldiers,  going  down  to  Ravf ul  Pindee. 

Attock  is  situated  on  a  bend  of  the  Indus,  which  is  very  wide 
above  the  town,  but  I  will  give  a  more  particular  description 
when  I  return.  Then  I  shall  stop  and  see  it, — now  I  mvist  hasten 
on,  or  I  may  lose  my  dak.  I  came  slowly  on  to  this  place, 
where  there  is  a  temporary  force.  Near  here,  the  hill  people 
come  down  in  parties  at  night,  and  steal,  often  stopping  tra- 
vellers. 

Jan.  18tJi,  Peshawur. — I  got  here  this  morning  at  four,  and 
not  finding  a  dak  bungalow,  I  went  to  the  Post  Ofl&ce,  where, 
after  putting  my  two  carpet  bags  under  charge  of  the  Sepoy,  and 
my  dhooly  under  his  eyes,  I  pulled  down  the  curtains,  and 
finished  my  nap ;  for  owing  to  the  various  delays  at  places  on 
the  road,  and  last  night,  I  have  got  here  about  ten  hours  later 
than  I  expected.  Besides  the  roads  are  very  unsafe  at  night ; 
all  last  night  I  had  a  siwar  guard,  and  with  that,  my  arms  and 
luck,  I  trusted  to  get  through  safely,  and  did  luckily,  without 
occasion  for  any  of  my  safeguards  ;  and  as  the  siwar  guard  was 
by  the  side  of  the  dhooly  I  went  to  sleep,  knowing  he  would 
stick  by  me,  and  I  should  be  awoke.  Now  I  find  I  passed 
through  all  the  bad  part  of  the  road  before  taking  the  siwar. 

On  waking  up  at  seven,   I  found  that  Capt.  S was  the 

officer  who  had  charge  of  the  Post  Ofiice,  and  that  I  had  been 
sleeping  before  his  door. 

Now  a  word  on  appointments,  which  you  probably  do  not 
understand.  The  service  is  divided  into  civil  and  military,  who 
are  or  are  not  educated  at  home,  in  colleges  for  the  purpose, 
according  to  circumstances.  The  civilians  are  termed  cove- 
nanted and  uncovenanted.  The  former  are  so  termed  from 
being  appointed  by  friends  or  fimiily  in  the  Board  of  Directors 


THE   COVENANTED   AND   UNCOVENANTED   SERVICE.        429 

in  England,  and  are  usually  educated  at  Halebury  College.  They 
come  out  at  about  nineteen,  and  are  collectors  of  moneys,  taxes, 
etc.,  deputies  and  assistants,  according  to  ability  and  service.  K 
lucky,  they  rise  to  judgeships,  secretaries  of  state,  councils  of 
the  presidencies,  presidents  at  the  courts  of  the  native  princes, 
supreme  council,  and  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  north-west 
provinces,  with  salaries  varying  from  400  rupees  ($200)  a  month, 
to  £10,000  ($50,000)  a  year;  and  I  believe  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  the  North-west  Provinces  receives  £12,000. 

The  uncovenanted  are  those  who  receive  pay  while  doing 
duty,  but  can  get  no  leave  of  absence  without  losing  their  posi- 
tion, and  receive  no  pension  when  they  retire  from  the  country ; 
while  the  covenanted  civilians  get  sick  leave  to  go  to  the 
"Cape,"  or  England,  and  if  compelled  to  retire  after  ten  years  of 
service,  are  allowed  a  certain  pension,  and  after  thirty-five  years 
a  very  large  pension.  Always  after  ten  years  service  tliey  are 
allowed  six  months  to  prepare  to  leave  the  country,  and  two 
years'  absence  without  losing  their  position  or  pay. 

The  military  come  out  as  cadets,  from  sixteen  to  twenty ; 
often  they  are  educated  at  Addiscombe;  and  if  to  go  in  the 
artillery  or  engineers,  it  is  absolutely  indispensable.  Besides, 
when  they  get  here,  those  who  have  ambition,  qualify  them- 
selves in  Hindoostanee  and  Persian,  and  by  passing  the  examina- 
tion, may  be  appointed  interpreters,  as  they  are  called,  for  their 
regiment,  and  receive  additional  pay  ;  or  by  cleverness  get  on  the 
staff,  which  brings  extra  pay ;  or  adjutant  of  his  regiment,  or 
luckier  still,  get  a  civil  appointment,  which  carries  with  the  civil 
pay  the  regimental  pay,  and  promotion  from  time  to  time.  Per- 
haps sometimes  they  get  put  in  an  irregular  cavalry  regiment, 
where  the  pay  is  high,  sometimes  postmasters,  etc.  There  are  a 
great  variety  of  offices — an  ambitious,  clever,  hard-working  man 
may  get  if  he  works — and  comes  to  India  to  do  otherwise  than 
merely  drag  along.  Many  get  so  in  debt  by  horse-racing,  or 
gambling,  that  they  are  obliged  to  borrow  money  of  the  banks. 
To  do  that,  they  must  insure  their  lives,  and  the  rates  of  interest 


430  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

being  liigli,  it  altogetlicr  makes  about  twenty  per  cent,  on  the 
sum  borrowed,  and  they  are  thus  prevented  leaving  the  country. 

A  few  years  ago  one  of  the  banks  broke,  and  there  was  great 
rejoicing,  for  lots  of  these  fellows  were  released  and  able  to  go  to 
England,  when,  otherwise,  they  would  have  lived  and  died  in 
India. 

But  to  return  to  my  subject.     I  sent  in  my  card,  and  Capt. 

S came  out  and  welcomed  me.     Showing  me  my  room, 

I  proceeded  to  make  myself  respectable  after  my  late  dusting, 
for  face  and  clothes  were  of  an  indescribable  hue.     Capt.  and 

Jkf  PS.  S went  out  for  their  morning  ride :  at  breakfast  I  was 

presented  to  her  and  was  charmed.     She  has  evidently  been  very 
pretty,  but  suffered  in  health  from  the  Indian  climate.     She  has 

the  face  and  manners  of  E R ,  whom  we  all  think 

so  lovely. 

The  climate  of  India,  I  find,  affects  women  much  more  than 
men  who  are  prudent,  as  they  are  prevented  from  taking  exer- 
cise by  the  heat,  while  the  men  must  take  the  exercise  in  per- 
forming the  duties  of  their  service.     Ladies  are  obliged  to  go 

home  every  six  or  seven  years  to  recruit.     Mrs.  S has  been 

here  eight,  and  is  going  home  in  a  few  months. 

A  letter  fi-om  my  banker  at  Calcutta  informs  me  my  boxes 
have  been  shipped  for  New  York.  I  also  had  a  letter  from 
F ,  at  Lahore,  who  writes  for  me  to  hurry  back,  as  "  pig- 
sticking" has  commenced,  and  he'll  furnish  me  with  a  "mount" 
and  spears. 

In  hunting  the  boar,  here  they  go  on  the  ground  well  mounted, 
and  armed  with  a  boar-spear  with  reed  handle  about  nine  feet 
long ;  the  spear  head  is  light  and  sharp.  The  brute  is  then  beat 
out  of  the  jungle  by  the  natives,  and  the  moment  he  is  seen  all 
put  after  him  at  full  speed,  and  the  man  who  can  fix  the  pig 
with  his  spear  behind  the  shoulder  first  is  best  fellow.  Sometimes 
lie  stands  at  bay,  then  he  is  dangerous  ;  but  with  a  well-trained, 
bold  horse,  and  steady  hand,  there  is  not  much  danger,  as  you 
ward  off  his  attack  by  a  thrust  in  front  in  his  shoulder,  and  the 


A   CONVERSATION   ON   SLAVERY.  431 

Arab  horse  appears  to  understand  by  instinct  that  this  is  his 
time  to  get  out  of  the  way.  They  are  usually  very  careless  and 
sloachy  in  their  gait.  But  after  a  gallop  their  eyes  sparkle,  and 
they  seem  to  have  woke  up.  In  hunting  they  are  wondrous 
quick  on  their  feet,  and  will  wheel  almost  as  if  on  a  pivot  if 
necessary,  even  when  going  at  full  gallop.  They  are  most  lova- 
ble animals. 

After  breakfast  this  morning,  while  I  was  sitting  alone  in  the 

parlor,  an  officer  of  between  forty  and  fifty  (a  Col.  D ) 

entered,  we  bowed,  and  after  a  few  minutes  conversation  about 
India,  travelling,  etc.,  he  said,  "  I  believe  you  are  from  America." 
I  told  him  I  was.  "  Well-11  I've  lately  received  a  letter  from 
a  lawj-er  near  Fredericksburg,  in  Virginia,  in  which  he  says  my 
brother  and  I  have  inherited  an  estate  with  some  slaves,  and  he 
wants  me  to  sign  a  power  of  attorney  for  him  to  act  for  me. 
Do  you  know  what  the  land  and  slaves  are  worth  ?"  I  told  him, 
although  from  New  York,  a  free  state,  yet  I  had  many  southern 
friends  and  acquaintances,  and  from  hearing  them  speak  of  the 
prices  of  slaves,  I  could  give  him  a  general  idea  if  he  could  tell 
me  their  age,  sex,  ability,  and  capacity  for  particular  work  ;  but 
I  suppose  you  mean  to  free  them,  perhaps  send  them  to  Liberia, 
as  a  ship  leaves  Baltimore,  a  neighboring  city,  several  times  a 
year  for  this  free  settlement  of  blacks.  "Ko,  no,  I  think  I  shall 
sell  them,  they  will  be  so  much  happier  in  the  country  where 
they  have  always  lived." 

Having  seen  two  copies  of  "  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin"  lying  on  the 
table  (as  Capt.  S has  the  circulating  library  of  the  regi- 
ment at  his  house),  I  thought  I  would  have  a  little  fun.  So  I 
said,  "  Perhaps  you  are  not  aware  of  what  a  shocking  system 
slavery  in  the  United  States  is,  and  how  repulsive  to  every  sen- 
timent of  religion  and  humanity.  You  have  been  many  years 
in  India,  and  perhaps  have  never  heard  of  all  the  atrocities  com- 
mitted on  the  poor  slaves.  If  j'ou  will  read  a  book  lately  written 
by  Mrs.  Stowe  called  '  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,'  of  which  I  see  there 
are  one  or  two  copies  belonging  to  the  regimental  library,  you 


432  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

will  probably  change  your  mind  on  tbe  subject  of  selling  them." 
"  No,  I  don't  care  to  read  the  book,  for  I've  made  up  my  mind 
to  sell  them,  they  will  be  happier,  and  I  would  like  to  have  the 
money."  I  argued  in  favor  of  freeing  them,  citing  the  Duchess 
of  Sutherland,  and  talked  of  "shades  of  Wilberforce,"  while  he 
argued  in  favor  of  selling  them  for  their  happiness  and  his  money, 
for  a  few  minutes  longer,  until  I  had  carried  the  joke  far  enough 
to  find  an  Englishman's  sympathy  for  slaves  very  disinterested 
as  long  as  it  does  not  affect  his  own  pocket.  So  he  gave  me  the 
description  of  the  land  and  slaves,  Sam,  Juno,  etc.,  and  I  told 
him  their  value  as  well  as  I  could  by  guess. 

Notwithstanding  all  the  pretended  sympathy  of  the  English  in 
England,  and  some  few  in  India,  for  slaves,  the  English  in  India, 
as  a  general  rule,  have  very  much  the  same  idea,  as  to  the  natives, 
that  we  have  as  to  negroes ;  and  like  all  people  who  feel  they 
wont  be  likely  to  be  held  accountable  for  their  acts,  they  strike 
and  kick  the  natives  whenever  it  suits  them.  The  kicking 
sometimes  gets  them  into  difficulty,  as  the  native  is  so  subject  to 
spleen,  which  kicking  brings  on  and  kills. 

I  have  been  breakfasting  with  an  officer  and  his  wife  when 
I've  seen  the  officer  spring  up  from  table  and  strike  the  "  child- 
man"  (as  the  man-nurse  is  called),  half  a  dozen  hard  blows  with 
his  fist,  and  kick  him  before  us  both,  because  the  man,  in  playing 
with  the  child,  happened  to  make  him  cry. 

An  officer  told  me,  that  at  the  fairs  at  Hurdwar  slaves  were 
bought  and  sold  every  year — only  it  is  done  quietly.  /  know 
that  there  are  great  numbers  within  a  hundred  miles  of  Calcutta, 
who  belong  to  the  soil,  and  are  bought  and  sold  with  it.  On  the 
Malabar  Coast  in  Southern  India,  there  are  great  numbers  of  slaves. 

While  staying  at  the  house  of  a  Judge  in  Southern  India,  some 
ladies  and  gentlemen  were  deprecating  slavery  in  the  United 
States  in  the  usual  sympathetic  style,  and  lauding  England's 
disinterestedness  and  nobleness  in  freeing  the  slaves  in  Jamaica, 
etc.,  when  the  Judge  interrupted  them  with  saying,  it  was  all 
stuff  about  England's  disinterestedness ;  that  she  did  so  when  it 


MAJOR  EDWARDS.  433 

suited  lier  purposes,  but  that  there  were  plenty  of  places  in  India 
where  slavery  existed,  and  that  too  with  the  full  knowledge  of 
government,  and  he,  as  a  judge,  had  often  made  out  orders  jor  the 
sale  of  slaves. 

After  the  slave-dealing  Colonel  had  left,  Lieutenant  M 

of  S 's  regiment  came  in,  a  very  nice  fellow.     As  S 

is  overwhelmed  with  business,  being  on  the  staff,  M has 

offered  to  show  me  the  town  to-morrow. 

This  afternoon  Captain,  Mrs.  S ,  and  I,  took  a  long 

walk,  the  buggy  and  S 's  horse  following.    We  were  soon 

joined  by  Major  W ,  of  the  artillery,  a  great  friend  of 

the  Captain  and  Mrs.  S 's.     Mrs.  S getting  tired 

walking,  I  drove  her  in  the  buggy,  while  S and  Major 

"W went  off  for  a  gallop. 

Jan.  19ih. — Captain  and  Mrs.  S took  their  usual  gallop 

this  morning.  I  preferred  remaining  at  home — the  pressure 
against  the  saddle  paining  my  lame  leg,  though  I  can  walk  half  a 
dozen  miles  without  inconvenience.     Had  a  number  of  morning 

visitors  (Mrs.  S being  a  great  favorite) ;  among  them  a 

Lieutenant  E ,  of  the  artillery,  son  of  General  R , 

to  whom  I  have  a  letter  of  introduction  from  his  cousin  M , 

of  the  loth  Hussars,  Bangalore,  He  says  his  father  has  lately 
gone  to  England. 

S went  with  me  to  call  on  Major  Edwards,  and  present 

my  letter  from  Colonel  B ,  of  the  32d  Queen's.     He  is  the 

Commissioner  of  all  this  part  of  the  country,  and  was  appointed 
in  the  place  of  Colonel  Mackinson,  who  was  assassinated  some 
months  since.  He  is  a  young  man  for  the  position,  but  is  very 
prominent,  for  he  has  always,  under  the  trying  circumstances 
he  has  from  time  to  time  been  placed,  shown  fine  abilities.  The 
Deputy  Commissioner,  to  whom  I  also  have  a  letter,  is  out  at 
the  camp  near  the  Kohaut  Pass,  which  is  closed  at  present,  there 
being  some  difficulty  with  the  hill  people.  So  I  shall  not  be- 
able  to  see  it,  as  I  hoped. 

28 


434  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

Eeturning  to  S 's,  finding  M ,  we  rode  down  to 

the  city,  which  is  a  mile  and  a  half  distant.  The  principal  streets 
are  wide,  but  the  weather  being  cold,  the  people  did  not  "  shine 
out"  as  in  warmer  days.  The  houses  are  common-looking,  and 
of  mud  and  stone,  whitewashed.  The  wares  and  merchandise 
arc  of  all  kinds,  the  furs  and  silks  being  the  most  curious.  T 
saw  no  really  valuable  furs.  I  bought  one  piece  of  silk,  for 
curiosit}'- ;  it  is  from  Bokhara.  One  side  is  glazed,  like  chintz. 
I  saw  them  winding  floss  silk ;  the  colors  were  principally  red, 
purple,  and  yellow  (the  favorite  Sikh  colors)  which  were  very 
brilliant. 

The  bazaar  is  an  octagonal  place,  with  the  shops  around  the 
sides  of  the  interior,  the  rest  being  open.  I  saw  them  pounding 
coloring  matter  in  stone  and  wooden  pots.  The  red  is  a  mineral 
dye,  but  of  what  substance  I  cannot  learn.  I  then  went  to  the 
snuff-makers.  They  grow  very  good  tobacco  in  Islamabad,  and 
here  it  is  manufactured  into  capital  snuff.  The  boxes  are  round 
balls  hollowed  out,  with  an  aperture  for  the  snuff  the  size  of  a 
large  quill. 

We  got  some  fruit  for  Mrs.  S .     It  comes  from  Cabnl, 

in  boxes  or  bales,  packed  in  cotton,  and  these  bales  again  in 
larger  ones,  the  size  of  cotton  bales,  and  brought  by  camels. 
The  grapes  are  in  boxes  like  fig-drums,  each  grajoe  by  itself, 
with  layers  of  cotton  and  grapes  alternately.  The  apples  were 
fine,  but  not  as  highly  flavored  as  ours.  They  also  had  dried 
apricots  and  figs. 

This  afternoon  I  received  an  invitation  for  dinner  to-morrow 
evening,  from  Major  and  Mrs.  Edwards,  which  I  declined,  Mr. 

S having   previously  accepted    one  for  me  elsewhere. 

M dined  with  us  this  evening. 

Jan  20th. — Raining  to-day.  This  morning  reading  the  papers, 
the  steamer  having  just  arrived.  To-day  several  visitors,  and 
this  evening  a  dinner-party  at  Major  L 's. 

Jan.  21st. — Raining  again.    Received  an  invitation  from  Lieu- 


PROWLING  KHYBERS.  435 

tenant  E ,  for  dinner  at  the  artillery  mess,  for  Monday 

evening.    This  afternoon,  having  cleared  up,  M called  and 

drove  me  out.  It  being  his  night  for  duty,  we  went  half  round 
the  station,  visiting  the  outposts;  then  to  hear  the  band.     This 

evening  to  the  mess  dinner  of  the  9th  Infantry,  S and 

M 's  regiment.     I  was  introduced  to  Colonel  L ,  the 

commanding  officer.     I  met  Colonel  D ,  and  several  others 

I  knew.      When  we  left   for    home.    Colonel    D and 

M were  about   starting  on   an  inspection   tour  of  the 

station,  a  circuit  of  six  or  seven  miles,  the  night  very  cloudy 
and  dark,  with  a  chance  of  meeting  a  Khyber  with  his  knife — 
a  medium  between  a  butcher's  cleaver  and  a  broadsword,  and 
sharp  as  a  razor,  being  carried  in  a  wooden  sheath,  like  all 
native  weapons — besides  a  sharp  ear  for  the  sentries'  challenges, 
or  a  chance  of  being  shot  by  mistake. 

This  place  is  only  about  four  miles  from  the  Khyber  Pass,  so 
celebrated  in  the  Afghanistan  campaign.  It  is  thronged  with 
Afghans  and  Khybers,  a  murderous  set ;  and  so  unsafe,  no  one 
dares  go  near  it.  They  are  obliged  to  keep  in  this  station,  and 
within  a  circuit  of  100  miles,  30,000  troops,  500  always  being 
on  guard  here.  The  cantonment  is  a  mile  from  the  city.  There 
are  several  European  and  the  native  regiments. 

A  year  ago,  while  a  lady  and  gentleman  were  riding  on  horse- 
back, they  noticed  two  men,  apparently  praying,  by  the  road- 
side, and  as  they  were  about  to  pass,  the  men  sprung  up  and 
seized  the  horses,  killed  the  officer,  and  robbing  both,  rode  off 
with  the  horses,  leaving  the  lady  to  walk  home.  The  officers 
always  have  their  buggies  brought  to  the  mess-house  before 
dark,  and  wait  there,  as  they  are  afraid,  if  they  are  brought  after 
dark,  prowling  Khybers  will  take  them  away  from  the  syces. 

Horses  are  constantly  cut  out  of  the  stables  by  the  Khybers 
during  the  wet  season,  though  a  guard  is  stationed  at  the  door. 
The  stables  are  built  of  kutcha,  or  unburnt  brick,  which,  as  it 
absorbs  much  of  the  moisture,  is  easy  to  cut.  The  Khybers  take 
advantage  of  this,  and  quietly  cut  a  hole,  large  enough  for  the 


436  FROM    WALL    STREET   TO    CASHMERE. 

horse  to  walk  out  of  on  the  opposite  side  from  the  guard,  and  as 
the  ground  is  wet  and  soft,  the  horse's  tread  is  not  heard.  Every 
house  has  its  guard,  who  makes  his  rounds  every  five  minutes, 
armed  with  loaded  gun,  fixed  bayonet,  and  sword : — thus  in 
entering  your  own  compound,  you  give  notice  to  your  guard,  or 
you  may  be  shot,  or  get  a  few  inches  of  bayonet. 

Jan.  22d. — Sunday ;  all  of  us  to  church,  morning  and  after- 
noon :  the  sermons  dull,  and  ladies  plain.  The  church,  at 
present,  is  in  the  masonic  lodge,  an  earthquahe  having  destroyed 
a  new  one  they  were  building.      This  afternoon  I  drove  Mrs. 

S around  the  cantonment.    This  evening,  Major  "W 

dined  with  us. 

Jan.  23fZ. — To-day  cloudy.    Major  W sent  an  elephant, 

and  S ,  M ,  and  I  went  to  see  the  "  Tamara"  (crowd, 

as  they  call  it),  some  native  festival,  the  name  of  which  we  could 
not  learn.  As  we  passed  through  the  city,  we  saw  great  num- 
bers of  women  and  children  on  the  low  flat  roofs,  many  with  an 
affair  which  formed  cap,  robe,  and  screen  for  their  faces.  They 
were  of  white,  and  the  screen  a  sort  of  hemstitch  grating  or 
openwork.  These  people,  and  the  Afghans,  are  very  jealous  of 
their  women. 

Then  out  of  the  city  at  the  opposite  side,  passing  into  the 
country,  and  going  about  three  miles.  The  entire  distance  was 
through  a  crowd  more  or  less  dense.  Arriving  at  the  spot  the 
crowd  became  greater,  and  extended  over  a  larger  space.  Here 
were  streets  of  pastry-cooks  making  bread,  frying  chipatties,  sau- 
sages, and  kibobs.     There  were  also  fruit  and  toy  venders. 

Horsemen  were  trying  to  spear  an  orange  as  they  galloped 
past  it  at  full  speed;  jugglers  were  climbing  reed  poles  with 
chatties  (earthen  jars)  on  their  heads ;  one  balanced  himself 
beautifully  on  the  centre  of  his  back,  on  a  pole  not  much  larger 
than  my  arm.  There  were  thousands  of  people  in  all  colors  and 
costumes,  and  on  every  sort  of  animal,  from  a  donkey  and  buf- 


A  SHOCK  FROM  AN  EARTHQUAKE,  437 

falo  to  an  elephant.  The  latter  are  capital  for  a  crowd,  raising 
you  above  everything,  while  they  move  so  carefully  through, 
you  never  need  feel  afraid  of  any  one  being  injured  by  them, 
however  dense  the  crowd  may  be.  You  have  rather  an  odd 
feeling  at  first,  when  they  descend  a  steep  hill,  or  cross  a  wide 
ditch  by  stepping  over. 

This  afternoon  M drove  me  out,  and  took  me  to  the 

artillery  mess.  There  were  great  numbers  present,  it  being 
guest  night.  I  knew  many  of  them,  and  was  introduced  to 
many  more ;  among  them  Colonel  Halifax,  of  the  7oth  Queen's, 
which  has  just  arrived  here;  he  reminded  me  much  of  father  in 
appearance.  I  had  a  very  pleasant  evening.  It  rained  as  we 
came  home. 

Jan.  lUli. — Nothing  new — been  raining  all  day.  This  even- 
ing dined  at  Colonel  B 's.    Not  being  able  to  go  to  Kohaut, 

I  am  waiting  impatiently  for  a  grand  review,  which  is  to  take 
place  on  Thursday.    Friday  I  am  to  dine  at  Major  Edwards, 

Jan.  2bili. — This  morning  a  daylight  walk  to  see  the  cavalry 
parade,  which  I  found,  on  getting  on  the  spot,  was  prevented  by 

the  wet  ground.     After  breakfast  M called  and  drove  me 

to  Colonel   L 's.     I  saw  him  and  Mrs.  L .     They 

invited  me  to  dine  wdth  them  on  Saturday,  which  I  was  obliged 

to  decline.     This  afternoon  M and  I  took  a  gallop  to  the 

city  to  see  some  Sikh  sword-blades,  but  could  not  find  any  worth 
buying. 

Last  night  there  was  quite  a  severe  shock  in  the  place  from  an 
earthquake.  I  had  sat  down  to  the  table  in  my  room  to  write  a 
letter,  and  falling  asleep,  was  awoke  by  some  little  birds  flutter- 
ing against  the  window.     Just  then  S came  in,  in  his 

chogar,  and  startled  me  by  saying,  "  I ,  if  you  feel  another 

one,  you  had  better  scuttle  out  of  your  dressing-room  door,  and 
Mrs.  S ,  the  children,  and  I  will  escape  out  of  her  dressing- 
room  door."  On  asking  what  was  the  matter,  he  told  me  they 
had  felt  the  shock  of  an  earthquake. 


438  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Jan.  26lh. — It  rained  very  hard  all  last  niglit  and  to-day.  The 
rain  for  several  nights  past,  has  made  great  change  in  the  grain 
markets.  The  poor  natives,  with  their  low  wages,  feeling  it  very 
much ;  besides  which,  there  are  apprehensions  of  a  famine  next 

year.     This  evening  Major  W dined  with  us,  a  family 

festival,  keeping  the  birthday  of  one  of  the  children — a  pretty 
little  fellow  of  four. 

After  dinner  S ,  his  wife,  and  AY were  sitting 

around  the  fire,  talking  about  Mrs.  S — '■ going  to  England 

with  the  children,  and  the  expense  (considerable  of  an  item  from 
this  extreme  northwest  of  the  country,  for  a  party  of  a  lady^ 
three  children,  and  nurse — somewhere  between  $1,500  and 
$2,000 — when  it  has  to  be  saved  out  of  a  captain's  pay).  In  the 
midst  of  the  calculation,  one  of  the  children,  who  were  clamber- 
ing on  and  over  an  arm  of  the  sofa,  fell  down.  I  was  standing 
by  the  fire  looking  at  the  children,  and  saw  the  boy  fall,  and 
that  it  was  only  an  ordinary  tumble.  As  they  started  up  in 
affright,  supposing  he  had  broken  his  neck,  I  exclaimed  there's 
£50  saved.  Finding  the  child  was  not  injured,  they  all  laughed 
at  my  calculating  Yankeeism,  as  they  termed  it. 

Yesterday  an  ofiicer  rode  into  his  mess  compound,  and  hooked 
his  bridle  to  the  post.  After  a  few  minutes  he  heard  a  horse's 
hoofs,  and  looked  out  of  the  window  to  see  if  his  horse  was 
standing  quiet,  when,  to  his  amazement,  he  saw  an  Afghan 
going  down  the  road  as  hard  as  he  could  on  his  own  horse,  that 
he  had  just  stolen. 


Jan.  27th. — Still  rainins;.  The  houses  here  are  all  built  of 
unburnt  brick,  and  so  absorb  much  of  the  water.  Our  house 
leaks  badly,  and  so  does  every  one  in  the  place.     This  morning 

I  received  a  note  from  Major  E ,  postponing  their  dinner 

party ;  the  weather  is  so  bad,  and  mud  so  deep,  the  roads  are 
almost  impassable.  While  at  breakfast,  an  ofiicer  came  in  to 
report  a  native  had  been  found  about  a  third  of  a  mile  from  the 
house,  with  his  throat  cut — S is  brigade  major. 


CONTINUED  RAIN.  439 

Jan.  2Sth. — More  rain;  partially  cleared  up,  and  I  got  a 
momentary  glimpse  of  the  sun  for  the  first  time  in  three  days. 
I've  been  amusing  the  children,  making  them  a  humming-top. 

Jem.  29ih.—Last  night  almost  a  deluge,  besides  thunder  and 
lightning.  The  roads  are  very  muddy,  and  the  clay  soil  makes 
them  so  slippery,  the  natives  can  but  just  move  light,  and  cer- 
tainly not  with  a  dhooly.  For  three  days  past  the  mail  has 
come  in  soaked. 

Yesterday  we  were  all  very  much  amused  by  a  note  from  the 
Brigadier  of  the  station,  who  in  his  old  age  has  taken  to  himself 
a  young  wife,  whose  first  move,  as  soon  as  possible,  was  to  start 
for  England.     Hearing  most  of  the  directions  were  illegible  from 

the  wet  state  of  the  mail-bags,  he  wrote  S to  open  any 

letter  he  suspected  as  his,  and  look  for  the  signature  "  Chickey," 
as  he  expected  a  letter  from  his  wife,  who  never  signed  her  own 
name.  We  thought  it  a  very  appropriate  designation  consider- 
ing the  disparity  of  years. 

Jan.  oOih. — Another  rainy  nignt ;  the  house  so  soaked,  every 
room  leaking,  and  some  fliirly  afloat ;  parts  of  the  best  houses 
are  constantly  falling,  and  if  the  rain  continues,  they  will  all  soon 
be  down,  and  the  people  tenting.  Our  house  is  leaking  so  that 
last  night  I  had  to  get  up  several  times  to  move  my  bed.  The 
houses  are  all  slightly  built,  the  station  not  having  been  occu- 
pied very  long,  and  the  officers,  when  they  built,  were  quite 
uncertain  how  long  they  would  be  allowed  to  remain. 

All  the  houses  in  the  different  stations  are  private  proj^erty, 
and  real  estate  is  not  very  desirable  property  to  hold,  as  in  most 
instances  the  money  for  building  is  borrowed  of  a  bank,  at  the 
rate  of  12  to  15  per  cent.,  besides  the   life  insurance,  which 

increases  it  to  nearly  25.     I  offered  Mrs.  S last  night  my 

life  preserver,  in  case  the  water  got  very  deep  in  her  room. 

I  have  been  trying  in  vain  to  find  out  something  of  the  history 
of  Peshawur,  but  people  here  know  much  more  of  parades,  drills,. 


440  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

kutcherrj  proceedings,  and  of  sucli  like,  than  of  Indian  history. 
If  there  had  been  an  American  missionary  here,  he  would  have 
told  me  all  about  it.  It  is  very  ancient,  and  for  centuries  was 
"picked  and  pulled"  by  the  contending  powers. 

Of  the  earlier  powers  I  know  nothing,  but  of  the  later  ones, 
Mussulman  and  Indian,  Afghan  and  Mahratta,  Afghan  and 
Sikh,  and  now  Afghan  and  Anglo-Saxon.  There  is  nothing  in 
the  city  denoting  antiquity.  But  then  it  is  the  custom  in  India 
to  build  of  such  frail  material,  that  almost  everything  perishes  in 
a  few  years. 

The  English  are  expecting  work  in  the  spring,  for  it  is  known 
that  30,000  additional  troops  are  on  their  way  up,  but  whether 
as  a  precautionary  move,  or  for  another  trip  to  Cabul  is  not 
known.  Now  that  they  are  in  possession  of  the  Punjaub  and 
Peshawur,  they  need  not  fear  such,  a  disastrous  campaign  as  the 
former  one. 

Among  the  odd  fashions  they  have  introduced  here,  is  that  of 
having  carpets  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  cotton-cloth,  stamped  in  pat- 
terns like  Brussels  and  other  handsome  carpets ; — being  laid  over 
mats,  they  would  not  be  detected  by  strangers,  except  on  close 
observation,  and  among  the  people  here,  they  are  quite  the 
"  mode,"  the  first  cost  being  small,  and  the  transport  cheap,  they 
are  so  light,  and  over  matting  they  last  a  long  time.  This  after- 
noon, it  having  cleared  up  a  little,  I  drove  Mrs.  S out,  the 

torse,  not  having  been  in  harness  for  nearly  a  week,  and  in  bis 
display  of  fine  spirits  almost  spilt  us  in  a  ditch. 

Jan.  31. — To-day  it  has  brightened  up  a  little.  The  carpenter 
who  has  been  working  at  my  dhooly  having  brought  it  home, 
I've  laid  my    dak,    and  shall  try  the  road  to-morrow  morn- 

mg.      Mrs.  S got    some    supplies    ready   for   me,    and 

they  were  much  amused  at  my  traveller  style  of  arranging 
them. 

S has  been  telling  me  this  evening,  what  a  "  roasting" 

Colonel  D has  had  at  all  the  messes  in  the  station,  for 


ATTOCK.  441 

coming  to  see  that  American,  to  price  and  inquire  about  selling 
his  Yirghiia  slave  property. 

Feb.  1,  Attock. — At  daylight  this  morning,  I  started  off  my 
dhooly  and  luggage,  while  I  delayed  for  a  comfortable  break- 
fast, and  then  galloped  after  my  things  which  I  overtook  twelve 
miles  out.     I  have  been  stopping  so  long  with  Captain  and  Mrs. 

S ,  they  seem  like  old  friends,  especially  Mrs.  S ,  who 

is  by  far  the  nicest  woman  I  have  met  in  India.  The  roads  were 
very  muddy.  I  passed  numerous  baggage  trains  belonging  to 
officers  and  soldiers  on  the  way  to  Peshawur. 

At  Nowshera  (half  way)  I  passed  two  or  three  regiments  of 
infantry  and  irregular  cavalry  in  camp,  and  then  on  to  this  place, 
a  distance  of  45  miles.  At  the  last  Poller  station  (it  being  dark) 
the  man  in  charge  inquired  if  I  wished  a  siwar ;  I  replied  yes, 
and  then  he  began  to  question  me  about  my  order  in  Hindostanee. 
I  pleaded  ignorance  of  Hindostanee,  and  asked  in  very  bad  lingo 
for  the  guard,  whom  he  ordered  up  (probably  supposing  I  was  a 
Queen's  officer),  and  then  I  started  again. 

I  reached  this  place  at  ten  in  the  evening,  and  as  the  bridge 
over  the  Indus  had  been  carried  away,  owing  to  the  rains, 
the  men  took  me  to  the  fort,  and  placed  the  dhooly  just  inside 
the  entrance,  and  luggage  at  its  side,  and  I  hope  to  sleep  comforta- 
bly in.  the  dhooly  to-night. 

Feb.  2,  HussAN  Abdul. — I  was  awoke  this  morning  by  the 
noise  in  the  fort.  Starting  the  men,  I  stopped  on  the  high  bank 
of  the  river  to  sketch  the  town  and  fortifications  on  the  opposite 
side,  which  looks  imposing  from  this.  Then  crossed  in  a  ferry- 
boat ;  the  river  running  very  rapidly.  Ascending  the  bank,  I 
passed  through  the  town.  It  is  an  ancient  citj^,  but  of  what  date 
I  cannot  learn.  Then  on  to  this  place  there  being  nothing  in  the 
city  to  see.  Its  chief  curiosities  are  its  old  Mahommedan  walls 
and  towers.  On  the  road  here  I  passed  a  wing  of  the  7oth  regi- 
ment (Queen's),  in  camp. 


442  FKOM  "WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

This  is  tHe  beautiful  valley  mentioned  in  Lalla  Eookh,  wliere 
tlie  Emperors  stopped  on  their  way  to  Cashmere.  How  they 
contrived  to  get  this  in  their  route  from  Delhi,  I  cannot  imagine. 
I  think  it  must  have  been  on  their  road  from  Cabul  (one  of  their 
capitals)  to  Cashmere.  There  is  a  small  valley  and  the  remains 
of  an  old  garden,  also  a  few  small  and  old  tombs.  I  shall  leave 
here  at  nine  this  evening,  and  then  on  by  night  dak  to  Eawul- 
Pindee. 

Feb.  3,  Eawul-Pindee. — ^Nothing  of  note  during  the  night. 
At  daylight  this  morning,  passing  the  lines  of  the  87th  regiment, 

I  saw  them  out  on  parade,  so  took  possession  of  C 's  house, 

and  had  completed  my  toilet  by  the  time  he  returned.     This 

afternoon  I  took  a  walk  around  the  cantonment  with  C ,  to 

see  the  improvements,  barracks,  gardens,  etc.  The  soldiers  receive 
twelve  cents  (of  our  money)  per  day  for  working — most  of  them 
are  very  willing  to  do  so,  and  it  is  of  great  benefit  this  cool  weather, 
as  by  their  drill  they  have  very  little  exercise  to  keep  them  in 
health.  When  we  returned,  I  went  to  the  mess-house  to  see  the 
papers,  and  this  evening  dined  there — and  being  guest  night  we 
had  the  band. 

Feb.  4. — It  is  quite  cold  here ;  we  see  quantities  of  snow  on 

the  mountains.     "We  had  an  of&cer,  Captain  C ,  of  the  87th 

to  breakfast  with  us.     Then  C and  I  rode  to  the  town,  and 

through  the  bazaars  which  are  rather  curious.  The  town  other- 
wise is  a  very  common  affair.     To  the  mess-house  for  lunch  ;  and 

this  afternoon  C had  his  company  out  at  ball  practice, 

and  shooting  by  sections.     They  shot  very  well. 

His  is  the  first  company  of  this,  which  is  a  grenadier  regiment. 
His  company  average  5if  th  feet — an  extraordinary  height.  I  am 
told  the  regimental  average  is  greater  than  that  of  any  regiment  of 
the  line  in  service. 

On  our  way  home,  we  met  Colonel  Tremanhere,  a  very  dis- 
tinguished engineer  officer.     C asked  him  to  dine  with 


JHELUM    AND    GOOJERANWALLAH.  443 

him,  but  lie  was  engaged  to  tlie  Colonel's,  and  said  lie  would,  if 
possible,  go  round  to  the  mess  to  see  me  if  he  could  get  away ; 

but  not  being  able  to  leave  the  Colonel's,  he  called  at  C 's. 

This  evening  I  dined  at  the  mess,  and  off  at  eleven. 

Feb.  5,  Jhelum. — We  jogged  along  all  night,  and  just  at  day- 
light I  saw  some  old  ruins,  one  of  which  was  called  Bucephalus' 
monument,  half  Mussulmanic,  half  Grecian — probably,  in  being 
repaired  by  the  Mussulmauns,  they  have  added  a  few  daubs  of 
their  taste.  However,  you  must  judge  for  yourself  from  my 
sketch. 

Part  of  the  road  we  have  come  is  horrible.  At  mid-day  I 
reached  a  bungalow  where  I  did  the  amiable  to  some  of  Mrs. 

S 's  nice  viands  she  kindly  prepared  on  my  leaving  Pesh- 

awur.  At  eleven  this  evening  my  bearers  deposited  me  in  front 
of  the  dak  bungalow  at  this  place,  where  I  have  been  waiting 
in  a  most  unamiable  humor  for  an  hour,  expecting  other  bearers 
and  as  they  don't  appear  to  be  coming,  I  shall  have  my  dhooly 
and  self  moved  to  the  Chokree  ofiice. 

About  twenty  miles  south  of  this,  the  battle  of  Chillianwallah 
was  fought  during  the  last  Sikh  campaign  in  '49,  the  battle  in 
which  Lord  Gough  was  defeated  by  the  native  or  Sikh  forces, 
only  the  latter  were  not  aware  of  their  success,  and  consequently, 
not  taking  advantage  of  it,  the  English  army  was  saved. 

Feh.  6ih,  Monday,  GooJER.iNWALLAH. — After  a  long  delay  I 
succeeded  in  getting  my  Coolies,  and  crossed  the  river  Jhelum 
(the  ancient  Hydaspes),  the  same  I  sailed  on  in  Cashmere.  This 
is  a  large  river,  and  the  only  one  of  all  that  intersects  the  Pun- 
jaub,  that  is  navigable  with  safety  to  its  mouth.  It  joins  the 
Indus  about  fifty  miles  north  of  Moultan.  The  bridge  of  boats 
having  been  carried  away  by  the  rains,  I  went  over  in  a  large 
ferry  boat  at  one  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

Eeaching  Goojrat  at  twelve  to-day,  I  stopped  to  see  the  Assist- 
ant Commissioner  C who  had  lately  forwarded  my  servant, 


444  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

and  lie  gave  me  a  "  feed "  and  horse  on  my  way  to  Cashmere. 
Then  on  a  few  miles  further  to  Woozerabad,  where  I  had  a  pros- 
pect of  spending  the  night  at  the  gate  of  the  city,  for  the  old 
villain  of  a  cutwal  would  not  give  me  Coolies.  I  then  tried  my 
luck  with  the  bungalow  kitmagar,  and  he  would  not  do  anything 
until  I  throttled  him,  and  gave  him  a  good  shaking,  and  a  promise 
of  backsheesh  if  he  got  them  quickly. 

Four  miles  from  the  city  is  a  cantonment  and  European  regi- 
ment, but  no  Europeans  reside  at  or  in  the  town.  I  found  the 
bridge  over  the  Chenaub  also  carried  away,  and  was  ferried 
across  in  the  rain.  This  is  one  of  the  worst  rivers  in  the  Pun- 
jaub  to  cross,  sometimes  occupying  eight  hours. 

Feb.  1th. — Got  back  here  at  half-past  twelve.     I  found  F 


sick,  and  also  his  Cousin  A ,  of  the  Artillery,  who  is  stay- 
ing with  him.     W was  just  finishing  breakfast,     I  was 

most  happy  to  lend  a  helping  hand  at  the  meal,  and  I  have  been 

keeping  company  with  F and  A ,  in  the  house 

all  day.      They  have  had  a  number  of  balls  and  all  sorts  of 

gaieties  since  I  left  for  Cashmere.     M ,  the  staid  Secretary 

of  the  Chief  Commissioner,  having  indulged  in  quite  a  magnifi- 
cent affair. 

Feb.  8ih. — Drove  out  this  morning.    This  afternoon  took  a  long 

walk  among  the  old  ruins  of  the  place.     A 's  leave  having 

expired,  he  has  returned  to  his  regiment.  I  have  just  received 
an  invitation  from  M to  dine  with  him  to-morrow.  To- 
night I  have  dined  alone,  except  F keeping  me  company 

in  the  room,  for  he  is  sitting  by  the  fire  still  sick,  and  W 

dining  at  one  of  the  regimental  messes. 

Feb.  9th. — A  long  walk  this  morning  to  the  race-course  and 
other  places :  met  two  or  three  acquaintances,  and  saw  one  horse 
taking  his  gallop.  After  breakfast  I  drove  to  the  Botanical 
Gardens  and  took  a  sketch  of  Lahore  and  the  old  Palace.     Then 


Sketched  by  the  Author. 

MOivUMENT  TO  BUCEPHALUS,  PUNJAUB. 


See  page  443. 


SIKH  SWORDS.  445 

drove  past  the  Palace,  which  is  mostly  built  of  browu  stone, 
though  with  some  marble,  stucco,  and  a  quantity  of  mosaic  in 
colored  tiles,  the  effect  of  which  is  both  curious  and  pleasing  in 
an  Eastern  country,  but  would  be  shocking  anywhere  else.     The 

colors  are  blue,  red,  and  yellow.     This  evening  to  M 's.   I 

met  a  very  pleasant  party  of  gentlemen,  all  civilians,  with  the 
exception  of  Captain  R . 

Feh.  10th. — This  morning  wet  and  drizzling,  but  I  was  off 
walking,  and  on  my  return  examined  some  Sikh  swords  that 
had  been  brought  for  my  inspection — but  I  saw  none  worth  buy- 
ing. They,  as  a  general  rule,  are  curved  like  the  Turkish  sabres, 
and  with  an  absurdly  small  handle,  the  blades  are  very  heavy ; 
the  best  ones  are  very  thick  until  just  before  reaching  the  edge, 
when  they  are  ground  down  very  suddenly.  The  good  ones  are 
the  best  of  steel.  During  the  war  an  officer  had  a  personal 
encounter  with  a  Sikh,  who  struck  a  blow  with  his  sword  at  the 
blade  of  the  other — it  slipped  and  struck  the  steel  guard,  cutting 
a  gash  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  without  turning  the  edge,  as  was 
afterwards  discovered. 

All  the  swords  that  were  given  up  have  been  examined  and 
re-examined,  and  those  worth  anything  were  bought  up. 

I  then  drove  to  see  the  American  missionaries,  only  one  being 
at  home,  the  other  having  gone  to  Rawul-Pindee  to  establish  a 
school.  The  Government  having  given  them  an  allowance  of  180 
rupees  ($90)  a  month,  and  a  house  for  the  purpose,  and  permission 
to  several  of  the  soldiers  in  the  Queen's  regiments  stationed  there 
to  teach  a  certain  number  of  hours  in  the  schools,  under  the 
mission,  and  they  expect  large  contributions  from  the  officers  in 
that  place.  The  people  here  are  very  liberal,  all  giving  from  5 
to  100  rupees  ($2  50  to  $50)  per  mo7it\  the  last  sum  being 
given  anonymously. 

The  missionary  establishment  here  consists  of  two  missionaries, 
who  have  been  here  since  '49.  They  have  met  with  great  success, 
having  three  schools ;  in  the  largest  one  they  teach,  and  have  250 


446  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

scholars — the  two  others  are  taught  by  natives,  but  under  their 
superintendence.     The  scholars  are  mostly  Hindoos,  they  being 

less  bigoted  than  the  Mussulmauns.     F says  he  often  sees 

one  of  the  missionaries  preaching  in  the  streets  of  the  city.  Like 
all  the  other  American  missionaries  in  this  country,  they  are 
very  hard  workers. 

Botli  of  these  missionaries  are  from  Orange  County,  New 
York,  and  sent  out  by  the  General  Presbyterian  Assembly.  He 
seemed  very  glad  to  see  a  countryman,  and  says  I  am  the  only 
American,  except  missionaries,  he  has  ever  seen  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  and  the  only  American  who  has  ever  been  in  Cashmere. 
I  asked  him  if  he  had  ever  heard  of  a  Dr.  Harlan,  from  Philadel- 
phia, whom  I  recollect  seeing  in  New  York,  when  a  child,  and 
hearing  he  had  been  opposing  the  English  at  the  court  of  some 
Eastern  sovereigns,  m  some  part  of  the  East  or  in  India. 

He  said,  yes — that  Sir  Henry  Lawrence,  late  Commissioner  in 
the  Punjaub,  gave  Mr.  Forman  (his  associate  missionary)  his 
history,  which  was,  that,  coming  out  to  Burmah  as  apothecary  on 
board  a  ship  in  '25,  at  the  time  of  the  first  Burmese  campaign, 
when,  owing  to  the  cholera,  there  was  a  great  demand  for  surgeons 
for  the  sick,  he  got  employment  from  the  East  India  Government. 
The  war  terminating,  they  had  no  further  occasion  for  the  services 
of  these  extra  assistants,  and  Harlan  was  paid  off  with  the  rest. 
He  was  much  annoyed  at  it,  and  having  learned  Hindostanee 
while  in  Burmah,  he  wandered  up  country,  and  found  employ- 
ment under  Runjeet  Singh,  who  was  then  in  the  height  of  his 
prosperit}^,  he  remained  there  from  about  '27  to  '35  or  '36,  having 
risen  step  by  step  until  he  was  Governor  of  Goojrat. 

Runjeet  Singh  was  opposed  to  capital  punishment,  except  in 
rare  cases,  but  contented  himself  by  maiming,  cutting  off  noses, 
hands,  arms,  ears,  etc. ;  Harlan  attempted  the  same,  but  to  such 
an  extent  that  Runjeet  Singh  and  he  quarrelled,  and  Harlan  left; 
but  he  took  good  care  to  have  all  his  money  out  of  the  country 
before  his  iinal  outbreak  with  Runjeet  Singh.  He  then  went  to 
Dost  Mahommed  at  Caubul,  where  he  got  employment  under  him. 


ICE   BY  ARTIFICIAL  MEANS.  447 

and  rose  high  in  confidence  and  command,  being  a  clever  man, 
with  fine  appearance. 

At  last  the  war  broke  out  with  England,  and  Dost  Mahommed 
supposing  him  to  be  an  Englishman,  was  distrustfid  of  him, 
especially  as  he  asked  for  command  in  the  army.  So  he  dis- 
missed him,  and  gave  the  command  to  his  son  Ackbar  Khan. 
But  even  to  the  last,  Harlan  gave  them  good  advice,  and  tried  to 
pursuade  them  to  fortify  the  Bolan,  and  other  passes,  when  they 
would  have  cut  the  English  completely  ofi",  instead  of  their  reach- 
ing Cabul  as  they  did,  for  they  supposing  him  to  be  acting  false, 
did  the  reverse  of  everything  he  advised. 

He  then  returned  to  the  Punjaub,  and  stopped  a  short  time  at 
the  house  of  Sir  Henry  Lawrence.  While  there,  one  of  the 
servants  stole  100  rupees  from  him.  He  told  Sir  Henry  Lawrence, 
but  he  not  knowing  how  to  get  it,  told  Harlan  so.  Harlan  then 
asked  permission  to  be  allowed  his  own  way.  So  Sir  Henry  said 
"yes,"  only  he  was  not  to  injure  any  of  the  servants.  Harlan 
had  all  the  servants  in  the  house  called  to  his  room,  when  he  let 
them  see  him  lock  the  door;  then  drawing  his  sword,  and  looking 
as  fierce  as  he  could,  which  "  was  some,"  told  them  he  would  cut 
the  head  off  of  every  man  in  the  room  if  the  thief  did  not  con- 
fess and  restore  the  money.  The  fellows  knowing  Harlan's  repu- 
tation, got  in  an  awful  fright,  and  the  guilty  man  confessed. 

F has  just  been  telling  me  how  successful  they  have 

been  collecting  ice  this  winter  since  I  have  been  away.  Not 
having  weather  cold  enough  to  freeze  ponds,  they  obtain  it  by 
artificial  means.  An  immense  quantity  of  small  holes  are  dug  with 
a  hoe,  over  which  straw  is  laid;  then  on  these,  thousands  of  flat 
earthen  chatties  are  set.  The  night  before  they  expect  a  frost, 
they  put  in  them  about  an  inch  or  inch  and  a  half  of  water,  and 
arranged  in  this  way  it  will  freeze  at  33°  and  34°.  At  daylight 
the  next  morning,  hundreds  of  men,  women  and  children  are  at 
work  picking  out  the  ice,  which  is  hurried  into  the  ice-house,  and 
there  packed  down  hard.  Sometimes  of  a  morning,  they  have 
in  this  way  obtained  from  four  to  eight  tons,  and  so  far,  in  about 


448  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE, 

sixty  days  since  I  left,  they  have  collected  320  tons  !  This  allows 
them  two  pounds  a  day  or  a  share  (of  $2  50  contribution  a  season,) 
per  day,  for  four  months.  But  F and  W are  luxu- 
rious, and  have  sixteen  shares  or  82  pounds  a  day  during  that 
period.  This  expense  of  $2  60  a  share  covers  all  charges,  of  pans  (of 
which  they  used  great  numbers  this  last  year,  ordering  1,000,000, 
as  many  get  broken  in  picking  the  ice  out),  ice-house  expenses, 
eight  water-carriers  to  fill  the  pans,  and  200  men,  women,  and 
children  who  are  out  before  daylight  collecting  the  ice. 

As  F still  continues  sick,  and  cannot  find  any  friend  who 

is  going  "pig-sticking,"  I  must  give  up  the  sport  for  the  present. 

Feb.  Hill. — To-day  I  bought  a  specimen  of  Lahore  silk  which 

is  considered  curious.     Then  drove  F to  his  cutcherry, 

and  went  in  to  see  how  they  managed  matters,  but  nothing  of 
any  importance  came  up.  The  magistrate  is  judge,  counsel,  and 
jury.  He  takes  his  instructions  and  law,  from  a  sort  of  "revised 
statutes,"  a  ponderous  volume — a  law  library  in  itself. 

The  early  age  at  which  civilians  and  military  men  receive 
appointments  in  India,  and  the  varied  requisitions  in  service  of  all 
kinds,  many  of  which  are  of  high  responsibility,  and  all  requiring 
prompt  and  decisive  action,  call  forth  their  energies  and  talents 
at  an  unusually  early  age,  and  produce  a  precociousness  not 
seen  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  A  man  at  thiry-five  may 
have  arrived  at  almost  the  highest  power  and  ofl&ce  in  the  country, 
and  with  more  natural  abilities  than  most  men  in  active  public 
life  in  other  parts  of  the  world  who  are  ten  or  fifteen  years  his 
senior. 

Generally  the  civilians,  almost  as  soon  as  appointed,  which  is 
from  eighteen  to  twenty,  are  sent  into  districts  where  they  are 
constantly  obliged  to  act  on  their  own  judgment.  They  are 
called  upon  continually  to  settle  disputes  between  natives  more 
or  less  high  in  power  and  position,  quell  disturbances,  make 
treaties,  and  dispense  justice. 

The  military  are  often  sent  on  separate  commands,  on  cxpedi- 


SALARIES  OF  CIVILIANS.  449 

tions  to  quell  riots  or  insurrections,  convey  treasure,  and  if  in  an 
irregular  regiment,  where  there  are  very  few  European  officers  to 
the  entire  regiment,  a  very  young  officer  may  have  the  full 
command  devolve  upon  him,  as  was  the  case  with  a  friend  of 
mine  who  was  only  about  twenty-two,  and  yet  was  the  third 
officer  in  his  regiment. 

W and  F both  act  as  judges  except  in  criminal 

cases  involving  capital  punishment.  In  those  they  act  as  com- 
missioners to  collect  evidence.  They  also  act  as  collectors  of 
taxes,  superintendents  of  roads,  prisons,  and  public  improvements 
generally.  According  to  the  performance  of  their  work  and 
evidence  of  ability,  they  are  usually  promoted,  influence 
acting  here  as  in  other  places. 

W has  been  in  the  country  nine  years,  and  is  rather 

high  up,  being  clever  and  attentive  to  liis  duties.     He  receives 

$6000  per  annum.     F has  been  here  seven  years  and 

receives  $4,200 — in  another  year  he  will  be  where  W has 

been  f  ^r  a  year  past,  and  will  then  receive  his  $6000.  Both  after 
they  have  served  ten  years,  will  receive  nearly  double  that  sum, 
and  after  fifteen  a  proportional  increase  and  so  on.  These  are 
very  common  instances  of  the  way  in  which  civilians  are  paid 
here. 

F says  one  of  the  most  common  causes  of  difficulty  is 

the  dower  or  difficulties  arising  from  marriages  contracted  for 
children  by  their  parents,  to  which  I  have  before  alluded,  and 
now  they  are  just  inducing  the  people  (instead  of  bringing  suits 
as  at  present,  to  obtain  an  order  compelling  the  parent  to  furnish 
another  daughter  in  lieu  of  the  one  who  has  died,  or  to  accept 
another  son  in  lieu  of  the  one  who  has  died,  which  they  have 
no  power  to  grant,)  to  bring  a  suit  for  damages  to  recover  the 
value  of  the  presents  or  dower  advanced  by  the  family  of  the  boy. 

It  is  astonishing  the  manner  in  which  this  once  turbulent  Sikh 
country  has  settled  down  into  such  a  quiet,  industrious  district, 
rarely  any  riot  or  disturbance,  where  only  four  or  five  years  ago,, 
the  country  was  scoured  by  armed  bands,  and  every  man  went 

29 


450  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

armed,  and  war  the  sole  purpose  of  their  existence.  After  the 
war,  the  government  offered  a  certain  sum  for  all  arms  brought 
in  to  different  points,  during  which  time  immense  numbers  were 
received,  Now  there  are  a  large  number  of  canals  for  artificially 
irrigating  the  country,  roads  are  being  made,  taxes  reduced,  and 
in  every  possible  form  civilization  is  advanced. 

The  English  have  done  more  to  advance  the  Punjaub  by  their 
judicious  management,  and  freedom  from  the  restraint  of  old 
customs  (which  it  takes  the  English  an  interminable  time  to 
work  free  from)  than  has  been  done  in  any  other  part  of  the 
country,  in  four  times  the  period.  The  whole  force  emploj^ed 
has  been  14,000  police,  who  are  mostly  Sikhs,  and  that  in  a  coun- 
try where  five  years  ago,  40,000  men  were  under  arms,  and  Lord 
Gough,  with  from  25,000  to  30,000,  nearly  thoroughly  defeated 
several  times,  and  four  very  severe  battles  fought  before  the  Sikhs 
were  put  down. 

The  last,  or  Punjaub  war,  commenced  in  this  way  : — Moolraj, 
the  Governor  of  Mooltan,  wished  to  resign  ;  he  had  made  a  mint 
of  money  by  the  artificial  irrigation  from  canals  at  Mooltan, 
besides  enriching  the  country.  But  the  people  would  not  let 
iiim  resign.  He  informed  the  Resident,  that  if  he  would  send 
some  one  to  take  his  place,  he  would  resign  the  power,  and 
requested  that  it  should  not  be  mentioned.  It  was  spoken  of, 
and  reached  the  ears  of  the  Sikhs  at  Mooltan. 

When  Lieutenant  Ao;new  and  another  were  sent  down  with  a 
company  of  native  troops  to  take  charge,  they  encamped  half  a 
mile  from  the  city,  and  went  in  with  a  few  soldiers  to  see  the 
Governor,  returning  through  the  town  to  the  camp.  The  natives 
creating  a  riot,  these  two  officers  were  murdered  before  they 
reached  their  camp,  and  the  soldiers  joined  the  Sikhs. 

A  Sikh  general  then  started  for  the  northern  part  of  the 
Punjaub  to  collect  troops,  and  get  an  army  together,  while 
Moolraj 's  son  fortified  the  city.  This  was  besieged,  and  after  a 
while  taken,  and  several  desperate  battles  fought,  finishing  with 
the  one  at  Goojrat.     Before  this  war  there  had  been  a  regency ; 


THE  SHADRA  GARDENS.  451 

after  it  tlie  English  took  possession,  as  a  country  fairly  gained 
by  conquest  twice — forbearance  now  ceasing  to  be  a  virtue. 

Feb.  12th. — This  morning  to  church :  this  afternoon  at  home. 
W has  gone  to  the  Shadra  Garden,  to  arrange  for  a  "  pic- 
nic "  to-morrow,  and  F despairing  of  getting  well  on  the 

doctor's  hands,  has  tried  a  remedy  of  his  own — a  gallop  of  ten 
miles  out  of  town,  to  look  up  new  ground  for  a  "pig-sticking" 
expedition,  and  one  for  a  jackal  hunt,  as  soon  as  he  gets  well. 

Feb.  13th. — I  received  an  invitation  from  Mr.  M ,  one 

of  the  Chief  Commissioners,  for  dinner  on  Thursday,  which  I 
had  to  decline,  as  I  leave  to-night.     At  noon  I  drove  an  officer 

friend  of  F 's  to  the  Shadra  Gardens,  and  tomb  of  Jehan- 

Ghir  and  Noor-Mahal,  as  Mr.  Thomasson  (the  late  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  the  North-west  Provinces)  a  distinguished  oriental 
scholar,  has  ascertained  by  an  inscription  on  the  tomb.  The  Taj 
at  Agra  is  generally  supposed  to  be  her  burial-place.  On  the 
ground  we  found  about  forty  gentlemen  and  ladies,  two  or  three 
of  the  latter  very  pretty.  Had  I  been  an  officer  here,  I  should 
have  lost  my  heart  to  one  of  them.  The  day  was  passed  very 
pleasantly  with  games,  dancing,  etc. ;  one  of  the  games,  archery^ 
had  very  pretty  prizes.  Then  a  capital  tiffin  under  large 
awnings,  a  lovely  spot  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  with  fine 
trees,  and  the  beautiful  tomb,  surrounded  by  a  portico,  thus 
making  a  delightful  promenade.  The  regimental  band  furnish- 
ing the  various  music. 

After  sunset  we  descended  the  river  in  a  large  row-boat,  the 
band  followed  in  another  playing.  In  passing  one  spot,  there  were 
three  echoes  to  the  music,  and  a  full  moon  contributed  her  poetic 
charms  to  the  loveliness  of  the  scene.  On  the  way  home,  in  a 
lady's  carriage,  she  gave  me  an  invitation  to  her  sister's  wedding, 
for  Thursday,  which  I  had  to  decline,  and  at  ten  this  evening  I 
shall  be  off  for  Delhi.* 

*  Poor  W  ,  during  the  recent  mutiny,  he  was  found  one  morning 


452  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Feb.  14iA,  EiVER  Beas. — I  started  last  evening  at  ten,  and 
reached  Umritzur  this  morning  at  half-past  nine.  While  break- 
fast was  preparing,  I  sallied  out,  and  took  another  look  at  the 
town  and  beautiful  tank.  During  the  wars  between  the  Sikhs 
and  Afghans,  when  the  Afghans  conquered,  they  would  destroy 
the  tank  and  temple,  killing  cows  in  the  tank.  The  Sikhs  would 
purify  it,  and  then  the  Afghans  destroy  it  again.  During 
Runjeet  Singh's  time  it  was  much  decorated;  many  of  the  decora- 
tions mosaics,  and  fine  marbles  were  taken  from  the  beautiful 
tomb  of  Jehan-Ghir,  and  Noor-Mahal,  at  Lahore — the  old 
villain ! 

I  made  another  rough  sketch  of  it  and  back,  looking  at  the 
many  shawl  manufacturers'  shops,  then  breakfasted,  and  off.  At 
this  station  there  are  some  troops,  and  a  few  civilians.  This  after- 
noon I  passed  Jelindur — a  pleasant  little  station,  with  bungalows 
and  church.     At  dusk  was  ferried  over  this  river. 

Feb.  loth,  en  route  to  Umballa. — This  morning  crossed  the 
Sutlej  again,  and  entered  Loodiana.  I  am  retracing  the  steps 
which  I  took  coming  northward  in  November ;  now  the  fields 
are  mostly  covered  with  luxuriant  half-grown  grain  and  grass. 
To-day  passed  the  tents  of  some  soldiers ;  I  was  in  hopes  they 

were  those  of  the  82d  (Queen's),  Colonel  B 's  regiment, 

but  they  had  turned  off  to  the  hills  a  day  or  two  since. 

Feb.  16th,  Umballa. — Here  this  afternoon  at  one.  I  find  the 
roads  much  improved  since  I  went  up  three  months  ago.  The 
telegraph  wire  now  runs  all  the  distance  to  Umritzur.  From 
Eawul-Pindee  they  intend  laying  the  telegraph  twenty  feet  under 
ground,  to  prevent  the  natives  from  destroying  it.  The  roads 
from  Calcutta  to  Peshawur  are  (with  two  or  three  exceptions)  on 
the  banks  of  rivers,  on  a  perfect  level. 

lying  on  the  road  murdered.     Of  F I  can  learn  nothing,  but  hope  he  is 

safe.     During  the  mutinies  I  lost  some  twenty  or  thirty  intimate  friends  and 
acquaintances. 


RAIN,    RAIN.  453 

The  Ganges  valley  extends  nearly  to  the  extreme  North-west, 
— probably  the  largest  continued  valley  in  the  world.  The 
road  is  nearly  all  graded  ;  in  a  year  it  will  probably  be  laid  with 
kunka.  It  is  said  that  the  grading  is  with  an  eye  to  the  pros- 
pective railroad  now  being  commenced  at  Calcutta,  and  in  the 
meanwhile,  waggons  and  transit  coaches  will  settle  it.  From 
here  I  go  to  Seharanpoor,  where  I  hope  to  be  early  to-morrow 
morning. 

Feb.  17th,  Dak  Bungalow,  Seharanpoor. — I  started  yes- 
terday afternoon  for  this  place.  Shortly  after  dark  it  com- 
menced raining.  Thinking  it  would  not  last  long,  I  continued 
on ;  but  after  an  hour  finding  it  rather  increased,  and  no  chance 
of  any  asylum,  perhaps  before  this  place  to-morrow  morning, 
and  the  roads  becoming  very  slippery  I  called  a  halt,  and  got  out 
of  my  carpet  bags  the  comeatable  Cashmere  articles,  and  put  them 
in  the  dhooly.  Getting  my  shawls,  scarfs,  and  rifle,  etc.,  out  of 
their  corner  and  in  bottom  of  the  dhooly  into  a  better  protected 
place  ;  I  prepared  for  a  soaking  of  the  carpet  bags  and  upset  of 
the  dhooly.  Luckily,  however,  there  was  not  much  rain,  and  I 
only  had  one  drop.  The  forward  men  slipping  and  spilling  the 
dhooly  in  the  soft  mud.  Presently  to  my  great  delight  the 
bearers  announced  a  dak  bungalow  at  three  this  morning.  They 
inquired  if  they  should  stop,  I  said  "  Yes,  by  all  means,"  and  I 
was  soon  in  dry  quarters ;  the  dhooly  unpacked,  and  the  kit- 
magar  (charming  creatures  these  Indian  servants,  always  turning 
in  to  "  roost"  with  their  clothes  all  on,  and  thus  ready  at  a 
moment's  notice),  bustling  about,  soon  made  me  comfortable. 

Luckily  I  found  that  but  a  very  small  portion  of  my  clothes 
were  wet,  and  those  in  a  glazed  leather  bag  !  while  those  in  the 
French  carpet  bag  were  perfectly  dry.  At  four  this  morning  I 
shall  turn  into  bed.  To-day  still  raining,  so  ordered  a  fire,  and 
shall  "make  a  day  of  it"  here.  The  same  charming  kitmagar 
providing  me  with  tea,  "  moorghi  grill"  and  chepatties  (thin 
dough  cakes),  in  the  place  of  bread.     I  should  have  been  very 


454:  FEOM   WALL   STREET   TO   CASHMERE. 

comfortable,  but  for  a  liorrid  cliimney  that  would  smoke,  and 
nearly  convert  me  into  bacon. 

In  the  afternoon,  clearing  up,  at  half-past  three  I  started  for 
this  place,  which  by  dint  of  a  strong  set  of  bearers,  plenty  of 
urging,  quizzing,  and  promise  of  backsheesh,  I  reached  by  half- 
past  ten  this  evening,  trembling  every  moment  for  fear  of 
another  rain. 

During  the  afternoon  I  passed  numerous  cactus  hedges  with 
yellow  leaves,  which,  looking  fresh  after  the  rain,  had  all  the 
appearance  of  flowers,  and  for  a  mile  passed  through  a  most  beau- 
tiful grove  of  mango  trees,  many  of  them  quite  patriarchal  in 
appearance.  I  crossed  the  Jumna  an  hour  before  dark,  and 
passed  a  small  village  preceded  by  a  large  garden.  Almost  every 
town  in  the  East  of  any  size,  has  a  large  garden  or  resort  of  some 
kind,  where  we  can  find  water,  trees,  and  flowers.  Reaching  the 
bungalow,  I  found  it  exceedingly  comfortable,  had  the  luxury  of 
a  cup  of  tea,  and  now  to  bed. 

Feh.  18ih. — This  morning  I  sent  a  note  with  F 's  letter 

of  introduction  to  Mr.  E ,  the  Magistrate,  who  sent  a  note 

and  his  buggy  for  me  to  come  and  take  possession  of  a  room  in 
his  house,  as  he  would  be  most  happy  to  see  any  friend  of 
F 's. 

We  have  been  talking  over  plans  of  routes  to  Roorkee,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  great  Ganges  canal,  and  where  are  many  of  the 
workshops,  and  the  most  celebrated  engineering  on  the  canal,  also 
of  a  visit  to  Hurdwar — the  most  sacred  Hindoo  place  in  India,  not 
even  excepting  Benares  !  I 

You  can't  imagine  how  happy  I  feel  to  think  that  four  hundred 
miles  more  of  my  journey  are  "  trundled  off."  I  expected  to  have 
been  at  Delhi  by  to-morrow ;  but  now  I  shall  not  reach  there  for 
several  days;  meantime  "Butler  Sahib"  is  enjoying  his  "otium 
cum  dignitate  "  with  the  "  bubble  bubble  "  to  solace  his  loneli- 
ness at  the  Dak  bungalow. 

E had  an  engagement  with  some  young  ladies  and  an 


I''..„a.;-!!i: 


WORKS   ON  THE   GANGES   CANAL.  455 

ofificcr  friend  of  his,  for  a  ride  this  afternoon.  He  gave  me  a 
*'  mount,"  and  we  had  a  charming  gallop,  the  ladies  young,  pretty, 
agreeable,  and  quite  celebrated  for  their  beautiful  riding.  Going 
to  the  house  of  the  young  ladies,  we  met  a  Mr.  Campbell,  a  well- 
known  American  missionary,  whom  I  had  heard  spoken  of  in  the 

highest  terms.     E introduced  me  to  him,  and  said  I  was 

a  countryman.     Mr.  C is  a  most  respectable  looking  old 

gentleman.  I  inquired  about  his  mission,  etc.  He  said  it  was 
very  flourishing,  and  that  he  had  been  established  here  for 
eighteen  years.* 

This   evening   E took  me  to  a  dinner-party  at  Dr. 

J 's.  to  which  he  had  got  me  an  invitation.     It  was  given 

for  a  bride.    Dr.  J inquired  if  I  knew  A.  Y.  E.,  of  Albany ; 

that  they  had  been  class-mates  at  Edinburgh.  This  evening  I 
shall  start  for  Eoorkee.  This  place  is  not  large,  but  pretty,  with 
a  pleasant  little  society. 

Feb.  19tJi,  Eoorkee. — •!  started  at  twelve  last  night,  and  reached 
this  place  at  half-past  seven  this  morning.     I  found  the  officer, 

Mr.  P ,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter,  a  fine  fellow.     At  breakfast 

we  had  an  amusing  diversion — a  rat-chase  around  the  room. 

After  breakfast  a  Mr.  L ,  an  engineer  on  the  canal,  to 

whom  I  had  letters,  came  in.  He  arranged  to  take  me  up  to  his 
house  in  the  morning. 

This  afternoon  P took  me  to  see  the  works  on  the  canal. 

In  this  part  there  is  a  bridge  about  a  thousand  feet  long,  sup- 
ported by  arches,  and  between  the  piers  of  the  arches,  flows  a 
river — a  mountain  torrent. 

The  entire  embankment  in  this  part  of  the  canal  is  about  three 
miles  long,  and  the  whole  bed  is  carried  by  this  work  on  arches 
for  one  thousand  feet,  eighteen  feet  above  the  valley  or  bed  of  the 
torrent.  The  general  width  of  the  canal  is  150  feet ;  but  this 
bridge  or  viaduct  over  the  Eutmoo  river  is  280.     The  length  of 

*  I  understand,  during  the  revolt,  the  poor  old  gentleman  was  murdered  by 
the  Sepoys. 


456  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

the  canal  is  370  miles,  but  with  the  tributary  canals  which  flow 
out  and  into  it  again,  a  network  of  waters  on  both  sides  to  irrigate 
the  country,  is  950  miles. 

The  bed  is  nine  or  ten  feet  deep.  It  has  been  fourteen  years  in 
building,  and  at  a  cost  of  £1,500,000  or  $7,500,000,  They  are 
making  great  efforts  to  finish  and  open  it  the  13th  of  April,  when 
the  waters  will  be  let  in.  Though  the  natives  feel  so  confident 
they  declare  Gunga  will  not  desert  his  ancient  bed  and  flow 
into  this  new  one. 

The  object  being  to  irrigate  the  land,  the  ridges  have  been 
selected  for  the  course  of  the  canal  from  its  mouth  at  Hurdwar, 
to  where  it  empties  into  the  Ganges  again  at  Cawnpore.  Now 
the  Ganges  runs  into  such  a  valley,  that  it  drains,  instead  of  irri- 
gating the  upland. 

On  the  twenty  miles  between  this  and  Hurdwar  they  have 
30,000  men  at  work.  When  the  canal  is  completed  the  entire 
body  of  the  river  will  flow  into  it.  The  descent  is  fifteen  inches 
per  mile,  and  every  four  or  five  miles,  a  descent  of  five  feet. 

This  afternoon  a  walk  around  the  place,  passing  the  college  for 
half-castes  and  natives,  who  are  paid  from  seven  to  ten  rupees  per 
nnonth  for  attending ! ! !  This  place  is  prettily  situated,  with  the 
snow  mountains  full  in  sight,  and  an  undulating  country  around. 

Feb.  20lh,  PuTTREE. — At  six  I  left  my  "  traps  "  in  charge  of  a 
servant  to  be  sent  with  the  dhooly  after  me,  and  having  bid 
P good-bye  last  night,  and  received  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion from  him  to  Colonel  Cautley,  the  Chief  Engineer,  not  only 

of  this,  but  of  all  India,  I  started  with  L for  his  place, 

Denowree,  in  a  buggy.  I  stopped  just  before  reaching  here,  to  see 
the  works  where  in  the  dry  season  they  run  a  river  under  a 
bridge,  and  a  hundred  yards  further  on  where  they  open  the  gates 
both  sides  of  the  canal  and  run  it  over,  together  with  the  waters 
of  the  canal  when  they  get  too  high. 

The  works  are  very  massive,  but  not  what  I  had  supposed 
from  the  report  of  them.     The  piers  and  walls  are  supported  by 


IIURDWAR.  457 

square  tubes  of  brick,  sunk  into  the  ground  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet,  and  sometimes  the  square  tube  divided  into  four  parts  by 
interior  walls — the  whole  filled  with  earth.  They  are  sunk  by 
the  earth  being  excavated  by  suspended  shovels  in  the  inside  of 
the  tubes.     A  curious  operation,  and  borrowed  from  the  natives. 

I  breakfasted  with  L .     While  wandering  about  I  saw 

a  beastie  watering  an  elephant  by  pouring  water  into  his  trunk 

from  his  pig-skin  sack.     Then  L and  I  got  on  his  elephant 

and  came  to  this  place,  where  I  met  Colonel  Cautley  on  the  road. 
We  passed  over  a  famous  battle-field  of  the  Hindoos  and  Mus- 
sulmans, fought  when  the  latter  attempted  to  penetrate  to  the 
sacred  Hurdwar.  The  fight  lasted  three  days,  and  then  the  Mus- 
sulmans, though  victorious,  gave  up  their  design,  finding  it  cost 
too  great  a  sacrifice  of  life. 

Near  the  tent  was  a  fine  work  which  is  to  carry  a  famous 
mountain  torrent  over  the  canal.  To  prevent  it  being  diverted 
from  this  course,  the  country  for  a  mile  on  either  side  was  covered 
with  rows  of  embankments ;  for,  as  it  rushes  down  furiously  after 
a  rain,  and  takes  singular  courses,  sometimes  one  way,  sometimes 
another,  it  overflows  the  countrj^,  and  covers  it  with  a  sandy 
deposit. 

I  dined  with  Colonel  C who  sent  for  our  tents,  as  his 

other  tent  and  beds  had  been  sent  to  Denowree.   Colonel  C 

has  quite  a  European  reputation,  although  one  of  the  E.  I.  Com- 
pany's officers.  His  successor  is  a  Captain  Smith  whom  he  was 
ver}^  anxious  should  see  me,  as  he  has  just  returned  from  the 
United  States,  and  is  full  of  what  he  has  seen. 

Feb.  21st,  Denowree. — I  started  at  daylight  this  morning  with 

my  sketch  book,  on  one  of  Colonel  C 's  elephants  for  Hurdwar, 

the  greatest  of  all  Hindoo  pilgrimages.  Here  every  Hindoo  desires 
to  die.  I  met  great  numbers  of  pilgrims  on  the  road.  Of  those 
going,  many  had  bundles  on  their  back,  containing  the  ashes 
of  some  of  their  famil}^,  to  throw  in  the  Ganges  at  Hurdwar. 
Those  returning  with  baskets  or  bhangies  (poles  six  feet  long 


458  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

balanced  on  the  shoulder,  and  loads  suspended  at  either  end),  with 
packages  of  small  bottles  containing  Ganges  water  from  this  sacred 
place  for  their  families,  or  to  sell. 

My  stupid  mahout  took  me  past  the  bungalow,  where  the 
Colonel  had  sent  his  servant  before  daylight  on  another  elephant, 
with  all  the  arrangements  for  my  breakfast  and  tiffin,  and  carried 
me  two  miles  further  on  to  Hurdwar,  before  I  discovered  the  mis- 
take. Thus  making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  I  did  my  sight-seeing, 
and  sketching  first. 

The  mouth  of  the  canal  is  a  few  hundred  yards  below  the  city, 
and  as  I  have  said  before,  "  Gunga  will  be  turned  from  his  old 
bed  "  into  this  new  one,  in  spite  of  himself,  and  the  native  decla- 
rations to  the  contrary ;  and  when  they  see  the  effects  of  his 
irrigation  on  their  soil  when  the  rain  falls  short,  they  will  doubt- 
less tliink  it  an  evidence  of  his  pleasure  at  the  change  to  this 
magnificent  conduit,  which  "  John  Company  "  has  made  for  him. 

The  town  is  small  and  dirty.  It  is  situated  at  the  base  of  some 
low  hills,  with  pretty  position  and  views.  The  buildings  consist 
principally  of  the  temples  near  the  Ghauts,  and  a  few  ordinary 
houses  and  bazaars,  in  which  confectionery,  lacquered  ware, 
bracelets  of  betel  nut,  or  stone,  and  glass  bottles  forms  the  stock 
in  trade.  There  are  also  a  few  houses  of  rich  natives,  who  con- 
sider it  a  mark  of  2^osition  to  have  a  house  in  Hurdwar.  Many  of 
these  are  brick,  some  with  white  freestone  bases,  and  the  founda- 
tions of  many  laid  in  the  bed  of  the  sacred  stream. 

There  were  many  people  bathing  and  filling  bottles.  The 
river  is  narrow,  and  very  shoal  at  this  dry  season,  and  only  a  few 
hundreds  now,  where  there  are  thousands  who  visit  it  for  devo- 
tion or  profit  during  the  Fair. 

The  principal  Ghaut,  I  am  told,  was  built  by  the  East  India 
Compan}' .  It  is  large  and  commodious,  thus  saving  the  horrid 
waste  of  human  life,  occasioned  by  the  sudden  rush  of  the  devo- 
tees through  the  former  old  and  narrow  one,  to  reach  the  waters  at 
the  propitious  moment,  which  is  often  at  midnight.  The  hills  in 
the  rear  of  the  town  furnish  a  pleasant  refuge  for  tigers,  leopards 


ARRIVAL  AT  MEERUT.  459 

and  wolves,  who  follow  "  the  mode"  and  make  their  periodical 
visit  for  "  profit  and  devotion  "  too. 

The  Fairs  held  here,  are  attended  by  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  people — traders,  devotees,  and  mere  visitors,  coming  from 
every  quarter.  Horse  merchants  from  Bokhara  and  Cabul,  and 
pilgrims  from  Calcutta.  Every  twelfth  year  is  the  Great  Fair, 
called  the  "  Coons  " — then  it  is  estimated  the  people  amount  to 
near  a  million. 

I  rode  in  among  the  people  who  were  bathing,  and  filling  bot- 
tles, which  held  from  a  gill,  to  one  or  two  quarts.  Then  to  the 
bungalow  where  I  got  my  breakfast,  at  between  two  and  three  in 
the  afternoon.  It  is  needless  to  add,  I  did  justice  to  the  cuisine. 
I  then  came  on  to  this  place,  altogether  a  distance  of  twenty; 

six  miles,  on  my  dusky  charger.     Here  I  found  Colonel  C 

and  L .      After  dinner  I   shall  start  for    Meerut    and 

Delhi. 

Feb.  227icZ,  Meerut. — I  started  last  evening  at  eight,  and  had  a 
very  disagreeable,  drizzling  night.  I  only  stopped  on  the  road 
at  Mazufferanugger  for  breakfast,  and  then  on  to  this  place,  which 
I  reached  at  the  same  hour  that  I  started  from  it  on  my  Cashmerian 
tour,  twelve  weeks  and  four  days  ago ;  but  with  very  different 
feelings  from  what  I  now  have,  since  fifteen  or  sixteen  hundred 
miles  of  territory  have  been  traversed,  I  safely  back  again,  and 
so  much  nearer  home.  It  is  a  country  fraught  with  historic 
interest,  ancient  and  modern;  scenes  draped  and  encircled  in 
poetic  imagery  and  halo,  where  nature  has  lavished  many  of  her 
most  wondrous  charms  of  beauty  and  magnificence ;  while  de- 
scending to  the  more  practical,  I've  witnessed  the  extraordinary 
energy  and  good  management  of  this  far-extending  East  India 
Company,  which  has,  in  five  short  years,  subdued  and  almost 
civilized  the  warrior-born  race  who  inhabited  this  vast  district, 
now  dotted  by  European  settlements,  and  churches  with  mission- 
aries spreading  the  light  of  the  blessed  gospel. 

The  country  has  been  irrigated  and  enriched  by  a  network 


460  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

of  canals,  roads,  and  telegraphs.  The  people  have  been  tauo-ht 
the  advantages  of  peace,  law  and  order. 

Thus,  finishing  my  wanderings  with  the  sight  of  so  worthy  an 
achievement — of  so  grand  a  legislation — the  great  Ganges  canal, 
a  work  that  is  unsurpassed  for  skilful  engineering  and  magnitude — 
a  large  river  diverted  from  its  course,  and  in  one  place  the  whole 
current  carried  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile  on  arches  from  six  to  eighteen 
feet  above  the  bed  of  a  violent  mountain  torrent,  whose  waters 
are  here  collected  into  a  regular  current,  and  pass  beneath  the 
canal ;  in  another  place,  another  torrent  is  conducted  over  the  canal, 
and  in  a  third  place,  another  passes  through  the  canal ! 

I  feel  as  if  it  was  almost  a  beautiful  dream,  that  I  should  have 
seen  and  passed  through  so  much  in  this  short  time,  with  all  the 
inconveniences  and  disadvantages  a  traveller  labors  imder  in  a 
strange  land,  which,  though  on  the  certain  road  to  civilization  and 
prosperity,  is  in  many  parts  almost  savage  still. 

Immediately  on  my  arrival  I  sent  to  lay  a  dak  for  Delhi,  and 
shall  be  "en route"  again  at  eleven  this  evening.  My  dhooly, 
which  has  carried  me  safely  more  than  1700  miles,  with  grateful 
remembrance  of  its  services,  I  shall  leave  to  repose  on  its  laurels — 
unless  the  bungalow  kitmagar  should  turn  it  into  "  filthy  lucre." 

Feb.  23c/,  Delhi, — The  night  was  dark  and  stormy,  I 
managed  to  get  a  little  sleep,  by  dint  of  perseverance,  cushions, 
pillows,  and  coats,  notwithstanding  the  bad  springs.  This 
morning  I  was  woke  by  the  "  Sa-a-ib,  Sa-a-ib,"  of  my  driver. 
Looking  out  of  the  window,  I  found  we  had  reached  the  Jumna, 
which  had  to  be  crossed,  and  the  bridge  toll  to  be  paid.  My 
first  sight  was  the  palace  walls,  which  on  this  side  form  the  city 
walls.  They  are  some  sixty  feet  high.  The  appearance  of  the 
city  is  very  fine  for  a  native  town — clean  streets,  etc. 

Driving  to  the  dak  bungalow,  I  found  my  servant  and  things ; 
they  had  been  here  for  several  weeks.  A  note  from  Hall  stated, 
that  instead  of  going  into  Rajpootana,  as  he  had  proposed  for 
us  to  do,  he  on  government  business  and  I  for  pleasure,  had 


THE   DURBAR  HALL   AT  DELHI.  461 

been  to  Delhi,  got  engaged,  and  was  to  be  married  in  a  few 
weeks. 

Then  after  breakfast  I  went  to  present  my  letters  of  introduc- 
tion.    I  found  that  all  but  one  person  had  been  ordered  off. 

In  India,  officers  and  their  regiments  are  changed  every  three 
years,  on  account  of  the  climate ;  for  they  say,  that  even  a  bad 
change  is  better  than  none ;  so  that  taking  letters  to  a  station, 
with  an  interlude  of  three,  four,  or  five  months  after  they  are 
written,  is  a  very  uncertain  chance  of  pleasure. 

The  only  person  I  found  here  was  Mr.  Wilby,  the  editor  of 
the  Delhi  Gazette — a  very  nice  fellow — a  Nova  Scotian  by  birth, 
and  Harvard  man  by  education.  He  apologized  for  not  inviting 
me  to  his  house,  as  his  wife  was  sick,  but  offered  to  do  all  he 
could  in  the  way  of  showing  me  sights,  and  commenced  by 
sending  a  note  for  an  order  to  see  the  fort. 

It  is  a  very  large  place,  and  the  citadel  of  the  city.  There  are 
arrangements  in  it  for  troops — besides  the  palace  and  gardens.  I 
first  visited  the  celebrated  Durbar  Hall,  where  stood  the  famous 
"  Peacock  Throne,"  removed  by  Nadir  Shah.  The  place  is  a 
large  many-pillared  portico,  and  in  the  back  part,  against  the 
wall,  a  raised  platform,  about  six  feet  high,  with  marble  canopy. 
The  entire  structure  is  of  white  marble.  The  natives  have  white- 
washed the  portico,  which  was  of  red  sandstone,  to  make  it  cor- 
respond with  the  throne  !  Under  this  canopy  stood  the  Peacock 
Throne.  In  front,  but  only  about  a  foot  from  the  ground,  there 
is  a  marble  slab,  where  the  Grand  Vizier  sat,  and  received  peti- 
tions, which  were  presented  on  bended  knee. 

The  Vizier  presented  those  which  he  deemed  worthy  to  the 
Emperor,  who  sat  on  the  throne.  Bernier,  the  celebrated  French 
traveller  of  the  sixteenth  century,  made  his  way  across  India 
from  Surat  where  he  lauded,  and  presented  his  petition  in  this 
way,  and  finally  was  attached  to  the  Emperor  Arungzebe's  suite, 
and  gives  the  earliest  account  we  have  of  life  in  these  countries ; 
he  also  speaks  of  the  journeys  of  the  Emperor  into  Cash- 
mere. 


462  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Everything  about  the  throne  was  magnificent,  and  much  still 
remains.  The  canopy,  columns,  and  wall  back  of  the  throne, 
are  in  beautiful  Florentine  style  of  mosaic.  The  crowning  part 
of  the  mosaic  is  a  representation  of  a  man  playing  on  a  violin, 
which  has  much  puzzled  antiquarians. 

In  the  Palace  Hall,  as  it  is  termed,  is  a  pavilion,  on  the  walls 
of  which  I  saw  the  grandiloquent  writing  ;  "  And  oh !  if  there  be 
an  Elysium  on  earth,  it  is  here,  it  is  here."  Their  perfection  of 
happiness  must  have  been  easily  attained,  I  think.  The  build- 
ing never  could  have  been  very  handsome,  even  "  in  its  newest 
gloss  ;"  and  now  the  view  of  the  river  is  obstructed  by  a  modern 
wall.  Formerly  with  that  in  sight,  it  may  have  been  pretty, 
though  not  excessively  so  ;  but  as  native  happiness  deals  not  in 
the  beautiful,  but  sensual  tastes  and  appetites,  their  Elysium  is 
where  these  pleasures  are  to  be  found. 

The  building  is  square,  with  a  row  of  six  columns  on  each 
side,  connected  by  scolloped  arches,  and  another  inner  row  of 
four  columns.  In  the  centre  there  is  a  handsome  tessellated  floor. 
The  lower  part  of  the  columns  is  gaudy  gilding.  The  ceiling, 
which  it  is  said  was  formerly  covered  with  plates  of  silver,  is 
now  of  wood — gilt.  Thence  into  the  adjoining  garden,  from 
here  to  the  Jumma  Musjid,  or  Great  Mosque,  which  is  on  a 
lofty  terrace,  ascended  by  a  fine  flight  of  steps  from  the  prin- 
cipal street. 

It  presents  the  finest  appearance  of  any  mosque  I  have  seen  in 
India.  On  one  side  of  the  court  is  the  large  building,  on  the 
opposite  the  lofty  gateway,  and  this  mosque,  after  the  palace,  is 
the  grand  feature  of  Delhi. 

There  is  a  fine  view  from  this  point  of  one  of  the  city  gates, 
which  adds  so  much  to  the  grandeur  of  the  palace  walls.     Then 

to  W 's  ofiice,  and  his  house  to  dinner.     He  says  Lord 

Dalhovisie  has  proposed,  and  it  has  been  adopted,  to  repair  all  the 
buildings  and  monuments  in  and  about  Delhi,  and  after  the 
present  Emperor's  death  to  remove  the  imperial  family  from  the 
palace  to  some  other  place,  in  fact  adopting  Sir  Charles  Napier's 


SIR   CHARLES   NAPIER.  463 

proposed  plan  of  making  Delhi  the  head-quarters  of  the  army, 
and  renovating  the  ancient  capital. 

Sir  Charles  Napier  drew  a  rough  sketch  of  his  plan,  and  sent 
it  to  the  Governor-General,  who  sent  it  home  to  the  Court  of 
Directors,  who  sent  a  formal  note  to  Sir  Charles,  requesting 
the  Commander-in-Chief  to  put  his  views  in  a  more  intelligible 
form.  So  in  his  quizzical  way,  he  commenced  with  broad 
margin,  and  "  Article  first: — The  King  and  gunpowder  shall  be 
removed  from  Delhi.  Eeasons  :  If  the  King  is  not  removed  he 
will  blow  up  the  countr}'.  If  the  gunpowder  is  not  removed  it 
will  blow  up  the  King,"  etc.,  etc.  Though  the  Company  and 
Sir  Charles  Napier  could  not  agree,  for  with  his  enemies  at  work 
at  Calcutta  (and  every  great  man  will  have  them),  misrepre- 
senting him,  and  poisoning  the  ears  of  Government  in  every  way 
as  regarded  him,  and  he  was  wearing  himself  out  in  the 
Government  service,  adding  new  laurels  to  her  crown  of  empire, 
and  benefiting  her  in  every  way,  while  Lord  Dalhousie  with  his 
brief  power  was  lording  it  over  him  in  the  pettishness  of  his 
feelings,  Sir  Charles  had  a  hard  time  in  India. 

It  is  true  that  he  made  a  large  fortune  by  the  conquest  of 

Scinde ;  but did  he  receive  too  much  compensation  for  his 

brilliant  services  ?  and  did  not  Lord  Gough  receive  vastly  more 
for  what  he  did  not  do! — conquer  the  Punjaub,  which  was  only 
accomplished  through  the  obstinacy  and  valor  of  the  British 
army,  who  would  not  run  away  wh6n  Lord  Gough  allowed  them 
to  be  defeated,  and  by  the  ignorance  of  the  Sikhs  who  did  not 
know  when  they  had  gained  a  victory,  as  long  as  their  enemies 
did  not  run  away  ? 

Wherever  I  have  been  in  India  among  the  soldiers  who  saw 
and  knew  Sir  Charles  Napier,  they  really  loved  him,  and  as  they 
expressed  it,  "  we  all  swear  by  old  Charley."  He  was  the  most 
brilliant  soldier  they  have  ever  had  in  India,  with  the  sole 
exception  of  the  "  Duke,"  and  with  every  quality  to  render  him 
popular. 

Delhi,  surrounded  for  miles  with  old  tombs,  has  been  for  a 


464  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

thousand  years  moving  northward,  and  is  now  about  twenty-five 
miles  further  up  than  when  it  was  first  built.  Every  succeeding 
city  took  a  new  site. 

This  is  the  eleventh,  and  was  built  by  Shah  Jehan,  and  it  was 
sometimes  called  Jehanabad.  The  city  is  well  built  for  an  Ori- 
ental one,  and  yet  I  was  disappointed  in  not  seeing  more  magni- 
ficence after  all,  having  heard  so  much  of  Delhi — for  "  'tis  dis- 
tance lends  enchantment  to  the  view." 

To-day  I  passed  a  small  mosque  in  the  city — historically  very 
interesting.  When  Nadir  Shah  conquered  Delhi,  he  had  the 
generosity  (for  he  was  not  the  savage  that  he  is  generally  repre- 
sented to  have  been)  not  to  turn  the  Emperor  of  Delhi  out  of  his 
palace,  but  took  up  his  quarters  in  this  mosque,  and  had  issued 
strict  orders  to  punish  any  soldier  who  maltreated  a  native. 
Finally,  one  day,  his  Yizier  being  shot  while  sitting  by  his  side, 
he  drew  the  sword,  and  that  day  and  night  180,000  persons 
perished  in  Delhi.  The  slaughter  was  only  stopped  by  the 
Emperor  coming  from  the  palace,  and  on  his  knees  entreating 
Nadir  Shah  for  a  suspension  of  the  massacre. 

Feb.  24. — At  eight  this  morning  I  drove  out  to  see  the  Mono- 
lith, placed  on  a  lofty  foundation  of  arches,  above  which  it  shows 
about  thirty  feet,  and  is  one  of  the  famous  columns  of  the  edict 
of  Esota,  the  same  as  that  translated  by  Prinsept.  Then  to  the 
citadel,  mosque,  and  tomb  of  Humayoonon  (son  of  Baber).  The 
mosque  is  very  fine.  The  tomb  is  a  mile  distant ;  parts  of  it  are 
beautiful,  some  of  the  monuments  or  tombs  within  the  building 
are  very  chaste.  The  building  itself  is  on  a  high  terrace,  and  of 
great  size,  truly  an  imperial  tomb. 

Keturning  home  I  held  bazaar  for  three  hours  in  my  room,  and 
at  one  time  I  counted  eighteen  heads  of  venders  soliciting  the  sale 
of  their  wares.  The  articles  of  trade  were  views  on  ivory  or 
paper,  gold  and  silver  trinkets,  boxes  of  sandal  wood,  shawls  and 
scarfs  of  Delhi  and  Moultan  work. 

This  afternoon  W called   and   drove   me   out.     We 


THE  TOWER   OF   KOOTOB-UD-DEEN.  465 

visited  a  very  curious  old  temple,  and  some  tombs  with  finely 
wrought  stone  and  marble  screens,  and  an  old  Mussulman  Col- 
lege— then  to  the  bungalow.  He  dined  with  me,  and  from  three 
until  eleven  was  a  steady  flow  of  conversation  without  an 
instant's  cessation. 

Feb.  25. — Soon  after  sunrise  to-day  I  started  again  for  the 
Monolith,  with  my  sketch  book,  and  made  a  sketch  of  the  city. 

Then  home,  packing  up,  and  settling  accounts.     W came 

in  for  a  short  time  and  brought  some  books  f»r  my  perusal.  To- 
morrow, the  only  day  he  can  spare  from  his  office,  we  are  to  visit 
the  famous  Kootub  and  Toogklahabad,  the  site  of  the  original 
Delhi.  This  evening  I  have  been  studying  Forster's  Travels  in 
India,  Kashmir,  and  Persia  in  1785,  and  Tod's  Eajistan — both 
most  interesting  works.  The  latter  country  contained  the  baro- 
nial chivalry  of  India. 

Feb.  26. — Before  daylight  "W called  for  me,  and  off  we 

drove,  stopping  at  a  very  singular  old  astronomical  building  of 
brick  and  mortar  on  a  colossal  scale,  the  sun-dial  gnomon 
being  thirty-five  feet !  Among  other  things  were  sectional 
arrangements  like  an  orange  half  peeled,  also  two  semicircular 
buildings  with  a  multitude  of  windows ;  their  singular  construc- 
tion puzzled  W as  well  as  me. 

Then  to  the  tomb  of  the  ancestors  of  the  King  of  Oude, 
who  was  one  of  the  dependants  of  the  Mogul  Empire,  and 
usurped  the  throne  about  a  century  ago.  Now  on  to  the  Kootub, 
eleven  miles  from  the  city.  This  is  a  famous  tower  commenced 
by  Kootob-ud-Deen  (originally  a  Turkish  slave),  a  Mahommedan 
king.  It  was  finished  by  his  successor,  and  son-in-law,  Altumsh 
(a  Tartar  slave),  about  seven  or  eight  centuries  since :  he  also 
commenced  the  mosque  near  here. 

The  tower  is  five  stories  high,  the  three  lower  of  massive 
brown  stone,  the  other  two  of  white  marble.  The  entire  building 
is  265  feet  high.  Each  story  is  most  elaborately  ornamented, 
although  the  interior  of  the  walls  is  evidently  of  rough  stone  laid' 

80 


466  FKOM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

in  mortar,  witli  this  exterior  shell  of  brown  stone.  There  is  a 
winding  staircase  leading  through  the  centre  to  the  top  of  the 
building,  but  no  view  of  any  consequence,  the  country  being  so 
flat.  Tliere  are  some  curious  old  remains  around  the  temple, 
tombs,  arches,  etc.,  evidently  of  Hindoo  construction.  Kootub- 
ud-Deen's  tomb  is  said  to  be  within  the  building.     We  met  here 

a  Mr.  Beresford  and  family,  acquaintances  of  Mr.  W 's  ■ 

they  were  occupying  one  of  the  tombs,  and  spending  some  days 
here.  He  invited  us  to  breakfast  with  him.  After  breakfast  he 
drove  us  to  Tooghlakabad  or  as  far  as  the  mud  would  allow  the 
carriage  to  go,  and  we  walked  the  rest,  about  five  miles,  going 
and  coming  from  the  carriage  to  the  ancient  city. 

The  ruins  are  very  massive  and  extensive,  evidently  of  a  very 

early  date.     Mr.  B is  amusing  himself  photographing, 

and  has  promised  to  send  me  some  on  to  Agra.*     W and 

I  then  returned  to  the  cit}^,  he  dined  with  me,  and  at  six  I  shall 
start  for  Agra. 

Feb.  21ili^  Agra. — I  started  last  night  at  seven.  I  had  horrid 
bad  horses,  besides  apprehensions  of  robbers,  as  every  carriage 
for  several  da5^s  past  has  been  stopped.  I  rather  astonished  the 
dak  proprietor  yesterday  afternoon  when  I  laid  my  dak.  He 
was  expatiating  on  the  prowess  of  the  robbers.  I  said  I  was 
ready  for  them.  "  But  suppose  they  are  fifteen  as  they  were  a 
night  or  two  ago."  "Shoot  the  first  five,  and  trust  to  luck  and 
the  'bowie'  to  fix  the  others."  He  looked  blank  and  was 
speechless  at  such  an  Ameri-can  "  modus  operandi."  However, 
we  went  on  luckily  in  safety :  somefriend  of  the  robbers  probably 
apprised  them  of  my  being  well  armed,  and  natives  do  not  like 
to  be  unnecessarily  shot. 

*  Mr.  and  Mrs.  B and  their  family,  consisting  of  five  children,  were 

all  most  brutally  murdered  by  the  Sepoys  during  the  late  revolt.     E.  B. 

M ,  Jr.,  a  friend  of  mine,  while  lately  travelling  in  India,  was  at  a 

Christmas-eve  party  at  his  house  in  1855,  and  now  informs  me  he  is  the  sole 
survivor  of  all  the  guests  he  met  there. 


'^>,     ■^'il#^^>\^^;"l:,„„il..:iii'r 


,.  ^'''iil^ 


ji       -l;  ..   '1 


TOMB  OF  ITMUD-UD-DOWLAH.  467 

I  reached  here  at  five  this  afternoon,  and  lost  my  breakfast 
for  nothing,  as  I  had  hoped,  by  not  stopping,  to  get  in  before  the 
Post  Oflice  closed.  As  I  crossed  the  river  I  saw  the  Taj  and  the 
lofty  walls  of  the  fortress,  which  presents  an  appearance  of 
great  strength ;  but  a  few  shells  would  speedily  reduce  it  I 
fancy. 

Feh.  28ih. — This  morning  I  had  the  buggy  at  the  door  by  day- 
light for  a  visit  to  the  Taj — not  on  the  principle  of  the  best  first, 
but  of  seeing  it  as  often  as  possible.  It  certainly  is  beautiful, 
but  the  dome  is  to  my  eye  rather  heavy  for  the  edifice,  a  common 
fault  with  Mahommedan  buildings, 

I  met  Major  and  Mrs,  B ,  who  were  staying  with  Colo- 
nel Sleeman  when  I  was  at  Lucknow.  They  apologised  for  not 
being  able  to  ask  me  to  their  house,  as  they  were  expecting  some 
friends  to  arrive  to-day.  Then  to  the  Post  Office,  where  I  found 
a  grand  mail  for  me.  After  breakfastv  I  went  off  again  to  call 
upon  the  Governor,  a  steamer  acquaintance,  and  present  some 
letters.  Most  unfortunately  the  Governor  had  gone  off  to  Mee- 
rut,  so  I  shall  not  see  him  or  stay  at  his  house  as  I  was  to  have 
done. 

I  then  called  on  Mr.  Mawson,  of  the  Delhi  Gazette,  who  invited 
me  to  stay  with  him,  and  I  accepted.  Then  to  see  my  old  steamer 
acquaintance,  Mr,  Pfander,  a  very  celebrated  German  missionary. 
He  made  an  appointment  to  take  me  out  to  Secundra  on  Thurs- 
day. I  continued  on  calling  upon  Mr.  Fullerton,  an  American 
missionary,  who  was  very  anxious  I  should  stay  with  him.  He 
introduced  me  to  his  colleague  Mr.  "Williams,  who  drove  me 
across  the  river  to  see  a  very  handsome  and  singular  tomb  built 
bj-  Ackbar's  Vizier,  Itmud-ud-Dowlah,  It  was  covered  inside 
and  out  with  a  coarse  mosaic. 

These  tombs  were  built  by  the  people  themselves,  and  in  gar- 
dens, which  are  now  a  summer  resort.  In  another  place  is  a 
tomb  with  a  corresponding  building  on  the  four  sides;  it  is 
termed  the  Jawab,  or  Answer,     In  this  building  were  male  and 


468  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

female  tombs ;  the  former  a  small  raised  place :  in  tlie  latter,  on 
top  of  the  tomb,  a  tablet  like  a  slate,  as  enigmatical  of  a  woman's 
character — to  be  formed  by  her  husband. 

Next  to  the  Eam-bagh,  or  Garden  of  Eam,  a  short  distance  off, 
and  a  very  extensive  affair.  From  this  place  I  saw  numerous 
remains  of  old  houses  belonging  to  the  wealthier  people  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river. 

In  this  garden  are  peach  and  apple  trees,  not  only  dwarfed  in 
size,  but  with  fruit  of  corresponding  proportions  ;  also  plantains 
and  the  rumak — the  fruit  of  the  latter  tart,  but  pleasant.  The 
tree  presents  almost  as  singular  an  appearance  as  the  fruit. 

Returning  to  Mr.  F 's  we  passed  through  the  Delhi  gate 

— a  magnificent  custom  of  the  Emperors  naming  the  gates  from 
the  greatest  city  on  that  side — a  prospective  plan  of  extensive 
empire,  as  Napoleon  I.  did  when  he  had  more  than  prospective 
empire.  ^^11  Europe  at  his  feet,  and  his  eagles  fluttering  over 
nearly  every  people  on  that  continent.  The  avenue  of  trees  on 
either  side  of  the  road  is  spoken  of  in  Lalla  Rookh.  Last  even- 
ing two  sons  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleugh,  whom  I  met  in  Egypt 
in  '51,  passed  on  to  the  north. 

March  1st. — At  half-past  seven  this  morning  I  started  for  the 

fort  to  meet  Mr.  F ,  who  had  kindly  offered  to  take  me 

through  this  Palace  Citadel.  Shortly  after  entering  the  gate,  I 
saw  what  seemed  to  be  a  small  brick  shed.  I  was  informed  it 
was  the  treasury,  where  lacs  and  lacs  of  rupees  were  stored  (a 

lac  is  100,000,  or  $50,000).     Mr.  F said  that  one  day  he 

saw  fifty  cartloads  of  rupees  leave  the  place ! 

Then  to  the  Muttee  Musjid,  or  "Pearl  Mosque,"  by  some  con- 
sidered the  most  beautiful  building  in  Agra.  It  is  of  white 
marble,  massive  and  chaste,  a  building  that  at  once  impresses 
you  with  its  beauty.  There  is  one  central,  and  two  side  halls, 
the  latter  for  the  females.  The  middle  one  is  subdivided  into  five 
parts,  a  lofty  central,  arched  nave,  and  four  lateral  arched  aisles. 
The  floor  is  paved  with  large  slabs  of  white  marble,  each  with  a 


ackbar's  durbar  throne.         469 

slight  inlaid  border  terminating  in  a  point  towards  Mecca.     Eaeh 
stone  is  for  one  worshipper. 

The  front  is  supported  by  massive  columns  connected  with 
each  other  by  equally  massive  marble  festoons.  The  principal 
dome,  and  several  smaller  ones,  complete  the  exterior  decorations. 

I  then  passed  through  the  fine  gardens  of  the  Zenana,  the 
beds  of  which  were  divided  into  various  shapes  by  stone  borders. 
Here  are  fountains  and  a  lovely  little  pavilion,  all  of  white  mar- 
ble, even  to  the  pavement  and  walls  ;  the  latter  beautifally  deco- 
rated with  flowers  in  mosaic. 

But  it  is  vain  to  attempt  to  describe  such  a  labyrinth  of  courts 
and  pavilions,  all  as  beautiful  as  it  is  possible  to  conceive — a 
maze  of  architecture,  sculpture,  and  mosaic.  I've  seen  nothing 
as  delicately  beautiful  since  leaving  the  Alhambra — and  that 
was  wood, — this  is  marble.  All  here  has  that  necessary  point 
to  real  beauty — a  water  view. 

The  Jumna  flows  beneath  the  walls  of  this  palace  fortress,  and 
though  now  much  reduced  in  width  from  the  lateness  of  the 
season,  yet,  during  the  wet  months  is  several  miles  in  width  at 
this  part ;  there  is  a  view  of  the  Taj  from  every  part  of  this 
palace.  I  think  from  here,  one  has  the  best  view.  The  weight 
of  the  dome  does  not  appear  as  oppressive  and  crushing  to  the 
building,  as  it  has  from  every  other  point  I  have  seen  it. 

We  then  visited  Ackbar's  Durbar  throne — a  massive  slab  of 
black  marble,  ten  feet  by  six,  six  inches  thick,  and  supported 
by  legs  a  foot  high — all  one  stone. 

When  the  Eajah  of  Bhurtpore  captured  Agra  many  years 
ago,  he  sat  upon  it — an  indignity  it  resented  by  shedding  blood, 
the  spots  of  which  are  still  shown,  besides  cracking  it.  Lord 
Ellenborough  did  the  same,  and  made  matters  worse.  Opposite, 
is  a  small  marble  seat  for  the  Vizier,  and  in  another  part  a 
kutcherry  to  settle  hareem  difficulties. 

Beneath,  is  a  long  vaulted  passage,  said  to  lead  to  the  Taj,  but 
from  it,  branches  off  a  passage  leading  to  a  very  different  place, 
which  some  British  officers,  in  exploring  its  dark  passages  a  few 


470  FROM   WALL   STEEET   TO    CASHMERE. 

years  ago,  discovered.  Part  of  the  wall  had  been  closed  up.  On 
opening  it,  they  discovered  a  gibbet,  and  beneath  a  deep  pit,  from 
which  they  drew  up  with  grappling  irons,  a  number  of  bones, 
supposed  to  be  where  the  Emperors  settled  the  more  serious 
difficulties  of  the  hareem. 

We  continued  on  beneath,  and  entered  an  exquisite  marble 
bath  of  great  size  with  niches  in  the  walls  for  rows  of  lights. 
From  one  fell  a  cascade.  The  walls  are  inlaid  with  small  bits 
of  convex  looking  glass,  and  when  brilliantly  illuminated  must 
have  presented  a  fine  effect. 

Wandering  on,  we  came  into  an  old  building,  said  to  have 
been  for  the  ladies  of  the  hareem  to  amuse  themselves  playing 
"hide  and  go  seek" — certainly  well  adapted  to  the  purpose,  with 
its  labyrinthine  passages.  Then  into  a  beautiful  marble  pavi- 
lion, the  arches  supported  on  light  double  columns ;  the  whole  a 
mass  of  the  richest  mosaic.  Afterwards  we  mounted  to  the  top 
of  the  building,  where  a  fine  coiq-)  cfoeil  of  all  is  presented,  with 
the  addition  of  the  glittering  gilt  domes  which  we  could  not  see 
below. 

The  buildings  are  all  kept  in  admirable  order,  and  as  neat  and 
fresh  looking  as  if  at  present  occupied — not  a  vestige  of  age  or 
dilapidation.      Lord  Lake's  cannon  balls  made  a  few  holes  in 
the  marble  screens  and  walls  when  he  was  dislodging  the  Mah 
rattas. 

The  arsenal  I  am  obliged  to  leave  until  another  day,  as  this  is 
one  of  the  native  holidays.  We  went  out  over  the  drawbridge, 
a  rather  formidable  place  to  pass  when  occupied  by  an  enemy. 
This  fortress  as  well  as  the  city  were  built  by  Ackbar,  and  some- 
times called  Ackbarabad,  or  City  of  Ackbar.  But  he  only  built 
of  red  sand-stone.  I  am  informed  it  was  Shah  Jehan  who  intro- 
duced the  marble. 

Ackbar  was  the  most  illustrious  of  that  wonderful  succession 
of  distinguished  emperors,  probably  one  of  the  most  extraor- 
dinary that  ever  occupied  any  throne.  These  emperors  all  claim 
their  descent  from  Tamerlane,  though  the  claim  is  doubted ! ! 


"l  WA-ANT   GO   HOME   'tIL   MA-AE-NIN."  4?1 

Thence  to  the  Jumma  Musjid,  now  in  a  very  dilapidated  con- 
dition, having  suffered  much  when  Agra  was  in  possession  of  the 
Mahrattas.  Lord  Lake  knowing  the  untenableness  of  the  place, 
offered  them  terms  if  they  would  surrender.  They  declined,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  he  had  the  walls  and  gates  battered  down,  and 
a  thousand  natives  bayoneted. 

This  mosque  has  the  usual  grand  central  arched  nave,  and  two 
side  aisles :  the  centre  arch  is  noble,  and  this  mosque  must  have 
ranked  among  the  finest  of  the  many  beautiful  mosques  in 
India. 

"We  continued  on,  passing  through  the  principal  street.  It  is 
narrow,  but  well  built,  essentially  Oriental,  and  I  think  presents 
a  finer  appearance  than  even  Delhi.  Then  to  the  bungalow, 
where  I  found  a  note  from  Mawson,  requesting  me  to  move  in 
as  soon  as  I  can — so  breakfasted  and  packed  up  as  well  as  I  could, 
with  applicants  at  the  door  to  answer  every  moment;  people 
with  boxes,  clothing,  and  in  fact  a  little  of  everything :  winding- 
up  with  a  musician  who  pr-cssnted  a  book  fall  of  certificates 
declaring  him  to  be  ^  perfect  Mario.  So  thinking  it  might  be  an 
amusing  variety,  I  told  him  to  go  into  an  adjoining  room  and 
pipe  away,  which  he  accordingly  did,  and  played  very  nicely 
after  the  Indian  fashion  on  the  harp,  assisted  by  a  violin  and 
drurn^  occasionally  bursting  forth  with  a  song.  Once  he  over- 
came my  gravity  by  ^'•I  lua-ani  go  home  Hil  ma-ar-nin\  I  iva-ant  go 
home  Hil  ma-ar-nin\''^  A  correctness  of  pronunciation  like  that 
which  some  of  our  fair  vocalists  indulge  in — singing  Italian. 

Then  a  long  "pow  wow"  with  some  dak  chowdries,  and 
moved  to  Mawson's.  This  afternoon  we  drove  to  the  band ;  saw 
numerous  specimens  of  amalgamation,  almost  jet  black  half  castes 
with  fair  European  wives.  This  evening  I  received  the  photo- 
graphs from  Mr.  Beresford  at  Delhi. 

March  2d. — This  morning  I  bought  a  dhooly,  and  laid  a  dak 
to  Futtepore  Sekree  for  to-night,  and  then  to  Mr.  Pfander's  to 
breakfast,  and  with  him  to  Secundra,  xlckbar's  tomb,  a  distance 


472  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

of  about  seven  miles.  On  the  way,  I  saw  one  of  Ackbar's  old 
mile-stones,  looking  like  a  funeral  monument. 

The  road  on  both  sides  is  lined  with  ruins.  The  entrance  to 
the  tomb,  is  a  lofty  building  with  an  immense  dome,  and  arched- 
way.  It  is  imposing,  and  a  mass  of  coarse  mosaic,  but  the  effect 
is  fine. 

The  tomb  is  very  large,  and  five  stories  high,  each  story 
receding  on  every  side,  forming  a  succession  of  noble  porticoes 
and  terraces.  The  upper  story  is  of  white  marble  with  screens 
of  lattice-work  of  the  same  material.  The  other  parts  of  the 
building  are  of  red  sand-stone.  Around  the  inside  of  the  Sara- 
cenic arches,  in  the  porticoes,  are  written  praises  of  Ackbar.  In 
the  centre  of  this  quadrangle,  is  the  cenotaph  of  Ackbar,  a  solid 
block  of  white  marble,  so  beautifully  sculptured  as  almost  to 
appear  like  a  lace-pall  thrown  over  it.  On  this  are  written  the 
ninety-nine  attributes  of  God. 

In  the  first  story  is  the  real  tomb  of  Ackbar.  In  a  domed 
chamber,  on  the  side,  is  the  tomb  of  another  of  his  family.  These 
domed  chambers  extend  around  the  building,  his  intention  being 
that  this  structure  should  be  a  grand  mausoleum  for  his  family ; 
but  they  had  other  views  on  the  subject.  The  building  is  nearly 
four  hundred  feet  square. 

Then  on  to  Mr.  Henler's,  another  of  the  German  missionaries, 
who  was  with  Mr.  Pfander  when  he  was  driven  out  of  Persia 
through  the  influence  of  the  Eussian  Government.  He  looks 
like  a  very  intelligent  person.  In  addition  to  his  other  labors,  he 
is  correcting  a  translation  of  the  Bible  in  Hindostanee.     He  and 

Mr.  P are  both  supported  by  the  Church  Missionary 

Society  of  England,  which  pays  very  liberally — 300  rupees  or 
$150  a  month — while  the  Americans  only  receive  about  150 
rupees  or  $75  per  month,  with  which  it  is  very  hard  work  to 
make  the  two  ends  of  the  year  meet,  with  the  necessary  esta- 
blishment which  the  castes  impose  upon  Europeans  and  Ameri- 
cans. 

Messrs.  P and  H took  me  to  their  school  for  boys 


THE   MISSIONARY   PRESS.  473 

and  girls.     Some  of  the  latter  were  very  bright  looking.    All  were 

writing  in  Persian  on  slates.     Mr.  P says  they  can  dis- 

tin2;uish  a  difference  in  bri  Witness  between  the  children  of 
Christian,  and  other  natives!  Then  to  their  printing-press,  the 
largest  in  India !  It  was  started  to  furnish  work  for  the  orphans 
they  took  charge  of  after  the  great  famine  of  1838.  Mr.  Thomas- 
son  said  he  would  give  them  the  printing  of  the  Northwest  Pro- 
vinces if  they  would  arrange  to  do  it  all ;  so  they  have  appro- 
priated all  the  earnings  of  the  press  for  the  last  ten  years  in 
enlarging  and  paying  off  their  indebtedness,  and  are  now  nearly 
out  of  debt. 

They  employ  500  workmen.  They  pay  the  superintendent 
$3,200  per  annum,  and  have  several  type-founders  from  Leip- 
sic.  Then  to  the  Christian  village  formed  by  these  orphans, 
many  of  whom  are  married  and  have  families.  When  they  can 
earn  enough  to  support  a  family,  they  are  allowed  to  marry,  and 
are  given  a  house.  There  are  now  several  streets  of  these  houses, 
the  entire  population  of  which  is  over  400.  The  printing-press 
is  in  the  tomb  of  Ackbar's  Portuguese  Queen. 

From  the  top  is  a  fine  view  of  Ackbar's  tomb.  The  portals 
and  marble  minar  of  which  are  fluted,  and  the  only  ones  of  the 
kind  I've  seen  in  India.  Home,  and  packing  up,  and  shall  start 
after  tea  for  Futtepore  Sekree. 

March  2>d,  Bhurtpore. — Last  evening  I  was  off  at  ten,  with 
a  double  set  of  bearers  (thirteen  men),  who  are  to  accompany  me 
the  entire  tour,  which  will  last  several  days.  They  started  with 
a  song  and  invocation  to  Ram. 

We  reached  Futtepore  Sekree  at  six  this  morning.  This  was 
a  favorite  country  residence  of  Ackbar — a  kind  of  Windsor 
Castle — a  fortified  palace  and  a  wall  of  seven  miles  in  length 
extending  around  the  low  grounds  of  the  village.  The  jjlace  is 
about  twenty-two  miles  from  Agra.  While  I  was  eating  break- 
fast, the  guide  made  his  appearance.  Sheik  Bashaut  Ali,  a  jolly- 
looking,  white-bearded  antediluvian,  who  is  alwa3^s  ready  with 


474  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

a  story  or  song  for  tlie  traveller.  His  chief  pleasure  is  in  relating 
tlie  various  legends  of  the  place,  and  showing  his  numerous  cer- 
tificates from  visitors,  with  a  final  hope  that  when  he  dies  he  may 
be  buried  near  his  sainted  Sheik  Saleem  Shisty. 

Starting  under  his  auspices  I  visited  first,  a  small  building  in 
the  centre  of  the  Palace  court  or  quadrangle,  appropriated  to 
Ackbar's  Christian  Queen,  the  Eomy  Begum.  The  exterior  was 
once  painted  in  fresco.  One  side  represents  some  Hindoo  gods; 
the  rest  of  the  building  is  approjDriated  to  a  representation  of  the 
exploits  of  the  Hero  Eustan,  with  the  exception  of  one  panel, 
which  has  rather  a  vague  picture  of  three  figures  with  wings,  like 
an  Annunciation ;  but,  like  the  others,  this  is  nearly  obliterated. 
If  the  inside  ever  had  similar  decorations,  they  are  concealed  by 
that  unscrupulous  renovator — whitewash — which  alike  delights 
Christian  and  infidel. 

Near  here  is  another  singular  building  called  the  Panch  Mahal, 
rising  five  stories,  with  terraces.  Of  its  use  there  are  various 
conjectures;  by  some  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  servants' 
building.  The  stories  are  low,  and  the  first  so  full  of  curiously 
sculptured  old  columns,  it  strongly  reminded  me  of  the  singular 
cathedral  at  Cordova,  formerly  a  grand  mosque.  Opposite  this 
is  a  small  domed  veranda  or  portico,  with  Hindoo  architecture. 

While  my  imagination  was  at  work,  thinking  why  it  could 
have  been  put  there,  my  guide  informed  me  Ackbar  had  a  famous 
Gooru  (Hindoo  holy  man),  probably  from  policy,  as  his  religion 
was  worn  so  lightly  it  had  slipped  off  altogether,  and  several 
times  he  sent  to  Goa  for  priests. 

Adjoining  the  same  court  is  a  two-story  building  like  a  small 
chapel,  very  richly  and  elaborately  sculptured.  Around  the 
interior  of  the  second  story  is  a  gallery,  and  from  the  centre  of 
the  building  a  massive  column  rose  with  a  heavy  capital,  orna- 
mented with  stalactites,  as  were  the  corners  of  the  room.  From 
this  column  were  four  stone  galleries,  or  passages  connecting  with 
the  corners. 

Here  Ackbar  is  represented  to  have  met  his  wise  men  to  con- 


THE  TOMB   OF   SHEIK  SALEEM-SHISTY.  475 

suit  on  politics,  religion,  and  science.  Near  bj  is  another  beau- 
tifully sculptured  building. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  court  is  a  large  Pachesa-board  laid 
in  the  pavement,  and  forming  a  cross,  with  an  elevated  place  in 
the  centre.  The  game  must  have  been  like  that  of  school-boys 
with  us — of  "  Fox  and  Geese." 

In  an  adjoining  court  Ackbar's  Kutcherry,  or  Hall  of  Justice, 
called  Diwar-e-am.  Here  the  people  greeted  him  with  the  excla- 
mation of  "  God  is  great :"  and  he  replied  "  May  His  glory  shine 
for  ever." 

Near  this  stood  the  Mint,  a  large,  low  building,  forming  a 
hollow  square,  around  which  are  two  low  arched  halls,  divided 
by  massive  arches,  which  support  the  roof  and  low  domes  which 
form  the  ceiling.  Then  back  to  the  Palace,  and  through  a  laby- 
rinthine building  for  the  ladies  to  play  "  Hide  and  Seek." 

In  the  stable-yard  each  horse  had  a  stone-partition  stall,  and 
manger  of  the  same  material.  Near  here  is  the  Elephant  Gate, 
so  I  termed  from  two  colossal  elephants  on  the  exterior,  made 
of  stone. 

This  entrance  is  flanked  by  two  octagonal  towers.  Beyond, 
and  below  is  a  singular-looking  minar,  or  tower,  the  upper  part 
studded  with  spikes,  and  called  the  Elephant  Minar — ^perhaps 
over  the  grave  of  a  favorite  elephant. 

Then  to  the  Durga,  or  tomb  of  Sheik  Saleem-Shisty,  who  was 
a  man  of  great  sanctity,  and  favorite  priest  of  Acbar.  The  tra- 
dition is,  that  he  was  discovered  on  this  hill  about  three  hundred 
and  fifty  years  ago,  by  a  wood  or  stone-cutter,  who  in  vain  j^er- 
suaded  him  to  leave  it.  One  day  he  saw  some  tigers  in  his  cave, 
with  whom  he  appeared  to  be  on  terms  of  friendship.  This 
established  his  sanctity  as  a  Fakeer.  As  his  reputation  increased, 
so  did  his  riches ;  and  at  length  he  built  this  tomb  and  mosque, 
at  an  expense  of  37  lacs,  or  $1,750,000.  It  consists  of  a  most 
imposing  gateway,  120  feet  high,  with  a  portal  arch  of  80  feet. 
The  entire  front  of  red  sandstone,  studded  with  coarse  mosaic. 
The  effect  is  very  fine. 


4:76  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Around  the  interior  is  a  pillared  corridor,  thirty  feet  higli.  On 
one  side  is  a  beautiful  mosque,  like  the  Hall  of  Eeception  at  the 
Alhambra,  only  stone  and  marble  here  supply  the  place  of  wood, 
stucco,  and  azulajos. 

In  the  centre  of  one  side  of  the  court  opposite  the  gateway, 
is  a  beautiful  white  marble  temple — tomb  of  the  Sheik  Saleem- 
Shisty.  The  tomb  is  like  a  high-post  bedstead  in  appearance, 
with  post  and  canopy  of  mother-of-pearl — the  walls  forming  screen 
work  in  marble. 

The  floors  are  of  beautiful  tessellated  marbles.  In  the  rear  is 
a  perfect  burying-ground  of  a  mausoleum.  The  court  of  this 
mosque  and  tomb  is  408  by  430  feet.  Then  to  my  temporary 
bungalow  in  one  of  the  palace  buildings,  and  off  to  this  place,  a 
hot  ride  in  my  dhooly.     The  distance  is  fourteen  miles. 

I  arrived  here  at  half-past  four,  but  too  late  to  get  an  elephant 
from  the  Eajah,  who  always  provides  travellers  with  them — a 
part  of  the  inconvenience  of  my  having  missed  the  Governor, 
who  would  have  facilitated  me  in  all  my  movements. 

This  is  an  independent  State  and  at  times  has  given  the  East 
India  Company  much  trouble,  Not  having  the  elephant,  I  tried 
pedestrianism,  and  started  with  my  guide  and  sketch-book.  Soon 
after  leaving  the  bungalow,  I  crossed  the  outer  wall,  which  is  of 
mud,  and  then  on  for  two-thirds  of  a  mile  to  a  deep  wide  moat 
and  drawbridge — rather  a  hard  place  to  storm — the  moat  being 
200  feet  wide  and  full  of  water,  with  a  wall  on  the  opposite  side, 
and  lofty  walls  to  the  citadel. 

Inside  I  ascended  a  temple  overhanging  the  wall,  from  whence 
there  is  a  good  view.  On  and  passed  the  Eajah's  kutcherry,  and 
two  palaces,  one  very  large,  to  a  high  hill,  which  I  climbed. 
Here  the  Mahrattas  had  their  heavy  guns  in  the  siege  under 
Lord  Lake,  and  the  later  one  in  '25  or  '26  under  Lord  Comber- 
mere. 

Within  the  citadel  wall,  is  another  high  mud  wall,  now  fast 
crumbling.  The  city  appears  large,  populous,  and,  for  a  native 
town,  well  built.     On  going  out  of  the  gate  of  the  city,  I  passed 


BURIAL-PLACE   OF  THE  JAUT  CHIEFS.  477 

one  of  the  princes  returning  in  a  carriage  witli  a  large  escort. 
At  eleven  this  evening  I  shall  start  for  Govcrclund. 

March  4:th,  Muttea. — This  morning  shortly  after  light,  I 
reached  Goverdund  (twenty  miles),  also  within  the  Eajah  of  Bhurt- 
pore's  country.  There  not  being  a  bungalow,  I  had  my  dhooly 
deposited  in  the  verandah  of  one  of  the  fine  tombs,  and  made 
my  breakfast  on  cold  tea,  and  a  dry  chepatty  (dough  cake), 
which  I  fortunately  asked  the  kitmagar  to  give  me  last  night. 

With  a  guide,  I  visited  the  tomb  of  Sooridg-MuU,  one  of 
the  Bhurtpore  Eajahs.  The  buildings  are  fine,  and  consist  of  a 
temple  and  verandah  on  a  terrace,  with  a  noble  tank  about  400 
feet  square,  and  a  lofty  flight  of  steps  leading  from  the  water  to 
the  terrace.  On  either  side  of  each  flight  is  a  high  side  wall, 
terminating  with  an  octagonal  tower.  This  tomb  is  a  mile  out 
of  the  town. 

The  tomb  I  am  in,  has  the  finest  building,  though  the  tank  is 
smaller,  but  I  counted  thirty-two  steps  in  the  flight  from  the  ter- 
race to  the  tank. 

The  building  is  of  two  stories  ;  the  lower  is  a  terrace,  and  within 
a  very  holy  temple,  I  suppose,  for  I  could  not  go  in.  The  upper 
Ls  the  tomb,  the  exterior  walls  of  which  are  covered  with  fine 
sculpture.  The  interior  is  of  most  peculiar  fresco,  commemo- 
rating events — one  is  the  capture  of  Bhurtpore.  On  the  four 
sides  and  corners  were  small  erections  which  I  hardly  know 
what  to  call. 

This  is  the  burial-place  of  the  Jaut  chiefs,  and  contains  many 
tombs,  though  I  only  give  the  two  best.  This  last  one  is  of  Bul- 
mut  Singh. 

At  mid-day,  on  to  this  place,  a  distance  of  fourteen  miles.  As  I 
was  leaving  Goverdund,  I  saw  a  poor  wretch  measuring  his 
length  to  this  place,  for  penance.  I  have  described  the  process 
before.  This  is  a  very  holy  place.  There  not  being  a  dak  bun- 
galow, as  I  understood  there  was,  I  was  obliged  to  have  my 
dhooly  placed  in  a  native  caravansary.     I  then  got  a  guide  and 


478  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

walked  out,  while  I  sent  a  man  to  look  me  up  some  chepatties, 
or  bread,  and  a  candle,  for  my  larder  was  precious  low — only  a 
stale  cbepatty  and  no  bungalow,  with  a  journey  of  forty-eigbt 
miles  before  me  for  to-morrow. 

I  crossed  tbe  bridge  over  this  part  of  the  Jumna,  and  walked 
upon  a  small  island.  The  Ghauts  are  like  those  of  most  Hindoo 
cities.  This  seems  a  large  and  well-built  town,  with  houses  of 
four  and  five  stories. 

I  stopped  and  sketched  some  buildings  in  my  note-book  as  a 
reminiscence,  and  then  returned  to  the  dhooly,  where,  with  great 
good  luck  I  found  my  man  had  brought  me  two  fresh  loaves, 
and  a  sperm  candle,  instead  of  "  a  dip  "  as  I  expected.  So  drop- 
ping the  curtains  of  the  dhooly,  I  prepared  for  a  famous  repast. 
For  want  of  a  candlestick,  I  took  off  one  of  my  shoes,  and 
tearing  out  four  or  five  leaves  from  an  old  review,  I  made  a  hole 
in  them,  and  laying  them  across  the  shoe,  made  a  socket. 

Unfortunately  for  my  dinner,  the  heat  has  made  my  last  bot- 
tle of  beer  sour,  the  cold  tea  gone,  and  brandy  with  tepid  water 
not  very  palatable.     So  I  did  not  waste  much  time  over  my  dinner. 

And  now,  with  my  portfolio  in  my  lap,  I  am  finishing  my 
letter,  which  will  only  just  reach  Agra  in  time  for  the  mail. 
I  am  surrounded  by  a  melodious  set  of  people,  who  have  not 
ceased  singing  for  the  last  three  hours. 

March  bill,  Agra. — After  a  very  comfortable  night  in  my 
peculiar  quarters,  I  started  at  half-past  three  for  Bunderabund, 
eight  miles,  which  I  reached  at  six.  Here,  on  waking  up,  I  found 
I  was  deposited  under  a  beautiful  stone  verandah ;  so  dressed, 
and  gave  the  men  money  to  buy  me  a  chatty  to  heat  water  in, 
bring  some  wood,  and  get  me  fire,  milk,  and  sugar,  while  I 
started  off  to  see  the  Ghauts — the  only  things  worth  seeing  in 
these  places. 

The  bed  of  the  river  was  nearly  dry — only  a  narrow  stream 
left.  Here  were  numerous  pilgrims  bathing,  sipping  water,  and 
saying  their  prayers;  others  exclaiming,  "Kam!  Eam!"  while 


-if '^>.|W;j||||fi|!i'#    '     ^.te^l'.'^"''' 


i 


BHURTPORE,  479 

farther  on  a  number  of  dhobies  were  engaged  in  the  more  useful 
work  of  washing. 

Making  a  small  sketch  of  one  of  the  temples  (for  there  is  a 
great  resemblance  in  all  Hindoo  architecture),  I  returned  to  my 
dhoolj  much  pleased  with  what  I  had  seen. 

In  this  place  there  are  many  fine  buildings  along  the  Ghauts, 
and  interspersed  as  thej  are  with  trees,  they  present  quite  a 
picturesque  appearance.  This  is  the  Benares  of  this  part  of 
India,  and  the  seat  of  Krishna,  and  also  the  famous  mytho- 
logical account  of  her,  and  some  forty  thousand  milkmaids.  Ee- 
turning  to  the  dhooly,  I  found  a  chatty  of  water  boiling,  some 
milk,  and  a  quantity  of  crystallized  sugar  wrapped  in  the  corner 
of  the  mantle  of  one  of  my  Coolies,  You  may  smile,  but  would 
not  be  more  particular,  if  you  had  had  all  this  travelling  and 
jolting,  besides  fasting  for  thirty-six  hours,  with  no  better  pros- 
pect than  a  pot  of  tea  made  by  pouring  tea,  milk,  and  sugar,  all 
into  this  same  chatty,  and  a  loaf  of  stale,  dry  bread  for  twenty- 
four  hours  more,  besides  forty-eight  miles  of  jolting ! 

I  had  no  thoughts  of  making  this  tour  when  I  left  Agra, 
not  supposing  I  had  time,  or  the  men  could  carry  me  so  far ; 
for  by  the  time  I  return  it  will  be  112  miles  in  sixty-four 
hours. 

There  are  any  number  of  monkeys  about  this  building,  and  I 
expect  every  moment  one  will  drop  in  upon  me,  or  stop  and 
steal  something. 

I  reached  here  at  a  little  past  midnight,  after  my  mostly 
impromptu  journey,  tired,  hungry,  and  dusty.  Of  the  places  I 
visited,  Bhurtpore  was  one  of  the  strong  fortresses  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  which  formed  the  nucleus  around  which  the  dis- 
contented could  rebel,  and  retire  to  in  case  of  attack.  Though 
twice  besieged  by  the  English,  it  was  never  fairly  captured  but 
once. 

The  first  siege  was  under  Lord  Lake  in  1804,  when  the  enemy 
capitulated  after  the  English  had  suffered  great  loss,  and  were 
about  to  turn  the  siege  into  a  blockade.     The  other  was  in  1825, 


480  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

wlien  Lord  Combermere  blew  tlieir  works  to  pieces  by  immense 
mines.  Goverdund  I've  described.  Muttra  I've  said  is  one  ol 
the  most  sacred  places  in  India,  nearly  equal  to  Benares. 

Here,  where  Krishna  is  said  to  have  bathed,  the  late  Eajah  of 
Gwalior  erected  an  immense  tank.  To  this  place  his  banker  or 
treasurer  retired,  after  paying  a  million  of  rupees  to  settle  his 
accounts,  and  left  the  country  with  the  balance  of  his  property. 
His  son,  Loochmachund,  is  now  considered  the  wealthiest  banker 
in  India.  He  is  an  immense  dealer  in  opium,  and  a  very  curious 
person.  A  few  years  ago  he  erected  a  magnificent  temple  at 
Bunderabund  a  few  miles  from  here,  and  at  the  same  time  con- 
tributes to  the  missionary  societies  for  schools,  whenever  they 
ask  for  money.  The  English  wished  to  establish  a  church  here, 
and  he  provided  the  parsonage.  Sometimes  he  appears  in  state 
with  a  carriage  and  six,  with  outriders,  guards,  etc. ;  and  a  few 
hours  afterwards  perhaps  driving  himself  in  an  ox-cart.  The 
city  of  Muttra  is  large,  and  the  projecting  stories  reminded  me 
much  of  Cairo. 

March  6th. — This  morning  before  breakfast  I  drove  out  to  the 
stores,  to  lay  in  supplies  for  my  Eajpootana  journey.  After 
breakfast  I  went  and  bid  Messrs.  Fullerton  and  Williams  good- 
bye, then  home  and  packing  up.  This  afternoon  with  Mawson 
to  the  Taj.     I  dread  to  begin  a  description  of  its  beauties,  they 

will  so  little  portray  them.     M had  his  flute  and  played. 

I've  never  heard  anything  more  beautiful  than  the  notes  and 
echoes  gradually  growing  fainter  and  fainter,  as  they  reverberated 
through  gallery,  chamber,  and  niche. 

While  enjoying  the  beauties  of  the  place,  a  Frenchman  came 
in,  puffing  his  segar.  From  here  we  went  to  see  a  full  dress 
review  by  General  Anson  (who  commands  this  division),  of  the 
8th  (Queen's),  which  presented  a  very  fine  appearance,  as  Eng- 
lish troops  always  do.  They  went  through  the  review  in  a  most 
soldierly  manner.  All  the  "beauty  and  fashion"  were  here,  and 
a  few  others  ;  for  much  as  they  have  to  do  with  the  military  in 


THE   FIELD   OF  MAHAEAJPOEE.  481 

India,  still  they  always  attract  every  one  in  the  place ;  partly 
because  most  are  connected  with  the  regiments. 

March  7th,  Gwalioe. — Last  night  I  started  at  half-past  eight, 
and  when  I  got  two  miles  out  of  town,  I  found  mj  bright- 
witted  servant  had  forgot  to  put  in  any  boots,  which  was  rather 
an  awkward  "fix,"  as  I  had  nothing  but  the  slippers  on  my 
feet ;  so  I  was  set  down  in  the  road  for  an  hour,  until  one  of  the 
bearers  could  go  back  for  them. 

I  reached  Dholepore,  the  half-way  bungalow,  at  eight  this 
morning,  when  I  had  to  wait  nearly  three  hours  for  the  next  set 
of  bearers,  who  had  not  yet  arrived  from  Gwalior.  Near  here 
is  a  petty  Eajah's  palace.  He  sent  me  his  salaam,  but,  as  my 
bearers  had  arrived,  I  did  not  go  and  see  him. 

This  afternoon  I  passed  over  the  field  of  Maharajpore,  where 
Lord  Gough  managed  to  blunder  into  a  battle  before  he  was 
aware  he  was  near  the  enemy.  There  had  been  some  difficulty 
■with  the  Eanee  at  Gwalior,  the  capital  of  Scindia  (as  it  is  known 
by,  as  Indore  is  known  as  that  of  Holkar,  and  Baroda  of  the 
Guicowar — the  three  great  ^Mahratta  houses  that  some  years  ago 
swayed  all  the  central  part  of  India).  Lord  Gough  marched 
down  with  about  12,000  troops,  accompanied  by  the  Governor- 
General  Lord  Ellenborough,  and  his  suite,  including  a  number 
of  ladies,  wives  of  notabihties,  for  it  was  hardly  supposed  there 
would  be  a  battle. 

The  native  troops  marched  out  to  meet  Lord  Gough,  instead 
of  waiting  for  him ;  and  meeting  him  as  he  was  passing  through 
a  wide  open  country  slightly  undulating,  with  only  tall  grass 
and  grain  to  obscure  objects,  they  managed  to  pass  all  the  native 
army,  consisting  of  about  sixteen  thousand ;  and  just  as  the  ladies 
and  luggage  were  bringing  up  the  rear,  the  natives  commenced 
the  battle,  and  the  troops  had  to  return  in  order  to  fight,  as  the 
enemy  were  actually  behind  them.  The  battle  was  one  of  the 
most  obstinate,  and  the  armies  more  nearly  matched,  than  in  any 


battle  ever  fought  in  India. 


81 


482  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO    CASHMERE. 

I  continued  on  to  the  Ecsidencj,  when  I  found  the  Eesident  was 
not  staying  here,  but  at  the  cantonment,  so  went  on  about  seven 
miles.  As  it  was  nine  o'clock  when  I  reached  there  I  told  my 
bearers  to  take  me  to  the  dak  bungalow,  not  liking  to  present 
myself  at  a  stranger's  house  at  that  hour  of  the  night.  They  said 
there  was  no  dak  bungalow  ;  so  I  told  them  to  take  me  to  the 
Resident's  ;  when  I  got  there  the  servants  said  they  had  gone  to  a 
**  nauichy  This  is  the  natives'  only  idea  of  the  term  for  a  dancing- 
party,  whereas,  it  literally  means  a  dance  by  professional  nautch 
dancers,  who  belong  to  the  most  dissolute  class  in  India.  I  under- 
stood what  was  meant.  They  said  they  would  not  return  in  less 
than  two  hours,  and  wished  me  to  go  there  ;  but  I  declined. 

I  waited  until  near  one  in  the  morninar,  when  the  carriage 

drove  up  to  the  door ;  as  Major  M got  out,  I  presented  my 

letter  of  introduction,  mentioning  whom  it  was  from,  and  my 
name,  as  it  was  dark.  He  at  once  received  me  most  warmly,  and 
presented  me  to  his  wife  and  daughters,  and  after  he  had  read  the 
letter,  which  was  from  one  of  his  most  particular  friends,  laugh- 
ing heartily  he  said  that  when  he  saw  me  on  the  piazza,  and  the  ser- 
vant, in  opening  the  gate,  said  a  Sahib  was  waiting  to  see  him, 
he  thought  that  I  was  a  very  disagreeable  person  who  had  been 
threatening  him  with  a  visit,  and  whom  he  had  been  trying  to 
stop  off,  in  various  ways,  and  asked  if  I  had  heard  any  of  his 
maledictions  on  my  supposed  pertinacity  (which  I  had  not).  As 
he  was  only  temporarily  in  this  a  small  house,  he  said  he  should 
have  to  put  me  in  a  tent  in  his  garden  for  the  night,  as  next  day 
he  should  move  back  to  the  "  Residency,"  and  would  give  me 
better  accommodations.  So  seeing  me  comfortable  in  my  new 
quarters,  bid  me  good  night. 

March  Sih. — This  morning,  as  soon  as  I  was  visible,  I  had  a 

visit  from  Major  M ,  who  took  me  to  the  house.     As  they 

were  all  busy  seeing  to  the  arrangements  for  moving  I  only 
saw  the  family  at  breakfast ;  after  which  he  took  me  to  call  upon 
Brigadier  Hill,  lately  appointed  to  the  command  on  account  of 


THE   FORT  OF   GWALIOR.  483 

liis  distinguished  gallantry  in  Burmali.  Then  to  see  one  or  two 
other  of  the  principal  people  here.  On  our  return  I  found  the 
ladies  were  having  quite  a  levee,  for  as  they  are  moving  to  the 
Residency,  people  were  calling  to  bid  good-bye.  Then  passed  a 
very  pleasant  morning. 

After  tiffin,  Major  M •  took  me  to  a  neighbor's,  Capt. 

M ,  upon  whom  he  wished  to  quarter  me  for  a  day  or  two, 

until  he  could  get  settled  at  the  Residency — then  home  again,  and 

a  drive  with  the  young  ladies  and  a  ^Irs.  M ,  wife  of  an 

officer  here.     We  all  dined  to-day  at  Captain  H 's,  and  in 

the  evening  a  small  party.  "We  had  a  delightful  evening,  music, 
games,  and  dancing, — the  ladies  pretty  and  charming. 

March  9th. — This  morning  Af drove  me  to  the  Fort  of 

Gwalior,  which  is  half  way  between  the  cantonment  and  Resi- 
dency. It  is  a  lofty  isolated  hill,  about  two  miles  long,  by  a 
third  of  a  mile  wide ;  the  summit  being  a  table  land,  and  alto- 
gether a  very  odd  formation,  and  almost  impregnable  unless  sur- 
prised.    "We  found  an  elephant  at  the  gate  of  the  fort,  which 

Major  M had  sent  for  us  ;  and  mounting  we  ascended  the 

long  flights  of  winding  steps.  On  this,  the  western  side,  is  the  Pa- 
lace forming  part  of  the  wall,  and  presenting  a  very  handsome, 
elaborately  ornamented  front  of  brown  stone.  High  up,  were 
small  balconies,  where  the  hareem  could  enjoy  the  air  unseen. 

The  fort  is  guarded  by  a  rather  fine-looking  police,  dressed 
after  the  style  of  the  French  soldiers,  in  blue  frock  coats, 
although  they  wore  the  Glengarry  bonnets.  This  was  the  capital 
of  Scindia,  and  the  uniform  a  relic  of  French  drill  and  officers. 

Reaching  the  top  of  the  fort,  I  found  only  a  mass  of  ruins,  a 
miserably  weak  citadel,  and  two  curious  Hindoo  temples ;  one 
rising  four  stories  in  pyramidal  form,  and  a  mass  of  sculpture ; 
the  other,  lofty  and  very  similar  to  those  of  southern  India, 
except  the  crowning  brass  ornaments,  which  have  either  been 
removed  by  man  or  time.  In  some  places  I  noticed  the  wall  was 
broken  down.     M informed  me  that  after  the  battle  of 


484  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Maliarajpore,  the  fort  was  taken  from  tlie  Kajah,  and  that  he 
had  been  trying  ever  since,  to  get  it  back  again.  Some  months 
ago,  it  was  done,  and  now  his  wounded  honor  is  healed.  He  is 
constantly  in  fear  lest  some  of  his  rebellious  people  may  seize  it, 
and  get  him  in  trouble  again  with  the  English ;  and  the  broken 
wall  is  to  obviate  any  such  difficulty. 

Below,  on  the  j)lain,  I  saw  the  Lushka  (as  it  is  termed,  a  camp 
literally,  I  believe).  Here  is  the  palace,  and  his  small  army  of 
three  thousand  infantry,  and  five  or  six  regiments  of  cavalry, 
though  the  government  is  administered  by  English  officers,  of 

whom  Major  M ,  the  Kesident  is  the  head.     For  several 

years  they  were  not  allowed  a  Eesident,  who  is  in  the  light  of  an 
ambassador  and  adviser  to  the  sovereign,  as  ihej  wished  to 
humble  the  pride  of  the  Rajah  and  his  people. 

The  authority  of  the  Resident  is  supported  by  an  army  called 
the  contingent,  containing  about  eight  or  nine  thousand  men, 
who  are  officered  on  the  principle  of  the  local  corps,  viz.  a  com- 
manding officer,  usually  a  captain  or  major  from  the  Company's 
service,  with  a  second  in  command,  and  adjutant,  all  of  whom 
arc  highly  paid  ;  the  first  1000  rupees  per  month,  the  other  two, 
700  and  500.  These  appointments  are  looked  on  as  great  favors, 
and  much  sought  after, — in  fact,  a  native  (army)  officer  strives  for 
any  appointment.  It  would  seem  that  it  were  an  anxiety  to  get 
out  of  his  regiment  as  soon  as  possible,  as  if  he  thought  it  a 
stigma  to  remain  in  it.  I  suppose  the  reason  is,  that  being  out 
of  his  regiment,  and,  as  it  were,  brought  more  prominently 
before  the  authorities,  he  thus  has  a  better  chance  of  getting 
ahead  in  high  appointments. 

About  three  miles  distant  I  saw  the  Residency.  On  this  side  of 
the  fort  are  numerous  bastions,  strengthening  the  fort  where  weak, 
and  mingling  the  Divine  and  physical  law,  they  had  some  deities 

cut  out  of  the  rock.     Then  back  to  M 's.     Several  visitors 

dropped  in,  among  them,  Captain  M ,  a  very  nice  fellow. 

He  has  just  been  reading  Miss  Bremer's  "Homes  in  the  New 
World,"  and  was  very  anxious  to  know  who  many  of  the  nota- 


THE   RESIDENCY.  485 

bilities  are,  and  sent  me  the  book  to  read.  I  rode  out  and  made 
two  or  three  visits  by  myself;  on  my  return  looked  over  Miss 
Bremer's  book.  The  poor  little  woman  was  evidently  laboring 
under  dyspepsia,  when  in  most  places  in  the  United  States.  She 
was  awfully  bored  by  attentions  in  our  country ;  for  though  our 
cities  are  populous  and  our  people  travel  much,  they  are  very  far 
from  being  more  than  mere  villagers  in  the  knowledge  of  the 
world  as  regards  officious  and  curious  attention  to  strangers : 
often  much  more  from  a  desire  to  gain  notability  for  themselves, 
than  any  desire  to  afford  pleasure  to  the  guest,  and  in  spite  of 
foreigners  laughing  at  our  absurd  habit,  almost  of  sycophancy,  in 
running  after  any  foreigner  we  fancy  of  note,  our  vanity  and  noto- 
riety so  far  overcome  all  the  feelings  of  sensibility,  that  we  don't 
mind  being  laughed  at,  if  our  amour  ipropre  can  be  flattered. 

This  afternoon  M drove  me  out ;  we  stopped  to  see  the 

church,  an  exquisite  building — one  of  the  prettiest  I  have  seen 
in  India.  We  dined  at  the  mess,  and  this  evening  went  to  a 
party  at  Mrs.  A 's. 

March  10th,  Eesidexcy. — This  morning  M gave  me 

a  "  mount,"  and  we  took  a  gallop  round  the  station,  which  is 
very  prettily  situated.  I  saw  a  native  regiment  manoeuvring 
and  throwing  out  skirmishers,  which  they  did  very  skilfully. 
We  met  several  ladies  and  gentlemen  riding. 

We  stopped  at  Mrs.  M 's  for  breakfast ;  then  home,  and 

starting  off  my  things  by  Coolies  for  the  Eesidency,  I  followed 

in  a  buggy  Major  M sent  for  me.   This  afternoon  M 

and  Mrs.  M drove  down.     The  Major  took  me  to  visit 

the  Eajah,  he  (the  Major)  wishing  to  take  a  present  the  Governor 
General  had  sent  for  him.  The  Eajah  is  a  very  ordinary -looking 
person,  and  being  of  the  reigning  family,  it  pleased  the  East  India 
Company  to  put  him  on  the  throne.  The  minister  is  a  xeiy 
clever  Brahmin.  The  Eajah,  who  is  fond  of  billiards,  asked  the 
Major  to  play,  but  he  wished  me  to  relieve  him  by  taking  his 
place,  which  I  did,  and  had  the  honor  of  being  beaten. 


486  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Returning  home,  we  drove  througli  tlie  city,  whicli  has  great 
numbers  of  disgustingly  obscene  figures,  which  the  Major  is 
endeavoring  to  put  a  stop  to ;  but  it  is  a  very  delicate  business, 

as  they  form  part  of  the  native  worship.     M and  Mrs. 

M dined  with  us,  bringing   me   a  note   from   Captain 

M ,  begging  me  to  return  to  the  cantonment  next  week, 

to  spend  a  day  with  him,  and  offering  to  give  me  a  party  in  the 
evening,  if  I  would ;  but  I  had  to  decline. 

March  11th. — This  morning  I  took  a  daylight  walk ;  then  had 

a  visit  from  Major  M in  my  room,  where  he  has  been 

examining  my  sketches,  and  inquiring  my  routes.  Shortly  after, 
he  gave  me  three  letters  of  introduction  to  gentlemen  on  the 
road,  who  are  the  Residents,  or  political  agents  at  those  places. 

All  the  morning  I've  been  enjoying  the  pleasure  of  Miss 

M M 's  company,  with  music,  sketches,  etc.     Then 

tiffin.  This  afternoon  we've  been  tuning  the  piano — I  the  me- 
chanical, and  she  the  scientific, — after  which  she  played  and  sung 

for  me;   then  a  drive  with  Mrs.  M and  the  daughters. 

This  evening  a  variety  of  amusements,  music,  etc.     Among  the 

pieces.  Miss  M •  sung  "Topsey,"  from  "Uncle  Tom,"  for 

my  benefit,  and  the  first  time  I  had  heard  it. 

March  12th,  Sunday. — This  morning,  as  I  was  taking  a  day- 
light walk,  I  met  two  palanquins,  and  a  Lieutenant  F- 


and  his  wife  just  from  Agra,  and  coming  to  the  Residency.  I 
returned  just  as  the  ladies  were  starting  on  their  morning  ride. 

Then  Major  M brought  me  another  letter  to  the  political 

agent  at  Mount  Aboo — Major  A ,  and  advised  me  to  write 

to  Colonel  George  Lawrence,  to  inform  me  about  my  route,  and 
furnish  me  with  guards,  orders,  etc.,  that  might  be  necessary. 
Then  breakfast ;  and  as  the  church  was  eight  miles  distant,  it 
looked  like  rain,  and  no  chaplain  here  at  present,  the  Major 
proposed  reading  service  at  home,  and  as  in  that  case  it  always 
fell  on  Miss  M ,  she  tried  to  persuade  her  father  to  relieve 


AN  AGREEABLE   FAMILY.  487 

her  to-day,  as  there  were  three  strangers  present.  But  he 
declined  doing  more  than  the  sermon;  then  she  asked  me  to 
relieve  her ;  but  as  I  don't  go  more  than  half  the  time  to  the 
Episcopal  church,  I  forgot  the  run  of  the  service,  although  I 
can  always  follow  in  church — I  made  that  my  excuse.     Then 

she  asked  Mr.  F ;  he  said  he  was  Presbyterian ;  so  I  told 

her  I  would  have  compassion  on  her,  if  she  would  play  clerk, 
and  give  me  the  order  of  the  places  before  I  began.  As  the 
prayer-book  was  an  old  one,  newly-bound  and  fresh-looking,  I 
came  near  making  a  ludicrous  mistake ;  for  in  the  midst  of  the 
multitudinous  prayers  for  the  Royal  family,  I  came  suddenly 
upon  one  for  the  Dowager  Queen  Charlotte,  who  has  been  dead 
any  number  of  years,  the  recollection  of  which  flashed  across 
my  mind  just  in  time  to  save  me ;  but  with  my  quick  perception 
of  the  ridiculous,  it  nearly  upset  my  risibles;  however,  I  got 
through  very  creditably,  I  believe,  and  they  all  laughed  heartily 
when  I  told  them  about  it,  and  said  I  would  have  been  apprised 
of  my  mistake  by  a  peal  of  laughter. 

This  afternoon  I  am  obliged  to  return  to  Agra  again,  and 
much  regret  that  my  time  here  is  so  limited,  for  it  is  one  of  the 
most  agreeable  houses  I've  yet  visited,  and  the  young  ladies  the 
prettiest  and  most  accomplished  I've  met  in  India.  The  eldest 
of  the  two  has  only  been  married  about  a  year,  and  her  husband 
lately  ordered  on  service  in  Burmah,  where  ladies  cannot  go; 
the  younger  is  unmarried.*  From  my  letter  of  introduction,  I 
have  been  treated  almost  like  one  of  their  own  family,  they 
doing  everything  to  render  my  visit  pleasant,  and  Major  M 


*  The  day  I  reached  Bombay,  the  eldest  daughter's  husband,  who  is  on  the 

stafif,  died  of  cholera.     A  year  after,  Major  il died  from  fever,  and 

shortly  after,  Mrs.  M ;  and  in  another  year  the  second  daughter  had 

lost  her  only  child,  and  the  youngest  daughter,  vrho  Avas  married  a  few 
months  after  I  saw  her,  lost  her  fii-st  child — making  five  deaths  in  the  family 
in  two  years ;  and  during  the  mutiny,  they  were  among  those  who  were 
obhged  to  fly  to  Agra  for  safety,— luckily,  no  further  mishap  befell  any  of  them. 


488  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

giving  me  letters  to  all  the  people  in  authority  and  position  on 
the  road. 

The  young  ladies  are  among  the  many  instances  of  the  style 
of  young  ladies  generally  found  in  India  now :  as  no  child  can 
grow  up  here  without  injury  to  its  health,  it  is  sent  home  to 
England  as  early  as  possible,  and  there  educated ;  if  a  boy,  he 
returns  as  cadet,  civil  or  military;  or  if  a  daughter,  at  about 
eighteen — in  either  event,  boy  or  girl,  with  the  best  education, 
usually.  The  daughter  generally  marries  shortly  after  she 
arrives,  and  the  son  is  sent  to  his  station;  often  the  families 
don't  come  together  again  in  years.  I  supposed  it  would  break 
all  the  nicer  ties  of  affection,  but  I  am  told  by  various  families  it 
does  not.  And  in  this  manner  officers  find  as  elegant,  accom- 
plished wives  as  they  could  in  England.  I  have  met  none  more 
so  than  the  young  ladies  at  this  house. 

March  loth,  Agra.  —  My  dhooly  and  things  were  started 
off  yesterday  afternoon,  and  after  dinner,  I,  in  a  buggy,  over- 
taking them  a  few  miles  out.     I  reached  here  at  twelve  at  noon 

to-day;  M had  just  returned  from  a  drive,  and  proposed 

taking  me  to  the  Arsenal.  Here  is  Ackbar's  marble  throne, 
where  he  administered  justice,  and  beneath  is  the  marble  slab 
where  his  Vizier  sat.  The  room  is  long,  and  filled  v/ith  stands 
of  arms  and  flags  taken  in  diflerent  battles. 

At  one  end  of  the  room  stand  the  famous  gates  of  Sumnaut. 
When  the  celebrated  Mahmond  of  Ghuzne  overran  the  western 
part  of  India,  among  his  conquests  was  the  holy  Brahminical 
■city  of  Sumnaut,  celebrated  for  the  wealth  of  its  temples.  After 
the  capture,  in  the  destruction  of  the  temples,  the  priests  offered 
.an  immense  sum  of  money  to  Mahmond  to  save  their  chief  idol. 
The  stern  fanatic  paused  a  moment,  and  then  exclaiming,  "  Truth 
is  better  than  gold,"  struck  it  with  his  mace  so  powerful  a  blow 
as  to  split  it  in  pieces,  revealing  an  immense  amount  of  gold 
^nd  jewels,  far  greater  than  the  offered  ransom. 

The  gates  of  this  temple  he  removed  to  his  capital  of  Ghuzne, 


THE  TAJ  AT  AGRA.  489 

where  they  remained  until  the  end  of  the  Afghan  war,  when  they 
were  brought  from  Ghuzne  after  its  capture,  and  set  up  at 
Agra  with  a  pompous  flourish  by  Lord  Ellenborough,  which 
you  doubtless  recollect.  They  are  about  twelve  feet  high, 
made  of  sandal  wood,  mostly  composed  of  small  pieces  elabo- 
rately carved  and  inlaid,  like  the  ceilings  of  some  of  the 
rooms  in  the  Alhambra.  On  one  door  is  a  horse-shoe,  reputed 
to  have  been  nailed  there  by  the  conqueror  as  a  sign  of  con- 
quest. They  bear  evident  marks  of  great  age.  Then  home,  and 
after  dinner  to  the  Taj  for  the  last  time. 

The  building  is  situated  on  a  large  terrace  at  the  end  of  a 
handsome  garden  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  terrace  is 
several  hundred  feet  square,  and  paved  with  white  marble ;  at 
one  end  a  mosque,  at  the  other  a  building  corresponding  in 
style,  called  the  jawab  or  answer.  In  the  centre  stands  the  Taj, 
a  most  unique  and  beautiful  tribute  of  a  mouarch's  affection 
for  a  much-loved  wife,  built  by  Shah  Jehan  for  a  favorite 
wife  at  an  immense  cost.  Tavernier,  an  early  French  traveller, 
says,  20,000  men  were  engaged  on  it  for  twenty-two  years,  and 
it  cost  more  than  $15,000,000. 

The  building  is  octagonal.  From  the  centre  rises  a  lofty 
dome,  and  on  the  corners  are  smaller  domes ;  at  each  of  the 
four  corners  of  the  terrace  rises  a  beautifully  graceful  marble 
minar.  The  building  externally  and  internally,  for  a  height  of 
about  ten  or  twelve  feet,  is  beautifully  ornamented  Avith  a 
profusion  of  fine  mosaic  in  Florentine  style,  representing  flowers 
and  vines.  In  the  centre,  under  the  dome,  are  the  tombs  of 
Shah  Jehan,  and  his  wife  for  whom  that  place  was  built. 
They  are  surrounded  by  an  open-work  screen  of  white  marble 
— the  most  beautiful  of  the  many  I  have  seen  in  India.  The 
building  is  all  of  the  purest  white  marble.  The  fine  mosaics 
have  puzzled  the  curious ;  Bishop  Heber  says  they  were  done 
by  Italians  who  lived  at  Agra.  The  whole  affair  has  been  a 
theme  of  prose  and  poetic  description ;  but  as  I  deal  in  dull 
facts,    you  w^ill   perhaps   gather   as   much    from    them   as  the 


490  FEOM   WALL  STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

poetry,  for  neither  can  convey  the  least  idea  of  this  wonder- 
fally  beautiful  monument. 

Shah  Jehan  laid  the  foundations  of  a  corresponding  one  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  for  himself;  but  his  son,  Auruing- 
zebe,  following  the  hereditary  virtue  of  a  father  who  had  deposed 
and  murdered  all  his  brothers  for  a  throne,  deposed  him  like- 
wise, and  thinking  it  better  economy  to  put  him  by  the  side 
of  his  wife  in  this  tomb,  did  so. 

The  tomb  is  generally  known  as  that  of  Noor  Mahal,  "  the 
Light  of  the  Harem,"  in  Lalla  Eookh ;  but  she  was  the  wife  of 
Jehan  Ghir,  and  both  were  buried  in  a  beautiful  tomb  built  by 
Jehan  Ghir,  near  Lahore. 

Shah  Jehan  did  more  towards  decorating  Delhi  and  Agra 
than  all  of  the  other  emperors.  It  was  he  who  had  the  won- 
derful peacock  throne  made,  that  cost  £6,000,000  ;  he  also  built 
the  Jumma-Musjid  at  Delhi.  Moore,  in  his  Lalla  Eookh,  has 
mingled  the  beauty,  genius,  and  accomplishments  of  Noor  Mahal 
and  the  splendor  of  Shah  Jehan,  who  was  in  the  habit  not  only  of 
lavishing  money  here  on  elegant  buildings,  feasts,  etc.,  but  also 
in  Cashmere  which  he  visited  every  summer.  Noor  Mahal,  who 
was  the  daughter  of  an  Afghan  peasant,  by  her  wondrous 
beauty  gained  a  throne,  and  by  her  cleverness  caused  her  hus- 
band to  constantly  consult  her  during  his  life.  She  was  as  bold 
as  clever,  and  intriguing.  In  one  of  the  rebellions  she  exposed 
herself  on  an  elephant  in  the  midst  of  the  fight,  discharging 
arrows  at  the  enemy. 

Coming  home — this  evening  I  started  for  Bombay  via  Eajpoo- 
tana.  Agra  is  the  city  of  the  interior  of  India.  The  Governor 
of  the  North-west  Provinces  resides  here.  There  are  also  many 
public  buildings  and  institutions.* 

March  14^A,  Bhurtpore. — Started  last  evening,  I  in  one 
dhooly  and  my  servant  in  another — a  miniature  affair.     I  have  a 

*  During  the  insurrection  the  fort  furnished  an  asylum  to  hundreds  of 
fugitives  from  the  Sepoys — men,  AYomen,  and  children. 


Skelclieil  by  the  Aiitlior. 

PALACE  GRANt)  AUDIENCE  HALL,  DELUL 

••  Ami,  nil  1   if  tluTC  be  an  Klysiiitn,''  &.c. 


See  page  46~. 


Sketched  by  thi;  Aiitlior.  Sec  [lage  3."  9 

SIEKII  TANK    UMRITZEK.    CKNGAL. 


i 


JYPORE  EESIDENCY.  491 

troop  of  twenty-six  men,  who  are  to  take  me  as  far  as  Oodepoore, 
perhaps  Cambay,  to  march  at  the  rate  of  from  twenty-eight  to 
thirty  miles  per  day,  and  as  I  have  seen  this,  and  the  road  I  have 
traversed  before,  I  have  nothing  to  do  but  muse  on  the  plea- 
sant past. 

March  IQth,  Maunpore. — I  am  now  three  marches  on  the 
road,  and  seen  nothing  of  interest ;  low  hills,  a  flat  country,  and  an 
occasional  pariah  dog,  perhaps  a  stray  native  or  so,  frequently 
passing  a  dried-up  river.  The  people  are  all  much  alarmed, 
fearing  that  from  some  freak  of  nature  they  will  have  a  famine 
or  die  of  thirst,  as  many  of  the  wells  and  streams  are  drying 
up. 

March  17th,  Bhurunah  Bungalow. — This  morning  I  was 
awoke  by  a  tremendous  shouting,  "  Sa-aib,  Sa-aib,  Chicar,  Chi- 
car,"  so  I  started  up,  rubbed  my  eyes,  and  saw  a  herd  of  ante- 
lopes. I  got  up,  and  getting  about  three  hundred  yards  from 
them,  fired  and  missed.  Then  I  got  in  again  and  jogged  on  to 
this  place,  where  I  am  enjoying  the  usual  and  perfect  tranquil- 
lity of  these  bungalows. 

March  18th,  Jypore  Eesidency. — I  awoke  this  morning  just 
before  reaching  the  city,  the  road  to  which,  for  a  short  dis- 
tance, is  an  avenue  of  temples.  As  I  approached  the  city  I  saw 
numbers  of  horse-dealers  from  the  north,  with  their  long  matted 
locks,  dirty  faces,  and  dirtier  clothes.  Then  a  very  holy  Brah- 
min with  a  cloth  over  his  mouth  to  prevent  his  destroying  life  by 
swallo\\ang  insects. 

Two  miles  further  the  Residency.  The  appearance  is  singular, 
and  on  approaching  it  looks  like  a  fortress,  especially  on  seeing 
the  Sepoy  guard.     There  is  a  fine  large  garden  enclosed  by  the 

wall.     Colonel  E ■  was  in  the  garden,  so  I  sent  my  letter 

and  card,  and  slowly  sauntered  after.  He  gave  me  a  cordial 
welcome ;  then  showing  me  my  room,  I  made  my  toilet,  and  soon 


492  FEOM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

joined  him  and  Mrs.  R in  the  breakfast  room.     We  then 

adjourned  to  the  arbor,  where  he  enjoyed  his  cheroot,  and  I  the 
overland  "  extra."  Then  a  chat  about  America,  where  he  thinks  of 
living  after  retiring  from  India. 

Returning  to  the  parlor,  Mrs.  R joined  us,  and  then  an 

oddity,  a  Mrs.  L ,  wife  of  an  officer  now  dead.     She  was 

a  half-caste,  large,  and  fine  looking,  well  educated,  but  has  an 
erratic  brain  that  is  always  leading  her  into  queer  things.  She 
affects  "  bloomers,"  but  seems  very  ill  at  ease  in  them.  Some- 
times she  dons  the  coat,  trowsers,  beard,  moustache,  sword,  and 
dagger.  After  dinner  she  started  on  her  journey  northward,  and 
I  on  an  elephant  to  the  town.  Entering,  I  stopped  to  see  an  old 
temple  in  a  dirty  lane,  with  a  marble  throne,  on  which  was  a 
miniature  deity,  with  two  attendants,  all  of  which  were  in  white 
marble ;  on  either  side  two  galleries  with  rows  of  marble  columns 
supporting  arches,  and  a  gaudily  yet  prettily-decorated  ceiling, 

which  Colonel  R 's  servant  admired  prodigiously,  and  was 

anxious  I  should  do  the  same. 

Then  to  one  of  the  many  palaces,  a  curious  labyrinthine  mass, 
rising  six  or  seven  stories,  terminating  almost  in  a  point.  In  the 
upper  part  is  a  curious  room  and  verandah,  supported  by  low 
swelling  columns,  which  were  covered  with  a  kind  of  blue  ena- 
mel, the  ceilings  decorated  with  gilding  and  small  bits  of  con- 
vex glass,  in  every  variety  of  shape. 

From  here  is  a  fine  view  of  the  citv,  the  semicircle  of  hills 
crested  with  small  forts,  temple,  and  a  palace  or  two — the  low 
sandy  plain,  and  a  large  garden  with  fountains,  complete  the  ob- 
jects, unless  I  include  the  bazaar  now  at  its  busiest  hour,  when 
the  masses  below  in  every  imaginable  hue,  look  like  the  con- 
fused mingling  of  kaleidoscope  colors. 

The  buildings  from  here  look  much  more  massive  and  strong 
than  from  the  street,  though  the  city  is  better  built,  and  more 
regular  than  almost  any  other  city  in  India,  besides  multitudes 
of  trees  whose  foliage  adds  much  to  the  picturesque  effect.  Then 
to  another  palace,  but  with  nothing  to  see.     The  town  is  almost 


THE  VALLEY  OF  AJMERE.  493 

entirely  without  defence,  at  wliiclil  am  mucli  surprised,  supposing 
it  was  well  fortified,  as  it  is  one  of  the  independent  states.  There 
is  a  small  ruined  fort  near  by. 

The  present  Eajah  has  only  recently  ascended  the  throne,  and 

until  two  years  ago,  Colonel  K managed  all  the  affairs  of 

government.  The  Rajah  receives  about  one-third  of  the  re- 
venues ;  one-third  is  held  by  the  chiefs,  a  kind  of  feudal  barons ; 
the  rest  by  the  priests.  The  country  is  generally  poor  and  badly 
irrigated;  crops  are  very  uncertain.  On  his  one-third  of  the 
13,000  square  miles,  and  population  of  about  2,500,000,  he  ma- 
naged sometimes  to  realize  nearly  £350,000.  But  now  the  Rajah, 
under  his  own  mismanagement  and  oppression,  has  a  bankrupt 

treasury.     Colonel  and  Mrs.  R must  have  a  lonesome  time 

here,  there  being  only  one  other  European — the  Doctor,  and  he  not 
pleasant. 

March  20th,  Ajmere. — Two  days  more — nothing  yesterday 
but  a  small  and  distant  hill  fort ;  the  country  dull  and  sandy  ;  a 
Parsee  in  a  palanquin,  and  a  few  antelopes  were  the  only  living 
objects  to  vary  the  monotony.  This  morning,  at  daylight, 
passed  a  rather  large  walled  town,  now  very  dilapidated.  An 
hour  after  a  large  herd  of  antelopes  crossed  the  road ;  among  them 
some  black  bucks  ;  shortly  after,  treasure  waggons,  and  escort  of 
two  companies  of  Sepoys,  and  some  cavalry,  en  route  to  Delhi, 
with  600,000  rupees.  At  three  I  passed  through  a  gorge  of  the 
hills,  and  entered  the  valley  of  Ajmere  (I  say  valley,  it  is), 
and  a  table  land  also,  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  forms  the 
ridge  or  backbone,  as  it  were  of  India,  from  which  most  of  the 
rivers  flow  east  or  west — and  singular  to  relate,  some  of  the  rivers 
flow  up  towards  Delhi. 

The  valley  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  India,  walled  in 
on  all  sides  by  broken  ranges  of  hills.  Here  is  a  burnt  up  plain, 
while  a  few  miles  beyond,  is  the  low  valley,  burdened  with  luxu- 
riant vegetation,  for  which  thanks  may  be  given  to  Colonel  Dixon's 
good  management,  and  the  conduits  from  the  lake.     Here  an 


494:  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

occasional  pointed  roof  of  a  bungalow  may  be  seen  peering  from 
among  the  trees.  Still  further  on,  the  city  of  Ajmere,  on  the  side 
of  a  hill,  up  whose  broken  sides  are  seen  extending  the  chu- 
named  walls  of  the  town,  and  glittering  in  the  sun,  as  if  freshly 
dosed  with  a  brush  instead  of  having  borne  the  storms  of  centuries. 

High  above  the  town,  on  a  lofty  hill,  stands  the  fortress,  and 
every  lesser  hill  crested  with  a  temple  or  petty  fort.  At  four  I 
reached  Dowlut-Bagh,  Colonel  Dixon's  temporary  residence — his 
principal  one  being  at  another  place,  some  thirty-six  miles  dis- 
tant. My  men  were  regularly  fagged  out,  marching  85  miles  this 
hot  weather  in  two  days,  and  I  was  not  feeling  much  fresher 
after  a  dusting  and  fasting  of  nearly  22  hours,  and  only  protected 
form  the  sun  by  this  imaginary  shelter  of  a  dhool3^ 

By  good  luck  I  found  Colonel  Dixon  here  ;  he  is  the  commis- 
sioner and  governor,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  for  he  manages 
so  well  the  government  allows  him  to  do  whatever  he  thinks  most 
advisable.  He  is  a  very  pleasant  old  gentleman,  and  a  resident 
of  this  country  for  forty  years  without  once  leaving  it.  Eail- 
ways  and  steamers  are  only  pictures  in  his  imagination. 

After  making  myself  somewhat  comfortable,  he  proposed  a  walk 
through  the  public  gardens.  Then  from  the  top  of  a  neighbor- 
ing hill,  we  had  a  beautiful  sunset  view  of  the  lake — a  pretty 
little  sheet  of  water,  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  by  three  quarters  wide. 
Multitudes  of  ducks  and  other  waterfowl  were  enjoying  flying 
and  swimming  privileges.  Returning  home  we  enjoyed  the  even- 
ing breeze  from  the  lake  until  dinner,  and  the  refreshing  sound  of 
the  dashing  waters  against  the  foundations  of  the  house  beneath 
the  balcony  where  we  sat. 

March  21. — This  morning  at  daylight,  Colonel  D and  I 

rode  to  the  town,  visiting  the  old  Jahn  temple,  said  to  be  very 
ancient.  Parts  were  rebuilt  by  the  Mussulmaun  conquerors,  who 
have  covered  the  walls  with  quotations  from  the  Koran  in  Ara- 
bic character.  Thence  into  the  valley  between  the  high  hills 
where  the  ancient  Ajmere  stood. 


GROVES  AND  PLANTATIONS.  495 

A  nest  of  plundering  Rajahs  like  tlie  mail-clad  barons,  who  oc- 
cupied the  fortresses  on  the  Rhine  and  Danube  three  centuries 
ago.  Robbing  is  a  profession  here,  and  not  considered  disgrace- 
ful, for  might  makes  right  here  as  in  most  other  places.  The 
Rajpoots  always  allow  their  whiskers  to  grow  long,  and  brush 
and  pull  them  out  to  their  extremest  length. 

"We  then  drove  into  the  city,  and  saw  the  mosque,  which  some- 
what reminded  me  of  the  Mootee  Musjid  at  Agra,  only  not  so 
massive,   or  elegant.     Then  saw  a  fine  tank  built  by  Colonel 

J) J  during  the  famine  in  '38,  and  supplied  by  water  from 

a  never-failing  spring  in  the  hills.  Around  this  tank,  or  bowlee, 
are  nice  native  dwelling  houses,  with  verandahs  opening  on 
the  bowlee,  and  affording  a  cool  pure  air  in  the  warm  weather 
evenings.  Then  to  another  bowlee  he  has  just  finished — built  by 
subscription  among  the  natives.  To-day  a  wealthy  native  has 
subscribed  4,000  rupees  for  a  fine  colonnade  around  it.     Colonel 

D ,  by  heading  the  subscriptions  himself,  induces  the  others 

to  follow  his  example,  and  thus  adorns  their  city. 

There  is  much  wealth  here,  though  actually  very  little  busi- 
ness done,  except  through  agents  at  Delhi,  Agra,  Benares,  and 
Patna.  We  then  went  to  the  Dispensary,  and  so  on  home,  and 
to  the  top  of  the  house  for  a  fine  view  of  the  lake  and  city. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake  is  an  old  Hindoo  temple,  which 
in  the  distance,  looks  just  like  one  of  the  old  Abbey  views  so 
frequently  met  with  in  England.  Then,  after  breakfast,  we  dis- 
cussed the  probable  war  with  Russia  over  some  fresh  papers. 
The  Colonel  then  went  to  his  kutcherry,  and  I  to  write  letters  to 

Major  M ,  and  Colonel  Lawrence  for  orders,  guards,  etc., 

to  meet  me  on  the  road. 

This  afternoon  Colonel  D drove  me  out,  and  showed 

me  groves  and  avenues  of  fine  trees,  mangoes,  and  others,  that  he 
had  planted  years  ago,  the  mangoe  being  a  very  useful  tree 

to  the  native  for  its  fruit.     Colonel  D says,  during  the 

wars,  when  thousands  of  trees  were  cut  down,  the  tamarinds  all 
escaped,  owing  to  the  wood  being  too  hard  for  the  native  axes. 


496  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

He  showed  me  some  of  the  rose  plantations  he  has  induced 
the  natives  to  cultivate.  They  now  have  200  acres  of  them! 
He  is  in  hopes  of  getting  the  large  sweet  rose  that  blooms  but 
once  a  year,  to  unite  its  properties  with  that  of  the  small  cluster 
rose,  which  blooms  twice  a  year,  and  has  offered  to  give  all  the 
natives  who  make  the  experiment  successfully,  four  rupees  each. 
He  hopes,  in  this  way,  to  get  plantations  of  large  clustering 
roses,  blooming  twice  a  year,  from  which  much  ottar  can  be 
made.  He  has  also  dotted  the  country  with  small  lakes  or 
bunds,  where  the  water  has  been  collected  by  skilful  engineer- 
ing ;  and  by  irrigating  the  soil,  they  tend  much  to  increase  the 
prosperity  of  the  country  and  the  revenue.  He  told  me, 
Government  had  informed  him,  that  any  requisition  he  may 
make  on  them  for  improvements  would  be  promptly  met — a 
most  agreeable  compliment  and  satisfaction  for  a  faithful  admi- 
nistration of  the  country  for  twenty-five  years. 

Of  the  revenues  of  the  country,  a  large  portion  belong  to  the 
petty  chiefs  or  temples,  both  of  which  are  free  from  the  Govern- 
ment tax,  so  thut  the  actual  receipts  of  Government  for  the 
immediate  district  of  Ajmere,  consisting  of  2600  square  miles,  is 
only  six  lacs,  or  $300,000.  I  presume  these  statistics  will  not 
have  very  great  interest  for  you,  but  they  may  to  me  hereafter. 
Then  home.  Captain  Tishmaker  (German),  in  the  Company's 
service,  dined  with  us.  There  are  only  about  six  families  here, 
and  most  of  those  temporarily  absent. 

March  22d,  Berai  Bungalow. — Started  at  eight  last  night, 
after  a  pleasant  visit,  necessarily  hastened  by  the  necessity  of  my 
reaching  Bombay,  by  the  10th  of  April,  for  the  steamer.  I  had 
lots  of  trouble  getting  guides  on  the  road.  Passed  Nusseerabad 
Cantonment*  at  two  in  the  morning.  Kear  here  are  some  old 
Mussulmaun  tombs,  and  a  small  fort  on  the  isolated  crest  of  a  hill. 

*  This  was  another  of  the  places  where  the  mutiny  broke  out,  but  was  not 
successful. 


CHEETORE.  497 

March  2Uh,  IIumergur  Bungalow. — Mj  yesterday's  bun- 
galow was  in  a  small  town.  Last  niglit  I  had  trouble  with 
my  men  about  the  marches.  To-day  I  received  a  letter  from 
Colonel  George  Lawrence,  with  orders  for  Cheetore.  Near  the 
bungalow  is  a  pretty  little  tank. 

March  2olh,  Cheetore.  —  My  men  are  getting  worse  and 
worse,  the  basrgage  men  falling  behind,  and  the  bearers  settinsr 
me  down  to  rest  ten  times  during  the  night.  So  to-daj',  half  a 
dozen  of  them  coming  in  an  hour  behind  the  dhooly,  I  got 
them  all  in  the  close  verandah,  and  made  them  acquainted  with 
"  Uncle  Tom  "  and  the  heavy  lash  of  my  hunting-whip,  I  then 
started  on  foot  for  the  town,  about  a  mile  distant,  sending  my 
order  with  a  request  for  a  horse,  and  that  both  the  horse  and  permit 
should  be  sent  after  me.  Just  before  reaching  the  town  crossed 
a  large  stream  and  heavy  stone  bridge.     The  town  is  very  poor. 

The  fort,  somewhat  like  Gwalior,  an  isolated  hill  with  a  table- 
land on  the  summit,  with  a  long  winding  path  up  to  it.  Here 
are  some  ruins  of  old  temples,  tanks,  dilapidated  houses  and 
palaces,  with  two  very  curious  Hindoo  towers,  a  lofty  mass  of 
sculpture,  with  interior  winding  stairs  to  ascend  by.  The  whole 
is  built  of  a  fine  yellowish  sandstone.  Just  as  I  reached  the  top^ 
I  all  but  ran  my  head  into  a  large  hornets'  nest,  that  had  usurped 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  passage.  On  my  way  back  I  met 
the  Bucephalus,  a  most  particularly  curious-looking  article. 
However,  he  had  four  legs,  and  strength  to  carry  me,  which  was 
better  than  walking,  this  hot  day.  On  my  return  to  the  bunga- 
low, I  found  several  officers,  who  introduced  themselves,  and 
invited  me  to  join  their  party  for  meals,  a  visit  to  the  fort,  and 
shooting,  for  which  they  had  leave  for  several  days,  I  was 
obliged  to  decline^  in  order  to  reach  Bombay. 

March  26/A. — Last  night  I  was  much  delayed  by  not  getting 
guides.  This  morning  I  passed  several  large  fields  of  opium,  and 
am  now  sheltered  by  a  grove  of  mangoe  trees.      My  larder  is 

32 


498  FROM   "WALL    STREET   TO    CASHMERE. 

decidedly  low — nothing  but  tea,  a  can  of  preserved  oysters  "were 
my  "prog"  for  to-day. 

March  27 (Ji,  Oodeypore. — I  have  lodgings  in  a  splendid 
bungalow,  belonging  to  the  Eana,  but  without  a  single  table, 
and  only  one  chair.  I  found  a  package  of  letters,  and  instruc- 
tions from  Colonel  George  Lawrence.  I  sent  the  letter  contain- 
ing his  order  to  the  Eana's  prime  minister,  who  sent  me  a  lot  of 
tough  mutton,  and  other  things.  This  afternoon  he  called  to  see 
me ;  he  is  an  awfully  fat  old  fellow,  and  as  ugly  a  "  mug  "  as 
any  human  being  need  be  troubled  with.  All  the  time  he  was 
talking  with  me,  lie  amused  himself  playing  icith  his  toes.  He 
sent  for  a  horse,  and  also  an  elephant,  for  me,  and  gave  orders 
that  some  siwars  be  sent  to  escort  me  to  Mount  Aboo. 

I  sent  off  the  letter  of  introduction  from  Colonel  Lawrence  to 

Major  A ,  the  political  agent  at  Mount  Aboo  and  Seroie. 

After  which,  I  started  on  a  very  fat  liorse  for  the  lake,  meeting 
the  elephant  that  had  been  sent  for  me.  I  changed.  The  lake 
is  a  very  pretty  sheet  of  water,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long  by 
a  mile  wide,  and  formed  by  a  bund  or  dam.  In  it  are  three 
little  islands,  two  with  marble  pavilions  just  visible  from  the 
midst  of  the  trees.  On  every  side  are  high-peaked  hills  with 
foliage  and  herbage ;  occasionally  small  cottages  and  ruined 
fortresses,  or  bits  of  wall,  giving  it  a  most  picturesque  appearance. 

The  town  is  on  three  hills ;  the  palace  on  one,  and  reaches 
down  to  the  water's  edge.  It  is  a  huge,  baronial-looking  affair 
— all  but  the  white-wash.  Near  this,  and  adjoining  the  town 
walls,  on  a  high  hill,  is  a  walled  preserve,  with  all  kinds  of 
game,  tigers,  leopards,  deer,  etc.  On  the  islands,  with  the  pavi- 
lions, are  small  gardens  with  fountains.  The  city  is  tolerably 
well  built,  and  populous. 

The  boats  or  barges  on  the  lake  were  most  antediluvian  affairs. 
The  pavilions  are  beautiful  little  structures,  and  a  delightful 
resort  in  the  warm  weather.  There  was  a  lovely  sunset  as  I 
returned  to  the  bungalow,  giving  a  double  charm  to  the  beau- 


EXTORTIONATE   BEARERS,  499 

tifal  views  that  encircle  the  spot.  There  I  found  the  men  had 
been  deciding  not  to  go  on  with  me.  I  sent  to  the  minister  foi^ 
camels  and  men ;  he  sent  for  answer  that  it  was  too  late ;  so  I 
must  lose  another  day. 

March  2Sth. — This  morning  I  arranged  with  a  camel-man  to 
take  me,  and  to-day  I  have  been  sketching  the  city.  This  after- 
noon, just  as  I  had  got  all  ready  to  go,  the  camel-man  came  to 
tell  me  he  had  no  saddle,  and  could  not  go  within  the  time  he 
had  arranged.  So  I  controlled  my  rage,  and  merely  catching  him 
by  the  beard,  moderately  choked  him ;  after  which  I  had  a  consul- 
tation with  my  old  bearers  who  were  still  hanging  about,  when 
they  finally  consented  to  go,  on  my  paying  enormous  wages ;  and 
at  eight,  I  suppose  the  spirit  will  move  them  to  start.  A  Eajah 
called  to  see  me  and  look  at  my  rifle  and  gun, 

March  29</i,  Gagoondah, — I  finally  got  off  from  Oodeypore 
late  last  evening.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest,  and  most  pictu- 
resque of  the  Rajpoot  cities.  My  escort  was  to  protect  me  from 
the  Bheals,  a  villanous  cut-throat  set  who  inhabit  these  moun- 
tains, and  will  murder  a  man  for  his  turban,  even  less,  but  are 
such  cowards  they  rarely  attack  Europeans.  The  road  was 
horribly  bad,  and  I  have  availed  myself  of  the  shelter  of  a  tama- 
rind tree  in  the  absence  of  a  buno^alow. 


o 


March  BOth,  KiAR. — We  did  not  get  off  until  six  last  evening, 
and  then  my  men,  instead  of  taking  me  direct,  have  been  carry- 
ing me  all  over  the  country,  and  I  did  not  reach  here  until  two 
this  afternoon — twenty  hours.  I  should  say  it  required  some 
patience  to  travel  in  this  part  of  the  country — and  with  such 
brutes.  I've  got  precious  little  shelter  against  a  grilHng  sun.  I 
cannot  buy  any  provisions,  and  all  I  have  left,  is  one  egg  and 
two  coarse  corn-meal  chepatties,  tough,  bitter,  and  indigestible,  for' 
the  Khansomar  reports  that  all  the  preserved  meats  and  soups  are, 
gone,  though  I  thought  I  had  laid  in  enough  to  reach  Cambay. 


500  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

I  have  seen  great  numbers  of  Blieals  to-day,  every  man  witli  his 
bow  and  quiver  fall  of  lance-headed  arrows.  The  country 
appeal^  very  barren,  and  scarcely  cultivated  in  any  part.  The 
leaves  are  all  burnt  up  by  the  sun.  One  fiery  red  flower  is 
all  that  dare  make  its  appearance,  and  that  is  on  a  leafless  tree. 

March  3I5/,  Mt.  Aboo. — Starting  at  seven  last  night,  I  had  a 
long  walk  through  a  mountain  pass ;  the  opening  on  this  side  is 
in  the  Aracailee  mountains.  At  midnight  I  came  out  into  an 
open  plain  and  at  eight  this  morning  reached  Kuchrole,  three 
miles  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  I  found  a  note  from 

Major  A ,  with   a  Sepoy,  chair,  and  bearers.      My  old 

bearers  I  sent  on  with  the  dhoolics,  my  servant  and  heavy 
traps  to  Anadra  about  30  miles  distant  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  mountain,  to  await  my  descent. 

The  siwars  wished  hay  for  their  horses,  and  not  being  able  to 
buy  it,  I  sent  for  the  head  man  of  the  town,  and  told  him  what  I 
wanted.  He  was  as  insolent  as  the  villagers.  I  told  him  I  should 
inform  the  political  agent;  and  not  minding  that,  I  told  my  ser- 
vant to  pull  off  his  puggery ;  but  he  was  afraid,  so  I  jerked  it  off 
myself)  and  kicked  it — one  of  the  greatest  insults.  Not  succeeding 
in  getting  the  hay,  I  broke  a  stick  over  his  back  when  he  came 
to  terms,  and  sold  me  what  was  wanted.  Then  the  men  started 
for  Anadra,  and  I  for  Aboo.  The  scat  to  carry  me  on  was  a 
chair,  secured  to  two  poles,  and  my  feet  resting  on  a  loose 
rope.  I  was  borne  by  four  men  of  unequal  height,  so  had 
ups  and  downs  in  abundance.  But  the  worst  part  was  when 
I  reached  the  mountain.  On  the  way  I  passed  some  pea-foul 
and  a  fox.  The  men  luckily  climbed  up  the  mountain  with- 
out a  single  "  spill,"  though  I  had  one  narrow  escape  on  a  side 
hill,  where  one  of  my  bearers  slipped,  but  fortunately  caught 
himself  In  many  places  they  went  up  on  hands  and  knees,  and 
others,  so  much  worse,  I  had  to  get  off  and  walk,  hot  as  it  was. 

I  saw  a  very  large  mungoose,  the  cobra's  greatest  enemy.  Ai 
last  I  reached  the  to]p  of  the  hill,  a  journey  of  eight  miles  in  five 


Sketched  by  tho  Author.  See  page  489. 

INTERIOR  OF  TAJ  MAHAL  AND  TOMB,  AGRA. 


Jill!l!!mlliillllull;hl:ii:ll:!^r"!l:,  i.riM  •ii:^i,ilir  ,'■;.  i, ,  „ 


Skeldicd  by  the  Autlior. 

TlIKrEACUCK  TIIUONK,  DBXIII. 


?ec  jingc  401. 


THE   JAIN  DEWILWARA  TEMPLES.  501 

hours!  Here  are  some  old  Hindoo  temples  witli  a  brazen  bull, 
and  an  old  ruined  tank.  Then  on  for  nearly  five  miles  over  a 
very  wild  hilly  country,  but  of  fine  scenery,  passing  on  the  road 

a  lady  and  two  gentlemen  riding.      Major  A was  not  at 

home  when  I  arrived,  but  came  in  a  few  minutes  after  with  Mrs. 

A and  their  little  daughter.      They  received  me  in  the 

kindest  m-anner,  I  having  been  introduced  by  an  old  and 
esteemed  friends  of  theii-s,  I  spent  a  pleasant  evening,  and  now 
for  a  good  night's  rest — the  second  I  shall  have  enjoyed  in 
twenty  days." 

April  1st. — At  daylight  Major  A and  I  started  for  a 

walk  to  the  temples,  little  Miss  Emily  following  on  her  pony. 
They  are  the  famous  Jain  Dewilwara  temples :  they  are  enclosed 
by  a  high  wall,  which  is  surrounded  by  rocks  and  jungle.  The 
interior  of  the  temples  is  entirely  of  white  marble,  and  an 
immense  number  of  columns,  all  most  elaborately  sculptured.  I 
presume  they  are  the  most  beautiful  of  any  temples  in  India — 
certainly  of  any  I  have  seen. 

Mr.  Elphinstone,  one  of  the  late  governors  of  Bombay,  who 
was  very  learned  in  such  matters,  says  the  chief  objects  of  their 
worship  are  a  limited  number  of  saints  raised  by  their  austerities 
to  a  superiority  over  the  gods  and  called  Tirtunkeras;  of  these 
there  are  twenty-four  past,  twenty-four  present,  and  twenty-four 
for  future  ages.  The  priests  are  called  Jutes,  and  of  all  castes. 
Their  dress  is  a  large,  loose  white  mantle,  with  the  hair  and 
beard  closely  clipped.  They  carry  a  black  rod  and  brush  to 
sweep  away  animals.  The  Jain  temples  generally  are  very  large 
and  handsome,  often  fiat  roofed,  and  like  private  houses,  with 
courts  and  colonnades;  but  sometimes  surrounded  by  colossal  sta- 

*  I  mentioned  my  difficulty  with  the  head  man  at  the  village  below,  on 

Major  A's asking  me  how  I  got  along,  when  he  said  I  wonder  he  did 

not  stab  you  Avhcn  you  insulted  him  so.  I  said  in  America  we  always  had 
two  sides  to  such  sport,  and  my  revolver  was  in  my  pocket,  ready  if  neces- 
sary.    He  laughed  at  this  new  view  of  the  matter. 


^02  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

tues  of  tlic  Tirtunkcras.  These  temples  were  built  by  tbe 
Jains  eiglit  hundred  years  ago. 

After  seeing  the  temples  we  mounted  our  horses  which  had 
been  led  after  us  and  galloped  home.    In  a  few  minutes  after  our 

return,  Major  K ,  a  brother-in-law  of  Major  A ,  came 

in,  and  between  them  they  arranged  to  have  my  dak  laid  to 

Cambay;  but  I  am  fearful  Major  K 's  off-hand  way  will 

make  a  blunder,  and  give  me  as  many  again  men  as  I  want.  I 
did  intend  going  via  Baroda,  in  order  to  see  Captain  and  Mrs. 

W ,  the  first  of  my  many  kind  friends  in  India,  and  say 

good-bye  to  them,  and  again  thank  them  for  all  the  kindnesses  I 
have  received  from  them,  and  their  friends  through  the  many 
letters  they  gave  me.  But  the  numerous  delays  of  my  rascally 
Coolies  will  jDrevent  me,  and  I  shall  be  obliged  to  go  as  speedily 
as  possible  direct  to  Bombay,  or  shall  lose  the  steamer  and  be 
delayed  a  fortnight. 

After  breakfast  Major  A came  into  the  pretty  little  cot- 
tage in  the  garden  he  has  put  me  in,  to  say  the  mail  had  arrived 
and  brought  fresh  English  news,  with  rumors  of  war,  which  are 

watched  very  closely  here.     This  afternoon  Sir  E and 

Lady  S called.     He  is  political  agent  at  Jodpore.     Then 

Major  A and  I  rode  to  the  top  of  one  of  the  hills  for  a 

fine  view  of  the  places  on  the  Deesa  side  of  Mount  Aboo.     This 

evening  Dr.  E and  a  Mr.  P ,  nephew  of  Sir 

P ,  of  the  Afghan  campaign,  dined  with  us. 

To  day  Mrs.  A gave  me  a  long  account  of  the  captivity 

of  herself  and  husband  during  the  Afghan  campaign.     Major 

A was  appointed  to  the  command  of  a  regiment  of  cavalry, 

raised  by  order  of  the  English  government  to  support  their  can- 
didate for  the  throne  against  Dost  Mahommed ;  and  when  he 
went  to  take  command,  he  took  his  wife  with  him.  At  the  first 
outbreak  they  were  made  prisoners,  and  after  nine  months 
imprisonment  they  were  rescued  by  a  party  of  Hill  people  who 
were  favorable  to  the  English.  She  said  they  were  very  well 
treated  by  Mahommed  Akbar,  the  fighting  son  of  Dost  Mahom 


ANADRA   AND   DEESA.  503 

med.  She  spent  two  years  in  tliat  country,  and  her  husband 
four. 

April  2nd. — This  morning  the  Major  and  I  took  our  day- 
light ride,  visiting  the  lake — a  pretty  little  sheet  of  water 
encircled  by  a  barrier  of  hill  and  mountain.  He  showed  me 
a  very  pretty  church  they  had  just  built  by  subscription.  This 
afternoon  all  the  people  of  the  place  (about  a  dozen)  met  here, 

and  Major  A read  service.     Then  we  all  took  an  evening 

stroll. 

April  Srd,  Anadra. — This  morning  a  daylight  ride.  There 
are  no  drives  here,  a  carriage  could  not  be  brought  up,  the  hill 

is  so  steep  on  all  sides.     Then  we  went  to  Sir  R S 's 

where  we  met  two  or  three  others,  all  of  .w^hom  had  come  like 
ourselves  to  see  the  working  of  a  miniature  telegraph  of  his  own 
construction,  "We  amused  ourselves  with  a  galvanic  battery  and 
the  natives,  offering  them  rupees  if  they  would  take  them  off  the 
jar  which  we  kept  moderately  charged.  Then  home  and  break- 
fasting, after  which  I  went  out  and  sketched  the  lake.     On  my 

return  I  found  Dr.  E waiting  to  see  me  with  a  letter  to 

his  father,  who  lives  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, — a  man  of  high 
position  there.     This  afternoon,  at  four,  off  again. 

Just  as  I've  made  new  acquaintances  and  known  them  long 
enough  to  like  them,  I  am  obliged  to  leave,  until  sometimes  I 
feel  as  if  I  would  not  present  another  letter  of  introduction.  I 
reached  this  place,  which  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  in  about 
three  hours.  My  luggage  going  down  very  slowly.  Here  I 
found  all  my  new  bearers,  and  servants,  besides  an  escort  of 

siwars  provided  by  Majors  A and  K to  see  me 

safely  through  their  districts,* 

April  ^th,  Deesa,  54  miles. — Last  night  I  started  at  eight  with 
twice  the  number  of  men  I  wanted,  or  should  have  been  required 

*  This  delightful  spot  was  another  of  the  scenes  of  mutinous  attempts,  but 
with  no  serious  effects,  I  am  very  glad  to  say. 


604  FROM   WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

to  take  in  Bengal.  Major  K Lad  made  a  mistake  as  T  feared ; 

and  accordingly  tlio  men  divided  the  loads,  declaring  tlicy 
would  take  them  in  no  other  way,  and  I  liad  to  comply  as  I  had 
no  time  to  loso,  cost  what  it  might  to  take  the  men,  and  then  the 
brutes  grumbling  even  at  half-loads.  I  and  the  things  have 
been  trundled  along  at  fearful  expense  to  a  poor  traveller. 

At  six  this  morning  I  met  my  relay  of  Decsa  men  with  a  note 

from  Captain  S (Major  K 's  friend),  inviting  me  to 

etop  and  breakfast  v^-ith  him,  and  also  stay  and  dine  if  I  could 
remain  so  long,  and  hoping  I  would  find  my  Coolies  oil  right. 
I  did  not  reach  here,  even  with  all  these  men,  until  past  four 
o'clock,  and  as  the  sun  has  been  fearfully  warm,  I  have  had  an 
awful  "grill."  The  cantonment  is  large,  but  a  perfect  bed  of 
Band,  and  the  roads  quite  undrivable.  There  is  a  fine  show  of 
trees.  Captain  Shaw  was  very  polite.  I  spent  several  hours 
with  him,  part,  giving  him  information  respecting  the  United 
States,  whither  some  of  his  young  relatives  are  wending  their 
way. 

Just  as  I  started  this  afternoon,  I  found  something  had  sprung 
a  leak,  and  in  getting  out,  discovered  the  servant  in  putting  in  a 
bottle  of  water,  had  not  arranged  the  cork  properly,  and  it  had 
come  out,  and  I  was  pretty  thoroughly  soaked. 

April  bill,  Meysaxa  Buxgalo"W,  45  miles. — I  started  last 
night  at  nine,  and  had  much  trouble  with  my  men,  who  would 
linger  behind.  I  reached  this  place  at  eleven  to-day  and  they  at 
two.  The  country  now  looks  better  cultivated  and  more  popu- 
lous, but  the  roads  execrably  bad.  This  morning  I  passed  Sidh- 
poor,  a  large  town  on  a  small  river.  At  this  place  there  is  a 
large  village  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  bungalow.  The 
latter  is  new,  and  has  no  accommodations,  not  even  a  chair  or 
table;  however,  I  availed  myself  of  the  shelter  of  the  verandah. 
At  half-past  three  I  sent  my  servant  and  luggage  on,  and  I  fol- 
lowed at  five. 

April  (dill,  Ahmedabad,  61  miles. — I  reached  here  at  twelve 


AHMEDABAD.  505 

to-day,  passing  several  large  villages  and  one  town  v/itli  walls 
and  temples.  This  is  situated  on  a  small  river.  Crossing  over  I 
saw  some  pretty  Ilindoo  women  getting  water.  After  n>aching 
the  Saburmuttee  river,  I  followed  its  bends  for  balf  a  mile,  and 
then  crossed  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  cantonment.  It 
is  generally  very  low,  though  now  deep  in  spots ;  when  full,  its 
bed  is  300  to  400  yards  wide.  The  river  curves  towards  the  east 
bank  on  which  side  are  the  cantonments  and  town. 

I  stopped  at  Lieutenant  P 's  bungalow,  having  a  letter 

to  him  from  Captain  S .     I  found  him  a  very  nice  young 

fellow.      The   doctor  of  P 's   regiment  tiffined  with   us. 

P invited   me  to  stay  and   accompan}^  him  to   a  mess 

dinner,  to  which  he  was  invited,  but  I  had  to  decline.  There 
are  usually  several  regular  regiments  here,  and  one  of  irregular 
cavalry  called  the  Guzerat  Horse.  Asthecutwal  had  (luckily) 
not  laid  my  dak  to  Cambay,  I  engaged  two  Seagrams,  a  nice 
covered  vehicle  on  two  wheels  with  springs  (a  Bombay  contri- 
vance), and  arranged  to  have  relays  of  bullocks  on  the  road.  The 
cantonment  covers  considerable  ground,  though  at  present  there 
are  not  many  soldiers  here.  The  civil  lines  (quarters  of  the 
civilians)  are  four  miles  distant,  and  nearer  the  town. 

This  city  was  the  capital  of  the  several  Mahommedan  kingdoms 
that  flourished  in  India  at  the  time  the  reign  of  the  Mogul  Empe- 
rors commenced,  and  was  swallowed  up  by  Baber's  rapacious 
famil}^,  together  with  Beejapore,  Ahmednuggur,  Golconda,  and 
several  others.  There  are  many  Mahommedan  remains  and  ruins 
around  the  city,  which  is  six  or  seven  miles  in  circuit.  To-day 
I  began  to  feel  the  hot  winds,  which  have  now  commenced  to 
blow.  They  prevail  in  this  part  of  the  season  that  precedes  for 
two  months  the  munsoons,  but  with  verv  little  of  the  force  with 
which  they  are  felt  at  Benares,  Allahabad,  or  Agra. 

For  some  days  past  I  have  been  fairly  in  the  Bombay  presi- 
dency again,  as  I  found  to  my  annoyance,  when  I  paid  my 
palanquin  bearers,  for  during  the  several  days  since  I  left  Mt. 
Aboo,  it  has  been  costing  me  about  seventy  dollars  a  day. 


506  FEOM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

April  7ih,  Cambay. — I  started  last  night  at  six.    "When  I  bade 

P good-bje,  he  gave  me  a  note  to  his  father.     The  ride  to 

the  town  was  along  a  pretty  road.  I  was  tired,  and  fell  asleep 
during  the  two  hours'  travel,  and  was  awoke  by  the  seagrams  stop- 
ping. Looking  out  of  the  window  I  saw  a  man  opening  a  door  at 
the  top  of  a  flight  of  steps,  and  in  a  half  stupid  waking  mood  I 
thought  it  was  a  temple  they  were  stopping  to  see,  I  shouted  to 
go  on,  when  in  the  glimmer  of  the  light  I  saw  a  Parsee  hat,  which 
brought  me  to  a  consciousness  of  its  being  a  Parsee  "  grub  "  store, 
where  I  wanted  to  stop  for  some  preserved  provisions,  and  very 
luckily,  or  I  should  have  had  a  disagTceable  fast  before  reaching 
Surat.     The  bazaars  were  lit  up,  and  the  sight  curious. 

I  am  very  fond  of  passing  through  the  bazaars  at  night.  They 
are  a  sight  peculiarly  Indian,  and  I  always  throw  up  the  curtains  to 
see  everything,  and  much  to  the  people's  amazement — an  English- 
man shuts  up  close,  and  sacrifices  his  curiosity  to  his  dignity. 

Just  before  daylight  I  reached  Kaira,  a  moderate  sized  town, 
where  I  changed  bullocks,  and  half  a  mile  outside  at  the  junc- 
tion of  two  small  rivers,  I  came  upon  a  group  of  men  sitting  on 
the  ground  howling.  Looking  out  to  see  the  cause,  I  saw  a 
funeral  pile  just  finished,  and  a  body  half  covered  with  fuel^ 
cattle  excrement,  straw,  etc.  I  was  very  suspicious,  there  were  two 
figures,  but  I  could  not  see  distinctly.  I  asked  the  driver,  who 
said  it  was  only  the  body  of  a  man  they  were  burning,  and  I  had 
to  believe  the  wife  was  not  there,  which  they  do  not  like  to  avow 
to  Europeans,  as  there  is  a  very  severe  penalty  attached  to  those 
who  assist  in  it.  I  should  have  stopped  to  see,  but  just  then  they 
lit  the  fire,  and  as  I  was  so  soon  to  leave  the  country  I  did  not 
desire  to  cultivate  a  taste  for  an  auto-da-fe.  The  country  now  is 
very  much  more  thickly  populated,  and  with  superior  cultivation, 
hedges,  trees,  etc. 

Half  way  to  this  place,  I  changed  bullocks  and  reached  here  at 
eio-ht  this  evening.  I  sent  at  once  for  a  Parsee  who  I  was  told 
arranged  for  boats.  He  came  and  said  the  tide  was  too  low  for 
the  boat  to  start  before  to-morrow  night,  which  was  pleasant 


THE  GULF  OF  CAMBAY.  607 

news  to  a  man  in  the  haste  I  am.  As  this  is  the  season  for  send- 
ing cotton  to  market,  the  prices  are  treble  for  the  boats  if  you 
take  one  entirely  to  yourself  So  I  dismissed  him  until  to-morrow. 
To-night  I  have  a  famous  large  house,  formerly  a  factory — now 
the  government  bungalow. 

April  8th. — This  morning  the  sub-assistant  surgeon  stationed 
here  by  government,  a  Mr.  Summers,  a  well  educated  and  very 
nice  fellow,  a  "  country  born,"  has  arranged  a  boat  to  take  me  to 
Surat  where  I  will  find  a  steamer,  so  I  have  been  writing  to  Cap- 
tain and  Mrs.  W ,  and  Major  A ;  then  at  four  I  was 

carried  on  board  in  a  palanquin  or  palky,  as  they  call  them  gene- 
rally in  India.  My  journey  was  over  a  wide  expanse  of  mud 
flats,  sometimes  fording  drains  which  always  gave  me  a  fright, 
lest  I  should  be  "spilt."  The  boat  was  aground  high  and  dry, 
a  country  boat,  a  patimar  of  about  thirty  tons. 

The  cabin  was  a  very  rough  apology  for  one,  but  answered 
my  temporary  purposes.  A  lot  of  Sepoys  (deck  passengers)  and 
I,  formed  the  cargo  (live  stock).  Cambay  is  a  small  town  at  the 
head  of  the  Gulf  of  that  name,  and  important  principally  from 
being  the  depot  of  the  cotton  crop  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and 
the  port  from  which  most  of  the  ofiicers  and  their  families  em- 
bark for  Bombay,  or  land  on  their  way  up  country. 

Ajjril  9th,  GuLF  OF  Cambay. — The  boat  was  off  at  two  this 
morning,  a  light  breeze  all  day,  but  a  famous  tide ;  at  ten  we 
passed  Gogo.  There  is  nothing  to  interest  off  board  or  on 
board,  except,  perhaps,  the  curiosity  of  looking  at  the  Sepoys 
and  their  families — ugly  women,  and  bright-eyed  graceful  little 
"  ebonies" — Pauls  and  Virginias  perhaps,  and  about  as  free  from 
clothing. 

April  lOih,  Indian  Ocean.— We  anchored  at  change  of  tide 
last  night,  which  here  runs  like  a  rapid  current.  We  were  off 
again  at  two  this  morning,  and  rounded  into  the  Taptee  river. 


508  FROM   "WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

We  fortunately  met  the  steamer  coming  down,  a  nice  new  one — 
the  Mountstuart  Eljilunsione — named  after  the  most  popular  Go- 
vernor Bombay  has  ever  had.  I  found  only  two  cabin  passen- 
gers— an  officer  and  his  wife.  As  deck  passengers,  we  had  lots 
of  rich  Parsee  and  Ilindoo  bankers,  and  their  families,  returning 
from  a  wedding  at  Surat. 

The  women  and  children  were  covered  with  gold  and  jewels, 
and  their  noses  hung  with  splendid  pearls.  The  officer  and  I,  after 
valuing  some  of  the  jewelry  on  one  or  two,  joined  a  fat,  good-na- 
tured old  Parsee,  and  discussed  the  jewelry ;  he  complacently,  or 
perhaps  with  truth,  said  the  jewelry  of  the  Hindoos  was  hollow, 
but  theirs  was  solid.  The  Parsees  are  very  extravagant  and  free 
livers.  One  of  the  Parsee  women  was  exceedingly  pretty  and  fair, 
her  color  the  very  lightest  tinge  of  mulatto. 

A^oril  11,  Bombay. — I  reached  here  this  morning  at  half-past 
eight,  when  I  went  to  the  Hope  Hall  Hotel,  a  very  indifferent 
affair,  but  the  best  here.     I  have  an  awfully  hot  room.     At  the 

fort  I  found  another  letter  of  credit  from  Messrs.  B & 

Bros.,  of  London,  and  a  package  with  letters  of  introduction, 
firman,  etc.,  from  the  Sultan's  Grand  Vizier,  to  the  Pashas  of 
Bagdad,  Mosul,  etc.,  besides  the  most  friendly  letter  I've  received 

since  I've  been  in  India.     It  was  from  Major  M ,  in  his 

usual  warm-hearted  style,  and  desiring  me  to  send  any  of  my 
travelling  friends  to  him,  as  he  and  his  family  would  be  most 
happy  to  do  all  in  their  power  to  assist  them  in  their  journey, 
and   all   sorts   of  other   pleasant  things.     Of  news,  that  Miss 

M was  engaged  to  my  friend  Captain  M ,  whom  I 

left  a  sidling  lover. 

The  weather  is  horribly  hot  here,  and  cholera  jorevalent,     I 

presented  my  letter  to  Major  P ,  who  invited  me  to  take 

my  quarters  with  him,  as  my  banker  had  done  before,  but  I  de- 
clined. He  then  invited  me  to  dinner  for  Thursday,  and  said 
that  his  family  would  be  happy  to  see  me  whenever  I  could  call. 

April  12//i. — To  the  fort  to-day.     This  afternoon  writing  let- 


THE  KEACn  AT  BOMBAY.  509 

ters,    and  packing   up.      This    evening   a   drive,    and   to   Mr. 

G 's,  mj  bankers   to  dine.     lie   kept   me  until  half-past 

twelve,  in  giving  him  and  some  friends  an  account  of  my  tour. 

April  14,  Good  Fpjday. — Yesterday  I  received  a  note  from 

Major  P ,  saying  his  daughter  had  a  very  dangerous  attack 

of  cholera.  So  I've  been  to  the  fort  and  driving.  To-day  it  has 
been  very  hot;  been  to  church,  mailed  my  letters,  and  this  after- 
noon had  my  Cashmere  scarfs,  shawls,  etc.,  well  done  up  in  oil- 
cloth, and  soldered  up  in  tin  boxes. 

April  15. — I  wrote  a  congratulatory  letter  to  Major  M •, 

told  him  I  had  suspected  there  would  be  an  engagement,  and  had 

fallen  so  in  love  with  Miss  M I  had  not  been  able  to  do 

anything  since  I  left  his  house  but  think  of  her ;  and  she  was 
the  most  charming  young  lady  I  had  met  in  India.     Called  to 

see  Major  P ,  who  said  his  daughter  was  better,  and  likely 

to  recover  soon ;  but  her  attack  had  been  so  severe  her  life  was 
despaired  of,  at  one  time. 

Took  my  heavy  "traps"  on  board  the  steamer  for  Poijit  de 
Galle,  a  nice  new  ship  just  from  England,  so  has  the  recommenda- 
tion at  least  of  being  new,  though  badly  ventilated,  as  all  their  other 
steamers  used  in  these  waters  are,  and  which  seem  better  calculated 
for  a  Siberian  winter,  than  the  perpetual  summer  of  these  seas. 

I  drove  to  the  Eeach,  a  pleasant  drive  on  the  high  land,  over- 
looking the  sea,  where  the  fresh  sea  air  sets  them  up  after  the 
excessive  heat  of  the  day.  Here  congregate  the  highly  paid 
Bombay  civilians  ("awful  swells"  in  all  the  pride  and  pomp  of 
their  temporary  rank).  The  officers  and  their  families,  the  wealthy 
Parsees,  Hindoos,  and  Mussulmauns,  with  their  highly  bred  Arab 
steeds  (for  they  proverbially  drive  the  best),  often  three  in  a  bug- 
gy, and  the  syce  riding  behind  with  his  flowing  garments  stream- 
ing to  the  wind ;  or  else  they  are  in  the  greater  state  of  a  barouche, 
while  the  poorer  and  more  humble  clerks,  ship-captains,  and  tra- 
vellers, content  themselves  with  ricketty  and  hired  Seagrams,  an 


610  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE, 

apology  for  a  liorse  and  patclied  up  harness.     The  Parsee  ladies 
always  drive  in  close  carriages. 

I  was  much  amused  this  evening  by  my  servant,  to  whom  I 
had  been  giving  a  long  list  of  instructions  relative  to  the  ship  I 
am  to  send  him  back  to  Calcutta  in — a  short  voyage  of  about 
twenty-five  hundred  miles.  I  have  to  send  him  home  and 
defray  the  expenses.  Oh !  the  miseries  of  us  poor  travellers ! 
After  he  had  written  them  down  very  carefully,  like  many  others 
in  a  higher  sphere,  he  could  not  read  a  word  of  his  own  writing. 

April  16th,  Easter  Sunday,  at  Sea. — The  anniversary  of 
my  departure  from  Kew  York.  I  was  off,  on  board  the  steamer, 
early  this  morning.  The  harbor  was  looking  lovely.  I  find 
there  are  a  number  of  wealthy  Hindoos  and  Parsees  on  board, 
going  to  Calcutta  and  China.  I  counted  twenty-seveii  of  their 
friends  who  came  to  bid  them  good-bye ;  also  a  number  of 
English  passengers,  who  savor  very  strongly  of  "Bow-bells." 
There  are  no  ladies,  the  only  female  passengers  being  the  wife 
of  a  wealthy  Parsee,  and  a  fat,  dowdy  Irishwoman,  the  wife  of 
a  vulgar-looking  country-born  doctor.  She  has  a  squalling 
baby,  and  equally  obnoxious  boy,  who  discourses  sweet  music 
alternately  on  a  drum  and  tamborine,  to  the  annoyance  of  every 
one.  The  parting  of  the  man  and  wife  was  splendid !  such  a 
theatrical  swing,  hug  and  kiss,  it  was  enough  to  almost  make 
the  bachelors  wish  themselves  married  men,  though  I — should 
have  preferred  a  fairer  face  and  lips  for  my  kissing. 

As  we  steamed  out,  I  saw  numerous  iron  and  other  clippers. 
"What  a  scattering  a  Russian  frigate  would  make !  We  passed 
many  coasters,  with  their  pointed,  picturesque  sails.  It  being 
bright  and  clear,  I  have  had  the  hills  and  beautiful  views  of  the 
coast  in  sight  all  day. 

This  evening  I've  been  conversing  with  a  Parsee,  who  has 
given  me  an  account  of  their  flight  from  Persia,  after  its  conquest 
by  the  Mahommedans,  and  their  settlement  and  oppressions  in 
India,  under  the  native  rulers.     They  worship  the  sun  and  fire, 


\     \   l»-llil*«nit!;|3f^»!|:;||rl;::#^^^^^^^^ 


NARROW   ESCAPE.  511 

as  representatives  of  the  one  Supreme  Deitj.  The  sacred  fire  in 
their  temples  is  watched  by  priests,  over  whom  there  is  a  chief 
or  high  priest.  The  fire  is  never  allowed  to  go  out,  but  is 
replenished  by  the  priests  or  worshippers,  each  of  whom,  as  he 
goes  into  the  temple  to  pray,  presents  a  piece  of  sandal- wood  to 
the  priest,  who  places  it  on  the  fire.  The  priests  are  obliged  to 
pray  five  times  in  the  twenty-four  hours,  viz.  at  sunrise,  mid- 
day, three  o'clock,  sunset,  and  at  twelve  at  night.  Their  year 
commences  the  28th  of  September.  Like  every  religious  sect, 
thev  have  a  division.  That  in  this  sect,  is  about  the  commence- 
ment  of  the  year.  One  sect  say,  those  flying  from  Persia  lost  a 
month  in  their  calculations.  The  Parsees  only  allow  of  one  wife 
at  a  time.  Their  marriages  are  "usually  celebrated  while  they  are 
children.  This  man  suggests  that  we  should  inveyit  some  general 
religion,  in  which  all  could  agree ! ! ! 

April  19th. — Nothing  yesterday  or  day  before,  except  our  first 
officer  had  an  attack  of  the  cholera,  and  is  convalescent.  To-day 
I  sat  next  to  an  officer  who  has  all  one  side  of  his  forehead  bare 
of  hair  from  a  cockroach  attack  last  night.  Fine  stern  wind. 
Last  night  a  very  large  clipper  ship  crossed  our  track,  and  so 
close,  in  luffing-up  to  avoid  her,  she  carried  away  all  our  stud- 
ding-sails !  We  have  just  had  a  shower,  and  with  the  cool  air 
our  energies  are  revived,  and  Parsees  are  floating  about  again, 
luxuriating  their  beer,  and  we  enjoying  a  sight  of  their  cool, 
fresh-looking,  white  robes. 

We  Anglo-Saxons  are  amusing  ourselves  in  various  ways — 
reading,  and  a  few  around  a  ridiculous  game  of  race-horse ;  and 
the  little  Foggarties  with  the  drum,  tamborine,  and  blubbering 
accompaniments.  An  awful  large  shark  was  seen  alongside. 
The  captain  said,  the  largest  he  had  ever  seen. 

April  20. — Point  de  Galle,  Ceylon. — We  came  near  being 
ashore  on  the  rocks;  some  fellow  last  night  stupidly  laid  a 
hammer  by  the  side  of  the  compass.  We  have  had  to  have  our 
luggage  examined — quite  a  novelty  in  this  part  of  the  world. 


512  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Mr.  P (ca  Bengal  civilian  of  high  rank)  and  I,  paired  off 

to  the  hotel.  The  small-pox  is  horribly  prevalent  here  ;  every 
other  house  has  it  marked  on  the  door.  I've  just  discovered, 
my  Calcutta  servant,  not  satisfied  with  my  giving  him  more 
luggage  than  I  brought  away,  broke  open  my  trunk  and  stole 
twenty-two  sovereigns.  The  house  is  thronged  with  returning 
Australians,  who  keep  the  hall  full  of  natives  all  da}',  chafiering 
for  their  wares.  This  evening  I've  been  on  the  ramparts  with 
Mr.  P ,  discussing  Indian  affairs. 

April  2od. — To-day  church.  "We  have  had  several  excite- 
ments— three  different  sets  of  passengers  watching  for  steamers, 
and  only  two  kinds  arrived.     My  steamer  is  in  at  last. 

April  25th. — I  find  I  am  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  a  twelve  hy 
twelve  cabin  with  seven  others!!  However,  I've  been  at  sea  43 
times,  so  I'll  try  and  endure  the  misery.  Such  a  Babel  I've 
never  seen.  My  box  amused  the  passengers,  and  me  too  when 
I  thought  of  it,  as  it  is  to  go  on  in  the  steamer  to  England  and 
be  reshipped  to  America — but  in  the  usual  way  to  prevent  its 
being  landed  somewhere  else,  I  put  England  on  it,  quite  forget- 
ting what  an  odd  preface  my  own  name  made  to  it. 

April  26  and  27th,  At  Sea. — Oh,  such  a  ship!  Seven  meals 
a  day  in  the  saloon,  which  is  cabin  and  everything  else.  There 
are  over  one  hundred  sick,  hypochondriac,  or  well  people,  sixty- 
seven  children,  and  nurses  to  match.  The  seats  covered  with  jam, 
and  such  a  rout  as  these  brats  make,  we  have  every  variety  of 
queer  people,  an  archdeacon  from  Calcutta,  Bengal  pilots  in  uni- 
form. Queen's  and  Company's  officers,  a  variety  of  women,  only 
three  or  four  of  whom  I  will  honor  with  the  ajopellation  of 
ladies.* 

*  Col.  Neill,  lately  General,  the  same  who  has  distinguished  himself  so  much 
during  the  recent  mutinies,  and  died  before  LucknoAv — was  among  the  few 
delightful  people  on  board.  He  was  returning  to  England  to  recruit  his  health 
after  his  severe  and  distinguished  services  in  Burmah. 


THE   MAURITIUS.  513 

April  28th  and  29tli. — Yesterday  the  usual  monotonies ;  to-day 
a  sudden  squall  came  up,  and  as  I  witli  some  otlier  men  were 
rushing  off  the  poop  deck  to  avoid  the  rain,  my  foot  slipped  back 
on  the  brass  step,  and  I  shot  off  head  foremost  down  on  the  deck, 
just  missing  the  carronade — but  a  plunge  of  sixteen  feet  f  I  landed 
on  my  forehead  and  nose — I  saw  a  few  stars,  and  then  forgot 
everything  for  a  minute  or  two — came  to,  picked  myself  up,  when 
the  passengers  and  doctor  helped  me  down  to  his  cabin,  where  he 
patched  me  up,  and  I  look  as  I  had  been  enjoying  a  "  scrimmage." 

IfaT/  7th,  Port  St.  Louis,  Mauritius. — My  face  is  nearly 
well,  and  it  is  almost  worth  while  to  be  an  invalid  to  have  so 
much  sympathy.  Every  lady  on  board  has  been  inquiring  of  me 
daily  about  my  face,  and  in  this  way  I  have  become  acquainted 
with  all  the  nicest  in  the  ship. 

This  morning  at  daylight  we  entered  this  harbor.  It  is  a  pretty 
little  affair  formed  by  a  large  breakwater  and  a  small  island  on 
the  one  side,  and  the  mainland  on  the  other.  The  town  is 
built  in  the  hollow  or  base  of  a  mountain  range  that  rises  almost 
from  the  water's  edge, — the  highest  of  which  is  called  Pierre  de 
Botte,  from  a  Dutch  colonel  who  lost  his  life  while  descending  it. 
On  the  summit  is  an  immense  stone,  nearly  or  quite  separated 
from  the  rock  which  supports  it.  The  mountains  are  very  pictu- 
resque in  their  rough,  jagged  appearance,  and  dark  green  sides, 
down  which  I  see  small  silvery  streams  coursing,  while  over  their 
crests  dark  clouds  continually  float. 

There  are  three  forts  at  or  near  the  entrance  of  the  harbor. 
By  our  side  lies  a  44-gun  French  frigate  awaiting  orders.  Nearly 
every  one  has  hurried  on  shore.  I  shall  wait  until  to-morrow. 
Among  those  gone,  is  a  very  nice  young  Londoner,  an  inmate  of 
the  "  omnibus  "  as  we  term  our  cabin,  who  went  on  to  China  last 
summer  for  business ;  the  climate  not  agreeing  with  him  he  has 
had  to  return  home,  whither  he  is  now  bound.  lie  has  gone 
ashore  to  see  two  of  his  brothers  whom  he  has  not  seen  since  he 
was  eight  years  old  1 

33 


514  FROM  AYALL  STREET  TO  CASHMERE. 

I  see  among  the  flags  the  "  stars  and  stripes," — ever  a  welcome 
sight  to  an  American  away  from  home.     It  is  a  Boston  barque, 

belonging  to  my  friend  T ,  whom  I  left  in  Calcutta.     There 

are  numerous  ships  in  the  harbor.  They  and  others  bring  coal, 
and  take  sugar  in  return.  Forty  thousand  tons  are  annually 
exported  from  the  island. 

This  afternoon  I  went  ashore  for  a  walk,  accompanied  by  Cap- 
tain and  Mrs.  H .     He  is  a  queer  old  fellow,  and  been  all 

his  life  in  the  Queen's  service  in  various  parts  of  the  world.  We 
got  caught  in  a  shower,  and  taking  refuge  in  the  hotel,  met  most 
of  our  passengers.  Here  we  got  some  delicious  French  coffee — 
a  luxury  well  appreciated  after  the  beastly  trash  we  have  had  on 
board.  We  saw  the  Governor's  house — a  curious  affair — the  front 
forming  a  hollow  square  open  towards  the  street.  The  house 
seems  to  be  all  windows  and  piazzas. 

May  8th. — This  morning  we  saw  a  lovely  sunrise  while 
visiting  the  fish  market,  which  is  celebrated  for  the  beauty  and 
variety  of  its  fish,  as  we  found — a  most  queer,  odd-looking  set  of 
salt-water  denizens.  Then  as  being  the  sole  Frenchman  in  the 
party,  I  was  called  upon  to  order  a  nice  French  breakfast — the  only 

really  nice  one  I've  had  since  leaving  Major  A 's  at  Mount 

Aboo.  We  then  drove  to  Pampelouse,  the  graves  of  Paul  and 
Virginia  I  From  the  grave  of  the  latter,  I  got  a  rose-bud.  There 
are  two  brick  graves  here  which  are  called  those  of  Paul  and 
Virginia,  to  attract  the  sentimental  and  would-be-sentimental. 

We  drove  to  the  Botanical  Gardens,  a  beautiful  drive  of  seven 
miles  from  the  city,  where  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains 
back  of  the  town  and  of  the  harbor.  This  afternoon  the  French 
frigate  fired  a  salute  in  honor  of  the  Military  Governor  of  the 
island,  who  is  to  dine  on  board. 


And  now,  as  I  am  about  bidding  farewell  to  India,  I  will 
make  a  few  general  remarks  about  the  people  and  country  where 
I  have  spent  so  many  happy  months. 


GENER,A.L   REMARKS  ON  INDIA.  515 

I  have  spoken  earnestly  of  the  American  missionaries  in  their 
various  relations,  but  not  more  so  than  I  felt  was  due  to  them  for 
their  labors,  and  the  spirit  with  which  they  have  entered  into 
and  are  carrying  out  the  objects  of  a  most  worthy  cause,  the 
labors  and  results  of  which  I  saw  and  heard  wherever  I  wan- 
dered in  India, — labors  which,  if  they  draw  forth  the  admiration 
of  the  English  people  in  the  country,  and  their  subscriptions  too, 
in  preference  to  gi\ang  them  to  be  applied  by  their  own  country- 
people,  may  certainly  claim  the  praise,  highest  regard,  and 
pride  of  an  American  who  has  seen  many  of  the  results  of  their 
labors,  besides  having  "  eaten  of  their  salt." 

Of  the  English,  and  the  East  India  Government,  I  have  also 
spoken  warmly,   but    not   more  so    than  an  unbiassed  judg- 
ment and  candor  would  necessarily  dictate,  after  all  they  have 
done  has  been  seen,  and  with  a  knowledge  of  all  the  obstacles 
they  had  to  overcome,  as  I  have  seen,  known,  and  viewed  with 
wonder  and  amazement.     Of  the  English  in  India,  I've  enjoyed 
their  hospitalities  a  year  and  a  half  in  every  part  of  the  country 
in  my  wanderings,  which  I  have  been  repeatedly  told  were  more 
general  than  had  ever  been  made  by  any  one  man  before  in 
India.     I  was  not  limited  by  time  or  money;  many  see  parts  more 
thoroughly,    but  not   the  whole  country.     Every   Englishman 
feels  as  if  exiled  to  India,  and  is  too  anxious  to  get  out  to  travel 
when  he  gets  leave ;    and  travellers  for  pleasure,  either  spend 
their  time  in  three  or  four  places,  or  are  in  such  a  hurry,  they 
spend  only  two  or    three  months   in  hasty  travel,   and   get 
their  information  entirely  from  the  eyes  and  knowledge  of  others 
lohen  ihey  get  it  there,  or  from  books  on  their  return,  when  they 
have  had  no  opportunities  to  compare  the  accounts  with  their 
own  observations.     Or,  as  has  been  latterly  the  case  in  England, 
they  are   political  partizans  who   have   gone   out  for  political 
capital,  to  overturn  or   thwart  the  India  Company's   Govern- 
ment— among  them  several  scions  of  nobilitj'-,  whose  names  I 
could  mention,  and  who,  from  their  very  birth  and  blood,  should 
have  been  above  such  deeds.     These  constantly  associated  with 


516  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

natives  (Parsees  or  Indians),  wlio  are  naturally  discontented  with. 
any  but  their  own  iniquitous  form  of  government,  where  every 
debasing  quality,  or  crime,  is  not  only  practised,  but  considered 
creditable  and  honorable  if  successful. 

Of  the  English  people,  for  the  most  part  they  are  endeavoring 
to  improve  the  condition  of  the  country,  for  the  prosperity  of 
both  the  natives  and  country.  Justice  is  administered  faithfully 
in  their  courts ;  and  with  the  free  press  of  India,  if  there  should 
be  injustice,  or  any  misconduct  on  the  part  of  officials,  they 
are  freely  spoken  of,  and  through  them  the  matter  and  the  man 
are  brought  to  the  knowledge  of  government,  if  by  chance  it 
should  not  have  been  brought  in  any  other  way,  and  then  the 
official  would  be  dismissed.  So  that  the  officials,  even  working 
for  their  own  interests  and  necessity,  would  be  careful  of  those 
entrusted  to  them. 

There  may  be  mal-administration  of  justice,  but  this  is  very 
rare ;  and  it  is  no  real  cause  of  complaint  against  the  entire  Com- 
pany that  one  official  in  a  thousand  should  misconduct  himself; 
we  see  that  full  as  often  in  Eng-land  and  America;  and  on  the 
same  ground,  it  would  be  a  just  cause  of  complaint  against 
either  of  these  admirable  governments. 

The  charge  of  torture  is  another  of  the  absurdities  about 
which  there  is  a  great  cry.  Every  man  who  really  knows  about 
India,  must  know  it  would  be  impossible  to  employ  Europeans 
in  every  department  from  the  great  expense,  and  so  the  govern- 
ment is  obliged  to  use  natives  in  the  lower  offices,  who,  taking 
advantage  of  their  power  and  position,  and  for  their  own  ends, 
do  doubtless  inflict  torture,  but  without  the  knowledge  of  the 
English  officials — sometimes  for  extortion,  and  sometimes  to  save 
themselves  trouble,  because  the  natives  never  will  pay  willingly, 
even  when  abundantly  able,  for  they  have  never  been  accus- 
tomed to  pay  except  by  force.  If  they  had  done  so,  they  would 
have  been  obliged  to  pay  twice. 

In  all  villanies,  they  are  quite  the  equals  of  those  illustrious 
in  the  records  of  our  police  courts  for  forgeries,  counterfeiting 


SkL'tclii'il  lij'  Uie  Author. 


See  page 


I'l;i;i'AU.\II(>N    F(iU   A  SUTTEE.     BENGAL 


THE   BOARD   OF   CONTROL,  517 

the  writing,  seals,  and  old  documents,  staining  and  marking  the 
paper  with  all  the  necessary  proficiency. 

The  great  defect  of  the  government  appears  to  be  in  the  ma- 
nagement in  England,  arising  in  the  Board  of  Control,  which  was 
formed  in  178-i  by  Mr.  Pitt,  to  control  (as  its  name  implies)  the 
growing  Company.  From  a  jealous,  envious  desire  of  dabbling 
in  what  they  considered  a  chance  to  glory,  or  profit,  on  other 
people's  shoulders,  and  that  jealousy  continuing,  they  have  ma- 
naged through  the  carelessness,  or  stupidity  of  the  Board  of  Con- 
trol, and  the  various  restrictive  "  acts,"  to  get  the  Company  into 
such  a  condition,  that,  aided  by  the  information  of  the  several 
envoys  of  dirty  work  to  India,  who  have  contrived  to  get  together 
garbled  stories  of  torture.  Company's  misrule,  etc.,  that  when 
Lord  Palmerston  brought  forward  the  bill  for  taking  the  ma- 
nagement of  matters  into  their  own  hands,  it  was  stated  that  with 
his  happiness  on  all  occasions,  he  could  literally  say  nothing 
in  favor  of  the  bill ;  and  yet  the  country  had  been  so  prepared 
beforehand  by  the  prejudice  and  clamor  that  they  voted  for 
the  bill.  The  Board  were  not  to  meddle  with  the  commercial 
affairs  of  the  Company,  but  to  "  check,  superintend,  and  control 
all  acts,  operations,  and  concerns,  which  in  any  wise  related  to 
the  civil  and  military  government  of  the  territories  or  posses- 
sions of  the  United  Company  in  the  East  Indies."  Thus  the  real 
governing  power  was  the  Board  of  Control,  composed  of  men 
who  were,  for  the  most  part,  or  perhaps  entirely,  ignorant  of 
India,  and  what  was  required  for  her  interests.  Thus,  besides 
entailing  on  the  Company  an  enormous  expense  for  salaries, 
ofl&cers,  etc.,  they  have  the  appointing  and  ordering  of  all 
things, — the  Governors-General,  Governors,  and  Commanders-in- 
Chiefs  of  the  Presidencies,  and  in  the  country.  Although  there  is 
a  Court  of  Directors,  who  are  composed  mostly,  or  entirely,  of 
those  who  have  served  in  India,  they  are  qiiite  subordinate  to  tJie 
Board  of  Control,  upon  whom  should  rest  all  the  real  mismanage- 
ment of  India. 

It  was  at  their  suggestion  the  Afghan  war,  and  Scinde  con- 


518  FROM   WALL   STREET   TO    CASHMERE. 

quest  were  made ;  and  it  is  to  tliem  also,  that  the  dehays  of  the 
construction  of  railwa3's,  and  many  other  measures  for  the 
improvement  of  India,  are  attributable.  Instead  of  a  confidence 
in  the  rulers  they  appoint,  and  allowing  them  to  decide  the 
necessity  of  measures,  they  require  such  a  mass  of  correspon- 
dence, that  things  are  really  in  the  hands  of  their  official  clerks 
in  London,  who  sift  out  or  not,  as  they  choose,  the  various 
requisitions  from  the  voluminous  reports  which  are  demanded  by 
"act,"  to  be  furnished  for  the  Board  of  Control  in  England, 
monthly  or  quarterly.  This  costs  £150,000  or  $750,000,  for 
writing  and  publishing;  and  of  matter,  400  folio  volumes  of 
500  pages  each,  annually ! 

Who  could  be  supposed  to  peruse,  or  even  overlook  such  a 
mass  of  reading  matter  with  an  idea  of  knowing  anything  about  it  ? 
These  people  can  know  nothing  of  the  country,  its  resources,  its 
wants,  taxes,  administration  of  justice,  or  regulation  of  the  armies. 

The  Governor-Generals  are  for  the  most  part  good,  though 
usually  appointed  chiefly  from  political  reasons  or  influence  at 
home.  The  Commanders-in-Chief,  always  from  influence,  often 
unjustly,  and  without  competence  or  experience,  as  the  blunders 
and  disasters  in  the  first  Burmese,  Sikh,  and  other  campaigns,  will 
testify ;  and  yet  they  are  so  disguised  by  the  published  reports, 
to  keep  up  the  prestige  of  the  invincibility  of  the  Company  with 
the  natives,  that  I  have  been  repeatedly  told  by  the  officers  who 
were  engaged  in  these  campaigns  I  have  mentioned,  that  they 
could  scarcely  recognise  the  very  battles  they  had  personally 
been  engaged  in. 

These  blunders  in  the  last,  or  Punjaub  campaign,  were  the 
cause  of  Cashmere  being  sold  to  Goolaub  Singh, — a  slavery  far 
worse  than  the  much  sympathized  slavery  in  the  United  States, 
over  which  the  English  so  feelingly  lament,  for  in  Cashmere  it  is 
more  cruel,  and  it  is  a  wholesale  slavery — a  whole  nation  at  a 
blow !  which  would  have  increased  the  prosperity  of  the  people 
and  the  revenues,  and  brought  into  India  the  commerce  of  all 
central  Asia. 


THE  SEPOYS.  619 

The  Indian  troops  have  always  done  good  service,  and  fought 
well  when  well  led  on,  as  they  have  been  ;  for  British  "pluck" 
is  proverbial,  and  no  one  need  be  prouder  of  it  than  an  Ameri- 
can— for  we  are  all  of  the  same  blood,  descending  from  the 
conquerors  or  conquered  at  Hastings, — a  reputation  for  obsti- 
nate courage  well  sustained  by  their  vast  family,  who  with  the 
same  boldness  and  daring,  are  the  civilizing  pioneers  of  the 
world. 

The  Bombay  and  Madras  troops  have  perhaps  done  the  most 
fighting  of  any  in  the  three  Presidencies,  and  make  the  most 
orderly  and  effective  soldiers  from  the  way  they  are  enlisted 
from  all  classes.  They  are  probably  the  best  drilled,  especially 
those  in  the  Bombay  Presidency.  The  Bengalese  are  generally 
the  largest  men ;  the  Bombay  next,  and  the  Madras  last.  But 
it  is  the  mental  material,  and  discipline,  not  the  size  or  strength  of 
the  men,  that  is  of  the  most  use  in  battle,  and  the  Bengalese  are 
the  most  unserviceable  of  any  of  the  troops  in  the  three  Presi- 
dencies, from  their  insubordination,  and  refusal  to  perform  all  the 
necessary  duties  of  a  soldier. 

This  insubordination,  which  has  been  allowed,  and  almost  encou- 
raged, together  with  the  continued  manner  of  enlisting,  has  doubt- 
less been  the  cause  of  the  recent  horrible  mutinies,  and  the 
cartridge  that  came  just  as  the  mutinous  spirit  had  reached  a  cul- 
minating point,  served  as  a  good  cause;  and  from  the  gene- 
rally quiet  submission  of  the  natives,  it  took  the  rulers  with  an 
almost  paralyzing  surprise.  For  many  years  past  the  tone  of 
morality,  or  at  least  the  outward  show  of  it,  has  been  greater 
than  formerly,  when  very  few  of  the  officers  who  came  to 
India  were  married,  and  then  they  associated  more  with  the 
natives,  and  either  married  native  wives,  or  had  native  mis- 
tresses, and  in  that  way  heard  and  saw  more  of  the  native 
proceedings,  which  now  they  would  rarely  hear,  or  see  from  the 
slight  intercourse  that  exists  between  them.  However,  the 
mutiny  is  in  a  fair  way  to  be  soon  quelled,  and  the  English 
Government  has  assumed  the  charge.  We  shall  doubtless  see  the  won- 


520  FROM  "WALL   STEEET  TO   CASHMERE. 

derful  success  of  the  brilliant  scheme.  Sir  Charles  Napier  had  a 
difficulty  with  Lord  Dalhousie  about  the  Bengalese  troops,  and 
being  backed  up  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  who  gave  his 
decision  more  as  a  pure  judgment  on  military  authority  and 
strict  discipline,  than  with  a  liberal  view  of  the  politic  course  Sir 
Charles  Napier  felt  obliged  to  adopt  to  prevent  a  mutiny,  even  as 
long  ago  as  '49  or  '50  with  the  same  troops.  Sir  Charles  finding 
them  mutinously  disposed,  he  yielded  to  them  temjDorarily,  to 
prevent  the  mutinous  spirit  spreading,  using  his  experience  with 
these  troops,  and  the  judgment  of  an  old  campaigner. 

Lord  Dalhousie,  a  comparatively  young  man,  took  advantage 
of  this  opportunity  to  bring  himself  more  prominently  before 
the  world,  by  a  public  censure  of  the  gallant  hero  of  Scinde 
for  what  he,  an  inexperienced  man,  fifteen  hundred  miles  from  the 
spot,  deemed  a  very  had  precedent. 

In  speaking  of  the  Bengal  troops,  I  spoke  merely  of  Bengalese 
and  soldiers  from  Oude,  and  neither  of  the  Sikhs  nor  Goorkas, 
who  are  admirable  soldiers  in  every  respect — brave,  obedient, 
willing,  good  workers  and  fighters,  and  without  exception, 
I  believe,  the  most  faithful  and  reliable  troops  of  the  Company 
during  all  the  late  mutiny. 

The  Indian  Government  in  endeavoring  to  benefit  India,  have, 
by  reducing  the  taxes,  and  from  that  reduction  of  taxes,  expended 
so  much  money  in  India,  improving  it  by  canals  and  roads,  that 
they  have  almost  annually  brought  themselves  in  debt  to  England, 
although  the  income  of  the  canals  and  increased  revenue  may 
eventually  pay  off  the  debt.  The  two  Jumna  canals  have  cost 
£140,000,  or  $700,000.  They  bring  in  a  revenue  of  £45,000, 
or  $225,000 ;  and  this  country  supports  double  the  population  of 
that  not  thus  irrigated.  About  £600,000— $3,000,000— have 
been  expended  on  canals  in  the  North-west  Provinces  during 
thirty-five  years,  and  all  have  given  very  large  revenues.  The 
great  Ganges  Canal,  lately  finished  at  an  expense  of  about 
£1,300,000,  or  $6,500,000,  will  yield  a  revenue  of  £400,000,  or 
$2j0OO,<3OO,  besides  irrigating  900  miles  of  heretofore  almost  use- 


RED-TAPE   GOVERNMENT.  521 

less  land,  now  rendered  fertile  fields,  and  sustaining  a  large 
population  tliat  was  formerly  subject  to  dreadful  famines. 

In  the  Madras  Presidency  large  sums  have  also  been  spent  for 
works  of  irrigation,  and  in  rendering  the  rivers  navigable.  Irri- 
gation has  long  been  understood,  and  was  practised  in  India  as 
early  as  1350.  The  Emperor  Feroze  constructed  a  canal  200 
miles  in  length,  extending  from  the  mountains  to  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Delhi.  Centuries  after,  Ackbar  and  Shah  Jehan  fol- 
lowed his  example. 

Much  of  the  expense  of  the  Indian  Government  might  be 
decreased  by  dispensing  with  unnecessary  officers — &c.,  the  Board 
of  Control  and  its  demand  for  voluminous  reports,  the  councils 
of  Bombay  and  Madras,  and  reducing  the  Supreme  CouncO. 
at  Calcutta  to  three,  a  civil,  military,  and  law  Councillor,  and 
dispensing  with  the  Commander-in-Chief  as  a  member,  for  he 
never  attends,  but  by  this  has  his  pay  (a  perquisite)  of 
£10,000,  in  addition  to  his  other  enormous  emoluments. 

The  country  would  be  much  better  managed  if  all  the  officials 
in  India,  civil  and  military,  who  have  the  highest  commands, 
were  officers  of  the  Company  ;  they  would  then  understand  the 
country  and  the  people,  and  not  waste  their  time  in  counteracting 
the  effijct  of  their  own  blunders, 

India  should  be  governed  by  a  people  whose  experience 
grows,  and  keeps  pace  with  the  country.  India  in  this  way, 
would  increase  almost  as  fast  as  the  United  States,  if  not  fettered 
by  the  slow  red-tape  movements  of  a  people  who  know  of  no 
change  that  is  not  so  gradual,  it  is  barely  perceptible  until  a  cen- 
tury has  rolled  by.  Why ;  in  thirty  years  the  kingdoms  of  Ajmere, 
Baroda,  Ahmedabad,  Surat,  portions  of  Burmah,  the  Punjaub, 
and  Scinde  have  been  annexed — the  Punjaub  and  Scinde 
empires  in  themselves ! 

The  races  of  India  are  one  of  its  singular  features ;  and  besides 
the  diffiirent  races,  they  are  often  diversified  by  most  fanatically 
opposed  religions.  The  people  are  of  every  hue,  form,  and  faith, 
from  the  huge  Patau  or  Beloochi,  to  the  diminutive  native  of 


522  FROM  WALL   STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

Malabar,  or  the  short  but  active  Goorka.  There  are  Todawars, 
who  live  on  the  trees,  feeding  on  reptiles  and  vermin,  more  filthy 
in  their  habits,  and  as  mean  in  their  intellects,  as  the  wild  beasts 
around  them. 

The  Eajpoots,  whose  sole  business  is  war  and  plunder.  The 
learned  Bralimin,  calculating  eclipses,  and  indulging  in  huge 
astronomical  observatories.  The  swarthy  Arab,  with  the  other 
fanatic  Mahoramedans,  and  the  rigid  Parsee.  Some  of  these 
scarce  differing  from  the  English  in  complexion,  while  others 
may  vie  with  the  Ethiopian  in  blackness. 

All  these  nations  number  between  one  and  two  hundred  mil- 
lions. Nature,  by  wars,  famines,  or  diseases,  that  have  swept 
off  hundreds  of  thousands  every  few  years,  has  tended  much  to 
keep  down  the  population. 

India  has  been  the  birth-place  of  many  of  the  most  frightful 
maladies — cholera,  plague,  etc.  The  crimes  have  almost  rivalled 
diseases  in  depopulation.  Thuggery  and  infanticide — the  extent 
of  both  of  which  has  only  been  known  within  comparatively  a 
few  years,  and  now  are  almost  put  an  end  to  by  the  severe 
punishment  that  follows  discovery.  Thuggery  is  now  known  to 
have  existed  for  two  thousand  years  ;  the  lives  sacrificed  by  the 
Thugs,  in  conformity  with  their  religious  views,  may  be  estimated 
by  the  million.  Colonel  Sleeraan,  the  late  popular  and  distin- 
guished Eesident  at  Lucknow,  was  one  of  the  principal  Indian 
ofl&cials  who  have  been  so  instrumental  in  putting  this  down. 
Infanticide  (of  female  children,)  by  hundreds  of  thousands,  has 
been  going  on  for  centuries,  and  it,  with  widow-burning,  has 
nearly  ceased ;  and  the  system  of  organized  bands  of  plunderers, 
who  burn  ships  and  rob  houses,  is  nearly  destroyed. 

For  precious  stones  India  is  famous,  and  the  two  largest  dia- 
monds in  the  world  have  both  come  from  there.  Jasper,  or  blood- 
stone, agates,  and  cornelians,  abound  there.  She  is  also  famous 
for  her  dye-stuffs,  gums,  and  drugs.  Her  opium  trade  is 
immense,  and  the  revenue  from  it  alone  is  about  £4,500,000,  or 
near  $22,000,000. 


MANUFACTURES  OF   INDIA.  523 

Her  manufactures  are  now  going  to  decay,  but  they  were  once 
the  wonder  of  the  world  ;  for  it  is  supposed  that  the  Eoman  coins 
so  often  found  in  India,  and  the  mention  of  the  material  known 
as  the  Dacca  muslin,  indicate,  beyond  doubt,  that  they  were  the 
same  wonderful  tissues  that  adorned  the  noblest  of  the  Eoman 
beauties  at  the  court  of  the  Caesars.  And  even  lately,  some  of 
the  Benares'  fabrics  were  unrivalled  in  the  Great  Fair  at  London 
in  '51 ;  and  the  Cashmere  shawls  are  worn  by  the  fairest  forms 
and  beauties  in  the  world.  The  filagree  work  of  Cuttuck  equals, 
if  not  surpasses,  that  of  Genoa. 

India  was  not  behind  in  the  weapons  of  war.  The  Damask 
sword  blades  of  Googerat,  of  wootz  steely  is  superior  to  anything 
Europe  can  boast  of,  and  deemed  so  excellent  in  England,  that  they 
are  used  entirely  for  surgical  instruments.  Their  cannon  are 
the  wonder  of  all  who  have  seen  them.  The  celebrated  ones 
at  Dacca,  Moorshedabad,  Agra,  and  Beejapore,  were  of  fifteen, 
eighteen,  twenty-three,  and  thirty  inches  bore,  weighing  from 
eleven  to  forty  tons,  and  throwing  shot  from  four  hundred- 
weight to  a  ton  and  a  half. 

Their  ancient  cities  were  commensurate  with  all  else.  Beeja- 
pore contained  a  population  of  about  three  millions.  Gow,  the 
former  capital  of  Bengal,  covered  seventeen  square  miles,  with 
a  population  of  over  a  million.  Eajmahal,  once  the  city  of  a 
hundred  kings,  is  at  present  a  small  village.  Mandoo,  the  now 
deserted  capital  of  the  Patau  sovereigns  of  Malwa,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  twenty-eight  miles  in  circuit;  while  the 
dome  of  the  Mausoleum  of  Mohammed  Shah  at  Beejapore,  is  a 
third  larger  than  that  of  St.  Paul's,  London ;  and  the  Taj  Mahal 
at  Agra,  the  monument  erected  by  Shah  Jehan  to  his  wife,  is 
unrivalled  in  the  world  for  its  elegance  and  beauty. 

It  has  been  suggested  to  me  by  some  of  my  acquaintance, 
that  I  should  give  a  brief  statement  of  the  ordinary  expense  of 
travelling  in  these  various  countries.  This  of  course  varies  with 
the  style.     Travelling  in  England,  with  moderate  speed,  in  first- 


624  FROM   WALL   STREET  TO    CASHMERE. 

class  rail-carriages,  coaching,  or  occasionally  posting,  when  in 
out  of  the  way  places,  always  putting  up  at  the  best  hotels  in 
London,  with  rooms  at  Long's  and  with  meals  there,  or  at  the 
clubs,  costs  about  $9  or  $10  per  day.  This  is  an  average 
expense  for  a  gentleman  to  travel  on,  and  live  comfortably, 
with  a  reasonable  quantity  of  good  wine  for  dinner. 

On  the  continent,  the  same  can  be  done  including  the  living  in 
Paris,  or  any  other  capital  for  $6  per  day,  at  the  hotel  or  good 
lodgings,  and  dining  at  the  best  restaurants.  In  Syria  or  on  the 
Nile,  if  travelling  alone,  the  expense  would  be  about  $8  per  day, 
or  if  with  one  friend  about  $6  50,  and  two  or  three  from  $4  to  $5. 
Usually  every  one  travels  there  with  one  or  two  friends,  I  always 
did,  except  the  last  time — when  I  went  to  Palmyra.  Then  bej^'ond 
Suez,  the  steamer  charges  are  on  an  average  £5  or  $25  per  day, 
including  wines,  beers,  etc.,  and  the  expense  of  the  route  known  by 
the  distance,  as  these  vessels  never  average  (3ver  180  miles  a  day. 
In  fair  weather,  under  the  most  advantageous  circumstances 
they  reach  nine,  to  nine  and  a  half  miles  an  hour,  and  I've  had 
an  experience  of  eleven  different  steamers,  and  mostly  their  best. 

In  India,  the  expense  varies  with  the  mode  of  travel.  In  most 
of  the  Bombay  presidency,  I  travelled  on  horseback,  with  carts 
for  my  men  and  luggage,  that  I  might  make  an  average  of 
twenty-five  miles  a  day — and  at  every  place  of  interest,  stopping 
from  one  to  seven  days.  In  Madras,  you  travel  on  the  principal 
routes  in  what  are  called  bullock  gharries, — vehicles  on  four 
wheels  drawn  by  bullocks, — who  make  an  average  of  over  four 
miles  an  hour  night  and  day.  On  the  untravelled  routes,  it  is  by 
Palanquin,  or  horseback.  The  difference  of  expense  consists 
more  in  the  ground  gone  over,  as  it  does  in  every  place,  than 
in  the  mode  of  conveyance ;  for  going  over  only  twenty-five  a 
day,  would  cost  no  more  in  a  palanquin  than  on  horse,  but  then 
you  lose  the  comfort  of  your  servants. 

I  found  this  travel  in  India  could  be  well  done,  comfortably, 
and  in  a  reasonable  gentlemanly  style,  with,  when  I  took  horses 
sometimes  one,  sometimes  two,  and  always  with  from  four  to 


EXPENSES  OF  TRAVELLING.  525 

seven  men  (who  were  necessary  from  tlie  castes,  and  so  not  super- 
flaities)  besides  the  bullock  carts,  and  their  two  drivers.  I  found 
my  expenses  here,  were  about  $11  per  day,  except  in  the 
extreme  north  when  I  visited  Cashmere ;  where,  owing  to  the 
numerous  and  increased  exchanges  and  credits,  they  were  about 
ten  per  cent,  more  ;  or  for  two  or  three  days  when  hurrying  to 
Bombay,  and  by  mistake  of  a  friend's  order,  I  paid  $70  per  day. 

In  Java  and  the  "  Straits"  they  were  about  the  same,  except 
posting  in  Java,  which  costs  a  dollar  a  mile  in  whichever  direc- 
tion going  or  returning.  The  expenses  vary  much  with  the 
haste  of  travel,  and  the  luxury.  The  same  ground  may  be  gone 
over  much  more  rapidly  for  the  same  expense,  if  less  attention 
is  paid  to  the  extra  comforts. 

Another  matter  is  the  exchange.  The  farther  East,  the  greater 
the  rate  of  exchange,  and  bankers'  commissions — usually  they  are 
half  per  cent.,  sometimes  one  per  cent.,  often  in  the  East  they  are 
two  per  cent. ;  then,  as  you  go  into  the  interior  of  India,  silver 
being  the  only  currency,  you  must  buy  drafts,  hoondies  (native 
drafts),  or  take  a  credit,  which  are  an  additional  expense,  because 
you  must  draw  the  extreme  amount  you  may  use,  and  perhaps  more, 
pay  the  exchange,  and  banker's  commission,  then  the  commission 
on  the  up  country  credit,  and  a  five  or  six  per  cent,  exchange 
there.  The  exchanges  when  I  was  at  Bombay  were  10  per  cent., 
the  banker's  commission  2  per  cent,  then  my  London  banker's 
commission,  and  another  charge  for  the  letter  of  credit,  then  the 
exchange  on  New  York,  and  another  banker's  commission  there, 
besides  his  charge  for  credit  on  the  London  banker. 

The  rates  at  Singapore  and  Java  were  25  per  cent.,  and  then 
the  bankers'  commission  of  one  or  two  per  cent.,  besides  all 
the  others,  by  the  time  the  draft  was  finally  paid  by  my  agent  in 
New  York. 

In  China  still  -worse,  being  during  the  war,  the  exchange  on 
London  was  33  per  cent. !  In  all  these  cases,  I  give  my  own 
experience,  travelling  in  a  comfortable,  gentlemanly  way,  neither 
extravagant  nor  stinting  myself;  and  as  I  have  said  before,  these 


526  FROM  WALL  STREET  TO   CASHMERE. 

may  be  lessened  from  15  to  20  per  cent,  by  reducing  the  comfort, 
or  be  the  same,  if  reducing  the  comfort  and  using  more  speed — for 
if  a  man  in  England  goes  from  London  to  Liverpool,  or  Edin- 
burgh, or  Paris,  a  twelve  or  fourteen  hours'  journey — the  charges 
are  $13,  $22,  and  $26  (I  think)  but  if  he  stops  in  those  places  a 
few  days,  it  reduces  the  average  to  the  sum  named.  All  of  these 
expenses  are  purely  for  travelling,  and  those  incident  to  travel ; 
but  they  do  not  embrace  clothes,  or  other  purchases. 


THE  END. 


INDEX. 


Aaron's  Toire,  88. 
Abo  (Finland),  29. 
Aboo,  Mt.  501. 
Acre,  77. 

Affecting  sermon,  23. 
AFGHAN'S,  435. 
Agra  Mail,  150. 
Agra,  467. 
Ahmedabad,  504. 

AHilEDNUGGUR,   164. 

Ajmere,  493. 

Ajunta  Caves,  162. 

Akabaii,  85. 

Alexandria,  130. 

Allahabad,  333. 

American  enterprise,  261,  268. 

American  Ice,  145,  237,  256. 

American  Ships  and  Commerce,  252, 

317,  335. 
Ancient  Cities,  523. 
American  Printing  Presses,  238. 
American  Sailors,  246. 
Annexations,  521. 
Approach  to  Stockholm,  22, 
Appointments,  518. 
Arsenal,  233. 
Army,  207,  228,  519. 
A  "Spill,"  154. 
Ascalon,  77. 
Athens,  64. 
Avalanche,  412. 
Avalanche  of  good  luck,  199. 
Aurungabad,  160. 
Aurdngzebe,  1.59. 
Augsburg,  105. 

Baalbec,  100. 
Banca  Tin,  277. 
B.\ngalore,  218. 
Barcelona,  100. 
Barrackpore,  320. 
Basq;:e  Provinces,  102. 
Bassein,  146. 
Baths,  150. 


Bachelor  Accommodations,  230. 

Belgaum,  187. 

Begum  Somroo,  353. 

Beejapore  and  ruins,  177. 

Benares,  329. 

Benares  College,  336. 

Berlin,  106. 

Beresford,  466. 

Beauty,  417. 

Beirut,  74,  100,  122, 130. 

BllURTPORE,  476. 
Bhuddists,  236. 

"         Confessions,  335. 
Birthday,  438. 
Birds'  Nest  Soup,  257. 
Bombay,  132,  142,  508. 
Bordeaux,  102. 
Bookkeeping,  193. 
Board  of  Control,  477. 
Brahminism,  235. 
"Breeze,"  15, 
Brotiier,  Professional,  175. 
Bucephalus,  443. 
Buddhists.  Priests,  243. 
Bullock,  Convoy  of  grain,  151. 
Bungalows,  148. 
Burgos,  102. 

Cadet  Review,  34. 
Cairo,  79,  83. 
C.\diz,  101. 
Calcutta,  306. 
Cana  of  Galilee,  99. 
Cambay,  506. 
Cannon,  523. 
Cavalrj^,  173. 
Calicut,  203. 
Canals,  520. 
Canvas  back  duck,  388. 
Canton  customs,  249. 
Cashmere  travel,  367. 
Catamarans,  239. 
Cattle  trackers,  365. 
Cawxpore,  341. 


528 


INDEX. 


Cedars  of  Lebanon,  123. 
Ceylon',  512. 
Christiania,  16. 
Chamber  of  deputies,  28. 
Challenge  Clipper,  252. 
Chaxdexagore,  320. 
Charging  a  mirror,  347. 
Cheetore,  497. 
Chartres,  103. 
Chinese  shop  signs,  252. 

"       dinner,  256. 

"       muster  of  recruits,  267. 
Choke,  347. 
Cholera,  335. 
Chuxar,  334. 
Chilliaxwallah,  368. 
"Chicky,"439. 
Cockney  on  horse  flesh,  221. 
Cocoanut  uses,  241. 
"Colored  Gent,"  18. 
Columbo,  241. 
Cojijiodore  Perry,  254. 
Coxstaxtixople,  55,  110. 
copexhagex,  13. 

CORIXTH,   69. 

Cordova,  101. 
coxstaxce,  104. 
Concert  (native),  289. 
Coup  de  soleil,  211,  375. 
Cotton,  151. 

Crews  in  Australia,  272, 
Criminal  court,  275. 
Crossing  ba3-onets,  207. 
Croxstadt,  30. 
Crow  quill,  194. 
Crimes,  522. 
Crusty  Frenchman,  262. 
Custard  apples,  334. 
Currie  breakfast,  279. 
Cyprus,  74. 

Dak  travel,  321. 
Dardaxelles,  60. 
Damascus,  99,  122. 
Daxube,  109. 
Dacca  Muslin,  523. 
Dalecarlians,  23. 
Delhi,  460. 
Deesa,  503. 
Deer-stalking,  400. 
Deodars,  380. 
Devotion,  156,  202,  333. 
Dialects  of  Southern  India,  198. 
DlXAPORE,  326. 
Diplomats,  31. 
Dinner,  59tb  mess,  268. 

"     with  the  Governor,  329. 

"     with  a  Bev,  113. 

"     party  at  Col.  M 's,  229. 


.  Dinner,  speech,  225. 
Distinguished  American,  331. 
Dodge  for  a  card,  275. 
Dog-fancier,  262. 
Doing  John  Company,  226. 

DOWLATABAD  FORTRESS,  159. 

Dorian  fruit,  275. 
Dower,  366. 
Dresden,  106. 
Durbar,  337. 
Dutch  exquisites,  280. 

Early  sunrise,  17. 

East  India  Company.  205. 

Eighth  wedding,  292. 

Ejectment,  154. 

Elarish,  78. 

Elephanto  caves,  136. 

Elizavegrad,  54. 

Elsinore,  15. 

Ellora,  156. 

Eloquence,  322. 

Elphixstoxe  Point,  170. 

Energy  of  the  Company,  207. 

Enlisting  troops,  350. 

Escape  Irom  a  blunder,  233. 

Escorial,  102. 

Etiquette,  223. 

Executions  in  China,  255. 

Exciting  ride,  220. 

Exclusiveness  of  the  Cantonese,  253. 

Expensive  servant,  174. 

Expense  of  travel,  523. 

Falls  of  Trallhattan,  20. 

Fandango,  198. 

Famines,  522. 

FOagree,  523. 

Fishing,  395. 

Floating  Canton,  257. 

Flower  collection,  188. 

Forced  honors,  214. 

Fording  the  Chrishna  at  midnight,  185. 

Fort  William,  310. 

Fourth  of  July,  258. 

Gaza  "the  Strong,"  77. 
Game  at  midnight,  186,  407. 
Games,  226. 
Ganges  Canal,  455. 
Geneva,  104. 
Gentle  hint,  190. 
Geographical  ofiBcer,  285. 
Getting  back  caste,  271. 
Ghauts,  333. 
Ghazepore,  328. 
Gibson's  aflair,  283. 
GiUey,  the  courier,  17. 
GOGO,  139,  141. 


INDEX. 


529 


Goth  A  Caxal,  20. 
gottenburg,  19. 
Gibraltar,  101. 
Government  extortion,  284. 
GR.iXADA,  101. 
Grooming,  152. 
GWALIOR,  482. 
Gruntli,  3C7. 
"Gummy  Hogard,"  366. 
GussuppA  Falls,  200. 
Guide  book  to  Gussuppa,  108. 
G3-p3ies,  110. 

Havelock,  137,  3.51. 
Harris,  Mr.  266. 
Harlax,  Gexeual,  446. 
Heliopolis,  79. 
Highlander,  sentinel,  1G2. 
Hindoo  meals,  166. 
HoxAN  Teiiple,  254. 
Hongs,   250. 
HONGKONO,  246. 
HoOGLEY,  305. 
Hospitable  officer,  222. 
Hospitality,  158. 
Hot  wind,  150. 

"Humbuggy,  very  much,"  3S1 
HuRDWAR,  454,  458. 
Hussars,  15tb,  223,  226. 
HussAX  Abdul,  441. 
Hydaspes,  382. 
Hyder  All  215. 


Ice,  447. 

Immense  cannon.  ISO. 

Improvements    under 

ment,  520. 
Inquisition,  192. 
Insolence  of  the  Chinese,  260. 
Intelligible  report,  190,  206. 
Interpreters,  257. 
Iron  Mixes.  Daxamora,  26. 
Irox  "Works,  Motala,  22. 
Ismael,  110. 

Jaffa,  77. 

Jaix  Temples.  141,  501. 
Japanese  customs,  244. 
Java,  296. 
Jerusalem,  95. 
Jypore,  491. 

Karlee  Caves,  168. 
Kashmir,  385. 
Khyber  Pass,  435. 
KUling  beef.  394. 
Kin-kob,  336. 
Kreis,  2S2. 
Ktlas  Temple,  157. 


present    govern- 


Lahore,  361. 

Large  Army  on  Small  Scale,  215. 

Laodiaxa,  357. 

"  Lambing  "  the  Butler,  380. 

Ladies  in  India,  430,  488. 

Leopard,  404. 

Leipsic,  106. 

Letters  of  Introduction,   137,   145,  361, 

394. 
Lesson  in  Obedience,  169. 
LiXTZ,  108. 

Liver  Complaint,  226,  317. 
Lobau,  108. 
Loci  Kedudox,  335. 
Lotu-s,  246. 
Lucerxe.  104. 
LUCKNOW,  342. 

Malaga,  101. 

Madrid,  102. 

Maiiableshwar,  169. 

Mahommed  Shah's  Tomb.  178. 

Maharajah,  389. 

Mal-adrainistration, 

Mangores  (Bombay),  188, 

Marriage,  416. 

Mauritius,  513. 

Macao,  261. 

Mangustines,  245. 

Maharajpore,  481. 

Medical  Practice,  1G5,  405. 

Meerut,  352. 

Mercenary  Woman,  353. 

Merzapore  Merchants,  338. 

Mess  Dinners,  219. 

Methodistic  208. 

Midnight  Alarm,  179. 

Midnight  Dinner,  176. 

Mixde,  17. 

MiSSIOXS  IX  IXDIA,  239. 

MiSSiOXARiES,   57.  74,  9.3,  99,  lOU,    122. 

123,  132,  264,  319,  339,  356,  445,  472, 

515. 
Missionaries,  Press  of  Americax,  145, 

237,  341. 
Monastic  Establishments,  192. 
Mordecai's  Artillery,  238. 
MouxT  SiXAi,  84. 
Moore,  411. 
MouxT  Carmen  77. 
Moscow,  42. 

Motala  Irox  "Works,  22. 
Munchil  Race,  210. 
MuxiCH,  105. 
MURILLAS,  102. 
Musical  Lieutenant,  225. 
Mustering  Ship's  Crew,  269. 
MuTixous  Spirit,  350. 
Mysore,  213. 


34 


530 


INDEX. 


Xablous,  98. 
Xazaketii,  99. 

X  ANTES,  103. 

Nassack,  154. 

Narrow  Escape,  18G. 

Nadir  Shah,  464. 

Neill,  351,  512. 

New  Horse,  188. 

Neueemburg,  105. 

Notes  to  Settle  Treaty,  260. 

Obstinate  Bullocks,  213. 
Odessa,  54. 
Odin's  Horn,  27. 
Oodypore,  498. 
Ootacamund,  211. 
Opium,  324,  522. 
Opium  Sliips,  249. 
Orleans,  103. 
OuDE,  349. 
Outrageous  Officials,  354. 

Palaces  at  Stockholm,  24. 

Palaces  at  St.  Petersburg,  38. 

Pau,  102. 

Paris,  103. 

Palmyra,  124. 

Partizans,  206,  515. 

Parker,  Dr.,  Infirmary,  255. 

PalebOthra,  328. 

Patna,  324. 

Paul  and  Virginia,  514. 

Pegu  Poneys,  209. 

Penang,  303. 

Perpignan,  100. 

Petra,  88. 

Pesth,  108. 

Penitential  Travel,  330. 

Peshawur,  428. 

Peteruoff,  33. 

Pine  Apples,  246. 

PiRiEUS,  63. 

Pirate  Ofterings,  247. 

Plouglis,  78,  92,'  166,  171. 

Police,  207. 

POONAH,  162. 

Population,  257. 

Portuguese  Custom-liouse,  190. 

Prague,  106. 

Prayer,  416. 

Precious  Stones,  522. 

Pultowa,  53. 

Queer  Customer,  249. 
Quieting  a  Village  Bully,  184. 
Quizzical  Gaze,  356. 

Rain,  170. 
Races,  521. 


Rawul  Pindee,  426. 

Red  Sea,  84. 

Revel,  30. 

Rhodes,  73. 

Rochelle,  103. 

rochefaveur,  100. 

Rock  Temples,  148,  157,  162,  168. 

ROORKEE,  455. 

Salsette,  148. 

Sacred  Tank,  358. 

Santa  Glaus,  401. 

Saumur,  103. 

Satara,  171. 

ScuDDER,  Dr.  238. 

Segur,  168. 

Seven  Churches,  113. 

Service  in  Goa,  191. 

Seringapatam,  215. 

Services  in  India,  222. 

Seven  Pagodas,  234. 

Shawls  (Cashmere),  358.  392,  408,  414, 

415. 
Shooting,  395,  403. 
SiDON,  76. 

Sikh  Campaign,  357. 
Singapore,  299. 
Sir  Henry  Lawrence,  351. 
Sir  Charles  Napier,  463. 

SiRDANA,  353. 

Sir  Henry  Pottinger,  231. 

SlWARGEE,  172. 
Slavery,  432. 
Smyrna,  63,  73,  121. 
Snakes,  148,  197. 
Snake  no  serpent,  200. 
Solomon's  Fountain,  76. 
Speculative  Yankee,  168. 
Sports,  430,  317,  224. 
Squatting  at  EUora,  156. 
Stirrups,  291. 
Stockholm,  23. 
St.  Petersburg,  31. 
Subsoiling,  171. 
SUMNAUT,  488. 
Surat,  138. 
Surveys,  261. 
Superstition,  339,  417. 
Sutteeism,  173. 
SuTLE.i  Campaign,  363. 
Swordblades,  523. 

SWEABOURG,  30. 

Sympathetic  Commissionaire,  23. 

Tafal,  or  post,  229. 

Taj,  489. 

Telegraph,  452. 
I  Thibet,  415. 
I  Thebes  (Egypt),  81. 


i:XDEX. 


531 


TnORWALDSEN,  14. 

Thuggery,  365. 

TiEEKlUS,  99. 

Tiger-shooting,  163,  332. 

Tribute  to  E.  I.  Company,  459. 

Toledo,  102. 

ToiiB  OF  Jeiiax  Gum,  362. 

Towers  of  Silexge,  135. 

Transplanting  trees,  3G4. 

Trumbuc,  153. 

Troops,  360. 

Troy,  62. 

Travellers'  books,  515. 

Torture,  516. 

Tula,  52. 

Typing-wang,  254. 

Tyre,  76. 

Umritzer,  358. 
Umballa,  356. 
'•  Uncle  Tom,"  399,  416,  425. 
Unfortunate  passenger,  276. 
Uninvited  guest,  242. 
Unpleasant  ship,  241. 
University  (Upsal.\),  26. 
Upsala,  New,  26. 
"      Old,  26. 


Unicorn,  410. 
Useful  Sivrars,  15. 

Valencia,  101. 

Vienna,  107. 

Visit  of  Ceremony,  218. 

Volcano,  285. 

Voyage  to  Bombay,  131. 

"  Batavia,  270. 

"  Calicut,  202. 

'•  Calcutta,  304. 

"  China,  244. 

"  Wake,"  15G. 
"Watchmen,  169. 
Wag-nac,  172. 
Wanasapee,  280. 
Warm  weather,  247. 
Waterloo  Column,  279. 
Wedding  party,  183. 
Wellington's  Debut,  216. 
Women  Coolies,  196. 
Wrongs  avenged,  342. 

Yankee  Doodle,  with  variations.  21. 

Yachts,  251. 

Young  America  in  Canton,  259. 


RARE  BOOK 
COLLECTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 


Travel 

G463 

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